Part 2

They would not sleep on the bed, as they found a six shooter under the pillow, but they laid on the floor, and one kept watch while the others slept, up until midnight, when all fell asleep. The reason they kept watch was, that they feared the owner would come home and take them for robbers, and fire into them without warning. But no owner came, so in the morning they arose early and ate breakfast, and Charles says the preachers say they left some money and a note on the table, to show the owner that they were not robbers, but they longed for a fence-rider to overtake them, as they had gotten in on forbidden ground, and did not know how to get out. As there were 170,000 acres in the pasture, you see they had a hard time of it.

But before night the following day they reached camp O. K., but nearly worn out, and they said they did not expect to find Charles there, as none of them would have staid alone at that camp among the wolves, panthers, wild cats, cougars, bears, etc. But Charles said he made it all right without any trouble, but the coyote wolves kept him plenty of company with their howling. However, the preachers made up their minds that if that 14-year-old boy had remained at the camp ten miles from anybody all alone, they would each give him a dollar, which they did, though Charles says he thanked them and offered the money back; but no, they said that a boy with all that courage justly deserved the money, and they insisted on his keeping it, which he did.

They then went into conference, and delegated two to go after the rest of that big fat deer, when lo, and behold, _they_ got lost, and just barely made it into camp by night, without finding the treasure. They then called together the "court" and discussed the matter of adjournment, as most of them had to get home in time to preach the Christmas sermon at their several churches. Well, they broke camp on the morning of Dec. 22nd, and Charles started home with his wagon load of Baptist ministers.

You will remember that I have told you of our bee-wagon being enclosed with wire-cloth, and resembles a lion's cage. Well, after they got started on their way home, they concluded to play lion awhile, and one of them was a little fellow, and Charles says that the larger preachers tore his clothes nearly all off of him, and when they arrived at the hotel at Beeville, he wrapped himself up in his overcoat and went in, and they had to go out and buy some clothes for him. They wanted him to preach that night in Beeville, but he would not because they had torn his clothes off.

Charlie says that he has been out with lots of crowds, but the preachers were the liveliest set he ever saw. He says they had him promise to haul them out again a year hence, as they were coming if the Lord was willing, and when they could get as brave a boy as he was they were sure of success. Charles says they were very prompt, and paid him $1.00 per day, besides the premium for his bravery, and he will surely take them out whenever they come.

The preachers killed so many turkeys that they rotted on their hands, and they agreed to knock the first one down that mentioned turkey in a month.

JENNIE ATCHLEY.

* * * * *

=How to Draw Brood.=

It will be understood that we keep some out yards to draw brood from to keep up the nuclei in the queen-rearing yards. We injured some colonies very much by injudicious drawing of brood. If we do not wish to run the colonies down to nothing, we should mark X on the top-bars of two or three brood-frames, and do not take them when we are drawing brood. I find that two Langstroth frames in the center of the brood-nest will keep the colony up pretty well, but three are better—that leaves about three frames to draw on, when 8-frame hives are used, as the two outside combs seldom have brood, or not as much as the center ones.

The best plan to control an apiary that persists in swarming, is to draw brood from it and recruit or build nuclei with the brood. It would likely astonish any one to know how much brood can be drawn from a good queen during the season. I am satisfied that we have drawn as much as 50 frames of brood from a single colony during one season of eight to ten months, and then get some honey, and have a fine colony for winter in the colony we draw from. But if we draw at random, and take any and all the frames, we are likely to ruin the colonies.

JENNIE ATCHLEY.

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=Honey as Food and Medicine= is just the thing to help sell honey, as it shows the various ways in which honey may be used as a food and as a medicine. Try 100 copies of it, and see what good "salesmen" they are. See the third page of this number of the BEE JOURNAL for description and prices.

Color of Queens Regardless of Mating.

=Query 907.=—If you were buying Italian queens, what color would you expect them to be, regardless of how they are mated?—Iowa.

Yellow.—E. FRANCE.

Yellow, of course.—JAS. A. STONE.

The color of Italian queens.—EUGENE SECOR.

At least three-banded.—J. M. HAMBAUGH.

Any color from yellow to dark leather color.—M. MAHIN.

That depends upon what breeder you are buying from.—P. H. ELWOOD.

I should not anticipate. A leather-colored queen is satisfactory to me.—MRS. L. HARRISON.

Italians vary very much in color. It is hard to tell in a sentence, what color they should be.—EMERSON T. ABBOTT.

The imported are dark, but American skill has bred them "doubtless pure" to a very bright yellow to the tip.—J. H. LARRABEE.

I should expect them to be somewhere from light yellow to nearly black, and should prefer a dark leather color.—C. C. MILLER.

I should certainly expect them to show three well-developed yellow bands, but would prefer the dark, to the very light yellow queens.—C. H. DIBBERN.

If I "were buying Italian queens," I should _expect_ them to be the color of Italians. I prefer such as are known as "leather-colored."—A. B. MASON.

The color is not sure proof, but they should have three distinct yellow bands. They may be brown, light or dark, and still be Italians.—MRS. J. N. HEATER.

Anywhere from a light yellow to a full black, and with all sorts of shades and markings between. Queens may be bred so as to be nearly uniform in color and markings, and the same brood, with a little difference in manipulation, will produce queens several shades darker.—J. A. GREEN.

We do not care for color, if they have the yellow rings, and their workers are gentle and stay on the combs when we raise them out of the hive.—DADANT & SON.

Yellow, or a dark brown color. However, in rare instances I have seen queens as dark as black queens produce fine 3-banded Italian bees.—MRS. JENNIE ATCHLEY.

If I were buying "Italian queens," and knew nothing of their mating, I would expect the three yellow bands, with the other Italian characteristics.—H. D. CUTTING.

I would have to depend on the advertisement of the breeder, and expect what he promised; it might be light or leather-colored, three or five banded.—S. I. FREEBORN.

Anywhere from nearly black to a nearly yellow abdomen, just in accord with their being reared from an imported queen, or the mother of 5-banded bees.—G. M. DOOLITTLE.

Italian queens vary from almost coal-black to almost golden yellow, and in purchasing many I should expect to get almost all shades of color between those two extremes.—R. L. TAYLOR.

I should expect them to show a yellow abdomen all except the tip. But it is said on good authority that some of the imported Italian queens of undoubted purity are quite dark all over.—G. L. TINKER.

Pure Italian queens vary very much in color from bright yellow to dark. Imported queens generally average darker than homebred. I have had some nearly as dark as some black queens.—J. P. H. BROWN.

I should prefer a dark strain, and would expect each worker to be marked with three yellow bands. I have never found the very bright yellow bees so good as gatherers, though usually very amiable.—A. J. COOK.

Of at least three bands of golden yellow; with legs and lower part of the abdomen same color—balance, grayish black. The queen should show nearly the entire abdomen of orange yellow; though the shade varies greatly.—WILL M. BARNUM.

I would expect them to have yellow or leather-colored abdomens, except perhaps some dark color at the tip. _Stripes_ around the abdomen is a sign of black blood. But sometimes pure Italian stock will show outcroppings of black blood, and this is often seen in nearly black queens, but such "outcrops" did do it when I reared queens for sale. Remember, the Italian is a "thoroughbred," not a pure-blood race.—G. W. DEMAREE.

I should not care what the color would be. I have found very black queens give very light-colored workers, and _vice versa_. Nothing can be told in this direction from the color of the queen; the mating drone usually governs the color.—J. E. POND.

Selling Extracted Honey at Retail.

_Written for the American Bee Journal_

BY H. M. MELBEE.

My attention is called to some remarks by Dr. Miller, on page 817 of the BEE JOURNAL for Dec. 28, 1893, on the subject of selling extracted honey. Judging from what I see between the lines, I do not think the Doctor desires any instructions that would insure him 24 cents per pound, at retail, for extracted honey, nor any other price, in fact, whether remunerative or otherwise. The reason, perhaps, for this, is because the Doctor does not produce honey at all in the extracted form, but confines himself entirely to the production of comb honey.

There seems to be all through the Doctor's remarks, a vein of _ridicule_, and this may be accounted for by reason of the fact that certain parties have been, and still are, able to dispose of extracted honey, at retail, at a higher figure than the Doctor can secure for that in the comb. The Doctor says he is sure that he could do nothing of the kind himself, but that should surprise no one, nor should it discourage others from trying to do so. Not many years ago the Doctor stated publicly, if my memory is not at fault, that he could not produce first-grade comb honey under a special classification, whereas there were others who thought they could. And, judging from what was shown at the World's Fair honey exhibit last year, it was plain to see that the Doctor was right in what he thought he could not do in that direction.

Some of the imaginary talk the Doctor gives with that imaginary lady, plainly shows that he has had no experience, worth copying, in selling extracted honey. In short, he imagines a talk, which, in some respects, I have never met with in more than 20 years' experience. An agent, properly instructed, who could not have silenced that lady's remarks, would not be worth his salt to me.

I know from experience, not theory nor imagination, that any lady or gentleman competent to sell books, can be instructed to sell extracted honey in thousands of cities and villages, and at remunerative prices. But the agent must have proper instructions, and then must follow them. But I never attempt to give those instructions to any one who has no desire to know them. I have now had in my employ three agents who have always sold extracted honey at my prices, and profitably, by following my instructions. One of these agents was a lady—the other two young men.

No, Doctor, I do not live in a mountainous country, nor where the people I trade with live miles away from groceries, nor where honey-producers are unknown. The country where I live is just about as level as where the Doctor resides, and groceries are just about as convenient and numerous. I presume the people are just about as wealthy and intelligent, with possibly one or two exceptions, as those in the Doctor's neighborhood This being the case, the Doctor does not seem to understand why my customers do not find out that they can buy honey at a lower price than they pay me. Why, doctor, they do know they can buy comb honey, in wooden sections, at about the price you mention, but they have intelligence enough to know that when they pay for a section of wood and honey they do not get, on an average, to exceed 12 ounces of honey. And, with some assistance, they reason thus: If they have to pay 20, or even 18, cents for three-fourths of a pound of honey, they might as well pay my price, or 24 cents, and get 16 ounces, or a full pound.

Again: Neither Melbee nor his agents, when soliciting orders for honey, have ever yet been found guilty of carrying around with them a bee-paper of any description, for the express purpose of showing to would-be purchasers the market reports, as prepared and manipulated by commission merchants, nor do they ever intend to be guilty of doing so. On the other hand, the Doctor perhaps would not approve of such an un-business-like procedure. I presume the Doctor would carry a sample of honey in one hand, and a sample of one of those market reports in the other, and then call the special attention of his patrons to both samples. That, of course, would be just like the Doctor!

The Doctor seems to think that Melbee might be a wealthy man if he would only set a score or so of agents to work selling honey for him on his terms and at his prices. Perhaps the Doctor is right for once. On the other hand, the Doctor perhaps might have been also wealthy, if he had stuck to the music trade at a salary of—say $2,500 per year. But as he did not do so, perhaps we have a right to infer that he has become exceedingly wealthy from the sale of his honey crops.

The Doctor attempts to make it appear that the difference between 7 cents wholesale, and 24 cents retail, is all profit. A novice might think so, but a bee-keeper of Dr. Miller's experience should know better. Evidently the Doctor has had no experience as to the expense connected with the sale of extracted honey, by the plan pursued by myself and my agents, or else he desires to misrepresent the profits we obtain. I am frank to confess that we do get a good profit, but no larger than thousands of others might secure by knowing how.

To conclude: Melbee desires it to be distinctly understood that he does not follow the honey-trade simply for health and pleasure, but mainly for dollars and cents.

Honeyville, Beeland.

Positive Prevention of After-Swarming.

_Written for the American Bee Journal_

BY FRANK COVERDALE.

James Heddon, I believe, was the first to give us a practical method for the control of after-swarming; however, the method could not be absolutely depended upon to do the work, but was a grand step in the right direction. Who knows, to a certainty, just when the first queen-cell will hatch in the old hive—whether it will be 5 days or 15 days? A second swarm might issue before the old hive was ever moved to its permanent stand, and again after it had been moved, on account of the first cell hatching so late.

It was when I was busy making hay, when an occasional swarm would leave me, causing much vexation in my mind, and many hours of deep study, how I should overcome this difficulty; and it came, to my mind that a bee-escape might do the work, so I attached one to a hive, at the first opportunity. A 1½-inch hole was bored in the center of one side near the bottom edge, and a wire-screen cone fitted in the hole, and the entrance entirely closed; the newly-hived swarm was placed close by its side, with the entrance just under the above prepared cone, and every bee that left the old hive became an occupant of the new hive.

In three days an examination was made in the old hive, for I was afraid that too many bees would leave the brood, and destruction be the result. But, oh, how I was delighted! All was lovely still. In three days more another examination was made, with like results, and still another three days later, making nine days. Then I began boring holes in other hives, and treating them as above, with the same results, until all (60 colonies) that swarmed were in the same condition.

Some of the old hives were moved to their new stands in 12, others in 13, 14 and 16 days, the last being rather too long a time—14 days is about right in my location. Then these old colonies can be given a ripe queen-cell, or a queen, or the entrance be opened and left so until all the young bees are hatched, when the entrance can be again closed, and it will unite with the new swarm, and the combs will be empty. In fact, you may have full control of the matter, as to managing against second swarms.

The first two years I used the bored holes, covering them over when through, with a piece of section tacked over them; but since then an escape has been used at the entrance; however, at times the latter would get clogged, causing some annoyance, and I now think the bored hole at the side is best.

If the reader will carefully look over the back numbers of the BEE JOURNAL, it will be seen that I have touched upon this point before, but dare not recommend it as being entirely practicable. But I hesitate no longer, but advise all who stand in need, to try and be convinced how this plan lessens labor, cost and vexation of after-swarms; and in my location greatly increases a crop of comb honey, and of finer quality than it otherwise would have been.

Fear not that the new swarms will be overcrowded in numbers, and swarm again, but furnish each new hive with starters below and full sheets of comb foundation in all the sections above, and you will soon begin to wonder whether it is best to "prevent swarming" or not. It is nice to have wood-zinc queen-excluders, then all can be arranged at the time of hiving—such as moving the partly-finished sections from the parent colony immediately to the newly-hived swarm, and not have to wait two or three days for the queen to establish her brood-nest below.

Welton, Iowa.

Making Sugar Syrup for Feeding Bees.

_Written for the American Bee Journal_

BY G. M. DOOLITTLE.

The following has come to hand from some one who forgot to sign his or her name, so I will answer through the BEE JOURNAL, as requested.

"Will you tell us through the columns of the AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL just how you make sugar syrup for feeding bees, as I have some bees which will need feeding before long? I think you have given this before, but I cannot find where it is. If I remember rightly, you use honey to a certain extent, and, if so, is there no danger of getting foul brood, where one may have to buy honey for this purpose?"

In answering the above, it may be well, and interesting to the reader, to know just how I came to hit on the formula for sugar syrup, which I have given several times before in the different bee-papers, as hinted at by our correspondent.

Some years ago, after a poor season, I found that all of my queen-rearing colonies would have to be fed, as well as some of the others, so I set about looking up recipes for making the feed, as I had no surplus combs of honey. I found plenty of recipes telling how to make it, using vinegar, cream-of-tartar and tartaric acid in greater or less quantities to keep the syrup from candying or crystallizing. When about concluding to use one of these, I ran across one that said all that was necessary to do was to pour boiling water on the granulated sugar, stirring both together as long as the water would dissolve any more sugar. As this seemed so simple I concluded to use this.

Having the syrup made and the feeders in the hive, I proceeded to feed, all going well the first feed. When I came to feed the second night, I found the feed skimmed over with a crust of sugar which had formed on the surface during the 24 hours it had been standing. I also found that it had granulated on the bottom and sides of the can, and upon going to the hives I found a little on the bottom and sides of the feeders. However, I persisted in feeding it, as the one giving the plan said nothing was needed to keep the syrup from crystallizing, as the bees put acid enough into it in manipulating to keep it a liquid.

After a few days, I noticed bees out at the entrance of the hive of each colony fed, having little grains of sugar on their wings and bodies, trying to fly, but most of them had so much on them that they could only hop around, making a purring sound with their wings. I next looked inside of the hive, when I found that fully one-fifth of the bees had more or less of these sugar crystals on them, while the inside of the feeders was all covered with crystals. Upon looking into the cells containing the syrup, I found that in many of them crystallization had commenced to such an extent that the crystals were easily seen. I said this would not answer, so when the next batch of syrup was made, I put vinegar in the water before stirring in the sugar. While the vinegar helped about the crystals, it also gave a taste to the syrup which I did not like, so in the next I tried cream of tartar, and then tartaric acid; but in spite of them all, the syrup would crystallize some, unless I added so much that a disagreeable taste was given the syrup.

It now came to me, how in early years I had used, owing to scarcity of honey at our house, honey and sugar mixed, on the table, in which case neither the honey nor sugar granulated, so the next batch of syrup was made as follows:

Fifteen pounds of water was put into a large tin dish and brought to a boil, when 30 pounds of granulated sugar was poured in and stirred for a moment till it had mostly dissolved, when it was left over the fire till it boiled again. Upon taking from the fire, five pounds of honey was poured in, and the whole stirred enough to mix thoroughly. I found in this a syrup of about the consistency of honey, which remained a liquid from day to day—a syrup that any bee-keeper could easily make, and one which would not crystallize on the bees, feeders or in the cells. I have kept this syrup standing in an open dish for months at a time without its crystallizing or souring.

It has now been some 10 or 12 years since the experiments above given were tried, and during all that time I have never found how I could improve on this food for feeding bees for winter stores. For spring feeding, I would use 25 pounds of water to the same amount of sugar and honey, as this gives better results in brood-rearing than does the thicker syrup.

As to there being any danger, should it so happen that honey from a foul-broody colony was used, I would say that there need be no fears, for if the honey is stirred in as above given, it will all be scalded, and the scalding of honey anything else having the germs of foul brood about or in it, effectually kills these germs. However, care should be used in handling honey which may have come from a foul-broody hive, as the least bit of it carelessly left where the bees can get it, while in its raw state, will carry with it the seeds of foul brood, just as surely as corn grows from seed corn.

There is one other item I wish to notice before closing, and that is where our correspondent hints at its being necessary to feed his bees before long. If, as I suspect, the correspondent lives in the North, he should have fed the bees in October what they needed to carry them through the winter. This is a duty he not only owes to himself, but to the bees also, for, while bees often do come through the winter when fed during cold weather, yet the chances are that a loss of colonies will not only waste the bees, but the syrup fed as well.

Borodino, N. Y.

Bees in the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

_Written for the American Bee Journal_

BY S. L. WATKINS.