The accomplisht cook or, The art & mystery of cookery
Chapter 3
Now to dish your Olio, dish first your Beef, Veal or Pork; then your Venison, and Mutton, Tongues, Sausage, and Roots over all.
Then next your largest Fowl, Land-Fowl, or Sea-Fowl, as first, a Goose, or Turkey, two Capons, two Pheasants, four Ducks, four Widgeons, four Stock-Doves, four Partridges, eight Teals, twelve Snites, twenty four Quailes, forty eight Larks, _&c._
Then broth it, and put on your pipkin of Colliflowers Artichocks, Chesnuts, some sweet-breads fried, Yolks of hard Eggs, then Marrow boil'd in strong broth or water, large Mace, Saffron, Pistaches, and all the aforesaid things being finely stewed up, and some red Beets over all, slic't Lemons, and Lemon peels whole, and run it over with beaten butter.
_Marrow Pies._
For the garnish of the dish, make marrow pies made like round Chewets but not so high altogether, then have sweet-breads of veal cut like small dice, some pistaches, and Marrow, some Potato's, or Artichocks cut like Sweetbreads: as also some enterlarded Bacon; Yolks of hard Eggs, Nutmeg, Salt, Goosberries, Grapes, or Barberries, and some minced Veal in the bottom of the Pie minced with some Bacon or Beef-suit, Sparagus and Chesnuts, with a little musk; close them up, and bast them with saffron water, bake them, and liquor it with beaten butter, and set them about the dish side or brims, with some bottoms of Artichocks, and yolks of hard Eggs, Lemons in quarters, Poungarnets and red Beets boil'd, and carved.
_Other Marrow Pies._
Otherways for variety, you may make other Marrow Pies of minced Veal and Beef-suit, seasoned with Pepper, Salt, Nutmegs and boiled Sparagus, cut half an inch long, yolks of hard Eggs cut in quarters, and mingled with the meat and marrow: fill your Pies, bake them not too hard, musk them, _&c._
_Other Marrow Pies._
Otherways, Marrow Pies of bottoms of little Artichocks, Suckers, yolks of hard eggs, Chesnuts, Marrow, and interlarded Bacon cut like dice, some Veal sweet-breads cut also, or Lamb-stones, Potato's, or Skirrets, and Sparagus, or none; season them lightly with Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt, close your Pies, and bake them.
__Olio_, Marrow Pies._
_Butter three pound, Flower one quart, Lamb-Stones three pair, Sweet-Breads six, Marrow-bones eight, large Mace, Cock-stones twenty, interlarded Bacon one pound, knots of Eggs twelve, Artichocks twelve, Sparagus one hundred, Cocks-Combs twenty, Pistaches one pound, Nutmegs, Pepper, and Salt._
Season the aforesaid lightly, and lay them in the Pie upon some minced veal or mutton, your interlarded Bacon in thin slices of half an inch long, mingled among the rest, fill the Pie, and put in some Grapes, and slic't Lemon, Barberries or Goosberries.
1. Pies of Marrow.
_Flower, Sweet bread, Marrow, Artichocks, Pistaches, Nutmegs, Eggs, Bacon, Veal, Suit, Sparagus, Chesnuts; Musk, Saffron, Butter._
2. Marrow Pies.
_Flower, Butter, Veal, Suet, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Sparagus, Eggs, Grapes, Marrow, Saffron._
3. Marrow Pies.
_Flower, Butter, Eggs, Artichocks, Sweet-bread, Lamb-stones, Potato's, Nutmegs, Pepper, Salt, Skirrets, Grapes, Bacon._
To the garnish of an extraordinary Olio: as followeth.
_Two Collers of Pigbrawn, two Marrow Pies, twelve roste Turtle Doves in a Pie, four Pies, eighteen Quails in a Pie, four Pies, two Sallets, two Jelleys of two colours, two forc't meats, two Tarts._
Thus for an extraordinary Olio, or Olio Royal.
_To make a Bisk divers ways._
Take a wrack of Mutton, and a Knuckle of Veal, put them a boiling in a Pipkin of a Gallon, with some fair water, and when it boils, scum it, and put to it some salt, two or three blades of large Mace, and a Clove or two; boil it to three pints, and strain the meat, save the broth for your use and take off the fat clean.
Then boil twelve Pigeon-Peepers, and eight Chicken Peepers, in a Pipkin with fair water, salt, and a piece of interlarded Bacon, scum them clean, and boil them fine, white and quick.
Then have a rost Capon minced, and put to it some Gravy, Nutmegs, and Salt, and stew it together; then put to it the juyce of two or three Oranges, and beaten Butter, _&c._
Then have ten sweet breads, and ten pallets fried, and the same number of lips and noses being first tender boil'd and blanched, cut them like lard, and fry them, put away the butter, and put to them gravy, a little anchove, nutmeg, and a little garlick, or none, the juyce of two or three Oranges, and Marrow fried in Butter with Sage-leaves, and some beaten Butter.
Then again have some boil'd Marrow and twelve Artichocks, Suckers, and Peeches finely boil'd and put into beaten Butter, some Pistaches boiled also in some wine and Gravy, eight Sheeps tongues larded and boiled, and one hundred Sparagus boiled, and put into beaten Butter, or Skirrets.
Then have Lemons carved, and some cut like little dice.
Again fry some Spinage and Parsley, _&c._
These forefaid materials being ready, have some _French_ bread in the bottom of your dish.
Then dish on it your Chickens, and Pidgeons, broth it; next your Quaile, then Sweet breads, then your Pullets, then your Artichocks or Sparagus, and Pistaches, then your Lemon, Poungarnet, or Grapes, Spinage, and fryed Marrow; and if yellow Saffron or fried Sage, then round the center of your boiled meat put your minced Capon, then run all over with beaten butter, &c.
1. For variety, Clary fryed with yolks of Eggs.
2. Knots of Eggs.
3. Cocks Stones.
4. Cocks Combs.
5. If white, strained Almonds, with some of the broth.
6. Goosberries or Barberries.
7. Minced meat in Balls.
8. If green, Juyce of Spinage stamped with manchet, and strained with some of the broth, and give it a warm.
9. Garnish with boiled Spinage.
10. If yellow, yolks of hard Eggs strained with some Broth and Saffron.
And many other varieties.
_A Bisk otherways._
Take a Leg of Beef, cut it into two peices, and boil it in a gallon or five quarts of water, scum it, and about half an hour after put in a knuckle of Veal, and scum it also, boil it from five quarts to two quarts or less; and being three quarters boil'd, put in some Salt, and some Cloves, and Mace, being through boil'd, strain it from the meat, and keep the broth for your use in a pipkin.
Then have eight Marrow bones clean scraped from the flesh, and finely cracked over the middle, boil in water and salt three of them, and the other leave for garnish, to be boil'd in strong broth; and laid on the top of the Bisk when it is dished.
Again boil your Fowl in water and Salt, Teals, Partridges, Pidgeons, Plovers, Quails, Larks.
Then have a Joint of Mutton made into balls with sweet Herbs, Salt, Nutmeggs, grated Bread, Eggs, Suit, a Clove or two of Garlick, and Pistaches, boil'd in Broth, with some interlarded Bacon, Sheeps tongues, larded and stewed, as also some Artichocks, Marrow, Pistaches, Sweet-Breads and Lambs-stones in strong broth, and Mace a Clove or two, some white-wine and strained almonds, or with the yolk of an Egg, Verjuyce, beaten butter, and slic't Lemon, or Grapes whole.
Then have fryed Clary, and fryed Pistaches in Yolks of Eggs.
Then Carved Lemons over all.
_To make another curious boil'd meat, much like a Bisk._
Take a Rack of Mutton, cut it in four peices, and boil it in three quarts of fair Water in a Pipkin, with a faggot of sweet Herbs very hard and close bound up from end to end, scum your broth and put in some salt: Then about half an hour after put in thre chickens finely scalded and trust, three Patridges boiled in water, the blood being well soaked out of them, and put to them also three or four blades of large Mace.
Then have all manner of sweet herbs, as Parsley, Time, Savory, Marjorim, Sorrel, Sage; these being finely picked, bruise them with the back of a ladle, and a little before you dish up your boil'd meat, put them to your broth, and give them a walm or two.
Again, for the top of your boil'd meat or garnish, have a pound of interlarded Bacon in thin slices, put them in a pipkin with six marrow-bones, and twelve bottoms of yong Artichocks, and some six sweet-breads of veal, strong broth, Mace, Nutmeg, some Goosberries or Barberries, some Butter and Pistaches.
These things aforesaid being ready, and dinner called for, take a fine clean scoured dish and garnish it with Pistaches and Artichocks, carved Lemon, Grapes, and large Mace.
Then have sippets finely carved, and some slices of _French_ bread in the bottom of the dish, dish three pieces of Mutton, and one in the middle, and between the mutton three Chickens, and up in the middle, the Partridge, and pour on the broth with your herbs, then put on your pipkin over all, of Marrow, Artichocks, and the other materials, then Carved Lemon, Barberries and beaten Butter over all, your carved sippets round the dish.
_Another made Dish in the French Fashion, called an _Entre de Table_, Entrance to the Table._
Take the bottoms of boil'd Artichocks, the yolks of hard Eggs, yong Chicken-peepers, or Pidgeon-peepers, finely trust, Sweetbreads of Veal, Lamb-stones, blanched, and put them in a Pipkin, with Cockstones, and combs, and knots of Eggs; then put to them some strong broth, white-wine, large Mace, Nutmeg, Pepper, Butter, Salt, and Marrow, and stew them softly together.
Then have Goosberries or Grapes perboil'd, or Barberries, and put to them some beaten Butter; and Potato's, Skirrets or Sparagus boil'd, and put in beaten butter, and some boil'd Pistaches.
These being finely stewed, dish your fowls on fine carved sippets, and pour on your Sweet-Breads, Artichocks, and Sparagus on them, Grapes, and slic't Lemon, and run all over with beaten butter, _&c._
Somtimes for variety, you may put some boil'd Cabbidge, Lettice, Colliflowers, Balls of minced meat, or Sausages without skins, fryed Almonds, Calves Udder.
_Another French boil'd meat of Pine-molet._
Take a manchet of _French_ bread of a day old, chip it and cut a round hole in the top, save the peice whole, and take out the crumb, then make a composition of a boild or a rost Capon, minced and stampt with Almond past, muskefied bisket bread, yolks of hard Eggs, and some sweet Herbs chopped fine, some yolks of raw Eggs and Saffron, Cinamon, Nutmeg, Currans, Sugar, Salt, Marrow and Pistaches; fill the Loaf, and stop the hole with the piece, and boil it in a clean cloth in a pipkin, or bake it in an oven.
Then have some forc't Chickens flead, save the skin, wings, legs, and neck whole, and mince the meat, two Pigeons also forc't, two Chickens, two boned of each, and filled with some minced veal or mutton, with some interlarded Bacon, or Beef-suet, and season it with Cloves, Mace, Pepper, Salt, and some grated parmison or none, grated bread, sweet Herbs chopped small, yolks of Eggs, and Grapes, fill the skins, and stitch up the back of the skin, then put them in a deep dish, with some Sugar, strong broth, Artichocks, Marrow, Saffron, Sparrows, or Quails, and some boiled Sparagus.
For the garnish of the aforesaid dish, rost Turneps and rost Onions, Grapes, Cordons, and Mace.
Dish the forced loaf in the midst of the dish, the Chickens, and Pigeons round about it, and the Quails or small birds over all, with marrow, Cordons, Artichoks or Sparagus, Pine apple-seed, or Pistaches, Grapes, and Sweet-breads, and broth it on sippets.
_To boil a Chine of Veal, whole, or in peices._
Boil it in water, salt, or in strong broth with a faggot of sweet Herbs, Capers, Mace, Salt, and interlarded Bacon in thin slices, and some Oyster liquor.
Your Chines being finely boiled, have some stewed Oysters by themselves with some Mace and fine onions whole, some vinegar, butter, and pepper _&c._
Then have Cucumbers boiled by themselves in water and salt, or pickled Cucumbers boiled in water, and put in beaten Butter, and Cabbidge-lettice, boiled also in fair water, and put in beaten Butter.
Then dish your Chines on sippits, broth them, and put on your stewed Oysters, Cucumbers, Lettice, and parboil'd Grapes, Boclites, or slic't lemon, and run it over with beaten Butter.
_Chines of Veal otherways, whole, or in pieces._
Stew them, being first almost rosted, put them into a deep Dish, with some Gravy, some strong broth, white Wine, Mace, Nutmeg, and some Oyster Liquor, two or three slices of lemon and salt, and being finely stewed serve them on sippits, with that broth and slic't Lemon, Goosberries, and beaten Butter, boil'd Marrow, fried Spinage, _&c._ For variety Capers, or Sampier.
_Chines of Veal boiled with fruit, whole._
Put it in a stewing pan or deep dish, with some strong Broth, large Mace, a little White Wine, and when it boils scum it, then put some dates to, being half boil'd and Salt, some white Endive, Sugar, and Marrow.
Then boil some fruit by it self, your meat and broth being finely boil'd, Prunes and Raisons of the Sun, strain some six yolks of Eggs, with a little Cream, and put it in your broth, then dish it on sippets, your Chine, and garnish your dish with Fruit, Mace, Dates Sugar, slic't Lemon, and Barberries, _&c._
_Chines of Veal otherways._
Stew the whole with some strong broth, White-wine, and Caper-Liquor, slices of interlarded Bacon, Gravy, Cloves, Mace, whole Pepper, Sausages of minced Meat, without skins, or little Balls, some Marrow, Salt, and some sweet Herbs picked of all sorts, and bruised with the back of a Ladle; put them to your broth, a quarter of an hour before you dish your Chines, and give them a warm, and dish up your Chine on _French_ Bread, or sippits, broth it, and run it over with beaten butter, Grapes or slic't Lemon, _&c._
_Chines of Mutton boil'd whole, or Loins, or any Joint whole._
Boil it in a long stewing-pan or deep dish with fair water as much as will cover it, and when it boils cover it, being scumm'd first, and put to it some Salt, White-wine, and some Carrots cut like dice; your broth being half boil'd, strain it, blow off the fat, and wash away the dregs from your Mutton, wash also your pipkin, or stewing pan, and put in again your broth, with some Capers, and large Mace: stew your broth and materials together softly, and lay your Mutton by in some warm broth or dish, then put in also some sweet Herbs, chopped with Onions, boil'd among your broth.
Then have Colliflowers ready boil'd in water and salt, and put in beaten butter, with some boil'd marrow, then the Mutton and Broth being ready, dissolve two or three yolks of Eggs with White-Wine, Verjuyce or Sack; give it a walm, and dish up your meat on sippets finely carved, or _French_ bread in slices, and broth it; then lay on your Colliflowers, Marrow, Carrots, and Gooseberries, Barberries or Grapes, and run it over with beaten Butter.
Sometimes for variety, according to the seasons, you may use Turnips, Parsnips, Artichocks, Sparagus, Hopbuds or Colliflowers, boild in water and salt, and put in beaten Butter, Cabbidge sprouts, or Cabbidge, Lettice, and Chesnuts.
And for the thickning of this broth sometimes, take strained Almonds, with strong broth, and Saffron, or none.
Other-while grated bread, Yolks of hard Eggs, and Verjuyce, _&c._
_To boil a Chine, Rack, or Loin, of Mutton, otherways, whole, or in pieces._
Boil it in a stewing-pan or deep dish, with fair water as much as will cover it, and when it boils scum it, and put to it some salt; then being half boil'd, take up the meat, strain the broth, and blow off the fat, wash the stewing-pan and meat, then put in again the crag end of the Mutton, to make the broth good, and put to it some Mace.
Then a little before you take up your mutton, a handful of picked Parsley, chopped small, put it in the broth, with some whole marigold flowers, and your whole chine of mutton give a walm or two, then dish it up on sippets and broth it. Then have Raisins of the Sun and Currans boiled tender, lay on it, and garnish your Dish with Prunes, Marigold-flowers, Mace, Lemons, and Barberries, _&c._
Otherways without Fruit, boil it with Capers; and all manner of sweet herbs stripped, some Spinage, and Parsley bruised with the back of a Ladle, Mace, and Salt, _&c._
_To boil a Chine of Mutton, whole or in peices, or any other Joint._
Boil it in a fair glazed pipkin, being well scummed, put in a faggot of sweet herbs, as Time, Parsly, Sweet Marjoram, bound hard and stripped with your Knife, and put some Carrots cut like small dice, or cut like Lard, some Raisins, Prunes, Marigold-flowers, and salt, and being finely boiled down, serve it on sippits, garnish your dish with Raisins, Mace, Prunes, Marigold-flowers, Carrots, Lemons, boil'd Marrow, _&c._
Sometimes for change leave out Carrots and Fruit.
Use all as beforesaid, and add white Endive, Capers, Samphire, run it over with beaten Butter and Lemons.
_Barley Broth._
_Chine of Mutton or Veal in Barley Broth, Rack, or any Joynt._
Take a Chine or Knuckle, and joynt it, put it in a Pipkin with some strong broth, and when it boils, scum it, and put in some French Barley, being first boiled in two or three waters, with some large Mace, and a faggot of sweet herbs bound up, and close hard tied, some Raisins, Damask Prunes, and Currans, or no Prunes, and Marigold-flowers; boil it to an indifferent thickness, and serve it on sippets.
_Barley Broth otherwise._
Boil the Barley first in two waters, and then put it to a Knuckle of Veal, and to the Broth, Salt, Raisins, sweet Herbs a faggot, large Mace, and the quantity of a fine Manchet slic't together.
_Otherwise._
Otherways without Fruit: put some good Mutton-gravy, Saffron, and sometimes Raisins only.
_Chine or any Joint._
Otherways stew them with strong broth and White-Wine, put it in a Pipkin to them, scum it, and put to it some Oyster-Liquor, Salt, whole peper, and a bundle of sweet herbs well bound up, some Mace, two or three great Onions, some interlarded Bacon cut like dice, and Chesnuts, or blanched Almonds and Capers.
Then stew your Oysters by themselves with Mace, Butter, Time and two or three great Onions; sometimes Grapes.
Garnish your dish with Lemon-Peel, Oysters, Mace, Capers, and Chesnuts, _&c._
_Stewed Broth._
To make stewd Broth, the Meat most proper for it is.
_A Leg of Beef, Marrow-Bones, Capon, or a Loin or Rack of Mutton or a knuckle of Veal._
Take a Knuckle of Veal, a Joynt of Mutton, two Marrow bones, a Capon, boil them in fresh water, and scum them; then put in a bundle of sweet herbs well bound up or none, large Mace, whole Cinamon, and Ginger bruised, and put in a littlerag, the spice being a little bruised also. Then beat some Oatmeale, strain it, and put it to your broth, then have boil'd Prunes and Currans strained also and put it to your broth, with some whole raisons and currans; and boil not your fruit too much: then about half an hour before you dish your meat, put in a pint of Claret Wine and Sugar, then dish up your meat on fine sippits, and broth it.
Garnish your dish with Lemons, Prunes, Mace, Raisins, Currans, and Sugar.
You may add to the former Broth, Fennel-roots and Parsley roots tied up in a bundle.
_Stewed Broth new Fashion._
Otherways for change; take two Joints of Mutton, Rack and Loin, being half boiled and scummed, take up the Mutton, and wash away the dregs from it, strain the broth, and blow away the fat, then put to the broth in a pipkin a bundle of sweet Herbs bound up hard, and some Mace, and boil in it also a pound of Raisins of the Sun being strained, a pound of Prunes whole, with Cloves, Pepper, Saffron, Salt, Claret, and Sugar: stew all well together, a little before you dish out your broth, put in your meat again, give it a warm, and serve it on fine carved sippits.
_To stew a Loin or Rack of Mutton, or any Joint otherways._
I.
Chop a Loin into steaks, lay it in a deep dish or stewing pan, and put to it half a pint of Claret or White-Wine, as much water, some Salt and pepper, three or four whole Onions, a faggot of sweet Herbs bound up hard, and some large Mace; cover them close, and stew them leisurely the space of two hours, turn them now and then, and serve them on sippets.
II.
Otherways for change, being half boiled, chop some sweet Herbs and put to them, give them a walm, and serve them on sippets with scalded Goosberries, Barberries, Grapes, or Lemon.
III.
Otherways for variety, put Raisins, Prunes, Currans, Dates, and serve them with slic't Lemon and beaten butter.
IV.
Sometimes you may alter the Spice, and put Nutmeg, Cloves, and Ginger.
V.
Sometimes to the first plain way, put Capers, pickled Cucumbers, Samphire, _&c._
VI.
Otherways, stew it between two dishes with fair water, and when it boils, scum it, and put three or four blades of large Mace, gross Pepper, Salt, and Cloves, and stew them close covered two hours; then have Parsley picked, and some stripped Time, spinage, sorrel, savoury, and sweet Marjoram, chopped with some onions, put them to your meat, and give it a walm, with some grated bread amongst, dish them on carved sippets, and blow off the fat on the broth, and broth it: lay Lemon on it, and beaten butter, or stew it thus whole.
Before you put on your Herbs blow off the fat.
_To boil a Leg of Mutton divers ways._
I.
Stuff a Legg of Mutton with Parsley being finely picked, boil it in water and salt, and serve it in a fair dish with Parsley, and verjuyce in sawcers.
II.
Otherways: boil it in water and salt, not stuffed, and being boiled stuff it with Lemon in bits like square dice, and serve it also with the peels square, cut round about it make sauce with the Gravy and beaten butter, with Lemon and grated Nutmeg.
III.
Otherways, boil it in water and salt, being stuffed with parsley, and make sauce with large mace, gravy, chopped parsley, butter, vinegar, juice of orange, gooseberries, barberries, or grapes and sugar: serve it on sippets.
IV. _To boil a Leg of Mutton otherways._
Take a good leg of Mutton, and boil it in water and salt, being stuffed with sweet herbs chopped with some beef-suet, some salt and nutmeg.
Then being almost boiled, take up some of the broth into a Pipkin, and put to it some large mace, a few currans; a handful of French Capers, and a little sack, the yolks of three or four hard eggs, minced small, and some lemon cut like square dice; and being finely boil'd, dish it on carved sippets, broth it, and run it over with beaten butter, and lemon shred small.
V. _Otherways._
Take a fair leg of mutton, boil it in water and salt, and make sauce with gravy, some wine vinegar, salt-butter, and strong broth, being well stewed together with nutmeg.
Then dish up the leg of mutton on fine carved sippets, and pour on your broth.
Garnish your dish with barberries, capers, and slic't lemon.
Garnish the leg of mutton with the same garnish, and run it over with beaten butter, slic't lemon, and grated nutmeg.
_To boil a leg of Veal._
1. Stuff it with beef-suet, and sweet herbs chopped, nutmeg, salt, and boil it in fair water and salt.
Then take some of the broth, and put to some capers, currans, large mace, a piece of interlarded Bacon, two or three whole Cloves, pieces of pears, and some artichock-suckers boil'd and put in beaten butter, boil'd marrow and mace. Then before you dish it up, have sorrel, sage, parsley, time, sweet marjoram coursely minced, with two or three cuts of a knife, and bruised with the back of a ladle on a clean board, put it to your broth to make it green, and give it a warm or two. Then dish up the leg of veal on fine carved sippets, pour on the broth, and then your other materials, some Goosberries, or Barberries, beaten butter and lemon.
2. _To boil a Leg of Veal otherways._