Part 1

THE

ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK.

BY

MLLE. RIEGO DE LA BRANCHARDIERE.

BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT ARTISTE IN NEEDLEWORK TO H. R. H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES.

LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO.; AND ALL THE BERLIN WAREHOUSES.

1867.

Price One Shilling.

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THE ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK.

OPERA HOOD.

IN CROCHET, ORNAMENTED WITH TATTING.

See the Frontispiece.

_Materials—16 skeins of Pink and the same of White single Berlin Wool; 3 skeins of White Floss Silk. Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 5 Bell gauge._

_The Tatting—A large Shuttle, and for the pearl loops a short mesh, which measures 1¾ inches in circumference, and another 1¼ round, are required._

THE CROWN.

Commence with the White wool and the Tricot needle; make a chain of 15 stitches. The whole of the stitches should be worked very loosely.

1st row—Miss the last 4 chain stitches, and work a plain crochet stitch into the next stitch of the foundation chain; then (make 2 chain, miss a stitch of the foundation and work 1 plain crochet stitch, 5 times); turn back.

2nd row—Make 2 chain, miss 2, and work 1 plain stitch in the 2 chain of the last row; repeat to the end, then to Increase work 2 chain and 1 plain again in the last loop; turn back.

Work 7 rows more, the same as the last, when it will be increased to 14 loops. It should measure seven inches across without stretching.

Work 9 rows of the same stitch, but omitting the increased loops at the end of the rows.

19th row—To decrease, miss the last stitch and work 1 plain in the last loop of chain; then 2 chain and 1 plain as before, to the end.

Work 8 rows more as the last. Then work a row of 1 chain and 1 plain in each loop.

Join on the Colored wool, and work a row of plain crochet all round, working two stitches to the side of each of the white rows.

For the second round—Work 4 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain. Repeat and fasten off.

Use the Floss Silk and an Embroidery Needle. Work an ordinary Cross stitch over each of the plain stitches of the Crown, putting the needle into the open spaces.

THE TATTING FLOWERS.

1st CIRCLE—Wind the colored and White Wool together, and fill the Shuttle with it, using the doubled wool as one thread.

Commence a loop, work a double stitch; then using the largest mesh for the pearl loops, work (1 pearl and 1 double alternately 16 times); draw close; leaving a small circle in the centre about the size of the 2nd mesh, and knotting the ends firmly together, cut them off.

2nd CIRCLE—Use the colored wool doubled, and the second sized mesh. Commence a loop, work 1 double, then (1 pearl and 1 double 12 times); draw close and fasten off.

3rd CIRCLE—Use the White Floss, and for the pearl loops the Tricot needle can be used. Commence a loop; work 1 double, (1 pearl and 2 double 8 times); draw close. Fasten off.

Place the second circle over the first, and the silk one in the centre, sewing them together with the silk, then attach them to the crown about an inch from the edge of it.

Make nine Flowers for the Crown and four for the Lappets.

THE LAPPETS.

Work with the White wool and Tricot needle. Make a chain of 11 stitches.

1st row—Raise 11 loops in the ordinary Tricot stitch, and work back, see page 28.

2nd row—Raise a loop, Increase a loop, raise 2 loops; then to _decrease_, put the needle into the three next stitches, and bring the wool through them all. Raise the 2 next loops as before. Increase again, and raise the 2 last loops. There will be 11 loops on the needle. Work back as before. Work 8 rows more as the last.

11th row—Raise the 1st stitch and increase a loop as before; then decrease the two next stitches, taking them together as one stitch; take the next three loops together; then take the two next loops together as one stitch, then Increase a loop as before, and raise the two last loops. There will now be 9 loops. Work back.

12th row—Raise a loop and increase as before; raise the next loop, then take 3 together, raise a loop, increase, raise 2 loops. Work back. Work 8 rows more as the last.

21st row—Raise a loop and increase as before; then put the needle into the next 5 loops, and bring the wool through them all as one stitch; increase again and raise 2 loops: there will now be 7 loops. Work back.

22nd row—Raise a loop and increase; then take the next 3 loops together; increase and raise 2 loops. Work back. Work 20 rows more as the last, or any length preferred.

THE EDGE—With the colored wool, work loosely a row of plain crochet all round the lappet, putting the needle into the spaces formed by the increased stitches. 2 chain and an extra plain stitch should be made at the two ends and centre of the first white row.

Make sufficient of the Scallop Trimming, page 11, to go round the Lappet, using the colored wool doubled, and the smaller mesh for the pearl loops. For the crochet row the wool is to be single.

THE JOINING—work with the Floss Silk, which had better be used double. Commence at the colored row, round the Lappet, and work a plain crochet stitch; then take out the needle and put it into the last stitch of the Scallop Trimming, taking both edges of the plain row, bring the Floss through; then work another plain stitch on the lappet, taking both edges, continue joining and working a plain stitch alternately.

Work a row of Cross stitches with the Floss silk up the centre.

Make the other Lappet the same, sew them to the crown and attach two flowers at each side.

MAZARIN CAPE.

_Materials—For the Cape, 4 ounces of single or double Wool, and for the Trimmings 3 skeins of double Berlin Wool of a color which contrasts; Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 7 Bell gauge, a large Tatting Shuttle, and a round Mesh No. 1 Bell gauge._

This Cape is worked in open Crochet ornamented with Tatting, see the Frontispiece.

It will be greatly improved if Floss Silk is introduced as described in the Opera Hood. The centre should then be white with colored Trimming, but any two colors that contrast will look well, as Pearl Grey with Crimson, Mauve with Amber, or Violet with Grey.

THE DIVISIONS.

Commence with the Wool for the centre, and make 15 chain stitches.

1st row—Miss the last 4 chain and work a plain crochet stitch in the next stitch; (then 2 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain, 5 times); turn back. It should measure 3 inches in length without stretching. If single Wool is used it should be worked loosely.

2nd row—Work 3 chain, miss 1 and 1 treble in the last 2 chain; then 2 chain, miss 2 and 1 plain in each loop of 2 chain to the end; turn back.

3rd row—Work the same as the 2nd row.

4th row—3 chain, miss 1, 1 treble in the last loop of chain; then 2 chain, miss 2, and 1 plain as before to the end; and to Increase a loop work 3 chain and 1 plain in the same loop as the last plain stitch; turn back.

5th row—Work the same as the 4th row.

Repeat the last 4 rows 6 times more. As the work will increase two loops every four rows there will now be 20 loops. It is intended that the work should be longer at the sides than in the centre of the division.

30th row—3 chain, miss 1 and 1 treble; then 2 chain, miss 2 and 1 plain as before, for 7 loops, then work 5 loops, making only 1 chain instead of 2 chain; then work 7 loops with 2 chain, and increase in the last loop.

31st row—3 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, then work 7 loops with 2 chain; 6 loops with 1 chain, and 7 loops of 2 chain; then increase at the end.

32nd row—Work 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain in each loop of chain to the end; then 1 chain and 1 plain in the last loop. Work 2 rows more as the last, and fasten off.

Work five Divisions more the same, and sew the slanting sides of them together. Three rounds of 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain, should be worked along the neck, then commencing at the right point work a plain row up the front, across the neck, and down the other side.

THE TRIMMING IN TATTING.

THE ROSETTE—Fill the Shuttle with the Wool and using the mesh for the pearl loops, commence a loop, work 1 double, (then make a pearl and work a double stitch alternately for 7 loops); draw close. Keep the Wool at the back and join it to the centre pearl.

Work another Rosette the same, and join it to the same pearl of the previous Rosette as before; then keep the Wool as the back and join to the centre pearl of the last Rosette. Repeat the last Rosette until sufficient is made for the sides and border, to which it is to be attached by sewing it with the same colored Wool.

The Rosettes down the Divisions are made in the same manner, but as they are to be smaller, only 5 pearls instead of 7 pearls are to be made for each Rosette.

THE BALLS—Take a yard of the Wool the same color as the Tatting, split it three times, and wind it round the tops of the first and second fingers, take it off the fingers and wind a piece of fine thread about three times very tightly round the middle of the wool, knotting the ends together, also tie in a piece of the wool not split, to form the thread to attach the Balls to the work; cut the wool at each end, rounding it into the shape.

Make sufficient of these Balls to go all round the Edge, placing them about two inches apart.

RETICULE MUFF.

IN TRICOT ECOSSAIS.—SEE FRONTISPIECE.

_Materials—4 skeins of Scarlet and 2 of Black double Berlin Wool, or 4-ply Fleecy, Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 6 Bell gauge._

Commence the Outside with the Black wool, and make a chain of 34 stitches. See Instructions for this stitch page 28.

1st row—Miss the last chain stitch. * Put the needle into the next chain stitch, and bring the wool through it in a loop. Repeat from * until there are 34 loops on the needle. Then join on the scarlet wool, and “Work Back.” Join on the black wool.

2nd row—Work with the Black wool, and raise all the loops of the last row; then join on the scarlet wool and Work back.

Repeat as the last row until 16 inches are worked; then, to shape the Flap or part which falls over the pocket, work the same stitch, but decreasing at the beginning and end of every row by taking two stitches together until it is reduced to a point.

THE LINING.

Work with the Scarlet wool and make a piece the same as the outside; when finished it is to be made round by joining the foundation row to the one before the flap is begun, so as to leave it on the outside.

For the Pocket take a piece of merino or silk the length of the muff, and about 8 inches deep double it, and sew the double part to the Lining 4 inches below the joining; then sew one edge of the silk to the joining. Wadding is to be placed between the lining and the outside, which is now to be sewn at the sides and round the flap, but the foundation row is to be joined to the other edge of the pocket. Finish with a Fur Trimming or Border, as given in the Winter Book, 1862, round the end and flap, which must be secured with a loop and button.

CROSSOVER SHAWL.

IN TRICOT ECOSSAIS, WITH TATTING BORDER.

See the Frontispiece.

_Materials—For the Tricot, 6 ounces of Mauve, Blue, or Magenta 4-ply Fleecy, Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 3 Bell gauge. Berlin Wool 8-ply can be used, or 3-ply Fleecy._

_For the Border, a skein of Black and two of White double Berlin Wool, a large Shuttle, and a Mesh No. 1 Bell gauge._

THE BACK.

Commence with the Colored Fleecy, and the Tricot Needle. Make a chain of 7 stitches.

1st row—Miss the last chain stitch. * Put the needle into the next stitch, and bring the wool through in a loop. Repeat from * until there are 7 loops on the needle. Work back. See Instructions, page 28, at the end of the book.

2nd row—Raise the 7 loops of the 1st row, and work back.

3rd row—Raise a loop, then Increase a loop by putting the needle between the upright stitches; Raise 3 loops as usual; then Increase another loop; raise the 2 last loops. Work back.

4th row—Raise a loop, Increase, raise 5 loops, increase again, raise 2 loops. Work back.

5th Row—Raise a loop, increase, raise 7 loops, increase again, raise 2 loops. Work back.

6th row—Raise a loop, increase, then raise all the loops to within two of the end; increase again, and raise the two last loops. Work back. The work should be loose. As a guide for the size of the stitch, the last row should measure 4 inches across, and these 6 rows 2½ inches in depth.

Work 5 rows more the same as the 6th row.

12th row—Raise all the loops without increasing, and work back.

Work 4 rows as the 6th row, that is increasing 2 stitches each row, and then work every 5th row without increasing until 37 rows in all are worked, when there will be 65 stitches.

Work 4 rows without shaping. If for an extra size a few more rows may be added here, and also at the plain rows on each shoulder. This finishes the back.

TO SHAPE THE RIGHT FRONT—1st row—Raise all the loops of the last row until there are 28 on the needle. Work back.

2nd and 3rd rows—Raise all the loops to the two last, then decrease by taking these loops together as one stitch. Work back.

4th row—Raise a loop, then decrease as before, raise the rest to the end. Work back.

Then work 4 rows plain without shaping.

Repeat as the 4th row, and the 4 rows plain after it, 5 times more; that is decreasing a stitch at the beginning of every 5th row; the left selvedge should be quite straight.

Then to shape the end, decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of every 3rd row, until it is reduced to a point.

TO SHAPE THE LEFT FRONT—1st row—Commence at the stitches left at the back, and leaving 9 for the neck, raise the remaining 28 loops as usual. Work back.

2nd and 3rd rows—Work 2 rows, decreasing a loop at the beginning of each row. All the rows must now be kept straight at the beginning.

Work 4 rows plain, and at the end of every 5th row decrease a stitch, in all 6 times. Then decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of every 3rd row until it is reduced to a point.

THE TATTING BORDER.

THE DOT—Fill the Shuttle with the White Wool, and use the Tricot Needle for the pearl loops. Commence a loop, work 3 double stitches, then (1 pearl loop and 3 double stitches twice); draw quite close and reverse the work.

Commence the next Dot close to the last and repeat the dot, reversing them after each is made. Work sufficient to go all round the Tricot.

THE EDGE—Work with the Black Wool, and commencing at the last pearl of the Dots, crochet a plain stitch in it; then work another plain stitch in the next pearl of the same Dot, and missing the Dot which turns down, work a plain stitch in the 1st pearl of the next dot but one. Repeat working a plain stitch in the two pearls of every other dot.

THE JOINING—Work with the Black wool, and commencing at the left corner of the Tricot, work a plain crochet stitch between the rows of it; then, to join the Tatting, take out the needle, put it into a pearl of a Dot, and bringing the loop through work a plain stitch on the Tricot, and continue the same until the Tatting is joined. To round the corners so that the Border may lie flat, the needle should be put into the last pearl of one dot and the 1st pearl of the next, and worked as one stitch. This should be done five or six times. With the same colored wool as the Tricot, make sufficient of the Scalloped Trimming to go all round, and join it to the black row of the Border with the black wool, always putting the needle into both edges of the plain rows.

TATTING SCALLOP TRIMMING.

_Materials—The edging being used to ornament more than one of the patterns in this book, the materials are given with each article._

THE SCALLOPS—Fill the Shuttle with the Wool, and commencing a loop work 2 double stitches, then with the Mesh or pin (make a pearl loop and work a double stitch alternately, until 6 loops are made); then work another double stitch and draw the loop nearly close, leaving a space in the centre the size of the Mesh.

Leave three-quarters of an inch of Wool before commencing the next Scallop. Continue them until the length is made.

Work with the Tricot Needle; take the Tatting and, keeping the straight edge at the top, work a plain Crochet stitch in the last pearl of the Scallop; then work 2 plain in the space in the centre of the Scallop and 1 plain in the last pearl. The thread which connects the Scallops is to be worked under these stitches. Continue working 4 plain stitches to each Scallop.

GENTLEMAN’S SOCK OR HALF-HOSE.

RIBBED KNITTING.

_Materials—4 ounces of plain or speckled Fingering Yarn, and 1 ounce of a contrasting color for the top and toe. 5 Knitting Needles No. 17 Bell gauge_.

The following directions will make a full-sized Stocking, viz—12 inches round the top of the leg, 12 inches in length from the top to the heel, and 11 inches long in the foot. By using Needles Nos. 16 or 18 it will make a size larger or smaller.

THE LEG—Use the color for the top—Cast on 24 stitches on each of four needles, keeping the fifth to make it round.

1st round—Pearl 3 stitches and knit 3 stitches alternately all round; in all 96 stitches.

Work 30 rounds or two inches more the same, always knitting or pearling the same stitches throughout the leg.—With the other color, knit 8 inches more the same.

TO SHAPE THE HEEL—Knit 23 stitches plain off the 1st needle which leaves a stitch, and putting it on the 2nd needle turn back, so as to work on the 23 stitches. Slip the 1st stitch and pearl the 22 stitches, then, using the same needle, pearl 20 stitches off the next needle, which leaves 4 stitches; put them on the next needle and turn back. The 53 stitches on the other needles are left for the Instep.

1st row—Slip the 1st stitch, knit 20, pearl 1, knit 21; turn back.

2nd row—Slip 1, pearl 42 stitches; turn back.

Repeat the 2 last rows 22 times more.

TO ROUND THE HEEL. 47th row—Slip 1, knit 15, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back, leaving 16 stitches on the other needle.

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48th row—Slip 1, pearl 10, turn back, leaving 14 stitches—slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back; † slip 1, pearl 12, that is, 2 stitches on those left unworked, turn back—slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back. Repeat from † 6 times more, always knitting or pearling 2 stitches more each time, so as every row to use two of the stitches left unworked; when finished, there will be 25 stitches on the needle.

THE INSTEP—Commence at the end of the 53 stitches left unworked, and with another needle raise 23 stitches from the selvedge formed by the rows at the right side of the heel.

Take another needle, and knit the 25 stitches left from the heel.

Then with the 5th needle, raise 23 stitches down the selvedge of the left side of the heel, and with the same needle knit off the first plain stitch of the 53. Put 51 of these instep stitches on one needle, and place the remaining stitch on the next needle to the left. It will now be 124 stitches round.

1st round—Work across the instep. (Pearl 3 and knit 3, alternately as before, 8 times) then pearl 3; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 67 _plain_; then knit 2 together, knit 1 plain.

2nd round—(Pearl 3 and knit 3, 8 times), pearl 3, knit the rest of the round all plain.

Repeat these two rounds 16 times more, knitting 2 stitches less at the stitches marked in italics each time.

Then knit 50 rounds the same as the 2nd round; when finished knit 20 rounds all plain.

THE TOE—Join on the other color and decrease thus—

1st round—Knit 2 together, knit 37 plain, knit 2 together, knit 4 plain. Repeat once more to finish the round.

2nd round—All plain.

Repeat the 2 last rounds 16 times more, knitting 2 plain less each time instead of 37.

Place the remaining stitches together so as to double the work, and knitting a stitch off each needle together, cast off the remaining stitches.

A SLEEPING SOCK.

KNITTING.—SEE PAGE 13.

_Materials—For a Lady, 2 skeins of white 3-ply Fleecy, and a pair of knitting pins, No. 12 Bell gauge; for a Gentleman the pins must be No. 10._

Commence at the sole. Cast on 28 stitches.

1st row—Slip 1, then increase a stitch by knitting the next stitch, but before taking it off the left pin, put the needle into the back of the same stitch and knit it off the pin; knit the rest of the row plain. Work 9 rows more the same.

Then work 18 rows, increasing in the same way at the beginning of every alternate row only, which will make one side slant more than the other; there will now be 47 stitches.

Knit 6 rows plain, always slipping the 1st stitch.

TO FORM THE INSTEP—Slip 1, knit 29, turn back, leaving 17 stitches on the pin: and on the 30 stitches knit 26 rows plain. The wool will be at the side nearest the stitches left, and with it cast 17 stitches on the pin with the 30 stitches, in all 47 stitches; and for the other side of the sole, knit 6 rows plain.

Next row—Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. Then knit a row plain. Work the last two rows 8 times more. Then 10 rows, decreasing every row, and cast off.

THE LEG—Return to the stitches left, and with the same pin raise 14 stitches from the selvedge formed by the rows across the instep, thus: put the pin into the nearest stitch at the edge, and bring the wool through in a loop on it; then in the same manner raise 17 stitches from the stitches cast on; there will now be 48 stitches.

1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, then (pearl 2 and knit 2 alternately to the end).

Knit 29 rows more the same, then 6 rows plain, and cast off.

Sew the sides together, then the 1st and last rows of the sole, and the slanting sides, drawing the straight rows at the toe together.

BABY’S CROCHET BOOT.

_Materials—8 skeins of white and 16 of colored Single Berlin Wool; Walker’s Penelope Crochet Needle, No. 1._ See page 13.

Commence at the Toe, and with the colored wool make 16 chain. The work should be tight.

1st row—Miss 1, 7 plain, 3 plain in one stitch, 7 plain, then 1 chain to form the selvedge, turn back. Now work in raised crochet, that is, putting the needle into the lower edge of the stitch of the previous row, and working a plain stitch, which will leave the upper edge in the front.

2nd row—Miss the 1 chain, work 8 plain always raised, then 3 stitches in one, 8 plain as before, 1 chain, turn back.

3rd row—Miss the 1 chain, then the rest plain; 1 chain at the end.

Repeat the last 2 rows, 9 times more, working a stitch more before and after the centre stitches each repeat. Then, to form the side of the boot,

22nd row—Miss the 1 chain, then 18 plain, still raised, 1 chain, turn back.

Work 37 rows more as the last, and when finished, crochet the last row to the other half of the front.

THE LEG—With the Colored wool commence at the centre stitch of the front of the boot, and round the ribs formed by the side, worked thus—

1st round—4 chain, miss a rib, 1 plain in the side of the next rib. Repeat all round.

2nd round—Work in the 4 chain, (1 plain, then 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 plain, all in the same 4 chain). Repeat all round, and fasten off.

3rd round—With white wool commence at the top of the 10th rib of the 38 rows, and keeping the little Scallops formed by the last 2 rounds down in the front, work 1 chain, miss a rib, 1 treble in the top of the rib not used in the 1st round. Repeat all round.

4th round—All plain crochet.