Part 10
The once fire-swept, but again busy and prosperous, town of Campbellton stands at the head of the navigable deep-water of Chaleur Bay. The surrounding country is well diversified and exceedingly picturesque with its valleys and conical hills. The Sugar Loaf boldly overlooks all from an elevation of over 900 feet. An excellent view of the broad Restigouche River may be had from almost any part of the town. Campbellton has good wharves and much shipping; it is also a busy Intercolonial Railway centre. Because of its admirable situation it is a natural centre for hunting, fishing and canoeing trips, and it makes a good base for camping-out parties. It is also finely adapted for summer residence of those who like to spend their vacation in a town centre convenient to outlying country and places of interest.
Almost directly over the river is Cross Point, sometimes called Mission Point. Here there is a reservation occupied by 500 Micmac Indians. They are skilled in woodcraft and the management of canoes, and make excellent guides.
A few miles up the Restigouche above Campbellton a naval encounter took place between the French and English, off Restigouche, that resulted in the capture of the French and the destruction of the shore defences at Battery Point. The whole place went up in flames. Pieces of the old French vessels, and artillery, shells and scraps of camp fittings have been found in the neighborhood.
Dalhousie with its extensive water front, divided between river and bay shore, its streets of generous length and proportion and its pleasant walks and cool air, is a quiet place for summer enjoyments. Here, as at Campbellton, there are splendid opportunities for motor-boating open to those who take their own boats. There is a very comfortable and homelike summer hotel on the ocean front, about two miles from the Intercolonial Railway station. Here boats are provided free of charge to guests. There is excellent bathing, with good country and coastwise walks and rambles. A pleasant life with restful surroundings may be enjoyed here. The islands off the shore make pleasant objectives for boating trips, and the natural arch of rock in a little sandy cove, reached through the fields, is a good direction in which to take a quiet stroll. The beach is very enjoyable, and ladies spend many happy hours here watching the children boating and playing in the sand.
Charlo River is one of that fine chain of watering places or summer resorts that stretches down the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Atlantic shore, following the line of the Intercolonial Railway. From Charlo, and east, the wide, open waters of the Gulf are gradually reached; but strong as this district is in water privileges and cool air, it has other features that are almost greater. For Charlo is one of those delightful country places where fine woods abound, where glorious country roads stretch out in many a shady avenue of noble trees, and where a romantic river dashes and plays over rocks, tumbles over falls, courses through gorges, ripples under bridges, rests by the meadows and slumbers under the shady hills. For fishermen it has great attraction, because it is an “open” stream; but a still greater lure is the fact that fine salmon are caught there, and the waters are not fished out. For some reason, probably because of its pure water, salmon often turn into the Charlo in large numbers. On that account and because of the total absence of urban life, excellent fishing is the result.
The Charlo is a stream full of beauty, and one that the nature-lover may enjoy to his heart’s content. The country around and every approach to the river is clean, picturesque and unspoiled by vandal crowds. There are no excitements and no startling incidents in the quiet life of the place. On the other hand, there is every suitable surrounding and inducement to enjoy nature, to live a life of quiet ease varied by healthful recreation amidst enjoyable surroundings—a life that best fits the vacationist for active winter work in the crowded city.
The conformation of the country through which the river runs is such that fishing may readily be done in many places without boats. Another advantage is that the river is close at hand. It is not necessary to go a considerable distance before a line may be well cast, for a short walk leads to woodland depths, leafy shade and the secluded, rippling stream.
1. Natural Arch, Dalhousie 2. The Rippling Charlo 3. Tea in the Woods, Charlo River 4. Fishing in the Charlo River 5. Charlo Falls 6. Jacquet River
A pleasant and comfortable place is found at Henderson’s, near the bay shore, not far from the mouth of the Charlo River, where there is a combination of country hotel, farmhouse and home. Here visitors will feel at home from the moment they arrive.
The house, built somewhat on the old French plan with an open court behind and upper story verandas, has excellent porches surrounding it, a pleasant outlook, and the bay shore a short distance in its rear accessible for boating and bathing.
Bungalows are being erected, and a very enjoyable social life is enjoyed by the happy fraternity that congregates here from various parts of Canada and the U.S.A. A plan sometimes followed is that of living in a simple but comfortable bungalow on the shore, taking meals at the inn. Shacks and tents are also put up by the proprietor for those who wish to enjoy outdoor life to its full extent.
Charlo, then, is one of those rare places where the sportsman may take his wife and family, with the certainty of being comfortably housed and cared for, and where all may amuse themselves with quiet recreations of a healthful kind while he is away fishing the stream for the noble salmon. It is also one of those summer places where there are no throngs, and where the number found assembled in the summer time is just right for social blending in one happy colony. When the fishermen have returned, and all have admired the day’s catch, and when supper is over, how pleasant as twilight is setting in to gather on the porches for intercourse, to recline in easy chair, or to swing lazily in hammock for rest.
And as the young people wander off in “twos” and “threes,” but mostly in “twos,” to see the glorious sunset from the porch of a St. Lawrence bungalow or cottage; the fisherman, the nature-lover, the charming bevy of young married ladies, their attentive husbands, the sedate couples of riper age, and even the militant suffragette who did not go off in one of the “twos”—all these gather to enjoy the _dolce far niente_ of a cool, summer evening in Charlo.
A larger stream than the Charlo, but one that has its fishing rights leased, is the Jacquet River. Arrangements may easily be made, however, by which a day or two or a week’s fishing, or longer, may be obtained at moderate cost. There is a growing feeling in many pleasant places, such as Jacquet River, that individual fishing rights retard the growth of a place, and it is likely that here and in other districts leading men of the neighborhood will buy in the fishing rights, not for their own use, but to charge a reasonable fee by the day or week for those who would then come to fish.
The whole neighborhood of the Jacquet River is a pleasant one, with good woods and shady roads. There is a picturesque little cove, with high and rocky banks, where boats may be kept, and the sandy beach of which offers a desirable spot for children’s play. The upper reaches of the river are quite pretty, the drives are good, and the country is well varied with hill and dale.
Passing east along the bay shore and dipping south by the water-bend that forms Nepisiguit Bay, the town of Bathurst is reached. This, one of the principal sporting centres of the province, is in itself a pleasant summer resort, and, in addition, is a starting point for a series of inner country places, as well as for tours and journeys over the Nepisiguit River and to the interior lakes. The town is situated on a tidal lagoon which is an inlet from the great Chaleur Bay. The Nepisiguit and three smaller rivers empty their waters here, and one of these, the Tête-a-gauche, or Fairy River, has a small but very picturesque fall. The Nepisiguit, as is well known, is one of the finest salmon rivers of the province, and the Nepisiguit Lakes teem with trout. Moose, deer and game birds are also here in abundance. Guides and canoes may be obtained in the district. Those interested in hunting and fishing should consult Chapters IV. and XV. where other information of the kind is given.
Pabineau, the Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit, and the upper waters of the river may all be reached from Nepisiguit Junction, from whence the short line of the Northern New Brunswick Railway leads, and by which a way to these places and the inner lakes is opened. In this direction many pleasant outings may be enjoyed. To picnic by the rushing rapids, or on a bluff in full view of the falls, is a unique experience and one that will be long remembered. The short railroad referred to, which connects Bathurst with the iron mines of the Nepisiguit, is a regular sporting highway—in summer for the fishing, and in the fall for hunting.
The eastern arm of the Chaleur Bay is traversed by a railroad that runs from Gloucester Junction and Bathurst to Caraquet, Shippegan and Tracadie. There are several quiet places on this shore that are quite quaint, and suited for those who wish to be off the main route of travel. Caraquet is a pleasant little Acadian settlement where sea fishing is carried on. Shippegan is on an excellent harbor, and here deep-sea fishing and cool air may be enjoyed. From Shippegan a crossing may be made by boat to the island of the same name, a distance of about a mile. From Miscou Harbor, at the northern end of Shippegan Island, a crossing may be made in quiet water to the outermost island of Miscou, or a boat may be taken instead from Caraquet. Both of these islands afford the best of wild-bird shooting in the fall, such as geese, duck, plover, etc. Miscou is an old French settlement, and from its harbor many boats were formerly engaged in walrus hunting. Off Miscou a curious fresh-water spring spouts up through the briny sea and retains its freshness. Fishermen obtain drinking water here without the necessity for going ashore.
The whole Chaleur shore from the region of Charlo River down to Bathurst is a network of small rivers and streams where trout may always be found; and because of their favorable position the pleasant towns and villages that line this coast are sure to grow and increase in favor as summer places.
_The Miramichi River and Nashwaak Valley Districts_
Proceeding south on the Intercolonial Railway, the important centre of Newcastle on the Miramichi River is reached. Here the fine river Miramichi empties into Miramichi Bay, passing first through the island-protected inner bay that makes such a broad approach to Chatham and the wide Miramichi at Newcastle. The prosperous towns of Chatham and Newcastle are therefore natural centres for outfitting and starting on river journeys of such extent that the whole of Central New Brunswick may easily be reached; and not only that, but also Tobique River and the west, the St. John and Madawaska to the far west, the Restigouche and Matapedia Rivers to the north-west, the Upsalquitch and Nepisiguit Rivers to the north, the Nashwaak and St. John Rivers to the south-west, and Grand Lake, Canaan and Kennebecasis Rivers and the Bay of Fundy to the south are all made accessible by the Miramichi River.
This grand system of waterways has no parallel elsewhere. Canoeing, fishing, etc., over such an extensive chain of rivers is a joy that, once tasted, calls back the happy nature lover again and again to the fascination of continued exploration in a country that is full of variety and beauty.
By this time the traveller has fairly entered New Brunswick, and he cannot have failed to observe many differences between this province and that he has recently left. Quebec is the old world, with scarcely anything of the new in it, save its scenery, distinctive of the Western Continent. New Brunswick, in its life, seems to typify admirably the happy position occupied by all Canada, a position midway between that of Old England and the great republic to the south. With a strong sheet anchor of conservatism and respect for old and tried institutions fastened firmly in Britain’s shore, the far-reaching and unbreakable cable, or indissoluble bond, of attachment and love for the mother country reaches out; but the sails of the ship of state are not furled, and the good ship _Canada_ does not ride inactive while the breezes of modern progress and thought pass idly over her bare spars; for her sails are unfurled and turned to the growing breeze, and when that wind blows steadily from one direction instead of in cats-paws, eddies and squalls—the noble vessel will draw up on her anchor, and her canvas will fill to the breeze as she sails steadily forward.
And so the New Brunswicker, if you ask him how he is, will not reply, like our British Cousin, “Quite well, thank you; how are you?” Nor will he tell you he feels “great” or “fine”, like our American cousin. Instead, he will tell you he is “Not too bad!” which, as will be apparent, is about half way between the other expressions. If you ask a New Brunswicker, “Is it going to rain to-day?” he will reply, “I don’t think!” Do not be deceived. This does not mean that he does _not_ think; it is his way of saying “I think not.” He will be found genial, pleasant and manly, with a keen eye to the main chance, but not making money his worship—as yet.
Miramichi Bay, or “Bay of Boats,” was visited by Jacques Cartier. So many savages put out in their canoes that the bay was literally covered by them—hence the name. Indeed, Cartier had to fire off cannon to frighten them away lest they should swarm on and overrun his little vessels. The next day the explorer made friends with the Indians by giving a red hat to their chief.
The town of Chatham has a particularly fine situation near the mouth of the river. Here large ocean steamships load their cargoes of pulpwood blocks, timber and lumber, etc., for all parts of the world. It is a splendid point for fitting out with fishing and hunting equipment, and a convenient base for hunting, fishing and camping-out parties. Enjoyable shorter trips may be taken down the bay to Tabusintac, Neguac and Portage Island, as well as to Fox island, Loggieville and Escuminac. Some of these places are excellent for trout and wild-birds.
At Kent Junction, south of Chatham, on the line of the Intercolonial Railway, train connections may be made for Kouchibouguac Bay, the Kouchibouguacis River, and also for the pleasant resort of Richibucto.
Newcastle is another centre, equipping-point and starting-place for river trips, fishing, hunting, etc. It has a fine situation on Miramichi Bay, and considerable shipping may be seen at the wharves and mills on the water front. On this river, as on the rivers of New Brunswick generally, the extent of the lumbering operations may be judged from the timber rafts and immense quantities of logs floating down stream on their way to the timber-booms and saw-mills.
There is a pleasant trip up the Miramichi by steamer as far as Red Bank, and down the bay to Chatham, and seaward there are other interesting steamer routes. Newcastle makes a very pleasant summer stopping-place, as it is quite convenient to many places of interest in the neighborhood.
From Derby Junction on one side of the river and from Chatham Junction on the other, two Intercolonial lines run by the Miramichi to Blackville, where they join. From this point the line runs to Fredericton along the river valley, and, from where the Miramichi turns westward, the railroad keeps its southern course and follows the Nashwaak river to its junction with the St. John.
The Indian word Miramichi means “Happy Retreat,” and this describes its character not only for the old-time “Children of the Forest,” but for the summer visitor as well. It is one of the largest and most important rivers of the province. It has its source in a lake not far from the distant Tobique River. It flows with considerable rapidity in some places, and in the main over a bed of shingle and gravel. The North-West and the Little South-West branches are dotted with pleasant little hamlets in their lower reaches. The Renous, Dungarvon, Batholomew and Cain’s Rivers all discharge into its lower waters, and well above Blackville the pretty little Taxis River at Boiestown marks the westerly turn of the main or South-West Miramichi. At Cross Creek the easterly running Nashwaak turns abruptly south, and over the heights and along this picturesque valley the railway reaches the St. John River, and crosses over it to the southern bank on which Fredericton is so beautifully placed.
In addition to the main river and its large tributaries, there are numerous smaller streams and brooks that plash and fall or glide smoothly along to swell the Miramichi; and there is hardly a town or village along the route just traced that does not afford good fishing and hunting, as well as all the joys the nature-lover knows well he will find in such a superbly-watered and well-wooded country. For touring to see the beauties of nature, for drives from the principal centres, and for walking expeditions, no richer or prettier country could be found. This is also the very heart of a great hunting country. Indeed, it is a common thing to look from the passing train and see the deer browsing and bounding gracefully within a stone’s throw of the track, or standing motionless by the edge of some nearby thicket.
The Nashwaak itself has its own network of pretty little tributaries, not least of which is the charming Tay; and here as in so many parts of New Brunswick it is difficult to alight at random in a place that has not water and canoeing facilities.
The following description of a canoe trip on the Nashwaak is typical of hundreds of similar journeys that can be taken along the course recently traced, and indeed on any of the rivers and waterways, great and small, with which the province is so liberally endowed. As it is most convenient to make this particular excursion from Fredericton, that place is taken as the starting point from which the canoe puts out.
It is a bright morning, the air is playing in a gentle breeze, and the St. John River gleams with many a dancing ripple as we take our way well up stream to drop down quietly with the current as we drink in the glorious view on every hand. Higher up, where the banks become bolder, the lumbermen’s piers of stone, cribbed in with timber, and overgrown with young tree shoots and wild-flowers in profusion, line the centre of the stream like so many ornamental gardens.
Yon shimmering surface in the distant valley, at the foot of a bold hill, is not a placid lake bathed in the beams of the early sun—it is a white and fleecy morning mist catching the side rays horizontally and reflecting them in long pencils of light.
1. Boating on the Nashwaak 2. A New Brunswick Waterfall 3. Boating on the Nashwaaksis 4. Armstrong’s Brook, Jacquet River 5. New Brunswick Farm Scene—Pigs in Clover
At times the hills and woodland over there terminate abruptly in long stretches of perfectly smooth meadow-land, stretching out like a well-laid carpet, and with only an occasional high tree by the edge to mark the course of the river.
We are nearly opposite the Nashwaak, and paddling across the northern half of the broad St. John we reach the rich meadows that lie at the mouth of the stream upon which we shall soon float.
Gliding up stream with easy paddling, the covered bridge is reached and we thread our way through the loose floating boards and made-up rafts of deal that mark the lumberman’s highway. A little further up, however, a stop is made, for here is a boom of heavy timbers, chained directly across the stream. We soon find a place where there is a clear waterway near the shore, some three or four feet wide, and pushing through this we speed on.
But the rippling murmur of water falls on our ears, and looking ahead we see the wavelets, eddies and bubbles that mark a swiftly flowing current. Bending to with a will, and at times using the paddle as a pole in very stiff water, we manage to work our way up higher.
And now another obstruction is met, a boom that completely closes the way, with no water passageway of any kind. And so, keeping inshore and balancing on one of the logs, while using one hand for support against the almost perpendicular bank, we pull the canoe over the boom, step in, and once more proceed on our way.
The lively kingfisher makes flights up the stream in advance of our progress, sweeping down at times with unerring eye to seize his prey from under the surface of the water, and then resting on some projecting tree branch he gives opportunity for admiring his comely appearance before our near presence warns him to renewed flight. Well up above the water, but skimming the trees and brushing the leaves as he flies, he keeps us company, and soon is joined by other merry fellows that make the way lively.
Here is a huge eagle with a wing-spread of five or six feet, at least. Seemingly unafraid, he drops almost alongside on the bank that runs down to a flat sand strip; and as he stands still as we pass, we can see the pure white of his head and tail, and notice his powerful wings as he again soars in the air.
Wild canaries, also, are quite numerous; and the canoe voyager on the Nashwaak has no lack of pleasant company.
Several pieces of swift water have been passed, and at one point where the river meets an island and has a steep descent and sharp bend of the channel, the rushing fall of water carries us nearly into the shore; and it takes both paddles to make any progress by “poling” or pushing on the bottom of the river.
Going further, we look with apprehension on an apparently insurmountable barrier in the form of an immense log, wedged solidly across stream between the high banks, with a very narrow channel and, of course, plenty of rushing water. The log does not touch the water, being held in position about a foot, or less, above it. Holding to the huge barrier we force the head of the canoe beneath it, and pressing down with united weight we manage to get past by scrambling over the log and dropping into the canoe as it passes clear.
A very pretty stretch of water now marks the gradual approach to the Marysville dam, and here occasional streaks of rapid water are found as the channel contracts. At last we reach the foaming run, or rapid, just below the fall, and a lively time ensues before the canoe is brought right under the curtain of the waterfall. Turning now to descend, the full current of the rapid is behind. Watching until we head right, and planning to reach a quiet pool below, to rest awhile, our skilful guide propels us boldly into the midst of the foaming current.