Part 21

For driving and country rambles, woodland walks, botanizing, gathering ferns and wild flowers, observation of the habits of birds and animals, and for the student of nature, the artist, the nature-lover and all who appreciate the profound thought and concentration promoted by the quiet and tranquility of woodland, forest and secluded country lane, the Maritime Provinces offer all that is beautiful in nature, combined with cool days and glorious nights. Who that walks about by day, in such a climate, can help feeling the buoyancy of spirit and feeling as of walking on air; and who that rambles by river, lake or shore at night but realizes that here he is indeed under the stars. The perfume of the flowers, the song of the birds, the wind whispering through the trees, and the far-away echo of the surf on the moonlit strand, all bring joy to the heart; and as we take our way by a forest of noble birch trees, the mysterious and thrilling sounds that come from its depths seem like an invitation to enter and tarry awhile—to “adore, and be still”—to spend an hour of quiet contemplation in yonder glade, where the moon’s soft light clothes every graceful, bending flower in a robe of gleaming splendor. The districts around *Quebec are particularly interesting to the nature-lover, while the *Bay of Chaleur, Prince Edward Island, the *Wentworth, *Matapedia, *Miramichi and *Nashwaak Valleys, the Upper and Lower *St. John River districts, and all the bye-places of Nova Scotia, and particularly of the *Cape Breton district, are full of interest for drives, rambles, etc., in the enjoyment of nature.

Many who enjoy country life will find their way to Quebec, St. John, Charlottetown, Halifax, and Sydney, etc., and from these places will afterwards pass on to some quiet spot where the simple life may be enjoyed on a farm at very small expense, and from which stopping-place, as a centre, drives and rambles may be taken in every direction.

The route of the Intercolonial Railway is through a country that is rich in game; indeed the Maritime Provinces are the chief hunting grounds of North America. Moose and deer are still abundant, and in parts of Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia there are districts not difficult of access where bears may be shot. The upper part of Cape Breton Island is excellent for large game. From any of the principal centres in Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia hunting parties may be equipped, and guides obtained, in the proper season. Like the fishing places of the Maritime Provinces, the hunting localities are so numerous that it would be impossible to do justice to them in this book of general description. A special booklet, “Fishing and Hunting,” will be forwarded from the offices of the Intercolonial Railway, Moncton, N.B., on application.

Wild fowl, small game and shore birds are found in almost every part of the Maritime Provinces. The *Bay of Chaleur, *Prince Edward Island, and the shore along the *Straits of Northumberland all have numerous places where good shooting may be had in season. The interior rivers and many of the coast streams also afford fine shooting; and it is almost impossible to find a locality in which small game of some kind is not abundant. Particulars relating to small game and wild fowl districts will be found in the hunting pamphlet to which reference has just been made.

Automobile traffic is becoming world-wide, and with the attention that is now given to road improvement in nearly all parts of Canada, the highways of Quebec and the Maritime Provinces have not been overlooked. In Prince Edward Island the use of automobiles is prohibited, but in Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia there is a splendid choice of interesting tours. Particulars of these in detail may be obtained from the road maps published in New York; and the Automobile Clubs of Quebec, St. John and Halifax, etc., are always glad to give specific information relating to their province.

To enjoy intimate views of woodland, stream, lake and waterfall, it is often necessary to leave the main roads or highways. Inner glades, breezy heights, forest depths, the rocky bed of some foaming cascade, or the winding course of a plashing brook, bordered by wildflowers, must all be sought on foot.

In all districts that are rich in such beauties it is best to tarry at the nearest hostelry and enjoy the country by rambling about on foot. If such excursions are supplemented by trips in canoe, row-boat, sail-boat, and motor-boat of ordinary speed, an intelligent view of the country, its people, and its great resources of natural beauty will then be possible—a view that would not be within the reach of those who limit the field of observation to what may be seen from the seat of a speeding automobile.

_INDEX._

Page

A Abitation (1) de Kebec 34, 45 Aboriginal Tribes 6 Abram’s Village 204 Acadia 13, 177, 204, 232 Acadia, Heroine of 13, 177, 178 Acadian Expulsion 5, 204, 232, 274 Acadian French 17, 21, 156, 239, 275 Acadian Settlements 22, 133, 139, 201, 204, 223, 224, 256 Acadian Story 210 Acadian Relics 218, 233, 239 Acadian Villages 80, 229, 295, 297 Adam’s Lake 182 Advocate Harbor 233 Albert 195 Alberton 17, 205, 208, 209 Algonquin Indians 34, 187 Alma 195 Alpine Scenery 10, 57, 59, 75, 96 American’s Prisoner’s Escape 44 Amqui 105 Amherst 232 Annapolis Basin 231 Annapolis Royal 21 Annapolis Valley 21, 244, 258 Anse a l’Eau 84 Anticosti 68 Antigonish 260, 264, 265 Antigonish Mountains 265 Apohaqui 192, 195 Apple River 233 Arctic Current 20 Arichat 24, 297 Arisaig 265 “Arm of Gold,” The 24 Arnold 40 Ashuapmouchouan 89 Asiatic Continent 8 Aspy Bay 293 Assametquaghan 107 Atlantic Provinces 22 Atlantic Seaboard 69, 231, 244, 246, 265 Aulac River 232 Aurora Borealis 85 Aylmer, Lord 123

B Baccalaos 271 Back to the Farm 209 Baddeck 24, 272, 278, 282, 295 Baddeck River 292 Baie St. Paul 68, 70 Bake Oven 59 Bald Head 111 Barnaby River 200 Barachois 278, 280 Bartholomew River 145 Bartholomy 9 Basque Fishermen 7 Basque Peasants 29 Bathing 59, 78, 101, 134, 157, 178, 182, 192, 200, 205, 255, 256, 260, 262, 293, 295 Bathurst 113, 138, 140 Battle of Montmorency 37 Battle of Ste. Foye 46 Battle of the Plains 40, 44 Bay of Chaleur 13, 105, 112, 120, 121, 133, 138, 139, 185 Bay of St. Lawrence 293 Bear 293 Bears, Anecdotes of 31, 114, 116, 214 Beauport 38, 54 Beauport, Lake 47 Beaupré 10 Beau Rivage 106 Bedeque Bay 205 Bedford 255 Bedford Basin 244, 255, 256 Beinn Bhreagh 289, 290, 291 Belange 9 Belvedere 216 Bellevue 255 Bic 69, 76 Bigot and Caroline, Story of 48 Blackville 144 Blue Mountains 111 Boar’s Head 193 Boating 66, 71, 75, 78, 85, 101, 122, 135, 146, 157, 171, 178, 182, 192, 195, 200, 216, 218, 226, 232, 233, 255, 256, 260, 261, 266, 281, 288 Boiestown 145 Boisdale 278 Bonaventure Island 126 Bonaventure River 132 Bonshaw 216 Boularderie 276 Boylston 266 Brackley Point 215 Bras d’Or Lake 24, 231, 275, 276, 288, 296 Bradalbane 212 Bretagne 17, 204 Bride’s Corner 176 Bride’s Mecca 101 Brudenell 224 Buctouche 200 Buctouche River 200 Bungalow Life 137, 174, 176, 192, 237, 261, 289

C Cabot 5, 6, 15, 30, 203, 271 Cacouna 80, 94 Cain’s River 145 Call of Nature, The 235 Calling the Ferry 152 Camp Bedford 176 Campbellton 111, 117, 121, 129, 133 Camping Out 133, 157, 219, 221, 222, 256 Campobello 184 Canaan River 142, 200 Canadian Government Railways 24, 206 Canadian Mediterranean 8 Canine Intelligence 214 Canoeing 66, 129, 133, 142, 145, 157, 171, 182, 192, 205, 218, 255, 264, 281 Canoe Trip 146 Cap à l’Aigle 10, 71, 73, 78 Cap au Corbeau 70 Cap au Diable 129 Cap d’Or 233 Cape Blomidon 233 Cape Breton 7, 18, 22, 24, 37, 69, 231, 265, 271, 286 Cape Breton Forests 24 Cape Breton Railway 25 Cape Despair 128 Cape Eternity 88 Cap Enfumé 24, 292 Cape North 293 Cape Trinity 88 Cap St. Ignace 69 Caraquet 139 Cardigan Bay 224 Cardigan River 224 Caribou 14, 293 Caribou Plains 233 Carleton 45, 121, 133 Carleton Bay 133 Carleton Heights 180 Cascapedia 131 Cartier, Jacques 5, 6, 10, 30, 32, 47, 52, 61, 70, 87, 97, 120, 122, 143, 203, 271 Cascumpeque Bay 208 Causapscal 106 Causapscal River 106, 111 Cedar Hall 105 Chain Lakes 256 Chambers Lake 182 Chambly 9 Chamouchouan 89 Champlain 5, 8, 13, 15, 21, 34, 43, 45, 52, 75, 87, 177, 203, 231 Chapel Grove 193 Charlesbourg 53 Charlesbourg Road 47 Charles I 34 Charlo River 135 Charlo River Fishing 135 Charlottetown 215, 216, 224 Chateau Frontenac 28, 45 Chateau Richer 58 Chateau St. Louis 35, 45 Chatham 142, 143, 144 Chatham Junction 144, 199 Chaudière 10, 61, 62, 68 Chaudière River 40 Cheap Coal 282 Chebucto 247 Chedabucto Bay 265, 266 Chester 258 Cheticamp 295 Cheticamp Valley 295 Chezzetcook 256 Chicoutimi 9, 87 Chignecto Bay 195, 229 Chignecto Peninsula 233 China Passage 8, 30 Chipman 184, 195 Chute Desbiens 76 Clare Mountain 164, 165 Clifton 193 Climate of Provinces 230 Cobequid Bay 239 Cobequid Mountains 235 Cocagne Cape 201 Cocagne River 200 Cocagnes 201 Cole Harbor 249 College Lake 265 Colonial Loyalists 5, 233 Columbus 6 Colville Bay 223 Commissioner’s Visit 125 Country Cream 167 Coureurs du bois 29 Cow Bay 256 Crawley’s Creek 281 Cricket 216, 255 Cross Creek 145 Cross Point 133 Cumberland Basin 232 Curling 255

D Dalhousie 134 Dalhousie Gate 43 Dartmouth 256 Davidson’s Ferry 164 Dartmouth Lake 256 Dartmouth Parks 256 Deadman’s Isle 37 De Monts 13, 21, 177, 231 Deer 139, 145 Deep-Sea Fishing 178, 215, 226, 232, 258, 266, 271, 288 Derby Junction 144 D’Escousse 297 D’Ibberville 35 Digby 184 Donnacona 31, 32 Dorchester 229 Driving 71, 75, 78, 98, 101, 145, 178, 193, 195, 199, 212, 215, 216, 226, 233, 255, 262, 264, 266, 281, 285, 288, 292, 295, 296 Duck Cove 129 Dufferin Terrace 30, 46 Dungarvon 145 Dunk River 205 Dutch Village 256

E Eagle 149 Early Indians 122 Eastport 184 East River 19, 264 Eboulements, Les 70 Edmundston 80 Egg Island 37, 128 Elliot River 215 Ellis River 206 Elmsdale 208 Emerillon 70 Enchanted Lake 182 Enjoying Old Age 204 Eric, The Red 6 Escoumains, Les 68 Escuminac 143 Eternity Bay 88 Europe and Middle Ages 9 Excursions by Rail 264