Category: Travel Writing

Swiss allmends, and a walk to see them

On the afternoon of July 30 I found myself at Bretzwyl, a village some twenty miles to the south of Bâle, far from any tourist-beaten track. I had gone there to see M. Heusler, _Professeur de Droit_ in the University of Bâle, and author of a valuable work on the commonable lan...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I.

2. CHAPTER IV.

3. CHAPTER XV.

4. CHAPTER XVI.

5. CHAPTER I.

On the afternoon of July 30 I found myself at Bretzwyl, a village some twenty miles to the south of Bâle, far from any tourist-beaten track. I had gone there to see M. Heusler,...

6. CHAPTER II.

But before we enter on the narrative of the excursion itself, which will afterwards be uninterrupted throughout, I would ask leave to give a short account of a meeting I had wit...

7. CHAPTER III.

At 10.45, got on our legs at Brienz. The sun had now become warm, but there was a fresh air. Two four-horse diligences were waiting for the arrival of the boat. I placed my _mal...

8. CHAPTER IV.

As you leave the bay of Buochs you find that the mountains on all sides show well from the lake. Behind is Obburgen, at which we have just now been looking. On your immediate ri...

9. CHAPTER V.

_August_ 8.--‘Now, Ammer, for a glimpse of Italy;’ as, at 6 A.M., starting from the almost undistinguishable watershed that divides the head-stream of the Reuss from that of the...

10. CHAPTER VI.

At Bellinzona I wished to take a carriage and pair to Airolo, but in this extortionate place I could not hear of one for less than 75 francs. Probably 50 would have been gladly...

11. CHAPTER VII

Therefore am I still A lover of the meadows, and the woods, And mountains; and of all that we behold From this green earth; of all the mighty world Of eye and ear--both what the...

12. CHAPTER VIII.

_August 16._--Stayed at Engelberg till 10 P.M. to see something more of the place. The monks declined to show us their library, or anything within their walls. To have admitted...

13. CHAPTER IX.

What is’t t’ us Whether ’twas said by Trismegistus, If it be nonsense, false, or mystic, Or not intelligible, or sophistic? ’Tis not antiquity, nor author, That makes truth trut...

14. did. Its assumption of Infallibility obliges it to hold that everything

it has taught, and is teaching, rests upon precisely the same ground and authority; that all must stand, or that all must fall, together; and that all must stand, or that all mu...

15. CHAPTER X.

_August 18._--At mid-day left the mediævalism of Einsiedln to take the rail at Rapperswyl for manufacturing Glarus. Were hardly out of the town when we came upon railway cutting...

16. CHAPTER XI.

Ever charming, ever new, When will the landscape tire the view! The mountains’ fall, the rivers’ flow; The wooded valleys, warm and low; The windy summits wild and high, Roughly...

17. CHAPTER XII.

_August 23._--Yesterday, having spent some hours on the Rigi, we had got to Lucerne with two or three hours of daylight still at our disposal. I here found my _malle_ at the pos...

18. CHAPTER XIII.

_August 25._--Were off at 5 a.m. for the longest walk of our excursion, across the Grimsel, down to Obergesteln, and then along the Rhone Valley to Munster, where we were to sle...

19. CHAPTER XIV.

In the afternoon we took up our staves for the Rieder Alp. The path runs horizontally along the flank of the range: in its seven miles, from the Eggischhorn Hotel to the hotel a...

20. CHAPTER XV.

_August 29._--We had thought of ascending the Sparrenhorn this morning: but now the aspect of things forbad such an undertaking. The Bell Alp was in the clouds. At such altitude...

21. CHAPTER XVI.

The reader will have seen that I was, throughout the excursion recorded in the foregoing pages, paying some attention to the Swiss Allmends. Allmend means land which is held and...