Category: Travel Writing

Sketches from the Subject and Neighbour Lands of Venice

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal signs=. This book uses the ~ over occasional letters to represent scribal abbreviations. This is indicated as (for example) p[~r]b.

Chapters

19. Part 19

Trani then will be our introduction to the group of towns with which we are at present concerned. At the present moment, it is undoubtedly the foremost among them; but it is har...

21. Part 21

Another stoops to prose: "Humilis servus Ionathas Hydruntinus archieps. jussit hoc [~o]p fieri per manus Pantaleonis p[~r]b. Anno ab Incarnatione Dn[~i] Nr[~i] Ihu. Xr[~i] MCLXV...

18. Part 18

We are again driven to ask, Which is the dialect of the Romans? What word either of Greek or of Latin can the Emperor have got hold of? At the same time he had got a fair notion...

10. Part 10

He placed his home in a goodly land, on a spot whose first sight is striking at any moment; but special indeed is the good luck of him who for the first time draws near to Spala...

11. Part 11

Eitelberger has well hit off the character of the three chief Dalmatian cities in three pithy epithets. Zara is _bureaukratisch_; Spalato is _bürgerlich_; Ragusa is _alt-aristok...

17. Part 17

All these examples, the palace, the _dogana_, the houses, the remains in the Dominican church, we might almost say the vine-props, look one way. All point to the existence of a...

2. Part 2

The north-eastern corner of Italy is one of those parts of the world which have gone through the most remarkable changes. That it has often changed its political masters is only...

20. Part 20

Among the other members of this group of cities we might have expected to find Brindisi, so famous as a haven of the voyager in Roman days, and no less famous in our own, fill a...

22. Part 22

Nor does the commentator Eustathios say one word as to the change of name. We can only conceive that the line must have been added as a gloss in some copy, printed or manuscript...

4. Part 4

Here at last something of no small value has been lighted on. As a matter of architecture, this church is by far the best thing in Cividale. Indeed, as a matter of architecture...

5. Part 5

But how shall the traveller find his way to Aquileia? Let us confess to a certain degree of pious fraud in our notices of Treviso, Udine, and Gorizia. We have, for the general p...

9. Part 9

The history of the city in the intermediate ages is the usual history of the towns on the Dalmatian coast. They all for a while keep on their formal allegiance to the Eastern Em...

13. Part 13

As Spalato must be looked on as the great object of a Dalmatian voyage, it may also be looked on as its centre. After Spalato the coast scenery changes its character in a marked...

14. Part 14

The formerly cathedral church is the only building in the town of Curzola which suggests any thought that it can be older than 1420. Documentary evidence, we believe, is scanty,...

3. Part 3

In the ecclesiastical department what there is of any value above ground belongs mainly to the friars. The interest of the _duomo_, as a building, lies wholly in its crypt, a gr...

6. Part 6

The great haven of Trieste may almost at pleasure be quoted as either confirming or contradicting the rule that it is not in the great commercial cities of Europe that we are to...

23. Part 23

To go back to earlier times, the museum of Corfu contains an inscription, [Greek: boustrophêdon] inscription, rivalling that of Menekratês in its archaism, attached to a Doric c...

16. Part 16

We have spoken in a former article of the general aspect and the historical position of the city and commonwealth of Ragusa, her hills, her walls, her havens, her union of freed...

8. Part 8

But the church of Parenzo is not merely a basilica; it has all the further accompaniments of an Italian episcopal church. West of the church stands the atrium, with the windows...

7. Part 7

In the night we pass by several islands, but none are of any historic importance. Veglia lies out of our path, or we might muse on the evil deeds of the last independent Count,...

15. Part 15

As we look up from the sea to the mountains, we feel yet more strongly how purely Ragusa was a city of the sea. Venice was an inland power on that Italian land off which she her...

24. Part 24

We wind up our course with one more of the once subject cities of Venice, one where we can hardly say that we are any longer following in Norman footsteps, but whose history sta...

12. Part 12

The chapel of Saint Caius, with its heathenish altar, brings our thoughts back to the long walls below it, the walls which yoked the ancient Salona to the deeper sea. It must no...

1. Part 1

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal signs=. This book uses the ~ over occasional letters to represent scribal abbreviations. This is indicated as (fo...