Chapter 6

READ CAREFULLY. To make this test of greatest value to you, write fully from your personal standpoint and experience. Try as many methods given in the text as your time will allow so that you may ask for explanation if the descriptions are not clear to you. Methods are many; if you do not agree with these given, suggest better ones.

1. (a) What are the requisites for good dressmaking? (b) How does dressmaking differ from white sewing in make, finish, and ornamentation?

2. From your point of view what do you consider a successful garment?

3. Give methods of altering patterns.

4. Give briefly the cutting and making of a wool garment from patterns: (a) waist, (b) sleeve, (c) skirt, (d) collar, including methods of stitching, pressing and finish, stating how patterns should be placed on lining and outside materials.

5. How may pressing be done to give the best results? What garments require little or no pressing, and why?

6. (a) State some of the principles and purposes of ornament. (b) What is your idea of ornament applied to garments? (c) Give some errors in ornamentation not named in text.

7. Cut from magazines illustrations showing your idea of good and faulty ornamentation in dress. Give reason for your opinion.

8. Illustrate in some way, either by picture, drawing, embroidery, braid, or stitching, some design appropriate for ornament work on neck or sleeve.

9. Where should ornament be placed, and why?

10. (a) Give your idea of appropriate design on textiles. (b) The advantage and disadvantage of plain materials.

11. Make a color card of silk, wool, paper or raffia showing colors that contrast. (b) Colors that harmonize.

12. What colors do you find satisfactory for your own wear, and why?

13. What materials are best suited for infants' garments? (b) What can you say in regard to children's clothing?

14. What is your opinion of the care of clothing? (b) What experience have you had in cleaning (a) cotton, (b) wool, (c) linen, (d) silk, (e) velvet?

15. Do you consider it economy to repair garments? Can you suggest better methods than those given in the text?

16. If possible make some garment, shirt waist, skirt, or simple dress while studying this lesson and describe in detail how you went about it, the result, time taken, total cost. Tell why you selected the design, the color, the material.

17. Have you found the ready made garments satisfactory in underwear and dresses?

18. Tell of some of your failures in dressmaking and give the reasons for your lack of success.

19. What methods, new to you, have you tried in connection with this lesson? What questions have you to ask?

20. Can you add any suggestions that would be helpful to others in this work?

21. Wherein have the lessons been of practical value to you?

22. _For Teachers._ Draw up an outline for a course in sewing to combine two considerations: (a) adaptability to the child's interests and capacities, (b) orderly sequence in the technical part.

Note: After completing the answers, sign your full name.

REFERENCES: ORNAMENT AND DESIGN

Bachelder--Principles of Design in America. ($3.00.)

Brown--History of Decorative Art. ($1.25.)

Carter, Mrs. H. J.--Historic Ornament in Color. (15c. a sheet). Prang.

Clifford--Period Decoration. ($3.00.)

Crane--Claims of Decorative Art. (Out of print.)

Crane--Line and Form. ($2.25.)

Daniels--Teaching of Ornament. ($1.50.)

Day--Application of Ornament. ($1.25.)

Day--Nature in Ornament. ($4.00.)

Day--Ornamental Design. (Out of print.)

Day--Planning of Ornament. (Out of print.)

Day--Decorative Design of all Ages. ($0.40.)

Day--Ornament and Its Application. ($3.25.)

Day--Ornamental Design, Anatomy of Pattern, Planning of Ornament. ($3.00.)

Day--Some Principles of Everyday Art. (Out of print.)

Glazier--Manual of Historic Ornament. (New edition in press.)

Hulme--Birth and Development of Ornament. (Out of print.)

Jones--Grammar of Ornament. ($18.00.)

Prang--Art and Ornament in Egypt. ($1.50.)

_Note_--The books out of print may be found in some public libraries.

REFERENCES: HISTORY OF COSTUME

Earle--Costume of Colonial Times. ($1.25.)

Earle--Two Centuries of Costume in America, 2 vols. ($2.50 each.)

Evans--Chapters on Greek Dress. (Out of print.)

Fairholt--Costume of England, 2 vols. ($1.50 each.)

Hill--History of English Dress. (Out of print.)

McClellan--Historic Dress in America. ($10.00.)

Planchet--History in British Costume. ($1.50.)

Quegly--What Dress Makes of Us. ($1.25.)

Racinet--Costume. ($2.00.)

Rhead--Chats on Costume. ($1.50.)

Schild--Old English Peasant Costume from Boadicea to Queen Victoria. (Out of print.)

SUPPLEMENTARY PROGRAM ARRANGED FOR CLASS STUDY ON TEXTILES AND CLOTHING

MEETING I

(Study pages 1-59)

PRIMITIVE METHODS

Endeavor to obtain a Colonial spinning-wheel in working order, and get some one to operate it.

If possible, obtain samples of weaving done on a hand loom.

Examine a hand-loom if possible. They may be seen at the manufacturers of rag and remade carpets.

_References:_

Woman's Share in Primitive Culture, Mason, Chapter III, The Weaver. ($1.75, postage 16c.)

Colonial Days in Old New England, by Earle. ($1.25, postage 12c.)

TEXTILE FIBRES

Collect an exhibit of raw fibres and fibres in process of manufacture. Send to the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Department of Botany, Washington, D. C., for small samples; to manufacturers of thread; to friends in manufacturing towns.

Test the various fibres by burning. Examine under a microscope with a small hand-glass, if greater power cannot be obtained. Try warm acid--sulphuric, hydrochloric, or oxalic--on the fibres; let the fibres dry. Also try a solution of caustic soda on the fibres.

_References:_

The Textile Fibres, by Matthews. ($3.50, postage 16c.)

Textile Fibres and Cotton Fibre, pamphlets of the American School of Correspondence. (50c. each, postage 4c. each.)

Send for all the Government Bulletins mentioned in the Bibliography, page 104. Note that the _free_ bulletins are obtained simply by addressing the Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., but _the sale_ bulletins only by sending coin or money order to the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C.

MEETING II

(Study pages 59-102)

MODERN METHODS

Visit a textile mill if possible, after studying the text.

Practice home dyeing. Read carefully the directions given by the manufacturers of the dyes. See the booklet "Diamond Dyes," to be obtained at many drug stores, or send for it to Wells Richardson, Burlington, Vermont.

_References:_

Text-books of the American School of Correspondence--especially Textile Chemistry and Dyeing. (Parts I, II, III, and IV, postage 4c. each.)

The Dyeing of Textile Fabrics, by Hummell. ($1.75, postage 12c.)

Bleaching and Calico Printing (containing samples), by Duerr. ($4.00, postage 14c.)

WEAVES AND FABRICS

Show as many different kinds of weaves as possible. Separate the threads and examine under a hand microscope.

Get the local dry-goods or department store to co-operate with you in getting up an exhibit of samples of standard goods--cotton, woolen, worsted, linen, and silk. Label each sample with the width and price.

Test some of the samples of wash goods for fastness to washing and light, by washing in warm water and soap (or boiling in the soap and water) and expose to sunlight all day for three or four days. _Keep a part of each sample for comparison._

(Select a composite set of answers to the Test Questions on Part I and send to the School, with report on the supplemental work done and Meetings I and II.)

MEETING III

(Study pages 107-123)

SEWING: PLAIN STITCHES

Send to manufacturers for samples showing the process of manufacture of pins, needles, etc.

Demonstrate different ways of making the same stitches; discuss best methods.

EMBROIDERY

Show how all the embroidery stitches are made.

Get up an exhibit of all kinds of embroidery, including Oriental, Japanese, old samplers, etc.

Have members make Model I, First Series.

_References:_

Home and School Sewing, by Patton. ($0.60, postage 6c.)

School Needlework, by Hapgood. ($0.75, postage 6c.)

Manual of Exercise in Hand Sewing, by Blair. ($1.25, postage 10c.)

_Topic:_

Educational Value of Sewing in the Public Schools.

Methods. See "A Sewing Course," by Mary S. Woolman, Introduction ($3.50, postage 20c.), and "The Teaching of Domestic Science in the United States of America," by Alice Ravenhill, pages 9-10, 43-46. ($0.75, postage 12c.)

MEETING IV

(Study pages 123-165)

HEMS, SEAMS, FASTENINGS, DARNING, PATCHING

Have all members make models II, III, IV, and V.

Previously assign members to furnish models or examples of all other hems, seams, fastenings, patches, darns, etc., illustrated or described in the text, and as many more as possible.

MACHINE SEWING

Get the local sewing machine agent to give a demonstration of the workings of the attachments of the machine.

(Select models and answers to Test Questions on Part II and send them to the School, with a report of Meetings III and IV.)

MEETING V

(Study pages 167-200)

DRESSMAKING

Get the local dry-goods or department store to lend different kinds of dress forms.

Show how patterns are altered to suit the figure. (See text and "Dressmaking Up to Date.")

As many as possible cut out and begin making a simple shirt-waist or skirt. Show finished garment at next meeting, giving accurate account of cost and time spent.

_References:_

Dressmaking Up to Date, The Butterick Co. ($0.25, postage 8c.)

Sewing and Garment Drafting, by Margaret L. Blair. ($1.25, postage 12c.)

MEETING VI

(Study pages 205-228)

CONSTRUCTION AND ORNAMENT IN DRESS; COLOR

Collect illustrations showing good and faulty ornamentation.

Procure samples of fabrics showing good and faulty ornamentation.

Make a color card showing contrast and harmony of color. (See Question 11.)

_References_: See list on pages 234 and 235.

CHILDREN'S CLOTHING

Get up an exhibit of simple and satisfactory clothing for children, including color, material, style and make.

Discuss children's clothes in reference to laundering.

CARE AND REPAIR OF CLOTHES

Show examples of successful repairing.

Try some of the methods of cleaning. (See, also _Chemistry of the Household_ pages 73-84.)

(Select answers to Test Questions on Part III and send them to the School, with report on Meetings V and VI.)

INDEX

Adulteration of linen, 87

Alpaca, 90

Altering sleeve patterns, 194

Angora wool, 39

Aniline dyes, 79

Arrow heads, 123

Back stitch, 112

Basting, 108

Bibliography, 103, 229

Bleaching, 78

Bobbin, 19

Boning waist, 192

Bow, the, 208

Burling, 83

Bust form, 168

Button holes, 141 large, 145 making, 144

Buttons, sewing on, 145

Carding, 59

Care of clothing, 219

Cassimere twills, 73, 75

Cat stitch, 116

Catch stitch, 116

Chain stitch, 116

Checks, 213

Children's clothes, 216, 217

Cleaning, 59, 221

Collars, 198 putting on, 199

Color in dress, 214

Colors, mordant, 79

Combing, 60

Conventional designs, 213

Costumes, references, 234

Cotton, 29 boles, 32 fibers, 34

Cotton goods, 85 home of, 30 Nankin, 34 sea island, 30 upland, 30

Cross stitch, 120

Cuffs, 196

Cutting table, 168

Darning, 155 on machine, 158 over net, 157

Decorations, placing, 208

Distaff, 12

Double cloth, 77

Draped waist, 192

Drawing tapes, 140

Dressmaking, 167

Dyeing, 78 home, 80

Dyes, aniline, 79

Dyestuffs, natural, 80

Embroidery, 204 as ornament, 204 eyelet, 122 shadow, 123 stitches, 114

Extension hem, 227

Eyelet embroidery, 122

Eyelets, 149

Fabrics, 85 list of, 96-102 names of, 94 primitive, 27 width of, 93

Facing, bias, 141 skirt, 179

Fastening the thread, 109

Fastenings, 141

Feather stitch, 118

Fibers, 29 cotton, 29 flax, 43 silk, 53 wool, 37

Finishes, 139

Finishing skirt, 179 seams, 196 waist, 192

Finishing, woolens, 83

Fitting, 173, 193 sleeves, 190 waists, 190

Flax, 43 fibers, 47 hackling, 44, 47

Flocks, 83

Folding garments, 220

French hem, 127 knots, 119 seam, 131

Fulling, 83

Fur, 40

Gathering, 111, 138

Gathers, whipped, 127

Gauging, 112

Gigging, 83

Gingham, 86

Grease spots, 122

Hand sewing, 107

Harmony in dress, 215

Harness, the, 70

Heddle, 17

Hemp, 50

Hem stitch, 118

Hems, 123 bias, 124 faced, 124 flannel, 127 French, 127 folding, 123

Hems, rolled, 126

Herringbone stitch, 116

Home dyeing, 80

Hook and eyes, 147

Hydroscopic moisture, 42

Jacquard loom, 70

Joining lace, 160

Jute, 50

Knit goods, 72

Lace, design of, 208

Laces, use of, 207

Laundering, 225

Lengthening garments, 226

Linen, 86 adulteration of, 87 characteristics of, 47

Lining, cutting, 188

Loading silk, 56

Looms, 17 Colonial, 19, 21, 22 development of, 19 diagram of, 23 fly shuttle, 26 four harness, hand, 21 Jacquard, 70 Japanese, 20 modern, 25, 69 Navajo, 18 Swedish hand, 24

Loop stitch, 116

Madder bleach, 78

Machine darning, 158 sewing, 162

Mending, 83, 225

Mitering embroidery, 158

Modern methods, 59

Mohair, 90

Mordant colors, 79

Muslin, 85

Nankin cotton, 34

Natural dyestuffs, 80

Olona, 53

Ornament, 203 embroidery as, 204 fitness of, 209 flowers as, 205 of textiles, 212

Ornamental stitches, 108, 114

Ornamentation, errors in, 204

Outline stitch, 114

Overcasting, 114, 142

Oversewing, 113

Packing clothing, 220

Passementerie, 206

Patching, 149

Patterns, 171 altering, 173 cloth, 174 lengthening, 173 pinning, 176 placing, 176 selection of, 171 testing, 174 use of, 172

Picking, 59

Piled fabrics, 91

Plackets, 135 faced, 137

Plaids, 213

Plain material, 212

Plush, 77

Pressing, 201 board, 168, 201 wet, 202

Primitive methods, 3

Printing, 81 block, 81 machine, 81 warps, 82

Ramie, 50

Raw silk, 56

Reed, 19

Reeling silk, 54

Repairing, 225

Retting flax, 45

Roving, 61

Running stitch, 110

Sateen weave, 79

Satin, 91 stitch, 121

Scouring agents, 41

Sea island cotton, 30

Seams, 128 beaded, 131 felled, 128 flannel, 135 French, 131 lapped, 133 slot, 131

Serges, 88

Seven-gored skirt, 172

Sewing, hand, 107 machine, 162

Sewing machines, 162 care of, 162 types of, 162 use of, 164

Shadow embroidery, 123

Sheep, 39

Shirt waists, cutting, 182 plan for making, 183

Shuttle, 19

Silk, 53 artificial, 58 boiling off, 56 fiber, 53 loading, 56, 90 production, 53 raw, 56 twilled, 91

Silk, wash, 91

Silk worm, 54

Silks, 90

Singeing, 78

Skirt, 172 band, 179

Skirt binding, 180 braid, 180 making, 177 placket, 178 plan of making, 173 stiffening, 178

Sleeve making, 183 patterns, 194

Sleeves, cutting, 194, 195 finish of, 197 pressing, 198 putting in, 197

Slip-stitching, 125

Slot seams, 131

Speck dye, 83

Spindle, 6 whorl, 6

Spinning, 3, 59 primitive, 3 wheel, 12 with spindle, 6

Stains, 221

Stitches, 107 ornamental, 108, 114 plain, 107

Stockinet undergarments, 216

Stripes, 213

Stroking gathers, 111

Table linen, 87

Teazels, 83

Textile arts, origin of, 3

Textiles, 85, 212 design of, 212 list of, 96, 102 ornament of, 212 weaves, 72

Texture, 214

Trimming, 210

Tweeds, 88 Harris, 89

Twills, 74 Cassimere, 73, 75 uneven, 75

Tucked waist, 185

Tucking, 108

Tucks, 128

Unity in dress, 211

Upland cotton, 30

Velvet, 92 weave of, 77

Velveteen, 92

Waists, 185 lined, 186 plan for making, 187 repairing, 227 tucked, 185

Wash silk, 91

Warping, 69

Weave, 72 diagrams, 73 plain, 73 basket, 76 double cloth, 77 rib, 76 sateen, 76 twill, 74 velvet, 77

Weaving, 14, 69

Wet Pressing, 202

Wheel spinning, 12

Whipping stitch, 113

Whorl, spindle, 6

Widths of fabrics, 93

Wool, 37 characteristics of, 37 fiber, 36 quality of, 38 scouring, 40 sorting, 40 value for clothing, 37

Woolens, 88

Worsteds, 88

Yokes, 20

End of Project Gutenberg's Textiles and Clothing, by Kate Heintz Watson