CHAPTER XXXVI.

LAST SCENE OF THIS EVENTFUL HISTORY.

Farewell to the Crimea--Last glimpses--A collision--Rough weather--A strange coincidence--The Russian foundling--His history--A metamorphosis--The Sultan’s banquet--Sight-seeing at Constantinople--Last visit to the City of Palaces--“The Culinary wonder of all nations”--Holiday tour--The Author makes his bow.

On board ship all was bustle and confusion. As the vessel steamed slowly out, we passed the few remaining steamers, including the bold _Algiers_, Captain Codrington, which was smoking with might and main. We went ahead, digging our way through the mountainous waves, which appeared to have accumulated in the harbour purposely to say farewell, or dash our brains out against the bulwarks or the perpendicular rocks of the bay. Black, sulphurous, and reddish clouds were rolling from mountain to mountain, burying the peaks of each in their course, and giving the aspect of a universal deluge, by the union of earth to heaven. We could perceive nothing excepting now and then a glimpse of two white spots: one was the Sardinian funeral monument, dedicated to their defunct heroes; the other, the white marble Nightingale Cross, which, as I have before mentioned, had just been erected by that lady to the memory of departed heroes, and the deceased Sisters of Charity and Mercy. So rough a day had not visited us since that eventful one on which Sebastopol had fallen. It was getting dark, and a misty rain kept falling, which made any but joyful reminiscences of our final departure from the theatre of war and the arid soil of the Crimea. The sable veil of night soon fell over our colossal steamer, the _Argo_, as she pitched and rolled in the hollow of the sea, having on board three hundred horses--a rather awkward cargo,--besides having been only recently patched up from some serious damage she had received in consequence of a collision with a French man-of-war. It had made a large hole in her, and carried away her figure-head. She had been for some time in the greatest danger in consequence of this, and though not materially so on the night of our departure, the remembrance of the accident was disagreeable enough to make all uncomfortable and spoil our appetites. A few extras had been added to the bill of fare in anticipation of the visit of our Russian friends; but I beg to inform my readers that I and a few of my _compagnons de voyage_ saw no more of the banquet than did our much-disappointed guests on shore, who may probably think the invitation was a joke played off upon them by the captain, and that he was aware of the time of his departure.[29]

At about eleven, most of the passengers retired to their fully-inhabited cabin. The captain passed the night upon deck; so did I partly, as Morpheus often refuses to visit me when I am upon the mighty ocean, in either rough or smooth weather. Three times was the deck submerged by the heavy seas; washing the passengers from larboard to starboard, and _vice versâ_--a sort of gymnastic exercise neither pleasant to man nor beast. Several horses broke their lashings and fell during those heavy shocks. The next morning was not more pleasant, but the afternoon turned out fine. At about three everybody was on deck, cheerfully conversing, walking, reading, smoking, &c. Nothing, I believe, is so soon forgotten as rough weather at sea, especially when the sun favours one with a few brilliant smiles. The dinner-table was well attended, and everybody very chatty. I sat near the captain and General Garrett. The former (whose anxiety seemed to have entirely disappeared) said to me, “I am going to relate a curious incident respecting yourself, Monsieur, of which you are perhaps not aware, but you will call it to mind when I tell you.”

“What is it? I hope it is nothing likely to bring me into discredit, or to shock my modesty?”

“On the contrary, it is all in your favour.”

“Such being the case, pray proceed. What think you, General Garrett?” said I.

“By all means,” he replied.

“Do you remember,” the captain began, “on the morning of the 8th September, as you were coming back to your camp, meeting with two naval officers who were endeavouring to pass the lines in order to get to Cathcart’s Hill and have a sight of the storming of Sebastopol?”

“That I do; and what’s more extraordinary, I do not know their names: in fact, I could not make out who they were, nor where they came from.”

“These are the very points on which I am about to enlighten you. You rendered them an important service on that occasion by your hospitality, for which I can assure you they are even to this day very grateful.”

“They were very welcome; but who were they?”

“At the time the adventure occurred, they both belonged to this ship: one was our doctor, and the other the son of a member of the company, who intends, upon your arrival in England, to give you an invitation to spend a few days at his seat near Southampton.”

“I am much obliged; but pray, when you see them, say I am already highly repaid for anything I did, as it was entirely through them I had the high honour of dining with General Windham upon the day on which he immortalized himself as the hero of the Redan.”

“You don’t say so!” exclaimed the captain.

Perceiving his astonishment, I related the circumstances mentioned in a former chapter. Of course these were well known to General Garrett.

It was with regret I was leaving the Crimea without knowing the heroes of this simple, though to me singular, adventure. How strange it is that at last, and upon my way home, I should ascertain that which I had so often inquired about!

A few rounds of champagne to their health and prosperity terminated this singular affair.

The invalided _Argo_ had regained her perpendicular upon the smooth surface of the ocean, and stood as firm as St. Paul’s upon its foundations. In fact, the good vessel appeared quite motionless, and made our ocean saloon as lively as any upon _terra firma_. The night seemed to be jealous of the fineness of the day, and not a breath of wind disturbed its serenity. The unwieldy ship glided over the sea, which flashed as though it had been a lake of diamonds. The breeze was just strong enough to fill the few sails spread to catch it. Every one was upon deck, as busy as bees upon a hot summer’s day. The order was given to muster the soldiers and lower-deck passengers, and in a few minutes they were all upon the main-deck. Amongst them appeared a lad all in rags, barefooted, and with a black and a blue eye. His dirty, ragged jacket was covered with blood and mud. He stood cross-legged and leaning upon his elbow against the coping of the bulwarks, his right hand thrust in the hole where a pocket had no doubt once existed. The lad, in spite of his attire, looked as brisk and independent as a modern Diogenes or a Robert Macaire. To the questions put to him by the captain, he replied somewhat in the style of the Grecian philosopher to Alexander the Great. There was, however, this difference--those great men understood each other, while the captain’s English was entirely lost upon the ragged hero. After several attempts and failures on the part of the captain, a gentleman, Mr. Souter, who spoke the Russian language, interrogated him, and asked him how he got on board. His reply was, “With the baggage, to be sure.” He then, boldly and in a fine tone of voice, suiting the action to the word, told the following tale:--“I am an orphan and a Russian serf belonging to Prince Meshersky. My name is Daniel Maximovitch Chimachenka; and since my owner, the prince, went to the war, the serfs have been much ill-treated by the agent in charge. This was particularly the case with myself, as I was attached to the agent’s personal service. He beat me daily, and gave me scarcely anything to eat. One day, two English officers passed through the village, and I held their horses for them while they took some refreshment. When they came out, they gave me a shilling. Though it was nearly dark, I watched the road they went, and followed them at a distance. After walking some time, I lost sight of them, and slept in the wood till daybreak. Two days after, having travelled through forests and over mountains in order to avoid detection, I found myself at Balaklava. This was only just before the departure of the fleet. I was determined to follow those kind people the English, who had given me so much money for so little work. Being aware that you were all going away, I bethought myself of hiding on board one of your ships, thinking that when discovered you could not treat me worse than the prince’s agent had done. I made the attempt in two different vessels, but was discovered and put on shore again. This vessel being one of the last, I went on board assisting some Maltese sailors with the luggage, and amidst the bustle managed to hide away amongst the horses.” In this manner the youth got to Constantinople.

The following letter, published in the journal of that city, will inform my readers of the rest:--

Monsieur Soyer, now so well known in the East, has taken under his protection a Russian boy who was in the greatest destitution, having stowed himself away on board the steam-ship _Argo_ at Balaklava. He was only discovered when the muster of soldiers and deck-passengers was called. The poor lad was in rags and barefooted. He had received a terrible contusion on the head, and his black swollen eyes and blood-stained face rendered his appearance anything but prepossessing. Being cross-questioned by a passenger who understood Russian, he stated that he got on board under pretence of assisting the sailors with some luggage, and contrived to hide himself amongst the horses till the ship was at sea, fearing that he should be put on shore, as had already happened to him twice before. During the night, he came upon deck and fell asleep. About three in the morning, a violent hurricane came on, and a heavy sea broke over the bows, nearly washing the soldiers and himself overboard. It was at this juncture that he received the contusion, and became for some time senseless. He asked for nothing to eat during the passage, fearing discovery, but satisfied the cravings of hunger with orange-peel and pieces of broken biscuit, which the soldiers had thrown about the deck. He said that he was an orphan, twelve years old, and left his native village through the ill-treatment of his owner’s agent. Some English gentlemen, in passing through the village, gave him a piece of money for holding their horses; so he decided upon following such kind people, in the hope of obtaining employment and living amongst them.[30] He appears very intelligent, and is quite indignant at being taken for a Tartar. He is, he says, a true Russian. Instead of allowing him to be turned adrift in Constantinople, Monsieur Soyer claimed and took him under his protection, taking a certificate from the captain to that effect, in presence of General Garrett and his Staff, who were passengers on board the _Argo_. As he is now free, no doubt a prosperous future is in store for the poor Russian lad, through the kindness of Monsieur Soyer.--_Journal de Constantinople et Echo de l’Orient_, Thursday, 21st July, 1856.

While on shore at Constantinople, I sent this unsightly and dirty-looking urchin to a Turkish bath, and by this simple, “gentle,” and delightful Oriental process removed two or three coats of dirt from his skin. I had a suit of livery _à la Russe_ made for him, which greatly improved his appearance. When quite recovered from the effects of his bruises and black eye, he turned out to be a very smart, clean, and extremely intelligent lad. So grateful was he for my kindness, that he came every morning at six o’clock to fetch my clothes to brush, kissing my hands at the same time, whether awake or asleep, as a mark of his gratitude. I have him with me in London, and intend to educate him, and hope he will turn out a good man of business and useful to society. It is most probable that had he been left to himself in Constantinople, he would have become a great rascal or a thief; for he possesses enough intelligence to be either a clever, honest man, or an arrant rogue.

We were anchored in the Bosphorus, opposite the Barrack Hospital. It was about ten in the morning. Everybody had an extra wash upon the occasion, and all were dressed in their best. The weather was very warm and fine, and all appeared gay and merry. General Garrett being anxious to see the wonders of the Mahomedan city, I offered, as I was now pretty well acquainted with its _chefs-d’œuvre_, to be his _cicerone_, which offer he immediately accepted. We started, accompanied by Colonel Hughes and Major Dallas. After paying our respects to Admiral Grey at the Admiralty, we hired two caiques and repaired to the ancient quarter of Stamboul. There we took horses, and for six hours ascended and descended the intolerable muddy and badly-paved streets of the real Constantinople, where are to be seen so many Mussulman works of art--viz.: St. Sophia, the Bazaar, Seraglio Palace, and Hippodrome, &c. &c. &c., with which the general and suite were much delighted. Our intention was to dine at Messirie’s Hotel, and we had just arrived there, when we were informed that the Sultan that day intended to give a grand dinner in honour of Generals Pelissier and Codrington. Captain Hall, who brought the news, requested General Garrett to pay an immediate visit to Lord Redcliffe, adding, that no doubt the ambassador would wish him to be present. General Garrett replied--“It would be utterly impossible for me to be present at the ceremony, inasmuch as I cannot get my uniform, which is at the bottom of the hold of the _Argo_. I will, however, pay my respects to Lord Stratford.”

We immediately started for that purpose. The general remained some time with our ambassador, and upon coming out informed us of the kind reception and invitation he had received to be present at the grand Dolma Batchi Palace banquet, saying he must manage to go somehow. The only difficulty was to get his own uniform, or any other that would fit him, for the occasion. I merely left my card at the Embassy, intending to pay my respects to Lord Stratford some other day.

This banquet had been postponed for several days, on account of the non-arrival of Sir W. Codrington from Balaklava. The dinner was at last decided to take place on the 18th of July, 1856, at seven o’clock. The English general had not arrived, but was hourly expected. About three P.M. his ship appeared in sight, and at five entered the Bosphorus. All on board who were invited were ready dressed; so they only had to disembark at the splendid marble terrace which forms the landing-place of the Sultan’s new palace of Dolma Batchi, where numerous attendants were waiting to receive them. But, as usual, “Man proposes, and God disposes.” The severe gale we encountered on leaving Balaklava, far from sparing the great _Algiers_, had delayed her more than it did our good ship. While passing in front of Therapia, her progress was again arrested by one of the most furious hurricanes ever known in the Bosphorus.

The illustrious guests had arrived minus the Commander-in-chief, who was expected every minute. They were sitting in the grand reception-room. The dinner-hour arrived, and the doors of the magnificent Mahomedan hall were thrown open to the assembled guests. They were amazed at the splendour and richness of the architecture of that cathedral-like throne-room, which is a perfect copy of St. Sophia on a very splendid scale, the dome being only fourteen feet less in height than that of St. Sophia. The appearance of the table, placed in the centre, though very large and well garnished with elegant table ornaments, fruits, flowers, and a most _recherché_ dessert, left, as far as the dinner goes, much to desire. The mixture of French and Turkish cookery, of which I much approve, would have been preferable to all French, so difficult of perfect execution, particularly at Constantinople. As a whole, the _coup-d’œil_ was perfectly pyramidal and magical. The guests were seated according to rank and precedence, and each had his name and number on his plate, which plan prevented any confusion. The soup, as well as several _hors-d’œuvres_ and other dishes, had been handed round, when a tremendous hurricane shook the frame of the stupendous edifice, extinguished the lights in the orchestra, and made the colossal chandelier (perhaps the largest in the world) swing to and fro until fears were entertained of its falling. For a short time we were uncertain whether it was a hurricane or an earthquake; and though the festive board was encircled by old invincibles whom the cannon of Sebastopol had never unnerved for a minute, it must be confessed that the fear of an earthquake produced an ominous silence.

In a short time the music recommenced, and every one was himself again. The busy traffic of a large banquet had resumed its regular course; the guests had forgotten this vexatious event, and were conversing cheerfully. When the dinner had been removed, and the dessert was placed upon the table, the band played the “Sultan’s Grand March,” and his Sublime Majesty entered in all his Oriental pomp, followed by the dignitaries of the empire. This pageant was indeed worthy of the antique style of Oriental grandeur. Still, it is to be regretted that it had lost much of its magnificence from having been simplified and modernized. After this gracious mark of cordial union between the Mahomedan monarch and his Allied guests, which has been so well and elegantly described by the public press, the Sultan retired; and thus ended this sumptuous entertainment, which will ever hold a distinguished place in the gastronomic annals of nations. It was at least the first, and probably will prove the last, at which the magnates of three great nations met together beneath the roof of the great Pacha’s palace to partake of Mahomedan hospitality _à la Française_, which in my opinion ought to have been Anglo-Franko, but at all events half Turko.

The only thing to be regretted was the untoward absence of Sir W. Codrington, which happened as follows:--The _Algiers_ started a few hours after the _Argo_; but being considerably heavier than that vessel--being a man of war--and owing to the bad weather and foul winds, she arrived ten hours after us, instead of four or six, as had been expected. In spite of this delay, she would have arrived in time, but for the extraordinary hurricane which came on as she entered the Bosphorus. Every gentleman invited was dressed and ready to land upon arriving at Dolma Batchi Stairs. It was all to no purpose; for on coming before Therapia, the safety of the ship compelled the captain to order the anchors to be let go; and as no caiques could venture out, it was impossible to land. My chief reason for mentioning this fact is because it was reported in Constantinople and Pera that the French and English commanders of the Allied armies disagreed politically, and would not meet. Through my friendly influence with important persons in Constantinople and Pera, I caused this report to be contradicted by the press, as it might have left an evil impression upon the public mind.

The _Argo_ was to sail about four P.M. the next day. At two I went on board to claim my Russian _protégé_, and found the boy, who was aware of my being in Constantinople, and as the steamer was about to sail, had lost all hope of being rescued by me. In expectation of being landed at Constantinople and left to the mercy of the world, he was seated on the poop of the ship, anxiously looking out with the same anxiety as Sister Anne from the top of the tower, in the tale of _Bluebeard_, to see if any one was coming. At length he perceived a caique with two caidjees approaching the ship _Argo_; in it was seated a rather stout gentleman, dressed in the Oriental style, as he afterwards related, with a large white round hat, encircled with a turban of white and red gauze, and wearing a bournous. “It can only be my new master,” exclaimed the boy to those around--or at all events he made them comprehend as much. Nothing could exceed the boy’s joy when I set foot upon deck; but, as I was not aware of his anxiety, I took but little notice of him, as I had many persons to see in a short space of time. Observing this, the poor lad began to cry. Had he been retaken, he would have been sent to the mines for fifteen years, and afterwards as a soldier for life. I requested the captain to draw up a statement to the effect that the boy had run away of his own accord, and begged of General Garrett to be present as a witness; and he was accordingly transmitted to me as a free boy from the time of his destitution.

The following is a copy of the statement:--

_Steam-ship “Argo,” Constantinople, 16th July, 1856._

I hereby certify that a Russian boy, about twelve or fifteen years of ago, was found on board this ship after leaving the Crimea. He states that he came on board for the purpose of getting employment. His name, he says, is Daniel, and that he was a serf of Prince Meshersky’s. Monsieur Soyer, a passenger on board, now takes him into his service, to prevent his starving.

H. B. BENSON, _Commander_.

N.B.--The boy’s name is Daniel Maximovitch Chimachenka. He says he is an orphan--has been very badly treated by his master’s steward--and begged of Monsieur Soyer to grant him protection, and is very willing to go with him wheresoever he pleases rather than return to his former master. As he was quite destitute on arriving at Constantinople, Monsieur Soyer is kind enough to take him under his protection.

I hereby certify that the above is quite correct, having interrogated the boy in his own language (Russian).

P. POUTEAU, _Kt. S. A._

I then bade a cordial farewell to all my _compagnons de voyage_, who were very anxious to have my company to London; but I had made up my mind to take six months’ holiday, and travel wherever my fancy might lead me, especially to my native city of Meaux, which I had not seen for twenty-six long years. I also wished to write this work in peace, having lost my notes. I informed them that I could not have the pleasure of accompanying them, as I meant to take a Continental tour, but hoped to meet them in London upon my return, which would probably be in the beginning of the then ensuing spring.

Wishing to visit at my leisure the civil and military institutions of this interesting city of Constantine, and, above all, to become well acquainted with the system of cookery, in which I had already recognised a deal of merit and originality, I determined to remain some weeks at Constantinople, as well as to offer to his Sublime Majesty the Sultan, through the kind intercession of Lord de Redcliffe, to whom I had paid my humble duty, a complete set of my various culinary works, as well as my magic and model stoves. I established myself at the hotel, and, accompanied by a friend, and my Russian boy dressed _à la Cosaque_, proceeded to visit on horseback all the curiosities of the Mahomedan city.

As I have already observed, though I frequently wished to inspect minutely the great metropolis of Constantine, my incessant duties never allowed me time for this: I therefore now devoted my leisure time to seeing Constantinople. I had fixed three weeks as the space requisite to visit in detail the wonders of that city. To do this, I engaged a dragoman of some intelligence, and requested him to conduct me to every place worthy of being seen, at the same time acquainting him that three weeks would be the utmost stay I should make in Constantinople.

Having obtained a firman, or _passe-partout_, we were to be seen flying from palace to palace, mosque to mosque, bazaar to bazaar, kiosque to kiosque, hospital to hospital, cemetery to cemetery, prison to prison; from turning to howling dervishes, and from the Sweet Waters of Europe to those of Asia, and last, not least, to the Sultan’s kitchen, which to me was the only object of paramount interest.

Almost every one attached to the army had left the banks of the Bosphorus and returned to England. Only now and then did one meet a British uniform in Pera. These were the officers of the Commissariat or the Turkish Contingent. Amongst the former were Commissaries Smith, Adams, Osborn, &c.

The post-office and hospitals were given up: Therapia and Buyukderé alone could boast of possessing the tail of the British army and navy. General Storks was still on a visit to Lord Stratford de Redcliffe; Sir Edmund Lyons was on board his splendid man-of-war, the _Royal Albert_, in the Bosphorus; Admiral Grey had left, and only a few acting naval men remained at the Admiralty.

I afterwards addressed the following letter which appeared in the _Times_:--

M. SOYER AT CONSTANTINOPLE.

_To the Editor of the Times._

SIR,--In reply to no end of inquiries from persons meeting me in the streets of Pera, Bujukderé, Therapia, the Isles des Princes, &c., as to what I am doing in Turkey now the whole of the army has gone, and as every one here seems so anxious, probably others may feel interested, it has struck me, sir, to inform you personally why I remain here. In the first place, Constantinople and its vicinity are far from being destitute of vital interest, and those who have only seen its beauty from the Bosphorus, and then at first sight condemned the interior of this gigantic city of Constantine, have seen nothing, and are utterly incompetent to speak of it, much less to write upon the curiosities, manners, customs, and way of living, of this singular and almost unknown people, though lodged nearly in the centre of Europe. Thanks now to my last visit to Constantinople, which time nor duty did not admit of before, I now know it and its neighbourhood as well as London, and much better than Paris. I am pretty well acquainted with Turkish institutions, as well as manners and habits, which indeed deviate so much from our fashions that they cannot prove uninteresting to relate, if not to follow. Though so many authors have written upon Turkey, they have yet left me several virgin pages, and those pages are upon the national cookery of the Moslem people.

They have many dishes which are indeed worthy of the table of the greatest epicure, and I shall not consider my Oriental mission terminated to my satisfaction till I see in the bills of fare of France and England their purée de volaille au ris, tomates, et concombres, and purée de Bahmia aromatisée à la crême, by the side of our potages à la Reine, Tortue, Jullienne, and Mulligatawny; near our whitebait, red mullets, turbot, and salmon, their fried sardines, bar fish, gurnet, sturgeon, red mullets aux herbes, oyster pilaff, mackerel, salad, &c.; and with our roast beef, saddle-back of mutton, and haunch of venison, their sheep, lamb, or kid roasted whole, and the monster and delicious kebab; by our entrées of suprème de volaille, salmis, and vol-aux-vents, their doulmas kioftee, sis kebabs, haharram bouton, pilaff au cailles, &c.; with our vegetables, their Bahmia, fried leeks and celery, Partligan bastici, and sakath kabac bastici; with our macédoines, jellies, charlottes, &c., their lokounds, moukahalibi, Baclava gyneristi, ekmekataive. Their coffee, iced milk, and sherbet--in fact, all their principal dishes might, with the best advantage, be adopted and Frenchified and Anglicised. Not so their method of serving, in which they mix sweet and savoury dishes throughout the repast; and less likely still their method of eating with their fingers, though, after several trials, I must admit that it has some peculiar advantages; their sauces being of a thinnish nature, require to be absorbed with a piece of bread in order to partake of them, which could not be performed equally well with a knife or fork. Their custom of serving only one hot dish at a time is not new to us, we having borrowed it from the Russians, who probably took it from the Turks. No nation as yet has been able to boast of having introduced a single innovation in the way of living to this singularly incommunicative race, the cause of which I can only attribute to the immense distance placed between the relative social position of the two sexes: for while in Europe the “_beau sexe_” forms the soul of society and sociability, in Turkey they are kept in entire seclusion, and almost without any kind of education. My stay here has not only produced me the high honour of an interview with the Sultan, but also the advantage of becoming acquainted with one of the most useful and principal officers of his Sublime Majesty’s household, called the Hachji Bachji, or general-in-chief of the culinary department of his Sublime Majesty the Padischah, and he speaks with pride of having held that office five years with the late Sultan and Padischah Mahmoud, and has now retained it seventeen years with his present Sublime Majesty. Independent of the private kitchen of the Sultan, he has under his command in the various palaces about six hundred men cooks, and had in the time of Sultan Mahmoud upwards of one thousand. Having expressed a wish to become acquainted with some of the principal Turkish dishes, and the way in which the dinner was served, he not only gave me the required information, but invited me to a dinner, “_à la Turc_,” at the new palace of Dolma Batchi. We were only four guests, including himself; above seventy small dishes formed a luxurious bill of fare, which, after the Turkish fashion, were partaken of quickly, as the Moslems only taste a mouthful of each dish which may take their fancy. He then informed me that the repast we had partaken of was the _fac-simile_ of the dinner daily served up to his Majesty the Padischah, who always takes his meals alone, and as no bill of fare is made, every dish in the Turkish cookery code must be prepared daily throughout the year, and only varies in quantity according to the abundance or scarcity of the provisions to be obtained in the various seasons, so that his Sublime Majesty may find everything he may desire within his Imperial call. Further details upon this subject I shall give when I publish my other work, which will be entitled “The Culinary Wonder of all Nations.”

The Armenian cookery turns very much upon the Turkish style, while the Greek has a type of its own, which, I regret to say, is far from meeting with my approbation, though in high Greek families I have partaken of most excellent dinners; but the Turkish dishes were always the most satisfactory, the common cookery of the Greeks being sloppy and greasy, while, _per contra_, the Turk has studied the art of preserving the essence of all the provisions employed, which method will at all times produce a palatable as well as a nutritive food. Prior to my departure, which will be in a few days, I shall pay a visit to Scutari, to contrast the present state of that busy spot with its now, as I hear, totally deserted aspect. My remarks upon this subject I shall do myself the pleasure of sending in a future letter, in hopes that they may prove interesting to the thousands who have visited that celebrated place on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus.

With the highest consideration, I have the honour to remain,

Sir, your obedient servant, _Pera, Constantinople, Hotel d’Angleterre_, A. SOYER.

_Sept. 8, 1856._

This visit was more laborious than most persons may imagine, but the idea of beginning a new and agreeable campaign, after having terminated a long, dreary, and perilous one, was very pleasing. I was free as regarded my actions, and my health was partly restored. Shortly after my arrival at Scutari, my governmental mission as well as hospital duties ceased, these establishments being closed. I therefore settled everything with the Purveyor-in-chief, Mr. J. S. Robertson, General Storks, Miss Nightingale, and Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, who all honoured me with documents expressive of their high approbation of my services. Prior to my final departure, I sent the full report of my proceedings and labours at Scutari, as well as in the camp, to Lord Stratford de Redcliffe.

The following is his Excellency’s reply:--

THERAPIA, _August 2nd, 1856_.

DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I return you the papers you were good enough to send for my perusal. The honourable testimonials you have obtained have been well earned.

I shall have much pleasure in asking the Sultan’s permission as to your sending him the articles you mention.

Sincerely yours, STRATFORD DE REDCLIFFE.

A Monsieur Monsieur Soyer.

The day after the receipt of the above letter from his Excellency I was summoned by Mr. Etienne Pizanni, the first dragoman of the Embassy, who left a message at the Hôtel d’Angleterre to the effect that the following morning I was to be at Topané Cannon Foundry landing-place, with the various articles I intended to offer for the acceptance of his Sublime Majesty. At ten o’clock precisely I arrived. The caique of the Embassy was already waiting. A few minutes after we had crossed the short and chopping waves, _aux collerettes d’argent_, or bright silver hue, which, with the morning breeze, take birth in that fairy lake, the cradle of romance and beauty, as night approaches. Shortly after we were safely landed on the monster marble quay, the private landing-place of the Sultan, which proudly unites the Bosphorus with the gigantic palace of Dolma Batchi; from here we were inducted to the Grand Chamberlain’s kiosque, where coffee-cups and chiboques of great value, being ornamented with gold, pearls, emeralds, and diamonds, were filled by slaves and handed to us, and partaken of with great gusto.

In a few minutes Prince Galamaki was shown into the apartment. He had come for the purpose of taking leave of his Sublime master prior to leaving Turkey for his post as ambassador to the Court of Vienna; and having myself had the honour of knowing this distinguished diplomatist when he was ambassador to the Court of St. James’s, he at once recognised me, and the conversation being opened by Mr. Pizanni, we had a most interesting dialogue on semi-diplomatic matters, embracing a period of fifteen years.

Two hours had now elapsed. Chibouques and coffee had been handed round many times, when the Prince remarked that his Majesty was later than usual. Shortly after, an officer of the palace entered, and desired Mr. Pizanni and myself to accompany him to the Sultan’s private palace, a distance of several hundred yards. Crossing a floral carpet of sweet perfume, interwoven with plots of choice exotic plants and flowers, marble fountains, vases, baths, &c., we ascended a staircase, and were introduced to a simply, but costly-furnished apartment, when Mr. Pizanni remarked that we had already made a near approach to the person of his Majesty. Hardly had he uttered the remark, when a eunuch entered, and requested us to follow him. We passed through several long dark corridors, richly tapestried, and here and there interposed with coloured glass, which threw a golden-yellow light, reflecting a peculiar hue on the eunuchs who were here and there stationed, keeping guard. Silence reigned supreme. We soon reached a very spacious area. A screen was suddenly removed, when, standing on the summit of a grand crystal staircase, most brilliantly illuminated with resplendent vermilion glass shades, stood erect a figure, which, at first sight, I took for an idol or statue belonging to this enchanting place. Mr. Pizanni advanced, with great veneration, towards it, bidding me follow, over a highly-polished glassy-looking floor, which I did not without fear of slipping--when, to my astonishment, I found myself standing before Abdul Medjid Khan, the Padischah, who, though simply attired in a rich robe de chambre and a plain fez,--which I believe is the oriental dress of reception,--the sublimity of the monarch’s countenance will never be effaced from my memory. Mr. Pizanni, addressing his Majesty in the Turkish language, introduced me, when, through that gentleman, I ascertained that his Majesty wished me well, and that his heart was well disposed towards me (meaning a great deal in a few words). His Majesty was then informed of the purport of my mission, commencing at the hospitals of the Bosphorus, then in the Crimea. His approbation was expressed by the slow movement of the head from left to right, the body remaining motionless. Then took place the offering of my various productions, culinary and literary, eight in number, which lay on a large, richly-ornamented piece of furniture, in the centre of this large cupola. The simplicity of the field-stove obtained his Majesty’s high approbation. “I well understand them,” said he, talking all the time to Mr. Pizanni, who translated word for word to me. After having complimented me very highly on the services of my undertaking, “I am much pleased,” were the last words his Majesty uttered. We then retreated backwards. Though the conversation had been varied and animated, not a movement on the part of his Majesty did I perceive all the twenty minutes we were conversing. We left the idol as we found it.[31]

* * * * *

The time fixed for my stay in the far-famed city of Constantinople was fast drawing to a close; a short visit to the Isles des Princes, that focus of nightly revels, was to put a final seal to my Mahometan review. I went there on a Sunday, and had the pleasure of meeting, amongst thousands, with Admiral Lyons and his maritime staff. Here monks, caidjees, donkeys, green fruit, cakes, fireworks, and gambling-tables thrive in a most flourishing manner. As the night approached, the Admiral left to join his ship, escorted down the silvery Bosphorus by hundreds of lighted torches, and shouts from thousands of visitors. The next day I was on board the _Albert_, anchored before Bujukdéré, and bade adieu to the gallant admiral. I then paid my farewell respects to his Excellency Lord de Redcliffe and his family; the day was now fixed for my departure, everything was packed up, and my Russian boy, Daniel Maximovitch Chimachenka, had, with the greatest intelligence and delight, corded my last box, and seemed as if he was already breathing the air of freedom. For some time previous, a monster gipsy party had been in embryo; illness had prevented this rural festivity coming off, but on my return to Pera, it was luckily fixed for the following day--the illustrious Mr. Messirie being the giver of this monster pic-nic. At five the next morning every one was attired in their best summer array, and streams of people were pouring from all directions to the Galata Pier. A steamer, gaily trimmed, was waiting for the guests. When all were on board, the paddles commenced their revolutions; and, as we floated along the limpid bay of the Golden Horn, Greek music kept time with our race. Soon we arrived at Therapia, and landed on the pier of the Hôtel d’Angleterre, where light refreshments were provided for the innumerable guests. About forty caiques with double caidjees were waiting near the shore, while two caiques of large dimensions were filled with instrumental musicians. We then all started, crossing the Bosphorus towards Ibraham Pasha’s marble palace, and to the melodious sound of the music, we landed in one of the many pretty valleys of which the Bosphorus alone can boast; it was called the Sultana, near the Sultan’s valley. Such a culinary encampment I never before beheld; four men-cooks were busily engaged in dishing up sixteen hot _entrées_, fowls were being grilled, quails and dotrelles were being roasted, kaboub frizzling, and all kinds of fish were submitted to the science of cookery; four sheep and two lambs were roasted whole in the adjacent forest, while a table for about a hundred and fifty people was laid out under the shadowy folds of a huge tree, luxuriously situated at the base of a delightful Turkish fountain; sherbet, ices, jam, and cakes were also freely partaken of. At twelve, to the minute, the open-air banquet was placed upon the table, and soon the warning note of the tum-tum assembled all around it. Oriental fruit and flowers profusely ornamented the festive board, while Smyrna melons of large dimensions perfumed the air. The banquet lasted two hours, after which dancing and oriental games were in full swing in all directions, including the Greek, Armenian, and Albany dances, accompanied by the twang of music, to the great delight of the participators, as well as the admiration of several hundred Turkish spectators, both men and women, dressed in their best, this being their Sabbath. It gave this scene a purely oriental aspect, which cannot be beheld anywhere but under the heavenly paradise of Mahomet. As the evening approached, more animated became the party, and no finale could have wound up the day’s fun better than the dance of all creeds, each dancer holding a lighted torch, which flickered about the forest like so many will-o’-the-wisps. Turkish fireworks terminated this day of romance, which ended to the sorrow of all. Iron pots elevated on poles, along the shore, filled with wood and vitriol, were then fired, throwing a blaze of light on the caidjees, who were gaily fluttering round the shore on the agitated ripples of the Bosphorus; each caique, headed by its pot of fire--blue, green, or yellow--bands of music, hurrahs of twelve times three to Mr. Messirie, the donor of this magnificent fête, and at midnight, landing at Therapia terminated this ever to be remembered day.

My last day was devoted to my grand review of the Asiatic shore, Barrack Hospital, &c., and I devoted the morning hour to my final call on numerous oriental friends from whom I had received so much kindness and friendship during my long sojourn in the East.

Arriving early the next morning at Smyrna, where forests of fig-trees abound, caravans of camels and noted brigands thrive--while at the Hôtel des deux Augustes, I wrote my Scutari journal, of which the following is a copy, being the continuation of that which appears at page 496:

HÔTEL DES DEUX AUGUSTES, SMYRNA,

_September 14th, 1856_.

Having devoted my last day in Constantinople to visit the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, I and a few friends went accordingly to Scutari. Our first visit was to the Selinie Quicklaci, so well known by the English as the Barrack Hospital, in anticipation of gathering the latest details relating to that once so celebrated spot. We found it occupied by four thousand Turkish soldiers of the Imperial Guard, lately arrived from Erzeroum. Ten or twelve thousand is the number it will hold; but at a pinch, as we were informed by one of the officers, “and no one acquainted with the place can doubt it,” fifteen thousand may be quartered in this monster barracks, which, in consequence of the events of the last three years, will be long remembered in the history of England.

After some formalities, we obtained permission from the governor, Selim Pacha, to enter the precincts of the late British Hospital; and the scene, I need not say, was entirely changed, everything having put on an Oriental aspect, and nothing remains as evidence of its late occupation by the British army but a few shelves and numbers of the beds in the various wards and corridors; and on the staircase, the partitions of the dispensaries and extra-diet kitchens, which in a few weeks longer will have passed into oblivion. The various offices which were from morning to night crowded, as well as the residence of General Storks, are now occupied by the commanding officers of the Turkish army, by whom business seems to be transacted quietly by signs, salutations, and kissing of hands, such being the Turkish fashion, scarcely a word being spoken by these living automatons. We were very politely shown through the building, accompanied by several officers. The large kitchen in the yard, which I had the fitting of, still remains, the partition which formerly divided it to form an extra-diet kitchen only being removed, making it now one vast cook-house. The twenty-four large boilers, set in marble, were in use for making the daily meal for the troops, which that day was the meat Pilaff, a dish suitable for the million of any nation, it being composed principally of rice, and the addition of a little spice or curry-powder will make it highly palatable to the English soldier. The kitchen-floor, after the Turkish fashion, was anything but cleanly; but in their cooking apparatus the contrary exists, the copper boilers being well tinned and very clean. The meat-house, store-rooms, &c., present but a meagre appearance contrasted with that, when filled with meat and provisions of all kinds, during their occupation by the English. Returning thence, we were attracted to the building by a band of music rehearsing in the Malakoff ward, the brassy sounds of which in former days would have proved anything but harmonious to the ears of the patients: several airs arranged by the late Donizetti, the Sultan’s band-master, and brother of the celebrated maestro, were performed for us with great precision, especially “God save the Queen” and the “Sultan’s March,” though still with the Oriental twang, which at first is anything but agreeable or pleasing to a European ear. We then walked round the barracks, through those I recollect once encumbered, but now empty corridors, the immensity of which is almost indescribable: the centre of the pavement alone, which in some parts is nearly worn out by the daily traffic between the rows of beds placed on either side, brought to my mind those days of sorrow and anguish in which so many brave men had nobly expired in the service of their country. Before leaving, I was very anxious to visit another department, viz., the one so lately occupied by Miss Nightingale, when, to my astonishment, our _cicerone_, without being asked, conducted us to it. But what an extraordinary change was there!--no longer were hangings of black cloth curtains before the doors; neither was seen within the pleasing appearance of the well though simply furnished apartment, erst filled on all sides with religious books, &c., relics of departed soldiers bequeathed to their friends and relations, and numerous samples of diet comforts, many of which I had experimented upon before that benevolent lady in her sanctorum. The walls were also devoid of a fine portrait of her Majesty, and numerous scripture drawings; added to that, the loss of the gentle voice of that excellent lady mingled with that of her devoted satellites. No article of furniture is now to be seen there, with the exception of a common Turkish divan, “which is far from breaking the monotony of the bare whitewashed walls,” round which were seated a dozen of dark-coloured warlike-looking officers, who very politely rose when we entered. Hardly had we seated ourselves, at their request, than an army of Chiboukchi Bachis entered and presented us with long chibouques; which while we were smoking, the same formidable army re-appeared, each bearing a cup of coffee and sherbet, which we partook of; and a few minutes after, we retired, through thick clouds of smoke, the smell of coffee, and no end of salutations from our illustrious hosts, among whom were Osman Pacha, whose politeness will for ever be engraved upon my memory. My mind was so struck with the sudden _changement à vue_ at the time, that I could almost have attributed it to an effect of the magic wand of Harlequin.

Thanking them for their kind entertainment, we retired, they politely conducting us to the grand entrance. We then took a stroll through the town, which we found comparatively deserted: the names of the streets remain, as well as the designations of Clarendon House, Russell House, Chaplain House, Victoria House, &c. We next visited Hyder Pacha, called the General Hospital, where there were about three hundred and forty sick, and amongst them were about ten sick Polish soldiers: there were no cases of cholera, and but few of fever, dysentery, &c. Nothing there seemed changed, except the introduction of Turkish utensils in lieu of English ones. The numbers of the beds were engraved upon copper crescents, and each man had a round tinned copper tray, tankard, and spitting-vase; and here and there were copper water-jugs of an elegant form, and basins of elaborate workmanship for the doctors to wash their hands. Cleanliness seemed to be closely attended to. The kitchen there remains exactly as I had planned it; and the extra diets, though very limited, were prepared on charcoal stoves.

We then went to the Cemetery, which we found in very good order, with the exception of two tombstones not yet fixed; one in memory of Capt. W. R. N. Campbell, of the 5th Dragoon Guards, who died at Scutari, the 23rd of December, 1854; and the other to the memory of Lieut. J. M. Holford, 25th Regiment, who died November 29th, 1854. And though there was a Turkish guard or labourer in the Cemetery, he could not inform our dragoman when or where they were to be placed; and as there are no English remaining in Scutari, it would be prudent of the friends of the deceased to inquire as to their placement, for if left to the Turkish authorities a mistake might occur, and we could find no indication of the spot where the remains were interred. The grave of Major Sorrell, with whom I had the pleasure of being acquainted, and whose death (by fever) was so lamented, he being only ill one day, is marked by a plain piece of board bearing his name. There is also the grave of the Russian General Chekachoff, who was wounded at the Alma and taken prisoner: he died a few days after his arrival at Scutari, in his last moments expressing his gratitude for the kindness he had received from the medical officers who attended him. This fact was related to me by Signor Marco Vido of the British Embassy, who was present at his decease. His grave bears no more permanent memento.

The spot selected for the Scutari Monument about to be erected, though not in the centre of the Cemetery, will be a lasting national testimonial to the memory of the brave, as it will form a landmark which cannot fail to be seen from the Sea of Marmora, Pera, Stamboul, the Isles des Princes, Kadikoi, &c. &c. The tombstones, though not numerous, are well executed and in good preservation: amongst them may be mentioned those of the Honourable Grey Neville, 5th Dragoon Guards, and Henry Neville, Grenadier Guards, sons of Lord Braybrooke, surviving each other only six days--both wounded at Inkermann. There is also a memento to William Frederic Viscount Chewton, son of the Earl of Waldegrave, killed at Alma, September 20th, 1854.

The wooden cavalry barracks present a most desolate heap of ruins and destruction, and are about to be removed.

We were now obliged to return through the grand Champ des Morts, the vast and mournful spot where millions of souls have rested for centuries in the dark shade of the cypress forest; and I can assure you, Mr. Editor, that the day was anything but one of gaiety, but, on the contrary, very solemn though interesting.

With the highest consideration, I have the honour to remain, &c.

Our next stay was at Malta, where I received a most gratifying reception from the governor, military and civil authorities, as well as from the gentlemen of the press. A stay of ten days in that city of ancient chivalry will in my memory form an historical page of most agreeable reminiscences, and could I have accepted all the dinners offered me by the officers of various regiments, whom I had met in the Crimea, three months would hardly have sufficed in fulfilling the invitations. To Colonel Haley of the 47th, I cannot but feel grateful for the magnificent banquet he gave on the occasion, when about fifty of the heads of the army there stationed sat around the festive board, and at which our epicurean soldier distinguished himself by concocting a most excellent potage aux crevettes, and two dressed fish, peculiar to Malta.[32]

Our next stay was at Marseilles, and being accompanied by Mr. Robertson, the celebrated photographist of Constantinople, we once more degustated the celebrated bouillabaisse. We afterwards took a stroll through the part of France so lately inundated, where we met the celebrated Horace Vernet; after a few hours at Lyons, we reached Paris the same evening, which to our astonished eyes displayed quite a new aspect, with her Rivoli rods of fire, magnificent palaces, and stupendous streets. Above two years had elapsed since my last visit, and had created, under the guidance of the imperial wand of Napoleon III., these wonders. After gazing with amazement over that far-famed city, I retired to my native place, Meaux en Brie, the birthplace of Bossuet, which I had not visited for upwards of twenty-six years, having only a local interest in the place, I being the last of my family left. During the progress of this work, when returning to Paris, I had, after an application, the honour of an interview with his Imperial Majesty the Emperor, who took a most vivid interest in the descriptive narrative I gave him of my Eastern mission, and entered into the most minute details on hospital and camp cookery, &c. Our interview took place at the Chateau des Tuileries, and lasted about half an hour; and after submitting and explaining to his Imperial Majesty a model of my field-stove, he desired to have an ordinary one forwarded from London, to serve as a model for his army. His Majesty also took a vivid interest in the perusal of my simple hospital dietary and army receipts. The affability of his Majesty towards me in alluding to his high appreciation of my services in the East, more than repays me for my very humble duties.[33]

* * * * *

In accordance with my aforementioned promise, having already gathered so much matter for this narrative work, I find myself compelled to reserve what I have so carefully collected for another work, already mentioned in a note at the foot of preceding page, in which I shall insert only the dishes most renowned in each country, and thus render them practical everywhere. I have, during my six months’ travels since leaving the Crimea, personally visited and become acquainted with the cookery of Russia, Turkey, Germany, Greece, Malta, Italy, and France, also that of its great provincial towns--of the latter till now unknown to me. They all enjoy a high reputation for peculiar dishes so much esteemed by the real gourmet. With Strasbourg, my culinary peregrinations closed. I addressed to the local paper of that antique and interesting city the following letter respecting the production of its delicious _foies gras_ and erroneous Inquisitional Romance:--

ARTICLE PUBLISHED IN THE “COURIER DU BAS RHIN.”

It has been said and generally credited in England and in France, that the enormous development of the fat livers is obtained by a system of torture inflicted by the Strasburghers upon the unfortunate goose, the protecting bird of the Capitol. A certain English publication states, “they are confined in dark cellars, nailed to the floor by the feet before a slow fire which is kept constantly burning, and they are then crammed to repletion, so much so that the first cramming keeps the digestive organs in action for weeks. This system of torture, worthy of the mysteries of the Spanish Inquisition, dries up the frame of the poor bird to a skeleton, and thus the liver acquires its enormous development under the combined influence of cramming, want of exercise, and the constant slow heat.”

“I am happy,” says Monsieur Soyer, “to show there is no truth in this statement, and, from personal observation while at Strasbourg, to be able to contradict those absurd fables so long credited in England. I can certify that the geese intended for fattening are allowed to roam about the farms and grass-fields in Alsace till they are seven or eight months old, kept in flocks, and well watched and tended.

“Having reached their requisite degree of maturity, they are brought to the city market by the country farmers and sold to persons who make the fattening a special business. They are now crammed three times a day with dry and ripe Indian meal, kept in clean wooden cages, and allowed to drink as much water as they like; others, in greater numbers, roam about in large barns, very light and well ventilated: these are also kept extremely clean. Each bird consumes about a bushel of Indian meal before attaining the requisite fatness, and but few die from disease during the process. I have been assured that the quality of the water in Strasbourg contributes greatly to the development of the livers, but cannot vouch for the authenticity of this statement.”

Here is the whole of the mystery of the cruel process so long commented upon in England; and, far from being Torquemadas, the parties who follow this business, on the contrary, treat the victims destined for the celebrated _pâtés de foies_ with great care and humanity. Every Englishman may henceforth eat his _pâté_ with a clear conscience, as does the French _gourmet_, without contravening the law of Grammont.

The livers are usually sold at five, six, ten, and even twelve and fifteen francs each, according to the size and quality.

There is no special market for them, but the fatteners carry them round for sale to the pastry-cooks and private establishments.

Independently of the liver, the dealer reaps a further profit upon the goose (which is in general very plump and fat), besides the down and the goose-grease.

I purpose adding to this _recherché_ and universal bill of fare, a few receipts from Spain, Portugal, America, India, and China; closing this small but well-filled volume with the roast-beef and plum-pudding of Old England, which they are at present totally incapable of cooking properly in Paris, but which I intend compelling them to do, inasmuch as they now have in that city of gourmets and cradle of gastronomy nearly as good meat as any to be found in the English metropolis.

The work will be published at a moderate price, and printed in different languages, and will, I hope, prove acceptable to the public, as well as beneficial, in a culinary point of view, to all nations.

* * * * *

A few weeks after my visit to his Majesty the Emperor Napoleon III., and having delivered my report upon the kitchens for the working classes, to my joy the time had arrived to sail for England’s happy land, which two years previous I had so unexpectedly left. Double pleasure was attached to my return, for I felt assured that within its sea-girt shore thousands of true British hearts were wishing me well, to use his Majesty the Sultan’s term. And indeed I was not disappointed, for in less than forty-eight hours after my arrival in its mighty metropolis, I had been so fervently shaken by the hand, that I could not but help exclaiming for a short time, “Save me from my friends.” Added to this, my kind reception by the home authorities was to me more than gratifying: then the last, though not least, reminiscence of my late campaign which occurred in Hyde Park, on the occasion of the distribution of the Order of Valour by her Most Gracious Majesty, when, being recognised amongst the thousands assembled in the stand by the valiant general, Sir Colin Campbell, the elevation of my hat was not sufficient for the impetuosity of the major-domo of this grand and imposing ceremony--the last link of the late memorable Crimean Campaign. On my going towards Sir Colin I was greeted with a hearty shake of the hand, and the usual kind and affable inquiries so peculiar to the amiable General having passed between us, I could not help expressing to the gallant warrior how highly gratified I had been by the admirable and perfect manœuvring of the troops. Shortly after he bade me adieu, and, accompanied by his staff, left the ground. At this time I much regretted not having had the opportunity of paying my duty to one of the generals in command, as it would have closed, in a most _apropos_ manner, the last page of this work, my “Culinary Campaign;” but, thanks to my star, an hour after the termination of the proceedings, while walking along Piccadilly towards my residence, a friend’s voice behind me exclaimed--“Halloo, Monsieur Soyer!” On turning round, who, to my astonishment, should I perceive, mounted on his Balaklava charger, and followed by his aide-de-camp, but the very gallant general whose absence I had just been regretting. It was no other than Lord William Paulet, who was turning the corner to enter his chambers in the Albany. “I have,” exclaimed his lordship, “been looking out everywhere for you, having learned from Sir Colin Campbell that you were upon the ground.”

“So have I been looking for you, my lord, and with great anxiety, but unfortunately I was deprived of the pleasure of meeting you.”

“By-the-bye, Soyer, I saw your portrait in the historical Scutari painting, by Barrett, this morning at Buckingham Palace, and I consider it an excellent likeness.”

“I am glad you think so, my lord, and for my part I consider the whole of the picture remarkably well executed. At the same time allow me to inform your lordship, that as you are so near home, I should have been very sorry to have had the pleasure of meeting you in the Park.”

“Why so, Soyer?” remarked his lordship, leaning over his charger, and still retaining my hand in his.

“Well, my lord, the reason is simple. Having so prosperously commenced my culinary campaign under your command and very kind assistance, while your lordship was Brigadier-general of Scutari, nothing could be more in accordance with my wishes than that the last page of a work which I am now about completing, in anticipation of perpetuating the style of cookery introduced by me both at Scutari and in the camp before Sebastopol, should terminate at the very threshold of your door, and while you were returning from the last national ceremony relating to the great Crimean campaign.”

“Well, upon my word, it is very remarkable; and I am happy to think, Soyer, that you have written a work upon so important and interesting a subject.”

We then parted. A few minutes had thrown a curtain over this grand military display, which will ever be remembered in history, as well as graven on the memory of man.

The Author, after his laborious campaign, in bidding adieu to his readers, does not intend to remain _Soyer tranquille_, as he is most anxious, after having chronicled his culinary reminiscences of the late war, to put his views into action by simple practice; and as he had no other object in writing this book, he sincerely hopes it may be the means of causing a lasting amelioration in the cooking for both army and navy, and all public institutions. Such a result to his labours, after his long culinary experience, would make the author happy indeed, and he would for the future be found as traced below.

ADDENDA.

INTRODUCTION.--THIS PART OF THE WORK, THOUGH THE LAST, I CONSIDER NOT THE LEAST, BEING THE MOST USEFUL. IT NEEDS NO PREFACE. ITS CONTENTS ARE AS FOLLOWS: FIRST, THE NEW HOSPITAL DIETS; SECONDLY, THE COOKING FOR THE ARMY AND NAVY; THIRDLY, THE LONDON SUPPER; FOURTHLY, THE CHEAP RECEIPTS, WHEREBY THE WEALTHY CAN, AT A TRIFLING EXPENSE, AID IN WINTER THE WORKING CLASSES AND THE NEEDY.

SOYER’S HOSPITAL DIETS,

AS INTRODUCED BY HIM WITH THE CONCURRENCE OF THE LEADING MEDICAL GENTLEMEN OF THE BRITISH MILITARY HOSPITALS IN THE EAST.

* * * * *

REMARK.--THE IMPORTANCE ATTACHING TO WEIGHTS AND MEASURES IN THE ACCOMPANYING RECEIPTS IS FULLY RECOGNISED; IT IS THEREFORE NECESSARY THAT REGIMENTAL AS WELL AS CIVIL HOSPITALS SHOULD BE SUPPLIED WITH SCALES, AND WITH MEASURES FOR LIQUIDS.

* * * * *

_Correct Bill of Fare for Hospital Diet for the Army in the East, as first introduced by Monsieur Soyer in the Great Barrack Hospital, Scutari, and subsequently in others, while on his Government Mission during the late War, for the Sick, Wounded, and Convalescent, and applicable to all Hospitals throughout the United Kingdom of Great Britain._

NO. 1.--SEMI-STEWED MUTTON AND BARLEY. SOUP FOR 100 MEN.[34]

Put in a convenient-sized caldron 130 pints of cold water, 70 lbs. of meat, or about that quantity, 12 lbs. of plain mixed vegetables (the best that can be obtained), 9lbs. 6oz. of barley, 1lb. 7oz. of salt, 1lb. 4oz. of flour, 1lb. 4oz. of sugar, 1oz. of pepper. Put all the ingredients into the pan at once, except the flour; set it on the fire, and when beginning to boil, diminish the heat, and simmer gently for two hours and a half; take the joints of meat out, and keep them warm in the orderly’s pan; add to the soup your flour, which you have mixed with enough water to form a light batter; stir well together with a large spoon; boil another half-hour, skim off the fat, and serve the soup and meat separate. The meat may be put back into the soup for a few minutes to warm again prior to serving. The soup should be stirred now and then while making, to prevent burning or sticking to the bottom of the caldron.

The joints are cooked whole, and afterwards cut up in different messes; being cooked this way, in a rather thick stock, the meat becomes more nutritious.

_Note._--The word “about” is applied to the half and full diet, which varies the weight of the meat; but ½lb. of mutton will always make a pint of good soup: 3lbs. of mixed preserved vegetables must be used when fresh are not to be obtained, and put in one hour and a half prior to serving, instead of at first; they will then show better in the soup, and still be well done.

All the following receipts may be increased to large quantities, but by all means closely follow the weight and measure.

NO. 2.--BEEF SOUP.

Proceed the same as for mutton, only leave the meat in till serving, as it will take longer than mutton. The pieces are not to be above 4 or 5lbs. weight; and for a change, half rice may be introduced; the addition of 2lbs. more will make it thicker and more nutritive; ¼lb. of curry powder will make an excellent change also. To vary the same, half a pint of burnt sugar water may be added--it will give the soup a very rich brown colour. (Vide Receipt No. 32.)

NO. 3.--BEEF TEA. RECEIPT FOR SIX PINTS.

Cut 3lbs. of beef into pieces the size of walnuts, and chop up the bones, if any; put it into a convenient-sized kettle, with ½lb. of mixed vegetables, such as onions, leeks, celery, turnips, carrots (or one or two of these, if all are not to be obtained), 1oz. of salt, a little pepper, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, 2oz. of butter, half a pint of water. Set it on a sharp fire for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, stirring now and then with a spoon, till it forms a rather thick gravy at bottom, but not brown: then add 7 pints of hot or cold water, but hot is preferable; when boiling, let it simmer gently for an hour; skim off all the fat, strain it through a sieve, and serve.

NO. 3A.--ESSENCE OF BEEF TEA.

For camp hospitals.--“Quarter pound tin case of essence.”

If in winter set it near the fire to melt; pour the contents in a stew-pan and twelve times the case full of water over it, hot or cold; add to it two or three slices of onion, a sprig or two of parsley, a leaf or two of celery, if handy, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of sugar; pass through a colander and serve. If required stronger, eight cases of water will suffice, decreasing the seasoning in proportion. In case you have no vegetables, sugar, or pepper, salt alone will do, but the broth will not be so succulent.

NO. 4.--THICK BEEF TEA.

Dissolve a good teaspoonful of arrowroot in a gill of water, and pour it into the beef tea twenty minutes before passing through the sieve--it is then ready.

NO. 5.--STRENGTHENING BEEF TEA, WITH CALVES-FOOT JELLY OR ISINGLASS.

Add ¼oz. calves-foot gelatine to the above quantity of beef tea previous to serving, when cooking.

NO. 6.--MUTTON AND VEAL TEA.

Mutton and veal will make good tea by proceeding precisely the same as above. The addition of a little aromatic herbs is always desirable. If no fresh vegetables are at hand, use 2oz. of mixed preserved vegetables to any of the above receipts.

NO. 7.--CHICKEN BROTH.

Put in a stewpan a fowl, 3 pints of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of rice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, a middle-sized onion, or 2oz. of mixed vegetables; boil the whole gently for three quarters of an hour: if an old fowl, simmer from one hour and a half to two hours, adding 1 pint more water; skim off the fat, and serve. A small fowl will do.

_Note._--A light mutton broth may be made precisely the same, by using a pound and a half of scrag of mutton instead of fowl.

For thick mutton broth proceed as for thick beef tea, omitting the rice; a tablespoonful of burnt sugar water will give a rich colour to the broth.

NO. 8.--PLAIN BOILED RICE.

Put 2 quarts of water in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salt; when boiling, add to it ½lb. of rice, well washed; boil for ten minutes, or till each grain becomes rather soft; drain it into a colander, slightly grease the pot with butter, and put the rice back into it; let it swell slowly for about twenty minutes near the fire, or in a slow oven; each grain will then swell up, and be well separated; it is then ready for use.

NO. 9.--SWEET RICE.

Add to the plain boiled rice 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little cinnamon, a quarter of a pint of milk; stir it with a fork, and serve; a little currant jelly or jam maybe added to the rice.

NO. 10.--RICE WITH GRAVY.

Add to the rice 4 tablespoonfuls of the essence of beef, a little butter, if fresh, half a teaspoonful of salt; stir together with a fork, and serve.

A teaspoonful of Soyer’s Sultana Sauce, or relish, will make it very wholesome and palatable, as well as invigorating to a fatigued stomach.[35]

NO. 11.--PLAIN OATMEAL.

Put in a pan ¼lb. of oatmeal, 1½oz. of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 3 pints of water; boil slowly for twenty minutes, “stirring continually,” and serve. A quarter of a pint of boiled milk, an ounce of butter, and a little pounded cinnamon or spice added previous to serving is a good variation.

This receipt has been found most useful at the commencement of dysentery by the medical authorities.

NO. 12.--CALVES-FOOT JELLY.

Put in a proper sized stewpan 2¼oz. of calves-foot gelatine, 4oz. of white sugar, 4 whites of eggs and shells, the peel of a lemon, the juice of three middle-sized lemons, half a pint of Marsala wine; beat all well together with the egg-beater for a few minutes, then add 4½ pints of cold water; set it on a slow fire, and keep whipping it till boiling. Set it on the corner of the stove, partly covered with the lid, upon which you place a few pieces of burning charcoal; let it simmer gently for ten minutes, and strain it through a jelly-bag. It is then ready to put in the ice or some cool place. Sherry will do if Marsala is not at hand.

For orange jelly use only 1 lemon and 2 oranges. Any delicate flavour may be introduced.

_Note._--I find that the preparation now manufactured by Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell, of Soho-square, London, is preferable to any other, being also cheaper than boiling calves’ feet on purpose, which takes a very long time, and is more difficult to make. This preparation will keep as long as isinglass, to prove which I am induced at the same time to give the following receipt, when the other cannot be procured. Ox-feet or cow-heel may be used instead of calves-feet, only requiring an hour more simmering. In summer ice must be used to set the jelly.

JELLY STOCK,

Made from calf’s feet, requires to be made the day previous to being used, requiring to be very hard to extract the fat. Take two calf’s feet, cut them up, and boil in three quarts of water; as soon as it boils remove it to the corner of the fire, and simmer for five hours, keeping it skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, and let it remain until quite hard, then remove the oil and fat, and wipe the top dry. Place in a stew-pan half a pint of water, one of sherry, half a pound of lump sugar, the juice of four lemons, the rinds of two, and the whites and shells of five eggs; whisk until the sugar is melted, then add the jelly, place it on the fire, and whisk until boiling, pass it through a jelly-bag, pouring that back again which comes through first until quite clear; it is then ready for use, by putting it in moulds or glasses. Vary the flavour according to fancy.

NO. 13.--SAGO JELLY.

Put into a pan, 3oz. of sago, 1½oz. of sugar, half a lemon-peel cut very thin, ¼ teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, or a small stick of the same; put to it 3 pints of water and a little salt; boil ten minutes, or rather longer, stirring continually, until rather thick, then add a little port, sherry, or Marsala wine; mix well, and serve hot or cold.

NO. 14.--ARROWROOT MILK.

Put into a pan 4oz. of arrowroot, 3oz. of sugar, the peel of half a lemon, ¼ teaspoonful of salt, 2½ pints of milk; set it on the fire, stir round gently, boil for ten minutes, and serve. If no lemons at hand, a little essence of any kind will do.

When short of milk, use half water; half an ounce of fresh butter is an improvement before serving. If required thicker, put a little milk.

NO. 15.--THICK ARROWROOT PANADA.

Put in a pan 5oz. of arrowroot, 2½oz. of white sugar, the peel of half a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, 4 pints of water; mix all well, set on the fire, boil for ten minutes; it is then ready. The juice of a lemon is an improvement; a gill of wine may also be introduced, and ½oz. of calf’s-foot gelatine previously dissolved in water will be strengthening. Milk, however, is preferable, if at hand.

NO. 16.--ARROWROOT WATER.

Put into a pan 3oz. of arrowroot, 2oz. of white sugar, the peel of a lemon, ¼ teaspoonful of salt, 4 pints of water; mix well, set on the fire, boil for ten minutes. It is then ready to serve either hot or cold.

NO. 17.--RICE WATER.

Put 7 pints of water to boil, add to it 2 ounces of rice washed, 2oz. of sugar, the peel of two-thirds of a lemon; boil gently for three-quarters of an hour; it will reduce to 5 pints; strain through a colander; it is then ready.

The rice may be left in the beverage or made into a pudding, or by the addition of a little sugar or jam, will be found very good for either children or invalids.

NO. 18.--BARLEY WATER.

Put in a saucepan 7 pints of water, 2oz. of barley, which stir now and then while boiling; add 2oz. of white sugar, the rind of half a lemon, thinly peeled; let it boil gently for about two hours, without covering it; pass it through a sieve or colander; it is then ready. The barley and lemon may be left in it.

NO. 19.--SOYER’S PLAIN LEMONADE.

Thinly peel the third part of a lemon, which put into a basin with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar; roll the lemon with your hand upon the table to soften it; cut it into two, lengthwise, squeeze the juice over the peel, &c., stir round for a minute with a spoon to form a sort of syrup; pour over a pint of water, mix well, and remove the pips; it is then ready for use. If a very large lemon, and full of juice, and very fresh, you may make a pint and a half to a quart, adding sugar and peel in proportion to the increase of water. The juice only of the lemon and sugar will make lemonade, but will then be deprived of the aroma which the rind contains, the said rind being generally thrown away.

NO. 20.--SEMI-CITRIC LEMONADE. RECEIPT FOR FIFTY PINTS.

Put 1oz. of citric acid to dissolve in a pint of water; peel 20 lemons thinly, and put the peel in a large vessel, with 3lbs. 2oz. of white sugar well broken; roll each lemon on the table to soften it, which will facilitate the extraction of the juice; cut them into two, and press out the juice into a colander or sieve, over the peel and sugar, then pour half a pint of water through the colander, so as to leave no juice remaining; triturate the sugar, juice and peel together for a minute or two with a spoon, so as to form a sort of syrup, and extract the aroma from the peel and the dissolved citric acid; mix all well together, pour on 50 pints of cold water, stir well together; it is then ready. A little ice in summer is a great addition.

* * * * *

_Observation._--The two following Lemonades, which have been submitted to eminent Doctors at Scutari, have been approved of, and can be made for either the Hospitals or the Camp, and will be found to answer equally for domestic consumption, if lemons are not to be obtained.

NO. 21.--SOYER’S CHEAP CRIMEAN LEMONADE.

Put into a basin 2 tablespoonfuls of white or brown sugar, ½ a tablespoonful of lime juice, mix well together for one minute, add 1 pint of water, and the beverage is ready. A drop of rum will make a good variation, as lime juice and rum are daily issued to the soldiers.

NO. 22.--TARTARIC LEMONADE.

Dissolve 1oz. of crystallized tartaric acid in a pint of cold water, which put in a large vessel; when dissolved, add 1lb. 9oz. of white or brown sugar--the former is preferable; mix well to form a thick syrup; add to it 24 pints of cold water, slowly mixing well; it is then ready.

It may be strained through either a colander or a jelly-bag; if required very light, add 5 pints more water, and sugar in proportion; if citric acid be used, put only 20 pints of water to each ounce.

NO. 23.--CHEAP PLAIN RICE PUDDING, FOR CAMPAIGNING,

In which no eggs or milk are required: important in the Crimea or the field.

Put on the fire, in a moderate-sized saucepan, 12 pints of water; when boiling, add to it 1lb. of rice or 16 tablespoonsful, 4oz. of brown sugar or 4 tablespoonsful, 1 large teaspoonful of salt, and the rind of a lemon thinly pealed; boil gently for half an hour, then strain all the water from the rice, keeping it as dry as possible.

The rice-water is then ready for drinking, either warm or cold. The juice of a lemon may be introduced, which will make it more palatable and refreshing.

THE PUDDING.

Add to the rice 3oz. of sugar, 4 tablespoonsful of flour, half a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon; stir it on the fire carefully for five or ten minutes; put it in a tin or a pie-dish, and bake. By boiling the rice a quarter of an hour longer, it will be very good to eat without baking. Cinnamon may be omitted.

NO. 23A.--BATTER PUDDING.

Break two fresh eggs in a basin, beat them well, add one tablespoonful and a half of flour, which beat up with your eggs with a fork until no lumps remain; add a gill of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, butter a teacup or a basin, pour in your mixture, put some water in a stew-pan, enough to immerge half way up the cup or basin in water; when boiling put in your cup or basin and boil twenty minutes, or till your pudding is well set; pass a knife to loosen it, turn out on a plate, pour pounded sugar and a pat of fresh butter over, and serve. A little lemon, cinnamon, or a drop of any essence may be introduced. A little light melted butter, sherry, and sugar, may be poured over. If required more delicate, add a little less flour. It may be served plain.

NO. 24.--BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.

Butter a tart-dish well, and sprinkle some currants all round it, then lay in a few slices of bread and butter; boil one pint of milk, pour it on two eggs well whipped, and then on the bread and butter; bake it in a hot oven for half an hour. Currants may be omitted.

NO. 25.--BREAD PUDDING.

Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel; pour it on two ounces of bread-crumbs; then add two eggs, half an ounce of currants, and a little sugar: steam it in a buttered mould for one hour.

NO. 26.--CUSTARD PUDDING.

Boil one pint of milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel and half a bay-leaf, for three minutes; then pour these on to three eggs, mix it with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it into a buttered mould: steam it twenty-five minutes in a stew-pan with some water (see No. 115), turn out on a plate and serve.

NO. 27.--RICH RICE PUDDING.

Put in ½lb. of rice in a stew-pan, washed, 3 pints of milk, 1 pint of water, 3oz. of sugar, 1 lemon peel, 1oz. of fresh butter; boil gently half an hour, or until the rice is tender; add 4 eggs, well beaten, mix well, and bake quickly for half an hour, and serve: it may be steamed if preferred.

NO. 28--STEWED MACARONI.

Put in a stewpan 2 quarts of water, half a tablespoonful of salt, 2oz. of butter; set on the fire; when boiling, add 1lb. of macaroni, broken up rather small; when boiled very soft, throw off the water; mix well into the macaroni a tablespoonful of flour, add enough milk to make it of the consistency of thin melted butter; boil gently twenty minutes; add in a tablespoonful of either brown or white sugar, or honey, and serve.

A little cinnamon, nutmeg, lemon-peel, or orange-flower water may be introduced to impart a flavour; stir quick. A gill of milk or cream may now be thrown in three minutes before serving. Nothing can be more light and nutritious than macaroni done this way. If no milk, use water.

NO. 29.--MACARONI PUDDING.

Put 2 pints of water to boil, add to it 2oz. of macaroni, broken in small pieces; boil till tender, drain off the water and add half a tablespoonful of flour, 2oz. of white sugar, a quarter of a pint of milk, and boil together for ten minutes; beat an egg up, pour it to the other ingredients, a nut of butter; mix well and bake, or steam. It can be served plain, and may be flavoured with either cinnamon, lemon, or other essences, as orange flower-water, vanilla, &c.

NO. 30.--SAGO PUDDING.

Put in a pan 4oz. of sago, 2oz. of sugar, half a lemon peel or a little cinnamon, a small pat of fresh butter, if handy, half a pint of milk; boil for a few minutes, or until rather thick, stirring all the while; beat up 2 eggs and mix quickly with the same; it is then ready for either baking or steaming, or may be served plain.

NO. 31.--TAPIOCA PUDDING.

Put in a pan 2oz. of tapioca, 1½ pint of milk, 1oz. of white or brown sugar, a little salt, set on the fire, boil gently for fifteen minutes, or until the tapioca is tender, stirring now and then to prevent its sticking to the bottom, or burning; then add two eggs well beaten; steam or bake, and serve. It will take about twenty minutes steaming, or a quarter of an hour baking slightly. Flavour with either lemon, cinnamon, or any other essence.

NO. 32.--BOILED RICE SEMI-CURRIED, FOR THE PREMONITORY SYMPTOMS OF DIARRHŒA.

Put 1 quart of water in a pot or saucepan; when boiling, wash ½lb. of rice and throw it into the water; boil fast for ten minutes; drain your rice in a colander, put it back in the saucepan, which you have slightly greased with butter; let it swell slowly near the fire, or in a slow oven till tender; each grain will then be light and well separated.

Add to the above a small tablespoonful of aromatic sauce, called “Soyer’s Relish or Sultana Sauce,” with a quarter of a teaspoonful of curry powder; mix together with a fork lightly, and serve. This quantity will be sufficient for two or three people, according to the prescriptions of the attending physician.

NO. 33.--FIGS AND APPLE BEVERAGE.

Have 2 quarts of water boiling, into which throw 6 dry figs previously opened, and 2 apples, cut into six or eight slices each; let the whole boil together twenty minutes, then pour them into a basin to cool; pass through a sieve; drain the figs, which will be good to eat with a little sugar or jam.

NO. 34.--STEWED FRENCH PLUMS.

Put 12 large or 18 small-size French plums, soak them for half an hour, put in a stew-pan with a spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of water, a little cinnamon, and some thin rind of lemon; let them stew gently twenty minutes, then put them in a basin till cold with a little of the juice. A small glass of either port, sherry, or claret is a very good addition. The syrup is excellent.

NO. 35.--FRENCH HERB BROTH.

This is a very favourite beverage in France, as well with people in health as with invalids, especially in spring, when the herbs are young and green.

Put a quart of water to boil, having previously prepared about 40 leaves of sorrel, a cabbage lettuce, and 10 sprigs of chervil, the whole well washed; when the water is boiling, throw in the herbs, with the addition of a teaspoonful of salt, and ½oz. of fresh butter; cover the saucepan close, and let simmer a few minutes, then strain it through, a sieve or colander.

This is to be drunk cold, especially in the spring of the year, after the change from winter. I generally drink about a quart per day for a week at that time; but if for sick people it must be made less strong of herbs, and taken a little warm.

To prove that it is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct which teaches dogs to eat grass at that season of the year. I do not pretend to say that it would suit persons in every malady, because the doctors are to decide upon the food and beverage of their patients, and study its changes as well as change their medicines; but I repeat that this is most useful and refreshing for the blood.

NO. 36.--BROWNING FOR SOUPS, ETC.

Put ½lb. of moist sugar into an iron pan and melt it over a moderate fire till quite black, stirring it continually, which will take about twenty-five minutes: it must colour by degrees, as too sudden a heat will make it bitter; then add 2 quarts of water, and in ten minutes the sugar will be dissolved. You may then bottle it for use. It will keep good for a month, and will always be found very useful.

NO. 37.--TOAST-AND-WATER.

Cut a piece of crusty bread, about a ¼lb. in weight, place it upon a toasting-fork, and hold it about six inches from the fire; turn it often, and keep moving it gently until of a light-yellow colour, then place it nearer the fire, and when of a good brown chocolate colour, put it in a jug and pour over 3 pints of boiling water; cover the jug until cold, then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use. Never leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermentation in a short time. I would almost venture to say that such toast-and-water as I have described, though so very simple, is the only way toast-water should be made, and that it would keep good a considerable time in bottles.

_Baked Apple Toast-and-Water._--A piece of apple, slowly toasted till it gets quite black, and added to the above, makes a very nice and refreshing drink for invalids.

_Apple Rice Water._--Half a pound of rice, boiled in the above until in pulp, passed through a colander, and drunk when cold.

All kinds of fruit may be done the same way.

Figs and French plums are excellent; also raisins.

A little ginger, if approved of, may be used.

_Apple Barley Water._--A quarter of a pound of pearl barley instead of toast added to the above, and boil for one hour, is also a very nice drink.

_Citronade._--Put a gallon of water on to boil, cut up one pound of apples, each one into quarters, two lemons in thin slices, put them in the water, and boil them until they can be pulped, pass the liquor through a colander, boil it up again with half a pound of brown sugar, skim, and bottle for use, taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep it in a cool place.

_For Spring Drink._--Rhubarb, in the same quantities, and done in the same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling.

Also green gooseberries.

_For Summer Drink._--One pound of red currants, bruised with some raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold water, well stirred, and allowed to settle. The juice of a lemon.

_Mulberry._--The same, adding a little lemon-peel.

A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them more cooling in summer and spring.

_Plain Lemonade._--Cut in very thin slices three lemons, put them in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, either white or brown; bruise all together, add a gallon of water, and stir well. It is then ready.

_French Plum Water._--Boil 3 pints of water; add in 6 or 8 dried plums previously split, 2 or 3 slices of lemon, a spoonful of honey or sugar; boil half an hour and serve.

For _Fig, Date, and Raisin Water_, proceed as above, adding the juice of half a lemon to any of the above. If for fig water, use 6 figs.

Any quantity of the above fruits may be used with advantage in rice, barley, or arrowroot water.

EFFERVESCENT BEVERAGES.

_Raspberry Water._--Put 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar into a large glass, pour in half a pint of water; mix well.

_Pine-apple Syrup._--Three tablespoonfuls to a pint.

_Currant Syrup._--Proceed the same.

_Syrup of Orgeat._--The same.

_Orange-Flower Water._--The same, adding an ounce of lump sugar, is a most soothing drink, and is to be procured at Verrey’s, in Regent Street, or Kuntz’s, opposite Verrey’s. Put two tablespoonfuls to a glass of water. It is also extremely good with either Soda, Seltzer, or Vichy Water, the last of which is to be obtained at the depôt, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square.

ARMY RECEIPTS.

SOYER’S FIELD AND BARRACK COOKERY FOR THE ARMY.

N.B.--These receipts are also applicable for barracks, in camp, or while on the march, by the use of Soyer’s New Field Stove, now adopted by the military authorities. These receipts answer equally as well for the navy.

Each stove will consume not more than from 12 to 15lbs. of fuel, and allowing 20 stoves to a regiment, the consumption would be 300lbs. per thousand men.

The allowance per man is, I believe, 3½lbs. each, which gives a total of 3500lbs. per thousand men.

The economy of fuel would consequently be 3200 lbs. per regiment daily. Coal will burn with the same advantage.

Salt beef, pork, Irish stew, stewed beef, tea, coffee, cocoa, &c., can be prepared in these stoves, and with the same economy.

They can also be fitted with an apparatus for baking, roasting, and steaming.

NO. 1.--SOYER’S RECEIPT TO COOK SALT MEAT FOR FIFTY MEN.

_Head-Quarters, Crimea, 12th May, 1856._

1. Put 50 lbs. of meat in the boiler.

2. Fill with water, and let soak all night.

3. Next morning wash the meat well.

4. Fill with fresh water, and boil gently three hours, and serve. Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for butter.

For salt pork proceed as above, or boil half beef and half pork--the pieces of beef may be smaller than the pork, requiring a little longer time doing.

Dumplings, No. 21, may be added to either pork or beef in proportion; and when pork is properly soaked, the liquor will make a very good soup. The large yellow peas as used by the navy, may be introduced; it is important to have them, as they are a great improvement. When properly soaked, French haricot beans and lentils may also be used to advantage. By the addition of 5 pounds of split peas, half a pound of brown sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of pepper, 10 onions; simmer gently till in pulp, remove the fat and serve; broken biscuit may be introduced. This will make an excellent mess.

NO. 1A.--HOW TO SOAK AND PLAIN-BOIL THE RATIONS OF SALT BEEF AND PORK, ON LAND OR AT SEA.

To each pound of meat allow about a pint of water. Do not have the pieces above 3 or 4 lbs. in weight. Let it soak for 7 or 8 hours, or all night if possible. Wash each piece well with your hand in order to extract as much salt as possible. It is then ready for cooking. If less time be allowed, cut the pieces smaller and proceed the same, or parboil the meat for 20 minutes in the above quantity of water, which throw off and add fresh. Meat may be soaked in sea water, but by all means boiled in fresh when possible.

I should advise, at sea, to have a perforated iron box made, large enough to contain half a ton or more of meat, which box will ascend and descend by pulleys; have also a frame made on which the box might rest when lowered overboard, the meat being placed outside the ship on a level with the water, the night before using; the water beating against the meat through the perforations will extract all the salt. Meat may be soaked in sea water, but by all means washed.

NO. 2.--SOYER’S ARMY SOUP FOR FIFTY MEN.

_Head-Quarters, 12th May, 1856._

1. Put in the boiler 60 pints, 7½ gallons, or 5½ camp kettles of water.

2. Add to it 50lbs. of meat, either beef or mutton.

3. The rations of preserved or fresh vegetables.

4. Ten small tablespoonfuls of salt.

5. Simmer three hours, and serve.

P.S.--When rice is issued put it in when boiling.

Three pounds will be sufficient.

About eight pounds of fresh vegetables.

Or four squares from a cake of preserved ditto.

A tablespoonful of pepper, if handy.

Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for butter.

NO. 2A.--SALT PORK WITH MASHED PEAS, FOR ONE HUNDRED MEN.

Put in two stoves 50lbs. of pork each, divide 24lbs. in four pudding-cloths, rather loosely tied; putting to boil at the same time as your pork, let all boil gently till done, say about two hours; take out the pudding and peas, put all meat in one caldron, remove the liquor from the other pan, turning back the peas in it, add two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a pound of the fat, and with the wooden spatula smash the peas, and serve both. The addition of about half a pound of flour and two quarts of liquor, boiled ten minutes, makes a great improvement. Six sliced onions, fried and added to it, makes it very delicate.

NO. 3.--STEWED SALT BEEF AND PORK.

For a Company of One Hundred Men, or a Regiment of One Thousand Men.

_Head-Quarters, 12th June, 1855._

Put in a boiler, of well-soaked beef 30lbs., cut in pieces of a quarter of a pound each.

20lbs. of pork. 1½lb. of sugar. 8lbs. of onions, sliced, 25 quarts of water. 4lbs. of rice.

Simmer gently for three hours, skim the fat off the top, and serve.

_Note._--How to soak the meat for the above mess.--Put 50lbs. of meat in each boiler, having filled them with water, and let soak all night; and prior to using it, wash it and squeeze with your hands, to extract the salt.

In case the meat is still too salt, boil it for twenty minutes, throw away the water, and put fresh to your stew.

By closely following the above receipt you will have an excellent dish.

NO. 4.--SOYER’S FOOD FOR ONE HUNDRED MEN, USING TWO STOVES.

_Head-Quarters, Crimea._

Cut or chop 50lbs. of fresh beef in pieces of about a ¼lb. each; put in the boiler, with 10 tablespoonfuls of salt, two ditto of pepper, four ditto of sugar, onions 7lbs. cut in slices: light the fire now, and then stir the meat with a spatula, let it stew from 20 to 30 minutes, or till it forms a thick gravy, then add a pound and a half of flour; mix well together, put in the boiler 18 quarts of water, stir well for a minute or two, regulate the stove to a moderate heat, and let simmer for about two hours. Mutton, pork, or veal, can be stewed in a similar manner, but will take half an hour less cooking.

_Note._--A pound of rice may be added with great advantage, ditto plain dumplings, ditto potatoes, as well as mixed vegetables.

For a regiment of 1000 men use 20 stoves.

NO. 5.--PLAIN IRISH STEW FOR FIFTY MEN.

Cut 50lbs. of mutton into pieces of a quarter of a pound each, put them in the pan, add 8lbs. of large onions, 12lbs. of whole potatoes, 8 tablespoonfuls of salt, 3 tablespoonfuls of pepper; cover all with water, giving about half a pint to each pound; then light the fire; one hour and a half of gentle ebullition will make a most excellent stew; mash some of the potatoes to thicken the gravy, and serve. Fresh beef, veal, or pork, will also make a good stew. Beef takes two hours doing. Dumplings may be added half an hour before done.

NO. 6.--TO COOK FOR A REGIMENT OF A THOUSAND MEN.

_Head-Quarters, Crimea, 20th June, 1855._

Place twenty stoves in a row, in the open air or under cover.

Put 30 quarts of water in each boiler, 50lbs. of ration meat, 4 squares from a cake of dried vegetables--or, if fresh mixed vegetables are issued, 12lbs. weight--10 small tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 ditto of pepper, light the fire, simmer gently from two hours to two hours and a half, skim the fat from the top, and serve.

It will require only four cooks per regiment, the provision and water being carried to the kitchen by fatigue-parties; the kitchen being central, instead of the kitchen going to each company, each company sends two men to the kitchen with a pole to carry the meat.

NO. 7.--SALT PORK AND PUDDINGS WITH CABBAGE AND POTATOES.

Put 25lbs. of salt pork in each boiler, with the other 50lbs. from which you have extracted the large bones, cut in dice, and made into puddings; when on the boil, put five puddings in each, boil rather fast for two hours. You have peeled 12lbs. of potatoes and put in a net in each caldron; put also 2 winter cabbages in nets, three-quarters of an hour before your pudding is done; divide the pork, pudding, and cabbage in proportion, or let fifty of the men have pudding that day and meat the other; remove the fat, and serve. The liquor will make very good soup by adding peas or rice, as No. 1a.

For the pudding-paste put one quarter of a pound of dripping, or beef or mutton suet, to every pound of flour you use; roll your paste for each half an inch thick, put a pudding-cloth in a basin, flour round, lay in your paste, add your meat in proportion; season with pepper and a minced onion; close your pudding in a cloth, and boil.

This receipt is more applicable to barrack and public institutions than a camp. Fresh meat of any kind may be done the same, and boiled with either salt pork or beef.

NO. 8.--TURKISH PILAFF FOR ONE HUNDRED MEN.

Put in the caldron 2lbs. of fat, which you have saved from salt pork, add to it 4lbs. of peeled and sliced onions; let them fry in the fat for about ten minutes; add in then 12lbs. of rice, cover the rice over with water, the rice being submerged two inches, add to it 7 tablespoonfuls of salt, and 1 of pepper; let simmer gently for about an hour, stirring it with a spatula occasionally to prevent it burning, but when commencing to boil, a very little fire ought to be kept under. Each grain ought to be swollen to the full size of rice, and separate. In the other stove put fat and onions the same quantity with the same seasoning; cut the flesh of the mutton, veal, pork, or beef from the bone, cut in dice of about 2oz. each, put in the pan with the fat and onions, set it going with a very sharp fire, having put in 2 quarts of water: steam gently, stirring occasionally for about half an hour, till forming rather a rich thick gravy. When both the rice and meat are done, take half the rice and mix with the meat, and then the remainder of the meat and rice, and serve. Save the bones for soup for the following day. Salt pork or beef, well soaked, may be used--omitting the salt. Any kind of vegetables may be frizzled with the onions.

NO. 9.--BAKING AND ROASTING WITH THE FIELD STOVE.

By the removal of the caldron, and the application of a false bottom put over the fire, bread bakes extremely well in the oven, as well as meat, potatoes, puddings, &c. Bread might be baked in oven at every available opportunity, at a trifling cost of fuel. The last experiment I made with one was a piece of beef weighing about 25lbs., a large Yorkshire pudding, and about 10lbs. of potatoes, the whole doing at considerably under one pennyworth of fuel, being a mixture of coal and coke; the whole was done to perfection, and of a nice brown colour. Any kind of meat would, of course, roast the same.

_Baking in fixed Oven._--In barracks, or large institutions, where an oven is handy, I would recommend that a long iron trough be made, four feet in length, with a two-story movable grating in it, the meat on the top of the upper one giving a nice elevation to get the heat from the roof, and the potatoes on the grating under, and a Yorkshire pudding, at the bottom. Four or five pieces of meat may be done on one trough. If no pudding is made, add a quart more water.

NO. 10.--FRENCH BEEF SOUP, OR POT-AU-FEU, CAMP FASHION. FOR THE ORDINARY CANTEEN-PAN.

Put in the canteen saucepan 6lbs. of beef, cut in two or three pieces, bones included, ¾lb. of plain mixed vegetables, as onions, carrots, turnips, celery, leeks, or such of these as can be obtained, or 3oz. of preserved in cakes, as now given to the troops; 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1 ditto of pepper, 1 ditto of sugar, if handy; 8 pints of water, let it boil gently three hours, remove some of the fat, and serve.

The addition of 1½lb. of bread cut into slices or 1lb. of broken biscuits, well soaked, in the broth, will make a very nutritious soup; skimming is not required.

NO. 11.--SEMI-FRYING, CAMP FASHION, CHOPS, STEAKS, AND ALL KINDS MEAT OF.

If it is difficult to broil to perfection, it is considerably more so to cook meat of any kind in a frying-pan. Place your pan on the fire for a minute or so, wipe it very clean; when the pan is very hot, add in it either fat or butter, but the fat from salt and ration meat is preferable; the fat will immediately get very hot; then add the meat you are going to cook, turn it several times to have it equally done; season to each pound a small teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, and serve. Any sauce or maître d’hôtel butter may be added. A few fried onions in the remaining fat, with the addition of a little flour to the onion, a quarter of a pint of water, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a few chopped pickles or piccalilly, will be very relishing.

NO. 11A.--TEA FOR EIGHTY MEN,

Which often constitutes a whole Company.

One boiler will, with ease, make tea for eighty men, allowing a pint each man. Put forty quarts of water to boil, place the rations of tea in a fine net, very loose, or in a large perforated ball; give one minute to boil, take out the fire, if too much, shut down the cover; in ten minutes it is ready to serve.

NO. 12.--COFFEE A LA ZOUAVE FOR A MESS OF TEN SOLDIERS,

As I have taught many how to make it in the camp, the canteen saucepan holding 10 pints.

Put 9 pints of water into a canteen saucepan on the fire; when boiling add 7½ oz. of coffee, which forms the ration, mix them well together with a spoon or a piece of wood, leave on the fire for a few minutes longer, or until just beginning to boil. Take it off and pour in 1 pint of cold water, let the whole remain for ten minutes or a little longer. The dregs of the coffee will fall to the bottom, and your coffee will be clear.

Pour it from one vessel to the other, leaving the dregs at the bottom, add your ration sugar or 2 teaspoonfuls to the pint; if any milk is to be had make 2 pints of coffee less; add that quantity of milk to your coffee, the former may be boiled previously, and serve.

This is a very good way for making coffee even in any family, especially a numerous one, using 1 oz. to the quart if required stronger. For a company of eighty men use the field-stove and four times the quantity of ingredients.

NO. 13.--COFFEE, TURKISH FASHION.

When the water is just on the boil add the coffee and sugar, mix well as above, give just a boil and serve. The grouts of coffee will in a few seconds fall to the bottom of the cups. The Turks wisely leave it there, I would advise every one in camp to do the same.

NO. 14.--COCOA FOR EIGHTY MEN.

Break eighty portions of ration cocoa in rather small pieces, put them in the boiler, with five or six pints of water, light the fire, stir the cocoa round till melted, and forming a pulp not too thick, preventing any lumps forming, add to it the remaining water, hot or cold; add the ration sugar, and when just boiling, it is ready for serving. If short of cocoa in campaigning, put about sixty rations, and when in pulp, add half a pound of flour or arrowroot.

EASY AND EXCELLENT WAY OF COOKING IN EARTHEN PANS.

A very favourite and plain dish amongst the convalescent and orderlies at Scutari was the following:--

Soyer’s Baking Stewing Pan, the drawing of which I extract from my “Shilling Cookery.” The simplicity of the process, and the economical system of cooking which may be produced in it, induced me to introduce it here.

Each pan is capable of cooking for fifteen men, and no matter how hard may be the meat, or small the cutting, or poor the quality,--while fresh it would always make an excellent dish. Proceed as follows:--Cut any part of either beef (cheek or tail), veal, mutton, or pork, in fact any hard part of the animal, in 4oz. slices; have ready for each 4 or 5 onions and 4 or 5 pounds of potatoes cut in slices; put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of the pan, then a layer of meat, season to each pound 1 teaspoonful of salt, quarter 1 of pepper, and some onion you have already minced; then lay in layers of meat and potatoes alternately till full; put in 2 pints of water, lay on the lid, close the bar, lock the pot, bake two hours, and serve.

Remove some of the fat from the top, if too much; a few dumplings, as No. 21, in it will also be found excellent. By adding over each layer a little flour it makes a thick rich sauce. Half fresh meat and salt ditto will also be found excellent. The price of these pans is moderate, and they last a long time--manufacturers, Messrs. Deane and Dray.[36]

SERIES OF SMALL RECEIPTS FOR A SQUAD, OUTPOST, OR PICKET OF MEN,

Which may be increased in proportion of companies.

CAMP RECEIPTS FOR THE ARMY IN THE EAST.

(_From the Times of the 22nd January, 1855._)[37]

_No. 15. Camp Soup._--Put half a pound of salt pork in a saucepan, two ounces of rice, two pints and a half of cold water, and, when boiling, let simmer another hour, stirring once or twice; break in six ounces of biscuit, let soak ten minutes; it is then ready, adding one teaspoonful of sugar, and a quarter one of pepper, if handy.

_No. 16. Beef Soup._--Proceed as above, boil an hour longer, adding a pint more water.

_Note._--Those who can obtain any of the following vegetables will find them a great improvement to the above soups:--Add four ounces of either onions, carrots, celery, turnips, leeks, greens, cabbage, or potatoes, previously well washed or peeled, or any of these mixed to make up four ounces, putting them in the pot with the meat.

I have used the green tops of leeks and the leaf of celery as well as the stem, and found, that for stewing they are preferable to the white part for flavour. The meat being generally salted with rock salt, it ought to be well scraped and washed, or even soaked in water a few hours if convenient; but if the last cannot be done, and the meat is therefore too salt, which would spoil the broth, parboil it for twenty minutes in water, before using for soup, taking care to throw this water away.

_No. 17._--For fresh beef proceed, as far as the cooking goes, as for salt beef, adding a teaspoonful of salt to the water.

_No. 18. Pea Soup._--Put in your pot half a pound of salt pork, half a pint of peas, three pints of water, one teaspoonful of sugar, half one of pepper, four ounces of vegetables, cut in slices, if to be had; boil gently two hours, or until the peas are tender, as some require boiling longer than others--and serve.

_No. 19. Stewed Fresh Beef and Rice._--Put an ounce of fat in a pot, cut half a pound of meat in large dice, add a teaspoonful of salt, half one of sugar, an onion sliced; put on the fire to stew for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, then add two ounces of rice, a pint of water; stew gently till done, and serve. Any savoury herb will improve the flavour. Fresh pork, veal, or mutton, may be done the same way, and half a pound of potatoes used instead of the rice, and as rations are served out for three days, the whole of the provisions may be cooked at once, as it will keep for some days this time of the year, and is easily warmed up again.

N.B. For a regular canteen pan triple the quantity.

NO. 20.--RECEIPTS FOR THE FRYING-PAN.

Those who are fortunate enough to possess a frying-pan will find the following receipts very useful:--Cut in small dice half a pound of solid meat, keeping the bones for soup; put your pan, which should be quite clean, on the fire; when hot through, add an ounce of fat, melt it and put in the meat, season with half a teaspoonful of salt; fry for ten minutes, stirring now and then; add a teaspoonful of flour, mix all well, put in half a pint of water, let simmer for fifteen minutes, pour over a biscuit previously soaked, and serve.

The addition of a little pepper and sugar, if handy, is an improvement, as is also a pinch of cayenne, curry-powder, or spice; sauces and pickles used in small quantities would be very relishing; these are articles which will keep for any length of time. As fresh meat is not easily obtained, any of the cold salt meat may be dressed as above, omitting the salt, and only requires warming; or, for a change, boil the meat plainly, or with greens, or cabbage, or dumplings, as for beef; then the next day cut what is left in small dice--say four ounces--put in a pan an ounce of fat; when very hot, pour in the following:--Mix in a basin a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with water to form the consistency of thick melted butter, then pour it in the pan, letting it remain for one or two minutes, or until set; put in the meat, shake the pan to loosen it, turn it over, let it remain a few minutes longer, and serve.

To cook bacon, chops, steaks, slices of any kind of meat, salt or fresh sausages, black puddings, &c. Make the pan very hot, having wiped it clean, add in fat, dripping, butter, or oil, about an ounce of either; put in the meat, turn three or four times, and season with salt and pepper. A few minutes will do it. If the meat is salt, it must be well soaked previously.

NO. 21.--SUET DUMPLINGS.

Take half a pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper, a quarter of a pound of chopped fat pork or beef suet, eight tablespoonfuls of water, mixed well together. It will form a thick paste, and when formed, divide it into six or eight pieces, which roll in flour, and boil with the meat for twenty minutes to half an hour. Little chopped onion or aromatic herbs will give it a flavour.

_A plainer way, when Fat is not to be obtained._--Put the same quantity of flour and seasoning in a little more water, and make it softer, and divide it into sixteen pieces; boil about ten minutes. Serve round the meat.

One plain pudding may be made of the above, also peas and rice pudding thus:--One pound of peas well tied in a cloth, or rice ditto with the beef. It will form a good pudding. The following ingredients may be added: a little salt, sugar, pepper, chopped onions, aromatic herbs, and two ounces of chopped fat will make these puddings palatable and delicate.

BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS.

In introducing the subjoined Bill of Fare, applicable to the London suppers, I must here repeat that which I have previously mentioned, that my idea is far from replacing the dishes now so much in vogue both at the “Albion,” Simpson’s in the Strand, Evans’ Cider Cellars, and such-like places; but now and then a couple of dishes taken from these receipts cannot fail to prove agreeable to the partakers, without much interfering with the regular routine of the nightly business of such establishments.

NO. 1.--PLAIN MUTTON CHOPS AND RUMP STEAKS.

Though almost anybody can boast of being able to cook a plain steak or a chop, very few can say they can do them to perfection. First of all, to obtain this important point, either the mutton or beef ought to be kept till properly set, according to season; secondly, the chop especially is more preferable when cut and beat, some time before cooking, so as to set the meat and prevent its shrinking; it at all times requires a sharp fire (the broiling City fires may be taken as an example, and the continual red heat of the gridiron); lay your gridiron over a sharp fire, two minutes after lay on your chop or steak, turn three or four times; when half done, season highly with salt and pepper, and when done, serve _immediately_, on a very hot dish. Ten minutes will do a steak of 1½lb., and about six minutes a chop.

NO. 2.--RUMPSTEAK AND POTATOES.

Of all steaks, rumpsteaks are far more preferable than any other, not excepting the fillet of beef, as the meat in England is so rich, while in France they eat only the fillet of beef--that being the only eatable steak of a French ox. Have your steak cut as even as possible, nearly an inch thick, and weighing from about 1½lbs. to 2lbs.; broil it sharply as described above, season when properly done, lay it on a very hot dish, put on 2oz. or more of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 2), turn it three or four times on the dish quickly, when a most delicious gravy will be formed, then place about a pound of fried potatoes round it, and serve. For smaller steaks, for cooking be guided by size.

_Ditto with Anchovy Butter_, of which use 2oz. in lieu of the maître d’hôtel butter, and omit the potatoes.

_Same with Pimento Butter._

_Same with Shalot Butter_, well rubbing the dish prior to putting the steak on it.

NO. 3.--MUTTON AND LAMB CUTLETS A LA BOUCHERE.

The word à la bouchere, in English, means the butcher’s wife’s plain fashion, and at one time had only the merit of economy; but a real gourmet, the illustrious Cambaceres, who lived in the time of the first Empire, being served with this dish at a little country inn, while travelling, discovered the correctness of the proverb that “the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat,” and on returning to Paris introduced it to the fashionable circle, and for a long period this exquisite cotelettes d’agneaux de maison, or house-lamb cutlet, and the dainty and justly celebrated cutlets de presalé, were figuring on all the banqueting tables of the Paris gourmets in perfect _negligé_, being dressed in the following unceremonious manner:--Take either a neck of lamb or mutton, neither too fat nor too lean, chop the cutlets about six inches in length, cutting them as usual, leaving a bone in each; flatten them with the chopper, not trimming them at all, season them highly with salt and pepper, broil them very quick, and serve hot. Lamb, mutton, and veal cutlets may be done the same.

For plain cutlets with fried potatoes, cut them either à la bouchere _or trim them_, and proceed as for rumpsteak.

_Ditto for Cutlets_ à la maître d’hôtel.

For relishing sauce, see List of Sauces.

NO. 4--LAMB AND MUTTON CUTLETS, SEMI-BOUCHERE.

Cut your cutlets from the neck, one inch thick; beat them flat with a chopper without trimming them, roll them in flour, butter over; season with salt, pepper, a little chopped shalot; broil on a sharp fire, turn three or four times, and serve.

NO. 5.--RELISHING STEAK.

(Mutton, Veal, Pork, Chops and Cutlets, Fowls, Pigeons, Grilled Bones, Kidneys, &c.)

Chop fine a tablespoonful of green pickled chillies: mix with two pats of butter, a little mustard, a spoonful of grated horseradish; have a nice thick steak, spread the steak on both sides with the above, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, put on a gridiron on a sharp fire, turn three or four times; put on a hot dish with the juice of half a lemon and two teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup, and serve. If glaze is handy, spread a little over the steak.

Mutton, lamb, veal, pork, chops and cutlets may be done the same; as well as kidneys; also grilled fowls, pigeons--the latter may be egged and bread-crumbed. Proceed the same for cooking according to size. Any of the above may be half done before rubbing in the Chili butter.

NO. 6.--FILLET DE BŒUF, PARISIAN FASHION.

Cut a piece of the fillet of beef crosswise, including some fat, the thickness of an inch; beat it slightly flat with a chopper, set on a gridiron, put it on a very sharp fire, turn it two or three times; when half done, season with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, put on a hot plate, rub over with an ounce of maître d’hôtel butter (as No. 2); serve up with fried potatoes.

Mutton chops, veal chops, and lamb chops may be dressed similar.

NO. 7.--FILLET OF BEEF, SEMI-CHATEAUBRIANT.

Cut it double the thickness of the above, butter lightly over, set on the gridiron on a slowish fire, turn several times; when half done, place it nearer the fire; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter one of pepper, a little cayenne, and serve with sauce à la Mussulman (as No. 17). Maître d’hôtel butter or anchovy butter may be used instead; serve fried chipped potatoes round.

NO. 8.--CHOPS, SEMI-PROVENÇAL, OR MARSEILLES FASHION.

When the chop is half broiled, scrape half a clove of garlic and rub over on both sides of the chop; serve with the juice of a lemon. For semi-Provençal, the clove of garlic is cut in two, and the flat part is placed at the end of a fork and rubbed on the chop.

NO. 9.--CHOP OR STEAK A LA SULTANA.

Add a tablespoonful of Sultana sauce in a dish to each pound of meat; place in a dish and serve; when the steak is done, turn it in it three or four times, and it will make a most delicious gravy.

NO. 10.--MUSHROOM KIDNEY SANDWICH.

Broil 3 plain kidneys à la Brochette to keep them flat. Broil also 6 large mushroom heads; well season with salt and pepper (cayenne if approved of). A few minutes will do them; then rub a little fresh butter inside the mushrooms; dish up each kidney between two mushrooms while very hot, and serve.

If a large quantity is required, proceed thus--well butter a sautépan, lay in 20 or more heads of large mushrooms just washed, season well with salt and pepper; let stew for twenty minutes gently in an oven, or till done; make your kidney sandwich as above, add a tablespoonful of the gravy over, and serve. The same may be served on thin toast; a tablespoonful of the Sultana Sauce to every half-dozen kidneys, make a dish worthy an Epicurean. The stems of the mushrooms may be stewed and served with the dish.

NO. 11.--MINCED SANDWICHES.

Cut in small thin slices some dressed ham, ox tongue, game, or poultry, with a few pickled gherkins and olives, the whole in equal portions; mix well together; butter the bread and spread some mustard over, place the cut meat over the butter, cover over with the other slice, cut small, and serve.

NO. 12.--KIDNEYS SAUTE, WITH SHERRY, PORT, OR CHAMPAGNE.

Cut three kidneys each in five pieces, put an ounce of butter in the pan; when very hot, and beginning to smoke, add the kidneys; stir round for two or three minutes with a spoon till set; add a teaspoonful of flour, quarter ditto of salt, the third part of that of pepper; mix well; add half a gill of broth, a small wineglass of either of the above wines; if no broth, use water, adding a little glaze. A tablespoonful of colouring (No. 15) is a great improvement to the appearance of the sauce. Ox, calf, or pig’s kidneys may be dressed the same, following the proportions according to the quantity made. All the above are extremely good on toast, which would require a little more liquor. A few mushrooms are an improvement. If brown sauce can be obtained, omit the flour and broth. Do not let them boil; a few minutes will do them.

NO. 13.--SEMI-CURRIED KIDNEYS.

Take three kidneys, which forms a portion, make a small incision in the fleshy part, so as to enable you to remove the outer skin; cut each in five pieces crosswise, put some butter in a stewpan, salt, pepper, a little chopped onions, give it a fry, add the kidneys, stir them for a few minutes till set, put four tablespoonfuls of curry sauce (No. 9), and serve. If no curry sauce, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of curry powder, one of flour, and one gill of broth; serve with rice.

NO. 14.--KIDNEY TOAST.

Split the kidney in two, remove the sinews and outer skin, mince it up, and then chop fine; place in a stewpan some chopped eschalot and parsley, with a small piece of butter, and fry the same lightly; when done, add a small spoonful of Sultana Sauce, a little flour, and boil again; while boiling, mix in the chopped kidneys; add salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste.

Spread the composition upon slices of toast slightly buttered; mask them up with bread-crumbs mixed with Parmesan cheese, place in a sharp oven for ten minutes, brown them with the salamander, and serve quite hot.

NO. 15.--MUTTON, LAMB, OR VEAL CUTLETS EN PAPILLOTE, OR WRAPPED IN PAPER. DITTO, QUARTER OF FOWLS AND HALF PIGEONS, DEVILLED.

Cut two or three veal or mutton cutlets half an inch thick, then put in a sauté, or frying-pan, four tablespoonfuls of oil, season your chops thoroughly with salt and pepper, cook them gently in the pan, turning them several times; before they are quite done, take them off, add in; mix with oil remaining in the pan two tablespoonfuls of fine chopped onions, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, fry these gently on the fire for a few minutes, stirring continually; when they become a little yellowish, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix quick, then put in a pint of broth, boil till forming a thick sauce, add salt and pepper in proportion; put back the chops into the pan, simmer a few minutes, turning them; cut some paper in the shape of a heart, large enough to envelope one chop, oil it well, put a tablespoonful of the sauce on the paper, then place on it a chop, then more sauce, and plait the paper round the edge of the cutlet to inclose it; then place in the pan in a hot oven, or broil slowly. These cutlets might be prepared the day before using, and placed more conveniently in paper when cold.

NO. 16.--PORK CHOPS A LA TARTARE,

Which has one great charm--simplicity. It is seldom to be obtained, even in Crim Tartary, and when it is, the animal is in no very nice condition. When procurable in a first-class Tartar family, they are dipped in vinegar for about an hour prior to being fried or broiled. Thin slices of raw onions are eaten with the above, and a kind of cucumber peculiar to Russia, and most delicious when properly pickled; they are cut in slices with the onions very thinly, the chop is then placed over a layer while very hot, and another layer placed over the chop, until it forms a vegetable sandwich. Such is the dish so much relished by our hospitable Tartar families.

NO. 17.--LAMB CHOPS A L’AFRICAINE.

Cut a lamb chop as usual, broil it very sharply, turning it continually; when nearly done, season highly with salt and pepper, rub over with chutnee (about a teaspoonful to each chop) on both sides, then broil another minute and serve. Light melted butter with a chopped girkin makes a good variation for such as veal, pork, and broiled fowls, pigeons, and also for devilled poultry.

I must also observe that chutnee is excellent with all kinds of broiled devils; a little curry-powder may be introduced.

LAMB CHOPS A LA PRINTANIERE.

Add to the maître d’hôtel butter (as No. 2) chopped tarragon and chervil instead of parsley.

PORK CHOPS WITH PIMENTO BUTTER.

Plain broil, and rub over, in proportion, half an ounce to each chop. Add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup on the dish.

NO. 18.--LAMB CHOPS A LA BOULANGERE.

This lady, the boulangère, or baker’s wife, was invented by a lady of the French Court, in opposition to the masculine manners of the butcher’s wife.

Cut and trim neatly, eight, ten, or twelve small lamb cutlets, enough for a small entrée; season lightly with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne; dip them gently in olive oil, then in the flour box, and broil very gently on a slow fire; while doing put a gill of cream in a stewpan, set it on the fire, and when boiling add in two ounces of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of chopped chervil, the juice of half a lemon, a little salt and pepper; stir quick till the butter is melted and it forms a nice smooth sauce, then pour it over your cutlets and serve quick.

NO. 19.--STEWED TRIPE.

Select two pounds of double tripe, cut in strips of a quarter pound each, put in a clean stew-pan, add a pint of water, ditto of milk, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half that of pepper, eight middling-sized onions carefully peeled, which put in; set to boil rather fast, then simmer till done, which will be in half an hour or rather more; turn out into a deep dish or tureen, and serve.

NO. 20.--CURRIED TRIPE.

Make about a pint of curry sauce, as No. 9; cut each half-pound in four pieces; warm gently in it for half an hour, and serve with rice.

NO. 21.--GRATIN TRIPE IN SHELL.

Add to the above 2 yolks of eggs; mix quick; having taken the stewpan off the fire, stir quick; put in the scolloped shells, throw breadcrumbs over a little butter, put in an oven, salamander the top, and serve.

NO. 22.--TRIPE LYONNAISE FASHION.

When any cold tripe remains; cut in thin slices about the thickness of an inch square, mince 2 onions, put some butter, in proportion, in a frying-pan, add in the onions, fry till they are partly done, add the tripe, let fry for about 10 minutes, tossing them; season with salt and pepper, three teaspoonfuls of vinegar to each 1lb., and serve. This is a very favourite dish in Lyons and Paris, both amongst the gourmet and the gourmand. Well dry the tripe on a cloth before frying; it will take 3 ounces of butter to the pound.

NO. 23.--GRILLED CHICKEN WITH SHARP SAUCE.

Prepare your chicken as for grill, oil it over slightly, season with salt and pepper in proportion to size, then place it on a gridiron, on a rather fierce fire. When ready done, put by degrees two tablespoonfuls of Sultana Sauce over it, losing none of it. When done, have on a dish an ounce of butter; pour over the butter another tablespoonful of sauce; mix well, and after turning the chicken two or three times, serve it up.

For Relishing Sauce proceed the same, pouring half a pint of that sauce over it, No. 12.

NO. 24.--BROILING OR UNIVERSAL DEVIL.

Any kind of bones which are to undergo the process of broiling ought not to exceed a quarter of a pound each in weight, a deep incision being made in the fleshy part. The same for game and poultry. Rub each piece with the Mixture No. 70, the quantity according to palate, and broil very sharply, turning the bones often.

Strong plain gravy may be served under all.

NO. 25.--SANDWICHES FOR EVENING PARTIES.

Chop fine some cold dressed ham--say about a quarter of a pound, put it in a basin with a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins and a teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper or cayenne; put about 6oz. of butter in a basin, and with a spoon stir quickly till it forms a kind of cream; add the ham and seasoning, mix all well; have the sandwich bread cut in thin slices. Have already cut, thinly intermixed with fat, either cold roast beef, veal, lamb, mutton, poultry, fowl, pheasant, grouse, partridge, &c., either of which lay evenly, and not too thick, on your bread; season with a little salt and pepper, cover over with another piece of bread; when your sandwich is ready, cut them in any shape you like, but rather small and tastily, and serve. You may keep them in a cold place, if not wanted, as they will keep good under cover for twelve hours. Chopped tongue may be introduced instead of ham, in thin slices.

NO. 26.--LAMB’S FRY.

Cut in middling-sized pieces about 1lb. of lamb’s fry, fairly mixed; put one quart of water in a stew-pan; when boiling, add in the fry, boil fast for ten minutes, lay the fry on a cloth, dry it well, have some fine bread-crumbs ready made, to which you add a teaspoonful of salt, two of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, break and beat one or two eggs well, dip the fry in by pieces, roll them in the breadcrumbs, and slightly beat with a knife, to make the breadcrumbs adhere to the fry; have some fat or lard very hot, though not burning, ready in a frying-pan, in which place your fry for three or four minutes, when nicely coloured take off, and dish very hot on a napkin; serve with either fried parsley or chervel, free from water, which have ready in a wire colander; dip the colander in the fat, which will fry the parsley in less than a minute. For lamb fry devilled, rub over with mixture prior to using. See receipt No. 70. This I consider a light dish for supper.

NO. 27.--MUTTON OR LAMB CHOPS A LA TURC.

Cut either thin, put on a dish, season with salt and pepper, mince an onion; pick out 20 leaves of parsley, add over a little oil, rub the chop in it well, let them soak in it two hours; plain broil sharply, and serve. This is an imitation of the Turkish kybob.

NO. 28.--LOBSTER CURRY.

Make about a pint of curry sauce, No. 9, take the flesh of a middle-sized lobster, which cut in neat slices, let them simmer for ten minutes in the sauce; serve on a dish, on toast, or in the shell, or bordered by rice. Boiled as No. 8 in Hospital Receipts.

NO. 29.--LOBSTER CURRY IN THE SHELL.

Add one or two raw yolks of eggs to the above receipt while boiling hot, mix quickly; when the eggs are set, put the meat back in the shells, cover the surface with bread crumbs, a few small pieces of butter on each; put in the oven; when nicely browned, serve. By extracting the meat from the body, tail, and claws, without breaking the shells, they can be filled again with the preparation, and put together as a whole lobster; or split the lobster lengthways and serve in two halves.

SCALLOPED LOBSTER.

Put in scallop in lieu of shell. Proceed the same.

NO. 30.--LOBSTER AU GRATIN FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT LIKE CURRY.

Chop a middling-sized onion, and put it in a stewpan with 2oz. of butter; fry of a light brown, add a small tablespoonful of flour, stir together, pour over half a pint of milk, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, and an eighth of cayenne, a little sugar, nutmeg, and chopped parsley; boil a few minutes, till rather thick, add the lobster meat, give a boil, add the yolk of an egg, mix quick, fill the shells--egg and bread-crumb, put in an oven for ten minutes, brown on the top with a hot salamander or shovel, and serve.

NO. 31.--LOBSTER CUTLETS.

Cut a lobster in dice, letting the flesh weigh about half a pound; when done, put in a pan 2oz. of butter, 2 teaspoonfuls of chopped onions; put all on the fire, fry for a minute or two, add 1 teaspoonful of flour; mix well, stir in for a minute; add half a pint of milk; season with salt, pepper, and one saltspoonful of cayenne, two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley; let all boil for a minute or two, stirring all the time; add in your lobster, give it a boil; add two yolks of eggs; mix quick, put on a dish to cool. When quite cool and firm, divide in six parts, giving each the shape of a small cutlet; egg and breadcrumb twice. Put a piece of the very small claw to the end of each cutlet, so as to form a bone; fry for a few minutes, like you would a sole, in plenty of fat; lay on a cloth, and serve on a napkin, with plenty of fried parsley; you may adopt any shape you choose, if cutlets are too troublesome, as you would a croquette. No sauce is requisite.

The lobsters for the two preceding receipts may be prepared, shaped, and bread-crumbed hours before wanted.

NO. 32.--CRABS AU GRATIN IN THE SHELL.

Have the crab prepared as for plain, lay in the empty shell a layer of the soft part, then a layer of American crackers or biscuit, grated, then add the fleshy part of the crab over, on which pour a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, cover it with slices of cold, hard eggs, cut crosswise; season with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne; cover all with the remainder of the soft part of the crab, make it even with a knife; egg, and breadcrumb over, or more grated biscuit; put a few nuts of butter on the top, set in an oven for twenty minutes or half an hour, and serve very hot.

NO. 33.--STEWED OYSTERS ON TOAST.

Open a dozen of oysters, put them in a small stew-pan, add to them two grains of black pepper, a little salt, butter, cayenne, and sugar; set on the stove for a few minutes until set--say three or four minutes; having only given them a slight boil, put in a piece of butter as big as a walnut, which you have mixed with half a teaspoonful of flour, shake the stew-pan round by the handle, to melt the contents, put it back on the fire just to simmer, and serve on toast. A drop of cream is an improvement. If not enough liquor add a drop of milk.

Over-stewed oysters are as bad as over-cooked kidneys. For a large quantity, proceed the same. The only thing to be observed is, that the oysters are properly set before serving, they being neither raw nor overdone.

NO. 34.--OYSTERS STEWED AMERICAN FASHION.

Take a dozen large oysters in their liquor, bring them to a boil, add salt, pepper, and a piece of butter about the size of a nutmeg, and half a teaspoonful of chopped chervil, and serve with cracker biscuits.

NO. 35.--FRIED OYSTERS, NEW YORK WAY.

Take 12 large raw oysters, dip them in Indian meal, throw them into the hot fat immediately, like you would fried fish, and serve as soon as browned.

NO. 36.--OYSTER SOUP, NEW YORK WAY, FOR A PARTY OF FIVE PERSONS.

Take 50 oysters and the liquor, place them in a pan with salt, cayenne pepper, and a teaspoonful of chopped chervil; when boiling, add a _liason_ (or thickening) of 5 yolks of eggs, with a piece of butter the size of an egg, and serve.

Should the oysters not give liquor sufficient, add water and salt, if necessary. One-fourth of this quantity may, of course, be made.

NO. 37.--GAME FOR SUPPER.

In spite of the petite soupers de la Régence, in the early part of the reign of Louis XV., when the gastronomic art was nightly unfolding its luxurious delicacies before the illustrious guests of the Court of France, game, dressed in numerous shapes, forming the most succulent dishes, used to adorn the bills of fare of those nocturnal bacchanalian repasts which had almost triumphed over the daily festive board, the dinners then at Court being only a secondary consideration when compared with the suppers. For my part, I much prefer the former, which, as I have already mentioned, forms the focus of sociability; but when you are compelled to sup late, why not partake of game, which is much lighter food than solid meat, overdone kidneys, or oysters; for what can be more relishing and palatable for supper than the remains of either pheasant, grouse, partridge, &c., devilled or plain broiled, while plain roast game is also highly recommendable for such meals.

NO. 38.--SOYER’S GROUSE AND BLACK GAME SALAD.

This dish is also very commendable and relishing. Roast a young grouse, not overdone; when cold, cut in eight pieces; put in a salad bowl enough salad for two persons, lay the pieces of grouse over with 2 or 4 hard eggs cut lengthwise; make the sauce thin, put in a basin a tablespoonful of finely-chopped shalot, 1 ditto of parsley, ditto of pounded white sugar, the yolks of 2 raw eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter one of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 4 of oil; mix all together with a spoon, whip half a pint of cream, which add carefully to your mixture; it will then constitute a delicious salad sauce; pour over your salad, and mix carefully. Pheasants and partridges, when properly kept, are also very good.

NO. 39.--LOBSTER SALAD, FOR TWO PERSONS.

Take a middle-sized lobster, break the claw carefully, extract the tail without splitting it, cut your lobster in fine, though large, slices, crosswise, put some salad in a bowl in proportion for two, either coss or cabbage lettuce, or endive, or mixed salad, have boiled 3 or 4 hard eggs, cut crosswise when cold, then form a crown on your salad by intermixing alternate layers of egg and lobster, placing the soft part of the interior of the fish in the centre. Cucumber and beet-root may be used instead of eggs. Then put into a basin a small teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 of oil, a little sugar, stir well together, pour over your salad, which mix gently with a spoon and fork, and serve; the addition of chopped parsley, tarragon, and chervil, or chopped shalot, is an improvement.

NO. 40.--CRAB SALAD, WITH EGGS.

Place the soft part of the crab in a bowl, having made it into a pulp; add to it the quantum of oil, vinegar, salt, pepper; mix all well together, as above. If too thick, add half a gill of milk, to form a thinnish sauce; put your salad in a bowl according to proportion, over which put lightly the meat of the crab; pour your sauce over, having cut four eggs lengthwise in quarters; toss it well, stir round, and serve as above.

NO. 41.--NEW SALAD, TARTAR FASHION.

Prepare your salad, well washed and dried; (cabbage or coss lettuce are preferable); boil 4 onions; when cold cut in thick slices; cut also 4 pickled cucumbers, Israelite fashion, put a layer of the salad at the bottom, then a bed of cucumber and onion, and another of salad, at the top; have 2 mild salt herrings, ready broiled, with all the bones extracted; cut it in small square pieces, season with salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil, in proportion, tossing all well together, as this plan is preferable to using a spoon and fork.

NO. 42.--PLAIN SALAD, WITH ANCHOVIES.

Put your salad in a bowl, wash and shake as above; wash and scrape a dozen of anchovies; bone them by splitting them up; have 2 hard eggs, chopped fine; put them over the salad; chop about 2oz. of either piccalilli, pickle, or plain gherkin. The above is for four persons; then add salad enough for that number; season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter that of pepper, 4 tablespoons of oil, 2 of vinegar; stir well, but lightly, and serve. Coss and cabbage lettuce are preferable. Any one who does not object to oil, 5 tablespoonfuls may be used to 2 of the best French vinegar. For mixed salads proceed the same. Anchovies, eggs, and gherkins may be omitted, and yet will make an excellent salad.

NO. 43.--ENDIVE SALAD.

Highly appreciated by French gourmets.

Wash quickly four heads of very white endive. The French is much preferable to the English, and is imported in abundance to the London markets. Why they should be washed quickly is, that if they remain in the water any length of time they become as bitter as gall. Take off the green leaves, if any; cut the stem off and the leaf in two when too long, shake well in a cloth to dry, and put in your salad bowl, which you have previously rubbed with a piece of garlic; add in your salad, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter one of pepper, 5 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 of vinegar; rub a piece of garlic on two crusts of bread, each about the size of a walnut; add them to your salad, which you stir well for a few minutes with a spoon and fork, and serve. The garlic in this salad, far from being objectionable, gives only a slight flavour, to which no one can object, but which, on the contrary, is highly appreciated by the gourmet. Garlic may be either increased or diminished according to taste.

NO. 44.--OMELETTES WITH FINE HERBS.

Six eggs will make a nice omelette for two persons for supper; add a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, break them carefully in a basin, as a tainted egg will spoil all the rest; add three-quarters of a tablespoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, two of chopped parsley, half a one of fine chopped onions; beat them well; add 2oz. of butter in a nice clean and dry frying-pan, place it then on the fire, and when the butter is very hot then pour in your eggs, which keep mixing quick with a spoon until all is delicately set, then let it slip to the edge of the pan, _en masse_, laying hold of the handle, raising it slantwise, which will give an elongated form to the omelette; turning the edges, let it set a minute, turn on a dish, and serve.

NO. 45.--OMELETTES WITH MUSHROOMS.

Add in a couple of middling-sized mushrooms, cut very thin, and proceed as above.

NO. 46.--FOR BACON AND HAM OMELETTES.

Cut 2oz. of either in small dice, not too salt, fry two or three minutes in the butter before putting in the eggs,--and proceed as above.

NO. 47.--OMELETTES WITH SPRUE GRASS.

Cut the sprue half an inch in length, plain boil them in salt and water till done, add two tablespoonfuls to your eggs,--and proceed as above.

NO. 48.--OMELETTES WITH PARMESAN.

For Parmesan omelettes, put into your eggs two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese--Gruyère or any good dry English cheese will do as well.

NO. 49.--POACHED EGGS WITH CREAM.

Put in a small pan a pint of water, a teaspoonful of salt, four of vinegar; when boiling break carefully in the pan two, three, or four nice fresh eggs, simmer for four or five minutes, or till properly set firm, but not hard; serve either on toast or on a plain dish. Put in a small stewpan half a gill of cream, a little salt, pepper, and sugar; when the cream is on the boil add an ounce of fresh butter, take off the stewpan, toss it round till the butter is melted, pour over and serve. Fried ham and bacon may be laid on toast, poached eggs placed over, and served plain. None other but fresh eggs will poach; the quality may be ascertained by holding them up to the candle; if the shell is spotted, they are useless for poaching, though of use for other purposes.

NO. 50.--POACHED EGGS WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER.

Put two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter in a hot stewpan, and stir round till melted; pour over your eggs which you have placed on toast.

NO. 51.--POACHED EGGS, SEMI-CURRIED, WITH HAM OR BACON.

Proceed as No. 56, pouring a gill of curry sauce over.

NO. 52.--BATTERED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS.

Put in a stewpan 2oz. of butter, break over four fresh eggs, add a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper. Set on the fire, and stir continually with a wooden spoon till it forms a thickish consistency; have buttered toast on a plate, pour your eggs over, and serve.

NO. 53.--BATTERED EGGS WITH SPRUE GRASS.

Add 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled sprue grass (as No. 47), and proceed as above.

NO. 54.--HAM WITH SHALOTS, PARSLEY, AND CHERVIL.

Cut in small dice 1 oz. of clean cooked ham, put in your eggs, and cook as above. A spoonful of either shalot, parsley, or chervil will vary this dish.

NO. 55.--MIRRORED EGGS.

Put 1 oz. of butter into a small tin pan, spreading it all over, in it crack 4 eggs without breaking the yolk if possible, season over with salt and pepper, and small nuts of butter here and there; put in an oven before the fire till set, and serve.

NO. 56.--EGGS AU MIROIR, WITH HAM OR BACON.

Cut the ham or bacon in thin slices, fry a few minutes in a pan, put on your plate, break your eggs over, set in oven till set, and serve, and proceed as above. The ham may be cut in thicker slices if preferred, but will take rather longer cooking.

NO. 57.--EGGS WITH CHOPPED HAM OR TONGUE.

Cut 2oz. of dressed ham in small dice, butter the bottom of the plate or dish, and place the ham upon it; break the eggs over, season, and proceed as before.

NO. 58.--EGGS AND MUSHROOMS.

Wash, peel, and slice a few mushrooms, butter the dish thickly, spread the mushrooms over, season with salt and pepper, and set the dish in the oven till the mushrooms are done; break the eggs over and proceed as before.

NO. 59.--EGGS AND TRUFFLES.

Wash, peel, and cut in very thin slices, a fresh truffle, butter the dish, add a tablespoonful of sherry; salt and pepper; lay the slices of truffles flat over the bottom of the dish, and put it in the oven a few minutes; when boiled a minute or two, break the eggs over and cook as usual. English truffles are excellent for this purpose.

NO. 60.--EGGS WITH SPRUE GRASS.

Boil about a quarter of a pint of sprue grass; butter the dish as usual, spread the grass over, season with a little powdered sugar, salt, and pepper; break the eggs over, place in the oven, and proceed as before.

NO. 61.--EGGS A LA BONNE FEMME.

Cut a middle-sized onion in dice, put it in a stewpan with a pat of butter, and fry of a light brown; when done add a teaspoonful of vinegar; butter the dish lightly, spread the onions over, season with pepper and salt, and break the eggs over; put in the oven; when done mask the eggs with fried bread-crumbs, and serve.

NO. 62.--CURRIED EGGS.

Boil three eggs for ten minutes, put them in cold water; when, cold, shell, cut them in two lengthwise, and throw them into a curry sauce, give them a boil, dish them on the flat side in the form of a star; this will make a very good and pretty dish. Eggs boiled too hard are very unwholesome, especially for supper; done this way they will be perfect; they may be put entire in the sauce, and cut when dished up; they will take the flavour of the curry just the same.

NO. 63.--EGGS A LA TRIPE, OR ONION SAUCE.

Boil 3 eggs as above, cut them in slices, and put in a sauce you have prepared thus:--

Cut 2 middle-sized onions in slices, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and fry them till done without taking colour; add a small tablespoonful of flour, and moisten with a teacupful of milk: season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, give a boil, toss the eggs up in the sauce, and serve. The same may be served with tomato sauce.

NO. 64.--EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE.

Proceed as for curried eggs, using tomato sauce instead of curry.

NO. 65.--RAREBIT A LA SOYER, WITH SHERRY OR CHAMPAGNE.

Cut half a pound of rich cheese in small dice; put in a stewpan 2 pats of butter with a teaspoonful of mixed Durham mustard, a little salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one wineglass of sherry or champagne; put on a slow fire, stir gently with a wooden spoon till properly melted, though not stringy, which might occur if turned too quickly; have a nice toast half an inch thick done at the last minute, pour your cheese over and serve. Leaving it a few minutes in an oven is an improvement.

NO. 66.--FRIED POTATOES.

Fried potatoes being much lighter for supper than baked ones, would be an excellent introduction to the London supper bill of fare. I shall also observe that a potato when well fried does not retain a particle of grease, and therefore is not rich, or likely to be so, when properly done. Where a quantity are required, put in a wide stew-pan, three or four pounds of either lard, beef, or mutton fat;--see receipt No. 20, page 544, how to clarify the two last. Set it upon the fire, and while heating, peel a pound of potatoes about the size of a large egg, cut them in thin slices crosswise upon a clean cloth, to absorb the moisture, taking care they are well separated; when the fat is hot, “but not burning,” which you will ascertain by its giving out a light smoke, or else dip your finger in cold water and let a drop fall in the fat--if it hisses it is then at a proper heat; throw in the potatoes, and keep moving them with a skimmer to prevent them sticking together; in about three or four minutes they will be cooked and well fried, of a pale gold colour; take; them out upon a cloth, sieve, or colander; sprinkle scientifically with salt, and serve plain, or upon a napkin, or round a steak, fillet of beef, &c.

NO. 67.--FRIED POTATOES WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER.

While in the colander, and just having been fried, add to a portion of potatoes about half an ounce of maître d’hôtel butter, toast till melted, and serve either plain or round steak.

NO. 68.--FRIED POTATOES WITH CAYENNE PEPPER.

When just done throw half a saltspoonful of cayenne over them, toast them, and serve.

NO. 69.--CHIPPED OR RIBBONED POTATOES.

Cut some potatoes crosswise about the thickness of an inch, then peel them thinly in ribbons, fry as above--they will require a little longer doing; when they are crisp take them out, place them on a clean cloth, and sprinkle them over with salt, cayenne, and black pepper to fancy, and serve.

NO. 70.--SOYER’S UNIVERSAL DEVIL MIXTURE,

Which will be found applicable to all devilled food.

To devil the same, rub each piece over with the following mixture, laving made a deep incision in any article of food that may be subjected to this Mephistophelean process. Put in a bowl a good tablespoonful of Durham mustard, which mix with four tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar; add to it a tablespoonful of grated horseradish, two bruised shalots, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of cayenne, ditto of black pepper, and one of pounded sugar, two teaspoonfuls of chopped chillies, if handy; add the yolks of two raw eggs,; take a paste-brush, and after having slightly seasoned each piece with salt, rub over each piece with the same, probing some in the incisions. First broil slowly, and then the last few minutes as near as possible the Pandemonium fire. The yolks may be omitted.

NO. 71.--A PLAINER WAY FOR THE MILLION.

Mix the mustard with plain vinegar; add one half more cayenne; use the same quantity of salt, pepper, and sugar; use onions instead of shalots. The liquor of pickles is even preferable to vinegar.

Proceed as above for grilling; remains of meat, game, and poultry are very relishing when done as above, especially for an early luncheon or a late supper.

NO. 72.--CHICKEN, AMERICAN FASHION.

Have a small fowl ready for grilling, season with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne; beat an egg well, rub it over; mix some American grated crackers with maize, roll it in and beat it with a knife to make it adhere to the chicken; put it on a gridiron, and when hot through put small nuts of butter here and there; broil to a very nice colour and serve 2 doz. stewed oysters, as No. 33, on toast, which place under the fowl. Any sharp sauce instead of oysters will do for this dish.

NO. 73.--HERRING A LA ROB ROY.

Well wash and clean a red herring, wipe it dry and place it in a pie-dish, having cut off the head, and split it in two up the back; put a gill or two of whiskey over the herring, according to size, hold it on one side of the dish, so that it is covered with the spirit, set it alight, and when the flame goes out the fish is done.

NO. 74.--COLD ASPARAGUS SALAD, WHILE IN SEASON.

A very refreshing and delicious dish for supper.

When this vegetable is in season, put in a soup plate a tablespoonful of vinegar, two of oil, quarter teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, mix together, a little chopped parsley may be introduced, and dip each head of cold grass as you eat them in the mixture.

NO. 75.--NEW POTATO SALAD, GERMAN FASHION.

Boil some rather waxy potatoes, peel when just done, cut in slices, put them in a bowl, add to every pound one tablespoonful of vinegar, two of oil, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper toss up well, and eat it cold. Add a little chopped parsley.

NO. 76.--NEW POTATO SALAD, FRENCH HARICOT, AND HARICOT BEANS.

Have your vegetables properly cooked, and when cold put a pound of French or the other beans in a bowl, season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, as above, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; toss well, and serve. The French beans only require to be boiled in a plain way. The French haricots--put a pint in two quarts of cold water, add one ounce of butter, and boil very gently for two hours, or till tender, let it get cold and make your salad. For lentils proceed the same as haricots.

NO. 77.--BOUILLABAISSE ANGLICISED.

The fish I would recommend in England for that far-famed dish would be red mullet, whiting, and barble, or a small turbot, all cut up crosswise, in pieces of about two ounces to a quarter of a pound each; slice up two large onions, place them in a good-sized stewpan, large enough to contain your fish all at the bottom--a flat wide pan is preferable. Add to this two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and fry the onions of a pale brown colour; next place the pieces of fish in the pan, cover them with warm water, only just to the depth of the contents. To each pound of fish, sprinkle about half a teaspoonful of salt, or a little more, a quarter that quantity of pepper, half a bay leaf, the flesh of half a lemon, without pips or rind, cut in dice; cut also two tomatos in dice, having extracted the seed, add a glass or two of sherry or light wine, a few peppercorns, and half a clove of garlic, instead of four, as done at Marseilles, as mentioned at page 61; set on a fierce fire, and boil very fast from ten to twelve minutes. By this time the liquor should be reduced to a third of its original quantity; add a small portion of saffron, according to taste, a tablespoonful of fresh chopped parsley; allow all to boil one minute longer, and remove from the fire, for it is then ready for dishing up. (For which process see page 61.)

_Second-class Bouillabaisse._--Use gurnet, plaice, soles, &c. Bouillabaisse may be made also of fresh-water fish, such as perch, tench, trout, and pike, proceeding precisely as above; if the broth is required for an invalid, omit the wine and some of the seasoning, according to the order of the doctor.

NO. 78.--SOYER’S CRIMEAN CUP A LA WYNDHAM.

Thinly peel the rind of half an orange, put it into a bowl with a tablespoonful of crushed sugar, and macerate with the ladle for a minute; then add one large wine-glass of Maraschino, half one of Cognac, half one of Curaçoa. Mix well together, pour in two bottles of soda-water, and one of champagne, during which time work it up and down with the punch ladle, and it is ready.

Half a pound of Wenham Lake ice, if to be procured, is a great improvement.

NO. 79.--SOYER’S BALAKLAVA NECTAR.

Thinly peel the rind of half a lemon, shred it fine, and put it in a punch-bowl; add 2 tablespoonfuls of crushed sugar and the juice of 2 lemons, the half of a small cucumber sliced thin with the peel on; toss it up several times, then add 2 bottles of soda-water, 2 of claret, 1 of champagne, stir well together and serve.

NO. 80.--PIERCE’S CLARET AND CHAMPAGNE CUP A LA BRUNOW.

This gentleman, whose excellent and useful book I have quoted in the body of this work, has favoured me with the following claret and champagne cup, which ought, from its excellency, to be called, the nectar of the Czar, as it is so highly appreciated in Russia, where for many years it has enjoyed a high reputation amongst the aristocracy of the Muscovite empire.

To three bottles of claret, take two-thirds of a pint of Curaçoa, one pint of sherry, half ditto of brandy, two wine-glasses of ratafia, three oranges, and one lemon, cut in slices; some sprigs of green balm, ditto of borage, a small piece of rind of cucumber, two bottles of German Seltzer-water, three ditto of soda-water; stir this together, and sweeten with capillaire or pounded sugar until it ferments, let it stand one hour, strain it, and ice it well; it is then fit for use.

The same for Champagne Cup.--Champagne instead of claret; noyeau instead of ratafia.

This quantity is for an evening party of forty persons. For a smaller number reduce the proportions.

SAUCES.

1.--MELTED BUTTER.

Put 2oz. of butter in a stew-pan holding about a quart, and 2oz. of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper; mix together with a spoon till forming a thick paste, add a pint of cold water, place all on a fire, stir continually; take the pan off the fire when it simmers; add another of fresh butter in it, stir till melted; it is then ready for use. A little grated nutmeg and a drop of vinegar is an improvement. This sauce being the base of so many others, requires attention in making, and as flour will sometimes be stronger than at others, and likely to make it too thin or too thick, take for a rule that the proper thickness when done ought to form a transparent coating over the back of the spoon.

2.--BEURRE A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL, OR HOTEL KEEPER’S BUTTER.

Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a spoonful of salt, ditto of pepper, two of chopped parsley, the juice of a middle-sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar), and a little grated nutmeg; mix well together, and keep in a cool place till required. This is excellent with kidneys and all broiled meats. Nutmeg may be omitted.

3.--ANCHOVY BUTTER, OR BEURRE D’ANCHOIX.

Take 6 anchovies from a bottle, scrape and wash them, pound and pulp them, or bruise them on a board; mix 6oz. of fresh butter, pass through a sieve, and use when required. Keep the sauce in a cold place.

4.--CHERVIL AND TARRAGON BUTTER.

To 2oz. of butter add a teaspoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon; add salt, pepper, a little cayenne, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, or the juice of half a lemon.

5.--PIMENTO, OR CHILI BUTTER.

For 2oz. of butter put a teaspoonful of chilies chopped fine, 1 of parsley, a scrape of garlic as large as a pea; add to it half a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon; mix well.

6.--SHALOT BUTTER.

Put a quarter of a pound of butter and a teaspoonful of chopped shalot in a dish, a little cayenne, salt, pepper, half a teaspoonful of mustard, the juice of a lemon; mix together.

7.--BLACK BUTTER, OR BEURRE NOIR.

Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan, set it on the fire till it acquires a brownish colour, throw in about 20 parsley leaves, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper; boil together one minute. It is also excellent with boiled mackerel and skate.

8.--ONION SAUCE, OR SAUCE A LA TRIPE.

Peel and cut 6 onions in slices, put them in a stewpan with 2oz. of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in pulp, stirring now and then, to prevent getting brown; add a tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till of a proper thickness. This sauce should be a little thicker than melted butter.

9.--CURRY SAUCE.

Peel and cut 2 middling-sized onions in slices, 1 apple, cut in dice, and an ounce of bacon; put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter; put it on the fire and fry gently for five or six minutes; add 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 of curry powder, moisten with a pint and a half of milk, add half a teaspoonful of salt, and 1 of sugar; boil till rather thick; pass through a sieve, and serve with any article requiring curry sauce.

10.--BREAD SAUCE.

Put in a stewpan 4 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, a quarter of one of salt, an eighth of pepper, 6 pepper corns; peel a small onion, cut it in four, add it to the crumbs, with half a pint of milk and half an ounce of butter. Boil for ten minutes, and you will have an excellent sauce. Add more milk if requisite.

11.--MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE.

Mix 2oz. of maître d’hôtel butter to half a pint of hot melted butter sauce, and shake, and when the butter is melted it is ready.

12.--RELISHING SAUCE,

For broiled bones, fowls, meat, fish, &c. &c.

Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with 1 of Chili vinegar, 1 of common vinegar, 3 of water, 2 of mushroom ketchup, 2 of Harvey’s sauce, 1 of anchovies; add to it a pint of melted butter, as receipt No. 1; let it simmer until it adheres to the back of the spoon; add half a teaspoonful of sugar; it is then ready for use. The many ingredients found in this are always to be obtained in every tavern.

13.--TOMATO SAUCE.

Cut in dice 2oz. of lean ham or bacon, put either in a stewpan, with 2oz. of butter, a sliced onion, a few sprigs of parsley, 4 peppercorns, and 1 bay-leaf; fry on the fire till getting slightly brown; add in then about 2lb. of fresh tomatoes, cut across, lightly extract the seed; let them stew about fifteen minutes, or till in pulp; add to it 2 tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well; then about a pint of broth or milk, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, one of sugar, a sprinkle of cayenne, boil all ten minutes; pass through a sieve or colander; put them back again in the stewpan; give another boil, it is then ready for use when required. A tablespoonful of ketchup may be added; also a piece of glaze, if handy.

14.--SEMI-SULTANA.

Add 3 tablespoonfuls to 1 pint of thin melted butter; boil a few minutes; it is then ready.

15.--PICCALILLY SAUCE.

Cut in slices, or in small dice, 2oz. of mixed pickles, called piccalilly, add it to half a pint melted butter, with 2 tablespoonfuls of liqueur, and use when required.

16.--BROWNING FOR SAUCES.

Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over a moderate fire for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually, until quite black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heat will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use.

17.--NEW MAYONNAISE SAUCE.

Put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic or savoury jelly upon ice in a stew-pan, which keep whisking until becoming a white froth, then add half a pint of salad oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, by degrees--first oil and then vinegar, continually whisking until it forms a white smooth sauce, to all appearance like a cream; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little sugar; whisk it a little more, and it is ready to serve; it is usually dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with. The advantage of this sauce (which is more delicate than any other) is, that you may dress it to any height you like, and it will remain so for a long time; if the temperature is not too hot, it will remain hours without melting or appearing greasy.

NO. 18.--MUSSULMAN SAUCE.

Put in a pint stew-pan two yolks of eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, the juice of a middling-sized lemon; put on a slow fire, and stir round quickly till the whole forms a thick rich sauce; it is then ready for using. This must be done extremely quick, else it will turn to oil; two minutes will do it. If too thick, add a drop of milk.

19.--TOMATOES, AMERICAN WAY.

Cut the tomatoes in two, leaving the seeds and juice in; cut a middling-sized onion in dice, pass it in butter till slightly browned; add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and sufficient bread-crumbs to thicken them; stew gently for twenty minutes, and serve with roast meat or poultry.

_Bread Crumbs._--Take a piece of the crumb of a stale loaf, not too hard, put it in a cloth, bruise it with your hand well, till it falls in crumbs; pass it through either a wire sieve or colander, and use when required.

20.--HOW TO MELT FAT.

Take 3 or 4lbs. of either beef or mutton suet, cut in small dice; put in a stewpan, with half a pint of water; place on the fire to melt, stirring now and then; when the suet turns to a light yellow colour, pour it through a colander, which you have already placed in a basin, press the suet with the back of a spoon to extract the oil of the fat; it is then ready for use, and will keep a long time without spoiling; you may fry many times with the same.

21.--CHOPPING OF HERBS, PARSLEY, CHERVIL, &C.

This may appear a very simple thing to do well, yet it is often done badly, by which the flavour is lost. The herbs should be well washed and dried, and then the leaves taken in the left hand, pressing upon them with your fingers, and chop as fine as possible, not by placing the point of the knife on the board, and raising it and letting it fall, but with a good sharp cut, so that they are cut, not pressed. Onions should be peeled, and cut in halves lengthwise, and then with a thin knife cut each half in slices, leaving them joined at the root; again cut into slices contrariwise, and then from top to bottom; thus having cut into very small squares, chop it with both hands with the knife. You may also wash them. When half-chopped, press them in a cloth, and chop them still finer, and use when required. Proceed the same for shalots.

RECEIPTS FOR THE NEEDY.

Having promised a friend, when first I commenced this work, that I would insert in its pages a number of receipts for the poor, I fulfil my obligation by re-publishing some receipts which I first brought out in the year of the famine, 1847; and with all the intention I had of still further simplifying them I find their improvement an impossibility. I have, however, withdrawn some receipts of dishes, which were only applicable to that period, and I have at the same time introduced a few new ones, which I feel confident will tend to the comfort of humble families.

In making the receipts Nos. 1 and 2 public, I did not suppose that they would meet with the entire approbation of the nation, particularly by those who imagine that nothing can be good except plenty of animal food is used for the subsistence of man. I shall not enter into a culinary digression to prove it, but I am so satisfied of the _failure_ of the quantity of nourishment generally obtained by those who cannot make anything good, even with plenty, for want of having the practical judgment, that I make bold to affirm, that the little animal substance I recommend, if closely followed, will produce all the nourishment requisite when amalgamated in the way described.

As regards the peelings and ends of vegetables which I use in my receipts, it is a well-known fact, that the exterior of every vegetable, roots in particular, contains more flavour than the interior of it; which is my reason for recommending only the washing well of those vegetables before they are cut for use, thereby increasing the vegetable produce of the country, and using that which has hitherto only increased the “_malaria_” of our courts and alleys by its decomposition.

Having thus explained my reasons, I now give publicity to my receipts for making soups and other dishes in this form; which I trust will prove useful to the benevolent and the whole laborious and industrious population of the county, and produce economy in all charitable institutions, and comfort in every cottage.

Almost all the productions of nature can be made available, and produce wholesome and nutritious food for man. The following is a short list, taking them in rotation, according to the quantity of nutriment they contain:--Beef, mutton, venison, pork, veal, lamb, hare, rabbits, bacon, lard, dripping, butter, oil: _of farinaceous substances_,[38] Indian corn, wheat, rice, barley, rye, buck-wheat, oats, peas, beans, lentils: of _vegetables and roots_--yams, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, turnips, carrots, mangel wurzel, onions, leeks, green peas, cauliflowers, celery, kelp, Irish moss, dillisk, French beans, greens, spinach, sorrel, salads of all kinds: _of condiments_--as salt, pepper, cayenne, curry, chilies, mustard, allspice, mace, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, &c.: _of herbs_--savory, parsley, mint, thyme, marjoram, basil, bay-leaf, and all sorts, both culinary and medicinal, or their essences, all of which, when properly blended with food, add to its nourishing qualities; but the grand secret is, to obtain from the above all the nutriment they possess, which is done by following my receipts, and reducing the animal and vegetable substances to a glaze, and mixing it with the farinaceous, and thereby obtaining a palatable and agreeable food, and economizing the productions of nature to an immense extent; for, by the system at present adopted, more than fifty per cent. of the animal and vegetable productions are lost, and the nutriment from the farinaceous ingredients is rendered less, in consequence of being unpalatable. In my visits to the different charitable institutions of this city, I have been surprised at the want of knowledge manifested in making of soups. In some parishes, I found 100 pounds of meat, cut into pieces of a quarter of a pound each, put into 100 gallons of water, at twelve o’clock of one day, to be boiled until twelve o’clock the next day; by such proceedings the osmazome of the meat is lost by evaporation from the boiler, and only the gelatine and fibrine is left; the former has been proved by a medical board, instituted at Paris, for the purpose of inquiring into the subject, to contain no nutriment whatever, and the latter contains about the same as a piece of dry wood. What would be said of a cook who would put a quarter of a pound of meat, or even a piece weighing thirty pounds, to roast before a large fire for twenty-four hours? What nutriment would it contain at the end of that period? My principle is easily illustrated by putting twelve onions into a gallon of water, and boiling them for as many hours; no smell arises from it; but cut the half of one, and fry it, and the perfume will be diffused over the whole house: thus I extract the aroma of every ingredient which I employ, and any one carefully following the receipts will produce a palatable and nourishing food.

The old plan of soaking farinaceous ingredients is not bad, but in many instances it cannot be practised, in which case I would recommend that peas be put into soft boiling water,[39] and that the ebullition does not cease until the peas are reduced to a pulp. Indian meal must also be put into boiling water, and be well boiled for two hours. Rice and barley may be put into cold water, and be boiled until they can be easily mashed between the fingers; the length of time depends upon their quality.--All kinds of food made of farinaceous ingredients, as Indian meal, peas, rice, &c., increase in quantity when made the day previous, and require more water when warmed up.

It will be perceived that I have omitted all kinds of spice except in those dishes which are intended expressly for them, as I consider they only flatter the appetite and irritate the stomach, and make it crave for more food; my object being not to create an appetite but to satisfy it; and when those dishes in which spice is introduced are given to the poor, it should only be done by the advice of the medical man; but in those cases where they have been accustomed to have them, they must be reduced by degrees until their taste is brought round to that point most conducive to health.

NO. 1.--FOR TWO GALLONS.

Two ounces of dripping 0½ Quarter of a pound of solid meat, at 4d. per lb. (cut into dice one inch square) 1 Quarter pound of onions, sliced thin Quarter pound of turnips; the peel will do, or one whole one cut into small dice 1 Two ounces of leeks; the green tops will do, sliced thin Three ounces of celery Three quarters of a pound of common flour 1 Half a pound of pure barley, or one pound of Scotch 1½ Three ounces of salt } Quarter of an ounce of brown sugar } 0¼ Fuel 0¾ Two gallons of water 0 -- 6

I first put two ounces of dripping into a saucepan (capable of holding two gallons of water), with a quarter of a pound of leg of beef without bones,[40] cut into square pieces of about an inch; and two middling-sized onions, peeled and sliced; I then set the saucepan over a coal fire, and stirred the contents round for a few minutes with a wooden (or iron) spoon until fried lightly brown. I had then ready washed the peeling of two turnips, fifteen green leaves or tops of celery, and the green part of two leeks; (the whole of which, I must observe, are always thrown away.) Having cut the above vegetables into small pieces, I threw them into the saucepan with the other ingredients, stirring them occasionally over the fire for another ten minutes; then added one quart of cold water, and three quarters of a pound of common flour, and half a pound of pearl barley, mixing all well together; I then added seven quarts of hot water, seasoned with three ounces of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown sugar, stirred occasionally until boiling, and allowed it to simmer very gently for three hours; at the end of which time I found the barley perfectly tender. The above soup has been tasted by numerous noblemen, members of parliament, and several ladies who have lately visited my kitchen department, and who have considered it very good and nourishing.

This soup will keep several days when made as above described; but I must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, but in rather a flat vessel, where the air could act freely upon it. Stir it now and then, until nearly cold: or otherwise the next day it will be in a state of fermentation: this does not denote the weakness of the soup, because the same evil exists with the very strongest of stock, or sauce, if not stirred, or if confined in a warm place--(a fact known to every first-rate cook).

The expenses make it come to three farthings per quart in London; but, as almost everything can be had at less cost in the country, the price of this soup will be still more reduced. In that case a little additional meat might be used, and by giving away a small portion of bread or biscuit, better support would be given to the poor at a trifling cost, and no one, it is to be hoped, hereafter, would hear of the dreadful calamity of starvation.

The same for one hundred gallons, to be made in the boilers, such as are given by the different relief committees, or in any other vessel, either iron or copper, in general use.

Twelve pounds of solid meat, at 4d. per lb., cut into pieces one inch square, or sixteen pounds with bones, at 3d. per lb. 4 0 Three pounds two ounces of dripping 1 0 Twelve pounds of onions, sliced thin 0 8 Six pounds of leeks, ditto } Six pounds of celery, ditto } 3 1 Eight pounds of turnips, washed only, and cut into } half an inch square } Thirty-seven pounds and a half of flour, seconds 7 0 Twenty-five pounds of pearl barley previously soaked 6 9 Nine pounds of salt 0 3 One pound seven ounces of sugar 0 9 -------- £1 1 8

Have ready a spatula, or a piece of board the shape of a cricket-bat, about six inches wide, tapering towards the top as a handle (which must be from one foot and a half to two feet above the surface of the vessel), to stir with; take twelve pounds of solid meat, or sixteen pounds with the bones (legs or clods of beef are excellent for the purpose, but any kind of edible meat, from beef to doe venison will do), cut in pieces about one inch square; put the dripping[41] in the boiler; light the fire; when the fat is melted, add the onions: fry ten minutes, stirring it all the time; add the vegetables and the meat; fry for twenty minutes, or until a thick glaze is produced; then add the salt and sugar, and four gallons of cold water; then add the flour; keep stirring quickly, until quite smooth; add the barley, and fill by degrees with hot water;[42] boil for three hours, or until the barley is quite tender, and serve.[43]

In case either the barley or rice does not produce the thickness required (as those ingredients may differ in quality), then add, if too thin, a few pounds of flour or oatmeal, previously mixed with cold water, to make it in a liquid batter, and pour it in when boiling about twenty minutes before serving it out. But the proper thickness is easily ascertained when the soup hangs lightly on the back of the spatula or ladle, and near the consistence of a thin stirabout.

NO. 2.--FOR TWO GALLONS.

Quarter of a pound of beef, at 4d., cut into pieces of one inch square 1 Two ounces of dripping, or melted suet 0½ Quarter of a pound of turnips or carrots, cut into dice half an inch square 0¼ Four drops of essences 0¼ One and a half pound of maize flour 3 Three ounces of salt } Quarter ounce of brown sugar } 0¼ One teaspoonful of black pepper, ground fine } Fuel 0¾ -- 6

Take two ounces of either dripping, American lard, or suet, to which add the turnips or carrots; fry for ten minutes, add one quart of cold water and the meal, well mixing, and moisten by degrees with seven quarts of hot water; boil for two hours, and season with three ounces of salt, one quarter ounce of brown sugar, one teaspoonful of black pepper, _two drops_ of essence of garlic, _one drop_ of essence of mint, one drop of essence of celery; stir quickly, and serve directly.

RECEIPT NO. 3.

No. 2. 6 As No. 2--and add one pound of potatoes 1 -- 7

For those who have the chance of procuring a few potatoes once a week, they may be used with advantage in the following manner:--

Having prepared the soup according to Receipt No. 2, when nearly done, wash a pound of potatoes, pick out the black spots, if any, and cut them in very small dice; put them into the soup to boil for twenty minutes, or a little longer, until done, and the soup is ready, and will strongly taste of potato; the short time of ebullition preserving all the aroma of that inconstant root.

Having promised to make my receipts public, for the benefit of the laborious classes of society, as well as for the poor, I think that if a man could treat his family once a week with a food called potato soup, each member of it, who had previously fed on that root, and who are _now_ nearly deprived of that food, would worship the day of the week when such a luxury should be displayed on their humble table.

RECEIPT NO. 4.

Quarter of a pound of bacon 1½ One ounce of dripping 0¼ Quarter of a pound of onions } Quarter of a pound of turnips or carrots } Two ounces of leeks and celery } 1 Quarter ounce of mint, shred fine } Pound and a quarter of yellow peas 3½ Half-pound of common flour 1 Two ounces and a half of salt } Half ounce of sugar } 0¼ -- 7½

Have a quarter of a pound of fat bacon[44] cut into dice, peel and slice two good-sized onions, or three small ones, and put both into a stewpan, with one ounce of dripping; fry them gently until lightly brown, then add two ounces of turnips, two ounces of carrots, and one ounce of leeks, and one ounce of celery; cut them thin and slanting (but, as I have before observed, any kind of vegetable will answer the purpose, if the same proportion is used); fry for ten minutes, and fill up with seven quarts of water, and, when boiling, add a pound and a quarter of split peas, and let them simmer for two or three hours, until reduced to a pulp, which depends on the quality of the pea; then add two ounces of salt, half an ounce of sugar, quarter of an ounce of mint, mix one half pound of flour in twelve ounces of water, to a thin batter, pour into the soup, stir it well, boil one quarter of an hour, and serve.

NO. 5.--MEAGRE PEA SOUP.

This is the same as the former, with the exception that the bacon and dripping are omitted, and oil or butter used in their stead. Buttermilk could with advantage be used; in which case, add three ounces of salt. Although this food is entirely deprived of animal substance, yet the farinaceous ingredients will act generously on the digestive organs, particularly to a stomach which has suffered from want of food.

NO. 6.--THE FISHERMAN’S FOOD FOR THE COAST.

Four pounds of fish 4 Three ounces of salt } One half-ounce of sugar } 0¼ One quarter-ounce of pepper } Bay-leaf, thyme 0½ Two pounds of oatmeal 4 -- 8¾

Cut four pounds of fresh fish of any kind in large pieces; put it in your pan, with three ounces of salt, half an ounce of sugar, a little pepper, two bay leaves, a little thyme, one quart of water, and let it stew gently; mix two pounds of oatmeal with seven quarts of lukewarm water, and pour it over the fish; stir it gently, so as not to break it too much; let it boil twenty minutes, and it is done.

A red herring or dried salt fish, previously soaked, is exceedingly good to make this food; but omit the salt if all salt fish is used.

NO. 7.--CURRY FISH.

Four onions, sliced } One bay-leaf } 0½ Two apples, sliced } Quarter of a pound of fat 1½ Three ounces of salt } Half an ounce of sugar } 0¼ One pound of rice 2 An ounce of curry powder 0¾ Six pounds of fish 6 --- 11

Put into a stew-pan four onions, a small bunch of bay-leaf, thyme, and savory; two apples, if convenient, with a quarter pound of fat, three ounces of salt, and quarter ounce of sugar, and fry for fifteen minutes. Put one pound of rice, and four quarts of water, and boil till tender: add one ounce of curry powder, mixed in a little water. Cut up six pounds of cheap fish into pieces of the size of an egg; add to the above, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes, according to the kind of fish. Salt and dried fish, previously soaked, cooked in this way, is excellent, omitting the salt.

NO. 8.--FOOD FOR THE COAST.

Three haddocks 3 Two pounds of salt } Quarter of an ounce of sugar } 0½ -- 3½

Take three middle-sized haddocks; remove the gills and interior, and cut open; rub them with two pounds of salt, a quarter of an ounce of sugar; let them remain twenty-four hours, turning occasionally; pass a twig through the eyes, and hang them in a cool, well ventilated place, until rather dry.

Conger eel cut into slices one inch thick, halibut, plaice, mackerel, treated in the same manner (if large they must be crimped) will keep for some time; they can he boiled, baked, broiled, or fried. A pound haddock will take twelve minutes broiling, from fifteen to twenty frying, twenty minutes baking or boiling.

NO. 9.--SAVOURY RICE FOOD.

Six pounds of bones 3 Ten quarts of water } Three ounces of salt } Bay-leaf, &c. } Two onions, cut thin } 1 Half an ounce of sugar } Half a pound of vegetables, cut small } Half a pound of oatmeal 1 Pound of rice 2½ Two ounces of dripping 0½ -- 8 The bones can be sold after using for 2 -- 6

Having saved the bones of the previous day, a very good food may be made as follows:--Take six pounds of bones, which break into small pieces, and boil in ten quarts of water for four hours; having added three ounces of salt, a small bunch of thyme, bay-leaf and savory, put into a stew-pan the fat, and two onions cut thin, half a pound of vegetables, as carrots, turnips, celery, &c., cut very thin, half ounce of sugar; put it on the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally; add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix well; moisten with two gallons of the stock from the bones, add one and a quarter pound of rice, previously soaked; boil till tender, and serve.

NO. 10.--RICE PANADA.

One pound of rice 2 Three-quarters of an ounce of sugar } Two ounces of salt } 0½ One pound of flour 2 Half an ounce of curry powder at 6d., or a quarter of a pound of treacle 0½ -- 5

Boil a pound of rice (previously washed) in one gallon of water, for one hour; add three quarters of an ounce of sugar, two ounces of salt; mix with some cold water, to make a thin paste, one pound of flour or oatmeal, and half an ounce of curry powder; add it to the rice, and boil for twenty minutes, and serve.

Should it be preferred sweet, add a quarter of a pound of treacle instead of the curry.

This will make ten pounds of solid food.

NO. 11.--PEAS PANADA.

Quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork 2 Two ounces of dripping 0½ Four ounces of onions or leeks 0¼ One pound and a half of peas 3 Half an ounce of salt } Half a pound of Indian meal } 1 -- 6¾

Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork into small dice, put it into a stew-pan with two onions or tops of leeks; well wash, and cut them thin, and fry ten minutes; add one pound and a half of peas, half ounce of salt, quarter ounce of sugar, and one gallon of water, boil till it becomes a purée or pulp, then add sufficient oatmeal, common flour, or Indian meal, to make it thick, and boil thirty minutes.[45] This food is very strengthening, and might be made several days previous to using; it will keep well--if no vegetable is to be obtained, a small quantity of essence of herbs would improve it.

NO. 12.--PEAS PANADA, SWEET.

One pound of peas } Half an ounce of salt } 2 An ounce of dripping 0½ Half a pound of Indian meal 1 Quarter pound of treacle 1 -- 4½

Boil in one gallon of water, one pound of peas, add half an ounce of salt, one ounce of dripping or melted suet, mix with it half a pound of Indian meal, boil for two hours, stirring it well, add a quarter of a pound of treacle; this can be eaten hot or cold.

NO. 13.--CHEESE STIRABOUT.

One pound of Indian meal 2 Three ounces of salt 0¼ Half a pound of cheese 2 Quarter ounce of mustard 0½ -- 4¾

Put two gallons of water in a stewpan, and boil; take some Indian meal, the quantity depends on the quality, and add it gradually to the water, stirring it all the time so that it should be quite smooth and thick: add three ounces of salt; simmer on the side of the fire for two hours, taking care that it does not burn; add half a pound of strong cheese, broken small or grated, with a little mustard: give it a boil and serve.

Or put it into baking tins, allow it to get cold, cut it into pieces, which fry or bake.

NO. 14.--INDIAN MEAL POULLENTA.

One pound of meal 2 Quarter of a pound of sausage meat 1 -- 3

Prepare the meal as above (which must be very thick) without the cheese; place it in baking tins; place a thin layer of sausage meat or black pudding upon it, and cover it with more of the meal; bake it for twenty minutes and serve.

This is an excellent and cheap dish, and fit for the tables of the wealthy if a strong gravy is poured over it when served.

NO. 15.--SAVOURY HOMINY.

Two quarts or four pounds of Indian corn 8 Quarter of a pound of dripping 1 Two onions } Three ounces of salt } 0½ -- 9½

Take two quarts of Indian corn and soak it for twenty-four hours in water, put it into a pot containing two gallons of boiling water and simmer for five hours; draw off the water, if any, add a quarter of a pound of dripping, two onions, sliced thin, three ounces of salt, put it on the fire for twenty minutes, keep stirring it all the time, so that it does not burn, and serve. This will produce two gallons of excellent food. The purée made from the whole corn, as above, is much sweeter and more wholesome than that made from the ground meal. The great mistake at present in the use of Indian meal is, that it is not cooked enough, it being used similar to flour; it should, on the contrary, be well mixed with boiling water and allowed to simmer for never less than two hours; it then loses its raw taste and increases in quantity.

NO. 16.--ST. PATRICK’S SOUP.

One pound of meat at 4d. 4 Two ounces of dripping 0½ Vegetables 1 Salt, sugar Flour 1 Spice } Dillisk[46] } 0½ -- 7

Take one pound of meat without bones, and cut into small pieces, put into a stew-pan two ounces of dripping, one ounce of leeks, one ounce of celery, one ounce of carrots, two ounces of turnips, and fry for ten minutes; then add the meat with two ounces of salt, half ounce of sugar, and fry until a thick glaze is produced; then add one quart of cold water and half a pound of flour; then add two ounces of dillisk, well washed and chopped fine; a little mixed spice and pepper. Boil three-quarters of an hour, and serve.

NO. 17.--CHEAP OYSTER PORRIDGE.

On many parts of the coast oysters can be had for three shillings per thousand; they can be made, without much trouble, into a nourishing and palatable food, by putting two dozen into an earthen pan, with the liquor from them, and add three spoonfuls of flour; place it on the fire, stirring them round; add a little salt and pepper and they are done. This can be added to the porridge made of the Indian corn and rice, or in the other receipts, where fish is used; a little lard is an improvement; also a bay-leaf, mint, and an onion sliced.

Mussels and cockles can be used in the same way in proportion of two dozen to the quart.

NO. 18.--CABBAGE STIRABOUT.

Well wash two pounds of cabbage, take out the stalks, and cut it slanting in slices; put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of dripping, lard, or butter; half ounce of salt, quarter ounce of pepper, one ounce of sugar, put it on the fire for ten minutes, stir it well, then cover it with water and stew for twenty minutes, and mix it with stirabout, previously made of Indian corn meal.

Young nettles done in this way are exceedingly wholesome, and any kind of green vegetables can be cooked in this manner.

NO. 19.--CONGER EELS.

Put a slice of about two pounds weight into a saucepan, or earthen pot, with two onions sliced thin; a small quantity of dillisk, well washed and chopped fine, quarter ounce of salt, and a little pepper, add two quarts of water, and stew for one hour; ten minutes before using take out the fish and thicken with a little flour, previously mixed with some water; boil ten minutes, pour it over the fish, and serve--if onions or dillisk are not to be had, use half a pound of any vegetable cut fine: _halibut and similar fish_ can be cooked in the same manner.

RECEIPT NO. 20.

Take three dozen of mussels, wash them, and place them in a stewing pan over the fire for five minutes, so that the shell is open; take them off, and remove the upper shell: sometimes a small crab will be found in them, which remove, as they are rather unwholesome; replace them, with their liquor and bottom shell, in the pan, add a spoonful of flour, mixed with some butter or lard, and a spoonful of chopped parsley; stir it in, and stew for five minutes, and serve.

For a large quantity have ready the large boiler, put therein four pounds of lard or butter, and four pounds of sliced onions, and fry for five minutes; have ready two pails full of mussels with their liquor out of their shell, which put in the boiler, with one pound of salt, two ounces of pepper, two ounces of sugar, and two pounds of chopped parsley; have ready two pounds of flour, mixed with water, to the consistence of good cream, and put it into the boiler; boil for ten to fifteen minutes, stir it gently with a wooden spatula, and serve; if not required meagre, use instead of the flour and water the same quantity of boiling stock, from the bones of meat, or from cow-heel, well stewed, parts of which, cut small, can be added: any flavour of herbs may be given, if liked.

NO. 21.--THE POOR MAN’S POTATO PIE.

Wash and peel six pounds of good potatoes, cut in slices, take one pound of fat mutton or beef cut into small dice, mix the whole with pepper and salt, cover with 51 paste, and bake one hour and half, and serve.

In all the foregoing receipts, a greater quantity of meat may be used by those who can afford it, as I am a great advocate that every trade should flourish and that wealth should support luxury. However great the quantity of meat that may be used, no longer time should be used in cooking it. Take the same proportion of the receipts for any larger quantity.

ANECDOTES, ETC.

THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE’S HEAD-QUARTERS PRIOR TO THE BATTLE OF INKERMANN.

His Royal Highness’s quarters were situate about one hundred and thirty yards to the left of the windmill on the Woronzoff Road. Five parallel bell-tents were occupied--one by the duke, the others by Colonel Macdonald, Colonel Tyrwhitt, Major Clifton, and Dr. Gibson, his staff. M. Comte, _chef de cuisine_ to the duke, and to whose devotion to all who came in his way and needed help while in the Crimea I before have had in this work occasion to allude, has since related to me that on the morning of the Battle of Inkermann he got up at three o’clock, the weather being chilly and damp and a thick heavy fog surrounding the camp, and having lit his fire he made himself some tea, when, about five, as he was quietly smoking his pipe _à la bivouacaire_, within range of the fire (of his open-air battery) the duke came up to him, exclaiming, “Halloo! M. Comte, you are about early this morning.”

“Yes, your Highness,” he replied; “the fact is, the weather is so cold and damp, that for the life of me I could not sleep, therefore I turned out and made myself a cup of tea.”

“You are right,” said the duke, warming his feet by the fire; “the weather is truly wretched.”

Hardly had the duke said these words, than several volleys of musketry and loud shouts reverberated through the camp, something like the growls of thousands of wild animals. Leaving no doubt that it was an attack of the enemy, the duke immediately left me and ran for his horse, and was soon mounted, and started alone towards the scene of action; a few minutes after, his staff followed in the wake of their gallant leader. So sudden was his departure, that, having made a bowl of tea which I had intended for him, though I ran after him with it in my hand, his Highness started without partaking of it. Not till five o’clock in the evening did the duke return, his horse wounded, and a bullet having passed through his coat-sleeve without injuring him. Major Clifton had been wounded in the cheek during the battle, and came back to quarters during the day to have his wound dressed by Dr. Gibson. On returning once more to the field of battle, he had his horse shot under him. When he again returned he was seen carrying the saddle of his defunct animal on his back. At the return of the staff in the evening, the outside of the duke’s head-quarters had the appearance of a field hospital, M. Comte having taken on himself to supply refreshment to all the wounded who were brought to his nursing care. I have heard that no less than six or seven hundred had been supplied with succour in the course of two or three days by his Highness’s faithful _chef de cuisine_.

On the 11th of the same month, and while the duke was staying on board the _Resolution_, in the harbour of Balaklava, our heroic _chef de cuisine_ was ordered to remain in possession of the commandant’s house in Balaklava, awaiting the return of his royal master, and also having under his charge no less than fifteen female prisoners of war, whom he was charged by the authorities to watch over with the aid of sentries, as it was thought that these female Amazons might fire Balaklava. Amongst them was the Governor’s wife and children. All the men being ordered out of the establishment, the Governor’s lady, with a smile on her lips, in very good French, inquired of M. Comte if two gentlemen present would be allowed to remain, which favour, after serious consideration on the part of the new Governor _pro tem._, was granted, these gentlemen being of the advanced ages respectively of three and five years. “Never did I feel a greater relief,” said M. Comte, “than when these lady prisoners were taken out of my charge, as each day discovered some fresh attempts at conspiracy.” It was during the governorship of this semi-warrior that the dreadful storm took place in the Bay of Balaklava, and uprooted the beautiful avenue of poplar trees which ornamented his capital, and which, to his sorrow, much disfigured the prettiest part of his dominions.

On a previous occasion, just after landing, before the battle of the Alma, this indefatigable culinary artist, who by the bye is an old traveller, was seen, under a heavy shower of rain, cooking beneath the wings of an open umbrella, preparing a dish of fried croquettes, at a time when the duke himself did not anticipate such a delicacy. The umbrella was used to stop the rain falling in the pan, which would have prevented the completion of this dainty dish, water and fat being irreconcilable foes.

Early the following morning an alarm took place, when our warrior-cook deserted his umbrella, and shouldered his gun in his right as commander-in-chief of his own battery (_de cuisine_). The moon was faintly shining, and with its rays appeared the duke, who indistinctly seeing some one, exclaimed, “_Who’s there?_” when M. Comte replied, “It is me, your Highness. Having heard the alarm, I considered your tent and my battery could not be too well guarded, so I have just taken up this musket to be on the defensive.” The duke replied, “Really, Comte, vous êtes impayable;” and immediately started with his staff to the supposed scene of action. After a few hours everything was restored to order, when Comte grounded arms, inspected his battery, and had breakfast ready to the minute as usual.

A VISIT TO THE SULTAN’S NEW PALACE OF DOLMA BATCHI.

In the month of March, 1856, I was fortunate enough to obtain an order, which I procured by great favour, to visit this huge pile of marble, prior to its final completion and occupation by his Majesty the Sultan and his harem; and although many parts of it were open to the public by ticket, yet very few visitors could boast of having seen so much of the interior as myself of this stupendous and most elegant area, where the modern houri of Mahomet were shortly to be located, they at this time still remaining in the old palace on the Bosphorus. The large room preparing for the reception of the Sultan’s favourites had but very little moveable furniture, but at the same time was most elegantly decorated. Nothing but couches were placed round the room, while the flooring was of highly-polished wood of a most tasty design; the whole of the hangings and coverings were of a rich satin of a lavender colour, with a large flowery pattern; twenty chandeliers, of immense dimensions--about seven feet in height--sprang from the ground, proudly bearing each more than one hundred wax-lights. The wall was after the Oriental fashion, which I do not much admire, here and there painted _al fresco_, representing various views of either landscape, colonnades, palaces, &c. In spite of this defect, the effect was so peculiar at the first glance, that it produced on me a most extraordinary sensation. To my surprise I found the ceiling remarkably low, but which I found, on consideration, would not appear so to its future innumerable tenants, from their habit of squatting on the floor. The effect of the light on this apartment had been tried two nights before, and the ends of the wax-lights still remained in the sockets of the chandeliers, and which, when lit, must have had a most extraordinary effect. Here for the first time I had an uninterrupted view from the interior of a harem, through the latticed windows, which are now made on an improved principle to the old Turkish style, which give you more than ever an opportunity to see from the inside without being seen, the exterior of which is also painted with views of landscapes, which are visible from the Bosphorus. At the further end of this stupendous kind of drawing-room were several apartments for the favourites, most gorgeously decorated by valuable Oriental tapestry, hanging curtains, ottomans, &c. Next I was shown a narrow corridor with three doors; I learned that these were the penitential cells for any of the naughty beauties who might need correction; however, the dungeons did not bear a very dreadful aspect. From here we went to the Sultan’s bedroom, which was gorgeously decorated with deep golden fringe and crimson velvet hangings of the richest description; the decorations of this room are almost indescribable. We then visited another room, called the Sultan’s Cabinet de Travail, where I was much struck to see it entirely fitted up in the European style, quite _à la Française_, after the style of Louis XV. Upon inquiring of my ciceroni, I learned that the whole of the furniture of the apartment had been presented to the Sultan by the Emperor of the French, Napoleon III., and I must say that the quiet, though superb, manner in which it was fitted was a most pleasant relief to me after wandering through so many gaudy and superfluously grand apartments. The Sultan had already occupied himself in this room. The carpet and table were covered with the finest red French cloth, while the ceiling was of a good elevation; in fact, the Tuileries (which I have lately visited) cannot boast a more tasty or better fitted-up apartment. The staircase leading to the harem was very striking, the lantern at the summit being covered with paintings, representing windows with pots of flowers, vases, birds, &c.; yet the whole of these, though well painted, presented quite a theatrical aspect to the really charming appearance of the marble staircase. My guide had observed to me while in the Cabinet de Travail, that he never recollected any stranger entering it before; he then showed me the chef-d’œuvres of the palace, which were the ladies’ baths--the most expensive and luxurious part of this costly palace, the bath being the greatest luxury of the Turks, the whole of them being inlaid with sapphire stone boldly carved. We then passed through the Throne Room, which I have already described in this work: it is a regular _facsimile_ of St. Sophia, but more gaudy. We then walked through the Reception Room for the ambassadors, which is simply decorated with gold and white, in the European style. On turning to the left, we came to the grand crystal staircase with its thousand jets of red light. I then begged to be shown the kitchen, which request at first I perceived was objected to by my guide, who expressed himself that it was impossible; but being armed with formidable letters, and making use of M. Roco Vido’s name, who is well known to the Sultan’s grand hatchi batchi, or chief cook, I at length prevailed on him to induct me to this pandæmonium of scientific handicraft, where between three and four hundred cooks were busily engaged manipulating the most _recherché_ dishes _à la_ Turk, many of which I had the pleasure of tasting. The appearance and bustle of the kitchen, which was quite new to me, put me more in mind of a public market than what it really was; every man-cook was dressed in the Oriental fashion, all looking very clean. The copper vessels which they use are daily tinned--which fact I learnt from the _Chef_,--and shone like so much silver. The process of the Turkish cookery, though slow, I much approve of, as the succulence and aroma of every kind of food are retained, and it is far superior to our system, everything being cooked or stewed on the top of red-hot ashes laid on slabs of stone or marble. The floor of the kitchen was rather ill-paved, and the attendants were in the habit of strewing everything on the ground not wanted for use--an untidy trick. I could trace from the interior of this monster establishment no less than twenty huge shaft chimneys sprouting out from the roof of this gastronomic temple. It was now near twelve o’clock, when a shower of tray-bearers made their appearance in the kitchen, and with the greatest celerity were loaded with heaps of dishes belonging to the first, second, and third course. I ascertained on inquiry that these were for the dinners of the ladies of the harem. White snowy-looking cloths were thrown over each tray, and they were carried, to my astonishment, to the old palace on the Bosphorus, a distance of nearly half a mile, on the bearers’ heads,--the large kitchen at the latter place having been destroyed by fire, and the Sultan’s meals only being prepared there in a private kitchen, his Majesty always dining alone; which order was instituted by Mahomed II., the story being, that that monarch had so little confidence in those around him, that he always feared they would rob him of his food while carrying it from plate to mouth. Delighted with my visit, I deposited in my cicerone’s hands the golden key, in the shape of bakschish, with which I had so successfully opened the palace door of the Sublime Porte.

THE PARISIAN KITCHEN FOR THE WORKING-CLASSES,

OR FOURNEANT DE L’IMPERATRICE

The kitchens for the working-classes are sixty-eight in number, each capable of supplying from one thousand to twelve hundred mechanics with good food, for which each one pays about two-thirds of the value received, although nothing is given gratuitously. They are attended by Sisters of Charity, and kept extremely clean, while the deficit is, I believe, made up by her Majesty the Empress and the municipality of Paris, from whom these institutions derive their name of Fourneant de l’Impératrice. The provisions are supplied from the central market of Paris, the Halle au Blé, which is under the superintendence of the Comptroller-General, M. Durand, by whom I was treated with the greatest courtesy while drawing up the report I made to his Majesty by imperial command; and I much regret that want of space prevents my giving it at full length here, although the report had chiefly a local importance. Wagons take the different articles of food early in the morning to all the establishments. These are most useful institutions, and in case of a scarcity of food, provisions could always, at a trifling expense, be dressed here for the needy. Indeed, every metropolis, and all large mercantile towns, ought to follow this excellent example, which, I believe, owes its origin to England.

THE TRAVELLING GENTLEMEN OF THE CRIMEA.

I cannot pass without notice the following little anecdote, related to me by Colonel Carleton of the Coldstreams--the principal personage connected with it. The day after the battle of Inkermann (said the gallant colonel) the field was visited by many T. G.’s, some of them contorting their optics with eye-glasses, and taking a survey of the many dead on the field, near to the spot where he was busily engaged in paying the last duty to the remains of the defunct brave; whereupon he made inquiry of one of his men if the gentlemen were known who seemingly took such an interest in the awful spectacle. He then desired them to come to him, which request, with a kind smile, they soon obeyed; but much were they disappointed when, instead of addressing them in a friendly manner, the Colonel ordered them to take their coats off and shoulder a pick and dig graves, which disagreeable task they could not avoid, as discipline was the order of the day, though very disgusting the task to our curious and no doubt wealthy pleasure-hunters. They were, the Colonel afterwards ascertained, merchants from one of our great commercial cities. When trapped, it was morning; when they finished their task, it was night. Thus our amateur gravediggers had not only a hard day’s work, but a very unpleasant one in the bargain.

THE CONSUMPTION HOSPITAL, BROMPTON.

_A Visit to the Kitchen, by Request._

While at the Reform Club, Captain Lyons, R.M., requested me to visit the kitchen of the above hospital, in the anticipation that I might be able to make some improvements in that department, if any should be requisite. The day following I went and found the place in the most perfect order, while all at once a stove of a very showy structure caught my eye, in which were placed eight or ten copper caldrons, well fixed in either iron or brick frames, each being labelled beef-tea, coffee, tea, &c. I could not but approve of the elegant appearance these utensils presented, but at the same time give my disapprobation of their having copper in use, while screwed down so tightly that but a small chance remained of their being properly tinned. In removing the lid, I remarked to the Captain that not the slightest particle of tin remained, and that therefore the cooking could not be done in any other but a highly dangerous manner. I then explained to the woman cook where the danger lay; when she quietly answered that there could be no danger, as she had each boiler cleansed two or three times a day; which of course was the root of the evil, having no doubt been the cause of the entire disappearance of the tin. In asking her how long it was since they were tinned, she replied,--“Not since she had been engaged there, nor, probably, since they had been fixed up;” when I explained to her the sad mistake in not having well tinned all such boilers, in large establishments such as this, where the utensils are in daily use, as they ought to be tinned at least once in every three months. I then made about a gallon of beef-tea with the hospital rations, in less than an hour, to which quick process she much objected, saying that she was certain the patients would not like it, as in that time it could not be thoroughly done, as she always stewed it for at least six or seven hours, by which time the meat was done to ribbons. I begged the Captain to allow several basins of my broth to be sent to the different wards to various patients, which was done, whom we afterwards visited. When the Captain inquired of one how he felt, he answered that he felt a great deal better that day, his taste having returned to him, which was a proof of the superiority of my plan over that of their cook’s--a system, I regret to say, practised in many large establishments. (For Beef-tea, see Hospital Diets.)

COPIES OF LETTERS

FROM THE MILITARY AUTHORITIES, ADDRESSED TO M. SOYER DURING HIS STAY IN TURKEY AND THE CRIMEA.

HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _August 3rd, 1855_.

DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--As you are about to leave the hospitals at Scutari for Balaklava, I think, in justice to your unremitting attention and zeal in your endeavours to improve the culinary department, it is incumbent on me, as the military commanding officer of the troops in the Bosphorus and Dardanelles, to express to you how much the sick and wounded of this army, as well as those who have their interest at heart, are indebted to you for the improvement you have made in the cooking of these establishments. Your alterations of the kitchens and stoves must add much to the economy of fuel, which is of the greatest consequence here; and your successful attempts, combined with simplicity of making such palatable beverages and soups out of so small a portion of ingredients, is highly advantageous.

Wishing you a pleasant voyage, and hoping to find the cooking in camp as much improved as the cooking here,

I am, yours ever faithfully,

(Signed) W. PAULET, _Brigadier-General_.

I am sure General Simpson will afford you every assistance in carrying out your wishes.

HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _20th Nov., 1855_.

MY DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I regret exceedingly to learn that you have been ill, and hope you are recovered by this time. When do you leave for the Crimea? I hope to have the pleasure of seeing you before you depart. The British army owes you much, and is grateful for all you have done.

Thanks to your exertions, we have at least ameliorated our military system of cookery, and we thank you sincerely for it.

Accept my best wishes, and believe me, yours truly,

H. K. STORKS,

_Brigadier-General_.

HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _March 22nd, 1856_.

MY DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I cannot allow you to leave Scutari without expressing my perfect satisfaction with all you have done to ameliorate the culinary system for our soldiers. The kitchens you have established at Scutari answer admirably, and I am satisfied that we are as much redevable, if not more so, to the cooks for the good health we now enjoy, as to the doctors.

Pray receive, my dear Monsieur Soyer, the assurance of my sentiments of kind regard.

Yours truly, H. K. STORKS, _Brigadier-General_.

To Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

SOYER’S VILLARETTE, _May 15th, 1856_.

After doubting many of your enthusiastic views as to cooking, I acknowledge that I am fairly beaten. Every one to his trade.

Yours very truly, C. A. WINDHAM, _Major-General, Commander of Staff_.

CAMP, FIRST DIVISION, _May 25th, 1856_.

MONSIEUR SOYER,--I accept, with many thanks, the portable cooking-stove you have been kind enough to present me; and I perceive it will henceforth be the means of my eating after a civilized fashion, so long as I have a coat-pocket to carry it in.

I beg your acceptance of an inkstand, made with a Russian grapeshot. It bears upon its surface the proof of having been projected during the siege, and will, therefore, serve you as a lasting reminiscence of your sojourn in the camp.

I also hope it will cause you to bear in mind the assurance of the value I attach to all the exertions and arrangements you have made to ameliorate the position of our brave soldiers, by teaching them to utilize their rations, and improve the cooking of their food--formerly so often spoiled or wasted.

Pray accept the assurance of my highest consideration.

ROKEBY.

HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _May, 1856_.

DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--Many thanks for your obliging letter of the 29th April.

I thank you for the trouble you have taken with Marshal Pelissier, and am much flattered by the cordial acknowledgment of his Excellency. Should you have occasion to see him again, pray tell him so.

I sincerely compliment you upon the success of your stoves. The British army owes you much; and I assure you we are highly sensible of the value of your devotion, and the disinterested and honourable sentiments you have displayed.

Our system of military cookery much required reform, and in introducing a new one you have rendered us immense service.

Pray accept, my dear Monsieur Soyer, the assurance of my esteem and highest consideration.

H. K. STORKS, _Brigadier-General_.

LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _June 7th, 1856_.

General Lord William Paulet, commanding Light Division, having inspected the camp cooking-stoves issued by Monsieur Soyer for trial to the ten regiments composing his division, has much pleasure in stating that they answer in every respect. They consume not a quarter so much fuel; they boil the meat more regularly, and the vegetables, and therefore make better soup; they never smoke, which is invariably the case with all barrack cook-houses. You can use them either out of doors or inside, and would prove useful in all standing camps or barracks; and may be issued to the troops according to the number required occupying a barrack, and the remainder being kept in store, they being so portable.

Lord William would like to see them in all quarters occupied by troops where the cook-houses are not good, and the saving of fuel would pay the expense.

SCUTARI BARRACKS HOSPITAL, _April 9th, 1855_.

It gives me great pleasure to testify, after visiting Monsieur Soyer’s kitchen in the above establishment, and comparing the quality and economy of the many excellent preparations made for the use of the sick, that those prepared from his formulæ are very superior to those previously supplied.

I consider, if the suggestions of Monsieur Soyer be acted on, that he will have conferred a great boon on the sick and convalescent soldier, and for such improvement will deserve the thanks of every person having feeling for the British soldier, and who desires to ameliorate his condition.

HUGH BIRT, F.R.C.S.E., _Civil Surgeon of the 1st Class to the Scutari Hospital_.

HYDER PASHA HOSPITALS, SCUTARI, _May 1st, 1855_.

This is to certify that Monsieur Soyer has, in his visits to the above hospitals, rendered a very important service, by clearly demonstrating that the dietary for the sick may, by his improved method of cooking, be greatly enhanced in value by making it, out of the usual materials, more nutritious, more palatable, and more advantageous for every purpose.

H. G. W. MACELLERY,

_1st Class S. Surgeon, Superintending Medical Officer, Hyder Pasha Hospitals_.

BALAKLAVA, _June 15th, 1855_.

MY DEAR SIR,--In reply to your letter of the 7th instant, there will be no difficulty whatever in giving to the troops occasionally salt beef and pork on the same day, should they wish it.

Trusting soon to have the pleasure of seeing you in the Crimea,

I remain, yours very truly, WILLIAM FILDER.

A. Soyer, Esq., &c. &c. &c.

_June 16th, 1855._

MY DEAR SIR,--I am much obliged to you for the trouble you have taken in my behalf, and feel confident that any arrangement entered into by you will be as excellent as the other results I have witnessed, of that ability and energy by which our poor fellows have so much benefited. I will deliver your message to Colonel Daniell.

Believe me, my dear Sir, yours very truly, J. W. CARLETON.

_3rd September, 1855._

MY DEAR SIR,--I was not well the day of your former feast, which unfortunately deprived me of the pleasure of tasting your good things; and to-day I am compelled to go down to Balaklava to see after stores for the troops embarking for Kertch. But I know all will do well under your able direction, and hereafter I shall have the satisfaction of witnessing the beneficial results of your labours in the camp kitchens.

Sincerely yours, J. HALL.

PURVEYOR-IN-CHIEF’S OFFICE, SCUTARI,

_August 8th, 1855_.

MY DEAR SIR,--I have much pleasure in acknowledging the receipt of your letter. If I have done anything to help you, it is because I have seen it to be my duty to the public, and because your admirable arrangements have all the object of making the sick man delight in his diet, which, I fear, was not the case previous to your arrival.

I can, perhaps, more than any one appreciate the good you have done. Why, then, should I not heart and soul help you in an object, the attainment of which induced you to leave England?--viz., the good of the soldier.

Go on, and success to you. I will endeavour to help you as much as I can at Balaklava, as I have felt it my duty and pleasure to do here.

I am, my dear Sir, yours truly, J. SCOTT ROBERTSON.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Balaklava.

GUARDS’ CAMP, FIRST DIVISION, SEBASTOPOL, _October 16th, 1855_.

I hereby acknowledge the receipt of five of Monsieur A. Soyer’s field-kitchens or camp stoves, which are now in active use by the cooks of the Coldstream Guards. And I hereby further acknowledge the receipt of a sixth camp-stove from Monsieur Soyer, for the use of the hospital of the said regiment. I cannot speak too highly in praise of these camp-kitchens for the great comfort and convenience they afford, the great economy and diminution of fuel, whether placed in the open air or under cover, and enabling the cooks to soak their salt meat properly; also to make puddings of rice and other things; and in cases of emergency, any quantity of rice-water, barley-water, or lemonade can be made, as well as soup, beef-tea, &c. If split peas were issued as rations by the Commissariat once or twice a week, when salt pork and beef are given, it would be a great addition to the soldier’s comfort, as well as a most wholesome and nutritious food, and very strongly recommended by Monsieur Soyer. Speaking for the Brigade of Guards, which I have the honour at this time to command, I have to thank Monsieur Soyer for all his kindness, and the very great boon he has given us by granting us the use of his stoves, which are the models for the rest of the army in the Crimea.

GORDON DRUMMOND, Colonel, _Commanding Brigade of Guards_.

Monsieur A. Soyer, Guards’ Encampment, Sebastopol.

BALAKLAVA, _9th Dec., 1855_.

DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I am favoured with your letter of 29th ult., and am glad to hear so favourable a report of the compressed vegetables which have recently arrived out.

I sent to Constantinople some time ago for a supply of haricot beans, with, the view to being issued with salt pork, as you recommended; and their introduction generally will be greatly benefited by your personal superintendence and advice, as you propose.

We shall all have great pleasure in seeing you here again, and availing ourselves of your valuable suggestions and services.

The winter has fairly set in, after two months of beautiful weather. Cold, damp, and discomfort prevail to a certain extent, and we move about in a sea of mud; but, as a set-off, we have abundance of supplies of all kinds, including fuel--the men are well clothed, and the erection of the huts is well advanced, notwithstanding their late arrival and the difficulty in transporting them to the front.

I remain, dear Monsieur Soyer,

Yours very faithfully, GEO. MACLEAN.

Monsieur Soyer, &c., Scutari.

P. S.--I have written for a six months’ supply of Chorlet’s compressed vegetables as a reserve, and to guard against unforeseen contingencies. We have fresh vegetables, potatoes, and onions, more regularly; but cannot always expect this will continue. The quantity sent for will be about 10,000,000 of rations.--G. M.

CAMP, _May 11th, 1856_.

SIR,--One of your cooking-stoves was tried by me yesterday and to-day.

It answers to perfection; I never tasted better soup than was this day made by a soldier out of _the regular rations_.

The quantity of fuel saved by this stove is enormous.

I trust that your information is correct--viz., that Government have made arrangements to supply the army with these cooking-stoves.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant, ALEXANDER MAXWELL, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 46th Regiment_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _May 21st, 1856_.

MY DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I can have no hesitation in saying that your stove is the best I have seen, and the men of my regiment are very much pleased with it.

I think you told me that ovens could be fitted to them also; if so, they will be a boon conferred on the British soldier, which he will, I am sure, highly appreciate.

Yours very faithfully,

B. DAUBENEY, _Commanding 55th Regiment_.

CAMP, NEAR SEBASTOPOL, _May 23rd, 1856_.

SIR,--I have the honour to report that the result of the experimental cooking by Monsieur Soyer’s stove and boiler has been most satisfactory.

The small quantity of fuel required is a great advantage, a small stick carried by each man of a company would afford sufficient fuel to cook a meal.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant, W. SPARKE, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 38th Regiment_.

The Major of Brigade.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _May 25th, 1856_.

SIR,--I have to acknowledge your letter of this morning, and have much pleasure in stating that during the short period we had the opportunity of using your field-stove, nothing could be more satisfactory, both in its superiority as a means of cooking a large quantity of rations in a short time, and also from the small quantity of fuel used in doing so. I must also give it as my opinion, that it is admirably suited for operations in the field, but requires to have the outer casing protected in some way; probably an open netting of iron wire would do so, with a couple of loops, so that two stoves could be attached and carried by one mule or horse.

I remain, Sir,

Yours very faithfully, RAMSAY STUART, _Lieutenant-Colonel 21st Fusiliers_.

Alexis Soyer, Esq., &c. &c. &c., Crimea.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.

SIR,--I beg leave to state that I approve most highly of your field-stoves.

Each company in my regiment has had good opportunities of fully testing their qualities; and both in the cooking of fresh and salt meat have been found to answer the purpose for which they were intended, remarkably well.

I have the honor to be, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant, B. RILEY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 48th Regiment_.

Monsieur A. Soyer.

FOURTH DIVISION, CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.

MONSIEUR SOYER,--In reply to your letter of the 21st of this month, relative to the field-stoves, I beg to state that the stove has been tried by the 57th Regiment, and I am of opinion that it is well adapted for the purpose intended.

It affords every facility for cooking, and saves a considerable quantity of fuel; and two of the stoves to one company on the march would be far preferable to the camp-kettles now in use.

I have the honour to be,

JOHN A. STREET, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 57th Regiment_.

Monsieur Soyer, Fourth Division.

CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _27th May, 1856_.

SIR,--I have the honour to state, for the information of the Major-General commanding the Fourth Division, that Monsieur Soyer’s cooking-stove has been tried in the 57th Regiment, and I am of opinion that it is well adapted for the purpose intended; there is a very considerable saving of fuel, and little difficulty in cooking; and two stoves per company would be far preferable to the camp-kettles now in use.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant, JOHN A. STREET, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 57th Regiment_.

Lieut.-Col. Smith, A.A.G., Fourth Division.

CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.

SIR,--With reference to No. 3 of this day’s order, I have the honour to state that during the short period we had the opportunity of using Monsieur Soyer’s field-stove, nothing could be more satisfactory, both in its superiority as a means of cooking a large quantity of rations in a short time, and also from the small quantity of fuel used in doing so.

I must also give it as my opinion that it is admirably suited for operations in the field, but requires to have the outer casing protected in some way; probably an open netting of iron wire would do so, with a couple of loops, so that two stoves could then be attached and carried by one mule or horse.

I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant,

RAMSAY STUART, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 21st Fusiliers_.

The Assistant-Adjutant-General, &c. &c. &c., Fourth Division.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.

SIR,--In compliance with Division Order No. 3 of this day’s date, I beg leave to state that I approve most highly of the Soyer field-stoves.

Each company in my regiment has had good opportunities of fully testing their qualities; and both in the cooking of fresh and salt meat, they have been found to answer the purpose for which they were intended, remarkably well.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant, B. RILEY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 48th Regiment_.

The Brigade-Major, Second Brigade, Fourth Division Camp.

CAMP, FOURTH DIVISION, _27th May, 1856_.

SIR,--In compliance with divisional orders of yesterday’s date, directing officers commanding corps to report on Monsieur Soyer’s stove,

I have the honour to state I consider Monsieur Soyer’s stove cooks the men’s rations infinitely better than the ordinary way. The saving of fuel, also, to Government is a very important consideration; and moreover I am informed by Monsieur Soyer that the men’s rations can easily be baked by his stove, which I consider very desirable, so as to enable the men to have a change in the way of cooking their dinner.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient servant, F. C. EVELEGH, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 20th Regiment_.

The Assistant-Adjutant-General,

Fourth Division.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _27th May, 1856_.

SIR,--Having had one of your field-stoves in use for some weeks, for the men of the 23d Fusiliers, and all the companies having taken their turn of cooking with it, I am happy to be able to bear testimony to the great improvement you have effected in the soldiers’ cooking. Your field-stoves are clean, easy to use, and very economical of fuel; they cook the soldiers’ food extremely well, and the men like them very much, each company having been anxious to retain the stove as long as possible. The great saving of fuel, also, renders these stoves particularly valuable in a camp like this.

I am, Sir,

Your obedient servant, HENRY W. BUNBURY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 23rd Fusiliers_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, &c. &c. &c.

LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, _May 27th, 1856_.

SIR,--I beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letter respecting the field-stove, and have no hesitation in giving my testimony as to its great efficiency, both as to economy of fuel and the simple method of cooking, the result of which can scarcely fail to be satisfactory, even with the most ignorant and unskilful performer.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient servant, PERCY HILL, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 2nd Bat. Rifle Brigade_.

Monsieur Soyer, Fourth Division Camp.

CAMP OF THE LIGHT DIVISION BEFORE SEBASTOPOL,

_27th May, 1856_.

MY DEAR SIR,--I am happy to inform you that your new stove has been used, with great success, in the 77th Regiment.

It dresses the men’s dinners remarkably well, and a great saving of fuel is effected by using it--about a stone of coals a day.

I consider it admirably adapted for cooking in the field, and it is very portable.

I am, my dear Sir,

Very faithfully yours, R. J. STRATON, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 77th Regiment_.

Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.

CAMP BEFORE SEVASTOPOL, _28th May, 1856_.

SIR,--Having tried your stove, I consider it the best possible cooking apparatus for the army, whether in barracks or standing camp.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient servant, A. RUSSELL, Major, _Commanding 1st Bat. Rifle Brigade_.

Monsieur A. Soyer, Camp, Fourth Division.

CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _28th May 1856_.

MONSIEUR SOYER,--The cooking-stove sent to my regiment on trial was in use one week, and I am glad to be able to tell you was highly approved of.

The soup was richer and superior in flavour, and the meat better boiled.

It has the great advantage of cleanliness, also being capable of service in the open air, needing only a shed to keep the weather off those employed.

Yours very obediently,

W. H. WELLESLEY, Colonel, _Commanding Royal Fusiliers_.

Monsieur A. Soyer.

CRIMEA, _31st May, 1856_.

I hereby certify that Soyer’s field-kitchen for fifty men has recently been tried in the battalion under my command, in cooking soldiers’ rations, and that it appears perfectly to answer all purposes. It possesses many advantages--viz., the small quantity of fuel required, its lightness and portability, and requiring, when in use, the attendance of only one man. It is in every respect preferable to the cooking coppers generally used in barracks.

R. W. HUEY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 2nd Bat. 1st Royal Regiment_.

CAMP, KAMARA, _1st June, 1856_.

I have much pleasure in bearing my testimony to the great advantage of Monsieur Soyer’s field-stove over the usual method of cooking practised by an army, from the economy in fuel, the little attention it requires when the fire is once lighted, and its construction enabling the soldier to cook in the open air in all weathers. The slow process of boiling, also, which is easily regulated by the men after a day’s instruction, produces a more nutritious soup, and renders the meat more tender than when cooked in the ordinary way. Altogether, I consider the improvement one of great utility.

JOHN DOUGLAS, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 79th Highlanders_.

To Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

CRIMEA, _June 2nd, 1856_.

SIR,--I have much pleasure in bearing testimony in favour of your stove, which is highly approved by my men; and from its cleanliness, and economy in fuel, I think it must supersede the old method of cooking.

I remain, Sir,

Your obedient servant, EDWARD W. WALKER, Colonel, _Commanding Fusilier Guards_.

Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.

CAMP, KAMARA, _2nd June, 1856_.

SIR,--In answer to yours of the 21st May last, I am of opinion that your “field-stove,” if taken into general use in the army, would be a great improvement over the old system of cooking with camp-kettles. It requires but little attendance, a great deal less fuel, without the least regard to situation, and may be used with perfect freedom in any description of weather.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant, A. LEITH HAY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 93rd Highlanders_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Cathcart’s Hill, Crimea.

LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, _4th June, 1856_.

SIR,--I have much pleasure in being able to bear testimony to the efficacy of your field-stoves. Their extreme simplicity and their consuming so little fuel, render them particularly applicable to the use of soldiers. The men of the regiment under my command all approve of them.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant, A. C. GOODENOUGH, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 34th Regiment_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Cathcart’s Hill.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _7th June, 1856_.

I have witnessed the working of Monsieur Soyer’s patent portable kitchen for troops, and consider it most excellent--the process simple, saving of fuel great, and always insuring a good meal to the soldier, in camp or barrack, it will be a great boon, should it be generally adopted.

THOMAS KELLY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 31st Regiment_.

CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, FOURTH DIVISION, _June 14th, 1856_.

Major-General Garrett approves highly of the cooking-stoves introduced by Monsieur Soyer, which have been made trial of by all the regiments of the Fourth Division, and have given great satisfaction to the men, and have been approved by commanding officers.

In a standing camp, or in quarters, they are admirable; they can be put up in an instant anywhere, either in or out of doors, and they never smoke. If attention is paid to the proportions of meat, water, and the necessary ingredients, when cooking commences, the most careless soldier can scarcely fail in making a good mess. There is also a great saving of fuel; and as only a certain amount of fire can be kept going, a steady and even process of cooking is insured, by which, without any great skill on the part of the soldier, a good dinner is in due course produced.

A. GARRETT, Major-General, _Commanding Fourth Division_.

LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, CRIMEA, _14th June, 1856_.

MY DEAR SIR,--It gives me great pleasure to send you my opinion of your camp-stove--the 90th Light Infantry under my command having had one on trial for some weeks, during which time I watched it very closely. If generally used in the army, I consider it will be as great a boon to soldiers as it must be a saving to the public. Its portability for camp purposes, where one mule can carry two stoves to cook everything for one hundred men, and without the necessity for a cook-house, is an important consideration; but the more so when its portability does not affect its qualities for general purposes in barracks, &c. The smallest quantity of fuel is required to light it and to keep it sufficiently hot, and the degree of heat being so well and simply regulated, waste of fuel becomes impossible, and the cooking much improved over ordinary coppers in the usual barrack cook-houses. With the addition of your very simple receipts, it appears to me that there is everything we can require, not only to make the most of a soldier’s rations, but to render them both wholesome and palatable.

You were good enough to superintend personally at my cook-houses--until that time, the soldiers threw away, or used for other purposes than intended, the fat of the pork ration; with your plain instructions, they afterwards spread it on their bread as butter, and no wonder they were exceedingly fond of it, for it was pure and sweet, and far superior to the rank bad butter they purchased in the canteens, &c., in the Crimea. It will not be wasted again. I am happy to have this opportunity to acknowledge a great service rendered, and I wish that your camp-stoves may meet with the success they deserve, that they may be generally used in the army, not only in camp, but in quarters, hospitals, &c.

I am, dear Sir, very faithfully yours,

ROBERT CAMPBELL, Colonel, _Commanding 90th Light Infantry_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, &c. &c.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _14th June, 1856_.

MY DEAR SIR,--I have just received your letter.

In reply, I have now to state, from what I have seen of your stoves, that they are most admirably adapted for the purpose intended. They economize fuel, which is a great thing; and they will be a great “boon” to the soldier, in every respect.

I am, yours very truly,

THOMAS INGRAM, Lieut-Col., _Commanding 97th Regiment_.

To Monsieur Soyer, &c. Barrack Hospital, Scutari.

HEAD-QUARTERS, SEBASTOPOL, _19th June, 1856_.

SIR,--In acknowledging your letter of the 15th instant, I have to observe that one of your camp-stoves has been in constant use in the 56th Regiment for the last two months, and from inquiries from the men themselves, and my own observation, I am decidedly of opinion that they possess very considerable advantages over any other means of cooking at present in use in the British army, and I would strongly advocate their being furnished to all barracks, not only on account of their superiority in rendering the soldiers’ ration much more wholesome than when prepared by the means ordinarily used, but also for their great economy of fuel and labour.

All these advantages were clearly demonstrated on the occasion of Lord Gough’s visit to the camp of the 56th, when, with ten of the stoves in operation, you superintended so successfully the cooking of five hundred men’s rations.

I remain, your very obedient servant,

A. W. LACY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 56th Regiment_.

Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.

CAMP, KADIKOI, _June 26th, 1856_.

DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--The kitchen which you were kind enough to leave in our camp has been working admirably; the men are quite delighted with it, because it saves them so much trouble and cooks their rations so far superior to the old way: the saving in fuel must be immense. I trust, when we get back to England, every regiment may be served with them.

Believe me, very truly yours,

W. PEEL, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 11th Hussars_.

SCUTARI, _August 11th, 1856_.

MY DEAR SIR,--The department to which I belong having been broken up consequent on the return of the English army from the East, I hope you will allow me, before I leave this country, to express to you the obligation I feel for your invaluable services in the hospitals here and at Kululee. To the important information and improvements which from the first you brought to bear upon the culinary department at each hospital, have the sick been indebted for much of the comforts they enjoyed when in hospital; nothing does tend to console a patient, or to restore him, so much as the nicety of the food which is given him: on the other hand, the badly-cooked food which is so often found in hospitals where the cooks have not been trained, retard no doubt the convalescence of the sick, the patient rather turning from his meal than desiring it. It was not so, however, with the hospitals here from the time you commenced your improvements in the kitchens.

I could not, for myself, have desired anything better than the meals which, through your management, were furnished daily to the patients. I think the general management of the kitchen has been admirable, and, considering the vast numbers which had to be cooked for, in every way successful. I believe your system introduced into the general hospitals of the army generally, would be attended with incalculable advantage in every way, to the sick as well as the convalescents, and, I have no doubt, with much economy.

You are aware how much pleasure it gave me to see the working of your excellent field-kitchens at the First Division, when I visited the Crimea in September last on duty. So much was I struck with their excellence, and the little expense attending them, that I addressed a letter to Sir Benjamin Hawes on the subject at the time, suggesting the propriety of at once introducing them into the hospitals in the front, where I believe they were very much wanted. I can only hope that ere long not a regiment in the service will be without them; and I am sure that will be the wish of all who have seen them in operation.

Wishing you a happy return to England, where you left your family and friends with the patriotic and humane object of rendering your gratuitous services to the army in the East at a time when so much suffering was endured by the soldiers both in hospital and in the field, and with my thanks for your valuable assistance to my department,

Believe me to be, yours very sincerely,

T. SCOTT ROBERTSON, _Purveyor-in-Chief_.

To Monsieur Soyer.

MALTA, _September 8th, 1856_.

SIR,--In reply to your letter requesting me to give you my opinion on the subject of your military cooking stove, I now beg to give you the opinion I have formed of them.

I will first mention that the stove was used by each of the companies of the 47th Regiment in succession. The non-commissioned officers and soldiers all spoke most favourably of it.

The portable cooking stove has, in my mind, many important advantages to recommend it--one very important one being that it can cook in any situation whatsoever, and in any weather, and with the smallest possible consumption of fuel of any kind which may be available--a very great consideration in localities where fuel is scarce or difficult of access. I imagine those stoves would have answered admirably for cooking in the trenches before Sebastopol, taking little room, consuming little fuel, and showing but little smoke, and cooking the food as securely and perfectly in bad weather as in fine.

For field hospitals they would answer admirably, _especially as carrying their own fuel_ on a march. The cooking for the sick could commence instantly on the halt taking place.

I think here at Malta they would be very useful in many of the encampments; in fact, anywhere that troops are suddenly placed they (the cooking stoves) would be found of great use. Even they could answer very well in the event of troops having on any emergency to embark in vessels inadequately provided with cooking apparatus.

Fully convinced of their merits, I wish the invention all the military success and encouragement it deserves.

I have the honour to be your very obedient servant,

M. J. HALEY, _Colonel commanding 47th Regiment_.

To Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

P.S. There is one observation I cannot help adding, which is that, however desirable it is to give the army improved utensils for cooking, little progress will be made in military cookery and teaching the soldiers to turn such rations or other articles of food to account in the most advantageous and ready manner, unless it is some one person’s particular business to teach cooking. We ought to have a non-commissioned officer for the special duty, and who would be responsible for imparting instruction in that most essential craft; recollecting a most important _maxime de guerre_:--“C’est la soupe qui fait le soldat.”

13, KENSINGTON PARK TERRACE NORTH, _July, 1857_.

DEAR SIR,--I understand that you are about to publish some observations respecting your valuable labours in the culinary department in the military hospitals of Scutari and the Crimea. If you permit me, I shall be happy to add a few remarks, such as occurred to me during the period I was engaged by the Government as one of the physicians in the Barrack Hospital. One of the first duties in the treatment of the sick was to ascertain the quality of the food adapted to invalids labouring under every form of fever, of acute and chronic diarrhœa, and especially dysentery. It is in vain to attempt to cure these diseases by medicines only; a carefully regulated diet was of the first consequence; and I was early disappointed and embarrassed by the wretched state of the kitchens and diet intended for the sick. I was in the habit of frequenting the kitchen which belonged to the division of the hospital in which I was doing duty, and observing the mode of cooking, and soon found that the soldier-cooks were quite ignorant of their art. I have constantly examined and tasted the mutton and fowls, the soups, the vegetables, and the puddings, and I do not hesitate to affirm that they were as unpalatable and unsavoury and as objectionable as they could be. The practice of cooking the fowls was to put them into nets--a dozen or more in one net; several nets were placed in large coppers; and then to boil them as rapidly as possible, with fierce heat. I have many times examined their quality after this process of rapid boiling, and always found them extremely tough and uneatable, and generally the sick soldier could not masticate them, especially as so many of the sick were suffering from spongy gums and decayed teeth, the effects of scurvy. The mutton, generally bad in quality, was always very badly cooked, and the broths or soups very destitute of flavour. No one, sir, can know so well as a physician the great value of palatable and easily digestible food--it is of more consequence than the whole contents of the apothecary’s shop.

I do not desire to flatter you, nor unnecessarily to disparage the former miserable system of cooking. Your presence in that essential department of the healing art inspired us with new hopes. In a few days we discovered the superiority of your successful efforts to unite the agreeable and nutritive qualities of food. Under your instructions, the meat became savoury and eatable--the soups were relished--the puddings were pleasant, and enjoyed--the tea and coffee were refreshing. Those invalids who before your arrival seemed to yield most patiently to their hard lot of semi-starvation, and often went without the medical comforts, now looked out anxiously for the hour when these creature blessings were usually distributed. The Government, with a proper generosity, gave almost a _carte blanche_ to the Medical Staff to order every medical comfort to the poor sick soldier who could no longer wield a sword or shoulder a musket, and who were perishing by diseases aggravated by improper diet and bad cooking. The art of the _cuisine_ yields not in importance to medicine itself--it is the handmaid of the physician; and I would rather trust to its curative powers than to the physic of the doctors, if I were limited to the alternative of either the one or the other.

I am, dear Sir, your obedient servant,

ROBERT WOOLLASTON, _M.D. Lond., F.S.C.S., Late one of the Physicians of the Barrack Hospital at Scutari_.

To Monsieur Soyer.

_Copy of Letter addressed by the Author to the Right Honourable the Lord Panmure, K.T., &c. &c. &c., relating to the completion of his Mission, in the shape of a Journal._

MY LORD,--I beg to close this little journal by stating the reason of my long absence since the treaty of peace. It was with the intention of writing a work which will, I hope, perpetuate the ameliorations I have been enabled (through the confidence reposed in me by your lordship) to introduce in the diets for the hospitals, as well as the cooking for the army. And this can be effected in a very short time, without increasing the expense to the nation, but will, on the contrary, be likely to tend to economy, it being well recognised by the faculty that change of food is as essential to the soldier in health as change of diet is to the invalid. This work will also, with little trouble, have the effect of making cooks of the soldiers, and teach them at the same time to make the most of their rations either in camp or in barracks.

With the most profound respect, I have the honour to remain,

Your Lordship’s obedient servant, A. SOYER.

USEFUL INVENTIONS

SOYER’S SCUTARI TEAPOT.

This teapot, which is registered, is manufactured by Messrs. Deane and Dray, London Bridge, and sold by all ironmongers in the kingdom.

The top of the minaret forms the lid, and the tube which holds the tea, being moveable, allows every facility for cleaning, and amongst its many advantages the most prominent are its cheapness, elegance, and simplicity. It can be made any size.

PATENT ROTARY KNIFE-CLEANER.

Amongst the many tribulations of small families, one of the worst is knife-cleaning, which is one of the most disagreeable of all household duties--and what is worse than a dirty knife? Yet where is the house where the housewife is not well up in the household duties who does not experience this inconvenience? A gentleman named Detheir, a nephew of the celebrated Detheir of the Great Northern Hotel, has really invented a knife-cleaner which ought to be introduced in all public institutions, commercial houses, and private families. So much do I approve of this machine as a public boon, that I trust they will be made at such a moderate price as to come within the reach of all.

INDEX TO ADDENDA.

HOSPITAL DIETS.

Apple Barley Water, 523

Arrowroot Milk, 517

Arrowroot Water, 517

Baked Apple Toast-and-Water, 522

Barley Water, 518

Batter Pudding, 519

Beef Soup, 514

Beef Tea, 514

Boiled Rice, 521

Bread-and-Butter Pudding, 520

Bread Pudding, 520

Browning for Soups, 522

Calf’s-foot Jelly, 516

Cheap Plain Rice Pudding for Campaigning, 519

Chicken Broth, 515

Citronade, 523

Currant Syrup, 523

Custard Pudding, 520

Date Water, 523

Effervescent Beverages, 523

Essence of Beef Tea, 515

Figs and Apple Beverages, 521

Fig Water, 523

French Herb Broth, 522

Jelly Stock, 517

Macaroni Pudding, 520

Mulberry Water, 523

Mutton and Veal Tea, 115

Orange-Flower Water, 523

Pine Apple Syrup, 523

Plain-boiled Rice, 515

Plain Lemonade, 523

Plain Oatmeal, 516

Raisin Water, 523

Raspberry Water, 523

Rice with Gravy, 516

Rich Rice Pudding, 520

Rice Water, 518

Sago Jelly, 517

Sago Pudding, 521

Semi-citric Lemonade, 518

Semi-stewed Mutton and Barley Soup for one hundred Men, 513

Soyer’s Cheap Lemonade, 519

Soyer’s Plain Lemonade, 518

Spring Drink, 523

Stewed French Plums, 521

Stewed Macaroni, 520

Strengthening Beef Tea, 515

Summer Drink, 523

Sweet Rice, 516

Syrup of Orgeat, 523

Tapioca Pudding, 521

Tartaric Lemonade, 519

Thick Arrowroot Milk, 517

Thick Beef Tea, 515

Toast-and-Water, 522

ARMY RECEIPTS.

Army Soup for fifty Men, 526

Baking and Roasting with the Field Stove, 528

Baking in Oven, 529

Beef Soup, 532

Camp Soup, 531

Cocoa for eighty Men, 530

Coffee for ten or eighty Men, 529

Easy way of Cooking in Earthen Pan, 530

French Beef Soup, or Pot-au-Feu, 530

How to Soak and Plain-boil Rations of Salt Beef and Pork on Land and at Sea, 525

How to Cook for a Regiment of one thousand Men, 527

Pea Soup, 532

Plain Irish Stew for fifty Men, 527

Receipts for Frying-pan, 532

Salt Meat for fifty Men, 525

Salt Pork, with Mashed Peas, for one hundred Men, 562

Salt Pork and Pudding, with Cabbage and Potatoes, 527

Semi-Frying, Camp Fashion, 530

Soyer’s Food for one hundred Men, for using two stoves, 527

Stewed Salt Beef and Pork for one hundred Men, or a Regiment of one thousand Men, 526

Stewed Fresh Beef and Rice, 532

Suet Dumplings, 533

Tea for eighty Men, 529

Turkish Pilaff for one hundred Men, 528

BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS.

Battered Eggs with Mushrooms, 546

Battered Eggs with Sprue Grass, 546

Bouillabaisse Anglicised, 550

Ditto, Second Class, 550

Chicken, American fashion, 549

Chipped or ribboned Potatoes, 548

Chop or Steak à la Sultana, 536

Chops semi-Provençal, or Marseilles fashion, 536

Cold Asparagus Salad, 549

Crab Salad, 543

Crabs au Gratin in the Shell, 541

Curried Eggs, 547

Curried Tripe, 539

Eggs with Tomato Sauce, 547

Eggs with chopped Ham or Tongue, 546

Eggs with Mushrooms, 546

Eggs with Truffles, 546

Eggs with Sprue Grass, 547

Eggs à la Bonne Femme, 547

Eggs au Miroir with Ham or Bacon, 546

Eggs à la Tripe or Onion Sauce, 547

Endive Salad, 544

Fillet de Bœuf, Parisian fashion, 535

Fillet de Bœuf, semi-Chateaubriant, 536

Fried Oysters, New York way, 542

Fried Potatoes, 547

Fried Potatoes with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 548

Fried Potatoes with Cayenne Pepper, 548

Game for Supper, 542

Gratin Tripe in Shell, 539

Grilled Chicken with Sharp Sauce, 539

Ham and Bacon Omelettes, 545

Ham with Shalots, Parsley, and Chervil, 546

Herring à la Rob Roy, 549

Kidneys Saute, with Sherry, Port, or Champagne, 537

Kidney Toast, 537

Lamb Chops à l’Africaine, 538

Lamb Chops à la Printaniere, 538

Lamb Chops à la Boulogne, 538

Lamb’s Fry, 540

Lobster Curry, 540

Lobster Curry in Shell, 540

Lobster au Gratin, 540

Lobster Cutlets, 540

Lobster Salad, 543

Minced Sandwiches, 536

Mirrored Eggs, 546

Mushroom Kidney Sandwich, 536

Mutton and Lamb Cutlets à la Bouchère, 535

Mutton and Lamb Cutlets semi-Bouchère, 535

Mutton, Lamb, or Veal Cutlets, en Papillote, 537

Mutton or Lamb Chops à la Turc, 540

New Potato Salad, German fashion, 549

Ditto, with French or Haricôt Beans, 549

Omelettes with fine Herbs, 544

Omelettes with Mushrooms 545

Omelettes with Sprue Grass, 545

Omelettes with Parmesan, 545

Oysters stewed American fashion, 542

Plain Mutton Chops and Steaks, 535

Plain Salad with Anchovies, 544

Poached Eggs with Cream, 545

Poached Eggs with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 545

Poached Eggs semi-curried with Ham or Bacon, 545

Pork Chops à la Tartare, 538

Pork Chops with Pimento Butter, 538

Rarebit à la Soyer, with Sherry or Champagne, 547

Relishing Steak, 535

Rumpsteak and Potatoes, 534

Salad, new, Tartar fashion, 543

Sandwiches for Evening Parties, 540

Sauces, List of, 551 to 554

Scalloped Lobster, 540

Semi-curried kidneys, 537

Soyer’s Broiling or Universal Devil, 539

Soyer’s Grouse Salad, 543

Soyer’s Universal Devil Mixture, 548

Ditto for the Million, 549

Soyer’s Balaklava Nectar, 560

Soyer’s Crimean Cup à la Wyndham, 550

Stewed Tripe, 539

Stewed Oysters on toast, 542

Tripe Lyonnaise fashion, 539

A SERIES OF RECEIPTS FOR THE NEEDY, 555 TO 566.

ANECDOTES, ETC.

The Duke of Cambridge’s Head-Quarters prior to the Battle of Inkermann, 567

A Visit to Dolma Batchi Palace, 570

The Travelling Gentleman of the Crimea, 573

The Consumption Hospital, 574

Copies of Letters, 575 to 591

Patent Rotary Knife Cleaner, 593

LONDON: SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, CHANDOS STREET, COVENT-GARDEN.

* * * * *

SOYER’S SULTANA’S SAUCE, Analysed by Dr. Hassall.

I have examined with much care several samples of M. SOYER’S NEW EASTERN OR SULTANA SAUCE, and I am of opinion that it is an excellent preparation. While it is a good stomachic, its flavour is delicious; moreover the ingredients of which it is composed are of the purest and most wholesome description.

ARTHUR WILLIAM HASSALL, M.D.,

Author of “Food and its Adulterations,” “Adulterations Detected,” &c. &c.

8, BENNETT STREET, ST. JAMES’S STREET, _14th August, 1857_.

SOLE AGENTS--MESSRS. CROSSE AND BLACKWELL.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] He also approved of my observation, that I was well aware that people could not expect to find those dishes on the bill of fare every day, but only one or two nightly. To insure success, I would advise the proprietors of all extensive supper-houses to adopt the plan I so successfully introduced at the Reform Club many years since, which was to make a small bill of fare of eight or ten dishes which were ready, and cross out such as run short during the evening, recommending only those which remained. This saved time, words, and confusion; besides giving an opportunity of introducing one or two novelties daily, which would pay well if properly attended to. It would also gratify the consumer, who should not be kept waiting for his supper till fresh provisions were sent for and cooked, as at that hour many persons would content themselves with a less variety of dishes rather than wait.

[2] For Receipts, see Addenda.

[3] This spot is little known to the English in general, and to many who have travelled over the world; but as no such delightful place exists anywhere but in England, how can it possibly interest an Englishman? First of all, it is too close for the wealthy, and too far for the people, being six miles by coach from either Windsor or Staines. During the five months I spent there last summer, the greatest number of visitors I counted daily was about twenty or thirty round the lake, which is seven and a half miles in circumference. I should also observe that Louis Napoleon, being a man of great taste, has imitated it in the Bois de Bologne as nearly as possible; and by going there, every Englishman will have an idea of that which he possesses at home, without troubling himself, while in London, to go as far as Virginia Water.

[4] I have since learned that this gentleman during the campaign did so much good, and was so earnest in his endeavours to relieve the sufferings of the wounded at the battle of Inkermann, the allied as well as the Russian troops, that I intend to devote a page of this work to him, and also mention the names of the generals and others who spoke in such high terms of his exertions.

[5] I had bought a cash-belt, but upon trying it, on the point of our departure, I found it too short. This circumstance caused me to place everything in my pocket-book.

[6] That his Majesty was going early in March to the Crimea I can assert as a positive fact. Having met with many unbelievers on this subject in the Crimea is the cause of my relating this anecdote; and no doubt nothing but the following unexpected news could have prevented his majesty from following out his determination.

[7] A magnificent palace, dedicated to the Empress Eugénie, designed by the Emperor, is now in course of erection near the spot.

[8] This remark may probably come to the notice of his friends, and lead to a monument being erected to his memory, which, no doubt, he well deserves.

[9] I earnestly recommend the adoption of this plan in every public institution, civil or military. For example, put in the caldron, which we will suppose holds fifty gallons, so much water, so many pounds of meat, vegetables, salt, pepper, and sugar; add the barley, light the fire; stir now and then with a long wooden spaddle to prevent the barley sticking at the bottom of the caldron; when boiling, reduce the fire. Simmer gently two and a half hours, if mutton is used; if beef, three hours. Never skim it, only take the fat off, if any, which use for other purposes, or instead of butter (see Hospital receipt in Addenda). If two or more boilers are required, the quantities given in the scale only need increasing.

[10] If I dwell so minutely upon these apparently frivolous details, it is only because I wish to show that I did not introduce anything until it had first met with the approval of the medical gentlemen.

[11] I believe I am correct in stating that, in the French army, one soldier has to cook for a squad of sixteen men, while in camp: and that he has charge of two canteen kettles. I always saw five or six men cooking for a company in each kitchen; there were ten kitchens to a regiment of ten companies. This the soldiers told me themselves.

I make this remark to corroborate what I afterwards said in Paris before several French officers who contradicted me, but who, I believe, were not in the Crimean war. They stated that they only had two cooks to one company while campaigning. Upon making inquiries of a corporal who had charge of that department in his regiment while in the Crimea, he assured me that it was one man to each kettle, and not one to two--afterwards divided into two messes, forming a squad of nine or ten men, which would be equal to one hundred men to a regiment of one thousand in strength, instead of eight, as I at first calculated, or about ten squads to a company. While in barracks, comparatively speaking, it only requires a few men per regiment.

[12] If I have here related this anecdote, it is with the intention of showing the effect produced by the report upon all engaged in the hospitals, who felt that a gentleman of that age, though very capable, might, with his antique notions, upset what was then going on so well.

[13] I have such confidence in the nutritive qualities and the importance to the army and navy of these bread-biscuits, that I intend to recommend their adoption in both departments. For a campaign they are invaluable; and at sea they would make an excellent change, being as light as bread.

[14] The difficulty of recollecting the names and the rank of military men in the Crimea is great. This is particularly the case with me. The performance of my manifold duties compelled me to cross and re-cross hundreds of times from vessel to vessel, hospital to hospital, and camp to camp. I met and received attentions and aid from numbers, of whom it is impossible to retain more than a slight photographic sketch of their noble Saxon countenances. From the peculiarity of my costume, I was almost as well known to every one in the camp as a _chien du régiment_.

I offer this explanation as an apology to any one whom I may have inadvertently annoyed--if any such there be--in my account of my Crimean campaign, by not giving the proper rank or name.

[15] A peculiar kind of turbot found in the Black Sea, with scales, each scale something like the head of a large iron nail; and though, when the fish is thickly covered, it in a measure spoils its appearance, yet it does not in the slightest interfere with the quality, but, on the contrary, leaves a gelatinous succulence round it, entirely peculiar to this rough-outfitted denizen of the ocean.

[16] Sir Michael Shaw Stewart’s sister.

[17] This is the ancient who, after partaking of the best dinner ever prepared, unfortunately inquired of his private secretary how his cash account stood, and finding that he had only a few millions of dollars remaining, for fear of being in future obliged to dine badly, or at least compelled to curtail his incalculable expenditure, one day dined magnificently by himself, and ordering the most luxurious banquet that Rome could boast of. On that solemn occasion, though there were enough culinary _chefs-d’œuvre_ to delight an immense number of epicures, he only invited himself! “Sublime idea!” he ejaculated; “after dining like two Vitelliuses, or several Luculluses, to die in the midst of plenty!” Thereupon he swallowed poison, and was found dead at the head of his table.

[18] Ahmet Pacha, who speaks French, has his country residence at the _greater_ Chamlija; and that of Selim Pacha, where we dined, is in the _lesser_ Chamlija.

[19] That kitchen was put up at the South Union Workhouse, where no doubt it still remains. In some institutions steam tubes have since been introduced into the boiler amongst the food. This, I beg to say, forms no part of my plan, as has been publicly reported. I disapprove of the system altogether, for many reasons, which it would be out of place to discuss in this work.

[20] He related the following anecdote of something that had passed between him and Sir John Campbell, on the eve of the attack of the 18th of June. Sir John had for some time inquired after him, and at last meeting him going to his master’s quarters, called out and said, “François, how much am I in your debt?”

“Why, Colonel, it is only the middle of the month; I will give you your small bill at the end.”

“No, no,” said Sir John, “I want it now, François.”

“Have I offended you, Colonel?”

“Offended me, no! on the contrary, I am much obliged to you for your kind services; but the end of this month may be to-morrow for me, as we shall have a terrible attack upon the Redan; so I want to settle all my little affairs to-day.”

“Oh, I’m sure, General, it will be all right.”

“Indeed I must have it--how much does it amount to?”

“Well, General, if I must, I must--it is one pound seventeen, or somewhere thereabouts.”

The General wished him good night, and with a smile upon his countenance returned to his cave, and François to his duty. That noble-hearted man seemed to have a presentiment that he should not survive the attack. The tears stood in his eyes while he was relating this to me, and I found my own in much the same state in listening to the recital.

[21] A few days after, his Majesty honoured with his presence the grand anniversary ball given at the French Embassy by Monsieur Thouvenel, the French ambassador. It was also very splendid, but not being a fancy one, did not offer the same points of interest. The English ball had the advantage of being the first ever attended by a Moslem monarch: nevertheless, his Sublime Majesty remained longer at the latter than at the former, having, doubtless, taken a fancy to our European social customs.

[22] When I say “according to common sense,” I am speaking within bounds. Salt and pepper, fresh and preserved vegetables (the latter either in tins or in cakes), were distributed from the regimental quartermaster’s stores to the cooks of each company for three days’ consumption at a time. The consequence was that, in a couple of days, and sometimes in one, the three days’ rations had either been consumed or were wasted. The first day, the soup or other food was badly prepared, on account of the excess of these ingredients; and it was still worse on the following days, on account of their being short of all with the exception of the meat, which was therefore boiled in plain water with rice, but often without either salt or vegetables. The food was thus rendered insipid and unwholesome. Such was the system I found in general use, and it was a great pity, seeing the Government had so liberally provided all that was required. Proper regulation was all that was needed in order to increase the comforts of the men. The meals of the whole army constitute a very important matter. Any improvement was certain to be felt daily; for can anything be more unpalatable than a piece of fresh beef boiled in plain water, without seasoning? There was no salt to eat with it, although plenty was allowed for each man. This is what I call want of attention and lack of common sense. I do not mean to say this was always the case, as some quartermasters, who noticed the evil, distributed the vegetables daily, instead of for three days at once. Many of the men were intelligent enough to divide the allowance, but the greater number were very careless; it therefore became of the utmost importance to establish a rule which would not leave them the chance of doing wrong. The great evil is, that after being thus deprived of salt for a day or two, they then receive salt rations, which they boil in small tin camp-kettles, and without soaking, in merely a few pints of water, which becomes like so much brine. Thus various diseases, which are seldom attributed to the real cause, are engendered, and all medicinal equilibrium is completely upset. The rectifying of this was one of the numerous difficulties I had to encounter during my mission.

[23] For a regiment of one thousand men, increase the number of stoves in proportion. If one hundred regiments are to be cooked for, repeat the same in each regiment, when you will have cooked enough food to perfection without much trouble for an army of one hundred thousand men, at the same time effecting a saving of above 400 per cent. in fuel.

[24] For letters of approval from generals of division, colonels in command of regiments, medical and other authorities, see Addenda.

[25] A few hundred yards further, where the French review had taken place, on an ill-selected spot, the dust was blinding both to men and horses, the wind being very high.

[26] It was commenced by General Bentinck, continued by General Wyndham and Lord W. Paulet, and finished by General Garrett. It was situated on the spot once inhabited by Sir John Campbell. The Duke of Newcastle also had his tent pitched there during his stay in the Crimea, not fifty yards from the place where General Cathcart and other great heroes are interred. The reader’s humble and respectful servant is not a little proud to have had the honour of having his last culinary encampment, called Soyer’s Villarette, on that celebrated and glorious locality.

[27] Upon my asking General Garrett the reason why the lunch was fixed so early, “So early, say you!” answered the general, laughing. “What do you think? When I asked Major-General Vassileffsky what was the most convenient time for him to pay me a visit, his reply was--from four to five in the morning.”

“Which, no doubt, general, you thought too late, or too early.”

“True enough,” said the general.

[28] Lately published by George Routledge & Co.

[29] I take this opportunity of informing Monsieur le Conte de Maison, to whom I shall do myself the pleasure of sending a copy of this work, that the disappointment was on our side, and that--the captain in particular--all regretted the impossibility of acquainting those gentlemen with our sudden departure.

[30] Yalta, the place from whence he started, was a distance of forty miles by road from Balaklava; the journey, however, took the lad six days, as he did not know the direct road. He also informed me that at night he used to climb and sleep in a tree, fearing the wild animals, feeding on wild fruit and beech-nuts.

[31] For a description of the interior of the Palace, see Addenda.

[32] The Maltese culinary productions, and well-provided markets, I must defer commenting upon till my work entitled “The Culinary Wonders of all Nations” is produced.

[33] A few days after, I was deputed, by order of the Emperor, to visit and report on the public kitchen for the working classes in Paris, called the Fourneaux de l’Impératrice; for description of which see Addenda.

[34] This receipt, so much approved of by the medical authorities, was in daily use for more than fifteen months from the date of its introduction by me.

[35] The following is from the _Lancet_ of August the 22nd, 1857:--“_Dyspeptic._--We recommend our correspondent to try some of M. Soyer’s new sauce, called the Sultana Sauce. It is made after the Turkish receipt, its flavour is excellent, and it affords considerable aid in cases of slow and weak digestion.”

[36] If no oven, put the pan in water three-parts up, and give half an hour longer. For public institutions, fish, meat, and game may be cooked in a similar manner, for which receipts refer to my “Shilling Cookery.”

[37] The following receipts were written by me in reply to a request inserted in the _Times_ in January, 1855. Each receipt is for two men, but may be increased by adding to the proportions.

[38] Indian corn contains 750 parts of starch, 205 gluten, 30 sugar, 15 tannin. Potatoes contain 200 parts of starch, 40 gluten, 20 sugar.

[39] If hard water is used, add soda.

[40] For the use of the bones, see Receipt No. 9.

[41] If dripping cannot be had, use four pounds of fat.--See Receipt No. 21.

[42] Hot water is the best to use, if convenient.

[43] If colour is required, add a quart of Receipt No. 21.

[44] If bacon cannot be had, the same quantity of solid meat of any kind will do.

[45] If Indian meal is used, it must be boiled two hours.

[46] Porphyna Purpura--if not to be had, use laver or slook--the ulva lactuca.

* * * * *

Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

martys to the science of cookery=> martys to the science of cookery {pg 17}

a letter of introducton=> a letter of introduction {pg 40}

M. Giraldo, who had superintended the disembarkation=> Mr. Giraldo, who had superintended the disembarkation {pg 62}

transcendantly beautiful=> transcendently beautiful {pg 163}

being but meagrely=> being but meagerly {pg 238}

it wont take you ten minutes=> it won’t take you ten minutes {pg 286}

he created quited a sensation=> he created quite a sensation {pg 334}

I cannot recal where=> I cannot recall where {pg 345}

becomes more nutritous=> becomes more nutritious {pg 514}

cut very then=> cut very thin {pg 517}

a little cayanne=> a little cayenne {pg 549}

in his vists to the above=> in his visits to the above {pg 577}

good opportuties of fully=> good opportunities of fully {pg 582}

Fouth Division=> Fourth Division {pg 583}

don’t recal those things=> don’t recall those things {pg 332}

Eggs au Mivoir with Ham or Bacon, 546=> Eggs au Miroir with Ham or Bacon, 546 {index}

End of Project Gutenberg's Soyer's Culinary Campaign, by Alexis Soyer