Part 17

Fortunately at this time a place was found for them in Sierra Leone in the land from which they had originated, and greatly to the relief of Sir John Wentworth, the governor at that time, they departed, accompanied by general rejoicings of all in Halifax. Maroon Hall, their former headquarters, has completely decayed; but the great cellar may still be seen by the waters of Cole Harbor to the east of Halifax.

The city retains more traces of its British origin than any other place in America. Just as Quebec is essentially French, so is Halifax peculiarly British; and to go from one of these places to the other, and yet to realize that both are on the Western Continent, is to experience many surprises. Canada is not old enough to have imposing cities. To many this is cause for congratulation, for who would care to go from New York to Halifax to see a second Gotham; while visitors from Chicago, Philadelphia, Ontario, and Western Canada find in old Halifax much that is absolutely new to them. May these conditions continue for many years to come, for there is nothing incompatible between progress and the preservation of all old and well-tried things that fit in with and do not block the wheels of the car in which we all travel, and that has marked above it the direction “Onward!”

Halifax is one of those restful and delightful places where each day’s recreation and exercise brings a night of peace and repose, and where all the conveniences of modern life may be enjoyed without the turmoil and din of the too-bustling city. And the country, the woods, the lakes and the streams are all quite near; so that a life half-city, half-country, may be lived without the inconvenience of having to study traffic conditions at “rush” hours, etc.

In your rambles without the city you will come to a charming little lake, with a fairy like boat resting tranquilly on its quiet surface, where wild flowers spread a fragrant carpet around, and gay little songbirds are in concert on the quivering birches. You will stop to drink in the beauties of the delightful scene, and possibly as you do so you will notice a young couple whose marriage, apparently, is only a week or two in the past. Could there be a better paradise, the world over, for bridal couples than the Maritime Provinces! They are gazing with rapt attention at the scene, and you believe they are talking. Are you curious to know what he is saying and what she replies. Listen! he is speaking.

“There’s not a little boat, sweetheart, That dances on the tide;— There’s not a nodding daisy-head In all the meadows wide,—

In all the warm green orchards, Where bright birds sing and stray, There’s not a whistling oriole So glad as I this day.”

* * * * *

She said, “In all the purple hills, Where dance the lilies blue, Where all day long the sleeping larks Make fairy-tales come true.

Where you can lie for hours and watch The unfathomable sky, There’s not a breath of all the June That’s half so glad as I!”

A conspicuous feature, visible from almost any part of the city, is the Citadel. From its height a splendid and inspiring view may be had of an immense stretch of country; while the harbor, the coast and the surrounding waters are spread at the feet like a huge map in relief. There is no better way of becoming acquainted with the plan of the city and environs; for by walking around the ramparts every outlying area may be seen reaching in to the streets immediately below. By the Citadel gate may be seen two mortars that were used at Louisbourg when that fortress surrendered to Amherst and Wolfe. Visitors are admitted to the citadel on payment of a small fee. The masonry work is enormously strong, and the old-world appearance of glacis, moat and bastion suggest great strength. It all typifies a fast-decaying system of fort defence, and on that account, and because so picturesque, it is worthy of the closest examination and interest. The one o’clock gun still booms from the upper rampart of the Citadel.

1. City Hall, Halifax 2. Provincial Building, Halifax 3. Sebastopol Monument, Halifax 4. Herring Cove, near Halifax

The modern fortifications for the defence of city and harbor are on the islands, and along the shores that make out to the entrance. On George’s Island is Fort Charlotte, and opposite is Fort Clarence. Forts Ogilvie, Cambridge and Point Pleasant are in the park. Ives’ Point and Fort MacNab are on MacNabs Island. York Redoubt crowns a bluff on the western side of the harbor, and Spion Kop is at Sambro by the harbor entrance.

The Dockyard is an interesting place to visit, and the huge Dry Dock should be seen when a great vessel is within its gates.

A favorite recreation on summer evenings is to row or drift in the harbor, and listen to the music given by the bands of the flagships when naval squadrons are in port.

The Provincial Parliament Building contains many interesting historical portraits, and an excellent library that is strong in provincial, Acadian and early history, etc. The long oak table from the cabin of the _Beaufort_ transport, around which sat the council when Cornwallis took the oath as Governor of Nova Scotia, is preserved in a room adjoining the Council Chamber. In the grounds may be seen the South African Memorial of the Nova Scotian soldiers who fell in the Boer War, and also the Statue of the many-sided Joseph Howe.

A memorial to the soldiers who fell in the Crimean War is erected near the gates of St. Paul’s Old Churchyard; and not far away is Government House, the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province. City Hall stands in its own enclosure, and close by is the quaint old clock tower erected by the Duke of Kent near the foot of Citadel Hill. Punctual himself, he expected others to be equally so. In a nearby building will be found a Natural History Museum, open daily, and well worth seeing. St. Paul’s Church still includes as part of its structure much of the old portion erected soon after the founding of Halifax. American visitors will be interested in learning that the frame of the old building was imported from Massachusetts.

Point Pleasant Park is one of the chief attractions for all who visit the city. It is a park of great natural beauty, situated at the outer end of the peninsula that includes Halifax. Here by the rocky points, on the banks, or from seats under the trees, splendid views of the harbor approaches may be obtained. Far out in the offing is the open sea where white-sailed vessels from many parts are drawing nearer together as they make the harbor. Sea birds are circling and skimming the waves in easy flight, and the cool breeze blows landward, bringing with it that invigorating salty tang of old ocean, every breath of which seems like a draught from the fabled “Fountain of Youth.”

“Ah! what pleasant visions haunt me As I gaze upon the sea! All the old romantic legends, All my dreams, come back to me.

Sails of silk and ropes of sendal, Such as gleam in ancient lore; And the singing of the sailors, And the answer from the shore!

Till my soul is full of longing For the secret of the sea, And the heart of the great ocean Sends a thrilling pulse through me.”

Ocean liners, steamships, sailing vessels, motor-boats and yachts are constantly passing, and the sight is full of pleasant variety. A walk to the old Martello Tower may be enjoyed by striking in from the sea over one of the ingoing paths; and enjoyable walks by the old Chain Fort, past the masked batteries, and around to the beautiful prospect of the North-West Arm, are all of convenient length, The Club House of the Royal Nova Scotian Yacht Squadron is near the Pleasant Street entrance to the park.

The Public Gardens are easily accessible from almost any part of the city, being centrally situated. There are larger, but no finer botanical gardens than these, and the spreading trees, the shady walks, the ponds and lakes, the trim-kept green, the plants, and the great beds of splendid flowers, always in constant succession of bloom, make the “Gardens” a beautiful spot. It is a favorite centre of outdoor recreation and life, and here military band concerts and garden and water _fetes_ are given through the summer.

1. Fountain in Public Gardens, Halifax 2. Rustic Bridge, Public Gardens, Halifax 3. Pavilion, Public Gardens, Halifax 4. In Point Pleasant Park, Halifax

Everyone living anywhere near Halifax takes great pride in the beautiful expanse of water known as the North-West Arm. It is, as its name indicates, an arm of the sea that branches off from the bay and flows inland to the south of the city, in a north-westerly direction. It is about four miles long, and is crowned on each side by wooded banks. It is a great centre for canoeing, rowing, yachting, motor-boating, etc., as well as for bathing, diving, swimming and general aquatic sport. Here in the height of the summer the famous regattas are held, when the numerous club house porches, the banks of the water and every available spot is occupied to witness the races. The sight is gay, unique and peculiar, in its extent, to Halifax. The excursion steamers, sailing vessels, tugs, and boats of every description, as well as private yachts, launches, rowing boats and canoes that line the long course make an exhilarating scene, and one that brings many from hundreds of miles distant to witness it.

Cricket, golf, tennis, curling, boating, canoeing, bathing and diving may all be enjoyed in or near the city; and the locality is a centre for good fishing and the best of hunting.

Of the many favorite drives, one of the best is that along the shore of the Bedford Basin. High hills look down on the noble sheet of water, and at Bellevue, Bedford, etc., are comfortable stopping-places. Here the Duke of Kent lived, at that part of the shore known as Prince’s Lodge. The house has fallen in ruins, and all that remains is the bandstand. Many pretty bungalows and pleasant summer places are found along the shore.

Along this shore camped the survivors of the great French Armada of 1746, that was to have conquered all British America. Of the 40 warships and 30 transports that left Brest, only a scattered remnant survived storm and disaster and was able to return to the home port. Halifax, Louisbourg and Annapolis were all to have been taken from the British by this formidable fleet. But disaster followed in the wake of nearly every vessel of the great squadron; for after being dispersed and scattered by heavy storms that destroyed many vessels of the fleet, the survivors became the prey of a violent and fatal sickness. They wintered along the shore of the Bedford Basin, and died there by thousands. The commander, d’Anville, died suddenly and was buried on the island now known as George’s Island. The second in command, D’Estournel, committed suicide on his sword, in a fit of despair. La Jonquière then assumed command of the weakened and dispirited force. He burned one of his frigates, and other vessels, the remains of which may still be seen in the Bedford Basin near the Three-Mile House, and also close to Navy Island. Then rallying his command he left to attack Annapolis, but again was the fleet battered and dispersed by storms, and the survivors had to endure many hardships before they reached their native France. Rust-eaten muskets and swords have frequently been found along the Bedford shore when clearing away the underbrush.

Other good routes are those to Dutch Village and the Dingle, to the Chain Lakes, and to the Rocking Stone on the way to St. Margaret’s Bay.

Lawrencetown, about two hours’ drive from Dartmouth, has a good beach with surf-bathing, and may be reached by stage. Chezzetcook, an old Acadian settlement, is also quite accessible in the same way. York Redoubt, Falkland Village and Herring Cove all make pleasant drives.

The Musquodoboit River country to the east of Halifax had French settlements fully half a century before the first British settler arrived at what is now the great stronghold and capital city of Nova Scotia.

Crossing to Dartmouth on the ferry a pleasant road leads to the Dartmouth Lakes. This beautiful chain of lakes is part of a system of waterways intended to be made continuous from Halifax and Dartmouth to the Bay of Fundy, at Maitland and Cobequid Bay, by means of the Shubenacadie River. A canal was to have connected the lakes and river, but the project fell through. The ruins of the old locks at the Dartmouth end are well worth seeing. Excellent views may be enjoyed from Dartmouth and Prince Arthur Parks. Many camping parties are found on the shores of the first and second lakes, and boating is there a favorite recreation.

Another pleasant road is that to Cow Bay, where a fine beach and good bathing may be enjoyed.

“I leave the town with its hundred noises, Its clatter and whir of wheel and steam, For woodland quiet and silvery voices, With a camp of bark by a crystal stream.

Oh, peaceful and sweet are forest slumbers On a fragrant couch with the stars above, As the free soul marches to dulcet numbers Through dreamland valleys of light and love.”

Enjoyable trips may be made from Halifax to the Minas Basin, Grand Pré, and the Annapolis Valley; along the south shore to St. Margaret’s Bay, Chester, and Mahone Bay, Liverpool, Lockeport and Shelburne, and to Lakes Rossignol, Keejim-Koojie, Ponhook, etc.

No port of Canada offers the numerous water trips that may be made from Halifax. Steamers leave here for St. John’s, Newfoundland; St. Pierre-Miquelon, Magdalen Islands, Pictou and Prince Edward Island, Gaspé peninsular points, Sydney, Ingonish, Aspy Bay, Louisbourg, Glace Bay, Bras d’Or Lakes, Port Hood, Mabou and many other Cape Breton points; Guysboro, Mulgrave and other ports in the Strait of Canso; Country Harbor, Isaacs Harbor, Sherbrooke, Liscomb, Sonora, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, and many places along the east shore; Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelburne, Yarmouth on the south shore; St. John, N.B.; and finally, not including transatlantic ports, there are trips to Jamaica and Santiago: and to New York, Boston and Philadelphia.

Other particulars of Halifax and eastern shore localities will be found in the chapter on “Where to Go.” The deep-sea fisheries of the South Shore are very large and important, and at Halifax and elsewhere along the coast ample opportunities are found for catching swordfish, leaping tuna, mackerel, codfish and haddock, etc. Whaling was formerly carried on by numerous vessels outfitting and sailing from Halifax. A settlement of Nantucket Whalers was made in Dartmouth, but they afterwards left; and the whaling industry gradually died out as a result of the great slaughter of those fish in early days.

_Nova Scotia, North and East_

Between Truro and Stellarton there is a continuance of the pleasant scenery found in the Truro Valley; but the Northumberland Straits Shore and neighboring territory between Oxford Junction and Stellarton, and beyond that to Mulgrave and the Strait of Canso, has features of its own quite unlike those of the country previously described. The nearest approach in general characteristics is found at the mouth of the Miramichi, and in the neighborhood of Point du Chene. It is a country of meadow lands and tranquil rivers, although as Antigonish and other places are approached the meadows are frequently varied by the addition of hills and occasional rolling land.

It is a land of verdure and freshness; and if bold mountain ranges are absent, in their place will be found prolific meadows, luxurious tree-growth, quiet streams, singing birds, and abundant floral life.

“’Twas in June’s bright and glorious prime, The loveliest of the summer time, The laurels were one splendid sheet Of crowded blossoms every where; The locust’s clustered pearl was sweet, And the tall whitewood made the air Delicious with the fragrance shed From the gold flowers all o’er it spread.”

Pugwash is a quiet and modest little watering place on the Northumberland Straits, only a short run from Oxford Junction. There is bathing on the shore, and boating in the excellent harbor. Some bungalows have been erected in a fine situation for the water view and the cool evening air. Like most of the places that are a little remote from the beaten highway of travel, Pugwash is quite quaint in its appearance and everyday life. The streets are very pleasant, there are plenty of river views and walks, and there are many good roads. It is one of those places where a very quiet and restful summer may be spent at very moderate expense.

The scenery by Tatamagouche River, and also by the Swiss settlement of River John, is very enjoyable. A pleasing sheet of water is at Tatamagouche. The land is low, but the bay winds and turns and has little coves in it, so that it makes an attractive waterway for boating and canoeing. Malagash Point makes out at the far western extremity of the main bay. The Tatamagouche is a pretty little stream with picturesque banks—the flat country here gradually taking a moderate elevation in parts. River John is a stream of fair proportions, nicely wooded with young trees along its gentle sloping banks of brightest green. Going east from here the country becomes somewhat undulating, and on approaching Lyon’s Brook and Pictou, hills of bolder height are seen.

The country through which we are passing is that of the blackbird and the bobolink, and the rivers, water reaches and tall grasses are the homes of wild fowl of almost every kind.

“The redwinged merle, from bending spray On graceful pinions poising, Pours out a liquid roundelay In jubilant rejoicing. The cock-grouse drums on sounding log, The fox forsakes his cover, The woodcock pipes from fen and bog, From upland leas the plover.

The speckled trout dart up the stream, Beneath the rustic bridges, While flocks of pigeons glance and gleam O’er beach and maple ridges. The golden robin trills his note Among the netted shadows, The bobolink with mellow throat Makes musical the meadows.”

Pictou is situated on a fine harbor, possibly the finest along the shore, which has three rivers emptying into it. It is a delightful little summer resort, where many enjoyable drives may be taken into the surrounding country. Walks about will reveal many charming spots. There are pretty brooks, and refreshing woodland walks. The boating is excellent, and the nearby shore offers pleasant variety in coves and tiny creeks. There is a clean sand beach for sheltered or harbor bathing. Good trout fishing will also be found in the surrounding streams. Lord Strathcona has a summer home in the neighborhood. The East River communicates with New Glasgow, only some 9 miles distant. The growing town of Westville is on the Middle River. West River has much pretty scenery along its course, and it is here that most of the fishing is done.

Pictou was once the site of a large Indian village. Later the French tried to build up a settlement and they were followed by Pennsylvanians from the neighborhood of Philadelphia. Finally, many hardy Highlanders found their way here, and by them the real settlement was made. At the mouth of Pictou harbor the last fight between the Kennebec and Micmac Indians took place.

Stages leave here for many places of interest along the shore, and also to some inland points. Steamships also leave for Prince Edward Island, for Quebec and St. Lawrence Gulf ports, for Hawkesbury and the Strait of Canso, and for West Cape Breton and the Magdalen Islands.

The whole neighborhood is a pleasant one, and, in addition, there is some of the life of a busy little town that many tourists consider essential in a summer stopping-place.

1. Pictou 2. South River, Antigonish 3. West River, Stellarton 4. Garden of Eden Lake 5. Grey’s Falls, Hopewell 6. Antigonish, Cattle on the Intervale

The country between Truro and Stellarton on the southern loop or main line of the Intercolonial Railway has not been opened up or developed for summer visitors. It is nevertheless a beautiful country; and walks, drives and excursions by rail from Truro or New Glasgow along the pretty hills, vales and streams will bring much pleasure.

Stellarton and New Glasgow are growing and prosperous coal-mining and manufacturing centres. Stellarton is the centre of a coal district from which immense quantities of that valuable fuel have been mined. New Glasgow is a bright and up-to-date town with excellent stores and commercial facilities. There are pleasant drives along the East River, and to the south.

Proceeding east past Merigomish and other small places, the very interesting and pretty town of Antigonish, at the head of a small harbor on St. George’s Bay, is reached. It is a Scottish settlement that has more individuality and charm than would be thought possible for a town on a railroad. It is a place of pleasant shady streets, picturesque hills, winding streams and numerous bridges. Its fine Catholic Cathedral and modern College are conspicuous objects from all around. Antigonish is not spoiled by the proximity of a large city, and so the life of the surrounding country centres in the busy little place; and it is one of those delightful places that somehow appeal to the heart from the first moment of arrival.

The harbor is some distance off, and, being shallow, is little used. There are very pleasant drives in every direction. For a pleasant stay in a pretty country town, few places will please more than this; and for those who like that pastime, some canoeing may be done in the adjacent waters. The climate is very enjoyable, mild and temperate. The nights are lovely.

“On summer nights the yellow stars Shine through the watches held on high Suspended from the countless spars Of cloud-fleets anchored in the sky; And wafted past upon the breeze Slow winding down from distant heights There comes the roll of far-off seas On summer nights.

* * * * *

On summer nights the steadfast stars Swing from the masts of shadow ships That lie within the harbor bars Where the long sea-roll curls and dips; And still there comes in divers keys Down drifting from those beacon lights The spectral wash of far-off seas On summer nights.”

Antigonish is an important centre for stage coach and other drives to many places of great interest. The route to Lochaber, College Lake and Sherbrooke leads past the Antigonish Mountains to the St. Mary’s River and Atlantic Ocean on the south, and is full of variety. There are drives to Morristown and Georgeville, and to Malignant Cove by a delightful road through the hills. It was here that the British frigate _Malignant_ took the shore in a heavy gale. Near here is the Scottish settlement of Arisaig, which has a romantic situation and a little shelter-harbor.

At Heatherton Station a stage may be taken for Guysboro at the head of Chedabucto Bay. It is a most interesting drive. Beyond Heatherton lies Tracadie, a quaint French district where there is a Trappist Monastery, the Belgian Monks of which make excellent farmers. Both in Tracadie and Harbor au Bouche a quaint old-time life is lived, and the places are well worth a visit.