CHAPTER XVI

DUMFRIESSHIRE: KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE: RENFREWSHIRE: FIFESHIRE

LINCLUDEN: SWEETHEART: PAISLEY: DUNFERMLINE

LINCLUDEN (_Benedictine Nuns_)

Founded in the 12th century by Uchtred, son of Fergus, Lord of Galloway, for Benedictine nuns--Converted about two centuries later into a collegiate church for canons by Archibald, Earl of Douglas.

Another abbey, situated quite near Sweetheart, is Lincluden, at one time a favourite haunt of Burns, and beautifully described by him in his lines, “An evening view of the ruins of Lincluden.” The ruins, consisting of the provost’s house, the chancel and part of the south wall of the church, afford indications only of the former splendour of the pile. Originally a nunnery, Archibald of Douglas changed the establishment into a college for a provost and twelve canons. Archibald married the daughter of Robert III. This lady’s grave may be seen in the chancel, and though mutilated, still bears evidence of considerable elegance. It is in the form of an arch beautifully sculptured, with the heart of Douglas guarded by three chalices crosswise and a star near each in the centre.

In the choir also are several sedilia with pointed foliated arches, and over the sacristry door on the south side a colossal foliated trefoil. Though these features may be somewhat out of proportion to the size of the choir, they suggest larger dimensions, and if they had had more elevation and space around would have been seen to greater advantage. Besides the south transept only a tower and some scanty portions of the nave remain of this minster that once measured 216 feet long by 16½ feet broad.

As in the case of Sweetheart Abbey, there is little of historical or legendary interest associated with Lincluden--its popularity with the public being due to its beautiful and sheltered situation and to its associations with Robert Burns.

SWEETHEART (_Cistercian_)

1275, Founded by Lady Devergoil.

Sweetheart Abbey, a beautiful structure, stands a little westward of the mouth of the Nith in a lovely and sheltered nook at the base of Criffel, the most southerly mountain in Scotland. Only the church, a fine cruciform building with a central saddleback tower of 92 feet, and part of the chapter-house are now left. In the aisle of the south transept (the only part of the abbey that is roofed) is a groined wall with shields for bosses, on one of which are the abbey arms. A beautiful rose window at the east end of the church is by far the most interesting remaining feature of the abbey. The church, as it was after its foundation, does not seem to have been of much importance either ecclesiastically or politically and has therefore scarcely any history attached to its name. The abbey was founded in 1275 by Lady Devergoil, wife of John Baliol and mother of the Scottish king of that name, who also built the bridge and monastery at Dumfries. It was called at first New Abbey in contradistinction to the old abbey at Dundrennan. Its name, however, was changed later to Sweetheart because of a story told about its foundress and her husband. The Lady Devergoil was supposed to have had her husband’s heart embalmed and enclosed in an ivory box, and at the lady’s death this box was placed inside her tomb. Over the tomb may be seen this epitaph in Latin--

“In Dever-gill a sibil sage doth lie as Mary contemplative, as Martha pious, To her, O deign High King! best to impart Whom this stone covers with her husband’s heart.”

The ruins of the abbey were repaired in 1852 by means of a subscription raised among the gentry of the district, and augmented by a grant from Parliament.

PAISLEY (_Mitred Cluniac_)

1164, Founded as a Priory by Walter Fitzalan--Dedicated to SS. James, Mirin and Milburga--1219, raised to the rank of an Abbey--1307, Burned by the English--1561, Pillaged at the Reformation.

The largest and most important of Scottish abbeys is to be found near the greatest manufacturing centre of the country. Of Paisley Abbey, a house of great historical interest and very large and beautiful in its proportions, the only remains now standing are the nave and transept of the church and the adjoining Lady chapel. The transept is an interesting ruin, but the nave is entire and is still used as the church of the abbey parish, after having been restored at great price. The interior is of magnificent altitude, exhibiting three tiers of arches, partly pointed and partly semicircular, with cinque foiled arches formed within them. Many quaint images and inscriptions are to be seen on its walls, one of which, relating to George Schaw, the abbot, who in 1485 built a large wall to enclose the buildings and the land belonging to them--

“Then call it ye Abbot Georg of Schawe, Ablone yio abbaye qart mak yis way, A thousand four hundred yheyr Auchty and fyve the date but veir (Pray for his salvation) That made yis noble foundacion.”

The line in brackets is not quite intelligible but it is supposed to be “Pray for his salvation.”

The great western door, which is pointed and deeply recessed, with rich mouldings, is surmounted by three windows with superb tracery. The Lady chapel to the south is interesting on account of its echoes, which, owing to recent alterations, are not so pronounced as formerly. In this part of the chapel, generally called the sounding aisle, is the tomb of Margory Bruce, wife of Robert Bruce, and mother of the founder of the abbey. The cloisters, 68 feet square, were also on the south side of the abbey, but the domestic buildings have almost disappeared. The abbey, founded by Walter, the first of the Stuarts, in 1164, was tenanted by a colony of Cluniac monks from Shropshire. At that time the area of the abbey grounds was about one mile, the space unoccupied by the church and other buildings being used as orchard and park land.

DUNFERMLINE (_Mitred Benedictine_)

1072, Founded by Malcolm Canmore on site of a former Culdee monastery--1124, Remodelled as a Benedictine house and monks of that order placed there by David I.--1250, The choir, central tower, transept and Lady chapel added to the nave--Restored in the 14th century after partial destruction by Edward I.--1560, Plundered by Presbyterian mob; the nave only escapes destruction--1818-21, Present church built.

In the case of Dunfermline, the Westminster Abbey of Scotland, the most ancient, and consequently the most interesting part of the building has survived the onward tread of many centuries, and though now only in the form of a vestibule to the modern church, was once the nave of the minster founded here in the 11th century. Its architectural features somewhat resemble those of Durham and Lindisfarne with their stern Norman characteristics. It is of eight bays with massive pillars (20 feet high by 13 feet 6 inches in circumference), some of which are spirally channelled, while two have chevron mouldings, it has also a very rich Norman north door, some Early English windows in the aisles, and a triforium and clerestory composed of round headed arches. The nave was the first piece of Norman work in Scotland, and from the 16th to the 19th century was used as the parish church of the district. The sound of an organ was heard for the first time in Scotland within its walls. The west front (Decorated) has a fine recessed portal with a four light window with Geometrical tracery above. The western towers and north west porch are also of the Decorated period, while the presbytery is entirely Early English work. An interesting feature of the newly erected modern Gothic church is the balustrade on the tower which covers the site of Bruce’s grave (discovered during the recent rebuilding of the church), and has terminals in shape of letters reading “King Robert the Bruce,” “a modern apotheosis of the murderer of Comyn by men who cannot tolerate the Cross, the symbol of salvation.” Of the other buildings, only the south wall and west gable of the refectory, the gate-way with the “pended” tower, and some portions of the abbot’s lodge remain. Beneath the refectory are twenty-six cells.

The ancient mitred abbey measured 276 feet by 66 feet, was cruciform and of mixed architectural periods. For many centuries Dunfermline was the frequent residence of Scottish monarchs, and for more than two centuries the kings were buried within its walls; notably the royal Founder, King Edgar, Alexander I., Alexander III., David I. and Malcolm IV. The monks had great influence in the neighbourhood and the monastery was richly endowed.

Dunfermline, the “City of Fife,” stands on a long swelling ridge above the Forth, and, viewed from the south with its background of Cleish hills, presents a most striking aspect.

INDEX

Aben, a fugitive, 84

Aberac, Celtic name of York, 34

Adam, abbot of Meaux, 61

Adams, abbot of Valle Crucis, 167

Adeliza, Queen, 83

Adrian IV., Pope, 161

Ældred, abbot of Rievaulx, 49

Agatha, St, 50, 52

Aidan, St, 5, 17, 18, 187

Aifwardus, abbot of Evesham, 147

Ailesbury, Earls of, 44, 45

Aislabie, William, 63

Alban, St, British martyr, 2, 27, 161, 162, 163, 164

Albert, archbishop of York, 36

Albini, Gundreda de, 42, 43

Alcuin, schoolman of York, 34

Aldhelm, St, 7, 88, 89, 124

Aldwius, bishop of East Anglia, 112

Alexander, abbot of Kirkstall, 74

Alexander II., Pope, 112

Alneto, Robertus, hermit of Hode, 42

Amphibalus, St, 161, 163

Anselm, abbot of Bury St Edmunds, 115

Aragon, Catherine of, 78

Archibald, St, 6

Ardern, Thomas, 78

Arimathea, St Joseph of, 1, 122

Arthur, King, 2, 122, 123, 124, 135

Arviragas, King, 122, 123

Aschewine, bishop of Dorchester, 140

Asser, Bishop, 98

Athanasius, St, 1

Athelstan, King of Wessex, 37, 78, 89

Aucherius, abbot of Reading, 82

Augustine, St, 1, 4, 98, 99, 122, 151

Auxerre, city of, 3, 57, 58

Baldwin, abbot, 112

Baliol, Robert, 189

Baliol, Edward, 178

Baliol, John, 195

Baliol, Bernard de, 20

Bauzan, Richard, 104

Beatoun, archbishop, 172

Beauchamp, Beatrice de, 184

Bede, the Venerable, 7, 22, 23, 24

Bedford, Robert, (tomb), 141

Bellenden, Robert de, 178

Benedict, St, 58

Bennet, William, prior of Finchale, 26

Bernard, St of Clairvaux, 49, 64

Berthwald, King, 88

Betun, Roger de, bishop of Hereford, 136

Bewfforest, Sir Richard, abbot of Dorchester (tomb), 141

Bewfforest, Richard (tomb), 141

Bienfaite, Richard de, 133, 134

Bigod, Hugh, 134

Bigod, Roger, 134

Birinus, St, 5, 139, 141

Bird, prior of Bath, 128

Biscop, Benedict, 6, 22, 23

Biwell, Walter, chaplain to Bernard de Baliol, 20

Blois, Henry de, 94, 95, 122

Bohemia, Anne of, 155

Bonham, Sir William, 178

Boreham, Richard, abbot of St Albans, 161

Bowes, Sir G., 182, 183, 184, 189

Bradley, abbot of Fountains, 63

Bradley, Dean, 160

Brandon, Charles, Duke of Suffolk, 13, 115

Breton, Bishop J., 122

Brewster, Sir David, 187

Brittany, Alan of, Earl of Richmond, 34

Bronescombe, Walter de, bishop of Exeter, 104

Browne, Sir Anthony, 79

Bruce, Robert, 174, 176, 187, 189, 198

Bruce, Edward, 170

Burgh, Hubert de, 111

Byron, Sir J., 13, 143, 144

Cædmon, Anglican poet, 7

Cæsar, Claudius, 1

Cæn, Paul de, abbot of St Albans, 161

Canmore, Malcolm, 197

Canute, King, 9, 114

Caradercus, Duke of Cornwall, 124

Caractacus, 1, 124

Carnaby, Sir R., 21

Cavendish, Lord Frederick, 71

Caxton, William, 159

Cérisy, Walter of, 147, 149

Chad, St, 6

Chamberlayne, Edward, 178

Chantry, Bishop Rogers, 98

Chaucer, Geoffrey, 184

Cheney, Sir T., 77, 78

Chinnock, John de, 126

Christina, abbess of Romsey, 95

Chrysostom, St, 1

Claughton, Thomas Leigh, bishop of St Albans, 161

Clement, Abbot, 98

Clifford, Henry, Earl of Cumberland, 71

Clinton, Lord Edward, 109

Coel, king of Britain, 124

Columba, St, 17, 169

Comyn, William, Earl of Buchan, 169

Constantine the Great, 27

Corbeuil, William de, archbishop of Canterbury, 76

Cowley, Abraham, 82

Crawfurd, Abbot, 178, 182

Cromwell, Oliver, 89, 108

Cromwell, Secretary, 21

Curteys, abbot of Bury St Edmunds, 116

Cuthbert, St, 6, 17, 18, 187, 188

Cynegils, king of Wessex, 5, 139

Dacre, Lord, 189

Darnley, Lord, 180

David, St, 135

Davell, Henry, abbot of Whitby, 54

Denmark, Margaret, princess of, 175, 178

Denny, Sir A., 117, 119

Dent, William, abbot of St Mary’s, York, 34

Devergoil, Lady, 195, 196

Devonshire, Amicia, Countess of, 103

Diocletian, Emperor of Rome, 2, 27

Douglas, Archibald, Earl of, 194

Douglas, Margaret, Countess of, 195

Drake, Sir Francis, 103, 104, 143

Drayton, Sir J. (tomb), 141

Dromore, bishop of, 50

Drostan, St, 169

Dunstan, archbishop of Canterbury, 8, 125

Ecgfrid, king of Northumbria, 20, 22

Edmund, St, king and martyr, 7, 112, 124

Edmund, Ironsides, 9, 124

Edgar, king of Wessex, 8, 124, 128

Edred, son of Edward the Elder, 84, 106

Edward, the Elder, 94, 112

Edward, the Confessor, 9, 112

Edwaldus, brother of St Edmund, king and martyr, 98

Edwin, king of Northumbria, 27, 35, 36

Egremont, boy of, 70

Egclwya, bishop of Durham, 84

Egwine, St., 147, 149

Elfrida, queen of Wessex, 100

Elwina, abbess of Romsey, 95

Eneas, 34

Elyote, John, 102

Eoves, a shepherd, 149

Ercombert, king of Kent, 76

Ethelmer, Earl of Cornwall, 98

Erinsuis, chaplain to Queen Maud, 135, 136

Espec, Walter, 49

Ethelbald, king of Mercia, 106

Ethelburga, queen of Northumbria, 27, 35

Ethelbert, king of Kent, 4

Ethelbert of East Anglia, 162

Ethelburh, queen of Wessex, 124, 125

Ethelfleda, daughter of Oswy, king of Northumbria, 54

Ethelmer, Earl of Cornwall, 98

Etheldreda, queen of Northumbria, 20

Ethelred, king of Mercia, 149

Ethelred the Unready, 9, 100, 101, 147

Ethelwerdus, or Egelwaldus, 98

Ethelwold, abbot of Abingdon, 84, 85

Ethelwold, archbishop of Winchester, 94

Eugenius II, 84, 108

Eure, Sir Ralph, 184, 191, 193

Fairfax, 37

Fane, Sir H., 79

Farringdon, Henry, abbot of Reading, 82

Fastolph, abbot of Fountains, 67

Felix, St, the “Apostle of East Anglia,” 5

Ferrars, Robert, Earl of, 120, 122

Fillan, St, 174

Finchale, Godricus de, 24, 25, 26

Finian, St, of Clonard, 3

Fitz-Alan, Walter, 196

FitzBardolph, Akarius, 44, 46

Fitz-Hamon, Robert, 130

Frampton, Sir Robert, 90

France, King John of, 161

Frithwaldus, governor of the Province of Surrey, 81

Fuller, Robert, abbot of Waltham, 117

Fursey, a Scottish monk, 5

Galloway, Fergus, Lord of, 194

Gausbertus, abbot of Battle, 80

Geoffrey, abbot of Croyland, 106, 107

Gerald, abbot of Furness, 40, 42

Germanus, bishop of Auxerre, 2

Germanus, St, monk of Auxerre, 57

Gildas, British historian, 1

Gilmer, 80

Giraldus, abbot of Tewkesbury, 132

Gloucester, Humphrey, Duke of, 112

Gloucester, Walter de, 137

Godwin, 147

Grainvilla, Richard de, 165

Gregory, Pope, 4, 151

Gregory, abbot of Stanlawe, 31

Grendon, Serle de, 142

Gresham, Sir Richard, 63

Greslei, Robert, 109

Grenville, Sir R., 103

Grimstone, Hugh, abbot of Kirkstall, 74

Grimthorpe, Lord, 161

Gross, William de, Earl of Albemarle, 61, 108

Guthlac, St, 106

Guinevere, Queen, 124

Hadrian, 35

Hamilton, Patrick, abbot of Fearn, 172

Harold, Earl 19, 117

Hastings, Sir R., 191, 193

Hay, James, Earl of Carlisle, 119

Hearn, Viceroy of Wiltshire, 84, 85

Helias, abbot of Selby, 60

Hengist, 84

Herfastus, Bishop, 114

Herlwin, Abbot, 122

Herman, Bishop, 96

Heron, John, a Border robber, 21

Hertford, Earl of, 183, 186, 189, 193

Hereford, Earl of Milo, 135

Hilda, abbess of Hartlepool, 54

Hoby, Sir Philip, 147

Holland, Gilbert de, 110

Honorius, Pope, 5, 139, 161

Horsey, Sir J., 96

Huby, Marmaduke, abbot of Fountains, 66

Hugh, bishop of Durham, 24

Hugh, abbot of Reading, 82

Hugh, dean of York, 65

Hume, John, 193

Ignatius, Father, 135

Ina, king of the West Saxons, 96, 122, 124, 125

Innocent, Pope, 88

Insula, de, prior of Finchale, 26

Islip, abbot of Westminster, 156

Jerome, St, 1

Joanna, wife of Alexander II, 187

Kenredus, king of Mercia, 147

Kent, John of, 63, 66

King, Bishop, 128, 129

Kingston, John of, 46

Kintevymus, King, 124

Knox, John, 15, 172, 186

Lacy, William de, 136

Lacy, Hugh de, 135, 136

Lacy, Henry de, 55, 72, 74

Lamberton, William, bishop of St Andrews, 176

Lancaster, William de, 28

Lancaster, Aveline de, 156

Landon, Walter, 135

Lanfranc, archbishop of Canterbury, 158, 162

Langton, Archbishop, 115

Layton, Sir B., 182, 183, 184, 185

Lee, Archbishop, 21

Leeds, John, 44

Leving, bishop of Worcester, 100

Lennox, Matthew, Earl of, 44

Lesly, Norman, 184

Lichfield, Clement, Earl of Evesham, 148

Lidgate, poet, 116

Littlington, 159

Longespee, William, Earl of Salisbury, 90

Longespee, Ella, Countess of Salisbury, 90

Lothian, Marquis of, 193

Lucius, king of Britain, 2, 151, 158

Lucy, Sir B., 92

Lutherius, bishop of Winchester, 88

Lupus, bishop of Troyes, 2

MacAlpine, Kenneth, 186, 188

Madoc ap Griffith Madoc, 167

Mare, Thomas de la, abbot of St Albans, 161

Marivanna, abbess of Romsey, 94

Maurice, abbot of Inchaffray, 174

Maydulphus, 88

Mellitus, Italian missionary, 151, 158

Meschines, William de, 68, 70

Meschines, Cecile de, 68, 70

Modanus, St, 183

Molême, Robert de, 64

Montague, Earl of, 63

Montague, Bishop, 129

Montfort, Earl Simon de, 147, 150, 157

Moon, Richard, abbot of Bolton, 68, 71

Morganwg, Lewis, 165

More, Sir Thos., 159

Morton, Stephen, Earl of, 28

Morville, Hugo de, Lord Lauderdale, 184, 193

Mowbray, Roger de, 42, 43

Nash, Beau, 129

Northwode, John de (brass), 77

Northwode, Joan de ( “ ), 77

North, Colonel, 72

Oddo & Doddo, Dukes of Mercia, 130

Odo, archbishop of Canterbury, 8, 125

Offa, king of Mercia, 128, 147, 151, 158, 161, 162, 163

Oliver, Abbot, Royal Ambassador of England, 184

Ordgarus, Earl of Devonshire, 100

Ordulf, son of Ordgarus, Earl of Devonshire, 100, 101

Osbert, abbot of Jedburgh, 193

Oswald, king of Northumbria, 5, 17

Oswy, king of Northumbria, 36, 54

Otringham, Richard de, 61

Parker, abbot of Tewkesbury, 132

Paslow, John, abbot of Whalley, 33

Patrick, Canon, poet, 184

Patrick, St, 122

Paulet, Sir William, 91

Paulinus, St, 5, 31, 35, 122

Pembroke, William, Earl of, 133

Penda, king of Mercia, 5, 36

Penryn, John, abbot of Tavistock, 101, 102

Percy, Henry, 109, 163

Percy, William de, Lord of Whitby, 54

Philip, abbot of Byland, 42

Pickering, Sir William, 44

Ptolemy, Alexandrian geographer, 35

Pudsey, Henry, 26

Pyke, Roger, abbot of Furness, 28, 31

Quiniacus, Peter de, A monk of Savigny, 44, 46

Raincourt, Guido de, 55

Ramyge, abbot of St Albans, 163

Remigius, bishop of Dorchester, 139

Reinfrid, abbot of Whitby, 54

Richmond, Alan, Earl of, 44, 46

Richmond, Conan, Earl of, 47

Ripley, John, abbot of Kirkstall, 72

Risdon, 101

Robert, Bishop, 128

Roger, bishop of Sarum, 136

Roger, bishop of Salisbury, 96

Roaldus, Constable of England, 50

Romaine, John, archdeacon of Richmond, 52

Romille, Alice de, 68, 70

Russell, Lord, 13, 100

Saleth, hermit, 74

Samson, Abbot of Bury St Edmunds, 115

Scudamore, John, Lord, 121

Scott, Michael, 187

Scott, Walter, Sir, of Buccleuch, 184

Scrope, Richard, 51

Sebert, king of the East Saxons, 158

Sedbergh, Adam, abbot of Jervaulx, 44

Serlo, dean of York, 63, 65

Sevam, robber, 59

Severus, 35

Sexburga, Queen, 76

Shaw, George, 196

Sigberct, king of East Anglia, 5, 112

Sigge, a robber, 59

Shurland, Robert de (tomb), 77

Skelton, first Poet Laureate, 159

Somerset, Protector, 189

Sparke, Thomas, prior of Lindisfarne, 18

Staunton, John, abbot of Dale, 143

Stockton, Sir John, 109

Strail, James, 184

Stratherne, Gilbert, Earl of, 174

Strehall, prior of Finchale, 26

Strode, Ralphe de, 184

Stumpe, William, clothier, 88

Surrey, Lord, 191, 193

Sweyn, 9, 95, 113, 128

Tanner, William, 141

Taylor, Walter, 92

Theocus, hermit, 130

Theodore, archbishop of Canterbury, 6

Thirlby, bishop of Westminster, 159

Thomas, archbishop of York, 19, 20

Thurstan, archbishop of York, 42, 64

Thurstan, abbot of Glastonbury, 122, 126

Tison, Gilbert, standard-bearer of England, 55

Tickhill, John of, 25

Tosti, dean of York, 63, 65

Tovi, standard-bearer to Canute, 117

Tudor, Mary, queen of France, 115

Tyler, William, M.A., 102

Uchtred, 194

Ultcyter, abbot of Croyland, 106

Valence, Aymer de (tomb), 156

Villula, John de, 128

Wakeman, John, abbot of Tewkesbury, 130

Wake, Sir William, Bart., D.C.L., 117

Wallace, William, 171

Wallingford, William, abbot of St Albans, 163

Ware, abbot of Westminster, 157

Warham, archbishop of Canterbury, 78

Warwick, abbot Simon of, 34, 40

Watts, Dr, 92

Whiting, Richard, abbot of Glastonbury, 122, 127

Wilberforce, Samuel, dean of Westminster, 160

Wilfrid, St, 5, 19

William, prior of Wycombe, 135

Williams, Sir Richard, 166

Wishart, George, 172

Wolsey, Cardinal, 12, 13, 78, 97

Wulfar, king of Mercia, 81

Wulfsiu, Bishop, 96

Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 98

York, John of, 66

COLSTON AND CO. LTD., PRINTERS, EDINBURGH

FOOTNOTES:

[1] “This saying of St Bernard is usually inscribed,” says Dr. Whitaker, “on some conspicuous part of the Cistercian Houses.”

[2] Waxed nigh.

[3] Wild.

[4] Bound.

[5] Round.

[6] Shoot.

[7] Arrows.

[8] Hedgehog.

[9] Spikes.

[10] This last verse is a piece of gross flattery to the Scottish monarch, for in his reign the church underwent but few repairs.

Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

Kirstall=>Kirkstall {pg xi}

“In 1775 the first Cathedral was built by King Offa.=> “In 775 the first Cathedral was built by King Offa. {pg 128}

ST ALBAN’S (_Mitred Benedictine_)=> ST ALBANS (_Mitred Benedictine_) {pg 161}

Euginius III., Pope, 84, 108=> Eugenius III., Pope, 84, 108 {pg 201}

Sedburgh, Adam, abbot of Jervaulx, 44=> Sedbergh, Adam, abbot of Jervaulx, 44 {pg 203}