The accomplisht cook or, The art & mystery of cookery

Chapter 8

Chapter 84,148 wordsPublic domain

Take a goose and salt it two or three days, then truss it to boil, cut lard as big as your little finger, and lard the breast; season the lard with pepper, mace, and salt; then boil it in beef-broth, or water and salt, put to it pepper grosly beaten, a bundle of bay-leaves, tyme, and rosemary bound up very well, boil them with the fowl; then prepare some cabbidge boild tender in water and salt, squeeze out the water from it, and put it in a pipkin with strong broth, claret wine, and a good big onion or two; season it with pepper, mace, and salt, and three or four anchovies dissolved; stew these together with a ladleful of sweet butter, and a little vinegar: and when the goose is boil'd enough, and your cabbidge on sippets, lay on the goose with some cabbidge on the breast, and serve it up. Thus you may dress any large wild Fowl.

_To boil all manner of small Sea or Land Fowl._

Boil the fowl in water and salt, then take some of the broth, and put to it some beefs-udder boild, and slic't into thin slices with some pistaches blanch'd, some slic't sausages stript out of the skin, white-wine, sweet, herbs, and large mace; stew these together till you think it sufficiently boiled, then put to it beet-root cut into slices, beat it up with butter, and carve up the Fowl, pour the broth on it, and garnish it with sippets, or what you please.

_Or thus._

Take and lard them, then half roast them, draw them, and put them in a pipkin with some strong broth or claret wine, some chesnuts, a pint of great oysters, taking the breads from them, two or three onions minced very small, some mace, a little beaten ginger, and a crust of _French_ bread grated; thicken it, and dish them up on sops: If no oysters, chesnuts, or artichock bottoms, turnips, colliflowers, interlarded bacon in thin slices, and sweetbreads, _&c._

_Otherways._

Take them and roast them, save the gravy, and being roasted, put them in a pipkin, with the gravy, some slic't onions, ginger, cloves, pepper, salt, grated bread, claret wine, currans, capers, mace, barberries, and sugar, serve them on fine sippets, and run them over with beaten butter, slic't lemon, and lemon peel; sometimes for change use stewed oysters or cockles.

_To boil or dress any Land Fowl, or Birds in the Italian fashion, in a Broth called _Brodo-Lardiero_._

Take six Pigeons being finely cleansed, and trust, put them into a pipkin with a quart of strong broth, or water, and half wine, then put therein some fine slices of interlarded bacon, when it boils scum it, and put in nutmeg, mace, ginger, pepper, salt, currans, sugar, some sack, raisins of the sun, prunes, sage, dryed cherries, tyme, a little saffron, and dish them on fine carved sippets.

_To stew Pigeons in the _French_ fashion._

The Pigeons being drawn and trust, make a fearsing or stopping of some sweet herbs minced, then mince some beef-suet or lard, grated bread, currans, cloves, mace, pepper, ginger, sugar, & 3 or 4 raw eggs. The pigeons being larded & half roasted, stuff them with the foresaid fearsing, and put boil'd cabbidge stuck with a few cloves round about them; bind up every Pigeon several with packthread, then put them in a pipkin a boiling with strong mutton broth, three or four yolks of hard eggs minced small, some large mace, whole cloves, pepper, salt, and a little white-wine; being boil'd, serve them on fine carved sippets, and strow on cinamon, ginger, and sugar.

_Otherways in the _French_ Fashion._

Take Pigeons ready pull'd or scalded, take the flesh out of the skin, and leave the skin whole with the legs and wings hanging to it, mince the bodies with some lard or beef suet together very small, then put to them some sweet herbs finely minced, and season all with cloves, mace, ginger, pepper, some grated bread or parmisan grated, and yolks of eggs; fill again the skins, and prick them up in the back, then put them in a dish with some strong broth, and sweet herbs chopped, large mace, gooseberries, barberries, or grapes; then cabbidge-lettice boil'd in water and salt, put to them butter, and the Pigeons being boil'd, serve them on sippets.

_To boil Pigeons otherways._

Being trussed, put them in a pipkin, with some strong broth or fair water, boil and scum them, then put in some mace, a faggot of sweet herbs, white endive, marigold flowers, and salt; and being finely boiled, serve them on sippets, and garnish the dish with mace and white endive flowers.

Otherways you may add Cucumbers in quarters either pickled or fresh, and some pickled capers; or boil the cucumbers by themselves, and put them in beaten butter, and sweet herbs chopped small.

Or boil them with capers, samphire, mace, nutmeg, spinage, endive, and a rack or chine of mutton boil'd with them.

Or else with capers, mace, salt, and sweet herbs in a faggot; then have some cabbidge or colliflowers boil'd very tender in fair water and salt, pour away the water, and put them in beaten butter, and when the fowls be boil'd, serve the cabbidge on them.

_To boil Pigeons otherwaies._

Take Pigeons being finely cleansed and trust, put them in a pipkin or skillet clean scowred, with some mutton broth or fair water; set them a boiling and scum them clean, then put to them large mace, and well washed currans, some strained bread strained with vinegar and broth, put it to the Pigeons with some sweet butter and capers; boil them very white, and being boil'd, serve them on fine carved sippets in the broth with some sugar; garnish them with lemon, fine sugar, mace, grapes, gooseberries, or barberries, and run them over with beaten butter; garnish the dish with grated manchet.

Pottages.

_Pottage in the _Italian_ Fashion._

Boil green pease with some strong broth, and interlarded bacon cut into slices; the pease being boiled, put to them some chopped parsley, pepper, anniseed, and strain some of the pease to thicken the broth; give it a walm and serve it on sippets, with boil'd chickens, pigeons, kids, or lambs-heads, mutton, duck, mallard, or any poultry.

Sometimes for variety you may thicken the broth with eggs.

_Pottage otherways in the Italian Fashion._

Boil a rack of mutton, a few whole cloves, mace, slic't ginger, all manner of sweet herbs chopped, and a little salt; being finely boiled, put in some strained almond-paste, with grape verjuyce, saffron, grapes, or gooseberries; give them a warm, and serve your meat on sippets.

_Pottage of Mutton, Veal, or Beef, in the _English_ Fashion._

Cut a rack of mutton in two pieces, and take a knuckle of veal, and boil it in a gallon pot or pipkin, with good store of herbs, and a pint of oatmeal chopped amongst the herbs, as tyme, sweet marjoram, parsley, chives, salet, succory, marigold-leaves and flowers, strawberry-leaves, violet-leaves, beets, borage, sorrel, bloodwort, sage, pennyroyal; and being finely boil'd, serve them on fine carved sippets with the mutton and veal, _&c._

_To stew a Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters._

Take a shoulder of mutton, and roast it, and being half roasted or more, take off the upper skin whole, & cut the meat into thin slices, then stew it with claret, mace, nutmeg, anchovies, oyster-liquor, salt, capers, olives, samphire, and slices of orange; leave the shoulder blade with some meat on it, and hack it, save also the marrow bone whole with some meat on it, and lay it in a clean dish; the meat being finely stewed, pour it on the bones, and on that some stewed oysters and large oysters over all, with slic't lemon and lemon peel.

The skin being first finely breaded, stew the oysters with large mace, a great onion or two, butter, vinegar, white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, and lay on the skin again over all, _&c._

_To roast a Shoulder of Mutton with Onions and Parsley, and baste it with Oranges._

Stuff it with parsley and onions, or sweet herbs, nutmeg, and salt, and in the roasting of it, baste it with the juyce of oranges, save the gravy and clear away the fat; then stew it up with a slice or two of orange and an anchovie, without any fat on the gravy, _&c._

_Other Hashes of Scotch Collops._

Cut a leg of mutton into thin slices as thin as a shilling, cross the grain of the leg, sprinkle them lightly with salt, and fry them with sweet butter, serve them with gravy or juice of oranges, and nutmeg, and run them over with beaten butter, lemon, _&c._

_Otherways the foresaid Collops._

For variety, sometimes season them with coriander-seed, or stamped fennil-seed, pepper and salt; sprinkle them with white wine, then flower'd, fryed, and served with juice of orange, for sauce, with sirrup of rose-vinegar, or elder vinegar.

_Other Hashes or Scotch Collop of any Joint of Veal, either in Loyn, Leg, Rack or Shoulder._

Cut a leg into thin slices, as you do Scotch collops of mutton, hack and fry them with small thin slices of interlarded bacon as big as the slices of veal, fry them with sweet butter; and being finely fried, dish them up in a fine dish, put from them the butter that you fried them with, and put to them beaten butter with lemon, gravy, and juyce of orange.

_A Hash of a Leg of Mutton in the _French_ fashion._

Parboil a leg of mutton, then take it up, pare off some thin slices on the upper and under side, or round it, prick the leg through to let out the gravy on the slices; then bruise some sweet herbs, as tyme, parsly, marjoram, savory, with the back of a ladle, and put to it a piece of sweet butter, pepper, verjuyce; and when your mutton is boild, pour all over the slices herbs and broth on the leg into a clean dish.

_Another Hash of Mutton or Lamb, either hot or cold._

Roast a shoulder of mutton, and cut it into slices, put to it oysters, white wine, raisins of the sun, salt, nutmeg, and strong broth, (or no raisins) slic't lemon or orange; stew it all together, and serve it on sippets, and run it over with beaten butter and lemon, _&c._

_Another Hash of a Joynt of Mutton or Lamb hot or cold._

Cut it in very thin slices, then put them in a pipkin or dish, and put to it a pint of claret wine, salt, nutmeg, large mace, an anchovie or two, stew them well together with a little gravy; and being finely stewed serve them on carved sippets with some beaten butter & lemon, _&c._

_Otherways._

Cut it into thin slices raw, and fry it with a pint of white wine till it be brown, and put them into a pipkin with slic't lemon, salt, fried parsley, gravy, nutmeg, and garnish your dish with nutmeg and lemon.

_Other Hashes of a Shoulder of Mutton._

Boil it and cut it in thin slices, hack the shoulder-blade, and put all into a pipkin or deep dish, with some salt, gravy, white-wine, some strong broth, and a faggot of sweet herbs, oyster-liquor, caper-liquor, and capers; being stewed down, bruse some parsley, and put to it some beaten cloves and mace, and serve it on sippets.

Divers made Dishes or _Capilotado's_.

_First, a Dish of Chines of Mutton, Veal, Capon, Pigeons, or other Fowls._

Boil a pound of rice in mutton broth, put to it some blanched chesnuts, pine apple-seeds, almonds or pistaches; being boil'd thick, put to it some marrow or fresh butter, salt, cinamon, and sugar; then cut your veal into small bits or peices, and break up the fowl; then have a fair dish, and set it on the embers, and put some of your rice, and some of the meat, and more of the rice and sugar, and cinamon, and pepper over all, and some marrow.

__Capilotado_, in the _Lumbardy_ fashion of a Capon._

Boil rice in mutton broth till it be very thick, and put to it some salt and sugar.

Then have also some Bolonia Sausages boil'd very tender, minced very small, or grated, and some grated cheese, sugar, and cinamon mingled together; then cut up the boil'd or roast capon, and lay it upon a clean dish with some of the rice, strow on cinamon and sausage, grated cheese and sugar, and lay on yolks of raw eggs; thus make two or three layings and more, eggs and some butter or marrow on the top of all, and set it on the embers, and cover it, or in a warm oven.

__Capilotado_ of Pigeons or wild Ducks, or any Land or Sea Fowls roasted._

Take a pound of almond-paste, and put to it a Capon minc't and stamped with the almonds, & some crums of manchet, some sack or white-wine, three pints of strong broth cold, and eight or ten yolks of raw eggs; strain all the foresaid together, and boil it in a skillet with some sugar to a pretty thickness, put to it some cinamon, nutmeg, and a few whole cloves, then have roast Pigeons, or any small birds roasted, cut them up, and do as is aforesaid, and strow on sugar and cinamon.

__Capilotado_ for roast Meats, as Partridges, Pigeons, eight or twelve, or any other the like; or Sea Fowls, Ducks, or Widgeons._

Take a pound of almonds, a pound of currans, a pound of sugar, half a pound of muskefied bisket-bread, a pottle of strong broth cold, half a pint of grape verjuyce, pepper half an ounce, nutmegs as much, an ounce of cinamon, and a few cloves; all these aforesaid stamped, strained, and boil'd with the aforesaid liquor, and in all points as the former, only toasts must be added.

_Other _Capilotado_ common._

Take two pound of parmisan grated, a minced kidney of veal, a pound of other fat cheese, ten cloves of garlick boil'd, broth or none, two capons minced and stamped, rost or boil'd, and put to it ten yolks of eggs raw, with a pound of sugar: temper the foresaid with strong broth, and boil all in a broad skillet or brass pan, in the boiling stir it continually till it be incorporated, and put to it an ounce of cinamon, a little pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and as much nutmeg beaten, some saffron; then break up your roast fowls, roast lamb, kid, or fried veal, make three bottoms, and set it into a warm oven, till you serve it in, _&c._

__Capilotado_, or Custard, in the Hungarian fashion, in the pot, or baked in an Oven._

Take two quarts of goat or cows milk, or two quarts of cream, and the whites of five new laid eggs, yolks and all, or ten yolks, a pound of sugar, half an ounce of cinamon, a little salt, and some saffron; strain it and bake it in a deep dish; being baked, put on the juyce of four or five oranges, a little white wine, rose-water, and beaten ginger, _&c._

_Capilotado Francois._

Roast a leg of mutton, save the gravy, and mince it small, then strain a pound of almond paste with some mutton or capon broth cold, some three pints and a half of grape verjuyce, a pound of sugar, some cinamon, beaten pepper, and salt; the meat and almonds being stamp'd and strained, put it a boiling softly, and stir it continually, till it be well incorporate and thick; then serve it in a dish with some roast chickens, pigeons, or capons: put the gravy to it, and strow on sugar, some marrow, cinamon, _&c._

Sometimes you may add some interlarded bacon instead of marrow, some sweet herbs, and a kidney of veal.

Sometimes eggs, currans, saffron, gooseberries, _&c._

_Other made Dishes, or little Pasties called in Italian _Tortelleti_._

Take a rost or boil'd capon, and a calves udder, or veal, mince it and stamp it with some marrow, mint, or sweet marjoram, put a pound of fat parmisan grated to it, half a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of currans, some chopped sweet herbs, pepper, saffron, nutmeg, cinamon, four or five yolks of eggs, and two whites; mingle all together and make a piece of paste of warm or boiling liquor, and some rose-water, sugar, butter; make some great and some very little, rouls or stars, according to the judgment of the Cook; boil them in broth, milk, or cream. Thus also fish. Serve them with grated fat cheese or parmisan, sugar, and beaten cinamon on them in a dish, _&c._

_Tortelleti, or little Pasties._

Mince some interlarded bacon, some pork or any other meat, with some calves udder, and put to it a pound of fresh cheese, fat cheese, or parmisan, a pound of sugar, and some roasted turnips or parsnips, a quarter of a pound of currans, pepper, cloves, nutmegs, eight eggs, saffron; mingle all together, and make your pasties like little fishes, stars, rouls, or like beans or pease, boil them in flesh broth, and serve them with grated cheese and sugar, and serve them hot.

__Tortelleti_, or little Pasties otherwayes, of Beets or Spinage chopped very small._

Being washed and wrung dry, fry them in butter, put to them some sweet herbs chopped small, with some grated parmisan, some cinamon, cloves, saffron, pepper, currans, raw eggs, and grated bread: Make your pasties, and boil them in strong broth, cream, milk, or almond-milk: thus you may do any fish. Serve them with sugar, cinamon, and grated cheese.

__Tortelleti_, of green Pease, French Beans, or any kind of Pulse green or dry._

Take pease gren or dry, French beans, or garden beans green or dry, boil them tender, and stamp them; strain them through a strainer, and put to them some fried onions chopped small, sugar, cinamon, cloves, pepper, and nutmeg, some grated parmisan, or fat cheese, and some cheese-curds stamped.

Then make paste, and make little pasties, boil them in broth, or as beforesaid, and serve them with sugar, cinamon, and grated cheese in a fine clean dish.

_To boil a Capon or chicken with Colliflowers in the French Fashion._

Cut off the buds of your flowers, and boil them in milk with a little mace till they be very tender; then take the yolks of 2 eggs, strain them with a quarter of a pint of sack; then take as much thick butter, being drawn with a little vinegar and a slic't lemon, brew them together; then take the flowers out of the milk, and put them into the butter and sack: then dish up your Capon, being tender boil'd, upon sippets finely carved, and pour on the sauce, and serve it to the Table with a little salt.

_To boil Capons, Chickens, Pigeons, or any Land Fowls in the French Fashion._

Either the skin stuffed with minced meat, or boned, & fill the vents and body; or not boned and trust to boil, fill the bodies with any of the farsings following made of any minced meat, and seasoned with pepper, cloves, mace, and salt; then mince some sweet herbs with bacon and fowl, veal, mutton, or lamb, and mix with it three or four eggs, mingle all together with grapes, gooseberries, barberries, or red currans, and sugar, or none, some pine-apple-seed, or pistaches; fill the fowl, and stew it in a stewing-pan with some strong broth, as much as will cover them, and a little white wine; being stewed, serve them in a dish with sippets finely carved, and slic't oranges, lemons, barberries, gooseberries, sweet herbs chopped, and mace.

_To boil Partridges, or any of the former Fowls stuffed with any the filling aforesaid._

Boil them in a pipkin with strong broth, white-wine, mace, sweet herbs chopped very fine, and put some salt, and stew them leisurely; being finely stewed, put some marrow, and strained almonds, with rosewater to thicken it, serve them on fine carved sippets, and broth them, garnish the dish with grated bread and pistaches, mace, and lemon, or grapes.

_To boil Pigeons, Woodcocks, Snites, Black birds, Thrushes, Veldifers, Rails, Quails, Larks, Sparrows, Wheat ears, Martins, or any small Land Fowl._

_Woodcocks or Snites._

Boil them either in strong broth or water and salt, and being boil'd, take out the guts, and chop them small with the liver, put to it some crumb of white-bread grated, a little of the broth of the cock, and some large mace, stew them together with some gravy; then dissolve the yolks of two eggs with some wine vinegar, and a little grated nutmeg, and when you are ready to dish it, put the eggs to it, and stir it amongst the sauce with a little butter, dish them on sippets, and run the sauce over them with some beaten butter and capers, lemon minced small, barberries or pickled grapes whole.

Sometimes with this sauce, boil some slic't onions and currans in a broth by it self: when you boil it not with onions, rub the bottom of the dish with a clove or two of garlick.

_Boil Woodcocks or Larks otherways._

Take them with the guts in, and boil them in some strong broth or fair water, and three or four whole onions, larg mace, and salt; the cocks being boil'd, make sauce with the some thin slices of manchet, or grated, in another pipkin, and some of the broth where the fowl or cocks boil, and put to it some butter, the guts and liver minced, and then have some yolks of eggs dissolved with some vinegar & some grated nutmeg, put it to the other ingredients, and stir them together, and dish the fowl on fine sippets, and pour on the sauce and some slic't lemon, grapes, or barberries, and run it over with beaten buter.

_To boil all manner of Sea Fowl, or any wild Fowl, as Swan, Whopper, Crane, Geese, Shoveler, Hern, Bittorn, Duck, Widgeons, Gulls, Curlew, Teels, Ruffs,_ &c.

Stuff either the skin with his own meat, being minced with lard or beef-suet, some sweet herbs, beaten nutmeg, cloves, mace, and parboil'd oysters; mix all together, fill the skin, and prick it fast on the back, boil it in a large stewing pan or deep dish, with some strong broth, claret or white-wine, salt, large mace, two or three cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, or none, oyster-liquor and marrow, stew all well together. Then have stewed oysters by themselves ready stewed with an onion or two, mace, pepper, butter, and a little white-wine.

Then have the bottoms of artichocks put in beaten butter, and some boild marrow ready also; then again dish up the fowl on fine carved sippets, broth the fowl, & lay on the oysters, artichocks, marrow, barberries, slic't lemon, gooseberries, or grape; and garnish your dish with grated manchet strowed, and some oysters, mace, lemon, and artichocks, and run it over with beaten butter.

Otherways bone it and fill the body with a farsing or stuffing made of minced mutton with spices, and the same materials as aforesaid.

Otherways, Make a pudding and fill the body, being first boned, and make the pudding of grated bread, sweet herbs chopped; onions, minced suet or lard, cloves, mace, pepper, salt, blood, and cream; mingle all together, as beforesaid in all points.

Or a bread pudding without blood or onions, and put minced meat to it, fruit, and sugar.

Otherways, boil them in strong broth, claret-wine, mace, cloves, salt, pepper, saffron, marrow, minced, onions, and thickned with strained sweet-breads of veal; or hard eggs strained with broth, and garnished with barberries, lemon, grapes, red currans, or gooseberries.

_To boil all manner of Sea Fowls, as Swan, Whopper, Geese, Ducks, Teels._ &c.

Put your fowl being cleansed and trussed into a pipkin fit for it, and boil it with strong broth or fair spring water, scum it clean, and put in three or four slic't onions, some large mace, currans, raisins, some capers, a bundle of sweet herbs, grated or strained bread, white-wine, two or three cloves, and pepper; being finely boil'd, slash it on the breast, and dish it on fine carved sippets; broth it, and lay on slic't lemon and a lemon peel, barberries or grapes, run it over with beaten butter, sugar, or ginger, and trim the dish sides with grated bread in place of the beaten ginger.

_To boil these Fowls otherways._

You may add some oyster liquor, barberries, grapes, gooseberries, or lemon.

And sometimes prunes, raisins, or currans.

Otherways, half roast any of your fowls, slash them down the breast, and put them in a pipkin with the breast downward, put to them two or three slic't onions and carrots cut like lard, some mace, pepper, and salt, butter, savory, tyme, some strong broth, and some white-wine; let the broth be half wasted, and stew it very softly; being finely stewed dish it up, serve it on sippets, and pour on the broth, _&c._