CHAPTER VII

LINCOLNSHIRE: SUFFOLK: ESSEX

CROYLAND: THORNTON: SWINESHEAD: BURY ST EDMUNDS: WALTHAM

CROYLAND (_Mitred Benedictine_)

716, Founded in the isle of Croyland by Ethelbald, King of Mercia, in memory of St Guthlac--870, Church and monastery destroyed by the Danes--948, The abbey rebuilt and re-endowed by King Edred--1060, A new church begun by Abbot Ultcyter--1091, New church destroyed by fire--1113, Restored by Abbot Geoffrey, subsequently becoming a mitred abbey of great magnificence--15--, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £1082, 15s. 10d.

The ruins of Croyland Abbey are of exceptional interest and show many styles of architecture. The west arch of the central tower with its zig-zag moulding is Norman work, and is undoubtedly the most ancient part of the ruin. The west front consists of two styles--Early English in the lower part and Perpendicular in the upper. The north-west tower was erected in 1427; its buttresses and spire, and also the adjoining west porch are, however, 16th century work. The remainder of the ruins are mostly Perpendicular--the nave, aisle, transepts and Lady chapel having been built in the 15th century. The north aisle of the abbey church has been used as the parish church since 1688 when the roof of the abbey fell in. Croyland in its prosperity was one of the most wealthy and magnificent monastic foundations in England.

Founded in Saxon times, it was re-established after the Norman invasion and subsequently became a mitred abbey. The original church and monastery suffered greatly at the hands of the Danes in the 9th century, the “Abbot being slain at the altar where he was celebrating the Holy Communion and many of the monks being tortured and killed in the most cruel manner.” Shrines and monuments were specially singled out by the Danes for destruction, the sacred contents being irreverently scattered in all directions, and the costly memorials rifled. But for the influence of monasticism, Croyland (derived from the Latin _Crudam terram_--muddy land) might still be a small and insignificant island. Owing to the religious enterprise and enthusiasm of King Ethelbald, the abbey was built on the tract of land with which he endowed it. At his instigation oak and alders were driven in as piles, and hard earth brought in boats from the upland. An excellent system of drainage, too, was carried out, converting marsh into rich pasture land, watered by the Welland alone instead of the four streams by which it was originally enclosed.

A curious triangular bridge, the most ancient of all non-Roman bridges in Europe, stands high and dry in the centre of the village. From its steep ascent it is not used by carriages--the ascents having been made into steps paved with small stones. In connection with the history of Croyland and its abbey one may learn another of the means by which so many rich and sumptuous religious houses were built in the kingdom. Joffrida or Geoffrey, Abbot of Croyland, obtained indulgence from the Archbishop for the third part of the penance enjoined for any particular sin and to everyone who helped in any way towards the building of the monastery. Monks were sent out to collect money and before long a foundation stone was laid with great ceremony. The abbot laid the first cornerstone, every nobleman according to his rank laying his stone, accompanied in every case by substantial gifts in kind. The poorer people offered one day’s work a month, small gifts of money--certain numbers of them holding themselves responsible for whole pillars, pedestals, etc. The abbot in return made every helper a member of the fraternity, to which in later years Henry VI., King of England, was also admitted. In the time of the Civil wars, Croyland became a garrison for one or other of the contending sides, and the abbey was taken by Cromwell in 1642.

THORNTON (_Mitred Augustine Canons_)

1139, Founded by William de Gross, Earl of Albemarle--Canons regular introduced from Kirkham--1148, Richard, their prior, elected abbot by Pope Eugenius III.--Richard I. “confirmed all the possessions given to the abbey of St Mary of Thornton and the canons there, with the grant of large Liberties and Immunities” (Dugdale’s _Monasticon_)--1517, The abbey mitred--15--, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £594, 17s. 10d.

The ruins of this Augustine house are at a distance of a little over a mile from the village of Thornton Curtis, and about five miles from Barton-on-Humber, in the county of Lincoln. In former days the abbey demesne extended to 100 acres, and was surrounded by a moat and wall. The beautiful early Perpendicular gate-house, undoubtedly one of the finest of the period existing in this country; a fragment of the south transept of the church (Decorated); the abbot’s house, now converted into a farm; and a small portion of the chapter-house still remain--the latter dating from between 1282-1308. Several slabs and stone coffins lie about in the area of the nave of the abbey church. It is evident that the choir was built in the 14th century, the presbytery, however, was probably work of a later period.

Old associations ensure reverent treatment for the scanty remains, and although the rude hand of Time cannot be stayed, still such wanton destruction as was meted out to the sacred establishment by some of the former possessors is not likely to be repeated in the present healthy state of popular opinion in such matters. The mode of capital punishment, not uncommon in monasteries, and described with such thrilling and awful detail in the second Canto of _Marmion_, had evidently been exercised within the walls of Thornton, for in taking down a wall in the ruins, a skeleton, supposed to have been the remains of the 14th abbot, was found with a table, book and candlestick. Mingled feelings must have moved the obsequious monks, when a few years before the impending storm of the Dissolution, Henry VIII. with his gentle consort, Jane Seymour, visited the abbey in solemn state. Sumptuous hospitality and flattering attentions were showered upon the royal guests, and not without effect, for, though Thornton shared in the general suppression of monastic houses, its coffers were left unplundered, and the money used towards the endowment of a college which was established there. This institution in turn was suppressed--liberal provision being made for several of its members. Thornton was part of the estate of Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, and afterwards belonged to Henry, son of Hotspur, who distinguished himself in the Civil War of York and Lancaster.

SWINESHEAD (_Cistercian_)

1134, Founded and endowed by Robert Greslei--Dedicated to the Virgin Mary--Henry II. confirms all the grants given to the abbey and the monks--1216, King John shelters here for one night--15--, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £167, 15s. 3d.--1551, Site granted to Edward, Lord Clinton--c. 1610, Entire building demolished by Sir John Stockton. The materials of the abbey used to build the present mansion known as Swineshead abbey.

Many interesting records are extant of religious life in the county of Lincoln. In the 13th and 14th centuries hundreds of pilgrims made their way from Lincolnshire to Rome and to the Holy Land, inspired doubtless, in great measure, by the spiritual influence emanating from the abbeys of Swineshead, Thornton, and Croyland. The monastic chronicles, with their references to larger incidents of history beyond monastic bounds, were introduced into England by the Normans. The writers in such chronicles were usually monks, drawn from the lower or middle classes, who spoke chiefly of events as they touched the religious and substantial welfare of the people. We read therefore that the gild of the Resurrection at Lincoln (founded in 1374) had among its rules, “If any brother or sister wishes to make a pilgrimage to Rome, St James of Galicia, or the Holy Land, he shall forewarn the gild; and all the brethren and sistern shall go with him to the city gate, and each shall give him a halfpenny at least.” The same rule is found in the Gild of Fullers of Lincoln, founded in 1297; the pilgrim going to Rome was accompanied, as far as the Queen’s Cross outside the town if he left on a Sunday or Feast; and if he could let them know of his return, and it were not a working day, all went to meet him at the same place and accompanied him to the monastery. Again, the tailors also gave a halfpenny to him among them who is going to Rome or St James, and a penny to him who goes to the Holy Land. The activities of these Gilds were probably directed to some extent from the Abbey of Swineshead or Swinestead, seven miles from Boston in Lincolnshire.

Founded in 1134, the abbey was at first of small importance. One of the early abbots, Gilbert de Holland--particular friend and biographer of St Bernard--worked strenuously to promote the welfare of the new order of Cistercian or “white monks.” Little is known of the work of this religious establishment, but history has familiarised the name of Swineshead to many readers, for it was here that King John sought refuge after the misfortune which befell him on the banks of the Wash. Greatly annoyed at the loss of his treasures and baggage carriages, which were suddenly swept away by the return of the tide, the king and his men proceeded to Swineshead Abbey. On the night of their arrival the king was seized with a violent fever which, after a few days’ illness, proved fatal. One authority attributes his sudden death to a surfeit of fruit and new cider. Shakespeare evidently ignores both versions of the king’s sudden demise, for in _King John_, Act V. Scene VI., in a conversation near Swineshead Abbey, Hubert de Burgh speaking to Philip Falconbridge says:

“The King, I fear, is poisoned by a monk; I left him almost speechless....

_Philip._ How did he take it? Who did taste to him?

_Hubert._ A monk, I tell you; a resolved villain.”

There are very few adherents to this theory, for, such an act on the part of a monk, unless inspired by the King’s enemy, would have been motiveless and contrary to the prevailing spirit in the hospitable monasteries. Among other ancient customs still prevalent in Swineshead are the daily curfew at 8 p.m. and the cutting of a large cross in the turf on the spot where death by violence has befallen any one. An interesting Danish encampment near the town, and known as Manwarings, is 60 yards in diameter and surrounded by a double fosse.

BURY ST EDMUNDS (_Mitred Benedictine_)

_c._ 637, Monastery founded in Beodericsworth by Sigberct, King of the East Angles--903, King Edmund the Martyr buried in the church--925, Church receives benefactions from King Athelstan, King Edmund, son of Edward the Elder, and King Edwy--1020, Benedictine monks introduced in place of secular priests by Canute--1021, A new church built by Aldwius, Bishop of East Anglia--1032, Consecrated in honour of Christ, the Blessed Mary and St Edwin--1065, Edward the Confessor visits the abbey in the guise of a pilgrim, greatly enriches the house, and grants to the abbot and monks the right of coining within the monastery--1071, Pope Alexander II. grants to the abbot and his successors episcopal jurisdiction--1081, The church and town of Bury declared to be exempt from the Bishop’s jurisdiction--_c._ 1097, The newly erected church pulled down by Abbot Baldwin, who builds another of hewn stone. 11--, Henry I. visits the abbey and offers his crown before St Edmund’s shrine--1214, King John receives hospitality from the monks--1327, The burgesses of Bury gain forcible possession of the monastery and for several months harass the community; the king’s judges put an end to these disgraceful riots in December; a claim of £140,000 lodged against the townspeople by the monastery, which is defrayed by Edward III.--1447, Henry VI. and Queen Margaret visit the abbey--Humphrey Duke of Gloucester arrested and foully murdered by Suffolk during the Royal visitation--1465, Abbey suffers great destruction from fire--15--, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £1659, 13s. 11d.

The history of the abbey of Bury St Edmunds, although veiled in much legendary and mythical lore, tells nevertheless in its actual history of the progress of civilisation and of the enlightenment of the human mind. Sigberct, King of the East Angles, is said to have founded the first monastery at Beodericsworth (a town known to the Romans, ancient Britons, Saxons and Danes), and to have subsequently laid aside his royal dignity by joining the brotherhood which he had established. Following his example of religious devotion, Edmund, last King of the East Angles, sacrificed not only his crown but his life in defence of the Christian faith, for he was beheaded by the Danes at Eglesdene in 870.

“Off this language Hyngwar wex[2] nyh wood,[3] Made the Kyng strongly to be bonde,[4] And commanded afform him as he stood, Ffirst to be bete with shorte battis ronde.[5] His body brused with many mortal wounde, As ever the martyr among his peynes alle, Meekly to Jhu for helpe began to calle.

The cheef refuge and supportacion In his sufferance was humble pacience, Loved to his herte gaff consolation, With ghostly feer quickid the fervence. Ffor charite feeleth no violence, Ffor wher charite afforceth a corage Ther is of peyne fonde non outrage.

The cursed Danys of new cruelte, This martyr took, most gracious and benign, Of hasty rancour bound him to a tree, As for their mark to sheete[6] at and ther signe And in this wise ageyne him ther maline Made hym with arwis[7] of ther malis most wikked Rassemble an yrchon[8] fulfilled with spryngs[9] thkke.”

His head was cast into a forest and, as the story goes, was miraculously discovered and found to be guarded by a wolf. It was then buried with the body at the village of Hoxne where it remained until 903. In this year, “the precious, undefiled, uncorrupted body of the glorious king and martyr” was translated to the care of the secular priests at Beodericsworth, since when the town has been called St Edmundsbury in memory of the sainted monarch. Other wonderful traditions are associated with the shrine of St Edmund. Sweyn, the violent Danish king, coming in hot pursuit of a woman who had claimed sanctuary, was miraculously killed by an imaginary spear which came out of the shrine when he was about to seize the woman who was clinging to its side. Bishop Herfastus, too, was struck blind, when on a visit to the abbot, in the attempt to establish his new See in the monastical demesne, and afterwards miraculously healed. For centuries the highest in the land brought gifts and laid them before the venerated shrine.

Canute was the actual founder of the monastery proper, for in the 11th century he brought over Benedictine monks from Hulm, granting them a charter and many benefactions. The monastery yearly became more prosperous, and, with the exception of Glastonbury, exceeded in magnificence and privileges all other ecclesiastical establishments in the country. In the height of its glory it must have been a most beautiful and dignified structure. Leland writes:--

“A monastery more noble, whether one considers the endowments, largeness, or unparalleled magnificence, the sun never saw. One might think the monastery alone a city: it has three grand gates for entrances, some whereof are brass, many towers, high walls and a church than which nothing can be more magnificent.”

The immense minster with its lofty western and central towers rose above the monastic buildings which were enclosed by a wall. To the north was a great cloister with the various conventual offices, to the south-west lay the cemetery and church of St Mary, while immediately before the west front of the church stood the Norman tower leading to St James’ Church.

Sufficient is left of the reverend walls to convey some idea of the former vastness of the abbey and its attendant buildings. Of the minster itself little remains--some arches of the west front, now converted into private houses, and the bases of the piers which supported the central tower. The site of St Edmund’s chapel--the part of the building which contained the famous and much visited shrine--is at the east end of the church. Besides these relics of the minster, there still exists the Norman tower--built during the time of Abbot Anselm and formerly known as the principal entrance to the cemetery of St Edmund, and latterly as the “Churchgate” and bell tower of St James’ church;--the abbot’s bridge (Decorated) of three arches; portions of the walls; and the abbey gateway. The latter was restored in 1327 after one of the many quarrels between the monks and townspeople and is of rich Decorated work. Within the extensive abbey demesne lie the churches of St James--another piece of Anselm’s work--and St Mary. The latter was built by the parish folk. A small portion of its west end protrudes beyond the abbey precincts and was built thus with the intention of distinguishing it as the work of the town and not of monastical enterprise. It is a beautiful and imposing edifice in the Perpendicular style, and among its many beauties is the unique waggon-roof of the chancel. The remains of Mary Tudor, Queen of France, and afterwards those of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, were brought from the abbey and reinterred there.

First among the abbots of Bury stands the name of Samson, “the wolf who raged among the monks.” Many of the brothers had become entangled with Jewish moneylenders in the 12th century, and Abbot Samson, while protecting the Jews at the time of the massacre, discharged all the debts of his house, established many new rules, and set a godly and strenuous example to his followers. Later, in 1205, the chief barons met at Bury in opposition to King John and swore at the second meeting, four years later, in the presence of the King and Archbishop Langton, to stand by their cause till the King should be induced to sign the Great Charter, and to establish those liberties which we still enjoy.

“Where the rude buttress totters to its fall, And ivy mantles o’er the crumbling wall; Where e’en the skilful eye can scarcely trace The once high altar’s lowly resting-place-- Let patriotic fancy muse awhile Amid the ruins of this ancient pile-- Six weary centuries have passed away; Palace and abbey moulder in decay-- Cold Death enshrouds the learnèd and the brave-- Langton--Fitzwalter--slumber in the grave. But still we read in deathless records how The high-soul’d priest confirmed the Barons’ vow And Freedom, unforgetful, still recites This second birthplace of our Native Rights.” J. W. DONALDSON and J. MUSKETT.

On the roll of illustrious visitors to the abbey are the names of Edward the Confessor, who always dismounted and approached the gates on foot; Richard I.; Henry I.; Henry II.; King John; Henry III.; Edward II.; Edward III.; and Richard II. The visit of Henry VI., with his Queen, took place during the rule of Abbot Curteys, at which time the poet Lidgate was a member of the fraternity. The foul murder of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, by the Duke of Suffolk (described by Shakespeare in _Henry VI._) is supposed to have taken place in St Saviour’s Hospital, which formed part of the abbey buildings. The writer, who had the pleasure of viewing the pageant presented at Bury St Edmunds in 1907, on a site near St Edmund’s chapel, was impressed by the historical fitness of the environment as the procession of black-robed monks filed slowly by, chanting an old Gregorian mode as they walked. Less realistic, if more diverting, was the spectacle of tonsured figures darting in and out of 20th century hostelries, and of Argyll cars filled with Roman and Elizabethan ladies and driven possibly by an Edwardian knight. These pageants, despite their incongruities, have much to commend them, reminding the English people, as they cannot fail to do, of the sources of their greatness, and illustrating to them so graphically the customs of the so frequently regretted “good old times.”

WALTHAM (_Augustine Canons_)

1017-35, Village and church founded by Tovi--1060, Rebuilt and endowed by Earl Harold--1117, Regular Canons appointed in place of secular Canons by Henry II.--1216-70, A favourite residence of Henry III.--1444, Campanile of the church struck by lightning--1539-40, Surrendered to Henry VIII. by Abbot Robert Fuller. Annual revenue, £170, 4s. 9d--The site granted to Sir Anthony Denny, eventually passing to the family of Sir William Wake, Bart., D.C.L.--1847-63, Church restored--1875, North aisle added.

Waltham, or Wealdham, from the Saxon “a dwelling near the forest,” an ancient and quaint market town, lies on the great North road. Tovi, standard-bearer to Canute, after building a few houses, set up a church here in the 11th century in which the Holy Rood, accredited with miraculous power, was guarded by priests. Dugdale in his _Monasticon_ states that Harold, when visiting Waltham, was healed of the palsy, and, being overcome with gratitude, granted lands and endowments to the priests, increased their number, rebuilt the church, and set up an establishment for the furtherance of learning. Harold is supposed to have been buried in Waltham Abbey after the battle of Senlac, “in confirmation of which it is stated that in the reign of Elizabeth a rich grey marble tomb was discovered, and from the pillarets which support the cross fleury upon it, little doubt exists that it covered the remains of the ill-fated Harold and his brothers” (Cassell’s _Gazetteer_). This was situated at the end of the church near the altar, and two inscriptions are ascribed to it, one of which is half a dozen lines of Latin, the other, more simple and consequently impressive, consists of two words, “Harold infelix.” The tomb was destroyed in 1540.

The venerable church was founded by a king of England; deprived of many of its valuables by the Norman Conqueror; firmly established by the Plantagenets--receiving both from Henry II. and Henry III. peculiar marks of favour--and finally was overwhelmed by Henry VIII. It is said that this monarch once visited the abbey in disguise, and after faring well on the sirloin of beef set before him by the abbot, the latter observed that he would give the king £100 if he too could enjoy his food, and lamented the state of his digestion which even prevented him from enjoying the breast of a chicken. Shortly after this the abbot was forcibly taken to London and lodged in the Tower, where he for some time enjoyed only bread and water for sustenance. At length a sirloin of beef was brought, upon which he fed in a most hearty manner. At this point King Henry strode into his cell and demanded £100, to which request the unfortunate abbot very reluctantly was obliged to concede.

Apart from its old associations, the town of the present day is of no special interest. Its streets are crooked and narrow and there is no particularly attractive feature about either the town or the exterior of the abbey church--one mile distant from the station. The present edifice of Norman origin, and dedicated to St Mary and St Lawrence, has been restored at various times since the Dissolution.

Of the early building practically only the nave remains--a very fine specimen of Norman architecture. Of seven bays--the two easternmost of which form the present chancel--and having massive circular columns with chevron or spiral channels, it is somewhat akin to the nave of Durham Cathedral. Other interesting features include the Lady chapel (now used as a schoolroom), beneath which is a crypt--“the fairest,” says Fuller, “that I ever saw,”--a chantry on the south-east side of the nave, of the time of Henry VII., and the western tower, erected in 1556 after the fall of the original tower. During the restoration of 1847 some fine fresco paintings, composed of life-sized figures, were discovered on the walls, and in 1875 the north aisle was added. There are several monumental brasses in the church, and in the south aisle is a large tomb to Sir E. Denny, Knight, and Margaret his wife, with recumbent effigies. The site of the abbey passed into the possession of this family after the Dissolution, then to the celebrated James Hay, Earl of Carlisle, and lastly to the family of Sir W. Wake, Bart., D.C.L. A few walls, a small bridge, and a gateway are all that remain of the monastery.