Part 1

THE SPANISH SERIES

SEVILLE

THE SPANISH SERIES

Edited by ALBERT F. CALVERT

MURILLO SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR THE ESCORIAL CORDOVA SEVILLE THE PRADO

_In Preparation_

GOYA GRANADA AND ALHAMBRA VELAZQUEZ TOLEDO ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN MADRID LEON, BURGOS AND SALAMANCA VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA, ZAMORA, AVILA & ZARAGOZA

SEVILLE

AN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF “THE PEARL OF ANDALUSIA” BY ALBERT F. CALVERT WITH 300 ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMVII

TURNBULL AND SPEARS. PRINTERS, EDINBURGH

PREFACE

There is a charm and compelling fascination about Seville which produces in the traveller visiting the city for the first time a sensation of physical ecstasy. The spell of the Pearl of Andalusia is instant and enduring; I have not met a man or woman proof against its witchery. George Borrow shed tears of rapture as he beheld Seville from the Cristina Promenade, and “listened to the thrush and the nightingale piping forth their melodious songs in the woods, and inhaled the breeze laden with the perfume of its thousand orange gardens.” The Moors left their beloved capital at the height of its prosperity, in the full flower of its beauty; change has not affected its material importance, and time has not staled its infinite variety. A Christian Cathedral now stands on the foundation of the great mosque of Abu Yakub Yusuf; but the Moorish Giralda, the most expressive monument of the Mohammedan occupation, still beckons the distant traveller onwards to the promised land; the Alcazar breathes the spirit of its Oriental masters; and the shimmering Torre del Oro still reflects the light of the setting sun upon the broad bosom of the rose-coloured river.

The history of Seville from the time of its subjugation by Musa is a volume of romance; its pages are illumined by the cold light of flashing steel and stained with the blood of tyrants, traitors, and innocent men; but it forms a chronicle which the reader will follow with absorbing interest. The more exacting student will satisfy his thirst for knowledge in Dr Dozy’s “History of the Mohammedans of Spain,” in Gayangos’ translation of El Makkari’s “History of the Mohammedan Dynasties in Spain,” in Coppee’s “History of the Conquest of Spain,” and Pedro de Madrazo’s “Sevilla”--to refer to only a few of the many learned works that have been published on the subject. Many will continue to be content with the few pages of Notes which appear in the various Spanish Guides; but a certain section, it is hoped, of the English travelling public, will find in this book an album, a handbook, and a history which will supply a long-felt want.

In my attempt to produce a volume which will appeal both to the artist and the tourist, to the archæologist as well as the least imaginative sightseer, I have reproduced a number of illustrations which may incline some persons to accuse me of a superabundant regard for detail. It is true that many pages are devoted to intricacies of decoration which the general reader may find of small interest, but my object in multiplying this detail is to satisfy the requirements of those who would fathom the mystery of Moslem art. When I was first in Granada I inquired for pictures of the minutiæ of many choice examples of design, and, failing to obtain anything of the kind, I had to employ a local artist to make sketches of the detail of the mosaics. That experience determined me, in treating of these Mohammedan cities of Spain, to include those reproductions for which I had searched in vain, and to make my illustrations, as far as possible, the last word on the subject of Arabian architecture and ornament.

For the historical portion of the letterpress I have laid under tribute the authorities already mentioned, and I have also to acknowledge the assistance received in the compilation from Mr E. B. d’Auvergne.

A large number of the photographs included here were supplied by Messrs Rafael Garzon and Senan & Gonzalez of Granada, Hauser & Menet of Madrid, Ernst Wasmuth of Berlin, publisher of Uhde’s “Baudenkmaeler in Spanien und Portugal,” and Eugen Twietmayer of Leipzig, publisher of Junghandel’s “Die Baukunst Spaniens,” and my thanks are due to them for the courteous permission to reproduce their work in this volume.

Some of the illustrations are reproductions of pictures which were at one time in the San Telmo Collection. As that collection has been distributed I have been unable to trace the originals, but as they were so closely identified with Seville I make no apology for including them.

A. F. C.

“ROYSTON,”

SWISS COTTAGE,

N.W.

CONTENTS

PAGE

SEVILLE 1

MOORISH SEVILLE 5

SEVILLE UNDER THE CASTILIAN KINGS 35

THE ALCAZAR 45

THE CATHEDRAL 69

OTHER BUILDINGS OF THE FIFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES 89

BUILDINGS OF THE SEVENTEENTH AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES 101

THE PAINTERS OF SEVILLE 107

THE OLD ROMAN CITY 135

ILLUSTRATIONS

TITLE PLATE

General view of Seville from the Giralda Tower, West side of the City. First view 1

General view of Seville from the Giralda Tower, West side of the City. Second view 2

General view of Seville from the Giralda Tower, East side 3

General view of Seville from the Giralda Tower, Central part of the City 4

General view of Seville from the Giralda Tower, North side 5

Procession of the Conception of the Virgin passing through the Plaza de San Francisco 6

View of Seville 7

View of Seville 8

View of Seville 9

View of Seville 10

View of Seville 11

View of Seville 12

View of Seville 13

View of Seville 14

Bridge over the Guadalquivir 15

Hercules Avenue 16

The Plaza Nueva 17

View of Triana from the Tower of Gold 18

View of Seville from Triana 19

View of Seville from Triana 20

The Tower of Gold from San Telmo 21

A street in Seville 22

The Tower of Gold 23

Church of San Marcos, from the Palace of the Dueñas 24

Church of San Marcos 25

Court of the Hotel de Madrid 26

Hospital, with the Mosaics painted by Murillo 27

Portal of the Convent of Santa Paula 28

Church of Santa Catalina 29

Church of Todos Santos 30

The Provincial Museum, with Murillo’s statue 31

Statue of Murillo 32

General view of the Town Hall 33

The Town Hall, left side 34

The Town Hall, left side, detail of the interior angle 35

Door of the Town Hall 36

The Town Hall, detail of the principal part 37

General view of the Town Hall 38

The Town Hall, detail of the façade 39

The Town Hall, detail of the principal door 40

Window in the Town Hall 41

Principal facade of the Tobacco Factory 42

The Tobacco Factory 43

Cigar makers, Seville 44

The “Sevillanas” Dance 45

Sevillian Costumes--A Courtyard 46

General view of the Exchange 47

Court in the Exchange 48

The Aceite Postern and ancient ramparts 49

The Roman walls near the gate of the Macarena 50

The Roman Amphitheatre of Italica 51

General view of the Palace of San Telmo from the River 52

Principal Portal of the San Telmo Palace 53

Interior of the Hall of Columns in the San Telmo Palace 54

Interior view of the Duke of Montpensier’s study in San Telmo 55

Various objects found in the sepulchres at San Telmo. (In the Palace of San Telmo) 56

Palms in the Gardens of San Telmo 57

The sepulchres of the victims of Don Juan Tenorio in the Gardens of San Telmo 58

The Roman Sepulchres in the Gardens of San Telmo 59

View in the Gardens of San Telmo 60

The Aviary in the Gardens of San Telmo 61

The River in the Gardens of San Telmo 62

The Cocoa Tree and east side of San Telmo 63

The Zapote, a tree in the Gardens of San Telmo 64

The Island and River in the Gardens of San Telmo 65

The Yucca, a rare tree in the Gardens of San Telmo 66

General view of the Hospital de la Sangre 67

Church of the Sagrario, north side 68

Principal façade of the Hospital de la Sangre 69

Porch of the Church of the Hospital de la Sangre 70

Bas-relief, Hospital de la Sangre, the work of Torregiano 71

General view of the exterior of the Cathedral 72

The Giralda, from the Patio de los Naranjos 73

The top of the Giralda 74

The Dancing Choir-boys, Seville Cathedral 75

Dancing-boys, Seville Cathedral 76

The Gate of the Archbishop 77

Plaza de San Francisco, with the Giralda and Cathedral 78

Plaza del Triunfo, the Cathedral, and the Exchange, from the Gate of the Lion 79

The Fête 80

Gate of San Miguel in the Cathedral 81

Gate of the Cathedral called de las Campanillas 82

Gate of the Baptist in the Cathedral 83

The Gate of the Lizard in the Cathedral 84

General view of the Cathedral from the Tribune of the principal door 85

Principal Sacristy in the Cathedral 86

Principal Entrance to the Cathedral 87

Interior view of the Principal Sacristy in the Cathedral 88

The Gamba Chapel 89

The Cathedral, the Gamba Chapel, and entrance to that of the Antigua 90

Chapels of the Conception and the Annunciation in the Cathedral 91

The Cathedral. The Chapel of the Conception 92

The Cathedral. Detail of the High Altar 93

The Cathedral. Retablo, or altar-piece of the High Altar 94

Iron railings of the lateral part of the High Altar 95

The Cathedral. Wrought-iron screen in the Choir 96

The Cathedral. Wrought-iron screen of the High Altar 97

St Christopher carrying the Child Jesus, by Mateo Perez Alesio, in the Cathedral 98

San Fernando Square 99

Gardens of the Alcazar 100

General view of the Gardens of the Alcazar 101

View of the Gardens of the Alcazar 102

General view of the Gardens of the Alcazar 103

The Gardens of the Alcazar. Lake and Gallery of Don Pedro I., the Cruel 104

The Gardens of the Alcazar. View of the Gallery of Don Pedro I., the Cruel 105

The Hothouses in the Gardens of the Alcazar 106

Calle de las Vedras in the Gardens of the Alcazar 107

The Gardens of the Alcazar. Parterre of Doña Maria de Padilla 108

The Alcazar. Baths of Doña Maria de Padilla 109

Magnificent altar in faience, painted in the fifteenth century. (In the Oratory of the Catholic Sovereigns in the Alcazar.) 110

Town Hall of Seville. Details of doors and balconies 111

Town Hall of Seville. Details 112

Parish Church of San Marcos 113

Various Towers of Seville 114

Details of the Mosaic commonly called El Grande 115

Sculpture and details of ancient churches 116

Architectural parts, bas-reliefs, and ceramic objects 117

Façade of the Consistorial houses 118

Entrance to the Alcazar, Seville 119

Principal Façade of the Alcazar 120

Gate of the principal entrance, Alcazar 121

Interior of the Hall of Ambassadors, Alcazar 122

Hall of Ambassadors, Alcazar 123

Interior of the Hall of Ambassadors, Alcazar 124

Interior of the Hall of Ambassadors, Alcazar 125

Hall of Ambassadors, Alcazar 126

Hall of Ambassadors, Alcazar 127

Hall of Ambassadors. Alcazar 128

Upper part of the Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 129

Court of the Dolls from the Room of the Prince, Alcazar 130

Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 131

Angle in the Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 132

Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 133

Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 134

Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 135

Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 136

Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 137

Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 138

Gallery on the second storey of the Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 139

Upper part of the Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 140

Upper part of the Court of the Dolls, Alcazar 141

Entrance to the Dormitory of the Moorish Kings, Alcazar 142

Dormitory of the Moorish Kings, Alcazar 143

Front of the sleeping-saloon of the Moorish Kings, Alcazar 144

Sleeping-saloon of the Moorish Kings, Alcazar 145

Intercolumniation, where Don Fadrique was assassinated, Alcazar 146

Sultana’s Quarters, Alcazar 146

Room in which King St Ferdinand died, Alcazar 147

Interior of the Hall of St Ferdinand, Alcazar 148

Front of the Hall of St Ferdinand, Alcazar 149

Gate of the Hall of St Ferdinand, Alcazar 150

Gallery of the Hall of St Ferdinand, Alcazar 151

Throne of Justice, Alcazar 152

Court of the Hundred Virgins, Alcazar 153

Court of the Virgins, Alcazar 154

General view of the Court of the Hundred Virgins, Alcazar 155

Court of the Virgins, Alcazar 156

Front of the Dormitory of the Moorish Kings and the Court of the Virgins, Alcazar 157

Gallery in the Court of the Virgins, Alcazar 158

The Court of the Virgins, Capital of the door of the Hall of Ambassadors, Alcazar 159

The Alcazar. Court of the Virgins. Capital of the gate of the Hall of Charles V. 160

Palace of the Dueñas, Door of the Chapel 161

Palace of the Dukes of Alcalá, commonly called Casa de Pilatos 162

The Court in the House of Pilate 163

Court of the House of Pilate 164

Gallery in the Court of the House of Pilate 165

House of Pilate 166

Gallery in the Court of the House of Pilate 167

Angle and statue in the House of Pilate 168

House of Pilate. Entrance to the ante-room of the Chapel 169

The staircase in the House of Pilate, by Barrera 170

House of Pilate. Entrance door of the Oratory 171

House of Pilate. Way out to the flat roofs in the High Gallery 172

Staircase in the House of Pilate 173

House of Pilate. Doors of the officers in the High Gallery 174

House of Pilate. Window of the Prætor’s Hall leading to the Garden 175

House of Pilate. Barred window in the Prætor’s Garden 176

House of Pilate. Bolt on the Prætor’s Gate 177

House of Pilate. Window in the Ante-room of the Chapel 178

House of Pilate. Section of the ceiling in the Prætor’s Hall 179

Palace of the Dueñas in Seville 180

House of Pilate. Mosaics in the Hall of the Fountain 181

Palace of the Dueñas in Seville. Glazed tiles in the socles of the Chapel and arches 182

Mosaic of the Peristyle in the Palace 183

House of Pilate. Mosaic in the Hall of the Fountain 184

Mosaic in the Court of the House of Pilate 185

Mosaic in the Court of the House of Pilate 186

Mosaic in the Court of the House of Pilate 187

House of Pilate. Mosaic in the Chapel 188

Bartolomé Esteban Murillo. Born in Seville, 1617 189

Altar-screen of the La Gamba, by Luis de Vargas. Seville Cathedral 190

“Descent from the Cross,” by Pedro Campaña, Seville Cathedral 191

“St Anthony of Padua visited by the Infant Saviour while kneeling at his prayers,” by Murillo. Seville Cathedral 192

“Our Lord baptized by St John Baptist,” by Murillo. Seville Cathedral 193

“The Guardian Angel,” by Murillo. Seville Cathedral 194

“St Leander,” by Murillo. Seville Cathedral 195

“St Isidore,” by Murillo. Seville Cathedral 196

“St Ferdinand, crowned and robed,” by Murillo. Seville Cathedral 197

“Madre Francisca Dorotea Villalda,” by Murillo. Seville Cathedral 198

“St Anthony with the Infant Saviour,” by Murillo. Seville Museum 199

“Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception,” by Murillo. Seville Museum 200

“Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception,” by Murillo. Seville Museum 201

“Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception,” by Murillo. Seville Museum 202

“Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception,” by Murillo. Seville Museum 203

“St Justa and St Rufina, Patron Saints of Seville, holding between them the Giralda Tower,” by Murillo. Seville Museum 204

“St Bonaventure and St Leander,” by Murillo. Seville Museum 205