CHAPTER VIII

IN THE OLD KINGDOM OF VALENCIA

The southernmost position of the ancient kingdom of Valencia belongs geographically and historically to Murcia. The huerta in which Orihuela stands is a continuation of the huerta of Murcia, and in the town itself we recognize the Aurariola which was the capital of the latter kingdom. I did not stop at Orihuela, but I understand that it remains distinct from all other towns in Valencia, in that its people speak pure Castilian. For that variety of the Romance tongue which I may denominate Catalan is spoken with local modifications all along the eastern coast of Spain, from the mouth of the Segura to the frontier of Rousillon. It is not, of course, a mere dialect of Castilian. It is a distinct language, believed by most authorities to have been the language of those Romanized Spaniards who were driven north of the Pyrenees by the Arabic invasion, and who reintroduced it on their reconquest of this portion of their old territory. Before Valencia was recovered by James I. of Aragon--Jaime lo Conqueridor--the Christians of the province probably spoke Castilian or a tongue akin to it. Catalan was simply the language of the new rulers, which the people soon acquired. In the province of Aragon itself Catalan, or Limousin as some call it, was never spoken. This circumstance no doubt powerfully contributed to the adoption of Castilian, in preference to the sister tongue, upon the unification of the two kingdoms. But for some reason unknown to us--unless it was merely the proximity of Murcia--Orihuela resisted the Catalanizing influence of its conqueror.

Elche, our first stopping-place, famous in its way, is very often described and compared to half-a-dozen localities in Asia and Africa. I also will venture on a comparison, and say that from certain points of view it reminded me of Ismailia. It is completely surrounded by magnificent date-palms, the number of which a French author estimates at 80,000. In the shade of the avenues formed by these majestic trees flourish the laurel, the rose, and the geranium; beyond extend crops of lucerne and wheat, watered by the carefully regulated Vinalapó. For all the shade dispersed by the palms, Elche merits its sobriquet, "the frying-pan"! The temperature completes the resemblance with Africa. From the summit of the hill on which it is built, the town is seen to be situated in a real oasis. Beyond the outer ring of cultivation extends a desert as white and as saline as that which borders the Suez Canal. The eye rests lovingly on the not far distant sea.

Elche makes an agreeable impression on most travellers. Gustave Doré has left us his impressions of it--over-imaginative as usual. Mr. Frank Barrett, that entertaining novelist, introduces the town into English fiction. In Spain it is not more celebrated for its palms (which are exported for religious uses) than for its Passion or Mystery Play, the only one of the kind in the kingdom. This institution is explained by the following legend. On the night of December 29, 1370, a mounted coastguard named Francisco Cantó, while patrolling the shore, encountered a man seated on a huge coffer. This stranger entreated the guard to carry his burden to Elche, and to deposit it at the first house where he saw a light, and having obtained his reluctant consent, abruptly disappeared. Cantó, in accordance with the mysterious man's instructions, left the chest at the Hermitage of San Sebastian. On opening it, it was found to contain an image of the Virgin and the words and music of the play as now performed. The image was regarded as miraculous, and resisted all attempts to remove it from the hermitage. It was not my good fortune to see the play, which takes place every year in the Iglesia Mayor, transformed for the purpose into a theatre. The representation lasts two days, the subject being the Assumption of the Virgin. The words, in the old Valencian dialect, are wedded to old Gregorian music. I understand that with a naïveté characteristic of medieval institutions, the Supreme Being Himself is personified on the stage.

A spectacle equally curious but not so picturesque is the daily sale of water, which takes place here as at Lorca, but with official calm and with none of the excitement to be remarked at the latter place.

From this sweltering climate we hasten to the sea-shore, where at rare intervals a refreshing breeze may be felt. Alicante, the second town in the kingdom of Valencia, is modern, commercial, and thriving. The land-locked harbour is bordered by broad white quays, glistering in the sun's rays, with heaps of tarry cordage, and canvas distilling characteristically marine odours. Trains of mules pass by dragging enormous loads of oranges. In the harbour women are busy loading an English craft which flies the Blue Peter; they swarm up and down the side like ants, or rather like the colliers so familiar to passengers through the Suez Canal. The background to this scene of light and animation is formed by the enormous rock, comparable to Gibraltar, which is crowned by the ancient castle of Santa Barbara--so called after the saint on whose festival, in the year 1248, it was taken by the Castilians. Four years later it was stormed by the Aragonese, King Alfonso the Battler being the third to enter the fortress. The Castilian governor, with his sword in one hand and his keys in the other, fell pierced with wounds at the conqueror's feet. The possession of the town, as of Orihuela, was afterwards confirmed to Aragon by treaty.

Alicante is resorted to for sea-bathing during the summer. The water, I am told, is then lukewarm--hot enough, according to one account, to shave with! The thought of the place in August makes the Northerner reach for a cooling drink. But I am assured that the heat is tempered by refreshing breezes from the sea, and that in the long shadow of the castle rock delicious evenings may be enjoyed.

So we journey northward. The country reveals the results of the most systematic and intensive culture. We are told that the Valencians are lazy, but if so it must be because the most cleverly devised schemes of irrigation and cultivation have set them free of labour.

The province of Alicante--the southernmost of the three into which the ancient kingdom is divided--contains several important towns. There is the beautifully-named Villajoyosa, Benidorm--so Provençal in sound--and Alcoy, a busy, industrial centre, situated in a blooming orchard country. Here is celebrated every April the festival of St. George, when a sort of sham fight takes place between peasants arrayed respectively as Moors and Christians. From Alcoy a short line runs to Gandía on the coast, the cradle of the famous house of Borgia.

Every town and village in this thickly peopled region has its historical memories. Villena recalls the famous family to which it gave the title of marquis; Jativa, a desperate struggle during the War of the Spanish Succession, in which much English blood was spilled. This latter town was the birthplace of Ribera, and, as some say, of Alexander Borgia. It is situated in a country which might be described as a veritable Mahomet's paradise. The cottages in the neighbourhood are almost suffocated by the palm and orange trees. Beneath the golden fruit we find our way to the castle, or rather castles--the new and the old--built side by side upon a hill. Part of the fabric dates from the time of the Moors. Later, the stronghold served as a state prison. Within its walls languished and died the unhappy Count of Urgel, a pretender to the throne of Aragon, and here passed a ten years' captivity (1512-22) the Duke of Calabria, the rightful heir to the throne of Naples, to leave his prison on his appointment to the viceroyalty of the fair province he surveyed from its windows!

The custodian of the castle shows the usual underground chambers, which may have been, as he alleges, dungeons, but were quite as likely (as they generally were with us) store-rooms and wine cellars.

At Alcira we cross the Jucár, after the Ebro the most important Spanish river running into the Mediterranean Sea. It rises within a few miles of the source of the Tagus, in the Montes Universales, on the borders of Aragon and New Castile, and flows south through the plains of La Mancha till it enters the province of Albacete, when it takes an easterly course. In the same province of Valencia it has excavated some magnificent gorges. It is indeed a strong, impetuous stream, bursting its banks again and again and levying a heavy tribute on the surrounding country. Each time it makes for itself a new channel, sweeping away whole villages. The village of Alcocer stood on its banks, near its confluence with the Albaida. After countless harvests had been devastated and inestimable damage to some extent repaired, the two streams swelled with fury and in one day reduced a vast extent of country to a flat stretch of mud. Then, by another shifting of its bed, the terrible Jucár laid bare the foundations of the homes it had ruined. There is no security of tenure within its valley! Where your house stands to-day, ships may ride to-morrow. Yet here as everywhere else along the prolific shore, the waters form the great source of wealth, fertilizing vast rice-fields and heavy-laden orchards. The marshy and unhealthy lagoon of the Albufera, from which one of Napoleon's marshals took his title, is being gradually filled up by the débris brought down from the mountains by the rivers, and will ultimately form a "huerta" of untold fertility. Meanwhile every effort is made to encourage the afforesting of the rugged hill-sides, in order to check the violence of the floods and the denuding of the arid, desiccated soil. As a result of these wise measures, the kingdom of Valencia will within a short period become one of the two or three richest agricultural districts in all Europe.

The history of the land is that of its capital. Valencia is first mentioned as having been granted by the consul Junius Brutus to the warriors of Viriathus upon the death of their chief, and their consequent surrender. The history of few Roman colonies, as it has reached us, is of interest. The province had the usual martyrs under the persecutions of Diocletian and Decius, and was the place of banishment of the zealot Ermengild. It remained under the Moorish yoke for over five hundred years, at one time forming part of the khalifate, at other times constituting one or more petty kingdoms.

Don Téodoro Llorente speaks of "The slave kings" of Valencia, and thus describes the rulers of uncertain and various origin who, like the Janissaries of Turkey, had begun as slaves in the palace of the khalifa and won power for themselves with their swords. One of these princes added the Balearic Isles to his realms, and unsuccessfully attempted the conquest of Sardinia.

The kingdom thus founded by military adventurers was overthrown by the most famous of that warlike brood.

The history of the events which brought about the conquest of Valencia by the Cid is extremely complex. The king or amir, Kadir, was the puppet of the rival powers which aspired to the possession of his dominions, and was alternately upheld on his tottering throne by one and the other. Weary of this dishonourable tutelage, the people arose under the leadership of Ibn Jahhaf. Kadir fled disguised as a woman, but was detected and beheaded. That strange anomaly, a Mohammedan republic, was formed. In other words, Valencia was governed by an assembly of notables called the Al Jama, of which Ibn Jahhaf was the president.

The people which arrogates the right to choose its ruler has ever been considered a sort of pirate among the nations, and fair game for more powerful states. Kadir at the moment of his deposition had been nominally under the protection of the Cid. That redoubtable warrior, under the pretext of avenging his protégé's death, advanced on Valencia. The Almoravides came to his assistance, but precipitately retired. Distrusting these allies almost as much as the Christians, Ibn Jahhaf amused the Cid with negotiations, but meanwhile made preparations for defence. He became the special object of the famous warrior's hatred, and when the city fell, was burnt to death at the stake before the eyes of his horrified countrymen. The Cid now ruled Valencia as absolute lord and despot till his death, five years later, in 1097. The legend need not be related here, how his wife defended the city for two years after his death, and finally, setting his corpse fully armed upon his warhorse, won a victory over the terrified Moors and thus took him to his last resting-place at Cardeña.

Valencia was not finally wrested from the yoke of Islam till the memorable 28th of September, 1238, when the standard of the victorious Jaime I. of Aragon was hoisted over the tower of Ali Bufat. In the history of Aragon the conquest ranks with the taking of Seville in the history of Castile. Granada was the joint conquest of both kingdoms. It is curious to compare the ready submission of the Moors, and their surrender of whole kingdoms to the Christians, sometimes as the result of a single battle, with the tenacious resistance offered by their descendants in Algeria in modern times. Enervated by the climate of Spain, the Mussulmans of that country were absolutely incapable of maintaining a prolonged guerrilla warfare. If a fortified capital was taken they at once handed over the whole kingdom to the conqueror. They were not, of course, peculiar in this respect. The sentiment of nationality and physical courage are characteristic far more of the modern than of the ancient world. We have only to compare the resistance of the Anglo-Saxons to the Normans with that of the Boers to the British, of the French in the Hundred Years' War with that of their descendants in 1871, to realize how much more of manliness and endurance we possess than did our ancestors. We must go back to the days of Leonidas and Regulus to find parallels for the exploits of our own Indian army; to Numantia and Saguntum for parallels to Saragossa and Gerona. National and individual self-respect withered under feudalism, and revived only on the introduction of free institutions.

Valencia to-day, as befits the capital of a rich, prosperous province, is a handsome, modern progressive city. There is little or nothing about to remind one of its erstwhile masters, the Moors, and it has not retained more monuments of its past than most other cities. Interesting it is not from the sightseer's point of view, nor convenient from a stranger's, since indications of the names of the streets are few and far between. New avenues are being formed, and in these magnificent houses are arising, all happily in different styles, original and individual, forming a contrast to the dull uniformity of most Continental town perspectives. At two points the town is entered by massive gates of the castellated type--the Torres de Serranos and de Cuarte. The former date from the fourteenth century, and have two octagonal towers with heavy machicolations at two-thirds of their height; the machicolation is continued across the connecting storey, which is richly panelled above the narrow archway. The Torres de Cuarte are drum towers, similarly flanking a gateway; in this case the parapet is itself borne on corbels and machicolated. The work dates from the fifteenth century. These towers add much to the picturesqueness of their respective quarters. The Citadel, in another part of the town, replaces the old temple built in 1238 by the Knights Templars on the spot where the Aragonese planted their cross on entering Valencia. It contains the chapel where St. Vicente Ferrer, "the Angel of the Judgment," took the habit of St. Dominic.

A glance at the Cathedral and the Lonja, and we shall have "done" Valencia in the tourist's sense. The former building was founded in the year 1262 on the site of the principal mosque. In it the Kings of Aragon took the oath as Kings of Valencia. Repeatedly restored, and "modernized" in 1750, it presents a dreadful jumble of styles, and is far behind the cathedrals of Andalusia in beauty and interest. The Micalet Tower, however, rising at the end of the Calle de Zaragoza, presents a striking appearance. It is the great landmark of the district, and the Valencians refer to exile as "losing sight of the Micalet." The view from the summit is very fine. The main entrance to the Cathedral is poor, but the north door, called the Puerta de los Apostoles, richly sculptured and delicately moulded, exhibits the skill and imagery of the fourteenth century at its best.

Above the interesting semicircular Puerta del Palau are seen on medallions the heads of seven men and seven women--these representing the seven knights of the Conquest and the seven ladies (some say of Valencia, and others of Lerida) whom they married. From these alliances sprang the nobility of the province. This doorway was evidently constructed by the architect who designed the Puerta dels Infants at Lerida.

The interior has also suffered by restoration. The pointed arches have been rounded, the Gothic columns almost concealed by Corinthian pilasters, the walls covered with marbles. The effect is rich ("La Rica" is the surname which particularly distinguishes this Cathedral), but much of the religious antique air of the place has gone for ever. The plan is, as usual with Spanish churches, cruciform. The chancel was reconstructed in 1682, but the altar was melted down by the French in 1809. Fortunately the fine panel-shutters made for its protection in the sixteenth century have been preserved. They were carved by a carpenter named Carles, and are painted with scenes from the lives of Christ and the Virgin. These works are ascribed by some to Francisco Pagano and Pablo de San Leocadio, by others to Leonardo da Vinci himself. Hanging to one of the pillars on the Gospel side may be seen the spurs and bridle of Jaime lo Conqueridor, presented by him, on the day he took the city, to his master of the horse, Juan de Perthusa.

Over the crossing rises the fine octagonal lantern, built in 1404 and restored in 1731. The trophies which once adorned it have long since been carried off, among them the flags taken from the Genoese by Ramon Corveran, a famous sea-dog of Valencia.

The pulpit, over which is displayed a picture of St. Vicente Ferrer, was the one from which that zealous missionary actually preached. It can, however, hardly be regarded as a curiosity, as the saint must have preached in nearly every church in the Peninsula, France, and Flanders.

The choir is modern, except the rear portion or "trascoro," which dates from the end of the fifteenth century; and the chapels contain little that is of interest. Tomás de Villanueva, the holy Archbishop of Valencia, is entombed in the chapel dedicated to him. The chapel of another Valencian saint, St. Francis Borgia, is remarkable for a curious picture representing his conversion of a dying man. The penitent is depicted almost nude, and attended by comically fantastic monsters. Another painting shows the saint, as Duke of Gandía, taking leave of his relatives when about to embrace the religious state.

Leaving the Cathedral, we visit the noble Gothic Lonja, or Silk Exchange, built between the years 1482 and 1498 by Pedro Compte. Though not in the purest style, the result is imposing and dignified. A French writer (M. Paul Jousset), not addicted to laudatory language, admits that this building is worth a visit to Valencia to see. Its square tower, its crenellated chimneys, open galleries, and high windows, recall the palace-like châteaux of the Loire. Within is a noble hall divided into three by rows of spirally-fluted columns. The roof is studded with stars, and round the frieze runs the inscription: "He only that shall not have deceived nor done usury, shall be worthy of eternal life." For the commercial integrity of Valencia it is to be hoped that the business men frequenting this exchange keep their eyes fixed on the text. Another public building worthy of attention is the Audiencia, in good Renaissance style, with grand halls adorned by portraits of eminent natives of the province. In the Salon de Cortes, the old provincial States assembled till the middle of the eighteenth century.

The minor churches of Valencia are hardly worth a visit--the less so that in this climate the stranger is generally well content to "laze" his time away. He may do this very pleasantly on the Paseo de la Glorieta or Plaza Principe Alfonso, two charming shady spots, where numerous trees are reflected in the waters of the cool basins. Further off, across the parched Turia, you reach the Alameda, a leafy avenue where fountains diffuse a refreshing dew. And if you should chance to doze on one of the benches, you need not fear interruption. This charming promenade, for some occult reason, is neglected by the citizens.

The picture gallery of Valencia is important. It contains fine specimens of contemporary Spanish art, including works by Sorolla and Benlliure. Ribalta may be studied here, and also the less-known masters of the Valencian school, such as Orrente, March, Espinosa, and Juanes. There used to be several fine private collections in Valencia, but these have all been dispersed.

The country round Valencia is far more interesting than the city. In no other part of Spain, says Mr. Brunhés, has man more successfully combated and reduced natural aridity by irrigation and cultivation; so successfully indeed, that from Gandía to Valencia, for instance, a stretch of 100 kilometres, the gardens succeed each other so closely that it is easy to forget--in spite of the naked slopes on the horizon--that these oases occupy a naturally arid soil. This is, in short, the best cultivated province in the kingdom.

The numberless canals and watercourses which intersect the land in all directions are fed for the most part by the Jucár and Turia--the latter the local stream of Valencia--but every possible source is turned to account. Here the water supply, comprised in the Canal of Moncada and the Seven Canals, belongs to the community, by whom is indirectly elected the famous tribunal which meets every Thursday morning at the Apostles' Gate of the Cathedral.

The sittings of this singular court are the most interesting sight in Valencia. In the plaza a crowd of countryfolk are collected, furiously discussing their affairs and pleading their cases in advance, after the manner of litigants all the world over. Meanwhile the alguazil of the tribunal has disposed an ancient sofa in the shadow of the great Gothic portal and marked off a space before it with a railing. Presently the seven judges arrive--one for each canal. They have the air of well-to-do peasants, and such they are--grave, stoutly-built men, with tanned faces and close-cropped hair. They wear black, the colour beloved by the comfortably-situated working man all the world over; but they have not discarded the native handkerchief round their polished brows or the _espadrilla_, or Valencian shoe. Each is known by the name of the canal which he represents--Mislata, Cuarte, and so forth. These peasant-magistrates having taken their seats, the oldest pronounces the words "Se obri el tribunal" (The tribunal is open). For a moment absolute silence reigns. Then those who have the right to be heard first are introduced within the railing and plead their cause bare-headed before the court. Woe to the insolent wight that dare stand covered in its presence! The alguazil will tear the handkerchief off his head, and he will be mulcted, moreover, in a fine. Anyone who speaks before his turn is fined. The discipline is severe. Each must wait till the president indicates with his foot that it is his turn to be heard. Notwithstanding, the fiery Valencians find it hard to restrain their feelings. At every moment there is an explosion of wrath or indignation, a heated expostulation from one or the other of the parties. The fines thus accumulated must represent a considerable sum. The procedure is entirely verbal; even the judgments are not recorded. But no court exercises more absolute power than the Tribunal de las Aguas of Valencia.

Life in the fertile huerta of Valencia is beautifully described by the great novelist, Blasco Ibañez, a native of the city. The following roughly translated passages, though they convey little idea of the forceful and elegant style of the original, will at least enable the reader to picture a summer in the South:

"When the vast plain awakes in the bluish light of dawn, the last of the nightingales that have sang through the night breaks off abruptly in his final trill, as though he had been stricken by the steely shaft of day. Sparrows in whole coveys burst forth from the thatched roofs, and beneath this aerial rabble preening their wings, the trees shake and nod.

"One by one the murmurs of the night subside--the trickling of watercourses, the sighing of the reeds, the barking of the watchful dogs. Other sounds belonging to the day grow louder and fill the huerta. The crow of the cock is heard from every farm; the village bells re-echo the call to prayer borne across from the towers of Valencia, which are yet misty in the distance; from the farmyards arises a discordant animal concert--the neighing of horses, the bellowing of oxen, the clucking of hens, the bleating of lambs, the grunting of swine--the sounds produced by beasts that scent the keen odour of vegetation in the morning breeze and are hungry for the fields.

"The sky is suffused with light, and with light, life inundates the plain and penetrates to the interior of human and animal abodes. Doors open creaking. In the porches white figures appear, their hands clasped behind their necks, scanning the horizon. From the stables issue towards the city, milch cows, flocks of goats, manure carts. Bells tinkle between the dwarf trees bordering the high road, and every now and again is heard the sharp '_Arre, Aca!_' of the drivers.

"On the thresholds of the cottages those bound for the town exchange greetings with those that stay in the fields: '_Bon dia nos done Deu!_' (May God give us a good day!) '_Bon dia._'

"Immense is the energy, the explosion of life, at midsummer, the best season of the year, the time of harvest and abundance. Space throbs with light and heat. The African sun rains torrents of fire on the land already cracked and wrinkled by its burning caresses, and its golden beams pierce the dense foliage, beneath which are hidden the canals and trenches to save them from the all-powerful vivifying heat.

"The branches of the trees are heavy with fruit. They bend beneath the weight of yellow grapes covered with glazed leaves. Like the pink cheeks of a child glow the apricots amid the verdure. Children greedily eye the luscious burden of the fig trees. From the gardens is wafted the scent of the jasmin, and the magnolias dispense their incense in the burning air laden with the perfume of the cereals.

"The gleaming scythe has already sheared the land, levelling the golden fields of wheat and the tall corn stalks, which bowed beneath their heavy load of life. The hay forms yellow hills which reflect the colour of the sun. The wheat is winnowed in a whirlwind of dust; in the naked fields among the stubble, sparrows hop from spot to spot in search of stray gleanings. Everywhere are happiness and joyous labour. Waggons go groaning down the road; children frolic in the fields and among the sheaves, thinking of the wheaten cakes in prospect and of the lazy, pleasant life which begins for the farmer when his barn is filled. Even the old horses stride along more gaily, cheered by the smell of the golden grain which will flow steadily into their mangers as the year rolls on.

"When the harvest has levelled the panorama and cleared the great stretches of wheat sprinkled with poppies, the plain seems vast, almost illimitable. Farther than the eye can reach stretch its great squares of red soil marked off by paths and trenches. The Sunday's rest is rigorously observed over the whole countryside. Not a man is seen toiling in the fields, not a beast at work on the road. Down the paths pass old women with their mantillas drawn over their eyes and their little chairs hanging to their arms. In the distance resound, like the tearing of linen, the shots fired at the swallows, which fly hither and thither in circles. A noise seems to be produced by their wings ruffling the crystal firmament. From the canals rises the murmur of clouds of almost invisible flies. In a farm all painted blue under an ancient arbour there is a whirlwind of gaily coloured shawls and petticoats, while the guitars with their drowsy rhythm and the strident cornets accompany the measures of the Valencian Jota.

"In the village the little plaza is thronged with the field folk. The men are in their shirt sleeves, with black sashes and gorgeous handkerchiefs arranged mitre-like on their heads. The old men lean on their big Liria sticks. The young men, with sleeves turned up, display their red nervous arms and carry mere sprigs of ash between their huge knotted fingers.

"In the afternoon, towards the fountain, along the road bordered with poplars which shake their silvered foliage, go groups of girls with their pitchers on their heads. Their rhythmical movements and their grace recall the Athenian canephoræ. This procession to the well lends to the huerta of Valencia something of a biblical character. The Fontana de la Reina is the pride of the huerta, condemned to drink the water of wells and the red and dirty liquid of the canals. It is esteemed as an ancient and valuable work. It has a square basin with walls of reddish stone. The water is below the soil. You reach the bottom by means of six green and slippery steps. Opposite the steps is a defaced bas-relief, probably a Virgin attended by angels--no doubt an ex-voto of the time of the Conquest. Laughter and chatter are not wanting round the well. The girls cluster round, eager to fill their pitchers but in no hurry to depart. They jostle each other on the steps, their petticoats gathered in between their legs, the better to lean forward and to plunge their vessels into the basin. The surface of the water is unceasingly troubled by the bubbles rising from the sandy bed, which is covered with weeds waving in the current."

INDEX

Abades, No. 6, 70

Abbad, Mohammed Ben, 22

Abdallah, Ahmed Ben, 21

Abd-el-Aziz, 19

Abd-ur-Rahman, 89

Abd-ur-Rahman III., 21

Abu-l-Walid, 115

Adra, 168

Ælii, 16

Ahmar, Mohammed al, 27, 113

Alarcos, 26

Albaicin, 148

Alcazaba, 129

Alcazares, 35

Alcazar Genil, 161

Alcoy, 190

Alfonso VI., 24, 25, 98

Alfonso X., 114

Alfonso the Battler, King, 189

Alfonso the Learned, 4, 181

Al Hakem II., 90

Alhama, 121

Alhambra, The, 124

Alicante, 189

Al Mansûr, 90

Almeria, 168

Almohades, 26, 30, 112

Almoravides, 26, 112, 194

Aragon, Don Jaime of, 179

Arfe, Juan de, 60, 96

Aurariola, 178

Az Zahara, 97

Barbuda, Don Martin de la, 102, 119

Baths, 143

Bekr, Abu, 179

Belludo, 145

Ben Hud, 27, 113

Biblioteca Colombina, 35

Boabdil, 121

Cadiz, 1

Cadiz, Marquis of, 121

Cæsar, Julius, 16

Campaña--_See_ Kempener

Campillo, 160

Cano, Alonso, 66, 75, 155, 165

Caños de Carmona, 81

Capilla Real, 152

Cartagena, 182

Carthaginians, 3, 14, 15

Cartuja, 84, 158

Casa de Bustos Tavera, 70

Casa del Carbon, 147

Casa de los Tiros, 160

Casa de Pilatos, 66

Cathedral, 50, 151, 155, 165, 196

Cespedes, Pablo de, 75, 103

Charles V., 95

Cid Campeador, Ruy Diaz de Bivar, 112, 193

Colon, Fernando, 57

Columbus, Christopher, 56, 160

Cordova, 86

Cornejo, Duque, 95, 96

Coronel, Doña Maria, 38

Cortes, Hernando, 83

Court of the Lions, 137

Cuarto de Santo Domingo, 160

Dance of the Seises, 81

Dávalos, Leonor, 38

Delicias Gardens, 77

Dios, San Juan de, 156

Drake, Sir Francis, 4

Elche, 187

El Greco, 60

Enrique III., 119

Ermengild, 18, 193

Ermita de San Sebastian, 160

"Esperandola del Cielo," 149

Essex, Earl of, 5

Exilona, 19

Fadrique, Don, 46

Fair of Seville, 79

Ferdinand and Isabella, 121

Fernandez, Alejo, 85

Fernando el Magno, 24

Ferrer, St. Vincent, 35

Frutet, 75

Gandía, 190

Gandia, Duke of, 157

Generalife, The, 146

Gibralfaro, 164

Gibraltar, 173

Giordano, Luca, 58

Gipsies, 84

Giralda Tower, 31

Gongora, 95

Goya, 60

Granada, 107

Great Captain, 102, 156

Guadalquivir, The, 9

Guzman el Bueno, 83

Hajjaj, Ibrahim Ibn, 20

Hall of the Two Sisters, 139

Halls of the Abencerrages, 139

Hasan, Mulai, 121

Hernandez (Gonzalo), de Aguilar y de Cordova, "the Great Captain," 102, 156

Herrera, 58, 61, 66

Herrera, The Older, 75

Illiberis, 111

"Intransigentes," 182

Irrigation, 175, 200

Isidore, St., 19

Ismaïl, Saïd Ben, 121

Italica, 15, 17, 18, 82

Jaime lo Conqueridor, 186, 194, 198

Jativa, 190

Jerez, 10

Juan II., 16

Jucár, 191

Junteron, Don Gil, 181

Kadir, 193

Kempener, Peter, 55, 58, 59

La Caridad, 74

"Las Navas de Tolosa," 26

La Trinidad, 19

Leal, Valdés, 58, 59, 74, 75

Leander, 18

Lebrija, 11

Leovgild, 18

Levi, Simuel Ben, 37

Lonja, 196, 199

Lorca, 175

Lucan, 16

Majus, 21

Malaga, 163

Malecon, 180

Marana, Miguel de, 73

Mena, Juan de, 104

Mezquita, 88

Mihrab, 144

Mirador de "Lindaraja," 142

Mohammed II., 114

Mohammed III., 114

Mohammed IV., 116

Mohammed V., 117, 171

Mohammed VI., 119

Mohammed VII., 121

Mohammed VIII., 121

Mohammedan Paintings, 140

Montañez, 58, 60, 66, 75, 83

Mote'mid, 23

Motril, 168

Munda, 170

Murcia, 174, 179, 180

Murillo, 8, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61, 73, 74, 75, 76

Musa, 19

Museo of Seville, 74

Musset, Alfred de, 7, 12, 71

Mut'adid-billah, Amir, 22

Muwallads, 20

Nasr, Abu-l-Juyyush Muley, 115

Northmen, 21

Omnium Sanctorum, 65

Oratory, 144

Orihuela, 178, 186

Osorio, Doña Urraca, 38

Padilla, Maria de, 46

Palace of Charles V., 131

Palace of St. Telmo, 76

Palacio de las Dueñas, 70

Palomino, 95

Paredes, Doña Maria de Guzman, 95

Patio de Daraxa, 142

Patio de la Alberca, 135

Patio de las Arrayanes, 135

Patio de las Muñecas, 45

Patio de los Naranjos, 34

Patio "del Mexuar," 134

Pedro the Cruel, 36

Phœnicians, The, 2, 14

Pineda, Doña Mariana, 157

Plaza de Bibarrambla, 151

Poore, Lawrence, 28

Puerta de Hierro, 144

Puerta de la Justicia, 128

Puerta del Lagarto, 53

Puerta del Perdon, 34

Puerta del Vino, 130

Puerto Santa Maria, 10

Pulgar, Fernando del, Lord of El Salar, 152

Ramon Bonifaz, 27

Recchiarus, 17

Ribera, 190

Robles, Joao de, 156

Roelas, Juan de las, 58, 65, 75

Roldán, Pedro, 61

Romanticists, 6, 7

Ronda, 170

Rueda, Lope de, 95

Sacromonte, 158

Saïd, Abu, 37, 118, 171

St. Ferdinand, 27, 55, 95

St. Isidore, 24

St. Justa, 84

St. Rufina, 84

St. Vicente Ferrer, 196, 198

Sala de la Justicia, 140

Sala de los Embajadores, 136

Salambo, 15, 84

Salon de los Embajadores, 44

San Geronimo, 156

Santa Ana, 85

Santa Paula, 64

Santo Domingo, 160

Scipio, 15

Seneca, 16

Seville, 12

Siloe, Diego de, 156, 165

Suevi, 17

Talavera, Archbishop de, 123

Tarik, 19

Tarshish, 3

Tendilla, Count of, 123

Theodomir, 178

Theudis, 17

Theudisel, 17

Tocador de la Reina, 143

Todmir, 179

Torre de Cuarte, 196

Torre de Serranos, 196

Torre del Agua, 145

Torre del Homenage, 130

"Torre del Oro," 29

Torre de la Cautiva, 145

Torre de la Vela, 129

Torre de las Damas, 144

Torre de las Infantas, 145

Torre de los Picos, 144

Torre de los Siete Suelos, 145

Torres Bermejas, 127

Tower of Comares, 136

Triana, 84

Tribunal de las Aguas, 201

Turdetani, 14

University Church, Seville, 65

Utrera, 11

Valdes, 75

Valencia, 192, 195

Vandals, 16

Vargas, Luis de, 34, 58, 59, 75

Velazquez, 75

Velez Chapel, 182

Vermilion Towers, 125

Vigarni, 153

Visigoths, 17

Yusuf I., 117

Yusuf II., 119

Yusuf III., 120

Yusuf IV., 121

Zacatin, 150

Zaghal, 122

Zahara, 121, 171

Zayda, 25

Zegri, Hamet el, 164

Ziryab, 101

Zurbaran, 58, 60, 75