Part 5

I should rather conceive that the metal was brass but whatever it was it would have been of more considerable value in the eyes of the antiquarian. Not far from this place he pointed to a number of loose stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold tongues {75a} as many pieces of gold of that shape he said were formerly picked up here. From the formation here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment in pronouncing they were brass celts or British weapons and as a farther (fol. 118_a_) confirmation of this opinion not a great way distant facing the south we traced the remains of a large British {75b} town. Here about forty or fifty foundations such as we have before noticed at Tre Evan may be clearly discerned some lying in a cluster together others standing separate, others again having a square form the name given to these remains scattered over the island we were informed by our intelligent companion by Cyteau {76a} Gwydellhod not Irishmens huts as some have translated it but the houses of the wild inhabitants. A spring rising near the spot still has a term of the same signification being stiled the well of the wild inhabitants. Some vestiges of similar {76b} buildings are to be traced to the north side of the hill, as also on the rising ground facing that part of Bodafon we have just noticed. It is natural to suppose that when the island was covered with wood, the inhabitants would fix their residence on elevated stations as a security (fol. 120) against their enemies and beasts of prey we may suppose the lower parts of these huts were alone built of stone and that branches of trees and earth formed the covering like those at present used amongst the lowest orders of Irish peasantry and why may not this people have retained the mode observed by the ancient Britons from whence they derive their origin. The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east commanding almost the whole circuit of the island. Here a beacon used to be lighted in case of invasion or to convey signals to the opposite coast of Carnarvonshire although probably it is many years since anything of the kind was used, yet the stones and the earth bear evident marks of the fire. It blew so hard to-day that it was with difficulty we kept on our legs on the high ground but on descending we were sheltered from the wind and had a pleasant walk to Penhros Llûgwy church an ancient building about half a mile to the south east of Bodafon hills. On a (fol. 120_a_) rough flat stone in the church yard I traced the following inscription, hic jacet Macuceceti. {77a} Mr. Rowlands, upon what authority I know not, supposes this to have been an inscription on Mechell or Macutius bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain, who he says was buried here. We also observed two or three flat grave {77b} stones of a rough gritty substance about six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in the same manner as those I noticed last year at Furness abbey. But what seemed most curious at first sight was an inscription marked on a flat stone {78} lying on the ground whose characters I recognised to be similar to what I had observed on the font at Bridekirk in Cumberland mixed with Saxon letters of a much later date. On observing Mr. Richards smile after I had finished my copy I requested he would candidly tell me what the inscription meant and in what character (fol. 122) it was written for I could make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to relieve me from my perplexity by explaining that it had been executed within these sixty years by a shepherds boy at the desire of a gentleman who employed various alphabets to compose it. The words are Welsh to this effect Yma hefyd mae Gorwedd Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70. Here also lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70. This I suppose was intended as a stumbling block for antiquarians the idea being probably suggested by Mr. Rowland’s Macutius in the neighbourhood. Like Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I here had to regret the loss of my walking stick for although I dispatched our attendant and clerk in quest of it before we had proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I had copied the inscription, it was vanished. I shrewdly suspect that the clerk had taken a fancy to it as there was no other person in the church yard excepting our own party. However as he supplied me with something as a substitute it (fol. 122_a_) did not longer delay our march which brought us in the course of half an hour to Llûgwy house an ancient mansion now rented by a farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly invited us within doors and refreshed us with a good luncheon of bread and cheese and some excellent ale. We then walked a short distance from the house to a rising ground overgrown with timber trees and coppice wood but still there was sufficient opening to enable us to trace a number of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of a more perfect form and larger dimensions than any we had yet seen. They appear to be surrounded by a breast work of massive stones stuck edgeways in the ground evidently intended as a fortification which was probably strengthened by a mound and sharp stakes. The habitations here are very contiguous the entrances easily traced as also a communication {79} from one to the other. This is a strong confirmation of the historical account of the Aborigines who are said in the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126) thing in common.

[Picture: No. 53. Stones in Penhros Llûgwy Churchyard]

[Picture: No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwy, North-East Side]

We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very extensive fortress on the top of Penmaenmawr which Mr. Richards says resembles very much the one before us. Not far distant facing the ocean is a cromlech the upper stone six yards long, five yards and a half wide and three yards {80a} thick. One end rests upon a bank {80b} of earth and the other is supported by four or five small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath about two feet high.

[Picture: No. 55. Llûgwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.]]

Near this we noticed the remains of Llûgwy chapel now entirely dilapidated. Walked hence to Llanalgo church said to have been built in the year six hundred and five. On the north wall near the altar is a mutilated monument {80c} of a knight in armour kneeling before an altar said to be that of Sir John Bodville a gentleman whose residence was in this parish. On digging a few years ago the foundation of the new parsonage the workmen discovered a square vault formed of a solid composition resembling thick (fol. 126_a_) tile supposed to be an ancient burying place. Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some years says he has in his possession English coins of Edward {81} and Mary found in digging in the church yard. Leaving the church we adjourned to a farm house close by where the party was again supplied with bread cheese and ale. Although I did not much admire this delay we were obliged to comply with Mr. Richards’s request. Continued here nearly an hour during which time a poor blind boy attempted to amuse us by playing on the harp but having received but few instructions was but an indifferent performer, our attendant then took the instrument and played some of the Welsh airs with tolerable execution. The poor boy in the meantime exhibited such strong marks of surprize mixed with mortification as would have supplied an admirable subject for the pen of Hogarth.

[Picture: No. 56. Cromlech Allcho]

After having given something to him we were not a little glad to take our leave it being (fol. 127) past two, and there was a doubt whether we could procure accommodation for the night nearer than Beaumaris at least twelve miles distant. Passed a stone about seven feet high nine long and three thick this is placed edgeways on a flat rock, another about the same shape and dimensions lies on the ground near at hand. A third formerly placed across has been destroyed within the memory of some of the inhabitants. These stones are called Cromlech but I should rather imagine like those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had constituted the chamber of a large Carnedd. Proceeding hence we walked over a natural layer of lime stones extending for some acres along the surface of the ground this is called Marian Glâs a term expressive of flat grey stones. We here met with a countryman who joined our party and in our progress pointed out some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol. 127_a_) a rising ground called Bryn {82} ddiol, and from hence we saw a hill about two miles to the westward named Rhos Fawr where he said were some other remains and cromlechs but this lay so much out of our direction we could not visit them. At Marian Mawr Mr. Richards quitted us. We were indeed much indebted to him for his polite attention in accompanying us thus far for I am convinced that without his assistance we should have passed many of these curious remains the common people in general being ignorant of everything of the kind. This gentleman seems to have paid a good deal of attention to antiquities and has promised to favour me with a letter on the subject on my return home. But I could not help remarking in the course of conversation that superstition does not seem confined to the ignorant and illiterate for he told me very gravely (fol. 129) that there were companies of fairies still existing in Wales and particularly in Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them from their haunts. He also spoke of the knockers supposed to be little invisible beings favourable to the miners who by making a variety of sounds underground lead them to those places where there is the greatest quantity of ore. I could only be silent when I heard these opinions advanced but he has directed me to a book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of Pontypool on the subject. At Marian Mawr are six large stones of the same kind as the substrata rising above seven feet. They have obtained the name of cromlech but I rather imagine them to be natural productions.

Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded to Red Wharf. Passed more of the Cytiau Gwyddelhod at a place called Trescifion. Near here is an ancient mansion house called Glynn now belonging to Mr. Meyricke (fol. 129_a_) the name of Glynn a title common in many parts of Wales I find implies a situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with trees. Not far beyond was a house in which Mr. Hughes resided before his vast acquisition in the Parys mountain. Arrived at Red Wharf a little before dark and the house promised but very bad accommodations we were obliged to put up with them. Our eating was of the least importance but on retiring to my sleeping apartment although the woman had provided clean linen the _toute ensemble_ was so dirty I passed the night without taking off my cloaths.

SUNDAY, DECR. 12

We were not sorry to leave this wretched alehouse as soon as there was sufficient light to see our direction three miles across the sands of Traeth Gôch to the village of Llanddona whose church stands on an eminence above the (fol. 130) bay and was first founded by Ddona grandson of Brychfael ys Cythrog (who fought the Saxons when the monks of Bangor Iscoed were slaughtered) anno six hundred and ten. About half a mile to the left are the traces of a large entrenchment supposed to have been thrown up by the Britons as a defence against the northern invaders. This is on a rising knoll called Dyn Sylwyn {84a} or Round Table Hill. This we had not leisure to see being obliged to hasten to Llainestan {84b} about a mile in the contrary direction in order to have sufficient time to notice an ancient monument, mentioned by Mr. Rowlands, before service began. Fortunately the church door was open and we met with no interruption during the half hour we stayed there. The object in question covering a cenotaph rose about two feet above the pavement near the communion table. A person in a sacerdotal habit holding a pastoral crook in his right hand and in his left a scroll is here represented, whereon is inscribed (fol. 131_a_) hic jacet sanctus Jestinus cui &c., round the border of the slab towards the head the characters in parts are much defaced but I read Gryffydd ap Gwyllym in oblationem istam imaginem pro salute animarum suarum. The style of workmanship appears very similar to that of Pabo post Prid and by the way tends to confirm the opinion we there formed that the sculpture is many centuries posterior to the time of the persons they are designed to represent and offered as an oblation to the church for the purpose of securing the favour and mediation of the patron saint. That the family of this Gryffyd ap Gwyllym resided in this neighbourhood appears from a document still extant dated at Rhayder Gadog June the twentieth in the twenty seventh year of Henry the sixth by which seven villaines or vassals were made over and granted by Ednyfed Fychan ap Ednyfed Dafydd ap Gryffydd and Howell ap Dafydd according to the feudal system still obtaining to (fol. 133) William Gryffyd ap Gwylym free tenant of Porthamel probably the very same person who presented the effigies of St. Jesten to the church. This Jesten founder of the church is supposed to have been the son of Gerennius or Geraint grandson of Constantine duke of Cornwall successor to king Arthur. The font is certainly very ancient probably coeval with the original building. The present structure differs nothing from other Welsh Churches. From hence proceeded across a swampy heath for a mile and a half to an old mansion called Fotti {85} Rhydderch or Roderick’s summer house having been directed thither to see an inscription cut over an arched chimney piece in the kitchen. The characters appear to be about the time of Henry the eighth or his successor and are read Si deus nobiscum quis contra nos. This place formerly the residence of a gentleman’s family like most others we have had occasion to notice in the island is now tenanted by a farmer (fol. 133_a_) who has a fine family of nine children. The eldest a lad of only eleven years old engaged to conduct us to the cromlechs at Cremlyn and Trefor. At the former place there is little worthy of notice but at the latter I took two sketches of a very perfect cromlech the upper stone measuring about three yards across supported by two uprights the larger six feet high the other not above four and a half which cause the cap stone to recline in a slanting direction. Another long stone now lying on the ground appears to have been formerly used as a supporter. Near at hand also are three or four flat stones lying promiscuously.

[Picture: No. 58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn]

[Picture: No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn]

[Picture: No. 60. Cromlech at Trefor]

[Picture: No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor]

Whether these were ever employed in the formation of a second cromlech like at Praes Addfed {86a} I cannot pretend to determine. About two fields from hence in our way to Penymynnedd {86b} we traced one of very small dimensions, the cap stone not being above a yard across and its two supporters a foot and a half high.

(fol. 136) After a toilsome walk we arrived at Penymynnedd a place formerly in possession of the Tudor family whose descendant Owen became of such consequence in the British history by marrying Catherine widow of Henry the fifth. In the church we perceived a handsome marble monument said to belong to that family whereon are the effigies of a knight in armour with his lady by his side. There being no inscription we could not determine its exact date but from the workmanship I should imagine it was posterior to the time of Owen who if I mistake not was buried in the cathedral of St. Davids but of this I shall inform myself hereafter.

The church of Penymynnedd formerly went by the name of its founder whose tomb they pointed out under a kind of gothic nitch in the north wall without any kind of inscription. I did not copy the monument on account of there being a good many people in church (fol. 136_a_) and I wished not to put a stumbling block in my brother’s way but I afterwards made a sketch from memory just to notice the place. After a homely meal we walked half a mile across the fields to the turnpike, and in the course of an hour arrived at Bangor ferry completely soaked a heavy rain having accompanied us all the way. Crossed the water about two with the design of reaching Capel Cerig to sleep but in this we were disappointed through the inattention of our guide who having stopped behind on some pretence we mistook our way and deviated nearly four miles before we got to Llandegai.

It was now quite dark and stormy and we endeavoured to procure horses to take us to the conclusion of our stage but without success, on therefore we marched to a small public house near Lord Penrhyn’s quarries where we met a civil reception though the accommodations were scarcely (fol. 138) a whit better than those of the preceeding night. In the course of two hours after our arrival our guide made his appearance with a number of excuses I did not think it worth while to listen to. At about ten we retired to our sleeping room.

[Picture: No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (See page 43.)]

MONDAY, DECR. 13

It rained violently all night but clearing up after breakfast we pursued our road to Capel Cerig. In our way purchased a hone at the quarry near Ogwen lake of a man living in a cottage close at hand who is employed on the spot to procure this article and two or three shiploads have already been sent to different parts. Arrived at the inn about one gratified by our ten days tour in the island notwithstanding the bad weather we experienced having in that period walked above an hundred and sixty eight miles.

* * * * *

CORRIGENDUM. On page 68, line 30, _for_ “auxore” _read_ “uxore.”

FOOTNOTES.

{11a} Llanidan House belonged to Lord Boston, from whom Mr. Williams rented it.

{11b} South-west.

{13a} Castell near Bryn Gwyn.

{13b} West.

{14a} Braint.

{14b} Caer Lab.

{15a} Bodowyr.

{15b} Half a mile south-west.

{16a} Myfyrian.

{16b} Tre Ifan.

{17} Llanedwen.

{18} Carnedd at Plâs Newydd.

{20} Cromlech at Plâs Newydd.

{22a} Gwydryn.

{22b} Brynsiencyn.

{23} Castell Idris.

{28} Perthi Duon?

{30a} A mile and a quarter south-west.

{30b} Frondeg.

{32a} Malltraeth.

{32b} Trefdraeth.

{34} Llysdulas.

{36a} Llyn Coron.

{36b} Trefeilir.

{37} Tregarnedd? three miles to the north. “Ester mon eglwr”—should this read . . . maes elidr? “? Esgair maes elidr.”

{38} Cerrigceinwen.

{44a} Llangwyfan House.

{44b} Mynydd Cnwc.

{46} At Ty Newydd.

{47a} Crigyll.

{47b} At Pentraeth.

{49} Nhewyn.

{50a} Gwyndy.

{50b} At Presaddfedd.

{50c} Feet?

{53} Llandrygarn.

{54} Now at Trescawen.

{71} Alaw?

{72a} Two miles.

{72b} Careg Lleidr.

{73} Can this be meant for Lleidrgoch or Llechgoch? Possibly it should be Llidach as a chapel of this name used to stand close to the spot.—_Cambrian Register_, ii, 288.

{74} The exact spot where the “triangular piece of gold” was found is not clearly indicated. Apparently it was on the North-West side of the mountain. Mr. Skinner, however, in his sketch, shows it on the South-East side.

Probably the sketches were worked up in the evening from memory, which may account for the errors which appear in some of them.

{75a} The position where these “gold tongues” stood was probably on the North-West side of the mountain though shown by Mr. Skinner on the South-East.

{75b} This town was Tre Beirdd on the North-West side of the mountain, incorrectly indicated on the South-East side on Mr. Skinner’s ground plan.

{76a} Cyttiau Gwyddelod.

{76b} These are marked on the 25 in. Ordnance Map.

{77a} Maccudecceti.

{77b} No such stones are now to be found here.

{78} Catherine Jones’ burial is entered in the Register, but the stone cannot be found.

{79} This is incorrect.

{80a} The thickness is about 3 ft. 6 ins.

{80b} At this end it rests on a flat rock.

{80c} Demolished about fifteen years ago.

{81} William and Mary.

{82} At Traeth Bychan? Bryn ddiol is the hill on which the Romano-British village, close to Parciau House, is situated.

{84a} Din Sylwy or Bwrdd Arthur.

{84b} Llaniestyn.

{85} Hafodty

{86a} Presaddfedd.

{86b} Penmynydd.