Part 2

Chapter 24,062 wordsPublic domain

Acetic acid.—Apply a few drops of a 10-percent solution of acetic acid with a medicine dropper or a glass rod and remove the excess by rinsing or sponging with water.

Argyrol

Argyrol stains must be treated while still fresh. Proceed as follows:

Pepsin.—Sponge with warm water to remove any argyrol that has not soaked into the cloth. Then sprinkle powdered pepsin over the dampened stain. Work it well into the cloth, let stand a half hour or longer, then sponge with water.

Iodine and sodium thiosulfate (“hypo”).—After the above treatment, put a few drops of tincture of iodine on the dampened stain with a glass rod. Let stand for 10 or 15 minutes; then sponge with a solution prepared by dissolving several crystals of sodium thiosulfate in ½ cup of water. Rinse well in water.

Blood

Blood stains will usually come out if sponged or washed in cold or lukewarm water first. Never use hot water; it sets the stain.

Cold or lukewarm water.—For stains on silk or wool, sponge with cold or lukewarm water. For washable material, soak the stains in cold water until they turn light brown in color; then wash in warm soapy water. If the stain is an old one and has dried, it may help to add 2 tablespoons of ammonia water to each gallon of water used for soaking. Strong salt water (about 2 cups of salt to 1 gallon water) is also good to loosen the stain.

Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—If the above treatment does not completely remove the stain, sponge with hydrogen peroxide. Or sponge with a mixture of 1 level teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint hydrogen peroxide. If the stain still shows, cover the dampened spot with powdered sodium perborate and let stand an hour. Rinse thoroughly. These bleaches will not harm the cloth, but before using test for colorfastness on a sample of cloth or on an inner seam of the garment. If the color fades, do not use the bleaches; just dampen the stain and spread in the sun to bleach.

Starch.—Use a starch paste to remove stains on thick materials, such as flannel and blankets, which cannot be soaked in water. Mix raw starch to a paste with cold water, apply the paste thickly to the stain, and brush it away when it dries. Repeat the treatment until the stain disappears.

Bluing

Soak fresh stains or rinse them in cold water. Or wash the stained article with plenty of warm soapy water, rubbing thoroughly.

Candle Wax, Colored

Scrape away as much wax as possible with a dull knife. Then treat as follows:

Blotting paper.—Place the stain between clean white blotters, cleansing tissues, or paper towels, and press with a warm iron, changing the blotters as they become soiled. Then sponge with carbon tetrachloride or other grease solvent.

Denatured alcohol.—If a color stain remains, sponge with liquid made up of 1 cup denatured alcohol and 2 cups water.

Candy

Launder in warm soapy water if the material is washable. Otherwise, sponge with clear warm water.

If dye or chocolate stains remain, follow instructions given under Dyes and Running Colors, page 14, or Chocolate and Cocoa, page 13.

Carbon Paper

Carbon-paper stains usually can be removed by washing in a heavy suds of soap and water. Sponge unwashable materials with a liquid of 1 cup alcohol and 2 cups water; then sponge with cold water.

Chewing Gum

Use one of the following methods:

Ice.—If the material will not water-spot, rub the gum stain with ice. Then scrape and rub the hardened gum out of the cloth. This method is particularly good for rugs and other heavy materials.

Egg white.—If the material is washable, soften the gum stain with egg white and then wash.

Carbon tetrachloride, kerosene, or turpentine.—Soak the stain in carbon tetrachloride, kerosene, or turpentine. If kerosene is used, wash in warm soapy water afterwards.

Chocolate and Cocoa

It may be necessary to try more than one method to remove chocolate and cocoa stains, since they usually contain other substances such as fat, milk, starch, and sugar. First scrape off as much of the stain as possible with a dull knife; then try one of the following:

Soap and warm water.—If the material is washable the regular laundering in warm soapy water will often remove this stain.

Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—Sponge stubborn stains with hydrogen peroxide. Or use a mixture of 1 level teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint hydrogen peroxide. If the stain still shows, cover the dampened spot with powdered sodium perborate and let stand an hour. Rinse thoroughly. Be sure to test for color change on a sample of the cloth or on the inside of hem or seam of the garment before using these bleaches on the stain.

Carbon tetrachloride and pepsin.—If the cloth is not washable sponge with carbon tetrachloride to dissolve the grease. Dry thoroughly, then sponge with warm water, and dust with pepsin powder. Work the powder into the cloth, let stand for 30 minutes or longer, then sponge with water.

Cod-liver Oil

Fresh cod-liver oil stains are almost colorless and are easy to remove. But old stains, especially if the material has been washed or ironed, are a light brown and are almost impossible to remove, even with bleaches. Treat fresh stains with either of the following:

Grease solvents.—Sponge or dip fresh cod-liver oil stains in carbon tetrachloride, benzene, Stoddard solvent, or gasoline. When the cod-liver oil has been removed, sponge with warm soapy water.

Glycerine.—For washable materials, pour either glycerine or one of the soapless shampoos on the fresh stain. Rub lightly between the hands to loosen the stain, rinse well in water, and then wash in warm soapsuds.

Coffee and Tea

Water and glycerine.—If the stains are on wool or silk, sponge with lukewarm water. Then apply glycerine and rub lightly between the hands. Let stand for half an hour and rinse thoroughly with water. If a grease spot from cream remains, sponge with carbon tetrachloride.

Boiling water.—Remove fresh stains from washable materials by pouring boiling water on the stain from a height of 2 or 3 feet, then wash in warm soapy water. If a trace of stain remains, dry in the sun or bleach with hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.

Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—Sponge with clear water and then with a solution of 1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint hydrogen peroxide. If the stain still shows, sprinkle powdered sodium perborate on the stain and let stand half an hour. Rinse well with water.

Dyes and Running Colors

As there are many different kinds of dyes, no one remover will successfully take out all dye stains. In fact, it may be impossible to remove some of these stains completely. Proceed as follows:

Water and sunlight.—If the material is washable, rinse the stains in cold or lukewarm water (soak for 10 to 12 hours if necessary), wash in heavy soapsuds, and then dry in the sun. Spots on wool or silk materials sometimes come out by soaking or washing in cold water.

Bleaches.—If a stain remains, try one of the following:

_Hydrosulfite._—Apply one of the hydrosulfites available at drug stores as a color remover. Follow directions on the package.

_Javelle water._—For stains on uncolored linen, cotton, or rayon, dip in Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6 for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water to remove stains from silk or wool.

_Hydrogen peroxide._—For stains on any white material, add a few drops of ammonia water to hydrogen peroxide. Soak the stains until they disappear and rinse thoroughly in water. One teaspoon sodium perborate added to 1 pint hydrogen peroxide makes a good bleach, but it must be made fresh, as it soon loses its strength.

Egg

Scrape away as much of the stain as possible with a blunt knife. Then sponge with cold water. Never use hot water—heat makes egg stains harder to remove.

Pepsin.—If cold water does not remove the stain completely, sprinkle pepsin powder over the spot. Work it in well and let stand for half an hour. Rinse well.

Grease solvents.—For nonwashable materials, sponge first with cold water. Let dry and then sponge with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or other grease solvent.

Fingernail Polish

Acetone or nail-polish removers.—On any material except acetate rayon or vinyon, sponge the stain with acetone or a commercial nail-polish remover.

Grease solvent and banana oil (amyl acetate).—Use this treatment on any material including acetate rayon and vinyon. First wet the stain well with carbon tetrachloride or gasoline; then apply a drop of banana oil to the stain. Brush lightly with a soft cloth, using an upward motion to pick up the dissolved polish. For heavy stains use dry-cleaning soap with the banana oil.

Bleaches.—To remove any color remaining after the polish itself has been dissolved, apply a bleach. Test the cloth for change in color first.

_Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate._—Sponge with clear water and then with a solution of 1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint hydrogen peroxide. If the stain still shows, sprinkle powdered sodium perborate on the stain and let stand half an hour. Rinse well with clear water.

_Hydrosulfite._—Apply one of the hydrosulfites available at drug stores as a color remover. Follow directions on the package.

Fish Slime

Soak or sponge the stain with a solution made of ½ cup salt and 1 cup vinegar in 2 quarts of water. Rinse well in water; then wash in warm soapsuds.

Flypaper, Sticky

Sponge the stain with carbon tetrachloride or benzene. If the material is washable, soak in kerosene and then wash in warm soapy water.

Fruits and Berries

Treat fruit and berry stains immediately, if possible; they are hard to remove after they dry. Boiling water (if it does not harm the cloth) or sometimes even warm water will remove most fruit stains. It is better not to use soap, as alkalies set some fruit and berry stains. Use the same methods for removing stains from cooked fruits and berries as from fresh.

Washing in warm soapy water sometimes removes stains from citrus fruits, such as grapefruit and lemon. But if the stain is old or the cloth has been pressed before washing, use one of the bleaches described below. If the acid in citrus fruit changes the color of the cloth, restore it with ammonia water or baking soda. (See Acids, p. 10.)

Cold water and glycerine.—For fresh peach, pear, cherry, and plum stains on cotton and linen and for any fruit stain on wool or silk materials (either white or colored), first sponge the stain well with cool water; then work glycerine or a soapless shampoo into the stain, rubbing lightly between the hands. Do not use soap, as soap sets the stain. Let stand several hours, then apply a few drops of vinegar or oxalic acid, allow to remain for a minute or two, then rinse thoroughly in water.

Boiling water.—Boiling water removes from cotton and linen most fruit stains except peach, pear, plum, and cherry. Never use boiling water on silk or wool. Stretch the stained part over a bowl, fasten it with string, and pour boiling water on it from a teakettle held at a height of 3 or 4 feet so that the water strikes the stain with force. Rubbing alternated with the boiling water is also helpful. If a stain remains, squeeze a little lemon juice on it and place in the sun to dry, or use one of the chemical bleaches.

Bleaches.—If a stain remains, try one of the following:

_Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate._—Sponge with hydrogen peroxide-sodium perborate mixture (1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide). Rinse thoroughly. If the stain persists, sprinkle powdered sodium perborate on the dampened area and let stand for half an hour. Finally rinse well. Always test for change of color on the inside of a hem or seam before using these bleaches. If the color fades, do not use them—just dampen the stain with water and spread in the sun to bleach.

_Hydrosulfite._—Hydrosulfites available at drug stores as dye removers are satisfactory for removing fruit stains from any white material. Follow directions on package.

_Javelle water._—For stains on uncolored linen or cotton material, dip in Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6 for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool.

Glue and Mucilage

Water.—If the material is washable, soak the spot in warm water, or if it is a stubborn stain you may have to boil it. If the stain is known to be casein glue, soak it in cold water.

Acetic acid.—For nonwashable materials, sponge the spot with water, then with acetic acid (10-percent solution) or white vinegar. Rinse well.

Grass and Other Fresh Garden Foliage

Hot water and soap.—If the material is washable, use hot water and soap, rubbing the stain well. If this does not completely remove the stain, use a bleach.

Bleaches.—Try one of the following:

_Hydrosulfite._—Hydrosulfites available at drug stores as dye removers are satisfactory in removing grass stains from any white materials. Follow directions on the package.

Benzene or denatured alcohol.—On materials that soap and water might injure, sponge the stains with benzene or alcohol. Test them first to be sure they do not change the color of the material. Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon or vinyon unless you dilute it—1 cup denatured alcohol with 2 cups water.

Grease and Oils

Fresh grease spots usually are the pure fat or oil. Old grease spots or stains from automobile, wheel, or machine greases usually contain also more or less dust, dirt, or fine bits of metal. (For road oil and axle grease, see p. 27.) First scrape or wipe off as much of the grease as possible; then treat the stain by one of the following methods:

Soap and water.—If the material is washable, wash in warm sudsy water. Be sure to use plenty of soap on the stained part and rub well between the hands. The soaplike washing agents (soapless shampoos, oils, and lathers) are good to soften grease stains.

Absorbents.—Use cornstarch, French chalk, or white talcum powder for fine materials; corn meal or salt for carpets, rugs, and other coarse materials. Dust the powder or salt over the spot, let stand until it absorbs the grease or oil, then brush off. Another method is to place the stained part between blotting papers and press lightly with a warm iron. Change the blotting paper as it becomes soiled. Or use cleansing tissues or paper towels in the same way. The advantage of using absorbents is that they do not wet the material or leave rings as water or grease solvents are apt to do.

Grease solvents.—Remove common grease and oils with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or benzene. Place a pad of clean cloth or a white blotter beneath the stain and sponge with a clean cloth, moistened with the grease solvent. Work from the wrong side of the material in order to push the dirt and grease out rather than to rub it into the material. Use light, brushing motions, work from the outside of the spot toward the center and spread or “feather out” the solvent into the cloth around the stain until there is no definite edge. Then pat dry with a clean, dry cloth.

If the grease spot contains dirt or fine bits of metal, first loosen the stain by rubbing a little lard, petroleum jelly, or dry-cleaning soap into it. Then sponge with the grease solvent or dip the stain into a small bowl of the solvent.

Another method is to make a paste by mixing cornstarch or talcum with carbon tetrachloride or other dry-cleaning fluid. Spread the paste over the spot; when dry brush it off. Repeat if necessary. The solvent does not spread and is less likely to form a ring if used in this way.

Ice Cream

Ice cream stains contain milk or cream, sugar, sometimes egg, and often coloring. If after trying the following methods, a fruit or chocolate stain remains, follow instructions under Fruits and Berries, page 15, or under Chocolate and Cocoa, page 13.

Cold or lukewarm water.—If the material is washable and the stain contains no highly colored fruit or chocolate, sponge with cold or lukewarm water; then wash in warm soapsuds.

Carbon tetrachloride.—For nonwashable materials, sponge with carbon tetrachloride to remove the greasy part of the stain. Let it dry; then sponge with cold water to remove any stains from the egg and sugar in the ice cream. If this does not remove the stain completely, follow with a pepsin treatment.

Pepsin.—First sponge the stain with cold water, then sprinkle pepsin on the dampened stain, and let it stand half an hour. Brush it off and rinse the spot well. For best results, be sure the material is free from soap or other alkali before applying the pepsin.

Ink

Because inks differ in composition, it is impossible to find removers that are equally effective for all types of ink spots. Each of the methods mentioned below is satisfactory with some type of ink. For most ink spots, it is necessary to try several methods, beginning always with the simplest and that least likely to harm the cloth.

India or drawing ink

Denatured alcohol, carbon tetrachloride, and benzene.—Place a pad of cloth or blotter under the stain and sponge with one of these solvents. Then rub glycerine (use glycerine only with alcohol) or a dry-cleaning soap into the stain and finally rinse out with the solvent. If this does not remove the stain, let the stain dry; then wet with water and rub in a synthetic detergent (nonsoap cleaner) to help soften the stain. Or use strong soapsuds to which a few drops of ammonia water have been added. Alcohol must not be used on acetate rayon or colored materials.

Printing ink

Use one of the following agents for removing printing-ink stains:

Lard or petroleum jelly.—Rub the stain with lard or petroleum jelly; work it into the cloth. If material is washable, wash with soap and water; otherwise sponge with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or other grease solvent.

Turpentine.—Soak the stain for a few minutes in turpentine and then sponge with carbon tetrachloride, alcohol, or other dry-cleaning fluid. Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon or colored materials.

Kerosene.—To remove printing from flour bags and other bags, soak in kerosene for several hours. Then wash thoroughly in soap and hot water and spread on the grass in the sun to dry.

Writing ink

In removing writing-ink stains it usually is necessary to try various methods. Always start with the simplest method and the one least likely to harm the cloth.

Absorbents.—If the stain is still wet, spread corn meal, salt, French chalk, cornstarch, or talcum powder on the stain to remove any excess ink and to keep it from spreading. Work the powder into the stain. Shake it off as it becomes soiled and repeat the process. When the dry absorbent fails to take up more ink, make the absorbent into a paste with water or with a mixture of 1 part water and 1 part alcohol and apply again. Let dry and brush off.

Glycerine and water or soap and water.—If the material is washable, pour either glycerine or one of the soapless shampoos on the fresh stain. Rub lightly between the hands, rinse, and apply glycerine again as long as any ink comes from the stain. Rinse with clear water. Washing with soap and warm water will remove some types of ink.

Bleaches.—If the above treatments do not remove the stain, try a bleach. But use bleaches sparingly on colored materials.

_Oxalic acid._—Soak the stain for a few seconds in a solution of oxalic acid (3 tablespoons of the crystals of the acid to a pint of water). Or sponge the stain well with cold water, then stretch the stain over a bowl of hot water, and apply crystals of oxalic acid directly to the stain. Rinse by dipping in the hot water and finally in water to which a few drops of ammonia water have been added. Do not use on weighted silk.

_Hydrosulfite._—Sponge with a hydrosulfite solution and rinse quickly.

Iodine

Soap and water.—If the material is washable, soap and water will often remove a fresh stain. Or moisten with water and place either in the sun, over a warm radiator, or hold in the steam from a boiling teakettle.

Denatured alcohol.—On materials that water would injure, sponge with alcohol. On acetate rayon and colored materials be sure to dilute the alcohol—1 cup denatured alcohol to 2 cups water.

Sodium thiosulfate (“hypo”).—Sponge the stain or dip in a solution of 1 tablespoon of the “hypo” to 1 pint of water. Rinse well in water.

Iron Rust

Use any of the methods given below to remove iron-rust stains from white materials. Test remover on sample of cloth before using on colored materials.

Lemon juice.—Spread the stain over a pan of boiling water and then squeeze lemon juice on it. After a few minutes rinse; then repeat the process. This method is rather slow, but does not harm delicate white cottons or linens. Another method is to sprinkle the stain with salt, squeeze lemon juice on it, and spread in the sun to dry. Add more lemon juice if the stain still shows. Rinse well.

Oxalic acid.—Spread the stained article over a bowl of hot water and apply a few drops of oxalic acid solution (3 tablespoons of the crystals to 1 pint of water). Or put the crystals of acid directly on the stain and moisten with hot water. Rinse in hot water, and repeat until the stain disappears. Do not use on weighted silk.

Cream of tartar.—Boil the stained article in a liquid made up of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar to 1 pint of water. Rinse thoroughly.

Hydrosulfite.—Hydrosulfites available at drug stores as color removers or dye-stripping agents also will remove rust stains. Follow directions given on the package. Do not use on weighted silks.

Linseed Oil

Sponge with carbon tetrachloride or benzene. Treat as for cod-liver oil stains.

Lipstick and Rouge

Petroleum jelly and carbon tetrachloride.—If water spots the cloth, work petroleum jelly or lard into the stain. Then either sponge with carbon tetrachloride or dip the stained part in a bowl of the solvent. If a trace of color remains, sponge with denatured alcohol. On acetate rayon and colored materials, dilute the alcohol—1 cup of denatured alcohol to 2 cups water.

Glycerine, soap, and water.—If the material is washable, first loosen the stain as above with glycerine or petroleum jelly. Then launder. If soap or other alkalies are applied before the stain is loosened, they are apt to set it.

Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—Sponge with sodium perborate-hydrogen peroxide mixture (1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide). Rinse thoroughly. If the stain persists, sprinkle powdered sodium perborate on the dampened area and let stand for half an hour. Finally rinse well. Be sure to test the cloth for colorfastness before using these bleaches.

Meat Juice or Gravy