PART II.

OUTFIT.

THE SKI.

Almost every valley in Norway had at one time its own special type of ski, supposed by its inhabitants to be peculiarly suited to their requirements; and in other lands the variations have been no less numerous and remarkable. Those interested in antiquities of this kind are recommended to visit Herr Welhaven’s very large and complete collection in Christiania, which it is to be hoped the Norwegian nation will acquire and exhibit in a suitable museum before it is purchased by some wealthy foreigner. We do not propose to weary the ordinary reader with a minute description of the various types, especially as time has shown the special virtues claimed for them to have been largely imaginary. The very curious Oesterdal ski are, however, worthy of special notice. In that district the natives used on the left foot a very long (about 11ft.) and narrow ski, and on the right a shorter (about 8ft.) and broader one, covered with elk’s or seal’s skin. The hairy ski was used to push, climb, and turn on, and was called the _Andor_; whilst the long one, called the _Langski_, was for resting on when running straight. The long ski was of special value in crossing the hard, lumpy snow so common in that wind-swept region. There was much sense in this arrangement, for in point of fact one does as a rule, even now, run on one ski and steer with the other; but we fancy that the uneven movements on the level must have been somewhat fatiguing. Be this as it may, the _Andor_ and the _Langski_ are now practically extinct, and in hilly countries the _Telemark_ ski has now superseded all others. In Sweden, Finland, and Russia, and in flat countries generally, a very long, thin, and narrow ski is found to be faster. The curve in front is very flat, and there are considerable variations in the form of groove used underneath. But for a mountainous country these are too long for up-hill work, and the sharp, flat point is not suitable for glissading. The Telemark type can, on the other hand, be used everywhere, and we have no hesitation in recommending it to our readers.

To the inexperienced eye there is very little difference between the shape of the ski used by the Telemarkings who first came to Christiania and those now for sale in that town or on the Continent. Differences, however, do exist, and some of them are important; besides which it is unquestionably pleasant to be the owner of a handsome pair of ski which, in addition to possessing certain advantages, are always a source of gratification to oneself and of envy and admiration to one’s friends. We will accordingly mention all the points of a really good pair, beginning with the most important.

THE WOOD.

It is, of course, necessary that they should be made of very well-seasoned wood, but, unless you happen to be a timber expert, you will have to take your dealer’s word for this. Ash is the wood most widely used, and the one which we would recommend the beginner to purchase. Hickory ski are faster than ash, but they are considerably heavier, and frequently brittle. Fir ski are cheap, light, and suitable for children, but it is difficult to get really good wood strong enough for adults; moreover, they are considerably slower than ash. Walnut is also said to be excellent, but it is difficult to procure in long enough and straight enough planks, and it is little used. A combination of pine and hickory is often employed for racing, where extreme lightness and speed are of importance, but it is not as strong as good ash.

Having decided on the wood, see that the grain is as straight as possible, and that if at any place it runs out its lines when doing so point downwards towards the heel, and not upwards towards the toe; otherwise when the ski begins to wear splinters will be formed, which will stick downwards into the snow and act as brakes. Beware of very light ash, which is apt to be brittle; the best is somewhat heavy even when thoroughly dry and well seasoned. By-and-by, when you have acquired some skill, you may perhaps like to have a pair of light ski for the mountains where you intend to go carefully and take no risks, and where consequently the chance of a break is considerably less; but you will appreciate them all the more if you have got into the way of using a heavier article down below.

SHAPE.

The bend in front is of importance. It should begin very gradually at a point about four-fifths of the distance between the heel end and the tip, and should not be too steep. A rise of about 5in., measuring from the ground to the bottom of the tip, is amply sufficient. A good ski should also be fairly “whippy” about the point, but the elasticity should be distributed gradually from centre to tip, and should not come suddenly at one point only. We also like a ski to be broad at the bend, a shade broader even than the beautiful form shown in Figs. 4 and 5. The two qualities of gentleness of curve and breadth at the tip assist a rapid passage _on the top_ of smooth snow, whilst the elasticity is valuable on lumpy ground, besides being conducive to lightness. The desirability of elasticity is, we think, a reason for eschewing the round-upper-sided ski sometimes sold in Norway. The round upper-side does not, of course, permit of so much loose snow resting upon it as the flat, but it makes the front part of the ski very stiff, and consequently unpleasant to run on, slow, and liable to break.

Besides the bend at the point, there is a long upward curve throughout the length of the ski, running from heel to entrance. The object of this is, of course, to prevent any bending in the opposite direction caused by the weight of the body; it also serves to provide an agreeable elasticity when one is running on the level.

COLOUR.

The colour of the ski is very largely a matter of taste, and in nine days out of ten is of no practical importance. Every now and again, however, there will be a time when the sun will beat fiercely on dark-coloured ski and warm them, causing the snow to adhere to them top and bottom more readily than to those of lighter colour, which throw off a greater proportion of the rays. For which reason we unhesitatingly give our vote for plain varnished or white-painted ski. Black-painted ski are, however, very common in Norway. They look very smart and present a pleasing contrast to the snow, and they are frequently recommended for mountain use, for the reason that when the eye is dazzled by vast expanses of unbroken white they afford a valuable point of focus, and so act as a preventive to snow-blindness. We would, however, strongly advise the reader not to rely too much on this, or sooner or later his eyes will surely be affected. Smoked goggles, or some such arrangement as that recommended on page 50, are infinitely preferable to any black paint. Besides which, plain varnished ski are ever so much darker than the snow, and one can focus one’s eyes almost equally well on them. The painting of ski is, on the other hand, often a cunning device on the part of unscrupulous dealers to hide defects in the wood--a fact which may account for their popularity to a greater extent than the guileless may suppose.

Having, then, given our vote for plain-varnished, flat-topped, fairly heavy ash ski of Telemark type, with a long, easy, flattish elastic entrance and a broadish point, it remains for us to consider how broad they shall be at the middle and how long over all, and whether they shall or shall not be provided with a groove underneath them running from end to end. We approach these questions with a certain degree of diffidence, for, in the first place, investigations with a view to their answer have not been, and perhaps cannot be, carried out with much scientific precision, and, in the second place, they will always remain very largely matters of personal taste.

SMOOTH-BOTTOMED AND BROAD _versus_ GROOVED AND LONG.

Evidently to some extent the length and breadth of a ski must be proportionate to the weight of the runner, a certain degree of carrying surface being necessary to obviate sinking. But, apart from all questions of support, length is of great importance. In this respect ski resemble ships, for, generally speaking, the longer they are the faster they go. Area for area long ski are faster than broad. On the other hand, the shorter a ski is the more readily it will turn, and it is, of course, very important to be able to steer easily. There comes a point, however, when ease of turning develops into wobbling, and seriously interferes with one’s balance when running straight. Nor is the unsteadiness of short and broad ski confined to what may be considered as _horizontal_ wobbling, due to inequalities of the ground, but broad ski are also more subject to what may be regarded as _vertical_ wobbling, due to unequal snow consistency. For in the case of the long ski variations in the carrying power of the snow and consequent errors of balance occur in a backward and forward direction, but in the case of a broad ski in a sideward direction, which latter is, of course, more upsetting.

Again, almost all ski are nowadays provided with a groove along the bottom, beginning at a point a little distance below the bend and continuing to the heel. The object of this is to prevent _horizontal_ wobbling and to assist straight running. Its working is most powerful. Clearly, then, some sort of compromise must be arrived at between a very smooth and broad ski on the one hand, and a very long and grooved one on the other. Now in Norway straight running is all the order of the day. Around Christiania there is scarcely a hill which cannot be, and is not, taken at full speed, and the smooth, glacier polished mountains of that country are equally suitable for a straight descent. In the Black Forest, too, straight running is paramount. For these countries we recommend grooved ski about as long as the distance between the ground and the roots of the fingers when the hand is held above the head, and of a width proportionate to the weight of the runner. In Switzerland, however, the ground is both steeper and more irregular, and in general far more difficult for straight running, hidden water-courses, rocks, and other obstacles being of common occurrence. There, it is accordingly of paramount importance to the beginner to be able to control his speed and to turn, and our advice is that in that country he should, for ordinary going, use somewhat shorter and slightly broader ski--say, about 6in. shorter than in Norway. We advise him _for all-round purposes_ in Switzerland to retain the groove. But if he is going to do much climbing on very steep and difficult ground, or if he is advancing in years and has lost something of his pristine dash, he may find it convenient to omit the groove and to travel on perfectly smooth boards.

LONG ALPINE TOURS.

For really long and arduous mountain tours in the Alps, where every ounce of weight tells, we would recommend a further reduction of about a foot in all from the customary Norwegian length, and only a slight increase (if, indeed, any) in the ordinary breadth. On such expeditions careful going and power of control are of paramount importance, and ski-running becomes more of a means to an end than an end in itself. A little extra sinking in up-hill is not of much moment, and is more than equalised by the gain in lightness; and down-hill the loss in speed is of no consequence--indeed, in some cases a positive advantage. On such ski, too, the groove is better omitted.

ORDINARY USE.

The following table may help the reader to select ski of about the usual Norwegian proportions:--

HEIGHT OF THE SKI-RUNNER. --------+--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+----- | | |4' 3"|5' 0"|5' 3"|5' 5"|5' 7"|5' 9" |5' 11"| | ---- |Up to| to | to |to | to | to | to | to |Over | |4' 3"|5' 0"|5' 3"|5' 5"|5' 7 |5' 9"|5' 11"|6' 1" |6' 1" ========+========+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+======+======+===== }| Under | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | | | | WEIGHT }|10 STONE| 51" | 59" | 65" | 71" | 77" | -- | -- | -- | -- }|--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+----- OF }| 10 TO | | | | 2¾" | 2¾" | 2¾" | 2¾" | | THE }|13 STONE| -- | -- | -- | 71" | 75" | 79" | 83" | -- | -- }|--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+----- SKI- }| OVER | | | | | | 3" | 3" | 3" | 3" RUNNER.}|13 stone| -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | 79" | 83" | 87" | 91" --------+--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------------

PRESERVATION.

Ski should be treated properly if they are to retain their full efficiency. It is a capital plan to oil them from time to time like a cricket bat. Linseed oil is best for the purpose, and a small quantity of paraffin should be added to it to help it to penetrate. This treatment hardens the wood, and renders it waterproof and not liable to splinter. Ski should be kept in a cool place, but should they be taken out of a warm room they should be left standing in the cold air for about ten minutes before they are allowed to touch the snow. One should avoid walking on them over earth and stones. After use they should be cleaned. To “set” them, place their under sides in contact, and strap them loosely together at the points where they touch--viz., extreme heel end and base of the tip. Insert a piece of wood about 2in. square and ½in. thick at a spot indicated by the usual position of your boot-heel; then strap tightly. They will then be in close touch at the ends, 2in. apart under the heel, and the “feathering” is thus preserved.

THE BINDING.

No part of a beginner’s outfit is likely to cause him so much “sweet sorrow” as his binding. The chances are enormous that whatever he buys will afford him plenty to think about, and, alas! to talk about, for a considerable time to come. During his early efforts he is certain to attribute most of his misfortunes to its manifest imperfections, and if, as we hope, he is a person of an inventive turn of mind, he will spend the greater part of his evenings, and perhaps even some of the watches of the night, in designing something new and original which will at one and the same time overcome all his difficulties and make his fortune.

It is our sincere desire to assist him in this laudable endeavour, and accordingly we shall give below a few of the qualities which a perfect binding ought to possess. Before proceeding to do so it will, however, be necessary to notice some of those actual forms which other ski-runners use or have used--a task which is not nearly so agreeable or so easy. For legion is their name, and it is difficult to make a selection without hurting somebody’s feelings. During the early days of the sport in Central Europe (that is to say, till quite recently) the fiercest controversy raged about bindings (see p. 15). But now, partly because of the impossibility of saying anything new on the subject, and partly because the discovery has been made that after all one’s fastening is not of paramount importance, the topic is no longer of absorbing interest. Not but what our Teutonic friends retain their love of controversy, and their earnest methods of conducting such, but the Scotchman in search of an argument would do better to start some theme other than bindings, as, for example, seal’s skin or wax. A reaction has, in fact, set in, and whereas two years ago the most complicated was the best, we were surprised last season to find a Continental friend using the old (and very excellent) Lapp binding, which was so much in vogue in Norway years ago when we first learnt to go on ski. He, of course, was under the impression that he had the very latest thing, and we did not enlighten him, but we should not be much astonished to find him next year twisting birch twigs after the manner of the early Telemarkings!

Now this plan of making a stiff and strong rope by twisting birch twigs was the earliest method of connecting the _heel_ of the foot with the ski. Prior to that a strap across the toe was all that was used. Any other arrangement was considered dangerous. Then came the Telemarkings (see p. 9) with their new methods. They bound the ski firmly to the toe, and lead ropes of twisted birch from the toe round the back of the heel. This arrangement was at once felt to be an advantage. Not only did it prevent the foot continually slipping out of the toe strap, but it relieved the toe itself from much of the strain involved when the ski has to be pulled forward in walking on the level or up hill; moreover, it enormously helped steering, and so it was adopted.

SOME COMMON FASTENINGS.

People living in towns, however, either could not procure birch twigs or lacked skill in preparing and fixing ropes made from them. Something else had to be substituted, and that something was the thin cane, which so long held the field. The canes were steamed, and bent round the back of the heel and secured in front by a clamp. This form of binding was and still is widely used. But the canes, even when covered with leather and strengthened with steel wire, were found to be inconvenient. They broke and they were cumbersome, and the guiding power they allowed of was limited. So taboo was broken and metal was admitted into the construction of the fastening. Contrary, however, to expectation, people’s legs did not break oftener than before, and, as the iron also stood the strain, a binding like that given below (Fig. 6) became very popular.

The LAPP BINDING shown above is Huitfeldt’s pattern. The novelty about it was the iron toe piece; the thong arrangement had long been used by the Lapps. As previously mentioned, many people still employ this binding, and when skilfully adjusted it can be very firm, and it possesses the merits of extreme simplicity and ease of repair.

We have, however, several objections to it. In the first place, it takes some little practice and some little strength to fix the thong properly, an operation rendered doubly difficult when the leather is frozen and the fingers cold. Again, the thong, especially if changes of temperature occur, is continually expanding and contracting; the knots in it are apt to make sore places on the foot, and, like a boot-lace, it has an irritating way of breaking just when one is in a hurry. Again, the iron toe piece must be _most carefully_ adjusted to fit the boot. In short, we dislike the whole fastening for the reason that, unless it is very carefully put on and attended to, it becomes altogether toe wobbly.

The HUITFELDT BINDING given above is considered by many people to be an improvement on the Lapp binding, and it has attained a vast popularity in Norway. In principle it differs from the latter but little; but very stout straps are substituted for the thong with its troublesome knots, and the iron toe-piece is made of a solid piece of metal, which is bent up on either side of the ski, and which can be hammered into the exact shape of the sole of the boot. This is an advantage, as an accurate fit is insured. The disadvantage is that it is liable to be bent out of shape by the heavy-soled boot which it is necessary to wear with this and with the Lapp-binding. The straps, with it too, expand and contract with the temperature, and a very slight degree of slackness is sufficient to make the whole very loose. Moreover, the side straps catch the snow to some extent and act as a brake, though usually this is not of much consequence. The Huitfeldt binding is also troublesome to put on firmly, especially when the straps are frozen. Höyer-Ellefsen’s shortening clamp (Fig. 8) is designed to get over this difficulty, but it is new, and we have not had sufficient experience of it to offer any criticism.

We now come to a new class of fastening, where the heel is connected with the ski by means of some sort of sole, generally made of the “belting” used for driving machinery, fixed to the top of the ski in front of the toe. There are innumerable variations of this plan, a very simple one being to fix a piece of the belting in front of the foot and to attach it to the heel of the boot by means of a dummy heel and a strap leading round the instep. The toe is held in position either by side irons and a strap, as in the Huitfeldt binding, or by a simple broad strap passing through the ski and buckling across the toe. In the latter form it has attained to considerable popularity on the Continent, especially in the Black Forest. We do not, however, think it worth while to give a picture of this fastening, as it is not one which we can recommend for any purpose. The dummy heel fills up with snow, and becomes uncomfortable; and as to the belting, one is in this dilemma, that if one uses it thin it buckles and if one uses it very thick it becomes heavy and too stiff for comfortable walking unless it be fastened very far forward, in which case it rises off the ski at every step and presses the toe against the toe strap, thereby causing discomfort and cold feet.

TORGERSEN’S “HANDRY” BINDING (Fig. 9) is, we think, vastly preferable, for it has no heel to collect snow, and the belting, only reaching half-way down the foot, is not so liable to buckle.

It cannot, however, claim to be a really firm binding, though if the strap leading from the belting round the instep be pulled tight (and a tight strap at this part of the foot does not seem to affect the circulation) it is not so loose as might be supposed at first sight. But the chief advantage of Torgersen’s binding is its extreme adjustability. It will fit almost anybody, and can be taken on and off in a moment. On this account it is a very good binding for clubs or shopmen in Switzerland who let out ski to a number of different people for short periods. Its only moderate firmness also recommends it to nervous beginners who want to run straight and fast, and who are afraid of the slight extra risk involved by using a rigid fastening.

ELLEFSEN’S PATENT BINDING (Fig. 10) is of the same class. It appeared last season (1904-5), and has scarcely been in use long enough to allow of exhaustive criticism.

As with Torgersen’s, the belting only reaches about half-way down the foot, where it is terminated by an iron cross-piece with upright cheeks fitting on either side of the heel (see Fig. 10). From these cheeks a strap leads round the back of the heel, by means of which the belting is pulled tight. This stretching of the belting is the novelty of the arrangement, and is very ingenious, as, of course, it prevents all buckling. The iron toe-pieces are much the same as in Huitfeld, but they are fixed firmly to the ski by means of the little metal tongues which are part of them. The tongues at the same time secure the driving belt under the toe, giving it due stiffness in a vertical direction and preventing pressure of the toe strap. But obviously this is the weak spot of the front part of the arrangement, and unless the belting is of the very best quality it is liable to tear there. The makers, however, claim that the best belting will not tear, and time alone can decide whether this is so or not. The binding is not readily adjustable, and when ordering it is necessary to send a sketch of the boot which one intends to use with it.

The figure with the boot also shows a little strap sewn on to the heel of the boot to prevent the heel straps slipping off. This is very useful with all the above-named fastenings. See _infra_, pp. 47 and 48.]

The LILIENFELD BINDING has caused more discussion and provoked more criticism than any other. It, too, is on the “sole” principle, but differs from all others in this respect, that (except for the heel and toe straps) it is made entirely of metal.

The vertical axis of the sole is, moreover, placed _in front_ of the toe, and not under it as in other fastenings, and vertical stiffness is secured by means of a very ingenious spring arrangement embedded in the ski. This shifting of the axis forward makes the binding feel curious at first, but one gets accustomed to it after a while, and then it becomes very comfortable and pleasant. An objection to the plan is, however, that one is deprived of much control over the heel of the ski, and is placed, so to speak, at the mercy of the spring. It is, however, often convenient to raise the heel of the ski when going up hill, and it is annoying to find when one tries to do so that it refuses to obey on account of the spring being insufficiently screwed up. On the other hand, if the spring be tight the heel keeps “clappering” up and down at every step. Another decidedly bad point about this fastening is its weight. It is unquestionably heavy. It is necessary, therefore, to use a considerably lighter ski with it than with any of the ordinary arrangements, and light ski are apt to be brittle. It is, however, a very powerful binding, very suitable for making “S” turns on steep and difficult ground. It seldom or never breaks, and it is adjustable to almost any boot. It is usually sold fitted to a special ski with a hole in it cut for the spring. The so-called “Alpine skee” is shortish, broadish, and flat-bottomed, with a sharply turned-up bluff entrance. These qualities render it less suitable for straight running, but useful for turning on the mountain-side, for which special purpose it is, indeed, designed. People somewhat advanced in years will find the “Alpine skee,” with its special fastening, of value for mountain tours, and it is, we think, easier to learn to turn on it than on any other; but your dashing youth and your jumper will certainly prefer the Norwegian article. Of course, the Lilienfeld fastening can be fixed to a Telemark ski.

METHOD OF FIXING.

The right way of attaching all the above-named bindings to the boot will have been evident from the descriptions appended to each. It is sufficient to observe here that the straps (and particularly the toe-straps) should never be pulled tighter than occasion demands. Tight straps are the surest road to frost-bite, besides being very uncomfortable. For all ordinary going--that is to say, during far the greater length of time that the ski are on the feet--the straps may be worn comparatively loose. It is quite easy to tighten them up for a difficult piece of ground or a jump, and there is no occasion to run unnecessary risks.

Another important matter is that with all ordinary bindings care should be taken not to thrust the foot too far into the toe-strap. The toe-strap should never cross the foot lower than the middle of the great toe. People are apt to neglect this simple precaution, but in doing so they run the risk of spraining the foot in the event of a fall forwards. In the case of the Lilienfeld binding, it is not necessary to be quite so careful, as with it the vertical axis is in front of the foot.

CONCLUSION.

The beginner who has read the above remarks probably realises by now that _there is no such thing as a perfect ski binding which will satisfy everybody_! Some people want extreme lateral rigidity, others a little play, and others, again, comparative looseness. It is much the same with the vertical movement; if very stiff there is great control, valuable for jumping and for lifting the heel in steep hill climbing, but the ski “clappers” on the level. If very loose, the toe has to carry too much weight,[6] and the advantages of stiffness vanish. There can really be no such thing as a happy mean in these matters, and everybody must choose that which on the whole is best suited to his requirements. Nor can any form of fastening last for ever, and the most that one can expect is that a binding should not be continually giving way. Do not, therefore, begin by worrying yourself too much about this part of your equipment. Buy one or other of the bindings depicted above which you think will suit you best, and learn all about its little peculiarities and something about ski-running before you decide that it is no good. Above all things, avoid boring your more experienced friends with binding talk, of which they have all had enough and to spare.

FOOT-PLATES.

In order to protect the ski and to prevent snow adhering to it under the foot it is necessary to fix some sort of anti-sticking material to that part which is touched by the boot; and a thin plate of some non-corrosive metal is best for this purpose; the india-rubber or seal’s skin commonly sold are of little use, and soon wear out.

THE STICK.

The stick is a good servant, but a bad master. It is little used by first-class runners, except to enable them to increase the speed by punting. There can, however, be no doubt that it greatly assists a beginner in preserving his balance on difficult ground and in turning. On the other hand, it is equally certain that it is frequently the cause of his adopting a bad style, of spoiling his balance, and of hindering or entirely blocking his progress in the art of turning. To jump with a stick in the hand is most dangerous, and, of course, there is always the possibility of the stick being lost or broken on tour.

Accordingly there are those who recommend the beginner to leave this part of his outfit at home; and much is to be said in favour of such advice, especially in the case of a young and active pupil. When, however, it is argued that anybody who can go on ski without a stick will not have any difficulty in subsequently taking to one, we venture to differ. Perhaps in rare cases it may be so, but we have had a somewhat extensive experience of beginners of all ages, and we have always found it otherwise. The novice who has learnt without a stick seems to be greatly embarrassed when one is first placed in his hand. Moreover, we have met not a few ski-runners, no longer novices, who make very pretty Telemark and Christiania swings on the practice ground with hands free, but who break down hopelessly on tour when encumbered with a stick. But everybody is agreed that a stick of some sort or other should be taken on tour, and we fail to see the use of these pretty manœuvres if they cannot be accomplished when really most required. This, however, is far from being the whole case for the pole. What is your poor elderly friend to do when he tumbles in deep snow? It frequently requires considerable activity to get up under such circumstances, and what is here mentioned half in jest might really be an ugly matter. Besides, nobody over twenty-five can be expected to enjoy continual struggling head downwards. People get exhausted, people begin to think that it is impossible to learn, and people take to some inferior sport which they find easier, and therefore more amusing. Did you mutter “Let them go”? Nay; but there we touch the very root of the matter. Is ski-running merely a pretty form of athletics for the few, or is it a noble sport for the people, leading them forth from stuffy houses and narrow roads to the glories of the winter landscape? Surely the latter; and we would rather the runner sat on his pole at every hill and visited the woods and mountains than that he was the cleverest performer on the practice ground and went nowhere else. “But,” it is said, “if the beginner accustoms himself to run with a stick in his hand he will be quite helpless when he loses it or breaks it, or when he wishes to jump.” This is, of course, to some extent true, but the case is not so bad as all that. In reality, as above hinted, it is a good deal easier to run without a stick than with one after a certain stage has been reached; our experience is that the more advanced pupil soon learns to appreciate this, and that the transition from stick to no stick is seldom difficult. Besides, there is no reason to carry matters to extremes and _never_ to practise with the arms free.

Our advice, then, is:--_Begin by carrying a stick in the hand, but use it only to overcome a difficulty. Endeavour to be as independent of it as possible, and practise sometimes without it._

Shall the ski-runner use two sticks or one? and shall it or they be furnished with a basket arrangement at the end (see Fig. 12)? These are questions which have also been much discussed, and frequently rather unprofitably. We think that it all depends on circumstances. Two light bamboos with wicker-work discs (Norwegian _Trindser_) at the end are very serviceable when one has got beyond the beginner’s stage. They help one up hill and along the level, and down hill they may be trailed behind in each hand, or on difficult ground held together and used as one. The discs are, of course, intended to prevent the point penetrating the snow to too great a depth--_not_ to act as brakes. But on very steep and hard mountain sides where one may find oneself--sometimes with a precipice below--they are far from being a source of comfort. On such occasions one prefers to have a single stout staff, which one can thrust deeply into the snow, and which one knows will not slip or break. And in general we have not found two sticks to be of much service in the high Alps, though for lower excursions in Switzerland and in the Black Forest and everywhere in Norway we prefer them. The novice, however, should, we think, _begin_ with a simple staff of good ash or other strong wood, without any disc at the end. He is sure to require to use his stick to some extent (indeed, we shall advise him lower down to do so), and he would probably only break light double sticks. He should get into the habit of holding his stick in either hand, and should begin to practise with two as soon as he thinks he is far enough advanced to do so. In choosing his stick he will select one about as long as from the ground to the top of his shoulder. It should be furnished with a metal ferrule and a spike at the lower end, and a _broad_ leather loop at the top for the hand.

The double bamboo sticks should also be about as long as from the ground to the shoulder. They are best out from the root end of the plant, where it is strongest; the root also serves as a convenient lump for the hand to hold. The discs are best attached by a metal arrangement, as shown in Fig. 12, and not by boring a hole in the cane and passing a piece of leather through it, as is common in Norway. The one method holds for a long time; the other breaks very soon.

FOOTGEAR.

This is a very important part of a ski-runner’s outfit, and too much attention cannot be paid to it. Nevertheless, nothing is commoner in Switzerland than to see the early efforts of beginners enormously handicapped by unsuitable boots. English ladies, particularly, seem to find it difficult to make up their minds to spend the necessary amount of money on a suitable pair, and usually appear in thin, high-heeled shoes covered by “gouties.” But the acme of thoughtlessness was in our experience achieved by a man who went out in patent-leather boots and openwork silk socks! The consequences were, of course, frost-bite, and he narrowly escaped losing a few toes.

A strongly made, waterproof, low-heeled boot is a necessity, and with most modern bindings the sole should be not less than half an inch thick. It should be roomy enough to permit of _at least_ three pairs of extra thick socks being worn, and there should be plenty of room for the toes to “waggle.” With bindings such as Huitfeldt’s it is better not to have the toe cut too square, for a more or less wedge-shaped end fits better into the toe-irons. In order to resist the pressure of the toe-strap it is best to have the leather extra thick in front. The boot should fit fairly tightly round the ankle and instep, for reasonable firmness at this point does not interfere with the circulation, and is of value in preventing sprained ankles and chafed heels. With Ellefsen’s binding, where there are no straps across that part of the foot, this is of special importance. Nothing is gained by wearing a sloppy sort of boot and subsequently imprisoning the foot in tight and narrow straps. The strain of moving the ski has to be borne somewhere, and it is best to distribute it evenly where it is least felt. In order to prevent the heel straps slipping down it is strongly advisable with all the bindings mentioned above (except the Lilienfeld) to have a small strong strap and buckle sewn to the heel of the boots. The buckle should point upwards, and should be fixed quite close. The end of the strap then points downwards, and is useful as a sort of shoehorn for pulling on the binding.

For Switzerland we would advise the addition of a _few_ nails to the sole of the boot. They prevent any slipping about on icy places round the house, and they make all the difference to one’s happiness in climbing on foot over a pass, or the last few yards of some rocky and icy summit. They are not, however, to be recommended in Norway, where nobody wears them. Not but what there is plenty of ice round the hotels and sanatoria there, but in that country custom is everything, and it is better to bear with a bump or two than to offend.

In the Black Forest ski boots are often made of dog or calf skin, with the hair left on _outside_. An inner coating of hair is often added, but this we think is a mistake, as it is difficult to dry after use. The exterior coating of hair is, however, a great protection against cold. It wears out in course of time, and then the thing to do is to follow the classical example of the King of the Jews and buy another pair.

Arctic explorers and others who go to very cold places are unanimous as to the virtues of outside hair, and various devices exist to enable the runner to fix a covering of it over his ordinary boots. These inventions are, however, apt to be too bulky, or to fill up with snow, or to be cut by a nailed boot, and we cannot recommend any we have seen. A very simple plan is, however, to nail a piece of skin (or canvas-covered felt) to the ski in front of the foot, and to pass it between the toe-strap and the boot. It should be wide enough and long enough to cover the toes, but not, of course, so wide as to project and act as a brake. This little dodge helps to keep the toes warm, not only by the extra covering which it affords, but also by distributing the pressure of the toe-strap over a greater surface; it also to some extent prevents snow collecting under the toes and forming an uncomfortable lump there.

Boots should be greased now and again, but in moderation, for excessive greasing is said to cause cold feet. The boots should be warmed (with hot water or otherwise) before the grease is applied. Castor oil is excellent for this purpose.

The best kind of socks to wear are very thick ones made of goat’s hair; but nowadays they are difficult to get. In Norway so-called “Ragge Sokker” are no longer made of pure material, and the modern imitation is harsh and uncomfortable. Thick woollen socks known as “Ladder” are now largely used, and a pair of these over a good ordinary sock are sufficient for most purposes. It is, however, always advisable to take a dry pair in one’s rucksack, for, however waterproof one’s boots may be, a considerable amount of moisture always accumulates inside them. This is due to the condensation of perspiration against the cold outer surface of the boot, and is most dangerous in very cold weather, when the leather freezes and its pores are choked by ice. When this occurs the toe-straps should be loosed and the toes should be kept moving. Frost-bite is very insidious, and is frequently quite unnoticed by the sufferer till he reaches home and it is too late. The consequences may be very serious, and it is impossible to be too much on one’s guard.

From the above it will be seen that there is plenty of room for improvement in the ski-runner’s footgear. We recommend a thick under-sock, a pair of good “Ladder,” a stout boot, fitting well about the ankle, but with plenty of room at the toes, and a piece of skin covering the toes and held in position by the toe strap. But, all the same, we frequently suffer from cold feet, and we wish somebody would invent something better.

OTHER CLOTHES.

Other clothes are of minor importance. Remember that the season and the snow are cold, that the latter melts, that the exercise is at times very violent, and then you are not likely to try wading trousers or an umbrella. The best clothes for ski-runners are, perhaps, knickerbockers and a double-breasted jacket. Choose a material of smooth texture, for woolly stuffs catch the snow, which soon forms into icy lumps, betraying the novice and melting unpleasantly in a warm room. All openings at the neck, sleeves, knees, and ankles must have an arrangement to fit closely to keep out the snow, which is apt to find its way in, especially in the earlier stages of practice. Let the cap, or soft felt hat, be provided with flaps, to protect the ears in a sharp breeze. The so-called St. Moritz cap is excellently adapted to the purpose. Thick woollen gloves, long enough to reach high above the wrist, are indispensable, and a second pair ought to be in the pocket as a change, for wet gloves in a cold wind are the surest road to frost-bite. Puttees are probably the best means to shut the top of the boot and to cover the stockings. Some sort of wind-jacket is necessary in the Norwegian mountains and elsewhere where strong winds prevail. A capital one is in use in Austria. It is made of very thin oil-silk in the form of a sort of smock-frock, with a hood at the back for the head. It weighs almost nothing, and is warmer than any sweater. With this and a pair of trousers of the same material one may laugh at the most biting wind that ever blew, and the dangers of a night out become greatly minimised.

ACCESSORIES.

The RÜCKSACK--Norwegian Rypesæk--came originally from the Tyrol, and is by far the best means of carrying things. It should be made of stout waterproof canvas, and should be provided with broad shoulder-straps. We advise the novice to buy as good a one as he can afford; he will find it useful for other things besides ski-running.

SMOKED GLASSES, or some such device as that recommended below, will generally have to be worn above the tree-line to protect the eyes from snow-blindness. The precise nature of this complaint does not appear to be understood. It appears to be more prevalent in some countries than in others, and is not, we think, entirely a matter of intensity of light. It seems, for example, to be more dangerous in the Norwegian mountains than in Switzerland. Like frost-bite, it is insidious, and the patient frequently is not seriously inconvenienced till after the damage is done. Some people, too, are far more susceptible to it than others. Instead of smoked glass, which is liable to become dimmed by the condensation upon it of moisture, we prefer a simple oblong piece of leather, 6in. long and about 1in. broad, with two oval-shaped holes in it opposite the eyes, say, ½in. long by ⅜in. broad; a slit for the nose to hold it in position, and two pieces of string to bind it round the head.

The WATER-BOTTLE should be of sufficient capacity; one to hold about a litre is convenient. It should be provided with a felt covering and a tight-fitting cork. What to put into it is a matter of choice, though much alcohol is not to be recommended. Personally we have given up compounding drinks of cold tea, sugar, and wine, for the reason that they are so nice that we drink more at a time than we should. Our companions, too, look at us with such longing eyes that it is difficult to resist their dumb appeal. Such a water-bottle is soon empty. Plain sugar and water is not so nice, but is very sustaining, the sugar being very rapidly digested, and a raw egg or two adds to the value of the compound. Dried prunes, acidulated drops, and other sweetmeats will be found very pleasant on a ski tour, even though one never touches them at other times. Louis Stevenson has observed that the hungrier a man is the more he appreciates delicacies, so do not let your luncheon consist entirely of plain beef sandwiches. Remember, too, that it is better to eat little and often than largely and all at once.

SOME SORT OF REPAIRING OUTFIT and a spare ski tip should always be taken with one. There are little light metal tips on the market made to fit over a broken ski which are very useful. The kind that fixes with a screw is best, as the other is apt to come off. If, however, one has the latter, a small screw-nail through it would keep it in place. With one of these tips, and the means of making an improvised binding with a few screw eyes and nails, a washer or two, and some straps, the runner should be able to get home easily enough wherever his ski may break. The reader must use his ingenuity in such matters, remembering always that it is impossible to execute very elaborate repairs with cold fingers.

There are other odds and ends more or less useful on tour, a description of which will be found in any dealer’s list.