Part 2

Returning to Llanedwyn church we proceeded in company with Mr. Hughes of Plâs Goch towards Bryn Gwiderin. In our way thither he engaged a young man well acquainted with the country to conduct us to those places we had marked out in our list for the day. Bryn Gwiderin {22a} is a natural ledge of rock resembling what we before noticed at Plâs Goch running for upwards of two miles towards Bryn Shenkin {22b} the (fol. 43) Beaumaris road being formed on the summit. The Romans are supposed to have fixed upon this spot as their principal station in the Island though the shape of the fortress {23} differs from their usual form being a semicircle ninety yards across defended by a triple trench to the southward and to the north by the natural barrier above mentioned. I was anxious to see whether the walls had been constructed with cement as in the more finished works of the Romans but could gain no information on the subject having nothing with us to clear away the rubbish from the surface. On asking the guide whether they had ever discovered any copper coins, he said oh yes he had some in his possession and off he ran like a dart to his cottage nearly half a mile distant. We waited his return hoping at length our wishes would be gratified in this respect when lo! instead of coins bearing the effigies of the Cæsars he produced a handful of (fol. 43_a_) rough copper ore, on explaining to him what we wanted saying they resembled a piece of money he said he had one of that kind also of silver which he picked up a short time since in a field near home whither he returned with equal alacrity to procure it and shortly made his appearance with a shilling of Elizabeth’s!!! So much for coins. There seems to be a fatality against my collecting any. In my excursion along the Roman Wall I heard of many but could obtain none. Those I procured at Caerwent are unfortunately lost many have certainly been dug up in these parts but either lost or disposed of. We continued our progress from Bryn Gwyderin in a northerly direction towards Mafyrian the distance of two miles over heaths & bogs. At this place we expected to meet with some Druidical remains noticed by Mr. Rowlands but they have all been cleared (fol. 45) away since his time. At Bodlew we experienced a similar disappointment. We therefore proceeded towards Llanddeiniol church in expectation of seeing some painted glass said to have been presented by the notorious Judge Jeffries whose family formerly resided here but nothing of the kind was to be seen or indeed anything else for never was I in so dark or dismal a place. But in this parish we were fully recompensed for all our former disappointments by the sight of the Carnedd at Bryn Celli.

[Picture: Bryn Celli Ddu Cromlech]

Accompanied by a young farmer who procured a lanthorn for the purpose we walked nearly a mile to the south east of the church to the spot where in Mr. Rowlands’ time there were two carnedds remaining having two rude stone pillars placed between them but these stones have been employed for the purpose of building a wall near this place as well as a great part (fol. 45_a_) of the western carnedd which is nearly destroyed for the same purpose about twenty years ago when the labourers when digging towards the center discovered a flat pan about ten inches overturned bottom upwards and under it a wedge of gold as they pretend the size of the heater of an iron with a piece of wire passing through the smaller end of it. The father of the young man who was with us happened to be one of the workmen employed at the time, but as what they found was immediately taken by Colonel Peacock the proprietor of the ground the man could give no further account of the circumstance. I should imagine that what they called the wedge of gold was no other than one of the brazen celts or sacrificial instruments used in former times which have been discovered in great numbers in Cornwall and (fol. 46) other parts of the kingdom. Whilst a farmer was removing some of the stones from the north east side of the larger carnedd to employ them in his repairs he came to the mouth of a passage covered with a square stone similar to that at Plâs Newydd, anxious to reap the fruits of his discovery he procured a light and crept forward on his hands and knees along the dreary vault, when lo! in a chamber at the further end a figure in white seemed to forbid his approach. The poor man had scarcely power sufficient to crawl backwards out of this den of spirits as he imagined however in the course of a few days instigated by the hopes of riches and the presence of many assistants he made his second _entré_ into the cavern and finding the white gentleman did not offer to stir he boldly went (fol. 46_a_) forward and discovered the object of his apprehensions was no other than a stone pillar about six feet in height standing in the centre of the chamber. His former consternation could now only be exceeded by his eagerness to see what was contained beneath the stone which he shortly overturned but treasure there was none, some large human bones lying near the pillar sufficiently testifying the purpose for which the structure was intended. This is the substance of the account we received from the young man whose father was one of Colonel Peacock’s labourers and on the premises at the time of the discovery. The superstition of the common people still suppose this to be the habitation of spirits.

Our two conductors seeming rather to compliment each other about precedence I took the lanthorn and crawling for about twelve feet along (fol. 47) a narrow passage got into a more capacious chamber, my companions followed close at my heels and we assembled to the number of six in this singular sepulchre. The passage by which we entered is about three feet high and a little more in breadth and was formed like that we noticed at Plâs Newydd with flat stones stuck endways and covered with others of still greater magnitude laid across. I have still my doubts that if the former was further explored it might terminate in a similar vault to what we are now speaking of. The height of the chamber is nine feet, its form nearly triangular some of the sides being about three yards long and four or five feet high. The intermediate space up to the roof is filled with stones placed one above the other in the manner they build walls but without any kind of cement. Two prodigious flat stones covered the whole one about three yards in length and two in breadth (fol. 47_a_) the other not quite so large. These are of a gritty substance not like any stone found in the vicinity. The pillar still lying in the cavern is a kind of freestone and seems to have been rounded by the tool. On examining more minutely this singular structure we were not a little annoyed by a tribe of immense spiders who have reigned here unmolested for ages the cones containing their young ones suspended from different parts of the roof nearly as large as those of silk worms.

I suppose we were in this mansion of the dead half an hour and on regaining the open air found the evening shut in, and the gloom still heightened by a heavy rain which accompanied us the whole way to Moel-don where we arrived very wet to a late dinner and went early to bed.

(Fol. 48) SATURDAY, DECR. 4

We were up as soon as it was light this morning and having taken leave of our new acquaintance who seems destined to vegetate on sixty pounds per annum with the charge of three churches and a wife into the bargain, we proceeded along the shore of the Menai to Llanidan. In our way observed more particularly Pant y scraffie the meadow where the Romans are supposed to have effected their landing. Mr. Rowland with some probability derives y scraffie from the Latin word scaphae a kind of flat boats or skiffs best adapted for a shallow coast. We stopped a few minutes at Llanidan to look at the inside of the church. Mr. Williams senior, who died last week at Bath is expected to be interred here. Like Sir Benjamin Hamet and Mr. Allen though sprung from a mean origin he (fol. 48_a_) acquired a princely fortune having been first agent and then afterwards partner in that lucrative concern the Parys mine. I took a drawing of Llanidan church and afterwards copied an inscription in the church yard bearing date 1640 the character differs from most others of the same period. The interior of the building has little to attract notice but Russell copied the following inscription to a Mr. Fitz Gerald who appears to have been resident at the old mansion at Bodowyr in the beginning of the last century. Some arms of a prior date let into the wall near the communion table are I believe the same as those placed over the entrance door of the house. “Here lyeth Price Fitz Gerald of Bodowir Gent. son of Edmund Fitz Gerald Gent. and Mary Price who died April xii MDCCIX being lineally descended from Gerard Oge of Rathrown who was (fol. 51) descended from Mac Thomas a younger son of the Earl of Kildare in Ireland aet xxxiv. iv. M 8 R I P.” The lad who had been our conductor yesterday still accompanied us and I confess I was not a little pleased with his disinterested attention. We took nearly the same route we had done before from Bryn Shenkin to Blochti in order to see a cromlech {28} called Maen Llhwyd, not having been able to procure any intelligence respecting it when here the other day.

[Picture: Llanidan Church]

The cap stone and its three supporters remain still on the spot but have long since been thrown prostrate on the ground. If I remember right Mr. Rowlands speaks of it as a demolished cromlech in his time. The cap stone is nearly circular measuring about two yards and a half in diameter and a yard in thickness. The two supporters lying near it are about two yards each in length, the third we could not take the dimensions of (fol. 51_a_) because the cap stone had fallen over it.

[Picture: No. 16. Inscriptions at Llanidan]

From Maen Llhwyd we took the direction to Bodowyr which gave us an opportunity of seeing Tre Fwry the field in which the Roman coins were dug up. Four or five circular buildings may here be traced close to the brook Briant.

[Picture: No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty]

I believe that most of the stones that form the wall round the field were taken from this spot. Having taken a rough sketch of the place we proceeded on to Bodowyr. In a stubble field rather to the westward of the house we noticed some foundations of buildings covering about an acre of ground. The country people have a tradition that a large town once stood here but so many of the stones have been removed to clear the ground it is impossible to form any idea respecting it.

Proceeding across the fields for three {30a} miles to the north west we came to a farm house called Fron Dûg {30b} where we had been directed to enquire for a stone (fol. 54) with an inscription now employed as a gatepost on the premises. We soon found the spot and we endeavoured to trace the rude characters with as much care as possible. I imagine the stone was intended for a boundary and that the VI and the letters underneath refer to some measurement of property. The other part I think is more intelligible and thus read Mad. Filius Lluricini erexit hunc lapidem.

[Picture: No. 18. Stone near Frondûg, 5 ft. in height]

[Picture: No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church]

[Picture: No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church]

The farmer living on the spot gave a curious account of the stone having once been taken away to be employed in building a limekiln by a person in the neighbourhood but he added with great earnestness that nothing succeeded with him till he had again restored it to its place. It now forms a gate post though the gate is hung on the opposite side of the way. We here separated from the good natured lad who had attended us so many miles and finding him superior to any pecuniary recompence I gave (fol. 54_a_) him a silk handkerchief from my neck which he says he shall keep as long as he lives. Before he left us he made interest at a farm house for horses to carry us over Malltreath {32a} a swampy flat covered by the sea at high tides. However we passed without difficulty pushing straight forwards towards a village church called Treasdreath {32b} and passed a large stone called Maen hîr. From hence leaving Mr. Meyrick’s house a large mansion to the left we made the best of our way to Llancadwaladr church about two miles distant. We had noted down this place from Mr. Rowlands on account of an ancient inscription placed there by Cadwalader last king of the Britons to commemorate Catamanus or Catwallon his grandfather. The characters are very deeply cut on a stone above four feet long forming the lintern to the doorway of the church and is read Catamanus Rex sapientissimus opinatissimus omnium (fol. 58) regum. This Cadfan or Catamanus according to Mr. Rowlands was chosen King of the Britons anno six hundred and thirteen and is said to have been buried in the Isle of Bardsey but in Sir John Wynne’s pedigree we find an account of a Cadwallader of a much later date he being brother of Owen Gwynnedd stiled king of Wales. Whether this was the person who founded the church or whether it was built as Mr. Rowlands says prior to that period the Welsh historians must determine. I only hint this because I found nothing in the structure of the building to corroborate so remote an antiquity as the chief window to the east appears to be about the time of Henry the seventh or eighth and on it is some painted glass in the characters of that age (fol. 58_a_). A chapel attached to the north side of the church was built anno sixteen hundred sixty six by dame Owen as we learnt by the following inscription over the doorway. This chapel was built by Anne Owen widdowe, daughter and inheretrix of Richard Williams of Llasdûlas {34} Esqre according to the direction of her deare husband Hugh Owen Esqre sixteen hundred sixty one. Under some arms painted on the glass of the chapel was, appointed by her deare husband Hugh Owen sonne and heir of Will Owen of Bodowen Esqre and erected by his dear wife Anne.

[Picture: No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq.]

Under a monument erected against the east wall of the church where a knight in armour and a lady are kneeling before an altar are the following curious lines containing more of loyalty than poesy (fol. 59)—

To the memory of Hugh Owen Esqre of Bodowen who died the twenty first of October sixteen hundred fifty nine.

Religion, learning, friends, poor have lost A noble patron who maintained them at his cost His country’s patriot most firme to loyalty And for being loyal suffer’d infinitely With foes would not cologue nor his prince betray But livde his faithful subject every day.

This monument was made by Anne his beloved wife the daughter and inheritrix of Richard Williams of Llasdûlas Esqre in memory of her deare husband sixteen hundred sixty.

Mr. Meyricke the owner of Bodowen is first repairing his family chapel on the opposite side. The original edifice as appears by a stone lying in the church was built by Richard Meyricke Esqre anno sixteen hundred forty (fol. 59_a_) and the vault underneath by his great grandson Owen Meyricke Esqre seventeen hundred thirty. The evening was closing in fast before we had finished our observations at Llancadwaladr.

A dreary walk of two miles over the sands to Aberffraw was rendered still more disagreeable by an incessant and heavy rain and we had no small degree of anxiety the whole of our walk lest we should be still more unfortunate in not gaining admittance at the public house as we understood that a number of Westleans with Mr. Charles at their head were to have a meeting the following day in the village. However on our arrival at the house we found a good welcome and much better quarters than we had reason to expect. After a comfortable supper of boiled rabbit we retired to rest.

(fol. 61) SUNDAY, DECR. 5

[Picture: No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas]

[Picture: No. 23. Cerigainwyn Church]

This morning after breakfast the weather being tolerably fair we walked to Henblâs in the parish of Llangristiolus in expectation of seeing a cromlech mentioned in our list. In our way thither we skirted a lake {36a} about two miles in circumference and noticed large flocks of wild ducks and other acquatic birds near the shore but on our approach they swam immediately to the middle of the water. About a mile and a half beyond we passed a large house called Trefyla {36b} belonging to Mr. Evans and at Henblâs another the property of his sister but at present only tenanted by a gardener who accompanied us over the fields to the object we came in search of. We here found three immense stones two of them above fifteen feet high and nearly the same in width standing upright in the ground, another of a (fol. 61_a_) flatter form leant against them. I cannot imagine there is anything artificial in the arrangements of these ponderous bodies but that their position is the one they were placed in by the hand of nature. Whether they ever were or were not employed by the Druids I do not pretend to determine. And here we may observe the word cromlech is applied by the Welsh indiscriminately to stones either natural or artificial if they are only found inclining in such a direction that there is a hollow underneath. The largest stone in the pass of Llanberis which not many years ago rolled from the heights above obtains the name of cromlech vawr and the same may be observed in many other instances. On returning from this spot the gardener who seemed to be an intelligent man pointed to a rising ground to the southward about two miles off which he said was called (fol. 62) Ester {37} mon eglwr where are still to be traced the foundations of an ancient fortress and tradition says a lofty watch tower once stood on this eminence commanding the circumference of the Island. From hence a causeway ran across the low ground towards a large carnedd wherein were discovered many human bones. Not far from hence he himself picked up a piece of silver coin which he had given to a lady in the neighbourhood. As we had received intelligence of some old characters cut in the wall of Cerigainwyn {38} Church we walked thither and were glad to find something better worthy of notice than the cromlech we had quitted for here are still visible some large Saxon characters cut very deep in the stone of the clochti or belfry. In order to transcribe them more perfectly I procured a ladder and mounted aloft but this (fol. 62_a_) enterprize was attended with no small difficulty for being obliged to employ both hands while sketching and the ladder lying very slanting I could only depend upon the toes of my boots for support against the wall. Whilst thus situated there came on a violent storm of sleet and hail which so benumbed my hands I hurried the business more than I otherwise should have done but still I think I have the drawing pretty exact. These rude Saxon characters appear to be coeval with the building and probably were designed to perpetuate the name of its founder and the date of the foundation but when the original edifice grew to decay they were taken out of their original order and placed just as they happened to come into use in the building the clochti so that many of the letters are lost or inverted. I think I am authorized to make this conjecture by the (fol. 69) present appearance of the U and the S which are evidently reversed. Other letters are also wanting to make good the inscription. The font within the church is without doubt equally ancient as it retains the Runic lines and ornaments which were used among the northern nations of the sixth and seventh century. Of this I made three drawings. The clerk a surly Jewish looking fellow seemed at first inclined to be very impudent, but I did not neglect to fee him for the same reason the Angel did the Miser in Parnell’s beautiful poem of the Hermit namely to make him more civil and attentive to other travellers should curiosity ever lead them to this spot. The clouds now gathering round us and everything seeming to portend bad weather we made the best of our way to Aberffraw having altogether walked twelve miles.

[Picture: No. 24. Clochty at Caregainwin Church]

[Picture: No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church]

[Picture: No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]

[Picture: No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]

[Picture: No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]

(fol. 69_a_) MONDAY, DECR. 6

[Picture: No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.]]

We found there was so much to be seen in the neighbourhood of Aberffraw that we determined on prolonging our stay for another day at our present station. About nine attended by the same person who went with us yesterday we walked to the parish church which outwardly resembles other Welsh buildings of the kind but on entering we observed a neat turned Saxon arch to the west end underneath the clochti an evident token that this part of the building was of a more ancient date and most likely erected during the times the Saxons held the Island which was for above a century. Aberffraw afterwards became the residence of the North Welsh princes and we may suppose it was a place of the greatest consequence in the Island though now it scarcely deserves the title of a village.

[Picture: No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfan Church]

(fol. 73) Not far from the church they point out a field where the palace of Llewelyn stood but no traces remain the ground having been cleared quite to the foundation. Proceeding in a northwesterly direction for a mile and a half we came to the little church of Llangwyfan. This is erected on a rocky peninsula jutting out into the sea and is an Island at high water so that not unfrequently the congregation are interrupted in their devotion by the rapid approach of the waves. From its exposed situation to the weather and from the spray of the sea beating against its walls the stones in parts are fretted like a honeycomb which gives it a most venerable appearance though from the shape of the windows at the east end I should not suppose it was above four centuries standing. Whilst I was sketching the font and part of the interior Russell copied a curious (fol. 73_a_) epitaph to the memory of Mr. Woode written about the year sixteen hundred two an age remarkable for its false wit and punning indeed must have been very prevalent to have found its way to so remote a quarter as this. Inscribed on a brass plate let into a stone slab is the following epitaph:

Felix ter felix marmor quia nobile lignum Quo caret infelix insula marmor habes Owen et patriae vivens fuit utile lignum Et lignum vitae post sua fata Deo Filius ista meo posui monumenta parenti Sic precor et tecum nomen [et] Owen idem In obitum Oweni Woode armigeri qui Obiit 6 die April A° Dni 1602 Ætat 70.

[Picture: No. 32]

(fol. 76) In our way back we collected some beautiful specimens of sea weed and a few shells and passing by a large mansion {44a} house the former habitation of this Mr. Woode but now rented of Mr. Meyricke by a farmer we walked a mile farther to Mynnedd {44b} Cnwc having understood there was a cromlech to be seen there.

[Picture: No. 33. Remains of a Carnedd at Mynydd-y-Cnwc]