Self-instructor in the art of hair work, dressing hair, making curls, switches, braids, and hair jewelry of every description.

Part 6

Chapter 64,585 wordsPublic domain

Braid this over a round stick, the size you want the braid for use, varying the number of strands according to the size of the stick; then slip the braid from the stick on to the mold you wish to use, tying it so it will fit the mold exactly, and then boil in water five minutes, and take it out and put it in an oven as hot as it will bear without burning, until it is quite dry. Then it is ready for use.

EMPRESS TIGHT BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--sixty being the usual number--fifteen hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, lift No. 3 over No. 2, No. 1 over No. 2, No. 3 over No. 4, and No. 3 over No. 2; braid round table to the left till you get to A, then go to C, take the outside row of figures, and braid round to the right; lift Nos. 3 and 4 over Nos. 1 and 2, and so on round to A, and repeat with the inside row of figures, and then repeat again with the outside row; then you are through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first. Commence at C every other time, for you only braid the first change of figures once, and the last change three times.

OPEN CHECK BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being the usual number--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Have one-half the strands white and one-half black, and place on table alternately, four white and four black. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, lift No. 2 over No. 3, No. 2 over No. 1, No. 2 over No. 3, Nos. 2 and 3 over No. 4, and No. 2 over No. 1. Then go to B and change the same way, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as you did at A, and so on round the table; then you will be through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first.

SCOTCH PLAID BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being the usual number--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Have one-third the strands white hair, one-third black, and one-third red, and place on table alternately, four white, four black, and four red. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, lift No. 2 over No. 3, No. 2 over No. 1, No. 2 over No. 3, Nos. 2 and 3 over No. 4, and No. 2 over No. 1. Then go to B and change the same way, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as you did at A, and so on round the table; then you will be through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first.

HALF OPEN BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--sixty being the usual number--fifteen hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, lift No. 3 over No. 2, No. 3 over No. 4, No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 3 over No. 2; braid half way round the table, and then braid the last half by lifting No. 3 over No. 2, No. 3 over No. 4, No. 1 over No. 2, No. 3 over No. 2, No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 3 over No. 4, and so on round to A; then go to C and repeat the same. Then you are through the braid, ready to commence as at first.

OPEN STRIPED BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being the usual number--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have one-half the strands white hair, and one-half black, and place alternately one strand of white, and one strand of black; lift No. 2 over No. 3, No. 2 over No. 1, No. 2 over No. 3, Nos. 2 and 3 over No. 4, and No. 2 over No. 1. Then go to B and change the same way, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as at A, and so on round table; then you will be through the braid, ready to commence as at first.

CHINCHILLA OPEN BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being the usual number--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have one-half of the strands white hair, and one-half black, and place alternately two strands of white and two of black; lift No. 2 over No. 3, No. 2 over No. 1, No. 2 over No. 3, Nos. 2 and 3 over No. 4, and No. 2 over No. 1; then go to B and change the same way, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as you did at A, and so on round table. Then you will be through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first.

FANCY LACE BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being the usual number--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have one-half the strands white hair, and one-half black, and place alternately two strands of white, and two strands of black; lift No. 3 over No. 2, No. 3 over No. 4, No. 1 over No. 2, No. 3 over No. 2, No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 3 over No. 4. Then go to B and change the same way, and so on round to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as you did at A, and so on round table; then you will be through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first.

STRIPED ELASTIC BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--sixty being the usual number--fifteen hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have one-half the strands white hair, and one-half black, and place alternately Nos. 1 and 2 of white, and Nos. 3 and 4 of black; lift No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2; then repeat with the same strands, the No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2. Then go to B and braid the same, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and braid round to the left; lift No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2; then repeat with the same strands, the same as at A and B, and so on round to A. Then you are through the braid, ready to commence as at first. After it is braided, turn the braid inside out.

OPEN STRIPED BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--sixty being the usual number--fifteen hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have one-half of the strands white hair, and one-half black, and place alternately one strand of white and one of black; lift No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2; then repeat with the same strands, the No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2. Then go to B and braid the same, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and braid round to the left; lift No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2; then repeat with the same strands, the same as at A and B, and so on round to A. Then you are through the braid, ready to commence as at first. After it is braided, turn the braid inside out.

WIDE STRIPED BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being the usual number,--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have one-fourth of the strands white hair, and three-fourths black, and place all the white strands on one side of the table, and all of the black on the other side; lift No. 2 over No. 3, No. 2 over No. 1, No. 2 over No. 3, Nos. 2 and 3 over No. 4, and No. 2 over No. 1. Then go to B and change the same way, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as at A, and so on round table; then you are through the braid, ready to commence as at first.

NEAPOLITAN TIGHT BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being the usual number--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have one-fourth of the strands white hair, and three-fourths black,--the Nos. 1 white, and the Nos. 2, 3 and 4 black; lift No. 3 over No. 2, No. 3 over No. 4, No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 3 over No. 2. Then go to B and change the same way, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as at A, and so on round table; then you are through the braid, ready to commence as at first.

OPEN BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being the usual number for this braid--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, lift No. 3 over No. 2; then No. 3 over No. 4; then No. 1 over No. 2; then No. 3 over No. 2. Then go to B and change the same way, and so round the table to A. Then go to C, and commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as you did at A, and so on round the table, when you will be through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first.

Braid this over a round stick, the size you want the braid for use, varying the number of strands according to the size of the stick; then slip the braid from the stick on to the mold you wish to use, tying the braid so it will fit the mold exactly, and then boil in water five minutes, and take it out and put it in an oven, as hot as it will bear without burning, until it is quite dry. Then it is ready for use.

DIRECTIONS FOR NEW BEGINNERS.

The hair to be used in braiding should be combed perfectly straight, and tied with a string at the roots, to prevent wasting. Then count the number of hairs for a strand, and pull it out from the tips, dip it in water and draw it between the thumb and finger to make it lie smoothly; then tie a solid, single knot at one end, the same as you would with a sewing thread.

THE BOBBIN.

To prepare the bobbin for the hair, wind it with white thread, as shown in the plate, and fasten it with a slip-knot over the knob, leaving an end of some three inches, with a solid knot tied at the end of it. To adjust the hair to the bobbins, take the prepared strands of hair and tie the knotted ends in a square knot to the ends of the strings on the bobbins. When each strand is thus prepared and tied to the bobbin strings, place them even, and tie the ends with a string to prevent their slipping.

See cut of Bobbins on another page.

HOW TO PLACE THEM ON THE TABLE-COVER FOR BRAIDING.

Place the strands across the table-cover, over the numbers, as shown in the diagram, and fasten a weight to the end of them, under the table, through the center of cover; then tie the mold or form to be braided, around in the center, and you are ready for braiding.

For further reference, see plate of table, with explanations.

The Table Cover, as shown in diagram No. 1, represents the under side of the cover, showing the rim that fits over the cap, allowing the cover to revolve, for the convenience of the braider. The cavity through the cover and cap allows the braid, with the weight attached, to pass through as fast as braided.

For reference see Braiding Table complete, with bobbins and weights attached, on page 124.

The above cut represents Braiding Table No. 2, complete, showing the strands over the cover, with Bobbins attached; also, the weight attached to the braid, showing the manner of its passing through the table.

The above cut shows the Wood Bobbins, for fine open work or tight braids. No. 1 is used for braiding any pattern of from one to four hairs in a strand. No. 2 is used for braiding any pattern of from five to twenty hairs in a strand. To prepare the Bobbins for use, see explanations on page 121.

The above cut shows the size and shape of the Lead Bobbins. The No. 1 size is used for braiding Rings and Chains, that have but few hairs in a strand--from twenty to forty. No. 2 is used for braiding Chains that have from forty to one hundred hairs in a strand. Either size will answer for any pattern of Chain or Ring, but to vary the size of the Bobbin according to the number of hairs in a strand, gives it a nicer finish. To prepare the Bobbin, wind it with thread, as shown in the cut, leaving the thread some three inches long, with a solid knot tied at the end.

The above cut shows the weight used for drawing the work through the center of the table as fast as braided, and to balance the bobbins. Attention should be given to have the weight balance the bobbins properly, as too great a weight will make the braid loose, or too light a weight will leave it rough. Use any number of weights required to balance the bobbins.

The above cuts are made of wire and wood, for braiding over. The Nos. 1 and 2 are for braiding chains over--the No. 1 for small chains, and the No. 2 for large sizes. No. 3 is used for braiding tight or open work braids, of from thirty to forty strands. No. 4 is used for the same braids, with from forty to sixty strands in a braid. The mold may be made any length, to accommodate the work.

The above cuts show the size of forms used for tight or open work braids. The No. 5 is used for braids of from sixty to eighty strands, No. 6 of from eighty to one hundred, and No. 7 from one hundred to one hundred and twenty, according to the fineness of the braid.

The above cuts represent the completed Bracelet Braid. The No. 1 is formed from fourteen small braids, braided according to diagram and explanation on page 104,--using, however, but thirty-two strands, instead of eighty.

After you have the small braids all completed and prepared, as required in the explanation, sew them together at one end, so they all lie smooth and flat, then divide them off in twos, using each two as one strand, and plait them together; commence at the right side, take one strand at a time, and lift over one and under two till you get to the center, then commence on the left side and braid the same way, and so on till finished. Then sew the ends well, trim them, and put on a little shellac to fasten them in the clasps.

No. 2 is from the same pattern, and is prepared and finished up in the same manner. For this Bracelet you use fifteen small braids, divide them into threes for each strand, and lift over one and under one, from each side to the center.

The No. 1 cut of the above Bracelet Braids, is formed from patterns on pages 87 and 97, and instead of using forty and sixty strands, use but thirty-two for each. Braid six small braids from pattern on page 87, and three from pattern on page 97. Sew them tight together at one end, divide them off in threes, with the open work braid between the two tight ones, use each three as one strand, and plait them together in a common three strand braid.

No. 2 is braided according to pattern on page 89. Have three of the braids, sew them fast at one end, and then twist them carefully and evenly together; then sew and fasten with shellac, and it is ready for being gold mounted.

The No. 1 cut of the above Bracelet Braids, is formed from patterns on pages 26 and 86. Have two small braids from each of the patterns, lay them side by side, as in cut, and sew them firmly together, either with some of the hair, or with very fine silk of the same color. Then sew and trim the ends, and fasten with shellac.

No. 2 is braided from patterns on pages 18 and 86. Have four small braids like pattern on page 18, and two like pattern on page 86. Place them side by side, as in cut, and prepare and finish up the same as in the above.

The patterns used for the No. 1, represented above, are found on pages 63 and 95. Have one braid from pattern on page 63, and two from that on page 95. Place them side by side, as in cut, sew the ends firmly together, either with some of the hair, or with very fine silk of the same color. Then sew and trim the ends, and fasten with shellac.

For the No. 2, use two small braids from pattern on page 18, one from pattern on page 63, and two from pattern on page 95. Place them as in cut, sew them together, and prepare the same as No. 1.

The No. 1 of the above Bracelet Braids, is made up of two small braids from pattern on page 97, and three from pattern on page 101, using, however, but thirty-two strands, instead of sixty. Place them side by side, as in cut, and sew them together with some of the hair, or with fine silk of the same color. Sew, trim and shellac the ends, and they are ready for the gold mounting.

No. 2 is formed of four small braids, from pattern on page 97, and is prepared, sewed and finished up the same as No. 1.

LITHOGRAPHED DESIGNS.

The following Lithographic designs of Hair Jewelry, Flowers and Pictures, are given for the purpose of showing a few of the many beautiful forms into which the human hair may be transposed. Each and every one of the devices on the following pages, with the exception of the flowers and pictures, can be braided from the diagrams and explanations given in the first one hundred and twenty pages of this book. Select any article you may wish to make, and by referring to the patterns, you can easily find the style and directions whereby to braid it. We might have given twice the number of patterns, or even more, but any person can, after a little experience, readily invent new and different styles of braids, and by so doing, each can satisfy their own peculiar taste.

The making of Hair Flowers is very simple, and yet, of course, every one has first to learn it. Supply yourself with as many different colors of hair as you can, and by applying Gum Tragacanth, it renders it capable of being cut in any shape you may wish--such as leaves, twigs, buds, &c., and by judiciously arranging the colors, the effect will be very pleasing. Pictures are made in the same manner, and any one possessing the least artistic skill, can make any flower or picture they may desire, and many pleasing adornments and lasting mementos may thereby be had.

All articles intended to be worn as jewelry, should, of course, be mounted with gold, and as this kind of work is not done in all jewelry establishments, I wish to say that my facilities for this branch of business is complete, and the work done is in the best possible manner. I can guarantee satisfaction in all cases, let the style desired be what it may. In sending braids to be mounted, draw on paper, as near as can be, the style or design you want.