Part 2

5th round—Work in double crochet, that is, putting the needle into both edges of the previous round, and working a plain stitch.

Work 14 rounds more as the last.

20th round—4 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain. Repeat.

21st round—5 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the 4 chain. Repeat. Join on the colored wool.

22nd and 23rd rounds—Work as the 21st round. Join on the white wool.

24th and 25th rounds—Work as the 21st round.

26th round—1 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the 5 chain. Repeat, and fasten off.

THE SOLE.

With the Colored wool make a chain of 9 stitches.

1st row—Miss 1, 2 plain in one stitch, 7 plain, turn back.

Now work the rest of the sole in double crochet, which being worked backwards and forwards, will have a different effect from the leg.

2nd row—2 plain in the first stitch, the rest plain. Work 8 rows more the same as the last. There will now be 18 stitches.

11th and 12th rows—Plain.

13th row—Miss 1, the rest plain. Work 5 rows more as the last. Then 4 rows plain.

23rd row—2 plain in one, the rest plain. Work 7 rows more as the last.

31st and 32nd rows—Plain.

33rd row—Miss 1, the rest plain. Work 5 rows more the same.

39th row—Miss 1, the rest plain to the last 2 stitches, then miss 1, 1 plain.

Work 3 rows more the same, and fasten off. Sew the sole to the front, and finish with a bow and ribbon run into the open row at the leg.

LADY’S STOCKING.

IN RIBBED KNITTING.

_Materials—5 ounces of Andalusian, Eider, or Welsh Yarn, 5 Knitting Needles No. 18 Bell gauge. The following directions will make a full size stocking, viz., 15 inches round the top of the leg, 26 inches from the top to the heel, and 10½ inches long in the foot. By using Nos. 19 or 17 Needles a size smaller or larger can be made._ See Page 13.

Commence at the top of the leg, and to make the foundation strong, the wool should be used double in casting on the stitches. Cast on 42 stitches on each of two needles, and 36 on the other two; keeping the fifth for making it round.

1st round—Pearl 3 stitches and knit 3 stitches plain alternately all round, in all 156 stitches. Continue the same until it is 13 inches in length.

Always pearl or knit the same stitches throughout the leg.

TO SHAPE THE LEG—1st round—Pearl the 3 first stitches; then to decrease, slip 1, knit 1, and turn the slipped stitch over; knit 1 plain; pearl 3 and knit 3, to within 2 stitches of the end, and decrease again by knitting them together.

Knit 8 rounds without decreasing.

Repeat the same, decreasing 2 stitches every 9th round, until it is reduced to 120 stitches.

In these rounds the 3 first stitches are always to be pearled; but the few stitches immediately following will vary, on account of the decreased stitches altering the number to be knitted or pearled. After the decreasing is worked three times, the stitches will require to be pearled together until the rib is decreased.

When the work is reduced to 120 stitches, sufficient rounds are to be worked without shaping to make it 23 inches in length from the top.

TO FORM THE HEEL—1st row—Knit 1, pearl 1, knit 28; turn back, so as to work on the 30 stitches, leaving the rest of the stitches unworked.

2nd row—Slip 1, pearl 29; then pearl 27 off the next needle; in all 57 stitches; turn back, leaving 63 stitches on the other needles for the Instep.

3rd row—Slip the 1st stitch, knit, 27, pearl 1, knit 28; turn back.

4th row—Slip 1, pearl 56 stitches; turn back. Repeat the 2 last rows 25 times more.

TO ROUND THE HEEL—47th row—Slip 1, knit 21, knit 2 together, knit 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back, leaving 22 stitches on the other needle.

48th row—Slip 1, pearl 12, turn back, leaving 20 stitches—slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back; † slip 1, pearl 14—that is, 2 stitches on those left unworked, turn back—slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back. Repeat from † 9 times more, always knitting or pearling 2 stitches more each time, so as every row to use two of the stitches left; when finished, there will be 33 stitches.

THE INSTEP—Take another needle and raise 26 stitches from the selvedge formed by the rows of the left side of the Heel; then with a second needle work across the Instep (pearling 3 and knitting 3 as before, 10 times); then pearl 3; and with a third needle raise 26 stitches from the right selvedge of the Heel; and with a fourth needle knit the 33 stitches of the Heel. It will now be 148 stitches round.

1st round—Work across the instep. (Pearl 3 and knit 3, alternately as before, 10 times) then pearl 3; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 79 plain; then knit 2 together, knit 1 plain.

2nd round—(Pearl 3 and knit 3, 10 times), pearl 3, knit the rest of the round all plain.

Repeat these two rounds 16 times more, knitting two stitches less at the stitches marked in italics each time. Then knit four inches the same as the 2nd round.

THE TOE—1st round—Knit 2 together, knit 49 plain, knit 2 together, knit 4 plain. Repeat once more to finish the round. 2nd round—All plain.

Repeat the last 2 rounds, knitting 2 plain less each time instead of 49, until it is reduced to a few stitches. Then double the work, and knitting a stitch off each needle together, cast them off.

ZOUAVE VESTE.

IN TRICOT ECOSSAIS, WITH TATTING EDGE.—SEE FRONTISPIECE.

_Materials—6 ounces of Crimson, Mauve, Grey, or Violet 4-ply fleecy, and Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 4 Bell gauge. For the Border 2 skeins of White Berlin Wool, a large Shuttle, and round mesh No. 1 Bell gauge._

THE BACK.

Commence with 7 chain and work as directed for the Back of the Crossover, page 9, ending with the 4 plain rows.

TO SHAPE THE RIGHT SIDE.

1st row—Continue working from the last row of the back. Raise 28 loops, leaving the rest unworked for the other side. Work Back on these 28 loops.

2nd row—Raise all the loops of the last row to within 3 loops of the end, then to decrease take 2 loops together as one stitch, raise the last loop. Work back.

3rd row—Same as 2nd row.

4th row—Raise all the loops of the last row. Work back to within 4 loops, of the end, keep the 5th loop on the needle, and instead of finishing the row, put the needle into the next stitch to the _left_, and raise a loop so as to commence the next row.

5th row—Continue raising all the stitches of the last row. Work back all the loops on the needle.

6th row—Raise 4 loops, but in raising the 5th loop, put the needle into the next stitch of the lower row, which is under the one ordinarily used. This will prevent any space showing where the last row was turned. Raise the rest of the row as usual. Work back.

7th row—Raise all the loops without shaping. Work back.

Repeat the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th rows, 5 times more.

28th row—Raise a loop, increase a loop, then raise all the loops to within 4 loops of the end, decrease by taking 2 loops together, and raise the last two loops. Work back.

29th row—Raise all the loops to within 4 of the end, then decrease, and raise the last two loops. Work back.

Repeat the last two rows 10 times more. Then work 5 rows, leaving 2 loops unworked at the right end of the needle each time; which finishes the right side. The last row is to be attached to the right side of the first 10 rows of the back after the Border is worked.

THE LEFT SIDE.

1st row—Commence at the stitches of the Back, and, leaving 9 stitches for the neck, raise the rest of the row—in all 28 loops. Work back.

2nd and 3rd rows—Work as usual, decreasing at the beginning of each row.

4th row—Raise all the loops to within 4 stitches of the end of the last row, and, leaving them unfinished. Work back.

5th row—Raise all the loops of the last row, then raise the 4 loops of the lower row. Work back.

6th and 7th rows—Work the rows without shaping.

Repeat as the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th rows, 5 times more.

28th row—Raise a loop, then decrease. Raise all the loops to within 2 of the end. Increase a loop, and raise the 2 loops. Work back.

29th row—Raise a loop, decrease, then raise all the loops to the end.

Repeat the last two rows 10 times more; then work 5 rows, leaving 2 stitches at the left side of each row, and fasten off. After the Border is worked, sew it to the left side of the back.

THE SASH.

Work as the Lappets of the Hood, page 4, commencing with the same color as the Veste, and using the white wool for the Edge.

Make the Scallop Trimming with the white wool, and for the Joining use the same color as the Veste.

THE BORDER.

For the Outside, commence with the white wool at the last stitch of the left side of the Veste, so as to work on the selvedge formed by the end of the rows, putting the needle sufficiently deep in the work to correspond with the edge row of the Sash: work 3 plain crochet stitches; * then 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, and 1 treble again; these 3 treble stitches are all to be worked in the same stitch of the Veste, then work 7 plain; and repeat again from *, continuing the same all round to the opposite end at the right side of the Veste. As the 3 treble stitches should come at the centre of the back, it will be necessary to increase in rounding the point.

Make sufficient of the Scallop Trimming to go along this row, and join it the same as the Sash. For the inner Border, commence at the last stitch of the right side of the Veste, and work as the outer border. The last row of each of the sides is then to be sewn to the back under the Border, and the Sash ends attached on the wrong side. The Veste should be fastened with buttons down the front.

KNITTED MUFFATEE.

FOR A GENTLEMAN.

_Materials—1 ounce of White and 6 skeins of colored Single Berlin Wool; pair of Walker’s knitting pins No. 12 Bell gauge._ See page 13.

Commence with the Colored wool, and cast on 48 stitches.

1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, then (pearl 2 stitches and knit 2 alternately to the end).

Knit 5 rows more the same.

Join on the white, and knit 6 rows. Then 3 rows of the colored.

For the Centre, knit 36 rows of white—then 3 rows of coloured—6 rows of white, and 6 rows of coloured.

For the Lining, knit 60 rows of white. Cast off. Sew the sides together, then double the cuff and sew the first and last rows together.

ROUND SHETLAND VEIL.

KNITTING.

_Materials—One ounce of Shetland Wool and a pair of Knitting Pins No. 14 Bell gauge._

THE CENTRE.—Cast on 49 stitches loosely with two pins.

1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3 plain, make 1, knit 3 all together. Repeat from * to the last 5 stitches, then make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 plain.

2nd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, * make 1, 2 together, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 1; repeat from *, and at the end knit 2 plain instead of 1.

3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 plain; * make 1, 2 together, make 1, 3 together, make 1, knit 1. Repeat from * to within 5 stitches of the end, then make 1, knit only 2 together, make 1 and knit 3 plain.

4th row—Make 1, 2 together; * make 1, knit 1, make 1, 2 together, knit 1, 2 together. Repeat from * to the last 3 stitches, then make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 plain.

The work will now be increased 6 stitches. Commence again at the 1st row and repeat these four rows until it is the required size; then knit three rows plain and cast off.

Make sufficient of the Diamond Border to edge it.

DIAMOND EDGING.

Commence by casting on 12 stitches.

1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. The 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th rows are all worked as the 1st row, and are therefore not given.

2nd row—Make 1, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, knit 4, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

4th row—Make 1, knit 5, make 1, 2 together, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

6th row—Make 1, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, 2 together, knit 2, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

8th row—Make 1, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 3 (make 1, 2 together and knit 1, three times).

10th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, 3 together, make 1 knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

12th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, (2 together twice), make 1, knit 4, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

14th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, then 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

16th row—Make 1, 3 together, make 1, knit 6, make 1, 2 together, knit 1. Commence again at the 1st row. When sufficient is made it is to be sewn to the Veil.

THE “EMPIRE” PETTICOAT.

TRICOT ECOSSAIS.—SEE FRONTISPIECE.

_Materials—1lb. of Scarlet or Mauve 4-ply Fleecy; also 2 ounces of Black and 1 ounce of White Wool. Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 5 Bell gauge._

FIRST STRIPE.

Commence with the Scarlet Wool, and make a chain of 33 stitches.

Work 2 rows of Tricot Ecossais as described at page 28, then join on the Black Wool to finish the last stitch.

3rd row—Black—Raise the 1st loop, then increase a loop, raise 13 loops; then decrease by taking 3 loops on the needle and working as one stitch. Raise 13 loops, increase again, and raise the two last loops. Work back. All the rows are worked in this manner, that is, increasing at the beginning and end, and decreasing in the centre.

4th row—Work as the last row.

Then with the White Wool work a row as the last.

Black 2 rows.

Scarlet 10 rows.

18th row—Raise the 1st loop and increase as before. Raise 11 loops, then decrease by taking 2 loops together; decrease again, taking 3 loops together as usual; then decrease a third time, taking 2 together. Raise 11 loops. Increase and raise 2 loops. There will now be only 31 loops. Work back.

Work 10 rows more as the 3rd row, but raising 12 loops instead of 13 on each side of the centre decreased stitches.

29th row—Work as the 18th row, but raising 10 loops instead of 11 loops on each side the decreased stitches.

Continue working 10 rows as the 3rd row, and then a row decreasing 3 times in the same manner as the 18th row, until the work is reduced to 23 stitches, when it will be about 30 inches in length.

As the number of stitches decreases each time the 18th row is worked, a less number of stitches must be raised on each side of the centre.

To finish the Stripe work 3 rows, decreasing in the centre and leaving 2 stitches unworked at each side; then work back to the right side, and end with a row of single crochet.

For an ordinary sized Petticoat 10 stripes will be required. The last stripes should not be joined to the top.

THE EDGE—With the Black Wool commence at the top of the left side of a Stripe, and work down the selvedge a row of plain Crochet, putting the needle into the open spaces formed by the increased stitches. This row should be worked loosely. Continue this row across the foundation, and up the right side of the Stripe. Work the other Stripes the same.

THE JOINING ROW—With the White Wool commence at the black stitch even with the white row of the stripe; work a single stitch on the stripe. Take a second stripe, put the needle into the corresponding stitch of it, work another single stitch. Continue working a single stitch alternately on each stripe, until they are joined; the needle should be put in both edges of the black row. The first four rows of the stripes are to be sewn together with Scarlet and Black Wool.

THE BORDER—With the White Wool commence at the black row of the foundation, and work a row of 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain; putting the needle in the same scarlet stitches as the black row, so as to cover the alternate stitches of it. Repeat all round.

With the Scarlet Wool work 3 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain in each chain stitch of the white row.

TRICOT ECOSSAIS.

A CHAIN ROW is always made for the foundation of the work, the same as in Crochet, and after the number of chain stitches are made, as given in each direction, the last loop is to be kept on the needle.

1st row—still keeping the loop on the needle—miss the 1st chain stitch, put the needle into the next chain stitch, take up the wool on the needle and draw it through in a loop; * keep the two loops on the needle, put the needle into the next chain stitch and repeat from * to the end of the chain. This is termed “raising” loops or stitches, and there should be as many loops on the needle as the foundation chain.

To “Work back”—Take up the wool on the needle and bring it through the last loop on it, * then take up the wool again and bring it through the two next loops, as shown at the left side of the Section. Repeat from * to the end.

In raising the loops for the 2nd row the needle is to be put into the upright loops of the previous row, as shown in the two first loops at the right side of the section.

To “Increase”—The third loop on the needle is an increased stitch, which is made by putting the needle between two upright loops and bringing the wool through as usual.

In counting the loops always reckon the number on the needle, including the one at the edge.

* * * * *

To insure correctness in the size of the Needles used in Mdlle. Riego’s publications, a drawing of the Gauge by which they are numbered, is now given. All Knitting Needles are measured in the circle close to the numbers. Tricot Needles the same, gauging by the stem.

H. WALKER,

_Manufacturer to the Queen of Pins, Fish Hooks, Hooks & Eyes, Hair Pins, Thimbles, &c._

WAREHOUSE—GRESHAM STREET, LONDON, E.C. MANUFACTORY—ALCESTER.

H. WALKER’S NEEDLES have long enjoyed great popularity with those who value really good Needles. They have been greatly altered by Patented Improvements of a most important character.

H. WALKER’S PATENT PENELOPE CROCHETS have had so many imitations, it is necessary to repeat the request that all who wish for the true Needle will see that the word “Penelope” is on the handle.

The new Patent Uncotopic Handles to the Penelope Needles have the word “Uncotopic” on each, and persons who would avoid disappointment will please to observe these trade marks. The Uncotopic Handle keeps the Needle at all times in the true position for work, and is invaluable alike to a beginner, or to an accomplished worker.

The following is from “_The Engineer_,” of May 4, 1859:—“Difficult as it may appear to entirely change the structure of so small an article, the figures above show what may be done even with the eye of a Needle.

“Fig. 1. A, is a ridge or slightly raised part before the eye; B, the eye; C, a groove beyond the eye into which the thread falls.

“Fig. 2 is a side view of the part A, B, C, showing the thread recessed as in sewing, when the usual pressure of the thimble drives the Needle with its thread at once through the cloth, affording relief of no ordinary character to the tailor or seampstress, and saving much of their time. We have submitted these Needles to a good judge of such articles, who has declared them superior to all others, not only as above stated, but particularly also with relation to facility of threading.”

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MANUFACTURE THE FOLLOWING:—

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NOTICE.

_Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere begs most gratefully to thank her correspondents for the kind letters she has received during sorrow and illness, and trusts that any omissions on her part will be excused now the cause is known._

_She has also to inform them that for the future all her registered and copyright designs will be signed with her surname in full, she having hitherto used only the first as more convenient for business; but as she has reason to believe that there has been a recent infringement and use of her name, it has become advisable for her to vary her signature, otherwise she cannot so readily detect fraud._

_Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere must caution ladies against purchasing any of her designs without the whole signature, as she is informed by law it is against the purchaser only she must proceed in case it should be necessary to assert her rights._

Mlle. Riego’s ONLY Establishment is at 2, Old Quebec Street, London.

s. d.

The Complete Tatting Book 1 0 The Instruction Tatting Book 1 0 The Exhibition Tatting Book 1 0 The Royal Tatting Book 1 0 The Lace Tatting Book 1 0 The Etoile Tatting Book 1 0 The Pearl Tatting Book 1 0 The 6th Series Crochet Book 1 0 The Simple Tatting Book 0 6 The 18th Series Crochet Book 1 0 The 10th and 17th Series 1 6 The Useful Knitting Book 1 0 Winter Book for 1862 1 0 “Melange de Laine” 1 0 “Tricot Ecossais” 1 0 The Andalusian Knitting and Netting 1 0 Coloured Antimacassars 1 0 Tatting Edgings 0 6 La Mode Winter 0 6 The Book of Siberian Wool 0 6 The Child’s Winter Knitting 0 6

Entered at Stationers’ Hall.]

[The Author reserves the right of Translation.