CHAPTER VI

WILTSHIRE: HAMPSHIRE: DEVONSHIRE

MALMESBURY: LACOCK: NETLEY: BEAULIEU: ROMSEY: SHERBORNE: CERNE: TAVISTOCK: BUCKLAND: BUCKFASTLEIGH

MALMESBURY (_Mitred Benedictine_)

--, Founded by Maydulphus--635, King Berthwald gives land at Summerford on Thames to the monastery--680, The monastery receives the town of Malmesbury from Lutherius, Bishop of Winchester--1248, Pope Innocent confirms the various grants and ordains that the rules of St Benedict “should always be observed here”--1539, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £803, 17s. 7d.

As in the case of Abingdon, the ruins of “the right magnificent abbey” of Malmesbury have been ruthlessly encroached upon--squalid streets and shabby houses crowd about its walls, and only a small stretch of land remains undisturbed in the immediate precincts of the abbey. One indignity upon another has been heaped upon this monastery (with which the name of St Aldhelm is inseparably connected), which formerly stood second alone to Durham for beauty of situation and majesty of aspect. At the Dissolution, one William Stumpe, clothier, bought the monastery with the adjoining land for the extraordinarily large sum of £1117, 15s. 11d., selling the nave of the abbey soon afterwards for use as a parish church. The conventual buildings he converted into a mill for the weaving of cloth--whilst small houses were built and streets laid out over the gardens and orchards. Later on, the conventual buildings were turned into a stone quarry, and to-day nothing remains of them except

the abbot’s house which has been rebuilt, serving now as a picturesque and beautiful private house.

Of the ruins there still stand the nave of seven bays with its massive Norman pillars, the aisles, and a wall belonging to the south transept. The south porch--a beautiful piece of Norman work--is said to be the finest of its kind in England, in execution as well as design. The west front--also Norman work--is ornamented with the signs of the Zodiac. In the north wall may be seen a door which led into the cloisters. These, and also the tower at the west end of the church were destroyed during the furious bombardment of Malmesbury by Oliver Cromwell, and on Restoration Day when the abbey was reduced to its present mutilated condition. Nothing remains of the great central tower save two arches. Work of the 12th and 14th centuries are evident in the vaulting of the nave and aisles. The Decorated clerestory was added during the reign of Edward III. The monument to the devout King Athelstan is also on the south side.

St Aldhelm, master of oratory, master of music and master of Greek, Latin, and Saxon letters, was buried in the precincts of Malmesbury. Fuller writes that, “the English monks were bookish themselves and much inclined to bound up monuments of learning.” This can be applied to Malmesbury more perhaps than any other monastic house. For 400 years the monks worked not only at translating the Greek and Latin Classics, compiling and writing theological books and books on law, but also in illuminating these books, and in binding them in gilded and jewelled covers. This huge library was destroyed to the last folio, while the manuscripts were used for such purposes as stopping the bungholes of barrels of special ale, and for lighting the bakery ovens. The splendid traditions as well as the location of Malmesbury might have led one to expect its inclusion among the abbeys destined after the Dissolution for preservation as cathedrals. Malmesbury was surrendered on December 15th, 1539, by Robert Frampton, who accepted a pension amounting in the money of our time to about £2000 a year.

LACOCK (_Augustine Nuns_)

1232, Founded by Ella, widow of William Longespee, Earl of Salisbury, for nuns--1246, The foundress elected abbess--1539, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £168, 9s. 2d.

The ruined walls of Lacock, or “waterlea,” stand in an open meadow on the banks of the river Avon, sheltered by many stately trees. Though the church was totally destroyed at the time of the Dissolution, many of the conventual parts remained unchanged, and are decidedly the best preserved of any nunnery in the kingdom. The cloisters were built in the reign of Henry IV.; the chapter-house and sacristy--both of two aisles divided by four pillars--are on the east side; the great hall on the north; and the ambulatory--above which is the dormitory--on the west. The remains of a former bathroom can be discerned near the sacristy. The historical and legendary associations of Lacock Abbey are of exceptional interest, and are fully dealt with in the Rev. Canon Bowles’ _History of Lacock_. The abbey was founded in 1232 by Ella, Countess of Salisbury, in pious remembrance of her husband William Longespee, brother of Richard Cœur de Lion. The Earl, who was in close attendance on King John, assisted in founding Salisbury Cathedral, and died by poisoning in 1226. A few years afterwards Ella, directed by visions, founded the monastery and became abbess of her own establishment. This office she retained until five years before her death, when she retired from monastic life. She was buried in the church, but though at the Dissolution the bones of the foundress and her family were scattered, her epitaph and stone were preserved with the cloisters and cells of the nuns.

NETLEY (_Cistercian_)

1237, Founded by Henry III. Dedicated to SS. Mary and Edward--Inhabited by Monks from Beaulieu--1239, Receives its charter from Henry III.--1539, Suppressed. Annual revenue, £100, 12s. 8d.--Granted to Sir William Paulet who adapts part of it to the purpose of a dwelling--1572, Comes into possession of the Earl of Hertford, and late in the 17th century into the possession of the Earl of Huntingdon.

At first sight, the abbey is not impressive. There are no majestic towers nor light and graceful spires--nothing but dense luxuriant foliage. The cloisters have vanished entirely, but where they stood is a deep turfed court, thick with trees and bounded with ivy-covered walls. “Behind this court is the site of the refectory, entirely destroyed except for its cloister walls; to the left the quarters of the lay brothers; to the right the wonderful triple arch of the chapter-house; and in front, seen only dimly through the trees, the windowed wall of the south aisle of the church.” All the buildings to the south of the cloister have been destroyed. The abbey church is fortunately in a fairly good state of preservation, for with the exception of the north transept the rest of the ruin is intact. It is of course roofless, but the elegant east window still conveys an idea of the elevation of this exquisite building. The nave was of eight bays with chapels, the choir of five bays with aisles, the transepts (with eastern chapels) measured 120 feet, and there was also a presbytery and central tower. The whole building appears to have been about 200 feet in length by 60 in breadth. Compared with Beaulieu, when both the abbeys were standing, Netley was far the smaller of the two. The little abbey’s almost perfect proportions are very apt to deceive one as to its real size, and its dimensions are very much smaller than one would ever imagine. Its length was 220 feet, while its height inside the church was only 43 feet. Of the classical reserved 13th century style, Netley, along with the abbeys of York and Rievaulx, attain more than any other the finality of pure Gothic architecture.

In 1700 the entire church was sold by Sir Berkeley Lucy on condition that the buildings be wholly removed, to a certain Walter Taylor, a builder of Southampton. Taylor was a Nonconformist and friend of the father of the eminent Dr Watts, by whom he had been advised to have nothing whatever to do with the impending sacrilege. Still persisting, however, in his communications with Sir Berkeley, he became tormented in dreams, in which it was revealed to him that his death would follow should he take any part in the ruin of the abbey. The unhappy man, however, signed the agreement with Lucy. He removed the roof, destroying the vaulting of the choir, nave, and north transept, together with the centre tower, selling them as so much building stone. While at work on the west end the tracery of the great window fell upon him suddenly, inflicting dreadful injuries to which he soon succumbed. In 1861 steps were taken to preserve what was left of the abbey by the next owner, Mr Chamberlay. The treatment which was given it was quite judicious, and it has not been furbished up into smug neatness like Kirkstall or Tintern, nor has it been abandoned to decay like Rievaulx. As the result of this careful handling, Netley is now left to rest a faultless and perfect ruin--a thing of almost indescribable beauty. The present-day value of Netley really lies in the infinite picturesqueness of its ruins. In the words of Sir Horace Walpole: “They are not the ruins of Netley but of Paradise. Oh! the purple Abbots! what a spot they had chosen to slumber in.”

BEAULIEU (_Mitred Cistercian_)

1204, Founded by King John--1539, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £326, 13s. 2d.

The spiritual brothers of every monastic order had in common, it would seem, the gift of discerning for their foundations sites as perfect in natural charms and resources as in their adaptability for lives of study and meditation, and in their security against encroachments from without. Beaulieu and Netley had each in a measure these advantages. At the time of the Dissolution remoteness and inaccessibility proved the salvation of Netley Abbey. The vast mother-abbey of Beaulieu however lay along tide-water, and its stones were materially available for the king’s purposes. Very little remains therefore of this seat of a mitred abbot except a few of the domestic buildings, including the refectory, now used as the parish church of Beaulieu (Early English), some remnants of the cloisters, and also the fratry and kitchen. On the east side of the cloister area three arches of the chapter-house still stand. The ruins of the abbey may be reached through a stone gateway adjoining the abbot’s house--now a modern mansion, in the Decorated hall of which is a particularly fine vaulted roof. Surrounding the house is a moat constructed by an Earl of Montague as a defence against the attacks of French privateers.

The site of the abbey church was fully disclosed during excavations undertaken at the instigation of members of the ducal house of Buccleuch, and we may trace the location of every wall and pier of what must once have been a noble church with its great nave of nine bays and complete double-aisled choir with a circular termination. The body of Isabella, wife of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, known as King of the Romans, has been found in front of the high altar. The loss of Beaulieu is irreparable in the history of English architecture. One can but be thankful that the little that remains is in the hands of so thoughtful and reverent a custodian, and that the exquisite natural charms are left, not only undisturbed, but are tended with such appreciation and discrimination that “Bellus locus” justifies its name as fully as ever it did. Close to the New Forest, surrounded by majestic trees, the beauty of the scene is greatly enhanced by the sheet of water which spreads itself in sight of the foliage--whilst glimpses of a tidal river can be seen winding between banks edged with trees towards the not far distant ocean.

“Now sunk, deserted and with weeds o’ergrown Yon prostrate walls their awful fate bewail; Low on the ground their topmost spires are thrown, Once friendly marks to guide the wandering sail. The ivy now with rude luxuriance bends Its tangled foliage through the cloistered space O’er the green windows ’mouldering height ascends And fondly clasps it with a last embrace.”

ROMSEY (_Benedictine_).

907, Founded by Edward the Elder--Greatly enlarged and rebuilt in the reign of Edgar, grandson of Edward the Elder, by Ethelwold, Archbishop of Winchester--Benedictine nuns placed there--974, Opened by the King on Christmas day--Almost destroyed by the Danes early in 11th century--Subsequently restored, enjoying many privileges and high repute under the Norman and Plantagenet rule--1129-69, Nave built by Bishop Henry de Blois--15--, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £393, 10s.

The village of Romsey has grown round the venerable abbey church of SS. Mary and Elfleda, where in former days devout women lived their secluded and consecrated lives. There is considerable difference of opinion as to the origin of the name Romsey, for while some authorities see in it a survival of the Roman “Romana insula,” others trace its present form to the Saxon “Rumes-eye”--“the broad island.” Romsey may formerly have been a Roman city, its position making it practically equidistant from other well-known Roman stations, whilst the island site of the town, surrounded by the tributary stream, the Test, affords some support to the theory of the Saxon origin of the name. The abbey minster has been wisely treated at its various restorations, and although definite types of Early English and Decorated work are represented, the dominating Norman characteristics have not been interfered with. Eastern apsidal chapels, peculiar to Norman work, are in both transepts. The nave of eight bays was built by Henry de Blois, Bishop of Winchester in the 12th century, whilst two examples of Norman piscinæ may be seen--one in the south choir aisle and the other on the south side of the choir. The west window is Early English, the central of the three lights being 40 feet high. The doors at the west of the north and south aisles, and the graceful arch which spans the west front of the nave are all beautiful work of this period. There is a bas-relief of the Crucifixion on the outer wall of the south transept. The apsidal chapel of the north transept is now used as a school.

There are many peculiarities in the interior of the church--amongst others, the elevation of the flooring of the aisles above that of the nave, where the nuns had their stalls. Many of these nuns were of royal blood, and in Saxon times the nunnery enjoyed high patronage. Under the rule of the Abbess Marivanna the monastery was blessed with peace, and Marivanna is said to have miraculously warned her successor Elwina of the approach of Sweyn and his band of Danish marauders. Matilda, wife of Henry I. and niece of the Abbess Christina, was educated here; and subsequently Mary, Countess of Boulogne, daughter of King Stephen, was elected abbess. This royal abbess openly defied the Pope and, in spite of her monastic vows, married the son of the Count of Flanders, without obtaining the necessary dispensation from the Vatican. After ten years of married life, the rash lovers were compelled to separate, the power of the Church proving too strong for them. In the reign of Henry III. power to condemn and to hang criminals was restored to the abbess of Romsey--this peculiar privilege having become obsolete. The rules of the monastery were strict and the discipline well maintained, earning for Romsey a reputation for high moral tone, as well as for liberality and learning. A marvellously beautiful piece of the nuns’ handiwork can still be seen in an altar cloth of the present church. It is of green brocaded velvet embroidered with golden stars and with lilies exquisitely worked into the material. This work belongs to the 12th or 13th century and was formerly intended for a cope.

SHERBORNE (_Benedictine_)

705, Ina, King of the West Saxons, makes Sherborne the seat of a Bishopric--998, Bishop Wulfsiu builds a priory--1075, Bishop Herman transfers the See to Sarum--1122, Sherborne and Horton made one house--1139, Roger, Bishop of Salisbury, changes the priory of Sherborne into an abbey, that of Horton being destroyed--Benedictine monks placed within it--1436, The abbey suffers from fire, and is changed in restoration from Norman to Perpendicular style--1539, The monastery surrenders to Henry VIII. Annual revenue, £682, 1s.--Sold to Sir John Horsey for £200--The parishioners of Sherborne buy the church from him for £230--1848-58, Restored at a cost of over £32,000.

The old-fashioned town of Sherborne, or “clear brook,” lies on a gentle slope above the river Yeo, in the vale of Blackmore. The first view of Sherborne is delightful. The narrow, winding, roughly-paved streets make a picturesque setting for the solid and stone-built houses, and there is a general impression of peaceful comfort and prosperity about the place. The surrounding country is rich and fertile; the air clear and invigorating. In monastic days the hillsides were covered with vines, so sheltered was Sherborne from extreme severity of weather. It is only from the south that a good view of the parish church--originally the abbey church of the monastery--can be obtained. From the other sides it is much built in.

This abbey of St Mary’s has undergone many vicissitudes, having been built and rebuilt in remote Saxon times; burnt by the dreaded Sweyn when passing through the town on his march from Exeter to Sarum; nearly razed to the ground and again rebuilt in the 15th century; dissolved in the 16th century, at which time the church was made parochial and purchased by the inhabitants of the town; and finally restored at an enormous cost in the 19th century, with the result that no church of such antiquity was ever in a better state of preservation. Considering the chequered history of the building, its many examples of different architectural periods is not to be wondered at. Perpendicular work is most largely represented--the abbey having been restored in the reign of Henry VI. (when this style was in vogue) after a fire, which devastated particularly the east end of the structure. The Norman period found expression in a peculiar south porch and part of the transepts, while the Lady chapel affords a good example of Early English architecture. The church is cruciform, with transepts, choir, and presbytery. The nave, with its two aisles--the one to the north boasting some Decorated windows--has a beautiful vaulted roof and clerestory. From the central tower there is an extensive view over the undulating country for many miles round Sherborne. In the bell chamber below hang ten bells--a sanctus bell, a peal of eight, and a fire bell. Cardinal Wolsey is said to have given the tenor bell--the largest tenor bell in England ever rung in a peal--to the abbey. It was imported from Tournay, and although recast still bears this distich--

“By Wolsey’s gift I measure time for all; To mirth, to griefe, to church, I serve to call.”

Attached to the church are some ancient chapels, including the Wickham Chantry, where lies Sir John Horsey, also Bishop Roger’s Chantry, with its beautiful Early English window. Sir Thomas Wyatt, the poet, Bishop Asser, tutor to Alfred the Great, more than one of the Saxon kings, and Abbot Clement (1163) (of whose tomb but a fragment remains in the north choir aisle) are interred in the cathedral church. The cloisters were on the north side of the church--the former dormitory is now used as a schoolroom. A portion of the refectory still remains, also the abbey barn and the abbey house--the latter being rebuilt after the Dissolution.

CERNE (_Benedictine_)

987, Founded by Egelwaldus or Ethelwerdus--Dedicated to St Peter--Endowed by Ethelmer, Earl of Cornwall--15--, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £515 17s. 10.

“St Augustine, the monk, after he had converted Kent, travelled with his companions over the rest of King Ethelbert’s dominions, which extended as far as the Northumbers, preaching the Gospel of Christ. And being in Dorsetshire, a great company of people offered themselves for baptism in a place where water was wanting, whereupon by miracle a fountain of water burst out of the ground, which was in the succeeding times called St Augustine’s Fountain. Here Edwaldus, brother of St Edmund the King and martyr, led a hermit’s life and died with a reputation of great sanctity”--(Dugdale’s _Monasticon_).

These circumstances, according to Dugdale, led to the founding of the abbey of Cerne in 987. Other writers, however, hold the opinion that credit is due to the great Apostle of the Anglo-Saxons for an even earlier foundation.

Only the gateway of this once magnificent abbey remains, and near it the well dedicated to St Augustine. The gateway--a large embattled structure--is in a good state of preservation, and even yet possesses some of its former dignity. When excavating on the site of the abbey church, a stone effigy of peculiar interest was found. It is 15th century work, representing a lady, of royal birth possibly, who once held the position of abbess in this monastic house. She carries a staff in her right hand and in her left she holds a book. Fragments of a leaden chalice and paten and encaustic tiles, chiefly of Perpendicular work, have also been found. The present abbey house has been built from the remains of the abbey.

Near the town of Cerne on the southern slope of Trendle Hill there may be seen the outline of a remarkable figure of a man, 180 feet high and with outlines about 2 feet broad. Various traditions are held concerning the origin of this figure; one being that it represents a Saxon deity Heil (Hercules), and another that it serves as a memorial to Cendric, king of the West Saxons; while the most popular legend speaks of the figure as that of a giant, who, after eating some sheep, indulged in a post-prandial nap and was pinioned by the inhabitants of the town, who in this way judged his dimensions. _Chacun à son gout!_--for there is doubtless a grain of truth in all three stories, and failing opportunity and inclination for authentic research, imagination and prejudice may be allowed to have free play.

TAVISTOCK (_Mitred Benedictine_)

961, Founded by Ordgarus, Earl of Devonshire and father of the infamous Elfrida, Queen of Wessex--981, Building completed by Ordulph--King Ethelred endows it with land and liberties--997, Burnt and despoiled by the Danes--11--, Henry I. becomes a benefactor to this house which is re-established--1513, Tavistock becomes a mitred abbey--1539, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £902, 5s. 7d.--The estate given to the first Lord Russell by whom it has descended to the family of Bedford.

Tavistock, like Buckland, is on the Tavy, and here, amidst beautiful country in a trough of hills, stands the skeleton of a formerly magnificent structure, once inhabited by Benedictine monks. Typical Devonshire scenery, both stern and gentle, with its bleak moorland and well-wooded, peaceful valleys, is nowhere more strongly exemplified than in the surroundings of this abbey, for though sheltered in a fertile valley, the dreary Dartmoor lies very close, and stretches away in the far distance, adding a grim and sombre tone to the aspect.

Two gateways, the fratry, and a porch are the principal portions remaining of the abbey. The frater, which has a fine portico, is now used as a Unitarian chapel. This Benedictine house of Tavistock was fortunate in gaining (among other benefactions) the goodwill and support of King Ethelred, Leving, Bishop of Worcester, and of Henry I. A school for the study of Saxon was founded in connection with the abbey soon after its re-establishment, and later, after the introduction of printing into England, a press was set up there and many books, including a Saxon grammar, were published. History and legend combine with exceptional interest in connection with the foundation of Tavistock--attributed to Ordgarus, whose good work was carried on by his son Ordulph, father and brother respectively of Queen Elfrida, who so treacherously and cruelly connived at the murder of her stepson. Ordulph is said to have been of such gigantic stature as to be able to break the bars of gates and to stride a river 10 feet wide. Huge bones, said to be his, may still be seen in Tavistock church. Ordulph endowed the abbey with many lands, which bounties, added to the benefactions of King Ethelred, were the cause of the institution becoming both wealthy and flourishing. After total destruction by the Danes, the abbey was rebuilt only to become more prosperous than ever.

There are still evidences of its former grandeur and of the sumptuous manner in which the dignitaries lived. Risdon relates the following curious circumstance, from which we can gather the unexpectedness of some of the many sources from which wealth accrued to the abbey.

“It is lefte us by tradition,” says he, “that one Childe, of Plimstocke, a man of faire possessions, havinge noe issue, ordained, that wherever he shoulde happen to be buried, to that churche his land should belong. It so fortuned that he, ridinge to hunt in the forest of Dartmoor, casually lost his companye, and his waye; likewise the season beinge so colde and he so benumbed therewithe, that he was enforced to kill his horse, and havinge so killed him, to creepe into his bellye to gett heat; which not beinge able to preserve him, he was there frozen to deathe; and so founde was carried by Tavystokemen to be buried in the churche of the Abbeye; which was not so secretlye done, but the inhabitants got knowledge thereof, which to prevent, they resorted to hinder the carryinge of the corpse on the bridge where they concluded necessitye compelled them to passe. But they were deceived by a guile, for the Tavystokemen forthwith builded a slyghte bridge and passed at another place without resistance, buried the bodye, and enjoyed the lands. In memory whereof, the bridge beareth the name of Gylebridge to this daye.”

John Penryn, elected Abbot of Tavistock in 1522, began his rule in peace and quietness, little thinking that he was to be last abbot of Tavistock. In 1526 this dignitary, according to Oliver’s _Monasticon_, was ordered to supply a servant of the king with a corrody, consisting of “One white loaf, another loaf called Trequarter, a dish called General, another dish of flesh or fish called Pitance, and three pottels, or three halfpence daily; also a furred robe at Christmas yearly, of the same kind as that of our esquires, or the sum of 20 shillings.” Pensions were paid to one John Elyote and William Tyler, M.A., of Oxminster; in the first instance for doing the duties of organist and choirmaster, and in the second for teaching grammar to the boys of the house and for expounding Scripture in the refectory. One wonders why this work had ceased to be done by the monks themselves. The literature of the time shows plainly that monks and friars were losing hold on popular regard--although some of the best houses were still doing earnest work in study and in relieving distress. Cromwell had a large share of public opinion on his side when he suppressed nearly four hundred of the smaller houses. John Penryn, among other wise abbots, expecting the blow, had been putting his house in order, and making arrangements for its future good management. He called his twenty brethren together a month or so before the Act of Parliament for the Suppression was passed, and surrendered his monastery--with its manors, churches, lands, down to books and parchments, into the hands of the king. In doing so he secured fairly good terms for himself and his monks, for the abbot’s pension was equivalent to more than £100 a year in our present money, and the monks, with the exception of one, received pecuniary compensation in proportion.

BUCKLAND (_Cistercian_)

1278, Founded and endowed by Amicia, Countess of Devonshire--Dedicated to St Mary and St Benedict and colonised by Cistercian monks from Quarr Abbey--1541, After the Dissolution the site and demesne sold by Henry VIII. to Sir Richard Grenville--1571, The new owner converts the abbey church into a private residence and afterwards sells it to Sir Francis Drake.

The history of this Cistercian house is of twofold interest, for in addition to its foundation as a religious establishment in the 13th century, it became eventually, after its reconstruction as a manor house, the home and favourite residence of one of England’s greatest naval heroes, Sir Francis Drake. Buckland Abbey, one of the most notable ancient halls of England, is still in the possession of the Drake family, and many relics of the famous explorer are to be seen within its walls, including a Bible which had been his constant companion on all his journeys. The building consists chiefly of stones of the original structure, although totally different in construction.

Of the monastical parts of this foundation, practically only a barn, 180 feet long, and a belfry are still preserved. The fragments in the Vicarage garden are supposed to be all that is left of the last abbot’s house. Still, even in these days, it is quite possible to picture the happy situation and consequent beauty of the monastic demesne. The river Tavy flows past the abbey, which is surrounded on all sides by delightful gardens, including an orchard said to have been the first planted in Devonshire. To the industry and discernment of the monks is greatly due the fame of Devonshire for the excellence of its cider--the greatest care having been taken in those early days to secure the very best grafts from Normandy. Nothing particular is recorded of the fortunes of this religious house. Disgrace fell upon it at one time--the monks having presumed to perform certain ceremonies without the necessary permission of Walter de Bronescombe, Bishop of Exeter, and being consequently excommunicated. From this suspension they were happily relieved by the interposition of Queen Helena.

Buckland Abbey, as in the case of all religious foundations, succumbed to the demands of the insatiable Henry VIII., but was fortunate in eventually passing into the hands of Richard Grenville, who did not utterly remove all vestiges of the original structure when building the present noble house called Buckland Abbey. The connection of the great Drake with the manor house was not limited to his ownership of the old abbey, for here he spent the earliest, and not a few of the later years of his life; while many of his triumphs were won on the waters which washed this lovely county of Devon. It is sad that at the close of a life so full of successful effort, a life almost unparalleled in its daring initiative of action, Sir Francis Drake should not have found a resting place in his beloved home. Failure attended his expedition to the West Indies, where he had hoped to strike a blow at the gigantic power of Spain. By the capture of the Spaniards of one of Drake’s smaller vessels, the plans of the English admiral became known to his enemies and all his schemes were more or less defeated. Bent down and disheartened by failure, Drake succumbed after twenty days’ illness to disease which had broken out among his men, receiving a sailor’s funeral off the shores of Puerto Bello, December 1595.

BUCKFASTLEIGH (_Cistercian_)

Founded and endowed for Cistercian monks by Richard Bauzan in the 12th century on the site of a Saxon Benedictine house--15--, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £466, 11s. 2d.--Used as a stone quarry--1882, French Benedictine monks buy the Gothic mansion built in this century on part of the original site--1886, The abbey partially rebuilt by the monks and the restored portion opened on April 26th.

In an opening of the forest near the river Dart a small band of Cistercian monks built an abbey for their order in the 12th century, hoping in the seclusion of the spot to be free from the prevalent disturbances of those early times. The name Buckfastleigh implies a spot where deer may safely venture to drink, “buckfast”--the fastness of the deer--and “leigh”--a lea or pasture,--and is probably symbolical also of the peace and quiet so essential to the retired lives led by the holy men of old. The actual beginning of this religious house reaches back into antiquity, and in the course of its long history it has twice changed its order of rule. In the Saxon time it was subjected to Benedictine sway, after the Conquest it was refounded for Cistercian monks, and lastly, some years ago, a mansion was built on a portion of the site which has since been inhabited by Benedictine brothers from France who have partially rebuilt the old abbey.

The remains of the 12th century building are somewhat insignificant. They are situated on the north side of the village on the right bank of the river, and consist of a tower covered with ivy, and a large tithe barn, together with a Saxon crypt. A woollen factory now occupies part of the abbey site, and in connection with this fact it is interesting to note that trading in wool was an important source of revenue in the days of the Cistercians. Still further back the woollen fabrics of Rome had obtained special excellence, and in time, the Roman manufactures were carried to the countries in which Roman colonies had been established. In England the making of woollen cloths was introduced by the Romans, but it was in the hands of a few only. The Cistercians at Buckfastleigh were all wool-traders, and to this day there is a road called “Abbot’s Way”--said to be the former post road by which the wool of the community was conveyed to Plymouth for export.