Scientific American Supplement, No. 365, December 30, 1882

Chapter 5

Chapter 53,714 wordsPublic domain

_The Construction of the Air-Cushion._--The expense of such an air-cushion seemed at first likely to prevent its being used; but a method of construction suggested itself, the expense of which proved to be very slight. The wooden back-board, as constructed, is made in one piece containing no wide cracks. It has laid upon it some thick brown Manila paper, the upper surface of which has been previously shellacked to make it entirely air-tight. Upon this shellacked surface is laid a single thickness of thin paper of any kind; even newspaper will answer. Its object is simply to prevent the sheet rubber, which forms the top of the air-cushion, from sticking to the shellacked paper. The heat of the sun is often sufficient to bring the shellac to a sticky state. It would probably answer as well to shellac the under side of the paper, and to use but one sheet, but I have not tried this plan. Around the periphery of the pad, there is laid a piece of rubber gasket about one and a half inches wide, and about one-eighth of an inch thick. In order that the gasket may not be too expensive, it is cut from two strips about three inches wide. One of them is as long as the outside length of the frame, and the other is as long as the outside width of the frame. Each of these strips is cut into two L-shaped pieces, an inch and a half in width, with the shorter leg of each L three inches long. When the four pieces are put together a scarf joint is made near each corner, having an inch and one-half lap. It is somewhat difficult to cut such a scarf joint as perfectly as one would wish, and it is best to use rubber cement at the joints. Over the gasket is laid a sheet of the thinnest grade of what is called pure rubber or elastic gum. Above this, and over the gasket, is placed a single thickness of cotton cloth, of the same dimensions as the gasket, and yet above this are strips of ordinary strap iron, an inch and a half wide and nearly one eighth of an inch thick. These strips are filed square at the ends and butt against each other at right angles. As the edges of the strips are slightly rounded, they are filed away sufficiently to form good joints wherever the others butt against them. The whole combination is bound together by ordinary stove bolts, one quarter of an inch in diameter, placed near the center of the width of the iron strips, and at a distance apart of about two and one-half inches. Their heads are countersunk into the strap iron. In making the holes for the stove bolts through the thin rubber, care should be taken to make them sufficiently large to enable the bolt to pass through without touching the rubber, otherwise the rubber may cling to the bolts, and if they are turned in their holes the rubber may be torn near the bolts and made to leak. A rough washer, under each nut, prevents it from cutting into the back-board. For the purpose of introducing air to, or removing air from, the pad, a three-eighths of an inch lock nut nipple is introduced through the back-board, the shellacked paper, and its thin paper covering. Without the back-board a T connects with the nipple. One of its branches leads, by a rubber tube, to the pressure gauge, which is a U-tube of glass containing mercury. The other branch has upon it an ordinary plug cock, and, beyond this, a rubber tube terminating in a glass mouth-piece. When it is desired to inflate the air-cushion, it is only necessary to blow into the mouth-piece. A pressure of one inch of mercury is sufficient for any work that I have yet undertaken. With particularly good paper, a lower pressure is sufficient. Upon the top of the pad is laid a piece of common cotton flannel with the nap outward, and with its edges tacked along the under edge of the back-board. The cotton flannel is not drawn tight across the top of the pad. The reason for employing a cotton flannel covering is this: When the sheet rubber has been exposed for a few days to the strong sunlight, it loses its strength and becomes worthless. The cotton flannel is a protection against the destruction of the rubber by the sunlight. I first observed this destruction while experimenting with a cheap and convenient form of gauge. I used, as an inexpensive gauge, an ordinary toy balloon, and I could tell, with sufficient accuracy, how much pressure I had applied, by the swelling of the balloon. This balloon ruptured from some unknown cause, and I made a substitute for it out of a round sheet of thin flat rubber, gathered all around the circumference. I made holes about one-quarter of an inch apart, and passing a string in and out drew it tight upon the outside of a piece of three eighths of an inch pipe, I then wound a string tightly over the rubber, on the pipe, and found the whole to be air-tight. This served me for some time, but one day, on applying the pressure, I found a hole in the balloon which looked as if it had been cut with a very sharp knife. That it had been so cut was not to be imagined, and on further examination I found that the fracture had occured at a line which separated a surface in the strong sunlight from a surface in the shade, at a fold in the rubber. I saw that all of the rubber which had been continuously exposed to the intense sunlight had changed color and had become whiter than before, and that that portion of the balloon had lost its strength. I then returned to the use of the mercury gauge, and took the precaution to cover my pad with cotton flannel, as a protection from the light and from other sources of destruction. This pad is upon the roof of the Institute; and is exposed to all weathers. As a protection from the rain and the snow, the whole is covered again with a rubber blanket. It has withstood the exposure perfectly well for a year, without injury. The gauge, made from flat rubber, is altogether so cheap and so convenient that I am now experimenting with one of this description having a black cloth covering upon the outside. The balloon is of spherical shape, the black cloth covering is of cylindrical shape, and I hope that this device will serve every necessary purpose. A sectional view of the air-cushion is offered as a part of this communication.

_The Frame, which Contains the Plate Glass_, is made of thick board or plank, with the broad side of the board at right angles to the surface of the glass. A rabbet is made for the reception of the glass, and four strips of strap iron, overlapping both the glass, and the wood, and screwed to the wood, keep the glass in position. Strips of rubber are interposed between the glass and the wood and between the glass and the iron. The frame is hinged to the back-board by separable hinges, so that the glass can be unhinged from the pad without removing the screws. Hooks, such as are used for foundry flasks, connect the frame with the pad upon the opposite side. A frame made in this manner is very stiff and springs but little, and its depth serves an excellent purpose. The air-cushion and the frame are so mounted that they can be easily turned to make the surface of the glass square with the direction of the sun's rays. It is necessary to have a tell tale connected with the apparatus, which will show when the surface of the glass has been thus adjusted. The shadow of the deep frame is an inexpensive tell-tale, and enables the operator to know when the adjustment is right. I have now described, in detail, the construction of the air-cushion with its back-board, as well as that of the frame which holds the plate glass, and I think it will be evident that the first cost of the materials of which they are made is comparatively little, and that the workmanship required to produce it is reduced to a minimum. It will also, I think, be evident that a uniform pressure, of any desired intensity, can be had all over the surface of the sensitized paper for the purpose of securing perfect contact between it and the negative. The blue copies that are taken with this apparatus are entirely free from blue lines when the negatives, chemicals, and paper are good.

_The Mechanism for Adjusting the Surface of the Glass, until it shall be Perpendicular to the Direction of the Sun's Rays._--I have found many uses for the blue copying process in connection with the work of instruction at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Notes printed by it are far better and less costly than those printed by papyrograph. I will not detain you now with an account of the uses that I have made of it. I will merely say that more than a year ago I found that my frame, which has a glass 3 feet x 4 feet, was wholly inadequate to the work in hand, and I tried to increase the production from it by diminishing the time of printing. The glass of this frame was horizontal, except when one of its ends was tilted off from the slides which guided it when pushed out of the window; and I knew that it took three or four times as long to print when the sun was low as it did when the sun was near the meridian. I made plans for mounting this frame upon a single axis, about which it could be turned after it had been pushed through the window, but I saw that no movement about a single axis would give a satisfactory adjustment for all times of the year, and I considered what arrangement of two axes would permit a rapid and perfect adjustment, at all times, with the least trouble to the operator. It was evident that when the sun was in the equatorial plane, the surface of the glass should contain a line which was parallel to the axis of the earth; and further, that if such a glass was firmly attached to an axis which was parallel to that of the earth, it would fulfill the desired purpose. For the glass, being once in adjustment, is only thrown out of position by the rotation of the earth, and if the glass is rotated sufficiently about its own axis, in a direction opposite to that of the earth, it will retain its adjustment. In order to have the adjustment equally good when the sun was either north or south of the equatorial plane, it was sufficient to mount a secondary axis upon the primary one and at right angles to it. About this the glass could be turned through an angle of 231/2 deg., either way, from the position which it should have when the sun was in the equatorial plane.

_The Construction of the Adjusting Mechanism._--I desired to have the mechanism as compact and inexpensive as possible, and to have the frame well balanced about the primary axis, in every position. I also desired to have a rotation of nearly 180 deg. about the principal axis. The plan adopted will be most easily understood by referring to the drawing which illustrates it. The axes are composed chiefly of wood. They are built up from strips which are 3 inches x 7/8 inch, and from small pieces of 2 inch plank. They are stiffly braced. A pair of ordinary hinges permit the secondary rotation to occur, while a pair of cast iron dowel pins with their sockets, such as are used in foundry flasks, serve as pivots during the primary rotation.

_The Adjustments._--The adjustment about the secondary axis does not need to be made more frequently than once a week, or once a fortnight. In order to prevent rotation about this axis when in adjustment, two cords lead from points which are beneath the back board, and as far removed from the secondary axis as is convenient. Each cord passes forward and backward through four parallel holes in a wooden block which is attached to the primary axis. The cords can be easily slipped in the holes by pulling their loops, but the friction is so great that they cannot be slipped by pulling at either end. It takes about twice as long to make the adjustment as would be necessary if a more expensive device had been used; but this device is at once so cheap, so secure, and has so seldom to be used, that it was thought to be best adapted for the purpose. To prevent rotation from occurring about the primary axis when it is not desired, a bar parallel to the secondary axis is attached by its middle point to the primary axis near one end. A cord passes from either end of this bar through cam shaped clamps, which were originally designed for clamping the cords of curtains with spring fixtures. These clamps are cheap. They are easily and quickly adjusted, and are very secure.

The whole apparatus can be located upon the roof of a building, or, if convenient, it can be mounted upon slides, and pushed through an open window when it is to be exposed to the light. If it is to be used upon a roof, a small hut, or shelter of some sort, near by is a great convenience to the operator, particularly in winter.

_An Inexpensive Drying Case for Use in Coating the Paper._--When the apparatus is in continuous use, time may be saved by having a convenient arrangement for drying the sheets that have been coated with the sensitizing liquid. I have made an inexpensive drying case which serves the purpose very well. It consists simply of a light-tight rectangular case of drawers. There are twenty-five drawers in all. They are constructed in an inexpensive manner, and are the only parts of the case that are worth describing. They are very shallow, being but 1-7/8 inches deep, and as it appeared that the principal expense would be for the materials of which the bottoms of the drawers should be composed, it was decided to make the bottoms of cotton cloth. This cloth is stretched upon a frame, the dimensions of which are greater than that of the paper to be dried. The stock of which the frame is made is pine, 11/4 inches wide, and three-eighths of an inch thick. The corners are simply mitered together and attached to each other by means of the wire staples that are commonly used for fastening together pages of manuscript, and which are called "novelty staples." Eight staples are used at each miter, four above and four below the joint. Two of the staples, at the top and near the ends of the joint, are set square across it, and two others, at the top and near the middle of the joint, are placed diagonally across it. The staples at the bottom are similarly placed. The joint is quite firm and strong, and is likely to hold for an indefinite period with fair usage. The cloth, stretched upon the frame, is fastened to it by means of similar staples. A dark colored cloth not transparent to light is to be preferred. A strip of pine, 1-13/16 inches wide, and three eighths of an inch thick, forms the vertical front of the drawer, and prevents the admission of much light from the front while the sheet is drying. Two triangular knee pieces, three-quarters of an inch thick, serve to connect the front board with the frame, and four small screws with a few brads are used in attaching them. The lower edge of the front board drops one-quarter of an inch below the bottom of the drawer. My case stands in a poorly lighted room, and paper dried in this case and removed to a portfolio as soon as it is dry does not seem to be injured by the light that reaches it. With the case in a well lighted room, I should prefer to have outer doors to the case, made of ordinary board six or eight inches wide, hinged to one end, and arranged to swing horizontally across the front of the case. These would more completely prevent the admission of light. The opening of any one of the doors would allow three or four of the drawers to be filled, while the rest of the case would be comparatively dark at the same time.[2]

[Footnote 2: Since this paper was read, I have seen in the office of the City Engineer of Boston a drying case which is similar in some respects to the one that I have devised. It has been longer in use than my own. The drawers are simply the ordinary mosquito netting frames covered with cotton netting. They have no fronts, but a door covers the front of the case, and shuts out the light.]

_The Portfolio for Protecting the Sensitized Paper from Exposure to Light._--The sensitized paper is very well protected from exposure to light, if kept in a portfolio or book, the brown paper leaves of which are considerably larger than the sensitized sheets. The sheets may be returned to such a book after exposure, and washed at the convenience of the operator. They can be washed more quickly and perfectly if _two_ water-tanks are provided in which to wash them. A few minutes' soaking will remove nearly all of the sensitizing preparation which has not been fixed by the exposure. If the soaking is too long continued in water that is much discolored by the sensitizing preparation, the sheets become saturated with the diluted preparation, and they may become slightly colored by _after_ exposure. If the first soaking is not too long continued, and if the sheets are transferred at once to a second bath of clean water, which is kept slowly changing from an open faucet, they may remain there until the soluble chemicals have been entirely extracted, and there will be no risk of staining by after exposure. Washing in two tanks is of more consequence when the ground is white and the lines blue, than when the ground is blue and the lines white.

_The Grades of Paper that are well Adapted for Blue Process Work._--I have tested many grades of paper, to ascertain if they were well adapted for blue process work. Some grades of brown Manila are very good; others have little specks embedded in their surfaces which refuse to take on a blue tint; still others, when printed upon, have white lines that are wider than the corresponding black lines of the negative. The blue obtained upon bond paper appears to be particularly rich, and the whites remain pure; but bond paper cockles badly, and the cockles remain in the finished print. Weston's linen record is an excellent paper. It is strong, cockles but little, and dries very smooth. A paper that is used by Allen & Rowell, for carbon printing, is comparatively cheap, and is an excellent paper. It is not so stiff as the linen record, and the whites are quite as pure. It does not cockle, neither does it curl while being sensitized. It comes in one hundred pound rolls, and is about thirty inches wide. The best papers are those that are prepared for photographic work. The plain Saxe and the plain Rives both give excellent results. Blue lines on a pure white ground can be obtained on these papers, from photographic negatives, without difficulty. None of the hard papers of good grade require the use of gum in the sensitizing liquid. The liquid penetrates the more porous papers too far when gum is not used, and without it good whites are seldom obtained upon porous paper.

_The Best Chemicals for this Work_ are the _recrystallized_ red prussiate of potash and the citrate of iron and ammonia, _which is manufactured by Powers & Wightman_, of Philadelphia. If the red prussiate has not been recrystallized, the whites will be unsatisfactory and the samples of citrates of iron and ammonia which have come to us from other chemists than those named, have all proved unreliable for this process.

_The Sensitizing Liquid.--Its Proportions._--The blue process was originally introduced from France, by the late Mr. A. L. Holley. I was indebted to Mr. P. Barnes, who was with Mr. Holley at the time, for an early account of it, and I had the first blue process machine that was in use in New England. Since 1876, instruction in the use of the blue process has been given to the students of mechanical engineering of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, and they have caused its introduction into many draughting offices. The proportions of the sensitizing liquid, as originally given me by Mr Barnes, were as follows:

Red prussiate of potash............. 8 parts. Citrate of iron and ammonia......... 8 parts. Gum arabic.......................... 1 part. Water.............................. 80 parts.

_Results of Experiments._--In our use, it first appeared that the gum might be omitted from the preparation when sufficiently hard papers were used. Next, that a preparation containing

Red prussiate of potash........ 2 parts, Citrate of iron and ammonia.... 3 " Water......................... 20 "

printed more rapidly. This preparation I continue to use when much time may elapse between sensitizing and printing; but, when the paper is to be printed immediately after sensitizing, I use a larger proportion of citrate of iron and ammonia. Before arriving at the conclusion that these proportions were the best to be used, I made a series of purely empirical experiments, beginning with the proportions:

Red prussiate of potash.......... 10 parts. Citrate of iron and ammonia....... 1 part. Water............................ 50 parts.

and ending with the proportions:

Red prussiate of potash............... 1 part. Citrate of iron and ammonia.......... 10 parts. Water................................ 50 "