The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe

You have never been in Trogen. You have never heard of Trogen. You do not know where on the map to look for Trogen, and you probably would not find it, if you looked for Trogen.

IT is now nigh upon a thousand years since King Otto ordered the tomb of Charlemagne to be opened. The floor of the cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle was broken up, the sacred mausol...

WE are coming down to Denmark. Down from Norway and along the coast of Sweden. First through the Skagerack and then the Cattegat, in the steamer EXCELLENT TOLL, by name, with tw...

When I was a boy of nine, I read in Cæsar’s Commentaries, “Extremum oppidum Allobrogum, proximumque Helvetiorum finibus est Geneva,” and rendered it into English, “the farthest...

WE were in Russia, at Warsaw. At that point in the journey we were put through a searching process, and the result having satisfied the officials that we were not of the dangero...

Ignorant of the state of civilization in the ancient city of Toledo, the capital of Gothic Spain, the glory of the Jews and the Moors when they lived luxuriously on its airy hei...

UP in this part of the world you must be very careful to look out for yourself, in all matters that require _certainty_ as to times and ways of travel. It was hard to learn when...

The day was bright as we left the harbor of Abo, and struck out into the sea among the Aland Isles. The wind was strong, but not enough to disturb the weaker brethren who are ea...

WHEN Napoleon, as conqueror of Spain, entered the royal palace of Madrid (it was in 1808, his brother Joseph, the new-made king of Spain, being at his side), the great captain p...

WE went on board the canal steamer very early in the morning, and found the deck covered with passengers taking their coffee as comfortably as if they were at home. This was not...

IF it were required of me to name the pleasantest day’s ride thus far of this summer’s tour in Switzerland, I should give the palm for beauty to the day that took me with two fr...

A GERMAN watering-place, with its nauseous springs, its inviting groves and garden and shady walks and rustic seats and bowers, its conversation house, and sweet, clean beds and...

It was the first time that such a question had been put to me in Spain. I had heard it proposed to a lady, some days before, but generally no one pretends to _ask_ the privilege...

BY the beautiful island of Drottningholm, on which the king’s mother resides in a palace within a park, that seems the abode of peace and plenty, and along the shores of other i...

WHEN the followers of Berber, the Moorish chieftain, some of whom came from the regions of Damascus and the valley of the Jordan, first entered the plain that lies in front of G...

AT nine in the morning we were to be on board the steamer WYBORG, Captain Nystrom, to go from St. Petersburg to Finland, and thence to Sweden. When we reached the wharf, so grea...

MORE than a thousand years ago, a holy hermit, by the name of Meinrad, of royal blood, sought the wilds of Finsterswald, and here (for I am now on the spot) lived in a hut, and...

DON MIGUEL DE MANARA, a Spanish rake, one of many like the Don Juan who stands as type of his race, having spent his life in the way rakes love to live, undertook to be religiou...

A COUPLE of English commercial travellers arrived to-day and were very conversable at dinner. No class of men one meets abroad are more free to impart what they know, than these...

NOT until reaching Seville does one feel what a luxury it is to live,—just to breathe,—to inhale the delicious air and rejoice in _being_. Other climates had been cold, or damp,...

NOTHING purely Spanish comes in sight till we get to Burgos. This old city is half-way from the frontier to Madrid, and is just so slow, sleepy, and sluggish a town as one shoul...

BLASICHO, or, in good English, poor Blas, was an honest worker in leather, a mender of soles, in the city of Granada. There are streets in this queer old town wholly given up to...

I HAD always supposed the WINTER Palace of the Emperor was an edifice prepared with some special reference to the climate of this northern country. It is called the Winter Palac...

ON the banks of the Danube, but just _where_ the story does not say, and _when_ it is quite uncertain, lived three brothers, whose names were Lekh, Teckh, and Russ. They were of...

AT the close of a delightful day’s sail along the coast of Finland, we reached the harbor of Helsingfors. The distant sight of the city is imposing, and one’s admiration is doub...

WE are going across the kingdom, from Stockholm to Gottenburg. We might be carried through by rail in a day; but what should we see of life in Sweden if we went flying over it i...

A VALET-DE-PLACE who was leading us to church on Sunday morning in Madrid, spoke very fair English, and I asked him where he had learned it. He said, “At the missionary’s school...

THE wind blowing from the north-west,—that is, a land breeze, at Malaga, excites the nervous system so much, that in courts of law it is held to be an extenuating circumstance i...

IF you are weary reading of royal palaces, you will be sorry to be invited to the one more gorgeously adorned and illustrated than any other which you and I have entered in comp...

WE were to leave Warsaw in the course of the forenoon. At half-past eight we came downstairs, and found the breakfast-room closed, and nobody up in the house who could provide t...

AWAY down in the south-west corner of France, on the Bay of Biscay, was a hamlet on a rock-bound coast, which has of late years suddenly sprung into the notice of the world. The...

WHEN we came down this evening from the Generaliffe, we found a curious group in the vestibule of the inn where we were lodged, and a picture of troubadour and gypsy life in Spa...

WE were alone in the holiest of all the holy places in the empire of Russia: a church and a sepulchre; the place where the emperors crown themselves and the primates of the chur...

WITH faces at last fairly turned towards Russia, we stopped to rest for a day at the old town of Frankfort—the _Ford of the Franks_. Towards evening I wandered out to an old gra...

M. BILLOT is a Swiss landlord, who keeps a good hotel in Moscow. He has a charming wife and family around him, a well-trained corps of servants, and makes his house a home for A...

MY roughest railroad ride in Europe was from St. Petersburg to Moscow. It did not improve the road to be told, as I was, that it was built by American engineers; but it did jolt...

A NEW, but old world, a sudden vision of the ORIENT, rose on the sight, when we reached the city of CORDOVA. Never did I enter a city that filled me with a deeper sense of the t...

IN the grounds of the Alhambra, the ancient palace of the Moorish kings of Granada, what time those conquerors of Spain here held their right regal court, I have come to sit dow...

Progress.—Hotel Lino.—The wicked Flea.—Easy Manners.—Breakfast.—Model Landlord and Waiters.—Toledo Butter.—City set on a Hill.—Monuments of departed Peoples.—Romance.—Architectu...

The Paradise of the West.—Rivers of Eden.—New Damascus.—Granada.—Origin of the Name.—Fruits.—Mountains.—Skies.—Moorish Empire broken.—Zawi Ibu Zeyri.—Alhambra.—Meaning of the Na...

An ill Wind that blows no Good.—Curious Excuse for Crime.—Old World like the New.—Resort for Invalids.—Genial Clime.—Range of Thermometer.— Mineral Waters.—Sunshine.—Rainfall.—H...

Delicious Climate.—Customs.—Exile of the Moors.—Consequent Decay.—The Alcazar.—Barbaric Splendor.—A Christian Kingdom.—Cathedral.—A House of God.—Giant Columns.—High Mass.—Uncon...

Napoleon’s Epigram.—Royal Palace.—Cavalry.—Military Parade.—Plains of Castile.—Armory.—Swords of Gonzalo de Cordova, Ferdinand, and Charles V.—Armor of Boabdil.—Revolvers.—Might...

La Caridad.—Art Treasures.—St. John.—Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.— Moses striking the Rock.—Recovery of Pictures at Waterloo.—French Thieves.—Venus de Medici.—Thoughtful Am...

A sleepy Town.—Origin of the Name.—Fusion of the Crowns of Leon and Castile.—The Coffer of the Cid.—Swindling a Jew.—Moorish Lies.— Hotels.—A Change of Base.—The Cathedral.—Stat...

Geneva.—Color of the Rhone.—Cæsar’s Wall.—Cathedral.—Calvin.—Lady Jane Grey.—Rousseau.—Voltaire.—Madame de Stael.—Byron.—Jura.—Mont Blanc.— Celebrities.—Coppet.—Ninon.—St. Prota...

Smoking.—Cigarettes at Dinner.—Taking Sanctuary.—Retort.—Tobacco Culture.—Cuban Monopoly.—Chewing tabooed.—Early Smoking.—Children and Ladies.—Tobacco Factory.—Cigareras.—Flavor...

Cleanliness.—Paved Streets.—Bridge over the Guadalquiver.—Age of the City.—Wholesale Butchery.—Government.—Mosques.—Baths.—Inns.—Schools.— Library.—Rural Fête.—Departed Glory.—P...

Skager-rack and Cattegat.—Magnificent Sunset.—Elsinore.—Toll.—House of Tycho Brahe.—Kronborg.—Treaty of Vienna.—Danish Giant.— Fortifications.—Hamlet’s Grave.—True History.—Roya...

Tomb of Charlemagne.—The Dead Emperor.—Cathedral.—Consecration.—Holy Shrine.—Healing Waters.—Palace.—Holy Relics.—Remarkable List.— Septennial Exhibition.—Sultan of Turkey.—Crow...

Biarritz.—Chateau Eugenie.—Dangerous Coast.—Breakwater.—The Virgin’s Partiality.—Bathing Grounds.—Couriers.—Antanazio.—His Honesty and Zeal.—Crossing the Boundary.—Island of Con...

Embarkation.—Breakfast.—Skager-rack and Cattegat.—Freidericksvern.— Christiania.—Hotel du Nord.—Flowers and Fountains.—Stove.—Norwegian Breakfast.—Museum.—Superstition.—Duel of...

A German Watering-place.—Land of Salt.—Salt Works.—Last of the Barons.— Homburg.—Kursaal.—Palace.—Gaming.—Kreusnach.—Spas.—Salt Springs.— Cure-house.—Kissingen.—Baths.—Cures.—Lo...

Pleasant Ride.—Interlaken.—Lakes Thun and Brienz.—Abendberg.—Faulhorn.— Giesback.—Illumination.—Ascent of the Brunig.—Vale of Meyringen.—Falls of Reichenbach.—Lungern.—Splendid...

Trogen.—Convent.—Memento mori.—Scenery.—Religion.—German Service.— Curious Custom.—Constance.—Martyrs.—Dividing Line.—Remarkable Change.— Cause.—Pillory.—Evening Bell.—Watchman’...

The poor Cobbler of Granada.—Spanish Rule of Living.—Xantippe.—Search for Gold.—Messenger Dove.—Dreams.—Landslip.—Fever cured.—Conversion.— The Watch Tower.—Magic Bell.—Parapand...

Searching Process.—Peculiar Costumes.—Rough Streets.—Russian Bath.— Dinner.—Model Guide.—Elegant Diction.—Peter the Great.—Catharine I.— Striking Contrasts.—Accommodating Weathe...

Troubadour and Gypsy Life.—Dwarf.—Horse.—Fair.—Physique of the gitanos.— Habits.—Habitations.—Moral Principle.—Chastity.—Swindling.— Superstition.—Fortune-tellers.—Credulity.—Tr...

Commercial Travellers.—Sparrow Hills.—Church of the Saviour.—Simonoff Monastery.—Novo-Devichi Convent.—The Moskva.—A Holiday.—Napoleon’s March.—Borodino.—Evacuation of Moscow.—F...

On the Gota Canal again.—Working-girl.—Lake Asplagen.—Swedish Professor.—Lake Roxen.—Berg.—The Vetra-Kloster.—Graveyard.—Tombs of the Douglases.—School-house.—Dinner on the Cana...

The Hermit Meinrad.—His Black Virgin.—Murder.—Detective Ravens.— Monastery.—Miracle.—Shrine.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—A Barefooted Penitent.— Village Church.—Fountain.—Gallery.—Abbot....

Historic Legend.—The Jesuits.—Partition.—Last Insurrection.—Nationality crushed out.—Attempted Insurrection.—Defeat.—Warsaw.—Armed Despotism.— Discontent.—Precarious Prosperity....

Winter Palace.—Ways of Royalty.—Crown Jewels.—Orloff Diamond.— Hermitage.—Art Galleries.—Curious Code of Laws.—Royal Museum.—Peter’s Walking-stick.—Art Culture.—Condition of the...

Harbor of Abo.—Swedish Customs.—Eating and Drinking.—Climate.—The Baltic.—Stockholm.—Porters.—Hotel Rydburg.—Pleasant Quarters.— Scandinavia.—Odin.—Sagas.—Christianity.—Lutheran...

Drottningholm.—Lake Malar.—Sigtuna.—Odin.—Superstition.—Pirates.—Rural Life.—Professor Olivecrona.—Islands.—Chateau.—Commercial Life.— Manuscripts.—University of Upsala.—Codex A...

Pretentious Hotel.—Splendid Bridge.—Polite Ticket-seller.—Cars.— Prairie.—Wretched Peasantry.—Jews.—Railroad Employes.—Lapy.—Mother and Son.—Bialystok.—Grodno.—Diet of Poland.—L...

A Swiss Landlord.—Fleas.—Shrines.—Palaces, Cottages, and Churches.—The Moskva.—Circular City.—Kremlin Walls.—Gates.—Chief Entrance.—Picture of the Redeemer.—Respect.—Cannon.—Mir...

Americans.—Cronstadt.—Fortifications.—Vessels.—Smoking.—Wyborg.— Saw-mills.—Channel.—Ruined Tower.—Submission of Finland.—Religion.— Government.—Harvests.—Famines.—Army.—Wages.—...

Lodgings at the Alhambra.—Restoration.—Webs of Falsehood.—The Sierra Nevada Mountains.—Fruits.—Progress of the Peasantry.—The Moors.—Adam’s Visit to Spain.—Expulsion of the Moor...

A polyglot Valet.—Missionary Schools.—Foreign Chaplains.—The Church _Militant_.—Upper Chamber.—Religious Intolerance.—Inquisition.— Persecution.—Spanish Sabbath.—Devotion.—Infid...

American Engineers.—Sleeping Arrangements.—Newspapers.—Drama.—Courtesy.— Lubanskaia.—Dinner.—Villages.—The Volga.—Murdered Bishop.—Sleeping Car.—Ladder.—Russian Jargon.—Pathetic...

Helsingfors.—Sweaborg.—Fortified Islands.—Society House.—Ducal Palace.— Finnish Gentlemen.—Senate House.—University.—Observatory.—Library.— Literature.—Kalewala.—Schiller and Sh...

Graveyard.—Childish Plays.—Cheerful Graves.—Grave of Goethe’s Mother.— Inscription.—Lovely Sentiment.—Coffin of Goethe.—Wealthy Jew.— Humiliation.—Ancient Glory.—Ariadne.—Elegan...

Royal Palace.—Empress’s Drawing-room.—Empress’s Cabinet.—Hall of St. George.—Hall of St. Andrew.—Gold Court.—Napoleon’s Descent.— Treasures.—Historical Curiosities.—Precious Orb...

Cathedral of the Assumption.—Bones of the Patriarchs.—The Iconastasis.— Sanctuary.—Archbishop’s Throne.—Coronation Ceremony.—Tombs.—Cathedral of the Archangel Michael.—Religious...

Steam Canal.—The Oscar.—View of Stockholm.—Sodertelje.—St. Olaf.—The Gota Canal.—Castles and Legends.—Soderkoping.—Tavern Breakfast.— Sabbath in Sweden.—Church.—Costumes.—Servic...