The accomplisht cook or, The art & mystery of cookery
Chapter 6
Or otherways, being stewed as aforesaid without eggs, cream, or butter, serve them as formerly. And these will serve for boil'd Chickens, or any kind of fowl for garnish.
_To make a Bisk the best way._
Take a leg of Beef and a Knuckle of veal, boil them in two gallons of fair water, scum them clean, and put to them some cloves, and mace, then boil them from two gallons to three quarts of Broth; being boil'd strain it and put it in a pipkin, when it is cold, take off the fat and bottom, clear it into another clean pipkin; and keep it warm till the Bisk be ready.
Boil the Fowl in the liquor of the Marrow-Bones of six peeping chickens, and six peeping pigeons in a clean pipkin, either in some Broth, or in water and salt. Boil the marrow by it self in a pipkin in the same broth with some salt.
Then have pallats, noses, lips, boil'd tender, blancht and cut into bits as big as sixpence; also some sheeps tongues boil'd, blancht, larded, fryed, and stewed in gravy, with some chesnuts blanched; also some cocks combs boil'd and blanched, and some knots of Eggs, or yolks of hard eggs. Stew all the aforesaid in some rost mutton, or beef gravy, with some pistaches, large mace, a good big onion or two, and some salt.
Then have lamb stones blancht and slic't, also sweet-breads of veal, and sweet-breads of lamb slit, some great oysters parboil'd, and some cock stones. Fry the foresaid materials in clarified butter, some fryed spinage, or Alexander leaves, & keep them warm in an oven, with some fried sausages made of minced bacon, veal, yolks of eggs, nutmegs, sweet herbs, salt and pistaches; bake it in an oven in cauls of veal, and being baked and cold, slice it round, fry it, and keep it warm in the oven with the foresaid fried things.
_To make little Pies for the Bisk._
Mince a leg of Veal, or a leg of Mutton with some interlarded bacon raw and seasoned with a little salt, nutmeg, pepper, some sweet herbs, pistaches, grapes, gooseberries, barberries, and yolks of hard eggs, in quarters; mingle all together, fill them, and close them up; and being baked liquor them with gravy, and beaten butter, or mutton broth. Make the past of a pottle of flower, half a pound of butter, six yolks of eggs, and boil the liquor and butter together.
_To make gravy for the Bisk._
Roast eight pound of buttock beef, and two legs of mutton, being throughly roasted, press out the gravy, and wash them with some mutton broth, and when you have done, strain it, and keep it warm in a clean pipkin for your present use.
_To dish the Bisk._
Take a great eight pound dish, and a six penny french pinemolet or bread; chip it and slice it into large slices, and cover all the bottom of the dish; scald it or steep it well with your strong broth, and upon that some mutton or beef gravy; then dish up the fowl on the dish, and round the dish the fried tongues in gravy with the lips, pallats, pistaches, eggs, noses, chesnuts, and cocks combs, and run them over the fowls with some of the gravy, and large mace.
Then again run it over with fried sweetbread, sausage, lamb-stones, cock-stones, fried spinage, or alexander leaves, then the marrow over all; next the carved lemons upon the meat, and run it over with the beaten butter, yolks of eggs, and gravy beat up together till it is thick; then garnish the dish with the little pies, Dolphins of puff-paste, chesnuts, boiled and fried oysters, and yolks of hard eggs.
_To Boil Chines of Veal._
First, stew them in a stewing pan or between two dishes, with some strong broth of either veal or mutton, some white wine, and some sausages made of minced veal or pork, boil up the chines, scum them, and put in two or three blades of large mace, a few cloves, oyster or caper liquor with a little salt; and being finely boil'd down put in some good mutton or beef-gravy; and a quarter of an hour before you dish them, have all manner of sweet herbs pickt and stript, as tyme, sweet marjoram, savory, parsley, bruised with the back of a ladle, and give them two or three walms on the fire in the broth; then dish the chines in thin slices of fine French bread, broth them, and lay on them some boiled beef-marrow, boil'd in strong broth, some slic't lemon, and run all over with a lear made of beaten butter, the yolk of an egg or two, the juyce of two or three oranges, and some gravy, _&c._
_To boil or stew any Joynt of Mutton._
Take a whole loin of mutton being jointed, put it into a long stewing pan or large dish, in as much fair water as will more than half cover it, and when it is scum'd cover it; but first put in some salt, white wine, and carrots cut into dice-work, and when the broth is half boiled strain it, blow off the fat, and wash away the dregs from the mutton, wash also the stew-pan or pipkin very clean, and put in again the broth into the pan or pipkin, with some capers, large mace, and carrots; being washed, put them in again, and stew them softly, lay the mutton by in some warm place, or broth, in a pipkin; then put in some sweet herbs chopped with an onion, and put it to your broth also, then have colliflowers ready boild in water and salt, put them into beaten butter with some boil'd marrow: then the mutton and broth being ready, dissolve two or three yolks of eggs, with white wine, verjuyce, or sack, and give it a walm or two; then dish up the meat, and lay on the colliflowers, gooseberries, capers, marrow, carrots, and grapes or barberries, and run it over with beaten butter.
For the garnish according to the season of the year, sparagus, artichocks, parsnips, turnips, hopbuds, coleworts, cabbidge-lettice, chestnuts, cabbidge-sprouts.
Sometimes for more variety, for thickning of this broth, strained almonds, with strong mutton broth.
_To boil a Rack, Chine, or Loin of Mutton a most excellent way, either whole or in pieces._
Boil it either in a flat large pipkin or stewing pan, with as much fair water as will cover the meat, and when it boils scum it, and put thereto some salt; and being half boiled take up the meat, and strain the Broth, blow off the fat, and wash the stewing-pan and the meat from the dregs, then again put in the crag end of the rack of mutton to make the Broth good, with some mace; then a little before you take it up, take a handful of picked parsley, chop it very small, and put it in the Broth, with some whole marigold flowers; put in the chine again, and give it a walm or two, then dish it on fine sippets, and broth it, then add thereto raisins of the sun, and currans ready boil'd and warm, lay them over the chine of mutton, then garnish the dish with marigold-flowers, mace, lemon, and barberries.
Other ways for change without fruit.
_To boil a Chine of Mutton in Barley broth; or Chines, Racks, and Knuckles of Veal._
Take a chine of veal or mutton and joynt it, put it in a pipkin with some strong mutton broth, and when it boils and is scummed, put in some french barley, being first boiled in fair water, put into the broth some large mace and some sweet herbs bound up in a bundle, a little rosemary, tyme, winter-savory, salt, and sweet marjoram, bind them up very hard; and put in some raisins of the sun, some good pruens, currans, and marigold-flowers; boil it up to an indifferent thickness, and serve it on fine sippets; garnish the dish with fruit and marigold-flowers, mace, lemon, and boil'd marrow.
Otherways without fruit, put some good mutton gravy, and sometimes raisins only.
_To stew a Chine of Mutton or Veal._
Put it in a pipkin with strong broth and white wine; and when it boils scum it, and put to some oyster-liquor, salt, whole pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs well bound up, two or three blades of large mace, a whole onion, with some interlarded bacon cut into dice work, some chesnuts, and some capers, then have some stewed oysters by themselves, as you may see in the Book of Oysters. The chines being ready, garnish the dish with great oysters fried and stewed, mace, chesnuts, and lemon peel; dish up the chines in a fair dish on fine sippets; broth it, and garnish the chines with stewed oysters; chesnuts, mace, slic't lemon and some fried oysters.
_To make a dish of Steaks, stewed in a Frying pan._
Take them and fry them in sweet butter; being half fried, put out the butter, & put to them some good strong ale, pepper, salt, a shred onion, and nutmeg; stew them well together, and dish them on sippets, serve them and pour on the sauce with some beaten butter, _&c._
_To make stewd Broth._
Take a knuckle of veal, a joint of mutton, loin or rack, two marrow-bones, a capon, and boil them in fair water, scum them when they boil, and put to them a bundle of sweet herbs bound up hard and close; then add some large mace, whole cinamon, and some ginger, bruised and put in a fine clean cloth bound up fast, and a few whole cloves, some strained manchet, or beaten oatmeal strained and put to the broth; then have prunes and currans boil'd and strain'd; then put in some whole raisins, currans, some good damask prunes, and boil not the fruit too much, about half an hour before you dish your meat, put into the broth a pint of claret wine, and some sugar; dish up the meat on fine sippets, broth it, and garnish the dish with slic't Lemons, prunes, mace, raisins, currans, scraped sugar, and barberries; garnish the meat in the dish also.
_Stewed Broth in the new Mode or Fashion._
Take a joynt of mutton, rack, or loin, and boil them in pieces or whole in fair water, scum them, and being scummed and half boil'd, take up the mutton, and wash away the dregs from the meat; strain the broth, and blow away the fat; then put the broth into a clean pipkin, with a bundle of sweet herbs bound up hard; then put thereto some large mace, raisins of the sun boil'd and strain'd, with half as many prunes; also some saffron, a few whole cloves, pepper, salt, claret wine, and sugar; and being finely stewed together, a little before you dish it up, put in the meat, and give it a walm or two; dish it up, and serve it on fine carved sippets.
_To stew a Loin, Rack, or any Joynt of Mutton otherways._
Chop a loin into steaks, lay it in a deep dish or stewing pan, and put to it half a pint of claret, and as much water, salt, and pepper, three or four whole onions, a faggot of sweet herbs bound up hard, and some large mace, cover them close, and stew them leisurely the space of two hours, turn them now & then, and serve them on sippets.
Otherways for change, being half boiled, put to them some sweet herbs chopped, give them a walm, and serve them on sippets with scalded gooseberies, barberries, grapes, or lemon.
Sometimes for variety put Raisins, Prunes, Currans, Dates, and serve them with slic't lemon, beaten butter.
Othertimes you may alter the spices, and put nutmeg, cloves, ginger, _&c._
Sometimes to the first plain way put capers, pickled cucumbers, samphire, _&c._
_Otherwayes._
Stew it between two dishes with fair water, and when it boils, scum it, and put in three or four blades of large mace, gross pepper, cloves, and salt; stew them close covered two hours, then have parsley picked, and some stript, fine spinage, sorrel, savory, and sweet marjoram chopped with some onions, put them to your meat, and give it a walm, with some grated bread amongst them; then dish them on carved sippets, blow off the fat on the broth, and broth it, lay a lemon on it and beaten butter, and stew it thus whole.
_To dress or force a Leg of Veal a singular good way, in the newest Mode._
Take a leg of veal, take out the meat, and leave the skin and the shape of the leg whole together, mince the meat that came out of the leg with some beef-suet or lard, and some sweet herbs minced; then season it with pepper, nutmeg, ginger, and cloves, all being fine beaten, with some salt, a clove or two of garlick, three or four yolks of hard eggs in quarters, pine-apple seed, two or three raw eggs, also pistaches, chesnuts, & some quarters of boil'd artichocks bottoms, fill the leg and sowe it up, boil it in a pipkin with two gallons of fair water and some white wine; being scumm'd and almost boil'd, take up some broth into a dish or pipkin, and put to it some chesnuts, pistaches, pine-apple-seed, some large mace, marrow, and artichocks bottoms boil'd and cut into quarters, stew all the foresaid well together; then have some fried tost of manchet or rowls finely carved. The leg being well boil'd, (dainty and tender) dish it on French bread, fry some toast of it, and sippets round about it, broth it, and put on it marrow, and your other materials, a slic't lemon, and lemon peel, and run it over with beaten butter.
Thicken the broth sometimes with almond paste strained with some of the broth, or for variety, yolks of eggs and saffron strained with some of the broth, or saffron only. One may add sometimes some of the minced meat made up into balls, and stewed amongst the broth, _&c._
_To boil a Leg or Knuckle of Veal with Rice._
Boil it in a pipkin, put some salt to it, and scum it, then put to some mace and some rice finely picked and washed, some raisins of the sun and gravy; being fine and tender boil'd put in some saffron, and serve on fine carved sippets, with the rice over all.
Otherwayes with paste cut like small lard, and boil it in thin broth and saffron.
Or otherways in white broth, with fruit, sweet herbs, white wine and gooseberries.
_To boil a Breast of Veal._
Jonyt it well and parboil it a little, then put it in a stewing pan or deep dish with some strong broth and a bundle of sweet herbs well bound up, some large mace, and some slices of interlarded bacon, two or three cloves, some capers, samphire, salt, spinage, yolks of hard eggs, and white wine; stew all these well together, being tender boil'd, serve it on fine carved sippets, and broth it; then have some fryed sweetbreads, sausages of veal or pork, garlick or none, and run all over with beaten butter, lemon, and fryed parsley over all. Thus you may boil a rack loin of Veal.
_To boil a Breast of Veal otherways._
Make a pudding of grated manchet, minced suet, and minced veal, season it with nutmeg, pepper, salt, three or four eggs, cinamon, dates, currans, raisins of the sun, some grapes, sugar, and cream; mingle all together, fill the breast, prick it up, and stew it between two dishes with white wine, strong broth, mace, dates, and marrow, being finely stewed serve it on sippets, and run it over with beaten butter, lemon, barberries or grapes.
Sometimes thick it with some almond-milk, sugar, and cream.
_To force a Breast of Veal._
Mince some veal or mutton with some beef-suet or fat bacon, some sweet herbs minced, & seasoned with some cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, two or three raw eggs, and salt; then prick it up: the breast being filled at the lower end stew it between two dishes, with some strong broth, white wine, and large mace; then an hour after have sweet herbs pickt and stript, as tyme, sorrel, parsley, and sweet marjoram, bruised with the back of a ladle, put it into your broth with some marrow, and give them a warm; then dish up your breast of veal on sippets finely carved, broth it, and lay on slic't lemon, marrow, mace and barberries, and run it over with beaten butter.
If you will have the broth yellow put thereto saffron, _&c._
_To boil a Leg of Veal._
Stuff it with beef-suet, sweet herbs chopped, nutmeg and salt, and boil it in fair water and salt; then take some of the broth, and put thereto some capers, currans, large mace, a piece of interlarded bacon, two or three whole cloves, pieces of pears, some boil'd artichocks suckers, some beaten butter, boil'd marrow, and mace; then before you dish it up, have sorrel, sage, parsley, time, sweet marjoram, coursly minced with two or three cuts of a knife, and bruised with the back of a ladle on a clean board; put them into your broth to make it green, & give it a walm or two, then dish it up on fine carved sippets, pour on the broth, and then your other materials, some gooseberries, barberries, beaten butter and lemon.
_To boil a Leg of Mutton._
Take a fair leg of mutton, boil it in water and salt, make sauce with gravy, wine vinegar, white wine, salt, butter, nutmeg, and strong broth; and being well stewed together, dish it up on fine carved sippets, and pour on your broth.
Garnish your dish with barberries, capers, and slic't lemon, and garnish the leg of mutton with the same garnish and run it over with beaten butter, slic't lemon, and grated nutmeg.
_To boil a Leg of Mutton otherways._
Take a good leg of mutton, and boil it in water and salt, being stuffed with sweet herbs chopped with beef-suet, some salt and nutmeg; then being almost boil'd take up some of the broth into a pipkin, and put to it some large mace, a few currans, a handful of French capers, a little sack, the yolks of three or four hard eggs minced small, and some lemon cut like square dice; being finely boil'd, dish it on carved sippets, broth it and run it over with beaten batter, and lemon shred small.
_Otherways._
Stuff a leg of mutton with parsley being finely picked, boil it in water and salt, and serve it on a fair dish with parsley and verjuyce in saucers.
_Otherways._
Boil it in water and salt not stuffed, and being boiled, stuff it with lemon in bits like square dice, and serve it with the peel cut square round about it; make sauce with the gravy, beaten butter, lemon, and grated nutmeg.
_Otherways._
Boil it in water and salt, being stuffed with parsley, make sauce for it with large mace, gravy, chopped parsley, butter, vinegar, juyce of orange, gooseberries, barberries, grapes, and sugar, serve it on sippets.
_To boil peeping Chickens, the best and rarest way, alamode._
Take three or four _French_ manchets, & being chipped, cut a round hole in the top of them, take out the crum, and make a composition of the brawn of a roast capon, mince it very fine, and stamp it in a mortar with marchpane paste, the yolks of hard eggs, mukefied bisket bread, and the crum of the manchet of one of the breads, some sugar & sweet herbs chopped small, beaten cinamon, cream, marrow, saffron, yolks of eggs, and some currans; fill the breads, and boil them in a napkin in some good mutton or capon broath; but first stop the holes in the tops of the breads, then stew some sweet-breads of veal, and six peeping chickens between two dishes, or a pipkin with some mace, then fry some lamb-stones slic't in batter made of flower, cream, two or three eggs, and salt; put to it some juyce of spinage, then have some boil'd sparagus, or bottoms of artichocks boil'd and beat up in beaten butter and gravy. The materials being well boil'd and stewed up, dish the boil'd breads in a fair dish with the chickens round about the breads, then the sweetbreads, and round the dish some fine carved sippets; then lay on the marrow, fried lamb-stones, and some grapes; then thicken the broth with strained almonds, some Cream and Sugar, give them a warm, and broth the meat, garnish it with canded pistaches, artichocks, grapes, mace, some poungarnet, and slic't lemon.
_To hash a Shoulder of Mutton._
Take a Shoulder of Mutton, roast it, and save the gravy, slice one half, and mince the other, and put it into a pipkin with the shoulder blade, put to it some strong broth of good mutton or beef-gravy, large mace, some pepper, salt, and a big onion or two, a faggot of sweet herbs, and a pint of white wine; stew them well together close covered, and being tender stewed, put away the fat, and put some oyster-liquor to the meat, and give it a warm: Then have three pints of great oysters parboil'd in their own liquor, and bearded; stew them in a pipkin with large mace, two great whole onions, a little salt, vinegar, butter, some white-wine, pepper, and stript tyme; the materials being well stewed down, dish up the shoulder of mutton on a fine clean dish, and pour on the materials or hashed mutton, then the stewed oysters over all; with slic't lemon and fine carved sippets round the dish.
_To hash a Shoulder of Mutton otherways._
Stew it with claret-wine, only adding these few varieties more than the other; _viz._ two or three anchoves, olives, capers, samphire, barberries, grapes, or gooseberries, and in all points else as the former. But then the shoulder being rosted, take off the skin of the upper side whole, and when the meat is dished, lay on the upper skin whole, and cox it.
_To hash a Shoulder of Mutton the French way._
Take a shoulder of mutton, roast it thorowly, and save the gravy; being well roasted, cut it in fine thin slices into a stewing pan, or dish; leave the shoulder bones with some meat on them, and hack them with your knife; then blow off the fat from the gravy you saved, and put it to your meat with a quarter of a pint of claret wine, some salt, and a grated nutmeg; stew all the foresaid things together a quarter of an hour, and serve it in a fine clean dish with sippets of French bread; then rub the dish bottom with a clove of garlick, or an onion, as you please; dish up the shoulder bones first, and then the meat on that; then have a good lemon cut into dice work, as square as small dice, and peel all together, and strew it on the meat; then run it over with beaten butter, and gravy of Mutton.
_Scotch Collops of Mutton._
Take a leg of mutton, and take out the bone, leave the leg whole, and cut large collops round the leg as thin as a half-crown piece; hack them, then salt and broil them on a clear charcoal fire, broil them up quick, and the blood will rise on the upper side; then take them up plum off the fire, and turn the gravy into a dish, this done, broil the other side, but have a care you broil them not too dry; then make sauce with the gravy, a little claret wine, and nutmeg; give the collops a turn or two in the gravy, and dish them one by one, or two, one upon another; then run them over with the juyce of orange or lemon.
_Scotch Collops of a Leg or Loin of Mutton otherways._
Bone a leg of mutton, and cut it cross the grain of the meat, slice it into very thin slices, & hack them with the back of a knife, then fry them in the best butter you can get, but first salt them a little before they be fried; or being not too much fried, pour away the butter, and put to them some mutton broth or gravy only, give them a walm in the pan, and dish them hot.
Sometimes for change put to them grated nutmeg, gravy, juyce of orange, and a little claret wine; and being fried as the former, give it a walm, run it over with beaten butter, and serve it up hot.
Otherways for more variety, add some capers, oysters, and lemon.
_To make a Hash of Partridges or Capons._
Take twelve partridges and roast them, and being cold mince them very fine, the brawns or wings, and leave the legs and rumps whole; then put some strong mutton broth to them, or good mutton gravy, grated nutmeg, a great onion or two, some pistaches, chesnuts, and salt; then stew them in a large earthen pipkin or sauce-pan; stew the rumps and legs by themselves in strong broth in another pipkin; then have a fine clean dish, and take a _French_ six penny bread, chip it, and cover the bottom of the dish, and when you go to dish the Hash steep the bread with some good mutton broth, or good mutton gravy; then pour the Hash on the steeped bread, lay the legs and the rumps on the Hash, with some fried oysters, pistaches, chesnuts, slic't lemon, and lemon-peel, yolks of eggs strained with juyce of orange and beaten butter beat together, and run over all; garnish the dish with carved oranges, lemons, fried oysters, chesnuts, and pistaches. Thus you may hash any kind of Fowl, whether Water or Land-Fowl.
_To hash a Hare._