Part 8

Here are very many barrows upon this side of the hill, all looking toward the sacred work. Hence we survey _Ambresbury_, _Vespasian_’s camp, and _Stonehenge_, the _cursus_, and little _Ambresbury_. Likewise a very ancient barrow which answers to that of _Vespasian_’s camp, seeming to be plac’d here with some regularity and regard to the _sacellum_ at the beginning of the avenue. This is a long barrow, which I suppose the Archdruids who liv’d at _Radfin_, and perhaps the chief person concern’d in projecting the magnificent work. The reader must indulge me the liberty of these kind of conjectures; there is no evidence positive left in such matters of great antiquity. I have some little reason for it, which I shall mention when we speak of the barrows. There is this present use, to affix thereby names to things, that we may talk more intelligibly about them.

We are next to advance down _Haradon_-hill in the same direction, nearer _Radfin_, from whence I drew _Plate_ XXV. This valley leads us very gently to the river.

——————_Qua se subducere colles Incipiunt, mollique jugum demittere clivo Usque ad aquam._—————— Virg.

This and the two views in _Plate_ XXVI. give us a good notion of the country on this side. There are seven barrows together, in the road from _Ambresbury_ to _Radfin_, one great one and six little ones, which regard the _sacellum_, but cannot possibly to _Stonehenge_. This was a family burying-place probably of some considerable personage, who liv’d at _Ambresbury_. These plates show us too, the avenue marching up the next hill, where the old and new seven kings barrows receive it again, as wings to it. This is shown more distinct in the next plate, TAB. XXVII. where the corn ground has began to encroach upon it. I could scarce forbear the wish,

_Pereat labor irritus anni._————

When you are gone a little farther toward _Stonehenge_, and arriv’d at the top of the hill, if you turn back you have the view presented to you like that TAB. XXIV. beyond A the beginning of the avenue, is _Radfin_, beyond that _Haradon_. The prospect forward, toward _Stonehenge_, is shown TAB. XXVIII. There you see the union of the two wings of the avenue, at the commencement of the strait part of it C. Again, you may observe the nature of the west wing of the avenue, going with a continued curve round the bottom of the hill, till it enters the _Hippodrom_ or _cursus_. At a distance you see _Yansbury_ camp, thought to be another of _Vespasian_’s. Next you descend into the valley to the union of the wings of the avenue, and ascend the agreeable part of it, to the temple. Along here went the sacred pomp. How would it delight one to have seen it in its first splendor!

————_Jam nunc solennes ducere pompas Ad delubra juvat, cæsosque videre juvencos._ Virg.

I have often admir’d the delicacy of this ascent to the temple. As soon as you mount from the bottom, ’tis level for a great way together: and the whole length of it is a kind of ridge, for it slopes off both ways from it on each side; so that the rain runs off every way. Just about half way there is a depressure, as a pause or foot pace, showing one half of the avenue ascending, the other descending, both magnificent, in the ancient gusto. There was a temple of _Jupiter Labradæus_ near _Mylasa_ a city of _Caria_, much frequented. The way leading thither was called sacred, and pav’d 60 furlongs, thro’ which their procession went. _Philostratus_ says, you went to the temple of _Diana_ at _Ephesus_, by a stone portico of a _stadium_. _Pausanias in Phocicis_ says, the avenue to the temple of _Minerva Cranea_ near _Elatea_ is ascending, but so gently that it is imperceptible. Again in Chap. X. we read of a pav’d way, to the oracle at _Delphos_. But the natural pavement of our avenue is much finer. I take notice, that _Jupiter Labradæus_ was a statue holding a halbard in his hand, which instrument like a _securis_ or amazonian ax, was as a scepter to the _Lydian_ kings. And apparently our _English_ halbard is the very word, with an asperate way of pronunciation prefix’d, _Labrada_. So our Druids carried about a sharp brass instrument which we often find, call’d a celt, (I know not whence) with which they us’d to cut the _Misletoe_, at their great festival in midwinter. I have represented one hanging at our Druids girdle, in TAB. I. it was to be put into the slit at the end of his staff, when used. But of this hereafter. Now with the _Poet_ in his celebrated _Ode_

—————————————————— _Quibus Mos unde deductus per omne Tempus, Amazonia securi Dextras obarmet, quærere distuli: Nec scire fas est omnia_———— Horat.

being arriv’d again at _Stonehenge_, from the last print, TAB. XXVIII. though small, we may see the beauty of the curve in the outer circle of that work, especially from the avenue, when the eye is below it. We observe the same in the grand front view. TAB. V.

And now we are return’d to the sacred fabric, we will discourse a little upon these temples in general, and so conclude this chapter.

In Macrob. _Saturn._ I. 18. mention is made of a famous round temple in _Thrace_, where they celebrate most magnificent religious rites. It is upon the hill _Zilmissus_. The temple is open at top. I suppose like ours, not a little round hole like as in the _Pantheon_, nor is it a small round _sacellum_ like those little round temples at _Rome_ to _Romulus_, to _Vesta_, &c. It is not reasonable to think they should build a _Pantheon_ in _Thrace_, nor can I understand it otherwise, than that, it was like our _Stonehenge_, and in truth an ancient patriarchal structure of a primitive model. The Deity here worshipp’d was call’d _Sabazius_ says he, some make him _Jupiter_, some the sun, some _Bacchus_. These are the first perversions of the _Jehovah_ of the _Jews_. In my Judgment, the name _Sabazius_ is a corruption of the _Hebrew_ name of God צבאות _sabaoth_, _Deus exercituum_, a title that would well suit the warlike _Thracians_. In time Idolatry debased every thing. When they perform’d the religious rites of _Bacchus_, they cried _Evohe_, _Sabbai_, and call’d him _Evius_, _Evan_, _Sabazius_, &c. _Evohe_ is a corrupt manner of pronouncing יהוה _Jehovah_, and this sacred cry is truly no other than what frequently occurs in holy scripture. יהוה צבאות _Jehovah Sabaoth_. He is the king of glory, _Psalm_ xxiv. 10. But I have discoursed on this head in my _Paleographia Sacra_ N^o I. which will be continued.

_Diodorus Siculus_ in his Book II. mentions a very eminent temple of a round form, among the _Hyperboreans_, as he calls them, who inhabit an island situate in the ocean over-against _Gaul_, which is not less than _Sicily_. He gives an odd account from thence mix’d with fable, and seemingly some reports of _Stonehenge_ itself.

Mr. _Toland_ is confident, this hyperborean region is our _Schetland_ isles, whence _Abaris_ the Druid and hyperborean philosopher, famous in _Grecian_ story. Whilst I am writing this, _March_ 6. 1739–40. we had an account read before the _Royal Society_, much confirming Mr. _Toland_’s notion; speaking of the admirable temperature of the air there, not subject to such extremities, such sudden changes, as even in _Britain_ itself. There are such temples as ours there.

_Arnobius_ in VI. speaking of the origin of temples, “We don’t, says he, make temples to the Gods, as if we design’d to shelter them from the rain, the wind, the sun: but that we may therein present ourselves before them, and by our prayers, after a sort, speak to them as if present.” We may well affirm this of our temple, built after the manner of the patriarchal ones, tho’ probably an improvement, and somewhat more magnificent. Ours consists of two ovals and two circles. Many in our island, which I suppose older than _Stonehenge_, consist of one oval, or niche-like figure made of three stones only, (of which our _adytum_ is a more magnificent specimen) and a circle of rude stones fix’d in the ground; of which our work, crown’d with a circular cornish, is a more magnificent specimen. Sometime I meet with a niche without a circle, sometime a circle without a niche. We may well say, the circle is analogous to our chapels, churches, or cathedrals, according to their different magnitude; the niches correspond to our choirs, altars, and more sacred part of the sacred building, the more immediate place of the residence of the Deity. They are what now the _Turks_ and _Arabians_ call the _kebla_, deriv’d, as we said before, from the patriarchal practice, and particularly from the great patriarch _Abraham_. I doubt not but the altars which he and his posterity made, mention’d in scripture, were a stone upon the ground before three set in a niche-like figure, and the whole inclos’d in a circle of stones. At other times they set only one stone for a _kebla_, as sometime our ancestors did likewise. This practice was propagated generally among all ancient nations. Among many it was forgotten, or not practised, where they had but little religion at all. Among others, after idolatry had prevail’d with them, they thought all former manners of worship like their own, and mistook the stones which were _keblas_ or places of worship, for the objects of worship. Hence _Maximus_ of _Tyre_ says, the _Arabians_ worshipp’d he knew not what, for he saw only a great stone. Which, no doubt, was the _kebla_ toward which they directed their devotion, as they had learnt from _Abraham_, or the like patriarchal ancestors. So _Pausanias_ in _Achaicis_ says, the ancient _Greeks_ worshipp’d unhewn stones instead of statues; more particularly among the _Pharii_, near the statue of _Mercury_, were 30 square stones, which they worshipp’d. If our author could not make his narration agreeable to common sense, he might well mistake this ancient patriarchal temple, somewhat like ours of _Stonehenge_, for a circle of deities: he himself being a stranger to any other than image-worship. I shall handle this matter more largely hereafter, and now let us descend again from the temple to the _cursus_. Only I would close this chapter with this short reflection. This avenue is proof enough (if there needed any) that our work is a temple, not a monument, as some writers would have it. But it requires no formal confutation.

CHAP. IX.

_Of the_ Cursus. _Games exercis’d on holy festivals. The Druids understood geometry._

About half a mile north of _Stonehenge_, across the first valley, is the _cursus_ or _hippodrom_, which I discover’d _august_ 6. 1723. ’Tis a noble monument of antiquity: and illustrates very much the preceding account of _Stonehenge_. It was the universal custom, to celebrate games, feasts, exercises and sports, at their more publick and solemn meetings to sacrifice. Which was done quarterly and anniversarily, at certain stated seasons of the year. _Macrob. Satur._ I. says, “Upon holy days dedicated to the gods, there are sacrifices, feasts, games and festivals. For a sacred solemnity is, when sacrifices are offer’d to the gods, or holy feastings celebrated, or games perform’d to their honour, or when holy days are observ’d.” This great work is included between two ditches running east and west in a parallel, which are 350 foot asunder. When I mention 350 foot, I speak in the gross, and as we should set it down in an _English_ scale: but if we look into _Plate_ VI. where I have given a comparative view of our _English_ foot, and the most ancient cubit; at first sight we discern, this measure means 200 of the Druid cubits. This _cursus_ is a little above 10000 foot long: that is, it is made of 6000 Druid cubits in length. A most noble work, contriv’d to reach from the highest ground of two hills, extended the intermediate distance over a gentle valley: so that the whole _cursus_ lies conveniently under the eye of the most numerous quantity of spectators. To render this more convenient for sight, it is projected on the side of rising ground, chiefly looking southward toward _Stonehenge_. A delightful prospect from the temple, when this vast plain was crouded with chariots, horsemen and foot, attending these solemnities, with innumerable multitudes! This _cursus_, which is two miles long, has two entrances (as it were:) gaps being left in the two little ditches. And these gaps, which are opposite to each other, in the two ditches, are opposite to the strait part of _Stonehenge_ avenue.

I mention’d before, that at the bottom of the strait part of _Stonehenge_ avenue, in the valley, the avenue divides itself into two parts. One goes directly east toward _Radfin_, the other goes northwestward, and enters our _cursus_ nearly at the same distance west from the gaps or entrances before-mention’d: as those gaps are from the east end of the _hippodrom_. These gaps being at a convenient distance from that east end, may be thought to be in the nature of distance posts. It seems to me, that the turf of the adjacent ground on both sides, has been originally taken off, and laid on the whole length of this _cursus_, because it appears somewhat higher in level. Tho’ this was an incredible labour, yet a fine design for the purpose of running. The earth of the _vallum_ is likewise thrown inward.

The east end of the _cursus_ is compos’d of a huge body of earth, a bank or long barrow, thrown up nearly the whole breadth of the _cursus_. This seems to be the plain of session, for the judges of the prizes, and chief of the spectators. The west end of the _cursus_ is curv’d into an arch, like the end of the _Roman circus’s_. And there probably the chariots ran round, in order to turn again. And there is an obscure barrow or two, round which they return’d, as it were, a _meta_.

This is the finest piece of ground that can be imagin’d for the purpose of a horse-race. The whole is commanded by the eye of a spectator in any part. In the middle is a valley, and pretty steep at present: yet only so, as that a _British_ charioteer may have a good opportunity of showing that dexterity, spoken of by _Cæsar_. But the exquisite softness of the turf prevents any great damage by a fall. The ground of it hereabouts declines somewhat northward. The main part of this _hippodrom_ is upon a gentle ridge running east and west. This render’d the place cooler.

On the southern ridge, toward the west end of it, are many considerable barrows: but none towards the east end, for that would obstruct the view of _Stonehenge_. There are many barrows but of no considerable bulk, on the north-side, upon the extensive ascent, toward the great north long barrow. This magnificent work of the _cursus_ is drawn due east and west: except a small variation of 4 or 5 degrees southward from the east. If we measure along the bank, from the eastern _meta_, at 700 cubits exactly, we come over against the middle line of the strait part of the avenue to _Stonehenge_: 500 cubits further conducts us to the gaps or opposite entrances, I before mention’d; which we suppose as distance posts. The whole interval between the eastern _meta_ and these gaps, is 1200 cubits. At 1000 cubits more, we come to the place where the west wing of the avenue enters the southern ditch of the _cursus_. That west wing too, is just 1000 cubits long to its union, with the strait part of _Stonehenge_ avenue. Likewise the strait part of _Stonehenge_ avenue is just 1000 cubits long, as mention’d in its proper place. This west wing begins, in the bottom of that valley, which crosses the middle of the _cursus_ and sweeping along by the bottom of the hill, in a gentle curve, meets with the lower end of the strait part of _Stonehenge_ avenue, where the wing or avenue unites to it, with an equal angle. So that the whole work is laid out with great judgment and symmetry; and curiously adapted to the ground, which was well consider’d, before the plot was mark’d out, by the first surveyors. From the bottom of the valley crossing the middle of the _cursus_, to the western _meta_ is 3800 cubits more, making in the whole 6000 cubits. The north end of the eastern _meta_ does not extend so far as the northern bank of the _cursus_: I suppose, the reason is, that there might be liberty that way, to stop the horses, at the end of the course. Therefore they set out, on the south side of the _cursus_ and return’d by the north side. I observe the ditch and bank towards the eastern end of the _cursus_ much obscur’d, by the trampling of men and horses, frequenting the spectacles here: this being the most throng’d.

The _Cursus_ is directly north from _Stonehenge_: so exactly, that the meridian line of _Stonehenge_ passes precisely thro’ the middle of the _Cursus_. And when we stand in the grand entrance of _Stonehenge_ and observe the two extremities of the _Cursus_ the eastern and western _meta_, they are each exactly 60 degrees from the meridian line; on each hand: making a third part of the circle of the horizon. By which we see, the Druids well understood the geometry of a circle, and its measure of 360 parts.

Pausanias _in Beotic._ says, ‘among the _Thebans_, by the gate _Prætis_ is the _Gymnasium_ of _Jolaus_ and likewise the _stadium_, which is a bank of earth thrown up, such as that at _Olympia_ and of the _Laurii_. In the same place is the heroical monument of _Jolaus_. A little beyond, to the right is the _hippodrom_, and in it _Pindar_’s monument.’ The same author in _Arcad._ VIII. writes, ‘that before the walls of _Mantinea_, in a field, was a _stadium_ made for horse-races, in honour of _Antinous_. Not far from it was the temple of _Neptunus equestris_ and others.’ So that we see it was the manner of the ancient _Greeks_ thus to define their places for sports by banks of earth, and that near their temples.

After the _Romans_ had borrow’d the use of the _British_ chariots for travelling and the like, they us’d them too in the _Circensian_ games. Thus _Sidonius Apollinaris_ his poem upon it, _Lib._ XXII.

_Instant verberibus simul regentes, Jamque & pectora prona de covinno Extensi rapiuntur._——————————

Again,

_Tunc cœtus juvenum sed aulicorum Elæi simulachra torva Carapi Exercent, spatiantibus quadrigis. ————tandem murmura buccinæ strepentis Suspensas tubicen vocans quadrigas, Effundit celeres in arva currus. Hinc agger sonat, hinc Arar resultat, Hinc se se pedes atque eques reflectit, Stridentum & moderator essedorum._

Such, we may well imagine, was the scene of this place, in ancient days. And as the poet mentions the river _Arar_, I may take notice, in passing, that I have seen, several other places of sports and racings, which I take to have belong’d to the ancient _Britons_. As particularly those two great banks call’d _Rawdikes_ in the meadow near _Leicester_, which spectators look on as unaccountable. Another such work, I have seen in the meadow by _Dorchester_, the ancient _Roman_ city and episcopal see, in _Oxfordshire_. Both are by the side of rivers. Another upon the river _Lowther_ by _Perith_ in _Cumberland_.

These places by rivers, were more agreeable to the _Greek_ taste, as in a hotter country. Another like place of sports, was in the chalky valley just without the town of _Royston_, on the south side of it, by the _London_ road. The old _Roman_ road there, or _Hermen-street_ passes over one corner of the work, as being of later date. I may, perhaps, describe these more largely, another time. We read in _Homer_ and _Virgil_ that races were celebrated at funerals.

CHAP. X.

_Of the barrows, or sepulchral_ tumuli _about_ Stonehenge. _Generally set in groups, which are family burial places; and in sight of_ Stonehenge. _They are single burial places. How the body is posited. What has been found in digging into these barrows._

I come in the last place to speak of the barrows, observable in great numbers, round _Stonehenge_. We may very readily count fifty at a time, in sight, from the place; easily distinguishable: but especially in the evening, when the sloping rays of the sun shine on the ground beyond them. These barrows are the artificial ornaments of this vast and open plain. And it is no small entertainment for a curious person, to remark their beauties, their variety in form and magnitude, their situation. They are generally of a very elegant _campaniform_ shape, and done with great nicety. There is likewise a great variety in their shape, and turn, and in their diameters, in their manner of composition. In general, they are always upon elevated ground, and in sight of the temple of _Stonehenge_. For they all regard it. This shews, _they_ are but superficial inspectors of things, that fancy from hence, great battels on the plain; and that these are the tumultuary burials of the slain. Quite otherwise; they are assuredly, the single sepulchres of kings, and great personages, buried during a considerable space of time, and that in peace. There are many groups of them together, and as family burial places; the variety in them, seems to indicate some note of difference in the persons there interr’d, well known in those ages. Probably the priests and laity were someway distinguish’d; as well as different orders and stations in them. Most of the barrows have little ditches around, extremely well defin’d. In many is a circular ditch 60 cubits in diameter, with a very small _tumulus_ in the center. 60 or even 100 cubits is a very common diameter in the large barrows. Often, they are set in rows, and equidistant, so as to produce a regular and pretty appearance, and with some particular regard to the parts of the temple, the avenues, or the _cursus_. For instance, where the avenue begins at the first elevation, from _Radfin_ ford, advancing towards _Stonehenge_, seven large and flat old barrows are on the right hand of the avenue, towards the east end of the _cursus_, seven large barrows of a newer shape, are on the left hand: both these groups before spoken of, are plac’d in a similar manner, in regard to the avenue, and as wings or openings to it. Upon every range of hills, quite round _Stonehenge_, are successive groups of barrows, for some miles: and we may even observe, that great barrow by Lord _Pembroke_’s park at _Wilton_, which I call the tomb of _Carvilius_, is set within view of _Stonehenge_.