CHAPTER XIII

STREATLEY—BASILDON—PANGBOURNE—MAPLEDURHAM—PURLEY 293

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

SEPARATE PLATES

AT ASHTON KEYNES _Frontispiece_

PAGE

CIRENCESTER CHURCH: SHOWING THE GREAT BUTTRESS 11

THE OLD MILL HOUSE, ASHTON KEYNES 23

THE INFANT THAMES, ASHTON KEYNES 31

APPROACH TO CRICKLADE 35

ST. SAMPSON, CRICKLADE 39

STRAINER-BUTTRESS, ST. SAMPSON’S, CRICKLADE 43

“LERTOLL WELL” 43

THE IRON GIRDER BRIDGE, CASTLE EATON 51

THE OLD BRIDGE, CASTLE EATON 51

CASTLE EATON CHURCH: SHOWING SANCTUS-BELL TURRET 55

THE THAMES AND SEVERN CANAL, NEAR KEMPSFORD 55

KEMPSFORD CHURCH 61

INGLESHAM ROUND HOUSE 67

A STREET IN FAIRFORD 71

LECHLADE 75

FAIRFORD, FROM THE RIVER COLN 79

THE GREAT WEST WINDOW, FAIRFORD, DISPLAYING THE “DOOM” 83

MONUMENT IN THE PARK, FAIRFORD, WHERE THE FAMOUS WINDOWS WERE BURIED 87

KELMSCOTT MANOR 95

KELMSCOTT CHURCH 99

RADCOT BRIDGE 103

A THAMES-SIDE FARM 125

GATEWAY, COTE HOUSE 125

A THAMES-SIDE FARM 129

NEW BRIDGE: THE OLDEST BRIDGE ACROSS THE THAMES 139

NORTHMOOR: CHURCH AND DOVECOTE 143

STANTON HARCOURT: MANOR HOUSE AND CHURCH 147

EARLY ENGLISH SCREEN (UNRESTORED), STANTON HARCOURT 153

CUMNOR CHURCH 163

STATUE OF QUEEN ELIZABETH, CUMNOR CHURCH 167

TOMB OF ANTHONY FORSTER, CUMNOR 173

EYNSHAM 187

IFFLEY CHURCH: NORTH SIDE 201

WEST DOOR, IFFLEY CHURCH 205

THE BRIDGE, NUNEHAM COURTNEY 209

CARFAX CONDUIT, NUNEHAM COURTNEY 213

ABINGDON 217

THE TOWN HALL, ABINGDON 223

ST. HELEN’S, ABINGDON 227

OLD HOUSES, STEVENTON CAUSEWAY 231

SUTTON COURTNEY CHURCH 235

SUTTON COURTNEY 239

INTERIOR, SUTTON COURTNEY CHURCH 239

ANCIENT TIMBER PORCH, LONG WITTENHAM (UNRESTORED) 245

DAY’S LOCK, AND SINODUN HILL 249

CLIFTON HAMPDEN 257

SEDILIA, DORCHESTER ABBEY 261

THE EAST WINDOW, DORCHESTER ABBEY 265

THE JESSE WINDOW (ON THE LEFT), DORCHESTER ABBEY 269

DORCHESTER 273

DORCHESTER ABBEY 273

WALLINGFORD 277

WALLINGFORD: TOWN HALL, AND CHURCH OF ST. MARY-THE-MORE 281

GORING CHURCH 285

HOUR-GLASS STAND, SOUTH STOKE 285

PANGBOURNE CHURCH 291

BASILDON CHURCH 291

WHITCHURCH 297

MAPLEDURHAM MILL 301

MAPLEDURHAM HOUSE 305

ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT

Near Kemble 19

At Ewen 21

At Ashton Keynes 22

Ashton Keynes Mill 27

Old Woodwork, Castle Eaton 58

Norman Porch, Kempsford 60

Inglesham Church 65

Ancient Carving, Lechlade Church 73

Fiends 82, 85

Faringdon Clump 101

St. Stephen 107

Clanfield Church 108

Faringdon Market House 117

Wooden Bridge across the Upper Thames 118

Bampton Church 123

The Kitchen, Stanton Harcourt 150

Besselsleigh: Church and Fragment of Manor House 157

Binsey Church 192

Christ’s Hospital, Abingdon 221

St. Nicholas, Abingdon 225

The “King’s Head and Bell,” Abingdon 233

Norman Belfry-window, Sutton Courtney 238

Little Wittenham 245

Wittenham Clumps 253

_SWEET THAMES, RUN SOFTLY TILL I END MY SONG_

With rushes fenced, with swaying osiers crowned, Old Thames from out the western country hies; By daisy-dappled meads his course is found, Bearing upon his breast brave argosies Of stately lilies. Poets loved to praise The stream whose tide doth calmly flow along, And this the echo of their tuneful lays: “_Sweet Themmes, runne softly till I ende my song._”

Past town and village, cot and lonely farm, His silver stream with murm’ring music goes; Singing glad anthems, full of drowsy charm; Sweet songs of praise, unheeded not by those Who know his banks full well, who often love To roam his course, his marge to pace along, While Spenser’s line re-echoes as we rove: “_Sweet Themmes, runne softly till I ende my song._”

THAMES VALLEY VILLAGES

INTRODUCTORY

The Thames we all know intimately, for the river was discovered by the holiday-maker in the ’seventies of the nineteenth century; but we do not all know the villages of the Thames Valley, and it was partly to satisfy a long-cherished curiosity on this point, and partly to make holiday in some of the little-known nooks yet remaining, that this tour was undertaken.

To one who lives, or exists, or resides—the reader is invited to choose his own epithet—beside the lower Thames, there must needs at times come a longing to know that upper stream whence these mighty waters originate, to find that fount where “Father Thames” starts forth in hesitating, infantile fashion; to seek that spot where the stream, instead of flowing, merely trickles. To such an one there comes, with every recurrent spring, the longing to penetrate to the Beyond, away past where the towns and villages, the water-works and breweries cluster thickly beside the river-banks; above the town of Reading, the Biscuit Town, and town of sauce and seeds; beyond the fashionable summer scene of Henley Regatta, and past the city of Oxford, to the Upper River and its unconventionalised life.

When spring comes and wakes the meadows with delight, and the osiers and the rushes again feel life stirring in their dank roots, the old schoolboy feeling of curiosity, of mystery, of a desire for exploration, springs anew. You walk down, it may be, to some slipway or draw-dock by Richmond or Teddington, or wander along those shores contemplating the high-water-marks left by the late winter floods, which not even the elaborate locking of the river seems able to prevent; and observing the curious line of refuse of every description brought down by the waters, and now left, high and dry, a matted mass of broken rushes, water weeds, twigs, string and the like, marvel at the wealth of corks that displays itself there. Children have been known to make expedition towards the distant hills, seeking that place where the rainbow touches the ground; for the sly old legend tells us that on the spot where the glorious bow meets the earth there lies buried a crock of gold. An equally speculative quest would be to fare forth and seek the Place whence the Corks Come. There (not for children, but for “grown-ups”) should be, you think, the Land of Heart’s Desire.

There are, I take it, three chief things that the world of men most ardently wishes for. An unregenerate man’s first desires are to wealth, to a woman, and to a drink; or, in the words attributed to Martin Luther:

Who loves not woman, wine, and song, He is a fool his whole life long;

and the valley of the Thames, from Oxford to Richmond, would seem, by the evidence of these millions of corks of all kinds, to be a place flowing with champagne, light wines, all kinds of mineral waters, and bottled beers.

Corks, rubber rings from broken mineral-water bottles, and big bungs that hint of two-or three-gallon jars, abound; these last telling in no uncertain manner of the magnificent thirsts inspired among anglers who sit in punts all day long, and do nothing but keep an eye on the float, and maintain the glass circulating.

A thirsty person wandering by these bestrewn towing-paths must sigh to think of the exquisite drinks that have gone before, leaving in this multitude of corks the only evidence of their evanescent existence. Shall we not seek it, this land of the foaming champagne, that comes creaming to the brim of the generous glass; shall we not hope to locate those shores, far or near, where the bottled Bass, poured into the ready tumbler, tantalises the parched would-be drinker of it in the all-too-slowly-subsiding mass of froth that lies between him and his expectant palate? Shall we not, at least if we be of “temperance” leanings, quaff the cool and refreshing “stone-bottle” ginger-beer; or, failing that, the skimpy and deleterious “mineral-water” “lemonade” that is chiefly compounded of sugar and carbonic-acid gas, and blows painfully and at high-pressure through the titivated nostrils? Shall we not—— but hold there! Waiter, bring me—what shall it be?—an iced stone-bottle ginger!

That was the brave time, the golden age of the river, when, rather more than a generation ago, the discovery of the Thames as a holiday haunt was first made. The fine rapture of those early tourists, who, deserting the traditional seaside lounge for a cruise down along the placid bosom of the Thames, from Lechlade to Oxford, and from Oxford to Richmond, were (something after the Ancient Mariner sort) the first to burst into these hitherto unknown reaches, can never be recaptured. The bloom has been brushed from off the peach by the rude hands of crowds of later visitors. The waterside inns, once so simple under their heavy beetling eaves of thatch, are now modish, instead of modest; and Swiss and German waiters, clothed in deplorable reach-me-down dress-suits and lamentable English of the Whitechapel-atte-Bowe variety, have replaced the neat-handed—if heavy-footed—Phyllises, who were almost in the likeness of those who waited upon old Izaak Walton, two centuries and a quarter ago.

To-day, along the margin of the Thames below Oxford, some expectant mercenary awaits at every slipway and landing-place the arrival of the frequent row-boat and the plenteous and easily-earned tip; and the lawns of riparian villas on either hand exhibit a monotonous repetition of “No Landing-Place,” “Private,” and “Trespassers Prosecuted” notices; while side-channels are not infrequently marked “Private Backwater.”

All the villages immediately giving upon the stream have suffered an equally marked change, and have become uncharacteristic of their old selves, and converted into the likeness of no other villages in this our England, in these our times. There is, for example, a kind of theatrical prettiness and pettiness about Whitchurch, over against Pangbourne; and instead of looking upon it as a real, living three-hundred-and-sixty-five-days-in-the-year kind of place, you are apt to think of what a pretty “set” it makes; and, doing so, to speak of its bearings in other than the usual geographical terms of east and west, north and south; and to refer to them, indeed, after the fashion of the stage, as “P.” or “O.P.” sides.

But if we find at Whitchurch a meticulous neatness, a compact and small-scale prettiness eminently theatrical, what shall we say of its neighbour, Pangbourne, on the Berkshire bank of the river? That is of the other modern riverain type: an old village spoiled by the expansion that comes of being situated on a beautiful reach of the Thames, and with a railway station in its very midst. Detestable so-styled “villas,” and that kind of shops you find nowhere else than in these Thames-side spots, have wrought Pangbourne into something new and strange; and motor-cars have put the final touch of sacrilege upon it.

Perhaps you would like to know of what type the typical Thames-side village shop may be, nowadays? Nothing easier than to draw its portrait in few words. It is, to begin with, inevitably a “Stores,” and is obviously stocked with the first object of supplying boating-parties and campers with the necessaries of life, as understood by campers and boating-parties. As tinned provisions take a prominent place in those holiday commissariats, it follows that the shop-windows are almost completely furnished with supplies of tinned everything, festering in the sun. For the rest, you have cheap camp-kettles, spirit-stoves, tin enamelled cups and saucers, and the like utensils, hammocks and lounge-chairs.

Thus the modern riverside village is unpleasing to those who like to see places retain their old natural appearance, and dislike the modern fate that has given it a spurious activity in a boating-season of three months, with a deadly-dull off-season of nine other months every year. We may make shift to not actively dislike these sophisticated places in summer, but let us not, if we value our peace of mind, seek to know them in winter; when the sloppy street is empty, even of dogs and cats; when rain patters like small-shot on the roof of the inevitable tin-tabernacle that supplements the over-restored, and spoiled, parish church; and when the roar of the swollen weir fills the air with a thudding reverberance. Pah!

The villas, the “maisonettes,” are empty: the gardens draggle-tailed; the “Nest” is “To Let”; the “Moorings” “To be Sold”; and a general air of “has been” pervades the place, with a desolating feeling that “will again be” is impossible.

But let us put these things behind us, and come to the river itself; to the foaming weir under the lowering sky, where such a head of water comes hurrying down that no summer frequenter of the river can ever see. There is no dead, hopeless season in nature; for although the trees may be bare, and the groves dismantled, the wintry woods have their own beauty, and even in mid-winter give promise of better times.

But along the uppermost Thames, from Thames Head to Lechlade and Oxford, the waterside villages are still very much what they have always been. All through the year they live their own life. Not there do the villas rise redundant, nor the old inns masquerade as hotels, nor chorus-girls inhabit at weekends, in imitative simplicity. A voyage along the thirty-two miles of narrow, winding river from Lechlade to Oxford has no incidents more exciting than the shooting of a weir, or the watching of a moor-hen and her brood.

Below Oxford, we have but to adventure some little way to right or left of the stream, and there, in the byways (for main roads do not often approach the higher reaches of the river), the unaltered villages abound.