Part 7

Mr. _Thomas Hayward_, late owner of _Stonehenge_, dug about it, as he acquainted Lord _Winchelsea_ and myself. He found heads of oxen and other beasts bones, and nothing else. In 1724. when I was there, _Richard Hayns_ an old man of _Ambresbury_, whom I employed to dig for me in the barrows, found some little worn-out _Roman_ coins at _Stonehenge_, among the earth rooted up by the rabbets. He sold one of them for half a crown, to Mr. _Merril_ of _Golden Square_, who came thither whilst I was at the place. The year before, _Hayns_ was one of the workmen employ’d by Lord _Carlton_ to dig clay on _Harradon_ hill, east of _Ambresbury_, where they found many _Roman_ coins, which I saw. I suspect he pretended to find those at _Stonehenge_, only for sake of the reward. My friend the late Dr. _Harwood_ of _Doctors-Commons_ told me, he was once at _Stonehenge_ with such sort of _Roman_ coins in his pockets, and that one of his companions would have persuaded him, to throw some of them into the rabbit-holes: but the Doctor was more ingenuous. Nevertheless were never so many such coins found in _Stonehenge_, they would prove nothing more, than that the work was in being, when the _Romans_ were here; and which we are assured of already. I have a brass coin given me by _John Collins_ Esq; collector of the excise at _Stamford_. The heads of _Julius_ and _Augustus_ averse: the reverse a crocodile, palm-branch and garland. COL. NEM. the colony of _Nemausus_ in _France_. It was found upon _Salisbury_ plain; and might be lost there before the _Roman_ conquest of _Britain_ under _Claudius_, by people of _France_ coming hither; or in after-ages: no matter which.

_July 5 1723._ By Lord _Pembroke_’s direction, I dug on the inside of the altar about the middle: 4 foot along the edge of the stone, 6 foot forward toward the middle of the _adytum_. At a foot deep, we came to the solid chalk mix’d with flints, which had never been stir’d. The altar was exactly a cubit thick, 20 inches and ⅘; but broken in two or three pieces by the ponderous masses of the impost, and one upright stone of that _trilithon_ which stood at the upper end of the _adytum_, being fallen upon it. Hence appears the commodiousness of the foundation for this huge work. They dug holes in the solid chalk, which would of itself keep up the stones, as firm as if a wall was built round them. And no doubt but they ramm’d up the interstices with flints. But I had too much regard to the work, to dig any where near the stones. I took up an oxe’s tooth, above ground, without the _adytum_ on the right hand of the lowermost _trilithon_, northward. And this is all the account, of what has been found by digging at _Stonehenge_, which I can give.

CHAP. VII.

_Of the area round_ Stonehenge. _The bowing stones. The manner of sacrificing._

Of the court round the temple of _Stonehenge_, somewhat is said already, and of the two stones standing within the _vallum_: and of the two cavities remarkable, which have some correspondency therewith. I supposed, they were places, where two great vases of water stood, for the service of the temple, when they perform’d religious rites here. And I endeavour’d to illustrate it by a coin of the city _Heliopolis_. 60 cubits is the diameter of _Stonehenge_, 60 more reaches the inner edge of the circular ditch of the court. The ditch originally was near 30 cubits broad, but thro’ long tract of time, and the infinity of coaches, horses, _&c._ coming every day to see the place, ’tis levell’d very much. The intire diameter of the court, reaching to the outward verge of the ditch, is 4 times 60 cubits, which is about 410 foot. The five outer circles of the ditch are struck with a radius of 80, 90, 100, 110, 120 cubits.

Just upon the inner verge of the ditch, at the entrance from the avenue, lies a very large stone, at present flat on the ground. Mr. _Webb_, p. 57. pretends to give us the measure of it, confounding it with the other two before-mention’d to be within the _vallum_, to which they have no relation, no similarity in proportion. This is to favour his notion of three entrances of the _area_, dependant upon his hypothesis of equilateral triangles. He there tells us at the letter F, “the parallel stones on the inside of the trench were four foot broad and three foot thick but they lie so broken and ruin’d by time, that their proportion in height cannot be distinguish’d, much less exactly measur’d.” Thus he, but ’tis _invita Minervâ_; for all three stones, in all appearance, are as little alter’d from their first size, as any stones in the work. The two stones within the _vallum_ are very small stones, and ever were so. The one stands; the other leans a little, probably from some idle people digging about it. This stone at the entrance is a very great one, near as big as any one of the whole work, and seems too as little alter’d from its original form: only thrown down perhaps by the like foolish curiosity of digging near it. Instead of _Webb_’s four foot broad, it’s near seven: but to speak in the Druid measure, four cubits. It is at present above 20 foot long. If it stood originally, and a little leaning, it was one of those stones which the _Welsh_ call _crwm lechen_, or bowing-stones. However, Mr. _Webb_ must falsify the truth very much, in making this and the two former any thing alike in dimension, situation and use. But he does so, much more in the next, which is doubtless a _crwm leche_, still standing in its original posture and place in the avenue. ’Tis of much the like dimension as the other, tho’ not so shapely, and stands in like manner on the left hand, or south, of the middle line, of the length of the avenue. I surmise, the Druids consider’d the propriety of making the other a little more shapely than this, because within the _area_, and nearer the sacred fabric. There is the distance of 119 feet between them, to speak properly, 80 cubits. This interval Mr. _Webb_ contracts to about 43 foot, and supposes there was another stone to answer it on the right hand, as also another to answer that on the inside the ditch. And he supposes the like of those before-mention’d, both within and without the ditch, at his two fancy’d entrances. But of these, there is _nec vola nec vestigium_, and I dare say, never was. This stone has a hole in it, which is observable of like stones, set thus near our like temples: as we shall see in the progress of this work. The stone is of 24 foot in circumference, 16 high above ground, 9 broad, 6 thick. The use of it I can’t certainly tell; but I am inclin’d to think, that as part of the religious worship in old patriarchal times, consisted in a solemn adoration, or three silent bowings: the first bowing might be perform’d at this stone, just without the ditch, the second perhaps at the next stone, just within the ditch. Then they turn’d by that stone to the left hand, as the manner was, in a procession round the temple, both the priests and animals for sacrifice. At those two stones and water-vases, probably there were some washings, lustrations, or sprinklings with holy water, and other ceremonies, which I don’t pretend to ascertain. Then upon the entry into the temple, perhaps they made the third bow, as in presence of the Deity. After this, in the _court_, we may suppose the priests prepar’d the hecatombs and customary sacrifices. If that great stone just within the ditch, always lay, as it does now, flat on the ground, and _in situ_, (which I am not unwilling to believe) then, I apprehend, it was a table for dressing the victims. _Ezekiel_, in describing the temple of _Jerusalem_, speaks of such in the entry, xl. 30, 40, 41, 42, 43.

’Tis just to think, the ancient form of sacrificing here, like that of the _Romans_, _Greeks_ or elder nations, was pretty much the same as that among the _Jews_, and _that_ as in patriarchal times; and in short, no other than the original practice of mankind, since the first institution of sacrifices, at the fall. Therefore we shall subjoin it from _Homer_’s description, in _Iliad_ I. It quadrates extremely well, in all appearance, with the place and temple before us.

Straightway in haste, a chosen hecatomb To God, prepar’d, the well-built altar round, They place in order. Then their hands they wash, And take the salted meal. Aloud the priest, With hands uplifted, for the assembly prays. After the prayers, they wav’d the salted meal, And then retiring slay the animals. The skins being stript, they cut off both the thighs, And cover them with cawl; first offer’d crude. The priest then burns a part on plates,† thereon red wine, Libation pour’d. The ministring young men Stand by him, with their five-fold spits in hand. But when the thighs are burnt, out of the rest Entrails and flesh, harslets and stakes they make, Upon the spits transfixt. Then roasted well They set all forth. After the duty done; A feast they next prepare. Plenty of food Distributed around, chearful repast. Banquet being o’re, the youths huge goblets crown, And fill to all in cups. Then sacred hymns Sung to the Deity, conclude the day.

† In another place he adds,

With choice cloven bits of wood, Without leaves——————————————

These are most ancient rites, symbolical of the purity of the sacrifice of the _Messiah_, pointed at by, and deriv’d from the _Mosaic_ dispensation, where every thing of sacred purpose was to be perfect.

Thus much is sufficient to give the reader an idea of the ancient manner of sacrificing, such, no doubt as was practis’d at this very place entirely the _Hebrew_ rite. I suppose only the priests and chief personages came within the _area_, who made the procession with the sacrifices along the avenue. The multitude kept without, on foot or in their chariots.

CHAP. VIII.

_Of the Avenue to_ Stonehenge.

The Avenue of _Stonehenge_ was never observ’d by any who have wrote of it, tho’ a very elegant part of it, and very apparent. It answers, as we have said before now, to the principal line of the whole work, the northeast, where abouts the sun rises, when the days are longest. _Plutarch_ in the life of _Numa_ says, the ancients observ’d the rule of setting their temples, with the front to meet the rising sun. _Promachidas_ of _Heracleum_, and _Dionysius Thrax_ take notice of the same thing. And this was done in imitation of the _Mosaic_ tabernacle and _Solomon_’s temple: probably a patriarchal rite. This avenue extends itself, somewhat more than 1700 feet, in a strait line, down to the bottom of the valley, with a delicate descent. I observe the earth of the ditches is thrown inward, and seemingly some turf on both sides, thrown upon the avenue: to raise it a little above the level of the downs. The two ditches continue perfectly parallel to the bottom, 40 cubits asunder. About midway, there is a pretty depressure, natural, which diversifies it agreeably. _Stonehenge_, I said, is not on the highest part of the hill. I found, the reason, why the Druids set it just where it is; because it is precisely 1000 cubits from the bottom to the entrance of the _area_. When I began my inquiries into this noble work, I thought it terminated here, and Mr. _Roger Gale_ and myself measur’d it so far with a chain. Another year, I found it extended itself much farther. For at the bottom of the valley, it divides into two branches. The eastern branch goes a long way hence, directly east pointing to an ancient ford of the river _Avon_, called _Radfin_, and beyond that the visto of it bears directly to _Harradon_ hill beyond the river. The western branch, from this termination at the bottom of the hill 1000 cubits from the work at _Stonehenge_, as we said, goes off with a similar sweep at first; but then it does not throw itself into a strait line immediately, as the former, but continues curving along the bottom of the hill, till it meets, what I call, the _cursus_. This likewise is a new unobserv’d curiosity belonging to this work, and very much enlarges the idea we ought to entertain, of the magnificence and prodigious extent of the thing. The temple which we have been hitherto describing, considerable indeed as it really is, in itself; yet now appears as a small part of the whole. I shall therefore describe all these parts separately, to render them more intelligible: and then show their connection, and what relation they have, to one another, as well as I can. But it is not easy to enter at once, into the exceeding greatness of thought, which these people had, who founded it; bringing in all the adjacent country, the whole of nature hereabouts, to contribute its part to the work. Therefore I shall discourse of it backward and forward; first going from _Stonehenge_ to its termination, or more properly its beginning, and then return again. Explaining all the way, what is its present condition, and what, ’tis reasonable to suppose, was its original, when the Druids made their first design. This together with the several views I have drawn of it, will give us nearly as good a notion of the whole, as we can at this day expect, and perhaps preserve the memory of it hereafter, when the traces of this mighty work are obliterated with the plough, which it is to be fear’d, will be its fate. That instrument gaining ground too much, upon the ancient and innocent pastoritial life; hereabouts, and everywhere else in _England_: and by destructive inclosures beggars and depopulates the country.

At the bottom of the valley, and the end of the strait part of _Stonehenge_ avenue, 1000 cubits from _Stonehenge_, as we said, the eastern wing of the avenue turns off to the right, with a circular sweep, and then in a strait line proceeds eastward up the hill. It goes just between those two most conspicuous groups of barrows, crowning the ridge of that hill eastward of _Stonehenge_; between it and _Vespasian_’s camp, separated from them both by a deep valley on each side. These two groups of barrows are called generally the seven king’s graves, each. I call that most northerly, the old seven kings graves, for there are really 7, tho’ but 6 most apparent; they are all set at greater distance, all broader, flatter, and as it is most reasonable to suppose, older than the other. The other are set closer together, of a more elegantly turn’d figure, campaniform, and in all appearance, much later than the former. Therefore I call these, being southward and directly between _Stonehenge_ and the town of _Ambresbury_, the new seven kings barrows. Of the seven old, the most northerly one and probably the oldest, is exceeding flat and as it were, almost sunk into the earth with age; so that it is scarce visible at a distance. The avenue runs up to the top of the hill, just between them: and they make as it were wings to it, and I believe were design’d as such, when set there. When the avenue first turns off in the valley, it is much obscur’d by the wheels of carriages going over it, for a great way together: for this is the road to _Lavington_. Nevertheless a curious eye, without difficulty, sees all the traces of it sufficiently, till it is got higher up the easy ascent of the hill, and out of the common road. Then it is very apparent and consists of the two little ditches as before, (when coming directly from _Stonehenge_) exactly parallel, and still 40 cubits asunder. And it is made with the same degree of variation, or about 6 degrees southward from the true east point. So that it is evident again, the Druids intended it should go full east, but their compass by which they set it, varied so much at that time, according to my opinion of the matter. To perpetuate the mark of it as much as I can: I measured the distance of it from the southern ditch thereof, to the ditch of the nearest _i. e._ most northerly of the new 7 kings barrows, and when in the right line of those 7 barrows: it is 257 feet. I know not whether there was any design in it, but it is exactly 150 cubits. From the northern ditch of the avenue here, to the nearest of the old seven kings barrows, is 350 foot; which is exactly 200 cubits.

Whilst we are here upon the elevation of this hill, between these two groups of barrows, ’tis 2700 feet from the beginning of this wing of the avenue at the bottom of the valley, where it commences. It still continues in the very same direction eastward, till unfortunately broke off by the plow’d ground, 300 feet from hence. This plow’d ground continues for a mile together, as far as the river’s side at _Ambresbury_. So that ’tis impossible to trace it any farther. The first plow’d field, that southward, is Mr. _Hayward_’s; the other is of a different estate, call’d _Countess-farm_. And the plowing of these two go on at right angles one of another. That piece on the north side of the avenue, of the latter tenure, goes along the line of the avenue, is long and narrow, and has (as usual with greedy farmers) encroach’d upon and swallow’d up so much of the length of the avenue. And that amounts to 750 feet more in length, which must certainly be added to the avenue. This is all along the eastern declivity of the hill we are upon, _that_ of the twice seven kings graves, and reaches near the bottom of the valley, between it and the hill whereon stands _Vespasian_’s camp. Now reason and the judgment I have got in conversing with works of this kind, tell me, the founders would never begin this avenue at the bottom of a valley, but rather on a conspicuous height, which is visible from a great distance of country round. We must suppose the intent of the avenue was to direct the religious procession to the temple; and that at the beginning of it, they made fires early in the morning of that day, when they held their grand festivals, to give notice to all the adjacent country. Therefore when we cross this valley still eastward, with the former direction of the compass, and mount that next hill, whereon stands _Vespasian_’s camp: we find exactly such a place as we could wish, and extremely suitable to that purpose, For it commands a very extensive prospect both upwards and downwards of the river, and on the other side of it, for many miles; all about that part of the country where it is highly reasonable to think the old _Britons_ liv’d, who frequented this temple. This eminence is north of _Vespasian_’s camp, north-west from _Ambresbury_ church. Here is a very large scene of the country taken in. It has a fine gentle rise for half a mile and more, even quite from the ford at _Radfin_. You see the most delightful river _Avon_ flank’d with villages on both sides, from almost as far as new _Sarum_, and then to the head of it, 5 miles off. It was the custom of the Druids to give notice, by fires, of the quarterly days of sacrifice. Thus the Druids in _Ireland_ before christianity, us’d to kindle a fire call’d in their language _Tlachdgha_, on _All saints_ eve, to perform a general sacrifice: as Mr. _Llwyd_ mentions in his _Irish_ dictionary. Mr. _Toland_ speaks of others too. I observ’d there has been a bank across the bottom of the valley, for the more easy passage of the religious ceremony, and this much corroborates my conjecture of the avenue reaching hither.

_Plate_ XXIV. explains all that I have last said about this avenue, and shews its direction to _Haradon_ Hill, on the other side the river.

I am apt to believe from the conformity I have observ’d in these works, that there was a _sacellum_ or little temple here upon this hill, where the avenue began. We suppose this might easily be destroy’d when they began to plow here, being so near the town. I have found several of these kind of large stones, either travelling to _Stonehenge_, or from it. One as big as any at _Stonehenge_, lies about 3 miles off northward, in _Durington_ fields. Another in the water at _Milford_, another at _Fighelden_; they seem to have been carried back to make bridges, mildams or the like, in the river. There is another in the _London_ road, east from _Ambresbury_, about 2 mile from the town. Another in the water at _Bulford_. A stone stands leaning at _Preshute_ farm near the church, as big as those at _Stonehenge_. What confirms me in the conjecture that there was a _sacellum_ here originally, is, that an innumerable company of barrows on the opposite hill, on the other side of the river coming down _Haradon_, and in the line of the avenue seem to regard it; as is usual in these works. For those barrows are not in sight of _Stonehenge_ itself, by reason of the interposition of the hill whereon stand the double groups of seven king’s graves. And even those two groups seem to regard this little temple as well as the great one, curving that way. The distance from hence to _Stonehenge_ is 4000 cubits.

In order to have a just notion of this avenue, it is necessary to go to the neighbouring height of _Haradon_ hill, on the other side the river. The largest barrow there, which I call _Hara_’s and which probably gave name to the hill, is in the line of the avenue; the ford of _Radfin_ lying between, as we see in the last _Plate_. I stood upon this hill _May_ 11. 1724. during the total eclipse of the sun, of which I gave an account in my _Itinerarium_. Here is a most noble view of the work and country about _Stonehenge_. Whoever is upon the spot cannot fail of a great pleasure in it; especially if the sun be low, either after rising or before setting. For by that means the barrows, the only ornaments of these plains, become very visible, the ground beyond them being illuminated by the suns slaunting rays. You see as far as _Clay-hill_ beyond _Warminster_ 20 miles off. You see the spot of ground on the hill, whereon stands _Vespasian_’s camp, where I conjecture the avenue to _Stonehenge_ began, and where there was a _sacellum_, as we conceive. From hence to that spot a valley leads very commodiously to _Radfin_, where the original ford was.

This _Radfin-farm_ seems to retain its _Celtic_ name: meaning a ford or passage for chariots, the old way of carriage here used. _Rhedeg_ _currere_, _rhedegfain_ _cursitare_, in _Irish reathaim_. _Fin_ in the old _Irish_, is white. It regards the chalky road which went up from the ford. ’Tis a pretty place, seated in a flexure of the river, which from hence seems to bend its arms both ways, to embrace the beginning of the avenue. The place is very warm, shelter’d from all winds, and especially from the north. I am persuaded it was originally a seat of an Archdruid or Druid. See Mr. _Toland_ discoursing of the Druids houses, p. 111. The nuns of _Ambresbury_ too had a chapel there. The ford is now quite disus’d, because of the bridge by the town’s end; and the road of it is foreclos’d by hedgerows of pastures on both sides the lane, leading northwards from _Ambresbury_ to north _Wiltshire_. This road lying between _Radfin_ and the beginning of _Stonehenge_ avenue, is sweetly adorn’d with _viorna_. We are supposed now to stand on the _tumulus_ of _Hara_, an old _Irish_ royal name, and possibly the king who was coadjutor in founding _Stonehenge_, who lived, it’s likely, in the eastern part of _Wiltshire_: for which reason they directed the avenue this way.

_Et nunc servat honos sedem, tuus, ossaque nomen._