Sand and Canvas: Narrative of adventures in Egypt with a sojourn among the artists in Rome

The author meets with an advertisement in “The Times”--Finds an unexpected charm in his wig--Undergoes a cross-examination--Receives his credentials--Mistakes his road, and is s...

The harbour of Alexandria--Mr. Furner--Scene at the Hard--A donkey stand--Triumphal entry into the Great Square--The “India agency”--The English Okella--Plague seals--Confidenti...

Cairo--The Turkish bazaar--Test of a sword blade--The “Little Nile”--Recollections of the plague--The Eglintoun tents--Proceedings in the “Great Square”--Astonishment of the Pas...

Influx of travellers--Provision stores--The preserved “round”--New Year’s-day--Melancholy opening of New Year--Visit to the Pyramids--Old Selim--A moonlight walk--The Sphynx and...

The village of Sakhara--Sheik’s house--The brick pyramids--Mummies--The sacred ibis--Return to Cairo--An agreeable billet--Preparation for a voyage--Disappointment--A parting--T...

The “Minos” again--Café Francais--The Enfield stage--Departure from Egypt--Change of boats at Syra--A gale in the Mediterranean--Malta--The quarantine harbour--Fort Manuel--Inqu...

The Roman Douane--The Hotel Cesarj--Meditations--The Caffé Greco--Its occupants--Morning walk--Wine carts--The Ruspoli--Bellamy’s toilet--Preparations for the Cervaro--The robin...

The “Ponte Molle” club--Technical alphabet--Moccoletti--The black board--Election of candidates--The illustrated chorus--Harmonies--Change of domicile--The Via Sistina--The Pinc...

The “Greco”--Signor Giovanni--Frequenters of the Barcaccia--Pietro--The Roman cigar--Caffé du’ Bon Gout--“Punch a la Romaine”--Italian eating-houses--The Lepri--Old Aurelio--Ter...

The Ducal Palace--Bridge of Sighs--The Pozzi--Campanile--View from the summit--Swifts--The pigeons of St. Marks--Departure from Venice--The Ancona steamer--The Adriatic--Vicissi...

Change of domicile--Francesco--Friends from England--Picture-shops--Old painting--Artists and their patrons--Mr. Titmarsh--Anecdote of N---- --The dinner at Bertini’s--The Engli...

Tivoli--Country excursions--Ciciliano--Hospitality of the mountaineers--The Porta San Lorenzo--Visit to the Governor--Another start northward--Florence--The Uffizii--S----, and...

THE AUTHOR MEETS WITH AN ADVERTISEMENT IN “THE TIMES”--FINDS AN UNEXPECTED CHARM IN HIS WIG--UNDERGOES A CROSS-EXAMINATION--RECEIVES HIS CREDENTIALS--MISTAKES HIS ROAD, AND IS S...

My friend and I embarked at Southampton about nightfall, in the “Robert Burns,” but had scarcely been an hour under weigh, before the breakage of a piston-key occurred, of which...

I quitted Marseilles in the “Minos” steamer on the evening of June 21st, in company with some twenty fellow-passengers, bound to various parts of the Mediterranean. Amongst them...

THE HARBOUR OF ALEXANDRIA--MR. FURNER--SCENE AT THE HARD--A DONKEY STAND--TRIUMPHAL ENTRY INTO THE GREAT SQUARE--THE “INDIA AGENCY”--THE ENGLISH OKELLA--PLAGUE SEALS--CONFIDENTI...

Alexandria offers to the English stranger very little in the shape of amusement; at six, when the offices and shops are closed, the square becomes the public promenade, serving...

The water in the Mahmoudieh Canal being at this season of the year very low, and the steep muddy banks extremely slippery, it was no easy matter to disembark all the heavy lugga...

But to return to our caravan, which we left on the margin of the desert. Our rate of travelling was about five miles in the hour, for the track, which in some places, lay over a...

Entering a large vaulted chamber of stone, and delivering up my watch and valuables to a person appointed to receive them, (a precautionary measure against loss,) I was led by a...

At the end of the month I accompanied Mr. Raven to Alexandria in one of his Nile sailing-boats, which are light and commodious little vessels, drawing but two or three feet of w...

CAIRO--THE TURKISH BAZAAR--TEST OF A SWORD-BLADE--THE “LITTLE NILE”--RECOLLECTIONS OF THE PLAGUE--THE EGLINTOUN TENTS--PROCEEDINGS IN THE “GREAT SQUARE”--ASTONISHMENT OF THE PAS...

As it is not my intention to weary the reader with a description of each of my several journeyings across the Isthmus, I shall allude only to two more at the close of the year 1...

INFLUX OF TRAVELLERS--PROVISION STORES--THE PRESERVED “ROUND”--NEW YEAR’S-DAY--MELANCHOLY OPENING OF NEW YEAR--VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS--OLD SELIM--A MOONLIGHT WALK--THE SPHYNX AND...

THE VILLAGE OF SAKHARA--SHEIK’S HOUSE--THE BRICK PYRAMIDS--MUMMIES--THE SACRED IBIS--RETURN TO CAIRO--AN AGREEABLE BILLET--PREPARATION FOR A VOYAGE--DISAPPOINTMENT--A PARTING--T...

On inquiring of my friend Furner, at the office, I found that the “Minos” French steamer was to start on the 7th, and that I had only one clear day to make my final arrangements...

During my imprisonment in the Lazaretto, I had employed some of my leisure time in selecting the most agreeable route homewards, for towards England I had pretty much determined...

I devoted the remaining three or four days of my stay at Naples to a round of sight-seeing, resigning myself with this purpose into the hands of my _cicerone_ of the “New York.”...

THE ROMAN DOUANE--THE HOTEL CESARJ--MEDITATIONS--THE CAFFE GRECO--ITS OCCUPANTS--MORNING WALK--WINE CARTS--THE RUSPOLI--BELLAMY’S TOILET--PREPARATIONS FOR THE CERVARO--THE ROBIN...

THE “PONTE MOLLE” CLUB--TECHNICAL ALPHABET--MOCCOLETTI--THE BLACK BOARD--ELECTION OF CANDIDATES--THE ILLUSTRATED CHORUS--HARMONIES--CHANGE OF DOMICILE--THE VIA SISTINA--THE PINC...

THE “GRECO”--SIGNOR GIOVANNI--FREQUENTERS OF THE BARCACCIA--PIETRO--THE ROMAN CIGAR--CAFFE DU BONGOUT--“PUNCH A LA ROMAINE”--ITALIAN EATING-HOUSES--THE LEPRI--OLD AURELIO--TERRI...

Shortly after my arrival in Rome, I had an opportunity of witnessing the drawing of a lottery, or _Tombola_, as it is there called, an interesting and exciting scene. These are...

The warm season was now coming on, and with its approach came my old tormentor, the rheumatism. I found that I had worn out the remedies prescribed by my friend Dr. A---- of Cai...

Arrived at “Firenze la bella,” we drove to an inn called _La Porta Rossa_, which had been recommended to us by a Roman acquaintance. Here I met my friends Bellamy and Dickson, w...

As I have devoted some few pages to the _trattorie_ and coffee-houses of Rome, it would hardly be fair to leave those of Venice unnoticed. Every one knows the peculiar appearanc...

THE DUCAL PALACE--BRIDGE OF SIGHS--THE POZZI--CAMPANILE--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT--SWIFTS--THE PIGEONS OF ST. MARKS--DEPARTURE FROM VENICE--THE ANCONA STEAMER--THE ADRIATIC--VICISSI...

CHANGE OF DOMICILE--FRANCESCO--FRIENDS FROM ENGLAND--PICTURE-SHOPS--OLD PAINTINGS--ARTISTS AND THEIR PATRONS--MR. TITMARSH--ANECDOTE OF N---- --THE DINNER AT BERTINI’s--THE ENGL...

TIVOLI--COUNTRY EXCURSIONS--CICILIANO--HOSPITALITY OF THE MOUNTAINEERS--THE PORTA SAN LORENZO--VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR--ANOTHER START NORTHWARD--FLORENCE--THE UFFIZII--S----, AND...