CHAPTER III.

MEMORABLE SERVICES.

During my chaplaincy there were several memorable services in the English Embassy Church. The first of these was the funeral of the late Earl of Lytton, Her Majesty’s Ambassador of France.

Lord Lytton died in November, 1891, at the Embassy. His death was unexpected and sudden. Upon hearing the sad news I called at the Embassy and saw Lady Lytton, who was naturally very much affected. I remember that she took me by the hand and led me into the chamber of death, and we both knelt down, and I prayed with her. The Earl was very little changed by death, and lay as if asleep. Each morning afterwards, until the funeral, I went to the Embassy and conducted family prayers. The relatives had gathered, and I had quite a large number. Several of the Balfour family were present, amongst whom was Lady Betty Balfour, the eldest daughter of Lady Lytton, who has since, as is well known, edited her father’s classic letters.

The funeral took place on Saturday, November 28th, and was most imposing. The late Earl was very popular with the French, so much so that it had been decided that the funeral must be public, and of the “class” usually accorded to a Marshal of France. The scene in the church was very remarkable. The Embassy had taken the body of the Church for the Diplomatic Corps and the high officials of state of the French Republic. One gallery was reserved for the special and intimate friends of Lady Lytton, and the other gallery was the only space available for members of the English Colony generally. The body of the Church presented a striking appearance. All the Foreign Ambassadors and their suites were present in full diplomatic dress, and the Military and Naval Attachés in their brilliant uniforms. I remember that Colonel the Hon. R. Talbot (as he was then) was especially remarked in his English scarlet dress. The French Government, the Political, Naval, Military, and Civil Administrations were all represented, and many of the most distinguished men in art, science, and literature had come to pay the last tribute to the deceased Ambassador.

The outer coffin was quite plain, in accordance with Lady Lytton’s desire, and bore the inscription “Edward Robert, First Earl of Lytton, born November 8th, 1831, died November 24th, 1891.”

The British Chamber of Commerce and the Hon. Whitelaw Reid had sent flowers (evidently not knowing of the order “No flowers”), but the only emblem in the Church was a simple wreath of laurel, which rested on the coffin. The Church was draped from ceiling to floor in black and silver, and the effect was very striking.

I have a record by me of some of those who were present, and it is an interesting list of names. There was the Prince of Monaco, M. Ribot (with the staff of the French Foreign Office), General Brugère, M. Fallières (then President of the Senate), MM. Jules Ferry, Léon Fay, Goblet, and Flourens. Then I saw Barons Alphonse Gustave and Edmund de Rothschild, Comte Armaud, Prince de Sagan, the Marquis de Breteuil, Alexandre Dumas, the Marquis de Jaucourt, and Comte de Portales. These are but a few of the well-known French names. In the gallery amongst many others were the Baroness Morenheim (wife of the Russian Ambassador at that time), the Countess Hoyos, Madame and Mlle. de Freycinet. I heard that amongst others a telegram of sympathy was received from Madame Sarah Bernhardt, who was in America. The pall bearers were the Count von Munster (the German Ambassador), Mr. Egerton, C.B. (Minister Plenipotentiary at the British Embassy), Sir E. Blount (representing the English Colony). M. Ribot (French Minister of Foreign Affairs), and MM. Jules Claretie and Camile Doucet, representing literature and science.

I shall never forget the scene in the streets. It had been arranged that the body of the late Earl should be taken from the Church in Rue d’Aguesseau to the Gare St. Lazare, to be conveyed to England. All the traffic was stopped between the Church and the railway station, and the streets were lined with military and police, and many thousands of spectators. It was said that 3,000 soldiers were employed, and that the procession took thirty minutes to pass any given spot. The demeanour of the immense crowd in the streets was most respectful and sympathetic, and all heads were bared as the coffin passed.

When we arrived at the railway, the hearse drew up at the entrance gate, and then followed a most impressive demonstration. I, with the other clergy and the sons of the deceased Ambassador, stood in front of the hearse; grouped round were the Ambassadors and State Officials, and now the entire body of the French troops filed past in review order and saluted the bier. I noticed that as the regimental flags were borne past, the Military Attachés saluted them and the civilians uncovered. The interment took place at Knebworth. We had a memorial service in Paris, and I made reference in the sermon to the distinguished services of the late Ambassador, and by request of Lady Lytton the sermon was published.

It was said at the time that the Earl of Lytton was the first Ambassador who had died at his post in Paris, but this is, I believe, not quite correct, as James Beaton, Archbishop of Glasgow, was Ambassador for Queen Mary and King James I. at the French Court, and he died in Paris in 1603. Curiously he was known as Jacques de Bethune de Balfour—the name Balfour being thus common to both families.

But a few weeks afterwards, and a second impressive and public service for the burial of the dead was held in the Embassy Chapel, this time as a memorial to the Duke of Clarence and Avondale. His early death had evoked a world-wide sympathy, and Her Majesty’s Chargé d’Affaires in Paris, Mr., now Sir E. H. Egerton, requested a public service. Upon this occasion the gorgeous diplomatic and military uniforms were not worn, as etiquette only prescribes the wearing of uniform at a funeral service in the case of a reigning sovereign, or of an Envoy Plenipotentiary. This fact, however, did but add to the solemnity of the scene. As was the case at the funeral service for the Earl of Lytton, the body of the Church was reserved for the French officials and the Corps Diplomatique, while the unreserved part was filled with members of the British Colony, all the ladies being dressed in mourning. The Church chancel and pulpit was draped with black and silver hangings, the porch outside being similarly decorated, the Royal arms being emblazoned in the centre. There was a large gathering of distinguished Frenchmen on this occasion: President Carnot was represented by Colonel Dalstein; the Prime Minister, M. de Freycinet, by Colonel Pamard; the Minister of Marine by Captain Thomas, of the Navy; and General Saussier, Governor of Paris, by Colonel Courbebaisse. M. Ribot, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, was present, and among other Frenchmen of prominence were M. d’Ormesson, Master of the Ceremonies; M. de Mahy, Vice-President of the Chamber of Deputies; M. Poubelle, Prefect of the Seine; the Duc de Luynes, and the Duc de Mouchy. Among the Diplomatic Corps I noticed Count Hoyos, the Austrian Ambassador; Colonel de Fréedéricksz, Military Attaché of the Russian Embassy; M. de Schön, of the German Embassy; M. Delyanni, the Greek Minister; Missak-Effendi, who replaced his chief, Essad Pasha, kept at home by influenza; the Baron de Almeda; M. Jusserand; Mr. Vignaud, of the United States Legation; General Meredith Read, and others. The members of the British Embassy were present “au grand complet,” headed by Mr. E. Egerton, Chargé d’Affaires, and Mr. Austin Lee.

I conducted the service, assisted by my valued colleague Rev. J. C. Pyper and two other clergymen, and preached from the text “Weep with them that weep.” Before closing I took occasion to thank those of other Nations for their kind expression of sympathy on the sad event. The guests were received at the Church door by Sir E. H. Egerton and Lt.-Col. the Hon. Reginald Talbot, the British Military Attaché, as we had no Ambassador yet appointed to succeed the Earl of Lytton. Real sympathy was very manifest through the whole service.

The following year (1893) there died in Paris a remarkable man, Rev. Whitaker McCall, the founder of the McCall Mission among the French people, whom it was my privilege to know during the last four years of his life. For twenty-three years this devoted man had worked in the lowest parts of Paris with remarkable success; so much so that in 1892 he was accorded the Cross of the Legion d’Honneur by the President of the French Republic as a mark of appreciation of the work he had done. He was also given the medal of the “Société libre d’Instruction et d’Education populaires,” and that of the “Société Nationale d’encouragement au Bien.” I believe he was the only Englishman who has thus been honoured, and this is the more remarkable as his work was purely and altogether religious. The Salles des Conferences scattered through Paris and the Provinces are a lasting tribute to his memory, and remain centres in which the work is still carried on. The funeral was held in the Church of the Oratoire in the Rue de Rivoli. A vast crowd filled the large building in every part. This church is remarkable from the fact that it was given to the French Protestants by Napoleon the Great, and at one time—before the Church in the Rue d’Aguesseau was bought—was used for English Church services on Sunday evenings. My friend Dr. Pigou, the Dean of Bristol, tells me that he frequently took services there when he was connected with the old Rue Marbœuf Church.

I was asked to take part in the funeral service of Mr. McCall, as representing the English Colony. It was a scene not easily forgotten. The immense crowd, the hymns sung in French, and the addresses—of which I gave one, in both French and English—were listened to with wrapt attention. It was the last and a loving tribute to one who has probably done more than any other to place the Word of God in the hands of the French people.

The following year was marked by public services of a different kind. It was the Diamond Jubilee of our late Queen, of glorious memory, and the British Colony in Paris—and there is none more loyal to the throne—determined to mark it in a special manner. Public meetings were held in the Hotel Continental, kindly lent for the purpose, and it was decided to raise a fund which, after deducting the expenses connected with the fête, should be devoted to the various British charities of Paris without distinction of creed. It was also decided to give a fête to the children of the Colony and a dinner to the working classes. I consulted with Sir E. Monson, our Ambassador, who arranged with me that there should be services held in the Embassy Church corresponding with the services in London on Sunday, June 20th. An official service was also arranged for the afternoon of the same day to which the Diplomatic Corps were to be invited. The following is a description of the services:—

“At the Embassy Church, in the Rue d’Aguesseau, there were two thanksgiving services, one at eleven a.m., at the close of which the Rev. Dr. Noyes, who wore the scarlet cassock of a Doctor of Divinity, delivered a touching and eloquent address. He stirred a deep chord in the heart of those who heard him by reminding them that, though in a foreign land for the time being, they were in communion of thought with millions of their countrymen at home, and many more millions of their fellow subjects in distant regions, even in the most remote corners of the earth, in offering their thanksgivings for the blessings the Queen’s reign had conferred on England and the British people.

“The official thanksgiving service also took place at the Rue d’Aguesseau, at three o’clock in the afternoon. The admission to the church was by tickets, as a large portion of the nave had to be reserved for the French officials and the members of the Corps Diplomatique; but the English community was also present in large numbers, and the church was densely crowded. The Corps Diplomatique, with the exception of the United States Ambassador, whom etiquette compels to wear evening dress on State occasions, were all in full dress. Our Embassy received the various officials and Diplomatists, and showed them to their places. There were present, representing England, Sir Edmund and Lady Monson (the late), Mr. Gosselin, Colonel Dawson, Mr. Clarke Thornhill, Sir Brook Boothby, Mr. Marling, Mr. Barclay, Sir Berkeley Sheffield, the British Consul General and Vice Consul, Messrs. Percy Inglis, and Mr. Falconer Atlee. President Faure was represented by the captain of the frigate Serpette, and the French Government by M. Hanotaux and M. Mollard. The German Ambassador and Countess Marie de Münster, the Russian Ambassador and some of his Attachés two of whom wore the splendid uniform of the Chevaliers Gardes; the Austrian Ambassador, in whose suite was a Hungarian magnate in a splendid national dress, the Italian Ambassador, one of whose Attachés was attired in the picturesque garb of a Colonel of Bersaglieri; the Persian Ambassador, Munir Bey, and his Staff, decked in gorgeous uniforms, contrasting strangely with the unpretending fez, which, of course, they did not remove; the Chinese Ambassador and a couple of quaintly dressed Mandarins, filled the nave of the unpretending little church with a glittering array of gold lace such as I think was never before congregated within its walls. The rest of the nave and the galleries were filled by the ticket-holders, and they were all obviously English, ladies largely predominating. The service was shorter than that in the morning, but there was no sermon, and at the close the choir sang the first and last verses of the National Anthem, in which the English part of the congregation joined. The Ambassador and his Staff then took up places at the entrance of the nave, and shook hands with the diplomatists and officials as they passed out.”

There were some very striking testimonies in the French papers to the Greatness of the Queen, e.g., in the “Gaulois,” M. Imbert de St. Amand wrote:—

“Queen Victoria has not only been a model Sovereign, she has also been the model of all wives, of all widows, of all mothers. She might be described in a very few words—virtue on the Throne. As a rule, long reigns generally end in sadness. Charlemagne wept at the sight of the Northmen’s galleys scouring the coasts. Charles V., weary and disheartened, sought the living death of the cloister, and was present at his own funeral service. Louis XIV. remarked to Marshal Villars after his last defeat, ‘We cannot at our time of life hope for good luck.’ None of these precedents holds good in the case of her Britannic Majesty. Her reign, after sixty years, seems to defy the efforts of time. There are no signs of decay, but of a permanent renewal of life. The popularity of the Queen grows with every year added to her reign, and the joy and enthusiasm with which her three hundred and fifty millions of subjects acclaim it are the crowning and most touching feature of her Diamond Jubilee. The Queen fully merits this apotheosis, since she is the noblest incarnation of all the leading qualities of the Anglo-Saxon race—love of her home, firmness of purpose, energy in effort, unswerving devotion to duty. England sees herself mirrored in her Sovereign, and takes just pride in the presentment. She and her people are one.… Every class of French society, without any distinction of party and origin, unites in respectful greeting of the Sovereign who stands out as the grandest womanly figure of her century—the heroine of duty, whom not only her children, but her whole people venerate as the most intelligent, the most devoted, the best of mothers. Like our neighbours, we shall all say, ‘God Save the Queen,’ and with all our hearts take part in the Jubilee, which is at once the triumph of the woman and the triumph of the Queen.”

And again M. Comely in the “Matin”:—

“It is impossible for a civilized being to refrain from a feeling of deep admiration at this splendid result of the past sixty years. But it is difficult for a Frenchman not to feel some bitterness when he compares the situation of England with that of his own country. Queen Victoria has known one King of the French, one Emperor of the French, and six Presidents of the French Republic. From her steady, unchanging, Royal observatory, she has beheld the rise and fall of eight Sovereigns! This stability of England, compared with the instability of France, is sufficient in itself to account for the reason why France has been growing less while England has been growing greater; the one has been shrinking, the other has been expanding.”

The fêtes were a great success, and a grand testimony—if it were needed—to the loyalty of Britishers living in France. About fourteen hundred applied for tickets. St. Cloud, a favourite suburb of Paris on the Seine, and the Restaurant du Parc—the scene of many British fêtes—were decided upon. Four of the “Hirondelles” boats were chartered to convey the party down the river. As each boat reached the jetty, the band of the Pavilion Bleu, a well-known restaurant, struck up the National Anthem. After dessert the following telegram was read, which had been sent by Sir E. Blount, then the “doyen” of the Colony, to Her Majesty Queen Victoria: “We your Majesty’s most loyal and loving subjects, venture to offer our heartfelt congratulations on this auspicious day, and pray for the continuance to your Majesty of those blessings which have shed such a lustre on your Majesty’s glorious reign.” The following reply was received: “The Queen desires me to thank you and Her British subjects in Paris for your kind message and congratulations. Bigge.”

Mr. A. Percy Inglis, the highly-respected Consul-General in Paris, made a patriotic speech. His proposal of a toast to the Queen was received with the utmost enthusiasm. I also made a speech on the occasion, and took the opportunity of explaining the history of the “Union Jack,” at which the audience seemed greatly pleased. Paris joined heartily in the celebrations, and the Rue de la Paix was a mass of flags, and parts of the City were illuminated. The English business houses all displayed flags in profusion.

In January, 1900, there was a remarkable gathering in the Embassy Church at the funeral of an English governess. It was the time of the Boer War, and it was said that the well-known firm of “Creusot” had supplied the guns which had done such execution against us in South Africa. This lady had been a governess in the family at the head of the firm, and was greatly respected. The firm paid all the expenses of the funeral, and attended in such large numbers that the body of the church was filled with men. It was a remarkable coincidence that at such a time the English Church in Paris should be filled with those who had, it was understood, supplied the munitions of war used against us, to pay a tribute of respect to a British subject, the service being conducted by an English clergyman.

In 1901 came that sad event which plunged the Nation into mourning—the death of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. The sympathy of the French people with us in our sorrow was very marked. I consulted with Sir Edmund Monson, our Ambassador, who desired that special and official services should be held in the Embassy Church at the time of the funeral in England. The following account of what was done in Paris appeared in the “Galignani Messenger” of that date:—

“Rarely, if ever before, has the little church in the Rue d’Aguesseau held a more august assembly than it did yesterday morning, and the service, in its grandeur and simplicity, was in every way suited to the solemn occasion. It consisted of a few prayers; Psalms xc. and cxxx.; the favourite hymns of the late Queen: ‘Hark, hark my soul!’ ‘Lead, kindly light,’ and an anthem, ‘All ye who weep,’ with Gounod’s music. No address was given, but the two final prayers—one in memory of the late Queen, the other invoking the Almighty’s blessing on the new King—were specially written for the occasion, and went home to the hearts of all present. The Rev. Dr. Noyes conducted the service, assisted by several other clergymen resident in Paris, and the choir, consisting of about fifty voices, was heard to great advantage.

“The church was sumptuously decorated in black drapery and silver, but, possibly, the effect would have been more impressive if the large monograms V.I.R., in bright yellow, and the Royal Arms in colours, had not figured so prominently.

“Lady Monson was early in attendance, and Sir Michael Herbert, assisted by Mr. Austin Lee, Commercial Attaché, and Mr. Colville Barclay received the numerous and influential congregation.

“Mme. Loubet, accompanied by Mmes. Dubois and Combarieu, was amongst the early arrivals, Colonel Nicholas in attendance. The President was represented by M. Combarieu.

“Mme. Loubet, upon her arrival, was conducted to a seat near the choir, by the side of Lady Monson.

“One side of the church was reserved to the Diplomatic corps, every member of which was present, save, of course, the Papal Nuncio, and the Russian Ambassador, who was unwell, and was represented by his First Secretary. On the other, all the members of the present Cabinet, who without exception were present in person, including M. Waldeck-Rousseau, President of the Council, MM. Dupuy, Delcassé, Pierre Baudin, General André, etc., also M. Paul Deschanel, President of the Chamber of Deputies; M. Fallières, President of the Senate; the Military Governor of Paris, the Prefect of the Seine, and a great number of Deputies, MM. Hanotaux, Le Myre de Viliers, R. Bompard, etc.

“The lower gallery at the back of the church was reserved for representatives of Royalty: Prince Roland Bonaparte, Princesse Mathilde, Princesse Marie of Mecklenburg, and the Baron Machiba, representing the Countess d’Eu.

“Amongst other notabilities present were: Baronne Faverot de Kebrech (Née Seymour), Marquis de Lau, Marquise de Peralt, Comte de Vettre, Comte de Ganay, Baron Edouard de Rothschild, Baronne Decases Stackelberg, Comte and Comtesse Jean de Castellane, Vicomte Léon de Janze, Mr. John K. Gowdy (American Consul), MM. Crozier (Chef du Protocol) and Mollard, Marquis d’Harcourt, MM. Picard and F. Arago, Comte Greffulhe, Comte de Clermont-Tonnerre, and M. and Mme. Benjamin Constant.

“The English Colony was represented by: Sir Edward and Lady Sassoon, Colonel Mapleson, Mr. Henry Blount, Mr. (now Sir) T. Barclay (President of the Chamber of Commerce), Mr. T. Hounsfield (Vice-President), Messrs. Inglis (Consul,) J. (now Sir John) Pilter, W. C. Robertson, P. Lammin and Mrs. Lammin, Messrs. Spearman, Ablett, and C. E. Lord, Captain Churchward, and Messrs. Brigstocke and A. Coleman.

“At the close the organ pealed forth the well-known Dead March in ‘Saul,’ the effect of which was marred by the departing congregation, who, after the French fashion, shook hands with Sir Michael Herbert and the other attachés to the Embassy, who stood in a row near the porch.

“The afternoon service was of an equally simple character, in fact it was like the one held in the morning. But instead of officials clad in their showy uniforms, it was composed of the English and American Colonies—those who felt that they had lost one who was very dear to them. The service seemed far more solemn than that of the morning, and handkerchiefs and tears were by no means scarce. The Rev. Dr. Noyes again conducted the service, and as the deep-toned sounds of the organ rolled out the Dead March, the faces of many of those present showed that, as the laureate has so beautifully expressed it, ‘She is dead; and the World is widowed.’”

The same evening I received the following letter from the Hon. Michael Herbert (now, alas, no more):—

“British Embassy, “Saturday Evening.

“Dear Dr. Noyes,—

“Before the end of this memorable day I must write you a line to express my appreciation and that of the Embassy of the manner in which the two services in the Rue d’Aguesseau Church were conducted to-day. The music was excellent, and both services seemed to me worthy of this sad and solemn occasion.

“I fear many people were unable to find places at the afternoon services, but I trust they will be able to secure room to-morrow.

“Yours very sincerely,

“M. H. HERBERT.”

The late Hon. M. Herbert was first Secretary of the Embassy, highly respected, and one who took a keen interest in all that concerned the British Colony. The services were continued on the following day. Sir Edmund Monson, our Ambassador in Paris, was not present at the services, owing to the fact that he had been summoned to London to attend the funeral service. Services were also held in the Roman Catholic Church for English members of that Communion, in the Russian Church, and in several other places of worship. Indeed, an atmosphere of sadness seemed to rest over the whole city. All the English houses of business were closed, many exhibiting draped flags. Groups of people would stand under these flags conversing in an undertone, and many were the kind remarks by the passing crowds. I heard one say, “She was a good mother to all her people.” I may mention that I asked the Rev. P. Beaton and Rev. J. Milne, Presbyterian clergy in Paris, to take part in the official service, and each read a lesson.

In 1902, the English Colony in Paris were looking forward with the greatest interest to the all-important event fixed for the 26th of June, the Coronation of His Majesty King Edward VII. It had been decided that a service should be held and a fête given to all the British working classes and poor resident in Paris, and extensive preparations were made. Then on June 24th came the startling news that the King was ill, and the Coronation ceremony had been postponed. The first intimation we had was a telegram which was posted at the Bourse. The excitement was intense, and the sorrow and anxiety in the British Colony seemed intensified from the fact that we were residents abroad and far from the centre of interest—the Palace where the King lay. As soon as I heard of the telegram I called at the Embassy, and found that the news was only too true, and that all had been postponed. As is well known, instead of the Coronation Service in Westminster Abbey, an Intercession Service was held in St. Paul’s Cathedral. We decided that a corresponding service should be held in Paris, and I shall not soon forget the solemnity of that hour. The church was well filled, all the staff of the British Embassy being present. We all sang the National Anthem kneeling, and never, I believe, was prayer more earnest that God would spare our beloved King. During those anxious days every item of news was eagerly sought, and great was the relief when we heard that the operation by Sir Frederick Treves had been successful, and that our prayers had been answered in the safety and then recovery of His Majesty. There was at that time no “Entente Cordiale,” but the sympathy and anxiety of the French people was very manifest. News was published hour by hour, and in the evenings, on the Boulevards, the latest bulletins were given in immense letters, shown by electric light from the office of the “Echo de Paris.” The month of August—when happily the Coronation could take place—is the holiday month in Paris, and the city is supposed to be empty. As a matter of fact almost the whole of the British Colony is then away. In view of this it was decided to postpone the fêtes until the close of this memorable year. We held, however, special services in the church, when I took occasion to comment upon the Coronation Service, and to explain parts of this solemn religious ceremony. The fêtes came off in December, and were a great success.

In 1903 we had a visit of Members of the British Parliament to Paris. As they were staying over a Sunday, and many ladies—wives and daughters of Members—were in the party, I wrote to the Secretary proposing that a special service should be held. Sir E. Monson very kindly fell in with the suggestion, and arranged for the service at three p.m., with a reception at the Embassy, a few yards away, to follow the service. About three hundred persons were present. I preached from the text: “Render therefore unto Cæsar the things which are Cæsar’s, and unto God the things which are God’s.” I never had a more attentive congregation. Many of the Members at the subsequent reception were kind enough to express to me their appreciation of the service.

Later we had an official visit from the London County Council, which left very pleasant memories; and in 1906 the City Fathers came over, headed by Sir Walter Vaughan-Morgan, for whom also I held a special service. I have given some details of this visit in another chapter.