Chapter 7

The agitator is an important part of the apparatus. Its object, in this instrument, is twofold. _First_, it serves to produce a uniform temperature throughout the body of water in the instrument; and _secondly_, it answers as a support to the heat-carrier of platinum or other metal, often intensely hot, which would injure or destroy the delicate metal of the bottom if allowed to fall on it. For this second purpose, no spiral revolving agitator, such as that commended by Berthelot, would suffice. The best form is such as I have shown in Fig. 1. A concave disk of sheet-brass, made to conform to the shape of the bottom of the cell, with a narrow rim turned up all around, of about 0.02 inch thickness, is liberally perforated with holes to lighten it, and to give free passage to water. The concave form causes the streams of water, produced by slightly raising and lowering the agitator, to take a radial direction downward or upward, so as to cross each other and promote rapid mixing. By a slight modification small vanes might be turned outward from the surface of the metal, which would produce mixing currents if the agitator were given a slight reciprocatory revolving motion, thus avoiding the alternate withdrawal and re-immersion of any part of the stem so strongly deprecated by Berthelot; but for several reasons I think an up and down motion of the agitator desirable in this instrument. The platinum heat carrier, sometimes at a temperature of 2,500° to 2,800° F., is thereby brought into more rapid and forcible contact with the water, steam or water in the spherical condition is washed away from its surface, and by cooling it more rapidly, the duration of the observation is lessened, and errors due to transmission of heat through the walls of the instrument are diminished. The upper part of the agitator stem is of hard rubber, and the brass portion, which terminates at the under side of the cover when the agitator is in its lowest position, suspended by the shoulder at the upper end, need never be lifted for the purpose of mixing out of the hard rubber tube at the cover, so that loss of heat from this cause must be very slight. The brass tube is very freely perforated with holes to admit water, streaming radially through the holes in the agitator, to contact with the thermometer. The hole in the stem at the top is flared, to receive a cork, through which the thermometer is to be passed. The bulb of the thermometer should be elongated, and very slightly smaller in diameter than the stem. After passing it through the cork, a very slight band--a mere thread--of elastic rubber should be put around the bulb, near its lower end, or a thin, narrow shaving of cork may be wound around and tied on, to keep it from contact with the brass tube, for safety; and a little tuft of wool, curled hair, or hard rubber shavings should be put in the bottom of the brass tube to avoid accidents. For the same purpose, a light, but sufficient fender of brass wire, say 0.03 inch diameter, might be judiciously placed around the brass tube at a little distance, to protect it and the thermometer inside of it from shocks from the platinum ball when hastily thrown in, as it must always be. I have had delicate and costly thermometers broken for want of such a fender. Thermometers cannot be too nice for this work. For accurate work at moderate temperatures, they should be about 14 inches long, having a "safe" bulb at the upper end, with a range of 20° F.--32° to 52°--in a length of 10 inches, giving half an inch to a degree F., and carefully graduated to tenths of a degree, so that they can be read to hundredths, corresponding to single degrees of the heat-carrier in the normal use of the instrument.

For the determination of the highest temperatures, up closely to 2,900° F., it will be convenient to have thermometers of greater range, say 32° to 82° F., 50° in a length of 12.5 inches, or a quarter of an inch to a degree F., also graduated to tenths, or at the least, to fifths of a degree. Such thermometers will be about 17 inches long.

It is very satisfactory to have _two_ instruments and a good outfit of thermometers and heat-carriers, in order to take duplicate observations for mutual verification and detection of errors.

HEAT CARRIERS.

For these platinum is greatly to be preferred to any other known substance. Its rather high cost is the only objection to its use. Its heat capacity is low, by weight, but its specific gravity is great, and sufficient capacity can be obtained in moderate bulk, while its high conductivity tends to shorten the duration of each experiment or observation. A convenient outfit for each instrument consists of three balls, hammered to a spherical form, one 1.1385 inches diameter, weighing 4,200 grains=0.6 pound avoirdupois; one 0.9945 inch diameter, weighing 2,800 grains=0.4 pound; and one 0.7894 inch diameter, weighing 1,400 grains=0.2 pound.

These can be obtained at 1-2/3 cents per grain, and will cost, respectively, $70.00, $46.67, and $23.33, and collectively, $140.00. At the assumed specific heat of Pt=0.0333+, the heat capacity of the respective balls will be 1/100, 1/150, and 1/300 of 2 pounds of cold water, and the two smaller balls used together will be equal to the larger one. Corrections for varying specific heat of platinum may be conveniently made by the tables given in a previous article.[1] Corrections for varying specific heat of water are less important, but may be made by the following table:

_Temperatures, Fahrenheit, and Corresponding Number of British Thermal Units Contained in Water from Zero Fahrenheit_.

_______________________________________________________________ Deg | B.t.u. || Deg | B.t.u. || Deg | B.t.u. || Deg | B.t.u. | ----+--------++-----+--------++-----+---------++-----+---------+ 32 | 32.000 || 57 | 57.007 || 82 | 82.039 || 107 | 107.101 | 33 | 33.000 || 58 | 58.007 || 83 | 83.041 || 108 | 108.104 | 34 | 34.000 || 59 | 59.008 || 84 | 84.043 || 109 | 109.107 | 35 | 35.000 || 60 | 60.009 || 85 | 85.045 || 110 | 110.110 | 36 | 36.000 || 61 | 61.010 || 86 | 86.047 || 111 | 111.113 | 37 | 37.000 || 62 | 62.011 || 87 | 87.049 || 112 | 112.117 | 38 | 38.000 || 63 | 63.012 || 88 | 88.051 || 113 | 113.121 | 39 | 39.001 || 64 | 64.013 || 89 | 89.053 || 114 | 114.125 | 40 | 40.001 || 65 | 65.014 || 90 | 90.055 || 115 | 115.129 | 41 | 41.001 || 66 | 66.015 || 91 | 91.057 || 116 | 116.133 | 42 | 42.001 || 67 | 67.016 || 92 | 92.059 || 117 | 117.137 | 43 | 43.001 || 68 | 68.018 || 93 | 93.061 || 118 | 118.141 | 44 | 44.002 || 69 | 69.019 || 94 | 94.063 || 119 | 119.145 | 45 | 45.002 || 70 | 70.020 || 95 | 95.065 || 120 | 120.149 | 46 | 46.002 || 71 | 71.021 || 96 | 96.068 || 121 | 121.153 | 47 | 47.002 || 72 | 72.023 || 97 | 97.071 || 122 | 122.157 | 48 | 48.003 || 73 | 73.024 || 98 | 98.074 || 123 | 123.161 | 49 | 49.003 || 74 | 74.036 || 99 | 99.077 || 124 | 124.165 | 50 | 50.003 || 75 | 75.027 || 100 | 100.080 || 125 | 125.169 | 51 | 51.004 || 76 | 76.029 || 101 | 101.083 || 126 | 126.173 | 52 | 52.004 || 77 | 77.030 || 102 | 102.086 || 127 | 127.177 | 53 | 53.005 || 78 | 78.032 || 103 | 103.089 || 128 | 128.182 | 54 | 54.005 || 79 | 79.034 || 104 | 104.092 || 129 | 129.187 | 55 | 55.006 || 80 | 80.036 || 105 | 105.095 || 130 | 130.192 | 56 | 56.006 || 81 | 81.037 || 106 | 106.098 || 131 | 131.197 | ----+--------++-----+--------++-----+---------++-----+---------+

[Footnote 1: _Journal_ for August, pp. 97, 98, and errata in _Journal_ for September, p. 172.]

A composite heat-carrier, of iron covered with platinum, answers well for temperatures up to about 1,500° F. A ball of wrought iron 0.88 inch diameter will weigh 700 grains, and a capsule of platinum spun over it 0.048 inch thick, making the outside diameter 0.976+ inch, will also weigh 700 grains. Upon the assumption of 0.0333+ for the specific heat of Pt and 0.1666+ for that of Fe, the composite ball will have a heat capacity equal to that of 4,200 grains of Pt, and equal to 0.01 of that of 2 pounds of cold water. A patch, about 0.35 inch diameter, has to be put in to close the orifice where the Pt capsule is spun together, and a slight stain will show itself at the joint around this patch, from oxidation of the iron, but the latter will be pretty effectually protected. Difference of expansion, which will not exceed 0.007 inch in diameter, will not endanger the capsule of Pt. The interruption of conductivity at the surface contact of the two metals makes the process of heating and cooling a little slower, but not noticeably so.

Such composite balls can be obtained for $20 each, $50 less than the cost of an equivalent ball of solid platinum, which is preferable in all but cost. Iron balls could be used for a few crude determinations. Cast iron varies too much in composition, and wrought iron oxidizes rapidly. While the oxide adheres it gains in weight, and when scales fall off it loses; and the specific heat of the oxide differs from that of metallic iron. Whatever metal is used, care must be taken to apply the appropriate tabular correction for PtFe, or Pt and Fe.

MANIPULATION.

Small graphite crucibles with covers, as shown in section, in Fig. 2, serve to guard against losing the ball, to handle it by when hot, and to protect it against loss of heat during transmission from the fire to the pyrometer. To guard against overturning the crucibles, moulded firebrick should be provided to receive them, two crucibles being put into one brick, in the same exposure, whenever great accuracy is desired, each serving as a check on the other, and their mean being likely to be more nearly correct than either one if they differ. The firebrick cover is occasionally useful to retard cooling, if, by reason of local obstructions, some little delay is unavoidable in transferring the balls from the fire to the water of the pyrometer. With convenient arrangements, this may be done in three seconds. After observing the temperature of the water, make ready for the immersion of the heat carrier by raising the agitator until a space of only about 1.5 of an inch is left between its rim and the cover. An instant before putting in the heat carrier--"pouring" it from the crucible--lift the cover and agitator both together, so that the rim of the latter is level with the sloping top of the instrument. The agitator then receives the hot ball without shock, and no harm is done. If the ball goes below the agitator, it is likely to injure the bottom of the cup. If, on taking the temperature of the water before the immersion of the heat carrier, any change is observed, either rising or falling, the direction and rate of such change, and the exact interval of time between the last recorded observation and the immersion, should be noted, in order to determine the exact temperature of the water at the instant of immersion. The temperature of the water will continue to rise as long as the heat carrier gives out heat faster than the cell loses it. The rise will grow gradually slower until it ceases, and the maximum can be very accurately determined. Examples of the mode of using the tables, and of determining the true temperature of the heat carrier at the instant of immersion from the observations with the instrument, are given in the table on pages 170 and 171 of this Journal for September. A method of using the tables, by which a closer approximation to the true temperature may be reached, will be pointed out in a subsequent article.

DETERMINATION OF THE CALORIFIC CAPACITY OF THE METALS OF THE PYROMETER, in terms of water, i.e., in British thermal units.

First. Weigh the cup, or cell, the lower plate of the cover and the metallic portion of the agitator, and compute their heat-capacity by the specific heat of the respective metals. Compute also the heat capacity of the thermometer; or, if it be long, of so much of it as is found to share nearly the temperature of the immersed portion. The result will be a minimum--indeed, in so small a vessel the inevitable loss by conduction and radiation will amount to more than one-third as much as the simple heat capacity of the metals.[1] The total must be ascertained by an application of the method of mixture. Ascertain the temperature of the interior of the instrument simply; pour in quickly but carefully a known quantity of water, say about two pounds, of known temperature, say about 100° F., and ascertain the temperature as soon after pouring as mixing can be properly performed. But a correction is necessary for loss of heat in the act of pouring. To ascertain the amount of this correction prepare a bath of tepid water, and bring all parts of the instrument--outside, inside, and interior portions, together with the vessel to pour from--exactly to one common, carefully ascertained temperature. Now take two pounds of the water and pour it into the cell in the same manner as before. Exposure of so thin a stream on two surfaces to the air of the room will produce a certain degree of refrigeration in the water, which is supposed to be warmer than the air, say at about 160° F. This effect will be due to conduction, by contact with the air, to radiation, and to evaporation; and by so much the refrigeration observed in mixing is to be diminished.

[Footnote 1: In our case the heat-capacity, thermometer included, was 0.0757; total, 0.1053; radiation, etc., 0.0296. Respectively, 71.9 per cent, and 28.1 per cent. of the total.]

Four experiments, carefully conducted, gave the following results:

Loss of temperature by pouring at 170° F., 0.81°, 0.86°, 1.00°, and 1.07° F.; mean, 0.935° F.

The following are values of the calorific capacity of my pyrometers, that is, of those parts of each which share directly the temperature of the inclosed water, including the thermometer to be used with the instrument, and the heat communicated to the eider-down and otherwise lost during an observation, expressed in decimals of a British thermal unit, or in decimals of a pound of cold water:

0.1048, 0.1052, 0.1077, 0.1008, 0.1028, and 0.1104.

Mean 0.1053 = 0 lb. 1 oz. 11 drms. Add water 1.8947 = 1 " 14 " 4 " ------ - -- -- 2.0000 = 2 " 0 " 0 "

This was the value used. The instrument, being put on delicate coin scales and counterbalanced, weights equal to 1.8947 lb. avoirdupois = 1 lb. 14 oz. 5 drms., were added to the counterbalancing weights, and cold water was poured in until the scales again balanced.

The pyrometer with its contained water was then just equal in heating capacity, while the temperature was not above 38° F. to two pounds of cold water. The two instruments were sensibly alike, but were numbered No. 1 and No. 2, and at each observation the one used was noted.

The process of preparation and testing appears long and tedious, and is indeed somewhat so; but the instruments once well made are durable, convenient in use, and with care reasonably accurate.

Compared with mercurial thermometers between 212° and 600° F., I believe them to be much more accurate, although less convenient.

For a range of temperatures from 212° to 900° F. they are certainly more trustworthy than anything save an air thermometer of suitable construction; and for all temperatures from 800° to 900° F. up nearly to the melting point of platinum they are without a rival, so far as I know.

For some situations the ball can best be inserted in the fire or other situation where an observation is desired, and withdrawn for immersion by means of long, slender tongs, with jaws resembling bullet moulds.

A word about the melting point of platinum. My balls certainly began to melt below 2,950° F., but I am by no means sure that they do not contain any silver, although their specific gravity gives assurance that they are at least nearly pure.--_Franklin Journal_.

* * * * *

LOCOMOTIVE PAINTING.

[Footnote: A paper read before the Master Car Painters' Association, Chicago, September, 1883.]

By JOHN S. ATWATER.

The subject of locomotive painting has been pretty well discussed at the former meetings of the association, and we have heard many excellent suggestions regarding the use of oils, mineral paints, and leads from gentlemen of long experience. But as the secretary has invited a display of my ignorance I will endeavor to explain as clearly as possible the methods I pursue, which, though not new or original, have been productive of good results.

If time enough can be had we can prime with oil alone, or in connection with the leads or minerals, and be sure of durability; but in these days of "lightning speed," "lightning illuminations," and "lightning painting," we must look about for something with "chain lightning" in it, which, unlike the lightning, will remain bright and stick after it strikes. We all have to paint according to the time and the facilities we have for doing the work.

The scale on iron or steel is the only serious trouble which the painter has to contend with. Rust can be removed or utilized with the oil, making a good paint, but unless time can be given it is better to remove the rust.

If possible let tanks get thoroughly rusted, then scrape off scale and rust with files sharpened to a chisel edge, rub down large surfaces with sandstone, and use No. 3 emery cloth between rivet heads, etc., then wash off with turpentine. This will give you a good solid surface to work upon.

For priming I use 100 pounds white lead (in oil), 10 pounds dry red lead, 13 pounds Prince's metallic, 8 quarts boiled oil, 2 quarts varnish, 6 quarts turpentine, and grind in the mill, as it mixes it thoroughly with less waste. I mix about 250 pounds at a time (put into kegs and draw off as wanted through faucets).

This _o-le-ag-in-ous_ compound can be worked both ways, quickly by adding japan, slower by adding oil, and reduce to working consistency with turpentine.

Without the oil or japan it will dry hard on wrought iron in about seven days, on castings in about four days. When dry putty with white-lead putty, thinned with varnish and turpentine, and knifed in with a "broad-gauge" putty knife. Next day sandpaper and apply first coat rough-stuff, which is, equal parts, in bulk, white lead and "Reno's umber," mixed "stiff" with equal parts japan and rubbing varnish, and thin with turpentine. Next morning, second coat rough-stuff, made with Reno's umber, fine pumice stone, japan, and turpentine. At 1 o'clock P.M. put on guide coat for the benefit of the small boys, which is rough-stuff No. 2, darkened with lamp-black and very thin. The addition of fine pumice to rough-stuff No. 2 encourages the boys in rubbing, and prevents the blockstone from clogging.

By the time the last end of the tank is painted the first end is ready for rubbing, though it is better to stand until next day.

After rubbing sandpaper and put on very thin coat of varnish and turpentine (about equal parts). This soaks into the filling, hardening it and making a close, smooth, elastic surface, leaving no brush marks and being more durable than a _quick_-drying lead. This can be rubbed with fine sandpaper or hair to take off gloss, and colored the next morning, but it is better to remain 24 hours before coloring.

Upon this surface an "all japan color" would, before night, resemble a map of the war in Egypt, but by adding varnish and a very little raw oil to the "japan color," making it of the same nature as the under surface, will prevent cracking.

If I sandpaper in the morning, I put on first-coat color before noon. Second ditto afternoon, and varnish with rubbing varnish that night; rub down, stripe and letter next day, though I consider it better to stripe and letter on the color, and varnish with "wearing body varnish."

The tank is then ready for mounting. When mounted I paint trucks and woodwork, two coats lead, color, "color and varnish," and finish the whole with "wearing body varnish." Time, from 14 to 16 days.

On cabs I use the same priming as on tanks, let stand five days, putty nail holes and "plaster putty" hard wood, and give two coats lead, mixed as follows: 100 pounds keg lead, 19 pounds Reno's umber, 3½ quarts japan, 1½ quarts varnish, 6 quarts turpentine. I call this "No. 2 lead," and allow 24 hours between coats, then apply a coat of No. 2 "rough stuff" at 7 A.M. Rub down at 10 A.M. two coats color, and varnish before 6 P.M. Striped and lettered next day and finished on the following day if it is not taken away from me, and put on the engine. Time, eleven days. Can be done in five days.

On castings, same priming, putty and "No. 2 lead" if time is allowed. I use rough-stuff No. 2 on all flat places, rub down and give two coats of No. 2 lead. Also painting inside of all castings, and sheet iron casings; and inside of boiler jacket, with "Prince's metallic."

All castings I get ready for color before they are put on the locomotive, except such as have to be filed or fitted on outside edges. As there is very little time given to finish a locomotive after the machinists get through, I usually finish it _the day before it is done_.

As a sample (one of many), an 8--17--C. locomotive boiler tested Saturday afternoon, August 12, boiler painted, with 120 pounds steam on, wheels put under, boiler covered, cab put on, and finished Monday, August 14, at midnight (did not work Sunday); primed, puttied, colored, lettered, and varnished same day. After 10 o'clock at night the painters have a chance, and it is their glorious privilege to work until morning. The machinists have all the time there is, the painters have what is left.

So much for the ordinary way. For a quicker method of painting tanks I send a sample marked No. 1. Time, including first coat varnish, five days. Priming, 1 pound Reno's umber to 2 quarts pellucedite; two coats rough-stuff, composed of umber and pellucedite, rubbed down, and thin coat of pellucedite; one coat drop black, one coat rubbing varnish; exposed to weather (southeasterly exposure near salt water) March 12, 1879; revarnished one coat, finishing September 1, 1879; remained out until March 22, 1880. Total exposure, one year and one and a half weeks; thrown around the shop until August, 1882; has been painted three years and six months. This is not a sample of good work, but of quick and rough painting. Considering the time and usuage it has experienced it has stood much better than I expected, though I cannot safely recommend that kind of painting when any other can be followed.

Sample No. 3--Time, including two coats varnish, 14 days. Painted as described in first part of this article; exposed in same places as No. 1, April 3, 1880; total exposure, six months; has been painted two years and five months.

The above are not exactly "Thoughts on Locomotive Painting." What my thoughts are would require several dictionaries to express; but that is owing, not to the kind of work, but having to produce certain results in a time that will not insure good, durable work.

For removing old paint on wood I use a burner. From iron, I have found the quickest and most effectual way is to dissolve as much sal soda in warm water as the water will take up, and mix with fresh lime, making a thick mortar; spread this on the tank, about an inch thick, with a trowel; when it begins to crack, which will be in a few minutes, it has softened the paint enough, so that with a wide putty knife you can take it all off; then wash off tank with water. This takes off paint, rust, and everything, including the skin from your hands, if you are not careful. Plaster one side of tank, and use mortar over again for the other side.