PART III.

TECHNICAL.

PRELIMINARY ADVICE.

We would very strongly recommend the beginner to make his first efforts on some one or other of the good snow conditions described on pp. 21 and 22. Freshly fallen deep snow is especially to be avoided, for not only does it afford heavy and difficult going, but a fall in it is apt to be dangerous. This is, of course, the reverse of what one would expect; but what happens is that the ski sink in deeply, and in the event of a fall they are apt to stick and sprain the ankle or knee. The firmer the snow the better it is, provided always that it be of sufficient depth and that it be fair snow, and not ice-crust.

All things considered, we would advise the beginner to learn to go slowly before he learns to go fast. That is to say, as soon as he can run straight fairly well, we would have him learn how to regulate his speed and steer by means of what is known as “stemming” (see _infra_, p. 69). In practising this movement he will at the same time learn how to balance himself with the weight on one foot, a necessary accomplishment; for, though in ski-running both ski are usually kept on the ground, _the weight is nearly always mainly on one foot_. It is well to pause and try to appreciate this very important fact before reading further.

After he has learnt something of stemming, and provided that he has followed our instructions and used his pole as little as possible (and then only as we direct), he should not find much difficulty in acquiring some speed in glissading. He should then begin to take short tours of, say, an hour or two’s duration, gradually lengthening them as his proficiency increases. _He should when on tour endeavour to apply the knowledge which he has gained on the practice ground, and on the practice ground he should try to overcome those difficulties which he has encountered on tour._ There is no sense in keeping on climbing up and sliding straight down the same easy hill; yet such is the commonest form of ski-ing at fashionable Swiss winter resorts!

As soon as the beginner can “turn on the spot,” run straight fairly well, and “stem,” he _can_ (we do not say he _should_) go where he pleases. He will, however, remain slow and awkward, and he will miss a great deal of the beauty of the sport if he rests content with these easy accomplishments. We trust that he will be of a more ambitious disposition, and that he will proceed to the mastery of the “S” turn and of the “Telemark” and “Christiania” swings; and we strongly recommend him to learn something of jumping, not only on account of the amusement which he will certainly derive from it, but because it is the very best means of gaining a good balance for ordinary running.

It is of the greatest importance to cultivate a freedom and elasticity of movement and position. The muscles should be as strong as iron, but as flexible as rope. The knees should be pliant, and should act like the springs of a carriage in relation to the rest of the body. Be watchful, but courageous, and try hard not to fall.

LEAN FORWARD!

Lean forward is the watchword of the ski-runner, and it is just as well to explain what is meant by it before proceeding further.

Place your ski parallel, one about a foot in front of the other, and throw the body forward as much as possible; one ought to feel as if about to fall on one’s nose. To the onlooker one seems to be standing on the _entire_ sole of the foot, but in reality all the weight rests on the front part and the toes. Thus, stand erect on the ski, the knees a little bent, and then lean forward without bending any part of your body (especially not the region of the hips) and without raising the heel; then you ought to feel what is meant. Never assume a position as if sitting down or about to do so, because that would press down the heel. Every violation of this great rule of leaning forward is punished by the ski “bolting” from under one.

TO LIFT THE POINT OF THE SKI.

To lift the point of the ski seems a very simple matter, but it is at least ten to one that the novice will do it wrong. Press the heel of the ski down on the ground with your heel, and lift the point upwards with your toe. _Do not raise any part of your foot from the ski._

To lift the heel of the ski reverse the above. Here it will not be possible to keep the heel of the foot on the heel of the ski, but the binding will raise the latter from the ground to some extent.

TURNING ON THE SPOT.

Turning on the spot is a puzzle to the beginner, though simple when shown.

Lift one ski straight to the front (see Fig. 13 (1)), putting the heel end as far away from you as you can, then turn it outwards and away from you smartly, swinging the point right round and leaving the heel resting on the snow, then put it down, point by heel, alongside of the other ski. This twisted position (Fig. 13 (2)) is the only difficulty, but very few attempts will soon show that it is not so bad or cramped as it seemed at first. In this position hold the knees slightly bent. Lastly, _raise the point_ of the other ski and swing it round. You will find it easier to learn this movement with the assistance of your stick, which should first be held obliquely across the body, pointing in the opposite direction to that in which you are turning. Then after assuming position (2) shift it across as in (3), and lastly swing round the other ski. As soon as you are proficient with the help of the stick practise without it--and, of course, both to right and to left. It is not necessary to stand on the snow in order to learn these movements. The carpet will do, but remove all Dresden china from the immediate neighbourhood.

WALKING WITH SKI ON THE LEVEL.

Walking with ski on the level differs from ordinary walking or skating in this, that _one must not strike out_, there being no fulcrum or point of resistance. Keep the ski _parallel_ and _as close together as possible_ (closer than shown in the diagram), for a narrow spoor has many advantages, besides being “good form.” Throw the weight of the body forward and _slide on the advanced leg_; the “hind” leg must be absolutely disengaged--that is to say, do not strike out by trying to press the snow with it. Begin with long, slow steps, lunging forward with bent knee (Fig. 14). Do not lift the ski from the ground, but slide along regularly and conscientiously; do not hurry or flurry, but save your breath. In one’s first steps one must specially cultivate precision, sliding forward with ski exactly parallel, and distributing the weight properly. Lean forward! slide![7]

A single stick on the level is of but little service, but with two sticks the pace can be considerably increased, especially on a good firm surface. Both sticks should be thrown forward simultaneously, and the slide on the advanced leg accelerated by a vigorous push with both arms. When proceeding in this way it is well to observe some kind of rhythm; and, as the snow is seldom slippery enough to admit of a push at each step, one should run, for example, one, two, three steps (swinging the sticks forward), and then push with the arms, sliding on, say, the right leg; then run one, two, three steps and push, sliding on the left leg, and so on.

UP-HILL.

To the laity it is a matter for wonder how it is possible to climb any considerable hill at all on ski. We remember well the look of polite incredulity which passed across the face of a mountaineering friend some years ago when we told him that a certain well-known pass in the Alps had been traversed in winter. He had tried ski himself, but had made very little of them, and the pass in question is a stiff one to negotiate even in summer. But now long climbs on ski in winter have become so common that it is unnecessary to pursue the subject further than to quote the classical observation of Olaus Magnus, “There exists no mountain, however high, which by means of cunning by-ways he (the ski-runner) cannot surmount.”

It is, however, well to observe here that some of the accounts of the ease with which one can climb hills on ski have been exaggerated. In rare conditions of perfect snow one may perhaps ascend as quickly as in summer, but, roughly speaking, it may be said that ski are about twenty-five per cent. slower up-hill than boots. We are here, of course, speaking of climbing a steep mountain where it is necessary to zig-zag (see _infra_), and not of walking straight up a moderate slope. Moreover, whether we slide the ski upwards in winter or whether we carry a corresponding weight on our backs in summer, the fact remains that some 10lb. or so have to be raised so many feet, and we are handicapped to that extent. Where ski really have the advantage is after the summit has been reached--of which more anon.

Up to a certain degree of steepness (varying with the quality of the snow) there is little or no difference between the methods used for climbing and for walking on the level. Snow is not an absolutely slippery substance, and the ski always adhere to it to some extent. There comes, however, very soon a point beyond which we can no longer slide as on the level, and shortly after-wards another, where the force of gravity overcomes the “stickiness” of the snow and we begin to slip back. These points are very different with the expert and the beginner, and the former will slide easily straight up a slope upon which the latter will slip hopelessly.

In ascending a steep incline the art lies (1) in knowing (and only experience can teach one) just how steeply one can go without a slip; (2) in the correct placing of the ski in the snow; and (3) in the correct balancing of the body upon the ski when so placed. The correct placing of the ski is not a difficult matter. The secret lies in raising the point of the ski (see p. 53) an inch or two from the ground and bringing it _straight_ down with a _firm_ stamp. The stamp is at first nearly always made too gently by ladies and too hard by men. Imagine you are cracking a walnut--that will be about right. Remember that _where the foot is brought down there it must stop_. If it slips even the least tiny bit you must stamp again.

Next bring the weight forward as evenly as possible on to the ski you have stamped, and advance the other leg. In doing so take the greatest care to balance the weight of the body _straight over_ the stamped ski; lean neither backwards nor forwards, or you are certain to slip.

In hill-climbing it is, of course, expedient to go as steeply as possible, but the beginner will find that it pays best to take things easily at first, as a single slip backwards is more exhausting than twenty steps forwards.

To negotiate a steep slope one must go across and upward at a convenient angle, making a zig-zag track, as an engineer would plan a good mountain road (Fig. 15). Turn at the corners as described, p. 55, and when so doing remember to assume a safe standing position, for a slip on a steep slope may be attended by unpleasant consequences. The correct position in which to stand before turning is clearly with the ski horizontally in space--that is to say, at right angles to the direction of the gradient; then one cannot slip while engrossed in the task.

The diagrams on page 59 show two other methods of hill-climbing which are chiefly useful for short slopes. They are both too fatiguing to be employed for any length of time. A modification of the style shown in Fig. 17 is, however, very useful, especially on crusted snow. It consists in going forwards and upwards at the same time, lifting the ski at every step. This is not so very tiring, and may on a hard surface be kept up for a considerable length of time without undue fatigue. The track formed will appear as under.

It is important when proceeding in this way to remember, when lifting the _upper_ ski, _to raise its heel from the snow_ (see p. 55) _and place it well up-hill in a horizontal position_. Most beginners move only the front part of the ski, and place it in the snow with the heel pointing down hill. Even if the upper ski does not slip in this wrong position (as usually happens), the lower ski, when it comes to be lifted, is sure to be placed across the heel of the upper ski, imprisoning it and preventing the next step being taken. You are certain to make this mistake very frequently at first, and it will land you in all sorts of difficulties and entanglements, but do not forget that we warned you against it.

A single stick is not of any very positive assistance up-hill, though it has a negative value on _very_ steep ground both in aiding the balance and in giving a feeling of security against slipping. In traversing a slope it should be held across the body with the point touching the snow on the upper side. The beginner will also find it useful to assist him in rising to his feet after a fall. He should, however, entirely abandon all idea of pulling himself up-hill with his stick; to do so is quite impossible. Balance is what is required, _plus_ a little thigh muscle, which will come with practice.

Two sticks are, however, of considerable help, especially on moderate slopes up which it is possible to go straight. They should be placed in the snow alternately, after the manner which nature dictates. In traversing steep ground they cease to be of service, for the lower one is not long enough to reach the slope below one’s feet, and the upper one cannot be used effectively on the bank at one’s side. Under such circumstances it is better, and safer, to hold them together and to use them as one, as described above.

In general for long climbs it is best to go comparatively slowly and to “keep at it.” The speed of a party should be that of the slowest man. If you happen to be that unfortunate individual, don’t lag behind if you can help it, but don’t hesitate to shout to the others if they are going too fast for you. If, however, they are novices and persist in rushing, slow down and go your own pace. It is not at all improbable that if you go steadily you may be the first at the top, after all; but even if you arrive twenty minutes later than the others you are in no wise dishonoured.

Strictly between ourselves, we rather like to be last man, and to allow our more energetic friends to go on ahead. The last man has far the easiest place on a newly made track, and we do not thirst for the glory of breaking the snow.

But, of course, a properly organised party should keep together, and its members should take it in turns to go ahead. It is in itself a pleasure to move steadily upwards in this way, the ski and the sticks keeping time, and it makes the way seem shorter and easier for everybody.

One concluding word of advice may here be given. Eat your lunch some little distance below your intended highest point. The tops of mountains and passes are apt to be draughty, and, besides, it is much better to begin the run down when the muscles are warm and supple than to wait till after they have turned cold and stiff from sitting about.

GLIDING DOWN.

Gliding down is the characteristic part of ski-running, as distinct from the use of pattens, Canadian snow-shoes, &c. It is the reward reaped after the labours of the climb. The ascent is, indeed, a struggle against gravity, but the descent is the highest advantage that any physical exercise can safely derive from terrestrial attraction.

Let us imagine ourselves on the top of some long Norwegian mountain ready for the plunge. There is a clear course between the steep rocks near the top, and an open run across the glacier below to the terminal moraine a mile off. We can see every yard of the way, and all is fair going, yet we feel just the merest tinge of nervousness, for the incline is steep, and looks steeper than it is. But there is really no danger, so it is over the edge and off! In an instant all fears are left behind, for now balance and quickness of eye are to be put to the test, and the wind is whistling and the snow dust spurting. We whiz past the rocks and over a few inequalities, negotiated here by a spring and a flight of a few yards through the air and there by a compensating yielding of the knees. Now we rush out on to the smooth surface of the glacier, where there is no jar and no vibration. Our feet seem to have vanished, and we lean, as it were, in space, with the ice-wind pressed against us. There is no more need for balancing, and no thought of falling, so even is the motion and so trustworthy the snow. Smoothly our wooden wings bear us onwards, and the furlongs lie behind! But the end approaches, the slope becomes less steep, the pace slackens, and presently we glide gently up the opposite slope of the moraine and turn to watch our companions.

Such is the best picture we can give you of a good straight glissade on ski; but there is not the slightest reason, friend novice, why you yourself should not enjoy the reality ere long. You must, however, learn to walk before you can run, and we would have you make your first attempts on some quite easy slope, removed if possible from the public gaze. A few obstacles, such as trees, scattered about do not matter, as you are not in the least likely to run into them, and they serve to accustom the eye to their presence. If possible, let there be a gradual outrun at the bottom of the hill. Practise there awhile, and as soon as you can run down without a fall move on somewhere else to a place where the ground is steeper and more uneven.

To start on steep ground is a little difficult at first. Stand horizontally to the direction of the slope. Then _as quickly as possible_ lift round first the lower and then the upper ski. Lean forward and off! If you are quick and lean forward, the ski will not bolt from under you; if you are slow and hang back, they will.

The correct position for descending a hill is that shown in Fig. 18 (1) above. Keep the ski parallel and _as close together as you can_ (touching if possible), advance one foot about twelve inches, and let the main weight of the body rest on the ball of the “hind” foot; feel your way, so to speak, with the front foot. _Lean forward. Bend the knees slightly, and be as free and as elastic about them as possible._ Practise with either foot leading. Avoid any affected and ridiculous pose. Do not, for example, if you are running without a stick, hold the arms straight out from the body as though you were walking a tight-rope. To do so may slightly assist the balance, but you cannot run like this with a stick in your hand, and it is far better not to get into bad habits. No. 3 in the diagram (p. 63) is a very common attitude, but it is as bad as bad can be. The wide spoor is a cause of instability, the _extreme_ bending of the knee is a source of weakness, and there is a very fair chance of the runner (if he falls forward) knocking out his front teeth against his stick. Hold that article _clear of the ground_ in a safe position as shown (No. 1, p. 63), and practise sometimes without it. _Above all things, do not lean backwards on to the pole_, for the consequence of so doing is that the upper part of the body is retarded in its speed, and, being thus left further and further behind, a spill on lumpy ground becomes inevitable. There is a right way of using the pole for braking and turning, which will be explained further on, but until some little skill in simple straight glissading is gained it is best not to trouble about this. We strongly advise you in the meanwhile not to use the stick at all, but, for reasons previously stated (see pp. 44 and 45), to practise with it held in the hand clear of the ground.

Double sticks should be held up one in each hand or trailed behind.

The position shown in Fig. 18 (1) is the safest position for running over unbroken snow, for by advancing the foot one lengthens the running surface and so glides more easily over any inequalities, and by holding the ski together one is less disturbed by any lateral irregularities. But on an icy road it will be found easier to run with the feet more level and somewhat apart, for there another disturbing factor, side slip, comes into play.

So, again, when changes of the snow’s surface are likely to occur, causing the ski at one time to run freely and at another to stick, it will be found better to crouch close down to the ground, for by doing so one lowers the centre of gravity, and is less likely to be pitched forward when entering the slow snow. And there will be other occasions when the runner will find it necessary to more or less modify the position shown in Fig. 18 (1). Nevertheless, this attitude may safely be considered the _normal_ one for descending hills on ski, and the beginner is recommended to study it carefully, and to adhere to it as closely as circumstances will permit.

FALLING AND GETTING UP.

As to the former, we beg to offer Mr. Punch’s advice to those about to marry--“don’t.” Every ski-runner falls more or less, the beginner very much, the expert very rarely. But most novices are apt to throw themselves down far oftener than there is any occasion for. Do not, therefore, give up simply because you lose your balance a little; very frequently if you try hard you will be able to keep upright. If you make up your mind to “stand” down a difficult hill, the chances are that you will succeed in doing so; but if you are nervous and hang back, you are almost certain to come to grief. It is specially true of ski-running that fortune favours the brave. When, however, a fall cannot be avoided, we would advise you, if possible, to cast yourself down sideways and backwards; but if the whole affair is beyond your control, then relax every muscle in your body and let yourself go. Make no attempt to save yourself or stop rolling. Then there will be no snapping of tense sinews.

You will generally find out the easiest way of getting up for yourself, but two little artifices may here be mentioned. One is to get on to the back of your ski in deep snow; and the other is to bring the ski below you on a steep slope and to place them at right angles to the gradient before attempting to rise.

SLIGHT CHANGES OF DIRECTION.

Slight changes of direction can be made by leaning the body a little this way or that. This is very easy, and requires no explanation.

“SKATING.”

Another way of steering is to lift one of the ski and place it down in the direction in which one wishes to go, at the same time striking out with the other foot as in skating. This accomplishment is not exactly pretty, but it is very useful. One can thus help the ski round a bend in a road or thread one’s way down a gentle slope amongst trees without losing speed. It is, however, impossible to execute a very rapid turn in this manner. A good way of practising “skating” is to do a sort of “inside edge” on any firm surface (_e.g._, a snow-covered lake) on the level. One strikes out with the ski in the same manner as with skates on ice.

BRAKING WITH THE STICK.

This method of controlling the speed has been the subject of a good deal of discussion. The objections to it are (1) that it is a less powerful method than any of the others to be mentioned later on; (2) that it requires greater strength; (3) that the stick is liable to break and leave the runner helpless; (4) that _its constant use is conducive to a bad style of running, spoiling the balance, and making the learning of the other movements more difficult_. Nevertheless, we doubt whether even the cleverest novice will be able to stop quickly by means of the “Telemark” or “Christiania” swings for at least a month or two, and most people will take far longer to learn to do them even moderately well. How, then, are the poor things to manage in the meantime? “By snow-ploughing and by stemming,” you reply. Certainly, but the fact is that with these methods when no stick is used it is quite impossible, when travelling very fast, to stop suddenly, though with the help of the stick it is easy to do so.

But we will here go a step further and assert that there are places and conditions of snow where the use of the stick becomes imperative even to the expert, as, for example, when traversing a steep and crusted slope with a precipice below it. We propose therefore, to deal with the proper way of managing it before proceeding further.

_The important thing to remember in using the stick is to hold it quite short_, and _as far in front as possible_. Do not let it drag behind.

The accompanying diagrams illustrate a right and a wrong method. Note that in (1) the left forearm and hand of the runner should rest against the inside of the shin of his left (advanced) leg. The left hand serves as a fulcrum, the long end of the lever being held in the right. Considerable power may be obtained in this manner, but it is not always feasible on lumpy ground. You must use your own judgment as to when to employ it, bearing in mind the above principle. But, above all things, do not assume the position depicted in (2). Here, even though the entire weight of the body rests on the stick, its braking value (owing to the angle at which it touches the snow) is very slight. In this position the ski gradually slide further and further ahead, leaving the stick, with the runner clinging to it, further and further behind; all balance and all control are lost, and as soon as a little inequality is met with a spill occurs.

There exists a way of sitting with the _thigh_ on the pole (_not_ with the junction of the legs) for braking on narrow, steep, and icy roads, where all other means are simply out of the question (see Fig. 20); and for the successful execution of this manœuvre it is necessary to note the following points very carefully. Assuming one wishes to sit on the left thigh, then the left hand grasps the end of the pole which protrudes below. Let this hand be close to the seat, and let the part of the stick between hand and point be as short as possible. The right hand _rests on the right knee_, and seizes the upper end of the pole. This is important, for it is the use of the knee as a support for the upper hand which gives rigidity to the whole arrangement and allows one to hold out over long distances. The leg--the one on which one sits (in the example to the left)--is stretched out in front, and by shifting the weight from the ski to the point of the pole one can stop instantly, even on clear ice.

SNOW-PLOUGHING.

We now come to a better method of stopping and braking. Snow-ploughing is used for reducing the pace and stopping _when running straight down_. In principle it is very simple, and it is quite easy to learn. The heels of the ski are pressed apart, and the toes held together, by which means a V-shaped kind of plough is formed, the friction of which against the snow causes one to stop. The wider the angle of the V the greater, of course, will be the braking power. The weight is distributed evenly between the two ski, and when the snow is hard both are turned slightly on to their inner edges. When the snow is soft it is best to hold them flat. The method is particularly serviceable on a hard road, and under such conditions, even when travelling fast, it can be employed quite suddenly without fear of accidents. But on soft snow any attempt to use it when running fast will result in the ski crossing and a fall forwards. Under such conditions nobody has strength enough to hold the ski apart. One must accordingly stop (by some other means) and then, if one wishes to proceed slowly, place the ski in the V-shaped position and restart.

The stick is a useful adjunct to snow-ploughing, and Fig. 21 shows a serviceable way of holding it.

SIDE-SLIPPING.

On _very_ steep slopes, especially if such be icy, it is sometimes necessary to slip down sideways. This is simply accomplished by holding the ski at right angles to the fall of the slope and keeping them _flat_ on the snow (or ice-crust) instead of edging them. The stick is held in the snow above the runner, and assists him in preserving his balance, for the motion is necessarily somewhat irregular. Side-slipping is, however, nothing but a method of descending a dangerous slope where snow-ploughing, “stemming,” &c. (see _infra_), are out of the question. It is not amusing or pretty, but merely occasionally useful.

STEMMING.

Stemming is akin to snow-ploughing, and by some German writers the stemming position is termed the half-snow-plough position. It is a most valuable way of reducing the speed when _traversing_ a slope which one does not desire to, or cannot, descend straight, and it is also of great service for turning and stopping under all circumstances. Whilst of ancient origin and known to all good Norwegian runners, stemming is but little used in Norway. The chief reasons for this are that the ground in that country is not in general steep enough to necessitate traversing, and that most Norwegians are from early childhood familiar with the more difficult Telemark and Christiania swings. On the Continent, however, the ground is usually steeper and the skill of the runner less, and there stemming has been found to be very useful. We have no hesitation in recommending the beginner to learn it at this stage if he wants to tour as soon as possible, and eventually to become a good all-round ski-runner.

At Lilienfeld, a small village near Vienna, stemming was hit upon, quite independently, by a Herr Zdarsky (an Austrian gentleman to whom we have already referred), who turned a philosophical mind to its scientific development. The description which we give of it is practically the same as that given in his book. Herr Zdarsky recommends the use of his own special binding, and employs a shortish, smooth-bottomed ski with a bluff entrance. We have found, however, that the movements can be made with any good firm binding and with any ski, though they are undoubtedly easier, both to learn and to accomplish, on a flat-bottomed short ski, than on a relatively long and grooved ski. (See p. 32.)

In learning stemming one distinguishes between the “glider” (the sliding ski) and the “braker” (the stemming ski). On a hillside the glider is the upper of the two. The glider must point in the direction in which one wishes to go. The lower ski, the braker, is kept a little behind the other, so as to prevent the glider crossing it, and is held in the position shown in the above diagram (Fig. 22). In order to ensure smooth and accurate progress it is highly important to remember to _keep both ski flat on the snow_.

Begin by running obliquely across and down a good steep slope in this position, _keeping all the weight of the body on the glider, and merely brushing the snow lightly with the braker_. Choose a gradient of sufficient steepness to keep you moving at a rate of, say, three or four miles an hour, and endeavour to run smoothly and to keep in a straight line.

In practising this you will discover that by pressing more or less on the braker you can turn up-hill, stop, or go slow, just as you please. We accordingly formulate directions for so doing.

TO TURN UP-HILL.--Press lightly on the braker, edging it into the snow.

TO STOP.--Press hard, and turn the body up-hill. You will find yourself come round with a swing. This method of stopping can, of course, be used anywhere--_e.g._, on the level after running straight down, where, if one wishes to stop by (say) a turn to the right, one stems with the left ski, at the same time turning the body to the right.

TO SLIGHTLY REDUCE THE SPEED.--Press a little on the braker without altering your direction.

Practise these three things patiently, constantly remembering the injunctions: Glider flat! Weight on glider! (or on braker, to stop!) Lean forward! Heels apart! Points together! (which latter means that one must keep the tip of the braker close to the _side_ of the glider, and about a foot behind its tip).

On hard snow both ski will have to be edged so as to afford a grip on the impenetrable surface and to prevent side-slip. And between the extremes of the softest and the hardest snow the runner will discover many instances where he may have to edge the braker a little while going. But let him, all the same, interpret these remarks as absolutely as he can, and always try hard to hold the ski _as flat as possible_.

_Practise on steep ground_, because there mistakes are more easily discovered, and the correct way soon proclaims its advantages.

Fig. 23 illustrates the proper position for the ski in stemming. The arrow “s” is the fall of the slope, for the reader is looking straight at the mountain; “d” is the direction in which the runner wishes to go obliquely across this slope. This direction is on the whole that of the glider “g.” The braker “b” brushes the snow with its entire length, thus producing a _broad_ track, the direct evidence of the braking power--_i.e._, friction. Therefore, weight _off_ the braker for going, _on_ for stopping. The steeper the slope the wider must be the angle formed by the two ski. The little circle “p” shows whereabouts the point of the pole should be--that is, a little behind the upper foot.

The pole may be used to facilitate balance when executing these movements, its point lightly furrowing the snow. It will also be found to considerably assist a sudden stop, for by pressing it into the ground and throwing all the weight on to the braker the glider becomes entirely disengaged, and there is less chance of its crossing the braker, as is otherwise apt to happen when running very fast. Hold the pole fairly short, do not lean back on it, and do not use it more than is really necessary.

TO MAKE A DOWN-HILL CURVE.

The foregoing section gave the beginner directions for turning quickly up-hill, but how shall he, when crossing a steep slope, turn quickly down-hill and, without stopping, continue his traverse in the opposite direction?

To do this is evidently a most valuable accomplishment, for if the runner cannot achieve it he is obliged at the end of his traverse to stop and turn as described on p. 55 before he can start off again on the other tack.

Here is the easiest way to learn.

First reduce the speed by a vigorous “stem,” _taking care not to turn up-hill_ in so doing. Then, keeping _both_ ski rigidly _flat_ and holding the heels far apart and the points of the ski close together, turn the body down-hill. LEAN FORWARD, AND THROW ALL THE WEIGHT ON TO THE OUTSIDE (LOWER) SKI.

You will then, if you have followed these directions _in every particular_, come round with a delightful swish and find yourself starting off comfortably in the other direction.

Change the stick to the other side of the body when about half round, because at that instant one is almost stationary for half a second or so.

The more one pulls the heels apart the shorter and neater the curve will be.

If success does not follow, it is due to some mistake, such as not leaning forward (one will then sit down), or edging the ski (they catch in the snow and overthrow the runner), or not tearing the heels sufficiently apart and throwing the weight on to the lower ski (which causes one to go off at a tangent instead of completing the arc).

The words of command for the curve are, then: Lean forward! Ski flat! Heels apart! Weight on the lower ski!

The diagrams pp. 73 and 75 should be of assistance in enabling the beginner to understand what is meant. On a really steep hill it requires a considerable amount of nerve to make up one’s mind to plunge for an instant headlong downwards. One’s natural inclination is to hang back and lean inwards, but this is precisely what one must not do.

The stick will be found to be of considerable assistance in making this curve, a little touch with it in the snow just as one is coming round being a great help to the balance. When shifting it across as above described, hold it rather short and place it in the snow well _in front of you_. This will assist you in leaning forward. Do not, however, attempt to spin round leaning on it; to do so throws the weight inside, which is quite fatal. It is, of course, perfectly possible to make the turn without a stick at all, but to do so is difficult on very steep ground. Practise on a moderate slope to begin with; when you become proficient move on to steeper and yet steeper places; but, of course, look out for avalanches!

Coming down a long and complicated slope one joins one curve to another without a break, thus dodging the trees and rocks. On a steep incline, if there are obstacles in the way of a straight descent, the S-track, as it is called, affords a safe reduction of speed and a prolongation of the pleasurable slide.

The ski-runner who has reached this stage enjoys himself wherever there is snow, even if there be little of it, for he can circumvent the patches where it has melted away. The photograph on the opposite page shows what can be done after a single winter’s patient practice. It is a “snake-line” made in the winter of 1903 by one of the writers of this chapter, and by no means an accomplishment requiring more than ordinary skill or talent. The slope in question descends from Alp Laret, near St. Moritz, to the valley in which lies the world-famed Cresta toboggan run. The gradient is between 40 deg. and 50 deg. (55 deg. to 60 deg. near the top), and the vertical distance from top to bottom amounts to exactly 300 metres (1,000ft.). The small avalanche about the middle was started by the ski of the runner, and the marks and remains of older avalanches on the left give sufficient testimony as to the steepness of the spot. The length of the run must be at least half a mile, and the entire distance was covered without a single fall or stumble. May the beginner draw the proper conclusion: that where there’s a will there’s a way, and that both in this case are within the reach of the ordinary individual who can walk, row, shoot, ride, play tennis, cricket, or football.

What is it that makes the votary of the slender plank count the shortening days, and greet with boyish glee the slowly falling flakes? What makes him tremble with excitement at the sight of the whitening hills? It is the memory of past delights, the impatience to taste them again. He sees himself on the top of the mountain. From his feet a vista of stately firs on a slope of dazzling white stretches away into the valley a thousand feet below. Above, the clear blue sky. Off he goes! For ten minutes the swish of the spurting snow is sweet music to his ears; for ten minutes he scorns the soaring albatross, as he feels himself buoyed by the feathering ski, swaying from curve to curve. The excitement of the start has left him, and though ten minutes may seem a short time he enjoys them to the full, for he is calm, and glides easily, without a show of strength, without effort or strain. He feels the mighty power of the rush, the living force which is gathering as he flies, which drives him along, but which is nevertheless under his absolute control. He toys with the weight that impels him; by small movements of his ski he steers and directs the energy within. He can make the snow yield like water, or resist like steel. He is swung from turn to turn, irresistibly, but with safe and stately motion, by the force which he commands; he feels himself rocking softly, like the petrel on the waves.

Then comes the end; the stream at the bottom is near. A sudden twist; a swirling cloud of white, and, as the crystals settle glittering in the sun, there one sees him firm and erect, the ruler of the mountain, the master of the snow and ski!

THE “TELEMARK” SWING.

We now come to other more rapid, more brilliant, and more difficult methods of turning and coming to a sudden standstill. The stemming turn can hardly be performed quickly when running very fast without the aid of the stick, especially when long grooved ski are used. But with the “Telemark” and “Christiania” swings, about to be described, a good runner can stop suddenly almost anywhere when travelling much faster. It is indeed a worthy sight to see such a one come sailing past, his every sinew as pliable and strong as the good ash beneath his feet, yielding to each dip, as a smart racing vessel yields to the waves. Twenty-five miles an hour he is travelling, and not a furlong less. To stop suddenly at such a speed seems impossible. But, swish! and he is round as easily and as quickly as you can read these words. How was it done? It was all so rapid you could not follow. You saw a little sinking on one knee--perhaps not even that. The snow hid nearly everything. You slide up to our friend and ask him to show you what he did. He will be most polite and most anxious for you to learn--especially if he be a Norwegian, as will almost certainly prove to be the fact. You will be shown just how to place your feet, and just how to bend the knees, and just how to lean the body. And you will start off and fail hopelessly again and again. By and by, however, especially if your teacher be an intelligent man who has had previous experience with beginners, you will begin to understand the knack of the movement, and by the end of the afternoon you should be rewarded by some measure of success.

But perhaps you may not be fortunate enough to meet with such a runner, or, what is by no means improbable, it may be that, though a clever performer on ski, he is not a good instructor. He makes the swing, but knows not himself how he does it. And small blame to him, for how many people trouble to analyse the things they have learnt as children?

We venture to offer our services. But is it possible to learn these subtle manœuvres from a book? Most certainly it is; but you must either take it with you into the field, or else (what is as good, or better) have some preliminary practice in your bed-room, where you will have only your looking-glass for an audience, and no small boy in the immediate neighbourhood to point the finger of scorn. If you do this, we are sure that you will learn very quickly, or if you fail, then our instructions must be wrong. If, however, you simply glance through what we have written without making practical experiments, book in hand, we can accept no responsibility. These turns are really not at all hard to make fairly well, which is all that we can pretend to teach; but to make them with certainty requires long practice. And that is, of course, entirely your own affair.

We propose to deal with the “Telemark” first--not because it is easier or more useful, for in this respect there is little to choose between them, but because it is customary to do so. Besides, the Telemark is a much prettier swing than the “Christiania,” and it will make a greater impression on your admiring friends should you be so lucky as to succeed in making one when showing off.

You will not find your stick (on which we trust you are not in the habit of riding) of the slightest assistance to you in _learning_ either of these swings. It _may_ help you a little to _make_ the Christiania once you have acquired the knack of it, but we are very doubtful even about that, and we strongly advise that from now on you do not use it at all. Hold it in your hand, except when jumping, as previously recommended (p. 45), but make no attempt to use it.

Each of these swings can be made in two directions--to right or to left; and each has its special use for special occasions. Apart, therefore, from being a graceful accomplishment and from the excellent practice it affords, it is of considerable practical value to be able to make all four of them. Nevertheless, most people are content with one of each kind--a Telemark to the left and a Christiania to the right--which enables them under ordinary conditions to turn in either direction without changing the foot (see _infra_). But the best runners can make all four swings, and we recommend you to emulate their example.

The Telemark swing is easiest in loose snow, where there is little side slip. We find it rather easier on the level than the Christiania (_e.g._, to stop after making a jump), but it is more difficult to make quickly on a hillside, and in general it is not quite so rapid as the Christiania.

Fig. 27 (_a_) shows the position in which the body and limbs are held throughout a Telemark swing to the left. It is convenient to call this position the Telemark position. Fig. 27 (_b_) shows the position which the ski assume after the swing is over.

The following directions are for making a Telemark swing to the left.

The directions for making a Telemark swing to the right are identically the same, substituting left for right and right for left throughout.

TO MAKE A TELEMARK SWING TO THE LEFT.--(_a_) From the normal position for running down (see p. 63) advance the right ski till the right ankle is opposite the bend of the left ski. Raise the heel of the left foot off the left ski, bend the left knee, and throw all the weight forward on to the right foot. (This is what we mean by “the Telemark position.”) (_b_) Place the right ski slightly on its left edge and turn and lean the whole body to the left.

If these directions are correctly carried out, the runner will come round with a sweep, the sharpness of which will depend upon the force with which he turns his body as advised in (_b_).

An excellent way of learning this turn is to practise running straight down hill in the Telemark position. Note especially to raise the heel of the left foot as shown. This is highly important, and is, in fact, the key to the whole affair, for if the runner raises his heel he is almost compelled to throw the weight forward on to the right foot, and if he can once succeed in doing this everything else is comparatively easy. So remember to _raise the heel of the left foot and to kneel well down on the left ski_. Cultivate as narrow a spoor as possible, and as soon as you can run straight like this at a moderate speed try turning the body ever such a little. _Look the way you wish to go._ You will be delighted to discover what a small amount of turning will cause you to come round very quickly.

To compensate for the centrifugal force exercised by the turn on the upper part of the body, you will have to lean inwards; in fact, after you begin to get the knack of the thing, you are pretty certain to be thrown outwards once or twice. But do not trouble about that too much; _do not at first make any conscious effort to lean inwards_, or you will probably fall in that direction; you will very soon begin to compensate for the outward throw quite unconsciously.

Do not try to turn too quickly when learning, but rather take matters easily; _speed will come by and by_--in which connection note that both the “Telemark” and the “Christiania” are _swings_ and _not jerks_, and that, however rapidly they be performed, the body should be turned _crescendo_ and _not_ (to continue the music metaphor) _sforzando_.

Another capital way of practising is to stand on some level space at the edge of a steep hill in the position shown in Fig. 27 (_a_) and then to slip over the edge and instantly to begin to swing. This method will allow you to practise a great number of swings in a short time without the trouble of walking a long way up-hill in order to gain speed. The following diagram shows graphically how to do so:--

The “Telemark” swing can also be used to make down-hill turns in the manner described above, p. 72, and the principles there given hold good here, except that the “Telemark” position, instead of the stemming position, is held throughout.

A succession of S turns made in this way looks very pretty, but on a very steep hill their execution becomes rather uncertain, for the snow, unless perfect, is apt to slip irregularly, and with a true “Telemark” the stick is no use to help matters out. We have found, however, that a sort of half-stemming, half-“Telemark” position plus a little stick is useful in inducing long ski to come round.

THE “CHRISTIANIA” SWING.

The “Christiania” swing differs materially from the “Telemark” swing in this, that in making it the normal position of the ski is retained, and the turn is effected in the direction of the advanced foot--that is to say, to the right if the right foot is leading, and to the left with the left foot in front. It is easiest on hard snow and on steep hills, where the ski are liable to skid, on which ground the “Telemark” is especially difficult.

The term “Christiania” swing for this movement appears to be a misnomer. For we are assured on very high authority that it was in common use in Telemarken long before the inhabitants of the capital acquired any skill in the art of ski-running. We are inclined to suspect that the name is of Continental origin, for, though we practised the “Christiania” years ago in Norway, we never there heard it called by any other name than “Telemarking.” Be this, however, as it may, the turn in question is a perfectly distinct one, and well deserves a name of its own, and, as it is known all over Switzerland, Germany, and Austria as the “Christiania,” we have not dared to take upon us to alter the name.

Besides being easier in shallow snow and on hillsides than the Telemark, the Christiania is considerably the more rapid swing of the two, and a skilful runner can by means of it stop suddenly when travelling at almost any speed.

Fig. 29 shows the position which the ski usually assume _after a swing to the right is over_, but diagrams are, in describing this turn, of very little value, for the great secret of success is to endeavour to hold the ski in the normal position (see p. 63) throughout.

Here are formal directions for making the swing to the right. To make it to the left all that is necessary is to substitute left for right and right for left throughout.

TO MAKE A “CHRISTIANIA” SWING TO THE RIGHT:--(_a_) hold the ski in the normal position (see p. 63), _press the feet close together_ and distribute the weight evenly on both ski. Bend both knees a little. (_b_) Gently _swing_ the whole body, but especially the region about the hips, round to the right, at the same time leaning in that direction, throwing the weight on to the _heels_ and edging both ski.

You will, when you have mastered the knack of the movement, be astonished how quickly you will come round. The ski will assume the position above shown, and the weight will of itself fall almost entirely on to the right foot. This latter fact accounts, we believe, for the directions commonly given for making this turn--viz., to swing almost entirely on the inner (here the right) foot and to place the ski as shown. This was also the description given in the first edition of this book, but a closer analysis and more experience in teaching have induced us to alter it. We have found that any conscious effort to swing on the right foot and to place the ski in the position shown invariably results in the left ski rushing off at a tangent. To avoid this it is necessary to press the ski tightly together throughout and to _begin_ the turn with the weight evenly distributed on both.

Beginners will find that the great difficulty in this swing is to get it started. It involves a peculiar kind of catch of the back part of the ski in the snow, which is very difficult to explain. Perhaps it will assist you to arrive at the sort of “feel” of the movement if you place a chair in front of you and then (standing before it in the normal position, and without moving the feet) endeavour to sit down on it.

In this turn also the precepts given above as to swinging easily and not jerking, and leaving the lean inwards to take care of itself, apply.

It may also be practised after the manner shown in Fig. 28.

_As a substitute for stemming a little of the swing is very useful for braking when traversing a steep slope._ To practise this select a steep hill and run straight for a short distance obliquely down and across it; then make a little of the swing, reducing the pace; then run straight again; and so on. This is also a very good way of learning the turn itself.

There seems to be no reason why one should not make S turns by means of the “Christiania” swing, though to do so must be rather difficult.

In order to save time in changing the foot, skilful runners when threading their way through a wood (for example) usually make their turns by the “Telemark” for one direction and the “Christiania” for the other.

In the above description we have advised the beginner to learn the “Christiania” swing in the normal position with one foot leading, but it can also be made with the feet perfectly level. We well remember our delight and astonishment on one occasion when we saw a first-class Norwegian runner, after making a 70ft. jump, and when travelling at a great speed, avoid colliding with a friend and two trees by making with wonderful rapidity three “Christiania” swings--left, right, and left.

There are, of course, other ways of combining these various methods of turning which an expert employs quite unconsciously. Indeed, it is highly probable that your Norwegian friends will never even have heard of a “Stemming turn” or a “Christiania swing,” any more than a South Sea islander has heard of a verb or an adjective. This does not, however, prevent the Norwegian from being an expert on ski or the coloured gentleman from being a fluent speaker. Nor has it any bearing on the fact that you as a foreigner will find a grammar of assistance in learning Kanaka. It is our hope that the classification we have adopted may similarly prove of assistance to you in becoming a proficient ski-runner.

JUMPING.

By E. C. RICHARDSON.

So many strange and perverted ideas prevail in England and on the Continent as to what ski-jumping is, that it is, perhaps, excusable to begin by mentioning a few of the things which it is not. To begin with, there are people who think that ski are a sort of seven-league boots on which one may fly across the snow planes as fast as an express train, jumping any minor obstacles, such as houses or trees, which happen to be in the way. This is not so. Four or five miles per hour is very good going on the level, and it is impossible to jump upwards from the level over anything higher than a small gooseberry bush. Again, one frequently hears that Norwegians are born on ski, and jump before they can walk; but, though the writer of this article has made every inquiry, he has, so far, failed to authenticate a single case in point. The truth is that Norwegians of all ages are fond of ski-running and jumping, but, owing to such things as the melting of the snow in summer, extreme youth and old age, business and the like, only a comparatively small number are worthy to be called real experts. Further, it is not the fact that a special exercise place, with an elaborately built take-off, is essential. On most hills it is possible to build, in a few minutes, a jump which will give entertainment both to the skilful and unskilful; and it frequently happens in the course of a tour that a little natural drop presents itself, from which one may skim through the air for several yards before again touching the snow. True that in Norway hills are specially prepared and elaborate takeoffs built, but these are chiefly used for competitions, where long and difficult leaps and spectacular effect are required. It cannot be too strongly insisted that the sport is wholly independent of such things, and that, whilst the jump affords by far the best means of judging the skill of a ski-runner, its enjoyment is by no means dependent on elaborate construction or mere competition.

Like other great sports, ski-jumping calls forth the qualities of courage, skill, and endurance; a good jumper must have a cool head, a quick eye, and, above all, a nice sense of balance; but, given these things, it is open to all to succeed in some measure, be they old or young, born near the north pole or the equator.

These misapprehensions having been removed, it is expedient to give a detailed description of what ski-jumping really is, detailed instructions following later. Your attention is directed to Fig. 30, p. 87.

This represents the section of an exceptionally suitable hill. The jumper starts from the point A, and slides down to B, where he leaps. The impetus gained from his journey from A to B, coupled with the leap, sends him like a cannon ball through the air to C, where he alights, and continues his course to D. Here he usually stops himself by a Telemark or Christiania swing. The distance from B to C is the measure of the length of the jump, which may be anything up to 134ft. (the record to 1903), according to the condition of the snow; shape, length, and steepness of the hill; and the skill of the performer.[8]

It will be seen from this that the jump is not a jump _up_, but a jump _down_; and it can readily be guessed that the difficulty lies not so much in attaining great length as in retaining an upright position on alighting. It takes considerable practice to make a jump of 10ft. and stand, whilst anybody, provided the hill be sufficiently steep, can jump 100ft. and fall.

Formerly, in Norway, the take-off used to be so placed that the jumper alighted on the level, instead of on the hill side, and, at first sight, such an arrangement might be thought to make matters easier. This is, however, very far from being the case. A jump of anything over a few yards on the level involves a considerable shock on alighting, which is not only unpleasant, but renders “standing” a much more difficult matter, whilst, in the event of a fall, serious injuries may result. On the other hand, a jump downhill is attended by little or no shock on alighting, which makes “standing” much easier, and falling nothing more serious, in the vast majority of cases, than a long roly-poly, broken by the snow.

Assuming, then, that the slope and snow are suitable, the chief requisites to success are a sense of balance and great daring. The bolder, almost rasher, one is, the better. The outlook from the top of a ski-jump of any magnitude is indeed alarming; for note that the slope above the take-off is usually, and properly, less steep than that below; and this means that a man of ordinary stature standing at the point A (see diagram) sees nothing of the slope B C, and his sensations, at least at first, are as of one about to launch himself into a vast abyss. The danger is, however, very largely imaginary, and a bold, coolly-calculated spring vastly increases the chances of standing.

But to proceed from these general remarks to details. The ski used for jumping should be suited to the runner in accordance with the table given (p. 34). It is not easy to jump on ski shorter than this, but they may very well be a trifle longer. They should be rather on the heavy side, so as not to flutter about in the air, and in order to withstand the strain to which they are put on landing.

Any good firm binding may be used which permits of vertical control over the ski.

No other special equipment is necessary.

The best snow for jumping is that which has been down for some days, and which has been trodden by ski into a fairly firm mass. The temperature of the air should be below freezing point. On such a surface the ski will glide swiftly and at an even rate of speed, sinking in about an inch or so--_i.e._, sufficiently to avoid side-slip. Sticky snow is dangerous, for the reason that it is apt to occasion a nasty fall forwards, due to the checking of the ski on alighting. For a similar reason, very deep soft snow is to be avoided, but it should be noted that freshly fallen snow will often cease to stick after it has been trodden down, especially should the temperature of the air be low.

HOW TO SELECT AND PREPARE THE HILL.

As above mentioned, we frequently come across natural jumps when on tour which require little or no preparation. On most hill-sides there are places where sudden little dips occur. Give a kick or two with the ski just below such a dip, so as to make the step (see B, Fig. 30) more pronounced, and scrape together a little snow on the top of it to raise it somewhat. Then with half a minute’s stamping about the spot where you intend to alight your preparations will be complete. Or, again, a stone lying on a steep hill-side may be pressed into service after the manner shown below.

Care must, of course, be taken that the top of the stone be covered with snow. This sort of jump, the point of which turns upwards, is called a _spraet hop_ in Norwegian. It has the effect of throwing the runner high into the air and is excellent practice.

Edges of cornices (not, of course, large, dangerous ones), stumps of trees, buried fences, &c., &c., can often be used for take-offs, and the runner when on tour should keep his eyes open for such, as they cause very amusing variations to ordinary going.

But, though when a little skill has been acquired one should practice on all sorts and kinds of places, it is probably best to begin on something very easy, in order to gain confidence.

Choose, then, a good steep hill with a fair out-run at the bottom. The gradient should be not less than 20 degrees, but if it be steeper, all the better. It is a great mistake to begin on too gentle a slope; a steep hill is far easier and far safer.

If you can find a hill with a little dip in it, well; but, if not, never mind.

First select the place for building your take-off. This will usually be at the edge of the dip, supposing you have found one. If, however, the slope below this point is less than about double the length of jump you contemplate, or, say, 20 yards in all, you must place the take-off somewhat back from the extreme edge, as shown in Fig. 30. But very likely you may not be able to find any suitable hill with a dip in it. Never mind; a smooth hill will do quite as well, or perhaps at first even better. Choose a point on it 20 yards or so above the bottom, and build a long take-off there in the shape shown below.

This is the form of hill on which you should practise for some time. Do not at first let there be too much change between the slope of the take-off and of the hill below, for the greater this difference the more difficult will be the jump.

In choosing a hill it is, of course, desirable to select one as smooth and free from difficulties as possible. In Nature, however, such are seldom to be found, and one generally has to be content with something less perfect. _It is, however, to be noted that smoothness of surface and regularity of snow, whilst everywhere desirable, are of special importance for a distance of ten yards above the spot selected for the take-off, and for about a similar length below the point of alighting._

So, having chosen your hill, stand down it once or twice to ascertain the best lie for the track. Then stamp the snow well down with your ski at the two important places above mentioned, making lanes down them about nine feet broad, and filling up any hollows with good firm snow.

Then construct the take-off.

This may conveniently be done by making a little fence of tree branches to the height of a foot or so, at right angles to the track, and then filling up the space above them with layers of snow and more tree branches placed flat. The structure should be made as firm as possible, especially at the edge, and it should combine with the hill above it, so as not to leave any sudden angle at the join.

Begin with quite a little drop--about 1½ft. should be sufficient--and as soon as you can “stand” over that build higher and higher.

It is not _necessary_ for practice to make a very wide take-off--2ft. or 3ft. should be amply sufficient. And in general do not waste valuable time which might be spent in jumping in building a very elaborate affair.

The case is, of course, quite different if the hill is intended for a competition. In this event too much care cannot be taken to give every competitor an equal chance. Fig. 30 shows an outline of the Solberg jumping hill, near Christiania, which may be taken as an example of what a hill ought to be. The snow on a competition hill should be thoroughly stamped down with ski _some hours before_ the intended jumping. The take-off should be 3 or 4 yards wide, and there should be plenty of men both above and below the take-off armed with rakes to keep the snow in order. The spectators should not be allowed to approach too closely to the track. The illustrations opposite pp. 9 and 87 show how this is arranged in Norway.

HOW TO JUMP.

First study closely the figures in the diagram (Fig. 33), then read the following instructions, referring back from time to time.

THE APPROACH.

Imagine yourself, then, standing some 20 or 30 yards above the take-off. (The precise distance will, of course, depend on the steepness of the hill and the speed which you wish to attain; but as regards speed do not attempt too much at first; it is difficult, of course, to give an exact measure, but a rate of about 5 yards per second when approaching the edge of the jump should be sufficient to begin with.) See that your ski-fastenings are in order, and polish your ski a little on the snow, or on some fir branches or other twigs, to remove any lumps adhering to the bottom of them. _Be altogether without fear_, and start.

Hold the ski close together, with one of them somewhat in advance--say, with the heel of the one foot about in line with the toe of the other.

About 15 yards or so before reaching the edge of the take-off bend down, leaning a little forward (see Fig. 33). N.B.--About this point many good jumpers bring their feet quite level.

THE SATS.

_Some few yards before reaching the edge swing the body evenly forwards, at the same time straightening up._

This movement is termed the “sats.”

Note particularly that no attempt must be made to _lift_ the feet as in ordinary jumping. The body should be swung evenly forwards, and at the same time straighten up from the crouched to the erect position. The movement, if made vigorously, does, in fact, cause a slight rising from the ground, but it is best not to be too vigorous at first. _Unroll_ yourself, so to speak, with an easy sweep, avoiding all stiffness and jerking.

It may perhaps help you to understand what is meant if you make an _attempt_ to rise on the toes. You should not, indeed, actually rise, but just at first, if you make an effort in that direction, it will probably assist you to arrive at the knack of the thing.

Another very important point is the timing of the movement. The body should be nearly straight just as the take-off is left. Therefore, as the movement itself takes time, the greater the speed at which you are travelling the earlier you must begin. Whilst, on the other hand, the more vigorous the straightening you intend to make the later you can defer it. You are, however, advised to take things easily, especially at first, and to aim rather at accuracy and elegance of style than at mere length. Accordingly it will be necessary for you to begin the straightening movement rather early. Remember when you first learnt to shoot how often the tails of the rabbits and pheasants suffered. For very similar reasons most beginners make the _sats_ too late.

It follows from the above that the object of the _sats_ is two-fold--firstly, to increase the length of the jump, and, secondly, to bring the body into the proper position for alighting. The former is achieved by the straightening movement, and the latter by the swing forward.

“But,” you ask, “why swing forward at all, why not keep quite still?” The reason is that in descending all hills on slippery things like ski the body must be kept quite straight over them--or, in other words, at about right angles to the slope on which they are travelling. This is sufficiently obvious. But observe that in jumping the slope below the take-off is considerably steeper than that above (see p. 93). The body must accordingly be brought forward when passing from one to the other, or a fall backwards will result. And such is, indeed, the common fate of the beginner, whose tendency is invariably to hang back!

Now look at the _spraet hop_, shown in Fig. 31. Here the take-off itself is turned upwards, and the difference between its direction and that of the slope below becomes greater than ever. On such a jump it is especially necessary to swing well forwards, for which reason it is the very best practice, for once one has learnt to do that everything else is easy.

POSITION IN THE AIR.

The whole body should be straight and erect. So do not check the straightening of the knees and thighs if you have not quite finished your spring when you leave the take-off.

You will feel a compelling necessity to wave your arms round and round when in the air. Everybody does so more or less, but, of course, your object should be to be reasonable in this. Frantic waving looks very ugly. Endeavour to keep your ski parallel to the slope below. There is always a tendency for the toes to fly up and the heels to drag, which should be checked as far as possible by pressing down the toes.

ON ALIGHTING.

Slide one foot forwards and the other backwards, relieving any shock by a slight bending of the knees. This extending of the feet is of great assistance in preserving the balance, and with a little practice becomes almost instinctive.

Resume as soon as possible the normal position--_i.e._, ski close together, one foot slightly in advance, body slightly crouched. As soon as possible after reaching the level stop yourself by making a Telemark or Christiania swing.

_Points to be remembered_:--

1. _Don’t be frightened._ 2. _Ski close together._ 3. _Swing forward, “unroll.”_ 4. _Extend ski on alighting._

Pay great attention to your “form,” which is all important, as in rowing. Think of nothing else, and you will soon succeed. At competitions the prize is not necessarily awarded to the competitor who jumps furthest, even if he “stood” after alighting. For if the jump was made in bad style assuredly it was a fluke, and will seldom be repeated. All ski-jumpers fall more or less, but it is equally a matter of surprise if the awkward should “stand,” or the elegant and correct should fail.

* * * * *

The style of jumping above recommended is that known in Norway as the _Svæve_--one swoops motionless through the air. It is certainly the prettiest, as well as the easiest to learn. Another method, however, exists, known as the _Trække op_, in which the leaper draws up his legs during his flight, the object being to cover a longer distance. This, however, however, looks rather ugly (according, at least, to most people’s ideas), and it is questionable whether one comes so much further with it, after all.

But there is yet another point which it is far more difficult to decide. Shall the runner jump with feet perfectly level or shall he advance one of them as shown in Fig. 33? As will be seen from the above description, the writer has not ventured to speak positively as to this. On the one hand he has the authority of one of the Holmenkollen judges for asserting that it is best for the beginner to keep one foot in advance, whilst on the other the general practice of many (if not, indeed, most) first-class performers undoubtedly is to keep the feet quite level. The advocates of the advanced foot contend that extreme steadiness is of vital importance in taking the _sats_, and that, inasmuch as the advanced foot position is admittedly steadier than the other for glissading, it should also be adopted at this stage. In addition to which they argue that, after the flight through the air, when the runner first touches ground the advanced foot is the more stable position of the two. On the other side, those in favour of the “level-footed” style contend:--Firstly, that to jump with one foot forward looks ugly (and the writer is inclined to agree with them in this), and, secondly, that it defeats its own ends, for it involves leaning forward on to one foot, and accordingly jumping chiefly with it. And this (they say) is conducive to a crooked flight through the air. It is not, however, apparent how this is a necessary consequence, for in ordinary long-jumping the spring is taken almost entirely with one leg without the balance being in any way upset.

These are, however, theoretical matters, as to which the reader interested may well be left to work out conclusions for himself, whilst those who do not care for argument can console themselves with the reflection that whichever style they like to adopt they have excellent authority for their choice.

Is it possible that this is another question like that of the bindings and that perhaps it does not matter so very much, after all? Or may not both sides be right? May it not, for example, be best to jump with level feet when the track is smooth and easy, but with one foot forward when it is irregular and difficult? On the Continent rough jumping on tour has hardly yet “caught on,” everything being regarded, so to speak, through competition spectacles. And perhaps this is why the level-footed style is there so much insisted on. He, however, who limits himself to jumping at competitions and on elaborately prepared tracks will never be a really clever ski-runner, and will miss a vast deal of the possibilities and pleasures of this branch of the sport.

SKI MOUNTAINEERING.

By W. R. RICKMERS.

It is quite impossible to define exactly what constitutes mountaineering as apart from strolling and short excursions, but its chief characteristics are distance from human dwellings and human help, and the presence of special dangers. The term “mountaineering” comprises a multitude of rules which teach how to overcome the difficulties and how to avoid the dangers of rising ground. Mountaineering is a science admirably expounded in a series of classical text-books, the result of the experience of thousands of climbers, and the essence of a literature of over 10,000 volumes. From a subjective point of view mountaineering begins when a wanderer, approaching a hill or mountain, is conscious of the fact that he will meet with special conditions which demand a special knowledge. And the minimum required of a man who wishes to be called a “mountaineer,” a good mountain climber, an expert, is that as to the theory he should have “Dent” at his finger-ends (C. T. Dent, Mountaineering, Badminton Library); and as to the practice, he must be a man who can be trusted to attempt any peak in the world without endangering the lives of his companions.

Now, it would be absurd to try to teach mountaineering in a chapter of this book, for it takes ten years at least to make a mountaineer. Still less dare I insult the mountaineer by advising him how to behave in his element, for he will not go high and far until he feels at home on the planks. By the time he has mastered the technicalities of ski-ing, he knows everything about the outfit which suits him best, and about his line of conduct on any expedition he may plan. My remarks on the subject in hand cannot, therefore, be anything but a series of very general reflections and impressions, simply intended as a loud warning to ski-runners that they should study “Alpinism,” and as a gentle reminder to mountaineers, that ski-running is a somewhat tricky complication of their art. Why should I tell the latter what type of ski to take on long tours, seeing that he knows on which kind he travels best; why should he ask me about his ice-axe when he is sure to take one or not according to the object in view?[9]

Ski-runners, unless they are climbing experts, or accompanied by such, must confine themselves to the usual practice-grounds and safe excursions, for only a mountaineer can decide on the spot whether hill craft is necessary or not. To explain how he arrives at this decision would mean a very thick volume. The ski-runner, therefore, who wishes to form a correct opinion of his own should make up his mind to learn from amateurs, guides, and books how to look about, think, and behave when he leaves the beaten track where multitudes are accustomed to go unthinking and unadvised. My random observations are to impress him with that necessity, and for the mountaineer they shall be an epitome of familiar principles.

In the winter the problem of the avalanche eclipses all others. The rule to go only with guides or experienced friends disposes of the general advice respecting glaciers, crevasses, slips, strategy, and discipline, for in these things a man must train himself during many seasons. The rule that only good ski-runners dare aspire towards high peaks saves a long repetition of detail as to outfit.[10] The ski-runner-mountaineer ought always to be a man who, during his apprenticeship, knew something of cold, hunger, slow companions, and broken ski. To have no spare gloves and no provisions, to fall where one ought to stand, to step on a hollow, or to risk a dashing slide, may have merely disagreeable results two miles from home; but the same omissions and commissions can be suicidal, nay, even criminal, when ten miles from the nearest human habitation. If you wish to kill, go alone, and kill yourself, for every party of mountaineers suffers for the thoughtlessness of each of its members, while the greatest skill or ability of one of them is as nothing in the balance of fate when the whole has to bear the inadequacy of the lowest unit.

Extreme suspicion and wariness are the only correct attitude towards the mountains in their winter garb. The number of factors which combine to prepare or prevent an avalanche is truly bewildering, and any single one of them may be the prime mover or the reliable safeguard in a given instance. And this one was perhaps overlooked in weighing the evidence. _The secret of the avalanche is the breaking strain and snapping point of an unseen tension._ Avalanches owe their growth and collapse to some or all of the following indications: The angle of the slope; the surface of the ground; the quantity of the snow; the snow of a month ago, of yesterday, and to-day; the temperature and the wind of a month ago, yesterday, and today, while the snow fell, or before it fell, or after it had fallen. And to consummate or prevent the catastrophy there are, in conjunction with the above, the temperature at the time of our arrival on the spot, the weight of the party, its methods of walking or ski-ing, and sundry other accidents. So many possibilities produce tantalising doubt rather than definite conviction, and more often than not a slope, which presents all the visible elements of danger, may be perfectly harmless. On the other hand, well-known guides have walked into mouse-traps because one exceptional condition had altered the internal character of a particular slope which, throughout their lives, they had known as perfectly safe. A strong sense of human weakness is therefore the proper frame of mind towards the mysterious and overwhelming power of the snow.

The mountaineer must condense the theory of avalanches into a few comprehensive rules of thumb, and when in doubt he must give the benefit to himself and not to the avalanche.

SUSPICIOUS.--Every open slope of about 25 deg. or steeper, and _all new snow in warm weather_. A thaw after a heavy fall of snow is the most common cause of the thick and heavy slides known as ground avalanches.

DANGEROUS.--Every heavy accumulation of snow at an angle of 40 deg. or more, on long open slopes, and in gullies. At lesser angles all snow which lies on a hard and smooth surface (grass, earth, old snow, crust, ice, &c.). Hard snow under the lee of ridges. This is liable to crack and to become suddenly transformed into what looks like a huge waterfall of lumps of sugar. Therefore, one ought to cross such slopes as high up as possible. The cornice which overhangs the ridge is more dangerous to those who walk _on_ it than to those _under_ it.

SAFE.--All slopes under 25 deg; all slopes evenly dotted with trees or rocks; almost every perfectly homogeneous snow not deeper than 2ft. which lies on a rough surface (screes, &c.).

More cannot be said without conjuring up a flood of detail. This experience and acquired instinct must fill in. The tourist can find almost daily an opportunity of making experiments on a small scale, though he should not forget that a cubic yard of snow can dislocate his arm or break his leg.

As an instance, showing the effect of surface, I may mention that, in the Alpine spring, the grass slopes send down in huge avalanches the solid layer accumulated and consolidated during the winter. At the same time the firm, wet snow of exactly the same texture which lies on screes remains perfectly safe, and affords splendid ski-ing. It never slips off, but gradually melts, evaporates, and vanishes as the summer draws near.

The only exact method of dealing with avalanches would be to make “avalanche maps” of popular centres. In these maps the slopes and gullies which are always bad are coloured, let us say, red. A blue slope would be dangerous under such and such conditions; a green slope becomes threatening in the spring, &c. On these maps all those expeditions should be marked which can be guaranteed as safe.

The fear of the avalanche must always be before the ski-runner’s conscience. All the rest is a matter of well-defined dogma, of strict attention to well-known precautions, which belong to the routine of every mountaineer deserving of the name.

(1) Never go alone; three is the minimum.

(2) One man at least must be an Alpine climber of experience.

(3) All members of the party must be equal in skill.

These three commandments are the essence. Let a few comments suffice.

(1) The solitary mountaineer is a fool. This is an article of faith. Permissible exceptions are rare.

(2) The experienced leader will tell his friends all about the crevasses, outfit, provisions, the importance of an early start, the duty of keeping together, and the courage to turn back before the approach of the night or bad weather. He will ask if everyone has his goggles, spare gloves, provisions, snow-helmets, repairing tools. He will take from everyone the promise to be strictly obeyed.

(3) This is a necessary complement to 1 and 2. Ten stumblers of equal proficiency are a good party, for they will generally get as far as they deserve. Nine good men and one stumbler are bad, for they will probably make that one poor man feel worse than he is.

On long tours only persons can go who do not fall when they have the will not to fall. He is not a fit companion for difficult expeditions who is not sure that he can keep on his feet throughout the day. A mountaineer never has a spill unless he forgets himself, his companions, or his surroundings.

NOTE.--In our experience by far the commonest form of winter avalanche occurs when a ski-runner crosses (or some other influence disturbs) a long steep slope of _freshly-fallen_ snow. The weight of the runner is the last straw which causes the slenderly coherent mass to snap. It does so with a curious report, something like the cracking of thick ice on a frozen lake. Below the dividing line, which may be half a mile long, the snow slides off the hill-side much as it slides off the roof of a house, forming itself into thick slabs like paving stones which accumulate one on top of the other, and which ultimately overwhelm the runner. The snow usually breaks only a short distance above the runner, and consequently, in the event of an accident, search should first be made in that part of the mass which is highest up the hill.

Freshly-fallen snow is accordingly quite the most serious danger of ski-running, and, inasmuch as it usually affords but poor going, it is seldom worth while venturing far on very steep ground after a recent fall. After a few days of fine weather, however, the snow settles down, the avalanches run off, and what remains becomes firmer and more crystalline in structure. Under the pressure of its own weight, and owing to the peculiar property of _regelation_ which solid water possesses, the new fall attaches itself to the old crusts, and the conditions become, comparatively speaking, safe.

It is a common saying amongst the Swiss that it is unsafe to venture above the tree-line, as long as any snow is left clinging to the trees on the sunny side of the valleys. This rough test we have found to be a very useful one.--ED.

ODDS AND ENDS.

BY E. C. RICHARDSON.

ANTIDOTES TO “STICKING” AND AIDS TO CLIMBING.

In warm weather snow is apt to stick to the bottom of the ski (see page 22). It accumulates there in large watery clods, and renders progress very slow and laborious. Under such circumstances the advice commonly given is not to go out at all, and unless there is a prospect of better things, either in the shade or higher up, it is certainly best to stop at home. Nevertheless, the boundary line between sticking and not sticking is an extremely narrow one, and, moreover, one is not always sitting comfortably indoors when the trouble begins. It is therefore important to consider what is to be done to avoid or cure it.

* * * * *

=Waxing the ski= is the simplest plan, and proves effective in the great majority of cases. It is true that with waxed ski hill-climbing may become a matter of considerable difficulty, for the wax is apt to carry matters too far, and to make the surface unduly slippery. But anything is better than carrying all that dead weight of snow, and by using only a little wax under the foot (where the sticking chiefly occurs), by choosing an easy gradient, and by side stepping, &c., one can generally manage to get along somehow.

Various kinds of wax are sold for this purpose, and all are more or less efficacious. There is, however, a difficulty with the solid kinds in inducing them to “bite” when the ski are cold and wet, and the writer prefers the semi-liquid variety sold in tubes. A tube of wax, plus its attendant piece of rag, takes up very little room in the pocket or rucksack, and its weight is in no way commensurate with that of the lumps of snow which it is not infrequently its office to prevent.

* * * * *

=Sealskin.=--From time immemorial seal’s (or elk’s) skin has been attached to the bottom of the ski. The hairs, set towards the heel serve the double purpose of preventing the ski slipping backwards, and of keeping the surface free from sticky snow. Until quite recently it has been usual to fix the skin permanently; but whilst this works fairly well for certain purposes, it is open to many objections. The hair is a very serious impediment, both down-hill and on the level, for it not only reduces the speed, but, owing to its inherent “wobbliness,” it renders steering and balancing much more difficult. Then, again, the hair soon wears out, a day of hard snow being sufficient to quite spoil it; or it tears, or, being wet, the weather turns colder and it freezes solid. But perhaps the most serious objection of all is the nasty _feeling_ of a skin-clad ski. There is a certain cleanness and crispness about the movement of the plain wood through the snow which one learns to love, and which one sorely misses. Besides which there is much art in getting up-hill to the best advantage on uncovered ski, and this keeps one’s mind busy, and greatly alleviates the labours of the climb; whereas with the skin any duffer can get along, and climbing becomes pure drudgery. It is, however, certain that, given a long and steep ascent where much zig-zagging is necessary, or even an only moderately steep slope and hard snow, one can with the skin arrive far more quickly and easily at the top than without it. It will, therefore, either when attached permanently or when detachable as about to be described, be found to be of great value for long and arduous mountain tours on steep Alpine ground. But even in the Alps, under all ordinary circumstances, where ski-running, and not the ascent of any particularly difficult summit, is the object in view, and where it is of no consequence whether one arrives an hour sooner or later, there is no sense in encumbering oneself with unnecessary gear and spoiling the pleasant “feel” of the bare ash.

On undulating ground, where one can usually go straight up and down hill (as in most parts of Norway), nobody nowadays dreams of using skin in any shape or form.

* * * * *

=Detachable Sealskin= is quite a recent invention, and is vastly preferable to the fixed article. For it can be used for a long climb, and removed when the summit is reached.

Thus a strip of the material mounted on webbing can be attached to the bottom of the ski by means of a loop over the point, a strap at the heel end, and a few transverse straps. But the plan is open to the objection that the skin is apt to slip about sideways, and that the fixing of it is troublesome, and takes time.

The latest method of fixing is that invented by Messrs. Sohm and Madlener, and is highly recommended by those who have tried it. But it involves boring two holes through each ski--an unpardonable sacrilege in the eyes of some people. Surely, however, if we are going to commit the outrage of using sealskin at all we may just as well be hanged for a sheep as for a lamb, and bore holes or do anything else which may assist us in our fell (joke!) design.

* * * * *

=The detachable skin of Herren Sohm and Madlener= is sewn on to stout webbing, and is only about half as long as the ski themselves. It is attached to the ski immediately in front of the foot, and reaches from there to the back end. The arrangements for fixing it are extremely ingenious, and permit of its being attached or removed with great rapidity. The photographs and drawings (p. 108) show exactly what they are.

A hole is bored in the ski just in front of the binding; and another about halfway between it and the heel end of the ski. Through each of these holes a bolt passes, the bottom of which is shaped like a flat sort of button. The bolt sticks up through the ski; and it is threaded and fitted with a wing-nut. (See Fig. _a_.) When not required the button is screwed by means of the wing-nut into a recess cut for its reception in the bottom of the ski.

The front part of the skin is buttoned to the front bolt, the middle part to the second bolt, whilst the heel end has a strap sewn on to it by means of which the whole is first stretched perfectly taut, and then secured by passing the strap round the heel of the ski, and fixing it to a catch on the top of the ski. The strap is fitted with eye-holes, and the catch is of the simple, but ingenious construction shown in Fig. _b_, and in the photos.

The front part of the skin, of course, requires protection. This is afforded by soldering two pieces of sheet brass together so as to form a sharp tent-shaped =V=.

The skin, mounted on its webbing, is placed between the jaws of the =V= which are then closed and secured by a couple of copper rivets. (See Figs. _c_ and _d_.) The “button-holes” on the skin are not, of course, of the ordinary kind. The front one is shown in Fig. _d_. The second one in Fig. _f_.

The front “button-hole” is cut out of the upper part of the tent-shaped brass =V= as shown in Fig. _d_.

The second “button-hole” (Fig. _f_) allows the button to slide backwards and forwards in it so as to permit of the skin being pulled quite taut. This “button-hole” is made by simply cutting a hole and slot in another piece of sheet brass, and attaching it to the skin by means of rivets. (See Figs. _e_ and _f_.) N.B.--Only four rivets are shown in this drawing, but probably it is better to make the slot a little longer and to add another rivet at each side.

In fitting this kind of detachable skin to a pair of ordinary ski, it is probably best to fill up the customary groove cut in the bottom of the ski. The ski will then be devoted exclusively to steep mountain work where it is in any case advantageous to dispense with the groove. (See page 33.) If, however, it is desired to retain the groove it will be advisable to make the button holes extra strong, or else to make them up so as to fit close against the wood.

It will be observed (as was mentioned above) that the skin only covers about half the under surface of the ski. To prevent snow sticking to the uncovered part in warm weather, a liberal coating of wax may be applied, or else (as Herr Sohm advises) the whole of the bottom of the ski may be painted with smooth and hard enamel. This gives a very fast surface for running on, and of course no slipping back need be feared when walking up-hill with the skin attached.

* * * * *

=Climbing Irons.=--Herr Sohm recommends the use of climbing irons invented by him in combination with his detachable skin. The object of the irons is to prevent slipping on very steep icy slopes. The writer has had no experience of these, and, as criticism without practical knowledge is seldom of much value, he prefers to leave the reader to try them or leave them alone, just as he pleases. This much may, however, be safely assumed that these appliances (like the skin itself) can only be of value to the skilled ski mountaineer desirous of making long and difficult excursions in the high Alps. They are (as Herr Sohm himself insists) quite unnecessary on ordinary ground, and are certainly not for the beginner.

The climbing irons are made of some strong metal unaffected by rust, and their shape and the method of fixing them in conjunction with the skin is shown clearly in the accompanying diagrams.

* * * * *

=Tying a piece of rope to the bottom of the ski= is resorted to by some in order to help them to get up-hill. The writer has, however, never found this to be of much use. It is true that if plenty of rope is used, and if it is properly fixed (no easy matter by the way), it largely obviates slipping back; but it also seriously hinders slipping forwards, and necessitates a lifting or heavy dragging of the ski at every step. Snow is very apt to stick to the rope, and of course no glissading with it is possible. The net loss seems therefore to be greater than the gain, though possibly there may be occasions when the reader may find something of the sort useful. The plan has at least the merit of cheapness.

* * * * *

=Dipping part of the ski into water= is also recommended by some in order to help climbing, the idea being to form a lump of ice on the bottom, which may be removed when the summit is reached. But this, too, is open to much the same objections as the rope, and is scarcely worth while. If it is to be adopted, it is well to be provided with a metal paper-knife, or something of the kind, to scrape off the ice, and, incidentally, it may be here mentioned that some sort of scraping appliance will always be found useful; for cleaning one’s ski with the stick or an ordinary knife takes a long time, besides being apt to injure both the wood and the blade.

COMMON FAULTS AND FAILINGS

(Mostly dealt with already, but repeated here to impress the beginner).

I.--KIT.

(1) Too heavy clothes. Woolly clothes. Have light, wind-proof, smooth materials.

(2) Tight boots with thin soles. Have large strong boots which won’t pinch the toes, even with three pairs of socks on, and which won’t buckle in the middle of the sole.

(3) Ski brittle, of bad shape, or of great weight. Get some one who knows good ski to choose for you, or, if this is impossible, send to a good maker for his best.

(4) Too short gloves. Have long gloves to draw over the sleeves of your coat.

II.--CONDITION OF THE SNOW.

(1) Abusing the snow. The better the ski-runner the less he complains, and _vice versâ_. Notice how the good men manage.

(2) Continuing a tour when danger may be expected. Only greenhorns and fools do so. Turn back, and try another day.

(3) Waxing ski when snow is _just_ binding. Best not. The slight clinging will help you up, and won’t interfere seriously with the run. Probably, too, it will be colder higher up.

III.--TECHNIQUE.

(1) Short waddling steps on the level. Lean forward. Slide.

(2) Can’t get up hill. Raise front of ski and stamp. Don’t go too steeply. Go slowly, but keep at it.

(3) Rushing up in front of others when on tour. Don’t show off. Probably you are one of the worst of the party; in any case, you are only annoying the others.

(4) Side stepping, ski cross. Raise heel of lower ski. (See p. 60.)

(5) Can’t start down hill. Be quick about it, and then you can.

(6) Legs apart and feet level. Keep legs close together and one foot forward.

(7) Leaning back on stick. Practise without one.

(8) Falling inwards when making a down-hill curve. Lean forward! Throw the weight on to the lower ski.

(9) Telemark swing. Can’t get round. Raise heel of the back foot.

(10) Christiania swing. Ski runs off at a tangent. Hold ski together. Swing on both of them.

(11) Not learning to turn to both right and left. Don’t keep on practising that which you can already do.

(12) Dropping over a jump without sats, or recklessly hurling yourself over. Both forms of funking. Keep cool and think of your form.

(13) Jumping too late. Don’t go quite so fast, and begin to straighten up earlier.

(14) General stiffness. Don’t get into any fixed style of running. Keep on changing your ground and trying new things.

SKI-RUNNING ETIQUETTE.

Introductions are very informal on the snow.

You may ask anybody for advice, and be certain of receiving a polite answer, provided that you yourself are polite, and that your question is not idiotic.

If you contemplate joining a touring party, you should ask somebody who is going, and who has already made a tour with you, whether you are likely to be welcome. If he hesitates, don’t go. If he assents, go by all means, even though you may be doubtful whether you are up to the work in hand.

You should not instantly rush to the assistance of a lady who may have fallen. Do not let your gallantry get the better of your common sense.

In Norway ladies put on their own ski, and manage their own bindings, and it is not good manners to offer to assist them. Would that the custom extended to Switzerland!

However amusing your conversation may be, you should refrain from chattering during a long climb. Not everybody’s wind or everybody’s temper is perfect.

You will not add to your popularity on tour by continually accepting hospitality at the hands of others, especially if your water-bottle be small, and you carry no repairing outfit.

You should pay up punctually, and without demur, to the man who finances a touring party; it is at least ten to one that he is out of pocket, anyway.

It is a gross breach of manners to tread on the back of another man’s ski. You should at once apologise and fall back five yards.

You should not come plumping over a jump which others have been at some pains to construct, without first asking their leave, and it is always your solemn duty to repair as well as possible any damage you may occasion to the track.

Unless you are really a very good runner, it is better not to imitate too closely the Norwegian style of dress. People may be disappointed.

Always be polite in your dealings with foreigners, and you will seldom have cause to complain of their want of manners.

SOME USEFUL FIGURES.

1 inch = ·0254 metres 1 foot = ·3048 metres 1 yard = ·9144 metres 1000 metres = 3280 feet 1000 feet = 304·8 metres 1 metre = 39·370 inches[11] ″ = 3·280 feet ″ = 1·0933 yards 1 kilometre = 1093·3 yards 8 kilometres = 4·969 miles ″ ″ = 5 miles, less 50 yards

FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND AND ITALY.

£4 = 100 francs 4- = 5 francs 1/- = 1·25 francs 100 francs = 80 /- 5 francs = 4/- 1 franc = -/9½ about

NORWAY, &C.

£1 = 18·2 kroner 1 krone = 1/1¼ about

GERMANY.

£1 = 20·4 marks 1 mark = -/11¾ about

AUSTRIA, &C.

£1 = { 24 kronen { 10·2 florins or gulden 1 krone = -/10 1 florin or gulden = 1/11½

* * * * *

1 kilogramme = 2·2046 pounds avoirdupois. In trade 1 kilogramme is reckoned 10 per cent. more than 2lb. 11lb. = 5 kilogrammes.

* * * * *

_Temperature falls about_

1° Fahrenheit for every 300ft. rise or, say, 1° Cent. for every 200 metres.

THERMOMETER.

_Comparison between Scales of Fahrenheit, Réaumur, and the Centigrade._

CENT. FAH’T. RMR. ° ° ° 100B. 212B. 80B. 99 210·2 79·2 98 208·4 78·4 97 206·6 77·6 96 204·8 76·8

95 203 76 94 201·2 75·2 93 199·4 74·4 92 197·6 73·6 91 195·8 72·8

90 194 72 89 192·2 71·2 88 190·4 70·4 87 188·6 69·6 86 186·8 68·8

85 185 68 84 183·2 67·2 83 181·4 66·4 82 179·6 65·6 81 177·8 64·8

80 176 64 79 174·2 63·2 78 172·4 62·4 77 170·6 61·6 76 168·8 60·8

75 167 60 74 165·2 59·2 73 163·4 58·4 72 161·6 57·6 71 159·8 56·8

70 158 56 69 156·2 55·2 68 154·4 54·4 67 152·6 53·6 66 150·8 52·8

65 149 52 64 147·2 51·2 63 145·4 50·4 62 143·6 49·6 61 141·8 48·8

60 140 48 59 138·2 47·2 58 136·4 46·4 57 134·6 45·6 56 132·8 44·8

55 131 44 54 129·2 43·2 53 127·4 42·4 52 125·6 41·6 51 123·8 40·8

50 122 40 49 120·2 39·2 48 118·4 38·4 47 116·8 37·6 46 114·8 36·8

45 113 36 44 111·2 35·2 43 109·4 34·4 42 107·6 33·6 41 105·8 32·8

40 104 32 39 102·2 31·2 38 100·4 30·4 37 98·6 29·6 36 96·8 28·8

35 95 28 34 93·2 27·2 33 91·4 26·4 32 89·6 25·6 31 87·8 24·8

30 86 24 29 84·2 23·2 28 82·4 22·4 27 80·6 21·6 26 78·8 20·8

25 77 20·0 24 75·2 19·2 23 73·4 18·4 22 71·6 17·6 21 69·8 16·8

20 68 16 19 66·2 15·2 18 64·4 14·4 17 62·6 13·6 16 60·8 12·8

15 59 12 14 57·2 11·2 13 55·4 10·4 12 53·6 9·6 11 51·8 8·8

10 50 8 9 48·2 7·2 8 46·4 6·4 7 44·6 5·6 6 42·8 4·8

5 41 4 4 39·2 3·2 3 37·4 2·4 2 35·6 1·6 1 33·8 0·8

Zero 32 Zero 1 30·2 0·8 2 28·4 1·6 3 26·6 2·4 4 24·8 3·2

5 23 4 6 21·2 4·8 7 19·4 5·6 8 17·6 6·4 9 15·8 7·2

10 14 8 11 12·2 8·8 12 10·4 9·6 13 8·6 10·4 14 6·8 11·2

15 5 12 16 3·2 12·8 17 1·4 13·6 18 -- 14·4 19 2·2 15·2

20 4 16 21 5·8 16·8 22 7·6 17·6 23 9·4 18·4 24 11·2 19·2

25 13 20 26 14·8 20·8 27 16·6 21·6 28 18·4 22·4 29 20·2 23·2

30 22 24 31 23·8 24·8 32 25·6 25·6 33 27·4 26·4 34 29·2 27·2

35 31 28 36 32·8 28·8 37 24·6 29·6 38 36·4 29·6 39 38·2 31·2

40 40 32 41 41·8 32·8 42 43·6 33·6 43 45·4 34·4 44 47·2 35·2

45 49 36 46 50·8 36·8 47 52·6 37·6 48 54·4 38·4 49 56·2 39·2

_Advertisements._

=Outfit= FOR EVERY SPORT.

=SKI= from all the best makers in Norway, Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

=FASTENINGS= of every description, including the “Alpine” and the “Ellefsen.”

=CLOTHING= of the best quality and design, ready made or to order.

=BERCOLIN= (in tubes), the best ski-wax, and other lubricants.

=EVERYTHING= required by ski-runners, mountaineers, tobogganers, skaters, and tourists.

* * * * *

E. DETHLEFFSEN & CO., =BERNE=, CHRISTOFFELGASSE 7. BERR & CO., ″ ″ =VIENNA=, MARIAHILFER STR. 1C. H. SGHWAIGER, ″ ″ =MUNICH=, WEIN STR.(RATHAUS).

_Three Names._ _Three Countries._ _One Quality._

_J. Dege & Sons_,

ESTABLISHED 1865,

Military and Sporting Tailors and Breeches Makers.

LEATHERS AND ALL HUNTING SPECIALITIES.

Messrs. J. Dege & Sons beg to announce to the readers of this Manual that they have, after the most careful inquiry as to the requirements of that most attractive and exciting sport SKI-RUNNING, perfected an Outfit best suited for the purpose.

It consists of a Snowproof Suit suitable for the Sport, which at the same time is porous; and our Special Ski Cap of the same material.

Telegraphic Address: Telephone: HARK FORWARD, LONDON. 6440 GERRARD.

13, CONDUIT STREET.

DOWIE & MARSHALL

MAKE

“LAUPAR SKO” MOUNTAINEERING AND ALL KINDS OF PRACTICAL AND COMFORTABLE BOOTS.

Special lasts are made and reserved exclusively for each customer.

New customers who cannot favour D. & M. with a personal interview should send outlines of their feet taken standing, or a pair of old boots, as a guide for fitting.

_Illustrated Catalogue Gratis._

DOWIE & MARSHALL, 455, WEST STRAND, LONDON. _ESTABLISHED 1824._

Sportsmen visiting Norway may procure all Sporting Requisites OF Ludv. TORGERSEN & CO. Ltd., STORTHINGSGADEN 4, CHRISTIANIA.

MANUFACTURERS OF Ice Axes (Norwegian Pattern), Ski and Accessories, Ski Staffs, Socks, Laupar (Ski) Boots, Mitts, Lanterns, Coasters, Steering Poles, Haversacks.

SELECTED STOCK OF BREECHLOADERS AND RIFLES.

ELEY’S AMMUNITION.

Cartridges loaded to order with English Gunpowders and Newcastle Chilled Shot.

Large Assortment of FISHING TACKLE suitable for Fishing in Norway.

CARL JOHANS GADE 5, CHRISTIANIA.

LARSENS VAABENFORRETNING.

MANUFACTURERS OF SKI, SKATES, AND COASTERS (TOBOGGANS),

With their accessories of best quality. (The above always kept in stock.)

ENGLISH GUNS.

FISHING RODS and TACKLE.

Eley’s and Kynoch’s Ammunition.

Snow Shoes & ‘Ski’

Trade-Mark REINDEER HEAD.

Made out of the toughest German Ash, in accordance with the best designs and with various bindings (only first-class material used).

Direct from the Factory.

JOSEPH FISCHER,

Freiburg i. B.

SNOW-SHOE AND TOBOGGAN FACTORY.

Wood bent by Steam on the Premises--A speciality for the last 15 years.

RETAILERS RECEIVE A SUITABLE DISCOUNT.

Goods supplied to the German South-pole Expedition, to Home and Continental Military Authorities, and to Post and Forest Officials.

MY GOODS BEAR, WITHOUT EXCEPTION, THE ABOVE TRADE-MARK (REINDEER HEAD).

L. H. HAGEN & CO.,

KIRKEGADEN 19, CHRISTIANIA, NORWAY.

_Largest Assortment of Firearms and Sporting Requisites in Scandinavia._

=SKI=, of various patterns, have all been awarded Gold Medals.

=FASTENINGS=, which have obtained the highest possible awards.

=SKI OUTFITS=, and all requisites connected with Ski-ing, supplied.

=SKATES=, of Hagen’s celebrated and universally known pattern.

COASTERS, TOBOGGANS, SLEDS.

_Awarded Eleven Gold Medals. Two Grand Prix._

L. H. HAGEN & Co.

TH. HANSEN,

SKI MANUFACTURER.

HAMMERSTADG, 5. Telephone, 8589 CHRISTIANIA.

Ski of his own pattern: Awarded 1st prize. Exporter of Ash and Hickory Ski (varnished or coloured). Ski of best quality always in stock. Maker of the well-known, highly recommended Wax “Record,” to preserve the ski and prevent balling.

ASCHEHOUGS BOGHANDEL,

BOOKSELLER.

English and Foreign Books, Magazines, Periodicals, and Journals.

43, CARL JOHANS GADE, CHRISTIANIA.

THE SWISS SKI.

Made by

RICHARD STAUB, ZURICH.

_TRADE MARK._

_TRADE MARK._

THE SKI are light and elastic, and are made from the celebrated Swiss mountain ash.

=THE SKI= are fitted with either “Ellefsen’s,” or “Huitfeidt’s.” or the “Model C driving belt” bindings.

_Maker of the original Davos Toboggan, Bandy (ice-hockey) Clubs, &c._

_=LONDON DEPOT=_: With Messrs. A. W. GAMAGE,

HOLBORN.

W. C. MÖLLER,

DRAMMEN, NORWAY,

_FURRIER and MANUFACTURER of REINDEER HAIR LIFEBUOYS for YACHTS_.

CONTRACTOR TO POLAR EXPEDITIONS.

_EQUIPPED_

The National Antarctic Expedition. Duke of Abruzzi’s, The, Arctic Expedition. Ziegler’s Arctic Expedition. Baron Toll’s Arctic Expedition. Drygalski’s Antarctic Expedition. Argentine Government’s Antarctic Expedition. &c., &c.

_SUPPLIES_

Ski-Boots, Socks, Finn Mocassins, Fur Gloves, Leather Jackets, Sleeping Bags, and every kind of Fur Clothing and Requisite for Winter wear, or travelling in cold climates.

AWARDED 6 GOLD and 2 SILVER MEDALS.

THE AUSTRIAN ALPS FOR THE WINTER MONTHS.

=Skating=, =Tobogganing=, =Ski-ing=, =Sleighing=, in short every winter sport, _par excellence_.

=Innsbruck.= Seat of an English colony. Headquarters of winter sports. Climate highly recommended by the medical profession.

=Kitzbuehel.= Renowned winter resort.

=St. Anton= (Arlberg). Excellent Ski-ing centre.

=Gossensass.= Every Winter sport.

=Cortina d’Ampezzo.= Eminently suitable for winter sojourn.

=The Semmering=, near Vienna. Highly recommended for winter sports.

=Meran.= The pearl of Austrian health resorts.

=Salzburg.= Capital and Dukedom. Excellently suited for the winter.

=Bozen-Gries=, =Trent=, =Rovereto=, =Arco=, =Riva=, &c. Excellent places for winter sojourn.

=WINTER TOURS TO THE AUSTRIAN ALPS.= For particulars and pamphlets (free) write or call:--

THE AUSTRIAN TRAVEL & INFORMATION BUREAU, 86, PICCADILLY, LONDON, W.

WILSON LINE.

WINTER SPORTS IN NORWAY.

REDUCED WINTER FARES.

(From 1st October, 1905 to 30th April, 1906.)

FROM =HULL= TO =CHRISTIANSAND=. . AND . =CHRISTIANIA=.

First-class, Single £3 3s. 0d. ” Return £5 5s. 0d. Second-class, Single £2 10s. 0d. ” Return £4 0s. 0d. Victualling included.

_Intended Sailings_...

From HULL every FRIDAY evening.

From CHRISTIANIA every FRIDAY, 10 a.m., calling at CHRISTIANSAND Friday night.

_For further information apply to_

Messrs. The UNITED SHIPPING Co., Ltd., 108, Fenchurch Street, LONDON, E.C.

Messrs. T. COOK & SON, Ludgate Circus, LONDON, E.C. or to

Messrs. THOS. WILSON, SONS, & Co., Ltd. HULL.

BEFORE PURCHASING SOUVENIRS BE SURE TO VISIT BENNETT’S Photograph and Curiosity Stores.

Unrivalled Stock of Photos, Silver, Fancy Articles, Guide Books, Maps, Books on Norway, Tauchnitz Edition, &c.

TRAVELLING AND HOTEL COUPONS ISSUED.

Every Information furnished relative to Travelling in Norway. Money Exchanged.

THOS. BENNETT &. SONS, CARL JOHANS GADE 35, CHRISTIANIA. _By Special Appointment, Dealers to Her Majesty Queen Alexandra._

WILLIAM SCHMIDT,

41, CARL JOHANS GADE, CHRISTIANIA.

GENTLEMEN’S OUTFITTERS.

SPORTING . REQUISITES . AND . CLOTHING.

H. HORN & Co. Egertorvet, CHRISTIANIA.

GENTLEMEN’S OUTFITTERS.

=GRAN HOTEL=, BOLKESJÖ, NORWAY.

Proprietor, M. HAFSTEN.

First-class accommodation. Moderate terms.

Beautifully situated in Telemarken. Most suitable quarters for Ski-ing and Winter Sports. Eight hours from Christiania--rail to Kongsberg, drive thence to Bolkesjö. Telephonic communication with all parts. Highly recommended.

CHAMONIX.

WINTER SEASON.

_The Electric Railway from Le Fayet St. Gervais to Chamonix is now running the whole year round._

GRAND HOTEL PENSION.

COUTTET et du PARC.

SKI-RUNNING, SKATING, TOBOGGANING.

EXTENSIVE ICE RINK IN SUNNY POSITION.

_All small Mountain Excursions may be made in Winter._

CENTRAL HEATING, ELECTRIC LIGHT.

M. COUTTET, who is himself an enthusiastic Ski-Runner, and has ascended in Winter on Ski the Col du Geant, 11,056ft., the Col du Midi, 11,700ft., and traversed from Chamonix to Zermatt by the High Level Route, &c., is able to give all information concerning the district.

For full particulars apply to the Proprietors,

COUTTET BROTHERS, Hotel Couttet, Chamonix, France.

CAUX, ABOVE TERRITET, MONTREUX. Lake of Geneva, Switzerland.

CAUX PALACE & GRAND HOTEL.

Splendid position, with magnificent view of the Alps. Central, full south.

_HEATED THROUGHOUT BY STEAM._

Concert three times a day. Grand Balls. Magnificent Hall.

One of the finest Hotels, With first-rate Cuisine.

GRINDELWALD.

HOTELS BEAR AND ADLER.

WINTER SPORTS:

SKI-RUNNING, SKATING, TOBOGGANING, CURLING.

BOSS BROTHERS, Proprietors.

DAVOS PLATZ.

GRAND HOTEL BELVEDERE

IS

The best Hotel for Ski Runners, and the headquarters of the Davos English Ski Club.

GRAND HOTEL BELVEDERE

HAS

Baths on every floor, and the most modern recently installed sanitary arrangements.

GRAND HOTEL BELVEDERE

IS

Close to the big Skating Rink, Where the International Skating Competitions are held.

GRAND HOTEL BELVEDERE

HAS

Electric light throughout, private spring water supply, central heating, and a rational and well varied cuisine.

GRAND HOTEL BELVEDERE

IS

Close to the Schatz Alp Cable Railway, which takes passengers up 1000 feet in a few minutes.

GRAND HOTEL BELVEDERE

HAS

A large Ball Room, where balls, dances, orchestral concerts, &c., are given throughout the winter season.

GRAND HOTEL BELVEDERE IS THE BEST HOTEL IN DAVOS PLATZ.

AUSTRIAN TIROL, KITZBÜHEL

(_Two hours beyond Innsbruck_).

PENSION SCHLOSS LEBENBERG.

UNDER ENGLISH MANAGEMENT. OPEN ALL THE YEAR. EXCELLENT CUISINE. EVERY COMFORT.

As a Ski-ing Centre KITZBÜHEL _STANDS UNRIVALLED_.

Owing to the formation of the slopes, Kitzbühel has been pronounced by experts to be one of the finest Ski-ing grounds in Europe.

The position of Lebenberg enables Visitors to start in any direction from the Schloss.

The Climate of Kitzbühel is noted for the absence of wind and the amount of sunshine. It is therefore

AN IDEAL WINTER RESORT.

Tobogganing and Skating can also be indulged in.

Sleigh races and Ski-ing competitions are held yearly.

_For Illustrated Prospectus and further particulars apply to the Proprietor_,

_PENSION SCHLOSS LEBENBERG_,

KITZBÜHEL, AUSTRIAN TIROL.

5,000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA.

_Feldberg_ in the _Black Forest_.

Nearest and most favourable Ski-ing ground for England.

Railway Station: TITISEE, via FREIBURG, BADEN.

HOTEL FELDBERGER HOF.

The Hotel contains 150 Rooms, with 200 beds, and has two annexes--The Jaegermattte, with 25 rooms and 40 beds, and the Turm Hotel, with 28 rooms and 48 beds.

SPLENDID SKI-ING COUNTRY.

The Hotel has been greatly enlarged and contains every modern comfort, including electric light, central heating throughout, lift, billiard-room, skittle-alley, beer-room, drying-rooms, store-room for ski, two baths in every storey, and suites of rooms.

Pension Prices for a six days’ stay.

Tobogganing road to Titisee.

Post and Telegraph Office on the Premises. Telegraphic Address: “Feldberg, Schwarzwald.”

Proprietors: MAYER AND SCHLADERER.

_CURHAUS-DAVOS_, DAVOS-PLATZ, SWITZERLAND.

INTERNATIONAL HOTEL.

_Board and Lodging for 8 shillings and upwards._

ALPINE SPORT.

SKI-ING, TOBOGGANING, SKATING.

_DAVOS DORF, SWITZERLAND, FLUELA POST AND SPORT HOTEL._

Exclusively reserved for Sportsmen and through Travellers.

NO ACCOMMODATION FOR INVALIDS.

PROSPECTUS WITH TERMS ON APPLICATION. =A. GREDIG SON=, _Proprietor_.

“SKI” & “ALPINER WINTERSPORT”

Edited by H. A. TANNER, Basle, Switzerland.

“=SKI.=”--The illustrated official organ of all the Ski Clubs in Central Europe. Correspondence from all parts of the world.

“=ALPINER WINTERSPORT.=”--A journal dealing with all Winter Sports. Published in English, French, German, and Italian, and read by members of the various English colonies on the Continent. English correspondence is always welcome.

=BOTH PAPERS= are forwarded together, and may be obtained through every Bookseller and Post-Office; or from the Editor in Basle.

LIGHT AND FIRM.

Ellefsen’s Binding

SIMPLE AND STRONG.

NORWEGIAN WINTER SPORTS.

Direct, convenient, and economical route from England to =Christiania= (the centre for all Norwegian winter sports) by the magnificent Mail and Passenger Steamers

“=Sovereign=” and “=Sterling=,”

sailing from =Newcastle= (Tyne Dock) every Friday evening. Fare £3 3s. 0d. single or £5 5s. 0d. return, inclusive of victualling.

FOR FURTHER PARTICULARS APPLY TO THE AGENTS:-- P. H. MATTHIESSEN & CO., NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. _Telegraphic Address: “Matthiessen.”_

SHEW CAMERAS.

- THE -TELE-XIT.

A Half-plate Camera which can be carried without fatigue, opened without complications, closed as a =box, measures only 8 by 5 by 2 ins.=, and perfectly rigid at full extension.

The Pocket XIT. 4¼ by 3¼ ins. from £6 6s.

“For SIMPLICITY, LIGHTNESS, and RANGE OF SUBJECTS for which it can be used, I think the XIT cannot be beaten.”

SEE NEW LIST FOR 1906 FREE OF:--

=J. F. SHEW & Co.=, Manufacturers and Patentees of Specialities in Photographic Appliances. =NEWMAN ST.=, 4 Doors off Oxford St., =LONDON, W.=

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: _Ski_ is really the same word as the English _skid_, meaning a slide, or something to slide upon, the affinity being even greater in the Swedish term _skid_ (plural, _skidor_), meaning slides or skates. Originally it doubtless springs from the Finnish _subsi_ or _suksi_, by which appellation the ski were probably known long before their introduction to Scandinavia.]

[Footnote 2: “W.T.,” _T.P.’s Weekly_, p. 226, Feb., 1904.]

[Footnote 3: Scandinavian _skrïde_ = to slide, glide, slip.]

[Footnote 4: The names of the best known of these Telemarkings were, Knut Olafsen Haugen, Aasmund Brække, Sveinung Svalastoga, and the “Hemmestvedt gutter” (Torjus and Mikkel Hemmestvedt).--ED.]

[Footnote 5: Probably also on most of our own mountains.]

[Footnote 6: To judge by the number of utterly foolish bindings on the market, this is a point which usually escapes the inventor-novice.]

[Footnote 7: Look at the frontispiece for an example of first-class level-running.]

[Footnote 8: In competitions the jump is measured from the point where the runner leaves the ground to the middle of the deepest part of the impression which his ski make on alighting.]

[Footnote 9: The ski which are suitable for ordinary excursions on undulating ground are not necessarily equally useful for long mountain climbs. In the one case ski-running pure and simple is the object in view, in the other the ski are merely a means to an end--the ascent of some difficult summit or pass. Some remarks as to the kind of instrument which may be found serviceable for the latter purpose are to be found at p. 34, and in the chapter on “Aids to Climbing.”--ED.]

[Footnote 10: This, perhaps, scarcely goes far enough. The outfit suitable for undulating wooded ground on which a runner may attain to great skill is not equally serviceable high up. In particular, a cap covering most of the face and neck, smoked glasses or the simple arrangement described on p. 50, a light wind-jacket of some sort, extra-thick gloves, extra-thick socks, and extra-stout nailed boots are essential. The runner should accustom himself to carrying a large heavy rucksack, which is a disagreeable, but, alas! an indispensable, companion on a long mountain tour.--ED.]

[Footnote 11: The exact figures are not as yet settled, and are given--39·37043196 39·37079, 39·37008, &c.]

[Transcriber’s Note:

The Contents reference to “Side stepping ... Page 69” erroneously refers to “SIDE-SLIPPING” on Page 69.

Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.]