CHAPTER III.

MADRID.

Streets and Street Population; Female Dress: the Mantilla; the Fan; Aspect of the Streets of Madrid at different hours; the Siesta; Shops; Good and Bad Smells; State of the Lower Orders; Analysis of the Population; Street Sketches; Sunday in Madrid; the Calle de Alcala; Convents; the Street of the Inquisition; Private Apartments in Madrid; the Prado and its Attractions; Ludicrous Incongruities; Spanish Women, and their Claims; the Fan and its Uses; Portraits; Inconvenient Exaction of Loyalty; the Philosophy of Good Walking; the Retiro; Castilian Skies; the Café Catalina and its Visitors; other Coffee Rooms, and Political Reflections; the Botanical Garden, strange Regulation on entering; the Theatres; Spanish Play Bills; Teatro del Principe; the Cazuela and Intrigue; Spanish Comedy; the Bolero; the Italian Company; Cultivation of Music in Madrid; the Guitar; Vocal Music; Spanish Music 65