Part 12
We are now at Barium, Bari, the original Bari of the West, as distinguished from the Bari, _Bar_, _Antibaris_, _Antivari_, which repeats its name on the opposite coast. There we can now again, as we could have done seventy years back at Cattaro, land at a Montenegrin haven. The distinction between the two bearers of the name of Bari implies an association which is not out of place. The historic interest of Bari gathers wholly round its connexion with the lands on the other side of Hadria. In earlier days the place has really no history whatever. Its most memorable day was when the powers of the Eastern and Western Empires--powers which perhaps never again worked in such harmony--were needed to dislodge a Saracen Sultan from its walls. "Emir," some one will say, not "Sultan," and certainly we are more used in Europe to Sultans of much later date than the days of Lewis the Second and Basil the First, Sultans coming from quite other lands than any that can have sent forth the Mussulman prince of Bari. But he is called Sultan as well as Emir by his one biographer, the Emperor Constantine, and we cannot appeal from those august pages which still form the best guide-book to the eastern shores of the Hadriatic. Anyhow, the Sultan of Bari was a philosopher; he never laughed, except once when he saw a wheel go round; for that reminded him of the ups and downs of his own fortunes. Then Bari passes to the rule of the Eastern Empire; instead of a Sultan it has a Katapan, representative of the Eastern Augustus in that Italian dominion which had become so small at the beginning of the ninth century, and which was so great again at its end. Threatened again at the beginning of the eleventh century by new Saracen invaders, it is guarded by the fleets of Venice, still the faithful vassal of Constantinople against a common enemy. Seventy years later the arms of Robert Wiscard added the capital of Byzantine Italy to his Norman dominion, and before the century was out, Pope Urban, the great stirrer of the West against the Mussulman East, chose Bari as the scene of the Council called to denounce at once the practical abuses of the Christian West and the dogmatic errors of the Christian East. Once more, in the next age, we find Bari looking across the sea to its old lord, and chastised by the Sicilian king for its disloyalty. Add that Bari, before all saints, still honours St. Nicolas of the Lykian Myra, and keeps his relics sacred, we are told, from Turkish desecration by the craft of merchants of her own city. Altogether Bari seems, at least in its history, as much Greek as Italian or Norman. It would seem neither unnatural nor unpleasant if Greek were still the tongue of the seafaring folk of Bari, much as a Norman in his own land often carries an air about him which would make Danish seem a much more natural speech for him than French.
But the great buildings of Bari belong to that mixed Norman and Italian style of which we have already seen something at Bitonto. The architectural attractions of the city are chiefly to be found in two great churches and one smaller one. The castle, standing by the sea, should have its landward side walked round, and the walk will reveal much of picturesque outline and a little of good detail. But it is the churches, above all the great abbey of St. Nicolas, which are the glory of Bari. They all lie in the old town by the sea, the old town of narrow and crooked streets, in which it does not much matter which way you go; you are sure to come either to the castle or to one of the churches before very long. Very different are things in the new town, which we may rejoice in as we look at it as a sign of Bari's abiding or renewed prosperity, but which can raise no feelings of pleasure on any other ground. Its streets, crossing each other at right angles, are indeed carefully dedicated to the worthies of Bari; but, unless we can always remember which of several perhaps not very familiar worthies watches over each of several angles which are exactly alike, it is easy to take a wrong turn and to put oneself under the care of Andrew of Bari when we ought rather to be commending ourselves to Robert. And under either protection we yearn in the wide straight streets for some physical shelter from the Apulian sun, and wonder why modern Rome, modern Athens, and modern Bari should have so much less common sense than Bologna, Padua, and Corfu had in days long past. Still, amid this rectangular labyrinth the sea is a help on one side, while on another the tall tower of the metropolitan church of St. Sabinus beckons us into the older streets, whose narrowness and crookedness at least supply shade. That tower, one of the tallest and stateliest of Italy, we naturally assume to be a detached campanile, without a fellow and standing apart from its confederate buildings, church and baptistery. So it doubtless would be in a purely Italian city; but here we are in the city where the Norman displaced the Greek. The two great churches of Bari, like that of Bitonto, have their towers wrought into the building in Norman fashion, and at the _duomo_ the great round baptistery is also merged in the same mass with the church and its towers. Both of the great churches of Bari have east ends of the same kind as that at Bitonto; the apses are swallowed up; the place where the great apse should be is marked by a single splendid Romanesque window. The eastern towers of St. Nicolas have never been carried up; at St. Sabinus the southern one has perished, but the northern one still soars in all its majesty, thoroughly Italian in its conception, but rather to be called Norman in its detail. St. Nicolas has also another pair of unfinished towers at its west end, standing at once beyond the aisles as at Wells and Rouen, and in front of them as at Holyrood. They flank a grand Italian front which one would think would be finer without them. These western towers are absent in the metropolitan church; but that has a most perfect octagonal cupola over the crossing, the grouping of which with the two lofty eastern towers, if there was any point from which it could really be seen, must have been wonderful. Thus, in both churches, something of a German outline has either been consciously brought in or has been incidentally stumbled on. The four towers of St. Nicolas, the octagon and eastern tower of St. Sabinus, will easily find Rhenish fellows, though we should perhaps have to go as far as Angoulême for a single tower of equal majesty mourning over a vanished brother. In other points the external arrangements of the two great churches of Bari have much in common. The rose windows, the coupled windows, the blank arcades, are much the same in both. So is the choice of animal forms for the fanciful supports of columns. In most places the lion discharges that function--in a building designed by lions we should doubtless see something different. So we do here at Bari, where the solid forms of the _pachydermata_ are, perhaps discreetly, preferred to the lighter _carnivora_. The elephant, we think, is to be found in both churches, and the huge earth-shaking beast is represented so as to remind us both of Pyrrhos and of Hannibal; some have the smaller ear of India, some the larger of Africa. The hippopotamus appears only in the west front of St. Nicolas. Had the daring shipfolk who bore away the saint's bones from Lykia made their way to the Nile also?
When we pass the threshold of the two buildings we see that their fate in modern times has been very different. St. Sabinus has suffered much as Bitonto has suffered. The upper part of the building is hidden in just the same fashion, and ugly tricks have been played with the columns and their capitals. St. Nicolas, on the other hand, has been left comparatively alone. The chief changes which it has undergone must have taken place not very long after the original building. The original plan was much the same as that of Bitonto--three arches from columns, a massive pier, then three more arches from columns. But this arrangement was disturbed at an early time by throwing three spanning arches across the nave. The effect is so striking that we can hardly regret their presence; but it is perfectly easy to see that they are insertions, and, though they are essentially of the same style, yet they differ in their details from the original columns. These last all approach more or less to the Corinthian type; in the under-church the patterns are more varied. Here are still the wonder-working relics of St. Nicolas, and the balsam or "manna" which flows from them may still be drunk. In the _duomo_ the under-church has been restored out of all ancient character, but it still keeps an ancient Byzantine picture.
As so often happens, the secondary church of Bari altogether surpassed the mother church in historic fame and local honour. To ourselves the fact in its history which comes home most nearly is that it was here that Urban held his Council, here that Anselm, to the satisfaction of all Western minds, refuted the creed of the East, here that he interceded with the Pontiff and the assembled fathers on behalf of the king who had wronged him. Here too it was that the keen eye of English Eadmer spied out on the shoulders of the Archbishop of Beneventum the splendid cope which is no longer to be seen at Beneventum. Such little touches in those days often brought the ends of the world together in a way to which, in our days of more general intercourse, nothing answers. When French was the polite language alike at Dunfermline and at Jerusalem, when the Latin-speaking clerk was at home in any corner of the West, when the few men of the West who had learned Greek spoke it so that a Greek could understand them, when men passed to and fro between the civil services of England and Sicily, communication between distant parts of Europe was in some ways easier than it is now. Bari, one of the chief places for setting out on crusades, must for a long time have been a thoroughly cosmopolitan city. We do feel that the ends of the earth have combined to meet at Bari, when we find the place of honour in the church of St. Nicolas at Bari held by a princess of Bari, who became Queen of the greatest Slavonic kingdom. Emblematic figures of Bari and Poland support the tomb of Queen Bona, and her epitaph describes her husband Sigismund, the first of that name, as not only the mighty King of Poland, but Grand-Duke of Lithuania, Russia, Prussia, Mazovia, and Samogitia. Yet we might have lighted on Slavonic associations earlier on the road. There is a strange record of a Bulgarian settlement in the parts of Beneventum; but that would take us yet further afield: it was before Bulgarians became Slavonic. But what are we to say to the Samnite _Schiavia_ which sheltered Anselm?
The journey is done--
"Brundisium longæ finis cartæque viæque."
Otranto lies yet further; but Otranto, yet more notably than Bari, comes within the Venetian _Notitia_. So does Brundisium, city of the stag's horn, of the haven so aptly called, if we only knew in what tongue it is that _Brentesium_ has that meaning. But we are tempted to regret that Brindisi and not Otranto is the point for which Hadria has to be crossed. Brindisi has no moral claim. We cannot look thence, as we can from Otranto, upon the mountains of still enslaved Epeiros; no one is tempted even to dream that he looks on free Corfu or on the lesser satellite that stands in front as its outpost.
INDEX.
A
_Alatri_, its alliance with Rome, 206; its special interest to be found in its primæval remains, 207; not named in the Itineraries, _ib._; its walls, 209, 212 _et seq._; position of the _arx_, 210, 213; its cathedral church on the site of the primæval temple, 211, 212, 219; gateway of the _arx_, 215; contrasted with Mykênê, 216; mediæval remains at, 298; church of Sta. Maria Maggiore at, _ib._; its domestic architecture, _ib._
_Alba_, its destruction, 110, 112, 120; use of the name, _ib._; Roman villas at, 111, 112; analogy of its relation to Albano with that of Spalato and Salona, 112. See _Albano_.
_Alban Lake_, the, 110, 114, 119, 165
_Alban Mount_, the, 110, 119, 165; remains of temple of Jupiter Latiaris on, 111, 122, 142
_Albania_, use of the name, 108, 109
_Albano_ (Alba), imperial dwelling-place, 112; its relation to Alba contrasted with that of Spalato and Salona, _ib._; tomb of Pompeius at, 113; so-called tomb of Aruns at, _ib._
_Ἀλβανοί_, use of the name, 109, 110, 222
_Albanum_. See _Albano_.
_Alexander III._, Pope, consecrated at Ninfa, 147
_Anagni_ (Anagnia), its position beyond Rome, 167; the city of Boniface VIII., 168; the halting-place of Pyrrhos and Hannibal, 169; head of the Hernican confederation, _ib._, 172; joins the Triple League, 172; physical position of, 173; its ancient walls, _ib._; how they differ from those at Cori and Segni, 174, 175, 179; Hernican Anagnia not in Macaulay's catalogues, 174; variety of construction in its walls, 175-177; question as to their earliest date, 177-180; decline of its power, 179; separate wall of the _arx_, 180; special character of derived from its walls, _ib._, 181; historically famous for its mediæval Popes, 181; rich mediæval remains in, _ib._, 182; compared with Avignon, 181; cathedral church at, 183; the _Locanda d'Italia_ no longer exists at, 219
_Ancona_, triumphal arch of Trajan at, 268
_Anselm_, at Telesia, 256; defends the _Filioque_ at the Council of Bari, 305; sheltered at _Schiavia_, 307
_Antemnæ_, lack of remains at, 88, 94-96; its legendary story, 92; derivation of its name, 93
_Antivari_, Eastern Bari, 280, 295
_Anxur_ (Terracina), 120, 121, 128
_Appian Way_, the, its namesake at Perugia, 28; remains of, 115; arch of Trajan at Beneventum commemorates the repair of, 269
_Apulia_, plain of, 251, 282; mixture of architectural styles in, 293, 294
_Aquileia_, its special position in history, 239, 240
_Arch_, the, early striving after, at Norba, 145; at Signia, 160-162; its principle known at Anagni, 175, 179, 180; the true form not found at Alatri, 215; the pointed arch in Southern Italy, Sicily, and Aquitaine Romanesque, not Gothic, 243
_Arches_, triumphal, their purely monumental character, 268, 269
_Arco Gotico_, at Tusculum, origin of the name, 161, 162
_Arezzo_, its historical and physical position, 1-7, 13; its Medicean walls, 4, 5; lack of domestic architecture in, 8; the _Duomo_ and church of Sta. Maria della Pieve, 6, 7, 9-11
_Aricia_, old and new, 114, 115, 126, 165
_Arles_, Roman theatre at, compared with that at Ostia, 103
_Assisi_, præ-Franciscan, its analogy with præ-academic Oxford, 48; the birth-place of Propertius and Metastasio, 48, 49; Roman and mediæval remains in, 49, 52-57; its physical position, 50-52; so-called temple of Minerva at, 52-54; its dedication to Castor and Pollux, _ib._; Roman inscriptions, 54
_Athens_, her sea-port of later origin than Ostia, 99
_Aurelius_, Marcus, Emperor, at Anagnia, 178
_Aversa_, Norman county of, 241
_Avignon_, its papal buildings compared with those of Anagni, 181
B
_Bari_, Western, as opposed to Antivari, 279, 280, 295; under Mussulman rule, 296; won back by both Empires in 871, _ib._; under the Eastern Empire, _ib._; protected by Venice, 297; Norman conquest of, _ib._; council at, held by Pope Urban, _ib._, 305; Greek character of, 298; mixed Norman and Italian style of architecture in, _ib._; Abbey of St. Nicolas and cathedral church of St. Sabinus at, 299-305; its cosmopolitan character, 306; tomb of Bona, Queen of Poland, in church of St. Nicolas, 306, 307
_Barletta_, 285, 287
_Basilicas_, 238-241
_Belisarius_, at Beneventum, 273
_Beneventum_ (Benevento), the battle-ground of Pyrrhos and Manfred, 262, 272, 278; its position in history, 264 _et. seq._; principality of, _ib._; Lombardy duchy of, 266; papal possession of, _ib._; its change of name, _ib._, 267; described by Procopius, _ib._, 279; arch of Trajan at, 268, 271, 272; among the Thirty Cities, 273; Belisarius at, _ib._; taken by Totilas, _ib._; monumental records preserved in its metropolitan church, _ib._, 274; overthrown by Frederick the Second, 274, 275; Canterbury cope worn by archbishop of, 276, 305; the castle, 277; _Quaranta Santi_, 278
_Bitonto_, mixture of Norman and Italian elements in its cathedral church, 288-294
_Bona_, wife of Sigismund, King of Poland, her tomb at Bari, 306, 307
_Boniface VIII._, Pope, his end at Anagni, 164, 168; his vestments kept at Anagni, 183
_Brundisium_ (Brindisi), 285; final point in the journey of Horace and Mæcenas, 307; whence the meaning of _Brentesium_? _ib._, 308
_Bunbury_, Sir E. H., on Anagnia, 177
C
_Calor_ (Calore), tributary stream of Vulturnus, 256, 264
_Campo di Annibale_, 119, 122
_Capua_ (Vulturnum), old and new, 226, 227, 240; amphitheatre, 227-229; contrasted with the Roman coliseum, 228, 229; date of the ancient city, 230; its Roman citizenship, 231; its revolt, 232; Roman conquest of, _ib._, 242; taken by the Saracens, _ib._
_Caserta_, 226, 227
_Casilinum_, new Capua, ancient Capua moved to, 226, 232, 241; Norman principality of, 241, 242
_Cassius_, Spurius, wins over Anagnia to the Triple League, 170, 172
_Castel Gandolfo_, 118, 119
_Castel Giubeleo_, 77, 83. See _Fidenæ_.
_Castiglione Fiorentino_, 13
_Chiana_, tributary of the Arno, 3; valley of the, local tradition assigned to its fossil elephants, 8, 9
_Circeii_ (Monte Circello), 120, 128, 143
_Colline Gate_, the, its historical associations, 79-81, 259, 261
_Constantine Porphyrogenêtos_, his description of the Sultan of Bari, 296
_Cora_ (Cori), its primæval walls, 129, 132, 166, 174; later walls, 131; temple of Hercules, 132, 133, 166; supplanted by church of St. Peter, 132, 134, 135; church of St. Oliva at, 135; its physical position contrasted with Norba, 140, 141
_Corinth_, later stage of her havens, 98; her colonies, _ib._, 99
_Cortona_, its physical position compared with that of Argos and Corinth, 13, 14; compared with Perugia, Laon, and Girgenti, _ib._; owes its distinctive character to its walls, 15, 16, 19-21; its early greatness, 15; its decline, 16; ecclesiastical and municipal buildings in, 17-19; Mykênaian character of its Etruscan gate, 20; the Etruscan Muse, 21, 22; contrasted with Perugia, 23-28
_Cosmo de' Medici_, Duke of Florence and Siena, his inscription at Arezzo, 6; his later title, _ib._
_Creighton_, M. (present Bishop of Peterborough), quoted, 123
D
_Documents_, official, errors in, 200, 201
E
_Eadmer_, at Bari, 305
_Emissarius_, the, of the Alban Lake, 117; contrasted with that of the Fucine Lake, _ib._
_Etruscans_, their cities remain free until the days of Sulla, 20; their analogy with Freemasons, 34, 35; their tongue remains a riddle, 36; their sculpture derives more force from the absence of literature, 37-40; analogy of Etruscan and Roman change of nomenclature with English and Norman, 43, 44; Christian and modern character of their sculpture, 44, 45
F
_Felimna_, Avle, Etruscan tomb of, 42, 43, 197
_Ferentinum_ (Ferentino), whether a Thirty-city, 186, 187, 188; its position, 188; its walls and gateways, 189-192, 202; monument of Aulus Quinctilius at, 193; question as to the date of its walls, 194 _et seq._; inscriptions on the _arx_, 195, 197; alliance of with Rome, 198, 199, 205, 206; wrongly called a _municipium_ by Aulus Gellius, 200, 201; cathedral church at, 202, 205; inner buildings of the _arx_, 204; church of Sta. Maria Maggiore, _ib._
_Fidenæ_, the ally of Veii, 78; destroyed by Rome, _ib._, 85; position of its _arx_, 83, 84; desolation of, 85, 87
_Foggia_, the capital of Apulia, 282; palace of Frederick _II._ at, 283; death of Empress Isabel at, _ib._; church at, _ib._
_Frederick II._, Emperor, destroys Benevento, 274, 275; remains of his palace at Foggia, 283
_Freemasons_, modern, their analogy with ancient Etruscans, 34, 35
_Frosinone_ (Frusino), 208
G
_Gavignano_, 155, 163, 172
_Gellius_, Aulus, his story about Ferentinum, 199
_Girgenti_, compared with Cortona, 14
_Gracchus_, Gaius, his speech quoted by Aulus Gellius, 199
_Gracchus_, Tiberius, his reception at Beneventum, 272, 273
_Gregoriopolis_, 105
_Gsell-fels_, guidebook of, referred to, 59, 152, 167, 283
H
_Hannibal_, son of Hamilkar Barak, at Anagnia, 169, 179; at Capua, 226, 236; revolt of the city to, from Rome, 232, 234; his camp at Tifata, 233, 234; scanty records concerning, 235
_Harpur_, Sir William, Aulus Quinctilius compared to, 192
_Hernicans_, the, scanty records concerning, 170, 255; importance of their geographical position, 170, 171, 172
_Hirtius_, Aulus, censor of Ferentinum, 197, 199, 202
I
_Innocent III._, Pope, his birthplace, whether at Segni or Gavignano, 163; his vestments kept at Anagni, 183
_Isabel_, wife of Frederick II., dies at Foggia, 283
_Italy_, Southern, a part of Hellas, 224, 225; use of the pointed arch in, 243; interest maintained in its cities, 284
K
_Korkyra_ (Corfu), held by Pyrrhos and Manfred, 279; never under the Turk, _ib._, 308
L
_Laon_, compared with Cortona, 14
_Lollius_, Marcus, censor of Ferentinum, 197, 199, 202
M
_Macaulay_, Lord, his verses on the Thirty Cities, 151, 152; Signia not named by, _ib._; Anagnia not in his catalogues, 174; whether Ferentinum is rightly placed by, 187; fittingness of his epithet for Ferentinum, 188
_Manfred_, King of Sicily, 253, 262, 272, 278, 279
_Marcellus_, Marcus Claudius, his triumph by the Alban Mount, 111, 166
_Marcius_, Ancus, traditional founder of Ostia, 97, 98
_Maxim_, Volscian or Hernican, on beggars, 220
_Member of Parliament_, misuse of the name, 201
_Milvian Bridge_, the, its historical associations, 89
_Monte Cavo_, see _Alban Mount_.
_Monte Parioli_, 91
_Muse_, the, of Cortona, 21, 22
N
_Nemi_, Lake of, 114-116, 234, 235
_Ninfa_, 126, 140, 142, 146; its striking desolation, 146-150, 166; its mediæval wall, 147
_Norba_, its ancient wall, 137 _et seq._, 147, 149, 166; its position contrasted with Cora, 140, 141; early strivings after the arch at, 145
_Norma_, 140-142
O
_Opus Signinum_, theory suggested as to its origin, 152
_Ostia_, the haven of Rome, 96, 97, 99, 121; its traditional foundation, 98; an integral part of Rome, 99, 100; its remains endangered by the Tiber, 100, 101, 106, 107; contrasted with Pompeii, 101, 102; _not_ destroyed by the Saracens in the fifth century, 102; Roman remains in, 103; how described by Procopius, _ib._; its early walls, 104; new Ostia, 105
_Otranto_, the entrance-place of the Turk into Western Europe, 223; view of enslaved Epeiros from, 307
_Oxford_, præ-academic, its importance, 47; its analogy with præ-Franciscan Assisi, 48
P
_Parthenôn_, the, its continuance as such, 237
_Perugia_, contrasted with Cortona, 23-28; its historical position, 23-25; physical position, 26; walls of, _ib._, 28; Roman gateways at, 28-31; barbarous treatment of mediæval houses in, 31; the interest of its churches not only due to their paintings, 31-33
_Pius IX._, Pope, his viaduct between Albano and Aricia, 114
_Pompeii_, contrasted with Ostia, 101, 102
_Pompeius Magnus_, Cnæus, his villa and tomb at Alba, 111, 113
_Pomptine Marshes_, the, 128
_Ponte Sodo_, the, at Veii, 74