Chapter 11

Take a fat surloin, or the fore-rib, and cut it into steaks half an inch thick, sprinkle it with salt, and broil it on the embers on a very temperate fire, and in an hour it will be broild enough; then serve it with gravy, and onions minced and boil'd in vinegar, and pepper, or juyce of oranges, nutmeg, and gravy, or vinegar, and pepper only, or gravy alone.

Or steep the beef in claret wine, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and broil them as the former, boil up the gravy where it was steeped, and serve it for sauce with beaten butter.

As thus you may also broil or toast the sweet-breads when they are new, and serve them with gravy.

_To Carbonado, broil or toast Beef in the Italian fashion._

Take the ribs, cut them into steaks & hack them, then season them with pepper, salt, and coriander-seed, being first sprinkled with rose-vinegar, or elder vinegar, then lay them one upon another in a dish the space of an hour, and broil or toast them before the fire, and serve them with the gravy that came from them, or juyce of orange and the gravy boild together. Thus also you may do heifers' udders, oxe-cheeks, or neats-tongues, being first tender broild or roasted.

In this way also you may make Scotch Collops in thin slices, hack them with your knife, being salted, and fine and softly broil'd serve them with gravy.

_Beef fried divers ways, raw or roasted._

1. Cut it in slices half an inch thick, and three fingers broad, salt it a little, and being hacked with the back of your knife, fry it in butter with a temperate fire.

2. Cut the other a quarter of an inch thick; and fry it as the former.

3. Cut the other collop to fry as thick as half a crown, and as long as a card: hack them and fry them as the former, but fry them not to hard.

Thus you may fry sweetbreads of the beef.

_Beef fried otherways, being roasted and cold._

Slice it into good big slices, then fry them in butter, and serve them with butter and vinegar, garnish them with fried parsley.

_Sauces for the raw fried Beef._

1. Beaten butter, with slic't lemon beaten together.

2. Gravy and butter.

3. Mustard, butter, and vinegar.

4. Butter, vinegar, minced capers, and nutmeg.

For the garnish of this fried meat, either parsley, sage, clary, onions, apples, carrots, parsnips, skirrets, spinage, artichocks, pears, quinces, slic't oranges, or lemons, or fry them in butter.

Thus you may fry sweet-breads, udders, and tongues in any of the foresaid ways, with the same sauces and garnish.

_To bake Beef in Lumps several ways, or Tongues in lumps raw, or Heifer Udders raw or boil'd._

Take the buttock, brisket, fillet, or fore-rib, cut it into gobbets as big as a pullets egg, with some equal gobbets of fat, season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and bake them with some butter or none.

Make the paste with a quarter of a pound of butter, and boiling liquor, boil the butter in the liquor, make up the paste quick and pretty stiff for a round Pie.

_To bake Beef, red-Deer-fashion in Pies or Pasties either Surloin, Brisket, Buttock, or Fillet, larded or not._

Take the surloin, bone it, and take off the great sinew that lies on the back, lard the leanest parts of it with great lard, being season'd with nutmegs, pepper, and lard three pounds; then have for the seasoning four ounces of pepper, four ounces of nutmegs, two ounces of ginger, and a pound of salt, season it and put it into the Pie: but first lay a bed of good sweet butter, and a bay-leaf or two, half an ounce of whole cloves, lay on the venison, then put on all the rest of the seasoning, with a few more cloves, good store of butter, and a bay-leaf or two, close it up and bake it, it will ask eight hours soaking, being baked and cold, fill it up with clarified butter, serve it, and a very good judgment shall not know it from red Deer. Make the paste either fine or course to bake it hot or cold; if for hot half the seasoning, and bake it in fine paste.

To this quantity of flesh you may have three gallons of fine flower heapt measure, and three pound of butter; but the best way to bake red deer, is to bake it in course paste either in pie or pasty, make it in rye meal to keep long.

Otherways, you may make it of meal as it comes from the mill, and make it only of boiling water, and no stuff in it.

_Otherways to be eaten cold._

Take two stone of buttock beef, lard it with great lard, and season it with nutmeg, pepper, and the lard, then steep it in a bowl, tray, or earthen pan, with some wine-vinegar, cloves, mace, pepper, and two or three bay-leaves: thus let it steep four or five days, and turn it twice or thrice a day: then take it and season it with cloves, mace, pepper, nutmeg, and salt; put it into a pot with the back-side downward, with butter under it, and season it with a good thick coat of seasoning, and some butter on it, then close it up and bake it, it will ask six or seven hours baking. Being baked draw it, and when it is cold pour out the gravy, and boil it again in a pipkin, and pour it on the venison, then fill up the pot with the clarified butter, _&c._

_To make minced Pies of Beef._

Take of the buttock of beef, cleanse it from the skins, and cut it into small pieces, then take half as much more beef-suet as the beef, mince them together very small, and season them with pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and salt; then have half as much fruit as meat, three pound of raisins, four pound of currans, two pound of prunes, _&c._ or plain without fruit, but only seasoned with the same spices.

_To make a Collar of Beef._

Take the thinnest end of a coast of beef, boil it a little and lay in pump water, & a little salt three days, shifting it once a day; the last day put a pint of claret wine to it, and when you take it out of the water let it lie two or three hours a draining; then cut it almost to the end in three slices, and bruise a little cochinel and a very little allum, and mingle it with a very little claret wine, colour the meat all over with it; then take a douzen of anchoves, wash and bone them, lay them on the beef, & season it with cloves, pepper, mace, two handfuls of salt, a little sweet marjoram, and tyme; & when you make it up, roull the innermost slice first, & the other two upon it, being very well seasoned every where and bind it up hard with tape, then put it into a stone pot a little bigger than the collar, and pour upon it a pint of claret wine, and half a pint of wine vinegar, a sprig of rosemary, and a few bay-leaves; bake it very well, and before it be quite cold, take it out of the pot, and you may keep it dry as long as you please.

_To bake a Flank of Beef in a Collar._

Take flank of beef, and lay it in pump water four days and nights, shift it twice a day, then take it out & dry it very well with clean cloaths, cut it in three layers, and take out the bones and most of the fat; then take three handfuls of salt, and good store of sage chopped very small, mingle them, and strew it between the three layers, and lay them one upon another; then take an ounce of cloves and mace, and another of nutmegs, beat them very well, and stew it between the layers of beef, roul it up close together, then take some packthred and tie it up very hard, put it in a long earthen pot, which is made of purpose for that use, tie up the top of the pot with cap paper, and set it in an oven; let it stand eight hours, when you draw it, and being between hot and cold, bind it up round in a cloth, tie it fast at both ends with packthred, and hang it up for your use.

Sometimes for variety you may use slices of bacon btwixt the layers, and in place of sage sweet herbs, and sometimes cloves of garlick. Or powder it in saltpeter four or five days, then wash it off, roul it and use the same spices as abovesaid, and serve it with mustard and sugar, or Gallendine.

_To stuff Beef with Parsley to serve cold._

Pick the parsley very fine and short, then mince some suet not to small, mingle it with the parsley, and make little holes in ranks, fill them hard and full, and being boiled and cold, slice it into thin slices, and serve it with vinegar and green parsley.

_To make Udders either in Pie or Pasty, according to these Figures._

Take a young Udder and lard it with great lard, being seasoned with nutmeg, pepper, cloves, and mace, boil it tender, and being cold wrap it in a caul of veal, but first season it with the former spices and salt; put it in the Pie with some slices of veal under it, season them, and some also on the top, with some slices of lard and butter; close it up, and being baked, liquor it with clarified butter. Thus for to eat cold; if hot, liquor it with white-wine, gravy and butter.

_To bake a Heifers Udder in the Italian fashion._

The Udder being boil'd tender, and cold, cut it into dice-work like small dice, and season them with some cloves, mace, cinamon, ginger, salt, pistaches, or pine-kernels, some dates, and bits of marrow; season the aforesaid materials lightly and fit, make your Pie not above an inch high, like a custard, and of custard-paste, prick it, and dry it in the oven, and put in the abovesaid materials; put to it also some custard-stuff made of good cream, ten eggs, and but three whites, sugar, salt, rose-water, and some dissolved musk; bake it and stick it with slic't dates, canded pistaches, and scrape fine sugar on it.

Otherways, boil the udder very tender, & being cold slice it into thin slices, as also some thin slices of parmisan & interlarded bacon, some sweet herbs chopt small, some currans, cinamon, nutmeg, sugar, rose-water, and some butter, make three bottoms of the aforesaid things in a dish, patty-pan, or pie, with a cut cover, and being baked, scrape sugar on it, or rice it.

_Otherways to eat hot._

Take an Udder boil'd and cold, slice it into thin slices, and season it with pepper, cinamon, nutmeg, ginger, and salt, mingle some currans among the slices and fill the pie; put some dates on the top, large mace, barberries, or grapes, butter, and the marrow of 2 marrow-bones, close it up and bake it, being baked ice it; but before you ice it, liquor it with butter, verjuyce and sugar.

_To stew Calves or Neats Feet._

Boil and blanch them, then part them in halves, and put them into a pipkin with some strong broth, a little powder of saffron, sweet butter, pepper, sugar, and some sweet herbs finely minced, let them stew an hour and serve them with a little grape verjuyce, stewed among them.

Neats feet being soust serve them cold with mustard.

_To make a fricase of Neats-Feet._

Take them being boild and blancht, fricase them with some butter, and being finely fried make a sauce with six yolks of eggs, dissolved with some wine-vinegar, grated nutmeg, and salt.

_Otherways._

First bone and prick them clean, then being boiled, blanched, or cold, cut them into gubbings, and put them in a frying-pan with a ladle-full of strong broth, a piece of butter, and a little salt; after they have fried awhile, put to them a little chopt parsley, green chibbolds, young spear-mint, and tyme, all shred very small, with a little beaten pepper: being almost fried, make a lear for them with the yolks of four or five eggs, some mutton gravy, a little nutmeg, and the juyce of a lemon wrung therein; put this lear to the neats feet as they fry in the pan, then toss them once or twice, and so serve them.

_Neats Feet larded, and roasted on a spit._

Take neats feet being boil'd, cold, and blanched, lard them whole, and then roast them, being roasted, serve them with venison sauce made of claret wine, wine-vinegar, and toasts of houshold bread strained with the wine through a strainer, with some beaten cinamon and ginger, put it in a dish or pipkin, and boil it on the fire, with a few whole cloves, stir it with a sprig of rosemary, and make it not too thick.

_To make Black Puddings of Beefers Blood._

Take the blood of a beefer when it is warm, put in some salt, and then strain it, and when it is through cold put in the groats of oatmeal well pic't, and let it stand soaking all night, then put in some sweet herbs, pennyroyal, rosemary, tyme, savoury, fennil, or fennil-seed, pepper, cloves, mace, nutmegs, and some cream or good new milk; then have four or five eggs well beaten, and put in the blood with good beef-suet not cut too small; mix all well together and fill the beefers guts, being first well cleansed, steeped, and scalded.

_To dress a Dish of Tripes hot out of the pot or pan._

Being tender boil'd, make a sauce with some beaten butter, gravy, pepper, mustard, and wine-vinegar, rub a dish with a clove of garlick, and dish them therein; then run the sauce over them with a little bruised garlick amongst it, and a little wine vinegar sprinkled over the meat.

_To make Bolonia-Sausages._

Take a good leg of pork, and take away all the fat, skins, and sinews, then mince and stamp it very fine in a wooden or brass mortar, weigh the meat, and to every five pound thereof take a pound of good lard cut as small as your little finger about an inch long, mingle it amongst the meat, and put to it half an ounce of whole cloves, as much beaten pepper, with the same quantity of nutmegs and mace finely beaten also, an ounce of whole carraway-seed, salt eight ounces, cocherel bruised with a little allom beaten and dissolved in sack, and stamped amongst the meat: then take beefers guts, cut of the biggest of the small guts, a yard long, and being clean scoured put them in brine a week or eight days, it strengthens and makes them tuff to hold filling. The greatest skill is in the filling of them, for if they be not well filled they will grow rusty; then being filled put them a smoaking three or four days, and hang them in the air, in some _Garret_ or in a _Cellar_, for they must not come any more at the fire; and in a quarter of a year they will be eatable.

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SECTION III.

_The A-la-mode ways of dressing the Heads of any Beasts._

_To boil a Bullocks Cheek in the Italian way._

Break the bones and steep the head in fair water, shift it, and scrape off the slime, let it lie thus in steep about twelve hours, then boil in fair water with some _Bolonia_ sausage and a piece of interlarded bacon; the cheeks and the other materials being very tender boiled, dish it up and serve it with some flowers and greens on it, and mustard in saucers.

_To stew Bullocks Cheeks._

Take the Cheeks being well soaked or steeped, spit and half roast them, save the gravy, and put them into a pipkin with some claret-wine, gravy, and some strong broth, slic't nutmeg, ginger, pepper, salt and some minced onions fried; stew it the space of two hours on a soft fire, and being finely stewed, serve it on carved sippets.

_Otherways._

Take out the bones, balls of the eyes, and the ruff of the mouth, steep it well in fair water and shift it often: being well cleans'd from the blood and slime, take it out of the water, wipe it dry, and season it with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, put them in an earthen pot one upon another, and put to them a pint of claret wine, a few whole cloves, a little fair water, and two three whole onions; close up the pot and bake it, it will ask six hours bakeing; being tender baked, serve it on toasts of fine manchet.

_Or thus._

Being baked or stewed, you may take out the bones and lay them close together, pour the liquor to them, and being cold slice them into slices, and serve them cold with mustard and sugar.

_To boil a Calves Head._

Take the head, skin, and all unflayed, scald it, and soak it in fair water a whole night or twelve hours, then take out the brains and boil them with some sage, parsley, or mint; being boil'd chop them small together, butter them and serve them in a dish with fine sippets about them, the head being finely cleansed, boil it in a clean cloth and close it up together again in the cloth; being boil'd, lay it one side by another with some fine slices of boil'd bacon, and lay some fine picked parsley upon it, with some borage or other flowers.

_To hash a Calves Head._

Take a calves head well steeped and cleansed from the blood and slime, boil it tender, then take it up and let it be through cold, cut it into dice-work, as also the brains in the same form, and some think slices interlarded bacon being first boil'd put some gooseberries to them, as also some gravy or juyce of lemon or orange, and some beaten butter; stew all together, and being finely stewed, dish it on carved sippets, and run it over with beaten butter.

_Otherways._

The head being boil'd and cold, slice is in to thin slices, with some onions and the brains in the same manner, then stew them in a pipkin with some gravy or strong mutton, broth, with nutmeg, some mushrooms, a little white wine and beaten butter; being well stewed together dish them on fine sippets, and garnish the meat with slic't lemon or barberries.

_To souce a Calves Head._

First scald it and bone it, then steep it in fair water the space of six hour, dry it with a clean cloth, and season it with some salt and bruised garlick (or none) then roul it up in a collar, bind it close, and boil it in white wine, water, and salt; being boil'd keep it in that souce drink, and serve it in the collar, or slice it, and serve it with oyl, vinegar, and pepper. This dish is very rare, and to a good judgment scarce discernable.

_To roast a Calves head._

Take a calves head, cleave it and take out the brains, skins, and blood about it, then steep them and the head in fair warm water the space of four or five hours, shift them three or four times and cleanse the head; then boil the brains, & make a pudding with some grated bread, brains, some beef-suet minced small, with some minced veal & sage; season the pudding with some cloves, mace, salt, ginger, sugar, five yolks of eggs, & saffron; fill the head with this pudding, then close it up and bind it fast with some packthread, spit it, and bind on the caul round the head with some of the pudding round about it, rost it & save the gravy, blow off the fat, and put to the gravy; for the sauce a little white-wine, a slic't nutmeg & a piece of sweet butter, the juyce of an orange, salt, and sugar. Then bread up the head with some grated bread; beaten cinamon, minced lemon peel, and a little salt.

_To roast a Calves Head with Oysters._

Split the head as to boil, and take out the brains washing them very well with the head, cut out the tongue, boil it a little, and blanch it, let the brains be parbol'd as well as tongue, then mince the brains and tongue, a little sage, oysters, beef-suet, very small; being finely minced, mix them together with three or four yolks of eggs, beaten ginger, pepper, nutmegs, grated bread, salt, and a little sack, if the brains and eggs make it not moist enough. This being done parboil the calves head a little in fair water, then take it up and dry it well in a cloth filling the holes where the brains and tongue lay with this farsing or pudding; bind it up close together, and spit it, then stuff it with oysters being first parboil'd in their own liquor, put them into a dish with minced tyme, parsley, mace, nutmeg, and pepper beaten very small; mix all these with a little vinegar, and the white of an egg, roul the oysters in it, and make little holes in the head, stuff it as full as you can, put the oysters but half way in, and scuer in them with sprigs of tyme, roast it and set the dish under it to save the gravy, wherein let there be oysters, sweet herbs minced, a little white-wine and slic't nutmeg. When the head is roasted set the dish wherein the sauce is on the coals to stew a little, then put in a piece of butter, the juyce of an orange, and salt, beating it up together: dish the head, and put the sauce to it, and serve it up hot to the table.

_To bake a Calves Head in Pye or Pasty to eat hot or cold._

Take a calves head and cleave it, then cleanse it & boil it, and being almost boil'd, take it up, & take it from the bones as whole as you can, when it is cold stuff it with sweet herbs, yolks of raw eggs, both finely minced with some lard or beef-suet, and raw veal; season it with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, brake two or three raw eggs into it; and work it together, and stuff the cheeks: the Pie being made, season the head with the spices abovesaid, and first lay in the bottom of the Pie some thin slices of veal, then lay on the head, and put on it some more seasoning, and coat it well with the spices, close it up with some butter, and bake it, being baked liquor it with clarified butter, and fill it up.

If you bake the aforesaid Pie to eat hot, give it but half the seasoning, and put some butter to it, with grapes, or gooseberries or barberries; then close it up and bake it, being baked liquor it with gravy and butter beat up thick together; with the juyce of two oranges.

_To make a Calves-foot Pye, or Neats-foot Pie, or Florentine in a dish of Puff-Paste; but the other Pye in short paste, and the Dish of Puff._

Take two pair of calves feet, and boil them tender & blanch them, being cold bone them & mince them very small, and season them with pepper, nutmeg, cinamon, and ginger lightly, and a little salt, and a pound of currans, a quarter of a pound of dates, slic't, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, with a little rose-water verjuyce, & stir all together in a dish or tray, and lay a little butter in the bottom of the Pie, & lay on half the meat in the Pie; then have the marrow of three marrow-bones, and lay that on the meat in the Pie, and the other half of the meat on the marrow, & stick some dates on the top of the meat & close up the Pie, & bake it, & being half bak't liquor it with butter, white-wine, or verjuyce, and ice it, and set in the oven again till it be iced, and ice it with butter, rose-water, and sugar.

Or you may bake them in halves with the bones in, and use for change some grapes, gooseberries, or barberries, with currans or without, and dates in halves, and large mace.

_To Stew a Calves-Head._

First boil it in fair water half an hour, then take it up and pluck it pieces, then put it into a pipkin with great oysters and some of the broth, which boil'd it, (if you have no stronger) a pint of white-wine or claret, a quarter of a pound of interlarded bacon, some blanched chesnuts, the yolks of three or four hard eggs cut into halves, sweet herbs minced, and a little horseradish-root scraped, stew all these an hour, then slice the brains (being parboil'd) and strew a little ginger, salt, and flower, you may put in some juyce of spinage, and fry them green with butter; then dish the meat, and lay the fried brains, oysters, chesnuts, half yolks of eggs, and sippet it, serve it up hot to the table.

_To hash a Calves Head._

Take a calves-head, boil it tender, and let it be through cold, then take one half and broil or roast it, do it very white and fair, then take the other half and slice it into thin slices, fry it with clarified butter fine and white, then put it in a dish a stewing with some sweet herbs, as rosemary, tyme, savory, salt, some white-wine or claret, some good roast mutton gravy, a little pepper and nutmeg; then take the tongue being ready boil'd, and a boil'd piece of interlarded bacon, slice it into thin slices, and fry it in a batter made of flower, eggs, nutmeg, cream, salt, and sweet herbs chopped small, dip the tongue & bacon into the batter, then fry them & keep them warm till dinner time, season the brains with nutmegs, sweet herbs minced small, salt, and the yolks of three or four raw eggs, mince all together, and fry them in spoonfuls, keep them warm, then the stewed meat being ready dish it, and lay the broild side of the head on the stewed side, then garnish the dish with the fried meats, some slices of oranges, and run it over with beaten butter and juyce of oranges.

_To boil A Calves Head._