Chapter 6

CHAFING-DISH DAINTIES.

_Gentlemen, prepare not to be gone; We have a trifling foolish banquet._ --ROMEO AND JULIET.

_Small cheer and great welcome makes a merry feast._ --COMEDY OF ERRORS, iii. I.

_A little quail, or some such light thing, when I come home at night._

--CHARLES DICKENS.

_Now and then your men of wit Will condescend to take a bit._ --SWIFT.

INTRODUCTION.

=Chafing-dishes Past and Present.=

Well, he was an ingenious man that first found out eating and drinking.--_Swift._

How fire was discovered, when it was first applied to the needs of human beings, the origin and early use of cooking and heating utensils,--all are concealed from us in the mists that surround the life of prehistoric man. But at the dawn of history, even before the beginning of our era, crude appliances for cooking were in use; and, without doubt, one of the earliest of these was an utensil corresponding in some particulars, at least, to the chafing-dish of to-day.

The chafing-dish is a portable utensil used upon the table, either for cooking food or for keeping food hot after it has been cooked by other means. In ancient times, the fuel of the chafing-dish was either live coals or olive oil; to-day we use either electricity, gas, alcohol or colonial spirits.

The first chafing-dishes of which historic mention is made consisted of a pan heated over a pot of burning oil, the pan resting upon a frame which held the pot of oil. It was with such an utensil, perhaps, that the Israelitish women cooked the locusts of Egypt and Palestine, for these were eaten as a common food by the people of the biblical lands and age.

Mommsen, in his history of Rome, while speaking of the extravagance of the times, as shown in the table furnishings, probably refers to the chafing-dish when he says: "A well-wrought bronze cooking-machine came to cost more than an estate." The idea that this might be the utensil referred to is strengthened by the fact that many chafing-dishes have been found in the ruins of Pompeii. These were made of bronze, and highly ornamented. Evidently, olive oil was the fuel used in these dishes.

Coming down to more modern times, Madame de Staël had a dish of very unique pattern, and, when driven by the command of Napoleon from her beloved Paris, she carried her chafing-dish with her into exile as one of her most cherished household gods. At the present day among the favored few, who have full purses, are found sets of little silver chafing-dishes about four inches square. These tiny dishes rest upon a doylie-covered plate, and a bird or rarebit may be served in them as a course at dinner, one to each guest. The cooking is not done in these dishes, and they are not furnished with lamps; in them the food, while it is being eaten, is simply kept hot by means of a tiny pan filled with hot water.

In reality, the modern chafing-dish is a species of _bain marie_, or double boiler, with a lamp so arranged that cooking can be done without other appliances. It consists of four parts. The _first_ is the blazer, or the pan in which the cooking is done; this is provided with a long handle. The _second_ is the hot-water pan, which corresponds to the lower part of the double boiler; this should be provided with handles, and is a very inconvenient dish without them. The _third_ is the frame upon which the hot-water pan rests, and in which the spirit-lamp is set. The _last_, but by no means least, part is the lamp; this is provided with a cotton or an asbestos wick. When the lamp has a cotton wick, the flame is regulated by turning the wick up or down, as in an ordinary lamp. At present this style of lamp is found only in the more expensive grades of dishes,--silver-plated, and costing from $15 upwards. When asbestos is used as the wick, the lamp is filled with this porous stone, which is to be saturated with alcohol immediately before using, and the top is covered with a wire netting. The flame is regulated by means of metal slides, which open and shut over the netting, thus cutting off or letting on the flame, as it is desired.

=Chafing-dish Appointments.=

With all appliances and means to boot. --HENRY IV., iii. I.

The chafing-dish should always rest upon a tray, as a very slight draught of air, or the expansion of the alcohol when heated, will sometimes cause the flame to flare out and downward, and thus an unprotected tablecloth might be set on fire.

Often a cutlet dish is considered a necessary part of a chafing-dish outfit; but as one of the chief merits of the chafing-dish consists in the possibility of serving a repast the instant it is cooked, there would seem to be a want of propriety in removing the cooked article to a platter and garnishing the dish before serving.

A polished wooden spoon, with long handle and small bowl, is a most convenient utensil to use while cooking the dainty; but the regulation chafing-dish spoon is needed when serving the same. Such a spoon has a broad bowl of silver or aluminum, with rounded end, and a long ebony handle.

The filler is a most convenient article for use, when the lamp needs replenishing with alcohol, but in its absence the alcohol may be turned into a small pitcher and from that into the lamp. A lamp of the average size holds about five tablespoonfuls of alcohol, and this quantity will supply heat for at least half an hour.

Glass, granite or tin measuring-cups, upon which thirds or quarters are indicated, also tea- and tablespoons, are essential for accurate measurements.

Several items are essential to the successful serving of a meal from the chafing-dish. To be a pronounced success, the work must be done noiselessly and gracefully. The preparation of all articles is the same for the chafing-dish as for the common stove; but where the mixing is done at the table, as for a rarebit, the recipe takes on an additional flavor, according to the deftness with which it is done.

Let, then, everything be ready and at hand, before the guests or family assemble at the table. Have the lamp filled and covered, so that it may remain filled. Have all seasonings measured out in a cup. In case the yolks of eggs are to be used, they will not injure, having been beaten beforehand, if they be kept covered. When oysters are to be served, have them washed, freed from bits of shell, drained, and left in a pitcher from which they can be readily poured. The quantity of butter used in the recipes is indicated by tablespoonfuls, and may be measured out beforehand and rolled into dainty balls with butter-hands, a spoonful in each ball.

Bear in mind that the hot-water pan is to be used in all cases where the double boiler would be used, if the cooking were to be done upon the range. For instance, where the recipe calls for milk or cream, except in the making of a sauce, use the bath from the beginning. Also, be careful always to place the blazer in the bath before eggs are added to any mixture. Indeed, the hot-water pan is the one feature of the chafing-dish which it is most important to notice; for on the proper use of the hot-water pan the value of the chafing-dish as an exponent of scientific cookery entirely depends. She who well understands the principles upon which the use of this rests has gained no small insight into the secret of all cookery, be it scientific, economic or hygienic; for a knowledge of the effect of heat at different temperatures, applied to food, is the very foundation-stone upon which all cookery rests.

Although the chafing-dish is especially adapted to the needs of the bachelor, man or maid, its use should not be relegated entirely to the homeless or the Bohemian. In the sick-room, at the luncheon-table, on Sunday night, it is most serviceable and wellnigh indispensable; it always suggests hearty welcome and good cheer.

While it is out of place, at any ceremonial meal, as a means of cooking, even on such occasions a lobster Newburgh or other dish that needs be served piping hot to be eaten at its best may be brought on in individual chafing-dishes. These are supplied with hot-water pans and lamps. At a chafing-dish supper each guest can prepare his own rarebit.

Any operation in cooking that can be performed on the kitchen range may be successfully carried out on the chafing-dish, provided one be skilled in its use. But as the dining-room is usually chosen as the site in which to test its possibilities, here it were well to confine one's efforts to such dishes as will not give rise to too much disorder. Sautéing and frying it were better to reserve for the range and a well-ventilated kitchen.

Alcohol is most commonly used in the lamp of the chafing-dish; and, on account of its cheapness, one is often advised to buy _wood_ alcohol. But in large markets, where many fowl are singed daily over an alcohol flame, the marketmen will tell you that the very best article is none too good for their purpose. It does not smoke, wastes less rapidly, and in the end will prove quite as economical.

=Are Midnight Suppers Hygienic?=

"Being no further enemy to you Than the constraint of hospitable zeal."

In regard to the chafing-dish and its most prominent use, some one may fittingly ask: Is it hygienic to eat at midnight? Can one keep one's health and eat late suppers? As in all things pertaining to food, no set rules can be given to meet every case; much depends upon constitutional traits, individual habits and idiosyncrasies. One may practise what another cannot attempt. As a rule, however, people who eat a hearty dinner, after the work of the day is done, do not need to eat again until the following breakfast hour.

Those who are engaged, either mentally or physically, throughout the evening, cannot with impunity, eat a very hearty meal previous to that effort; but after their work is done they need nourishing food, and food that is both easily digested and assimilated. But even these should not eat and then immediately retire; for during sleep all the bodily organs, including the stomach, become dormant. Food partaken at this hour is not properly taken care of, and in too many cases must be digested when the individual has awakened, out of sorts, the next morning.

It is well to remember, also, that, at any time after food is eaten, there should be a period of rest from all active effort; for then the blood flows from the other organs of the body to the stomach, and the work of digestion is begun. Oftentimes we hear men say they must smoke after meals, for unless they do so they cannot digest their food. They fail to see that it is not the tobacco that promotes digestion, but the enforced repose.

But, if we must eat at midnight, the question may well be asked, What shall we eat? That which can be digested and assimilated with the least effort on the part of the digestive organs. And among such things we may note oysters, eggs and game, when these have been properly--that is, delicately--cooked.

=How to Make Sauces.=

Let hunger move thy appetyte, and not savory sauces.--_Babees Book._

"Change is the sauce that sharpens appetite."

As so many dishes are prepared in the chafing-dish that require the use of a simple sauce, we give in this place the methods usually followed in the preparation of common sauces. For one cup of sauce, put two tablespoonfuls of butter into the blazer; let the butter simply melt, without coloring, if for a white sauce, but cook until brown for a brown sauce. Mix together two tablespoonfuls of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of black or white pepper, or a few grains of cayenne or paprica, and beat it into the bubbling butter; let the mixture cook two or three minutes, then stir into it, rather gradually at first, and beating constantly, one cup of cold milk, water or stock. Now, when the sauce boils up once after all the liquid is in, it is ready for use. In making a white sauce some cooks add, from time to time while the sauce is being stirred, a few drops of lemon juice, which they claim makes the sauce much whiter.

Sometimes we make the sauce after another fashion, using the same proportions of the various ingredients. If water or stock be used, put it in the blazer directly over the fire. If the liquid be milk, put it into the blazer, and the blazer over hot water; cream together the butter, flour and seasonings, dilute with a little of the hot liquid, pour into the remainder of the hot liquid, and stir constantly until the sauce thickens, and then occasionally for ten or fifteen minutes, until the flour is thoroughly cooked.

In making a brown sauce, first brown the butter, then brown the flour in the butter, and, whenever it is convenient, use brown stock as the liquid.

INGREDIENTS FOR ONE CUP OF SAUCE.

2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt. A few grains of pepper. 1 cup of liquid.

INGREDIENTS FOR ONE PINT OF SAUCE.

1/4 a cup of butter. 1/4 a cup of flour. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt. 1/4 a teaspoonful of pepper. 1 pint of liquid.

=Measuring.=

In all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material.

=Flavoring.=

When rich soup stock, flavored with vegetables and sweet herbs, is at hand for use in sauces, additional seasonings are not necessary; but when a sauce is made of milk, water, or water and meat extract, some flavor more or less pronounced is demanded. A few bits of onion and carrot browned in hot butter, or anchovy sauce or curry may be added; but, all things considered, the most convenient way to secure an appetizing flavor is by the use of "Kitchen Bouquet." This alone or in conjunction with a dash of some one of the many really good proprietary sauces on the market is well-nigh indispensable in chafing-dish cookery.

RECIPES.

"_No variety here, But you, most noble guests, whose gracious looks Must make a dish or two become a feast._"

OYSTER DISHES.

He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.--_Swift._

=Oysters.=

Put into the blazer twenty-five to fifty choice oysters. As soon as they are hot and look plump, add salt, pepper and butter. Serve on buttered toast or crackers. Add two tablespoonfuls of cream or half a tablespoonful of lemon juice before serving, if desired.

=Oysters, No. 2.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 pint of solid oysters. 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice. 1 scant teaspoonful of salt. A few grains of cayenne. Beaten yolks of 2 eggs.

_Method._--Put the oysters into the blazer. When they look plump and the edges curl, put the blazer into the hot-water pan and add the seasonings. Add a few spoonfuls of the liquor from the pan to the yolks of the eggs, and, after mixing well, pour into the chafing-dish. Stir constantly until the liquor thickens, then serve on thin slices of buttered toast or on thin crackers.

=Oysters à la D'Uxelles.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 pint of parboiled and drained oysters. 1 pint of oyster liquor or chicken stock. 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms. 4 tablespoonfuls of flour. A few drops of onion juice. A few grains of cayenne. 1 teaspoonful of salt. 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice. Yolks of 2 eggs.

_Method._--Let the oysters be parboiled and drained beforehand. (To parboil, heat quickly to the boiling-point in their own liquor.) Melt the butter in the blazer, add the flour, salt and pepper, and cook till frothy; add the oyster liquor or chicken stock and cook until the boiling-point is reached. Now add the oysters, and, as soon as they are heated thoroughly, put the blazer into the bath and add the beaten yolks, the onion and lemon juice and the mushrooms. As soon as the eggs thicken the sauce a little, serve on toast or crackers. If uncooked mushrooms are used, cook them in the butter two or three minutes before the flour and seasonings are added.

=Curried Oysters.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 pint of oysters (parboiled and drained). 1/2 a cup of cream. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 1 tablespoonful of flour. 1/2 a cup of oyster liquor. 1/2 a teaspoonful of curry powder. 1/2 a teaspoonful of chopped onion. 1 teaspoonful of salt. 1 saltspoonful of pepper.

_Method._--Cook the onion and butter in the blazer a few moments. Mix the flour and curry powder and stir into the butter. When frothy add the oyster liquor. As soon as the sauce boils up once, add the salt, pepper and cream, and, in a moment, the oysters. When the oysters are thoroughly heated, serve on buttered toast or crackers.

=Curried Oysters, No. 2.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 quart of oysters. 1/4 a cup of butter. One small mild onion. 1 tablespoonful of curry powder. 1/4 a cup of flour. 1 cup of oyster liquor. 1 cup of white stock. 1/2 a cup of thick tomato pulp. Salt and pepper to taste.

_Method._--Bring the oysters to the boiling-point in their own liquor, skim, drain, and set aside. Heat the butter in the blazer, sauté in it the onion cut in slices, stir in the flour and curry powder mixed with the salt and pepper, and, when frothy, add the oyster liquor, stock and tomato pulp (a pint of pulp reduced by slow cooking to half a cup). When the sauce boils, add the oysters; and when hot serve on buttered toast or fried bread.

=Fricassee of Oysters.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 quart of oysters. 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. Yolks of 2 eggs. 1/2 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 1 tablespoonful of flour. Pepper, salt, cayenne.

_Method._--Brown the butter and add to it the parsley, seasonings and flour; let heat, then add the well-drained oysters, and, when the edges begin to curl, add the well-beaten yolks. Serve on warmed plates, with fried bread and parsley.

=Creamed Dishes.=

(_Oysters, shrimps, lobsters, sweetbreads, chicken, veal, fish, mushrooms, asparagus tips, peas, etc._)

INGREDIENTS.

2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 4 tablespoonfuls of flour. 2 saltspoonfuls of salt. 2 cups of cream, or 2 cups of milk and 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. 1 saltspoonful of pepper. 1 pint of fish, meat, etc. 2 tablespoonfuls of mushrooms, chopped or diced. 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 1 teaspoonful of onion juice. 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice.

_Method._--Prepare the sauce in the usual manner. If oysters are used, they should have been parboiled previously and drained, and, if large, cut in pieces. Fish should be flaked when hot, and meats cut into dice when cold.

=Devilled Dishes.=

Season any of the creamed dishes highly with cayenne, onion juice, mustard, and Worcestershire or other sauce.

=Scrambled Eggs with Oysters.=

Cream together two tablespoonfuls of butter and one tablespoonful of anchovy paste. Melt in the blazer, then add half a dozen eggs, beaten slightly with one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of paprica. Stir and cook, and, when beginning to thicken, add half a pint of oysters, parboiled, "bearded," and cut fine. When scrambled, serve on sippets of toast, lightly spread with anchovy paste.

=Panned Oysters.=

With a fork pressed into a butter ball, rub over the bottom of the hot blazer. Then cover the surface with small rounds of toast, and put one or two uncooked oysters on each round; cover, and cook until plump, dust with salt and pepper, and put a bit of butter on each oyster. Serve, when the butter has melted, with slices of lemon.

=Panned Oysters with Maître d'Hôtel Butter.=

Cook as before. Have ready two tablespoonfuls of butter beaten to a cream; add a few grains of salt and paprica, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and, by degrees, the juice of half a lemon. Spread upon the oysters before serving.

=Oyster Cromeskies.=

Scald the oysters in their own liquor over a quick fire. When plump wrap each oyster in a slice of bacon, and fasten with a small skewer (wooden toothpick). Sauté in the blazer, heated very hot. Serve on thin rounds of toast. These cromeskies are most easily cooked in a double broiler, resting on a dripping-pan, in a hot oven.

=Oysters Sauté.=

Wash and drain the oysters, season with salt and pepper, roll in fine crumbs, dip in beaten egg, then roll in crumbs again. Put a little olive oil or clarified butter in the blazer; when it is heated, put in the oysters, brown them on one side, turn, and brown on the other side.

=Oyster Canapés.=

Scald a cup of cream, add two tablespoonfuls of fine-grated bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, a dash of paprica and a grating of nutmeg; then add two dozen oysters, washed, drained and chopped. Stir until the oysters are thoroughly heated, but without boiling the mixture. Spread rounds of toast with butter, and then with the oyster mixture. Serve at once accompanied by olives, pim-olas or gherkins.

=Escalloped Oysters.=

Stir one cup of cracker crumbs into half a cup of melted butter. Heat half a cup of cream or strained oyster liquor in the blazer, put in a layer of oysters (about a cup), washed and drained, and sprinkle with a part of the prepared crumbs, salt and pepper; add another layer of oysters, the rest of the crumbs, and salt and pepper. Cover, and cook nearly ten minutes. Do not stir the oysters.

LOBSTER AND OTHER SEA FISH.

And ate a lobster, and sang and mighty merry. --_Pepys' Diary._

Take every creature in of every kind. --_Pope._

=Buttered Lobster.=

Pick the meat from a boiled lobster and cut it into small pieces; sift over it the coral; mix with it also the liver, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or three of lemon juice, one-third a cup of butter and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of cayenne and made mustard; heat in the blazer until thoroughly hot. Serve on cup-shaped leaves of lettuce with a quarter of a hard-boiled _egg_ on the top of each portion.

=Lobster à la Newburgh.=

INGREDIENTS.

Meat of 2 medium-sized lobsters. 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt. 1/4 a teaspoonful of pepper. 2 tablespoonfuls, each, of sherry wine and brandy. Grating of nutmeg. Yolks of 4 eggs. 1 cup of cream.

_Method._--Remove the meat from the shells and cut it into delicate slices. Put the butter in the blazer, and, when it melts, put the lobster into it and cook four or five minutes. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, wine and brandy. Stir the cream into the beaten yolks, and then stir both into the lobster mixture. Serve as soon as the eggs thicken the sauce.

=Plain Lobster.=

Pour three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice over the meat of one lobster and season with salt and pepper. Put three tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer, and, when it is melted, add the prepared lobster; stir until hot and serve at once.

=Clams à la Newburgh.=

Use one quart of clams. Separate the hard from the soft parts of the clams. Chop the hard parts fine. Substitute the soft and the chopped parts of the clams for the lobster and proceed as for lobster à la Newburgh.

Oyster, chicken, turkey or sweetbread à la Newburgh may be prepared by substituting one of the above ingredients for the lobster.

=Lobster à la Bordelaise.=

INGREDIENTS.

2 cloves of garlic, chopped. 1 sliced carrot. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 glasses of white wine (half a cup). Meat of 2 lobsters. 1 glass of brandy. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. Chopped parsley, white and cayenne pepper, salt.

_Method._--Melt the butter in the blazer and in it cook the onion and carrot about five minutes. Remove the carrot; add the wine, lobster and seasonings. When thoroughly heated, add the butter, parsley and brandy and serve at once.

=Hawaiian Lobster Curry.=

(ADA D. WAGG.)

INGREDIENTS.

1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 1/2 an onion, chopped 1 clove of garlic, very fine. A small piece of grated ginger root. 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch. 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder. 1 pint of milk. 1 grated cocoanut. Meat of a lobster weighing 2 pounds. Salt and pepper to taste.

_Method._--Grate the cocoanut and set it aside to soak an hour in one pint of milk. Sauté the onion and garlic in the butter, add the cornstarch and seasonings, and cook until frothy; add the milk strained from the cocoanut, gradually, and, when the sauce boils up once, add the lobster; salt and pepper to taste.

=Lobster à la Bechamel.=

INGREDIENTS.

Meat of 2 lobsters. 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. 4 tablespoonfuls of flour. Salt and pepper. Grating of nutmeg. 1 cup of cream. 4 yolks of eggs. 1 cup of white stock, seasoned with mace, bay leaf, etc. 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice. Dried and sifted coral.

_Method._--Cut the lobster in delicate slices or in dice, as preferred. Make a bechamel sauce, after the usual manner, of the butter, flour, seasonings, cream and stock. Add the lobster, and, when heated thoroughly, add the beaten yolks mixed with a few spoonfuls of the sauce from the blazer. Add the lemon juice, and sprinkle the dried and sifted coral or some chopped parsley over the top of the mixture as it is served.

Oysters, clams, sweetbread, chicken or turkey may be served à la Bordelaise or Bechamel.

=Lobster à la Poulette.=

INGREDIENTS.

1/3 a cup of butter. 1/3 a cup of flour. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt. Dash of paprica. 1/4 a teaspoonful of white pepper. 1 cup of cream. 1 cup of well-seasoned chicken stock. Juice of half a lemon. 2 hard-boiled eggs. 1 pint of diced lobster meat.

_Method._--Prepare a white sauce, using the ingredients mentioned, and adding the lemon juice by degrees. Add the lobster to the sauce. Cut the whites of the hard-boiled eggs in rings and pass the yolks through a sieve. Serve the lobster on bits of toast, or on thin crackers, with a sprinkling of the yolks over the lobster, and circles of the whites around it.

=Oyster Crabs à la Hollandaise.=

Remove the meat from one pint of oyster crabs; put this, with a little of the liquor, into the blazer, add two tablespoonfuls of butter, a dash of paprica and a scant half-teaspoonful of salt, and let cook three or four minutes without boiling. Set the blazer over hot water and add three-fourths a cup of hollandaise sauce (either hot or cold). Stir until the mixture is heated, then add one tablespoonful of lemon juice and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Serve on toast, in Swedish timbale cases or in patty cases.

=Hollandaise Sauce.=

Put one-fourth a cup of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, a grating of nutmeg and a dash of paprica over hot water to heat. Beat the yolks of four eggs, add the hot vinegar to them, return to the fire, and stir constantly while the mixture thickens; then add two more tablespoonfuls of butter in bits.

Shrimps, oysters, lobsters and delicate fish are all good when served after this recipe.

=Devilled Crabs.=

Melt one tablespoonful of butter, add one tablespoonful of flour, and, when blended, one cup of milk. Add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a sieve, and season to taste with salt, paprica, a teaspoonful of lemon juice and wine; cayenne, mustard and tobasco sauce are approved by some. Add one cup of crab meat and one-fourth a cup of canned mushrooms cut in quarters. Serve on toast.

=Oyster Crabs.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 pint of oyster crabs. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 1/2 an onion, sliced. 1 tablespoonful of flour. 1 cup of white stock. 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice. 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 1 yolk of egg. Salt and pepper.

_Method._--Melt the butter in the blazer, add the onion, and let cook until a light-brown color; add the flour and mix until smooth; add the stock and stir until it thickens. Add the crab meat, lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper. Beat the yolk of the egg and add two or three spoonfuls of the sauce to it; mix well, add to the ingredients in the blazer, stir constantly, and serve as soon as heated.

=Crabs à la Creole.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 green pepper, chopped fine. 1 clove of garlic, chopped fine. 1 small onion, chopped fine. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 1 cup of tomatoes. 1 cup of crab meat. Pepper and salt.

_Method._--Put the butter in the blazer; when melted, add the garlic, onion, salt, pepper and tomatoes, and let cook ten minutes; add the crab meat (fresh or canned). Serve when hot on sippets of toast.

=Shrimps à la Poulette.=

Make a sauce of one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and one cup and a half of white stock; add one tablespoonful of anchovy essence and a quart of shelled shrimps. When hot add the beaten yolks of two eggs, with half a cup of cream. Lastly, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and serve, _without_ boiling, on sippets of toast.

=Shrimps with Peas.=

A pint of shrimps and a cup of peas, heated in a cup and a half of cream sauce, are particularly good.

=Anchovy Toast.=

Put about two tablespoonfuls of clarified butter into the blazer. When hot add bread cut as for sandwiches. Brown the bread on one side, turn, and brown the other side. Spread with anchovy paste and serve at once.

=Anchovy Toast with Eggs.=

Prepare the anchovy toast in one chafing-dish, and, at the same time, the eggs in another. Beat five eggs slightly, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and half a cup of cream or milk. Put a large tablespoonful of butter in the blazer; when melted, add the egg mixture. Stir until the egg is creamy, and serve on the anchovy toast.

=Anchovy Toast with Spinach.=

Press cooked spinach, chopped fine, through a purée sieve; reheat with a little butter, salt and two or three drops of tobasco sauce. Sauté rounds of bread to a golden brown in a little hot butter, spread with anchovy paste, and over this spread the purée of spinach. Press into the spinach on each round of bread a quarter of a hard-boiled egg cut lengthwise, having the yolk uppermost.

=Anchovies with Olives.=

All the preparations for this dish, with the exception of sautéing the bread, may be made some hours before serving.

Thoroughly wash the anchovies, cut off the fillets, and chop very fine with a sprig of parsley and a few chives, or a slice or two of Bermuda onion; put the whole into a mortar and pound well, adding, meanwhile, a little paprica. Cut some large selected olives in halves, take out the stones, and fill them with the anchovy mixture. Cut small rounds of bread an inch and a half in diameter and an inch in thickness; remove a crumb, similar in shape to the olive, from the centre of each. Put a little butter into the blazer, and, when hot, sauté the rounds of bread on both sides; drain on soft paper, put an olive in the centre of each and a little mayonnaise over the whole. Five anchovies will suffice to stuff a dozen olives.

=Sardine Canapés.=

Have ready yolks of eggs, cooked until firm, and an equal bulk of sardines, each rubbed to a paste. Mix thoroughly, and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Prepare some bread in the blazer as for anchovy toast; then spread with the sardine mixture and serve at once.

=Curried Sardines.=

Mix together one teaspoonful, each, of sugar and curry powder and a saltspoonful of salt. Put these into the blazer with one cup of cream and half a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Stir until the mixture is hot, then put into it ten or twelve sardines. In the mean time, heat some butter or oil in a second blazer, and in it sauté some bits of bread a little larger than the sardines, and round slices of tart apple. Serve each sardine on a bit of bread; pour a little of the sauce over the top and garnish with a round of apple. The slices of apple will keep their shape, if the apples be cored and then cut into rounds without paring.

=Sardines.=

(_French fashion._)

Remove the skins and tails from about a dozen sardines and heat them in the oven. Heat some butter or oil in the blazer of one chafing-dish, and in it sauté some bits of bread of suitable shape to serve under the sardines. Put in the blazer of another chafing-dish, over hot water, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, one teaspoonful, each, of tarragon vinegar, cider vinegar and made mustard, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of butter. Stir the sauce until it is quite thick, then serve the sardines on the bread with the sauce poured over them. Olives are agreeable with this dish.

=Moulded Halibut with Creamed Peas.=

Two chafing-dishes will be requisite for preparing this delicious luncheon dish.

Have ready one pound of raw halibut chopped very fine; beat the yolk of an egg, add to it one teaspoonful and a fourth of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of white pepper and a few grains of cayenne or paprica. Blend a teaspoonful of cornstarch with a little milk; then add milk to make two-thirds a cup, stir gradually into the egg and seasonings, and then very slowly into the fish. Lastly, fold into the mixture one-third a cup of thick cream, beaten until stiff. Butter dariole moulds thoroughly, arrange a circle of cooked peas around the bottom of each mould, and fill with the fish preparation two-thirds full. Set into the blazer, surrounded with boiling water; after the water is again boiling, turn down the flame so that the water will barely quiver, and let cook about twenty minutes. Prepare, in the mean time, in the second blazer, creamed peas. Turn the fish from the moulds and surround with the

=Creamed Peas.=

Have ready one can of peas, drained, rinsed, covered with boiling water and drained again. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; add one tablespoonful of flour with one teaspoonful of sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt; add the peas and one-third a cup of milk, stir, and let cook until the liquid begins to bubble.

=Purée of Fish.=

Scald one quart of milk, with half an onion and a stalk of celery; strain into a pitcher and keep hot if convenient. Add to the remnants of cold boiled white fish enough canned salmon to make two cups; chop fine and rub through a purée sieve. Cook together in the blazer two tablespoonfuls of butter, three of flour, one teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Add the milk gradually, and, when all is added and the contents of the blazer are boiling, put a few spoonfuls of the sauce into the fish and beat until smooth; add more sauce, and, when well diluted and smooth, turn the whole into the blazer. Stir, and let cook until very hot; then serve with crackers, split, buttered, and browned in the oven. These proportions give three pints of soup. Vegetable purées may be prepared in the same way.

=Salt Codfish with Tomato Sauce.=

Sauté one clove of garlic and half an onion, grated or chopped fine, in three tablespoonfuls of butter; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprica and one pimento, chopped fine; also, add one cup of tomato pulp, and, when the sauce boils, half a pound of "hatcheled" codfish, or any salt codfish picked into small pieces and freshened in one quart of cold water. Serve, while hot, with brownbread sandwiches, and pickles or pim-olas.

=Salt Codfish in Cream Sauce.=

Pick enough salt codfish into bits to make one cup. Let stand in cold water about half an hour. Make one cup of cream sauce, using one tablespoonful and a half of flour, two tablespoonfuls of butter and one cup of cream; remove all the water from the fish by wringing in a cheese-cloth, add the fish to the sauce, and, when heated, stir in a lightly beaten egg. Serve upon rounds of toast, with olives, or plain lettuce, or tomato salad.

=Réchauffé of Fish.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 cup of cooked fish, flaked. 1 cup of macaroni, cooked, and still hot. 1/4 a cup of butter. 1 cup of tomato purée. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt. Dash of pepper. 8 drops of tobasco sauce.

_Method._--Melt the butter in the blazer and toss about in it the macaroni and fish; add the seasonings and the tomato purée, which should be well reduced. Serve when thoroughly heated.

=Réchauffé of Fish, No. 2.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 pint of cooked fish, flaked and seasoned. 1/4 a cup of butter. 1/4 a cup of flour. 1 cup of fish stock. 1 cup of cream and milk combined. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt, if needed. 1 teaspoonful of anchovy paste. 1/2 a teaspoonful of paprica. 2 tablespoonfuls of oil. 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.

_Method._--Marinate the fish while hot with salt, pepper, oil and lemon juice, adding, also, a few drops of onion juice, if desired. At serving-time make a sauce of the butter, flour, salt, paprica, stock and cream; add the paste and the fish, and, when the fish is thoroughly heated, turn down the flame of the lamp or set the blazer into hot water. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

=Sardines on Toast.=

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer; add two tablespoonfuls of flour and a dash of paprica, and stir until smooth and browned a little; then add half a cup of stock and half a cup of sherry; stir until thickened, then let simmer a few minutes, and add nearly a cup of sardines, from which the bones and skin have been removed and the flesh separated into small pieces. Let stand until very hot.

CHEESE CONFECTIONS.

You must eat no cheese . . . it breeds melancholy. --_B. Jonson._

Art thou come? Why my cheese, my digestion! --_Troilus and Cressida._

Cheese is probably the most popular article served from the chafing-dish. What possessor of a chafing-dish has not concocted a rarebit--and the best one ever made? Were you ever present when the process of evolving a rarebit was in progress and half the guests were not disappointed in the seasoning? For perfection in this toothsome dish, mustard is demanded by some; by others the use of this biting condiment is considered a lapse in culinary taste. The consensus of opinion, however, is in favor of paprica; and, theoretically, Mattieu Williams considers bicarbonate of soda to be demanded, not for the sake of seasoning, but as an aid to digestion.

As regards the digestibility of cheese, and, consequently, its adaptability to midnight suppers, opinions differ widely. Dr. Hoy, an excellent authority on diet, calls cheese a concentrated meat, a tissue builder,--but not itself a tissue, and so without waste elements,--a condensed, compact food product, and indigestible on account of its very compactness. Still, when the caseine, or curd, is softened and broken up by the addition of liquid and gentle heat, it is rendered more digestible; and cheese so prepared may be for some, if taken with no other nitrogenous food, an acceptable and easily digested article of diet.

=Welsh Rarebit.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 tablespoonful of butter. 1/2 a pound of cheese, cut fine or grated. 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt. A dash of paprica. 1/2 a cup of cream. The beaten yolks of 2 eggs.

_Method._--Melt the butter, add the cheese and seasonings, and stir until melted; then add the eggs, diluted with the cream, and stir until smooth and slightly thickened. _Do not allow the mixture to boil_ at any time in the cooking; if necessary, cook over hot water. Serve on thin crackers, hot shredded-wheat or granose biscuit, or on bread toasted on but one side, placing the rarebit on the untoasted side.

=Welsh Rarebit, No. 2.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 tablespoonful of butter. 1/2 a teaspoonful of cornstarch. 1/2 a cup of thin cream. 1/2 a pound of mild cheese. 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt. 1/2 a saltspoonful of mustard. A few grains of cayenne.

_Method._--Melt the butter; add to it the cream in which the cornstarch has been stirred. Let cook two minutes, and add the cheese broken into bits. Stir until the cheese is melted and the mixture perfectly smooth. Add the salt, mustard and paprica, and serve at once as above.

=Welsh Rarebit with Ale.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 tablespoonful of butter. Generous 1/2 a pound of soft American cheese, broken into bits. 1/3 a teaspoonful of salt. 1 teaspoonful of mustard. A few grains of cayenne. 1/2 a cup of ale. 1 egg.

_Method._--Put the butter into the chafing-dish (using the bath); when melted, add the cheese and ale. Mix the salt, mustard and cayenne, add the egg, and beat thoroughly. When the cheese is melted, add the egg mixture and let cook until it thickens. Serve as before.

=Halibut Rarebit.=

Marinate a cup of cooked halibut, flaked, with one tablespoonful of olive oil, a few drops of onion juice, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of paprica. Make a sauce of two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and half a cup, each, of chicken stock and cream. Add two-thirds a cup of grated cheese and the halibut. Serve, as soon as the fish is hot and the cheese melted, on the untoasted side of bread toasted on one side.

=Oyster Rarebit.=

Clean and remove the hard muscles from half a pint of oysters; parboil the oysters in the chafing-dish in their own liquor until their edges curl, then remove to a hot bowl. Put one tablespoonful of butter, half a pound of cheese broken in small bits, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and mustard and a few grains of cayenne into the chafing-dish. While the cheese is melting, beat two eggs slightly, and add to them the oyster liquor; mix this gradually with the melted cheese, add the oysters, and turn at once over hot toast.

=Sardine Rarebit.=

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add half a pound of fresh cheese, grated or broken into bits, and stir constantly while it melts; then add gradually the beaten yolk of an egg, diluted with two-thirds a cup of cream. Stir until smooth and slightly thickened; season with a scant half a teaspoonful of paprica, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and a few drops of tabasco sauce. Have ready a box of sardines, drained, broiled carefully and laid on the untoasted side of bread toasted on one side; pour the rarebit over the sardines and serve at once.

=Golden Buck.=

Prepare a rarebit in one chafing-dish; break some eggs into the blazer of another containing salted water just "off the boil." When the eggs are poached and the rarebit ready, place an egg above the rarebit on each slice of toast.

=Yorkshire Rarebit.=

Add two slices of broiled or fried bacon to each service of golden buck.

=Mock-Crab Toast.=

Melt a tablespoonful of butter in the blazer, turning it about so as to butter the surface thoroughly. Put in half a pound of mild cheese, grated, and stir until the cheese is melted; then add the yolks of three eggs, beaten and diluted with a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, a teaspoonful of made mustard, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice or vinegar and one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprica. Stir until smooth. Serve upon the untoasted side of sippets of bread toasted on one side.

=Cheese Fondue.=

INGREDIENTS.

1/4 a pound of cheese broken into bits. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 1 tablespoonful of flour. 1 saltspoonful, each, of soda and mustard. 3/4 a cup of milk. A few grains of cayenne or paprica. 1/2 a cup of stale bread crumbs. 3 eggs.

_Method._--Sift the soda, mustard and cayenne into the flour and cook in the butter until frothy, then add the milk gradually; when the sauce boils, after all the milk has been added, put the blazer into the bath, add the crumbs and cheese, and cook and stir until the cheese is melted and the mixture becomes smooth; add the eggs, beaten until light, and serve at once.

=English Monkey.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 cup of milk. 1 egg. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 1 cup of fine bread crumbs from the centre of a stale loaf. 3/4 to 1 whole cup of cheese.

_Method._--Melt the butter, add the cheese, and stir while melting; then add the bread crumbs, which have been soaked in the milk and the egg lightly beaten.

EGGS.

New-laid eggs, with Baucis' busy care Turned by a gentle fire, and roasted rare. --_Dryden._

=Scrambled Eggs with Cheese.=

Beat six eggs until whites and yolks are well mixed; add half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of paprica and six tablespoonfuls of milk or cream. Melt two tablespoonsful of butter in the blazer, pour in the egg mixture, and stir and scrape from the blazer as it thickens. Just before it comes to the proper consistency, sprinkle in half a cup of grated Parmesan cheese, still stirring as before, and turn down the flame or set the blazer into the bath. American dairy cheese may be used instead of the Parmesan.

=Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Salmon.=

Cook half a cup of smoked salmon, cut into thin strips, in a tablespoonful of butter three or four minutes; then add to the eggs just before the cooking is finished.

=Scrambled Eggs à la Union Club.=

Heat one can of pimentos (sweet red peppers) in boiling salted water; drain, and serve on rounds of buttered toast the pimentos filled with eggs scrambled with mushrooms or truffles. Pour around the pimentos a pint of well-seasoned brown sauce, to which one-third a cup of madeira has been added.

=Scrambled Eggs with Dried Beef.=

Cut half a pound of dried beef, sliced thin, into short match-like strips, cover with boiling water, drain at once, and add six eggs, beaten slightly, and one-fourth a cup of milk. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into the blazer; when hot add the eggs and other ingredients, and stir and cook until the eggs are set.

=Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes.=

Have ready a pint of tomato pulp, from which the seeds have been removed, seasoned with onion, celery or parsley, and sweet herbs. Put a generous tablespoonful of butter into the blazer; add the tomato, and, when hot, six eggs, slightly beaten, half a teaspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper. Stir until the contents are of a creamy consistency. Serve with brownbread toast.

=Eggs and Mushrooms à la Dauphine.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 pint of thick tomato sauce, highly seasoned. 1 pint of mushrooms. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt. 1/2 a saltspoonful of pepper. 6 eggs.

_Method._--Cook the mushrooms in the tomato sauce until tender; add the seasoning and the eggs, which have been broken into a bowl. Lift the whites carefully with a silver or wooden fork while cooking, until they are set; then prick the yolks and let them mix with the tomato, whites of the eggs and mushrooms. Serve quite soft on toast.

=Scotch Woodcock.=

Make a cup of white sauce; add one tablespoonful of essence of anchovies and five hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise.

=Eggs à la Italienne.=

INGREDIENTS.

5 eggs. 1 cup of milk. 1/2 a cup of boiled spaghetti, chopped. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 1/2 a cup of fresh mushrooms, sliced. 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 1 scant teaspoonful of salt. White pepper.

_Method._--Melt the butter in the blazer and sauté in it the sliced mushrooms; add the milk and spaghetti, and, when heated thoroughly, put the blazer in the bath and add the beaten eggs. Stir and cook until the eggs have thickened; then add the parsley and seasoning, and serve at once.

=Eggs à la Parisienne.=

Butter thickly the inner sides of as many dariole moulds as there are individuals to serve. Then sprinkle them thickly with fine-chopped parsley, ham or tongue. Break an egg into each mould, taking care not to break the yolk; sprinkle over the tops a little salt and pepper, and set in the blazer surrounded by hot water to two-thirds the height of the moulds. If, after a time, the water boils, even with the lamp turned low, put the blazer into the bath and continue cooking, until the eggs are set. The eggs should be covered while cooking. When cooked, turn from the moulds and serve with a purée of tomatoes. Half a cup of sliced mushrooms added to the purée improves this dish.

=Curried Eggs.=

(See cut facing page 186.)

INGREDIENTS.

6 eggs, cooked, in water just below the boiling-point, 20 minutes. 1/2 a cup of stock (fish, veal or chicken). 1/2 a cup of milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, or 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch. 1/2 a teaspoonful of curry-powder. 1 slice of onion. Teaspoonful of lemon juice. Salt and pepper to taste.

_Method._--Cook the onion in the butter a few minutes, then remove it and add the flour and curry powder; when frothy add the milk and stock. As soon as the boiling-point is reached, set the blazer into the hot-water pan and add the eggs cut in quarters. Season with salt and serve on sippets of toast.

Light meats, fish, oysters and lobsters may be prepared in the same way, omitting the half-cup of milk in the case of oysters. Chickens' livers may also be prepared by the same recipe, in which case the livers should have been cooked previously. Or they may be sautéd in a little hot butter in one dish, while the sauce is made in another.

=Shirred Eggs.=

Butter four or five shirring-dishes. To half a cup of grated bread crumbs and half a cup of chopped chicken or ham add enough cream to mix to a smooth, moist consistency, like butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Put a tablespoonful of the mixture into each dish, break in an egg, season with a dash of salt and pepper, cover with more of the mixture, and cook in the same manner as eggs à la Parisienne. Serve in the cups.

=Eggs.=

(_Creole style._)

Have prepared on a hot serving-dish a can of tomatoes, stewed until they are reduced to a scant pint, and upon the tomatoes rounds of buttered toast for each egg to be served. Break some eggs, one by one, into a cup, and turn them into the blazer two-thirds filled with hot water; turn the flame low and put on the chafing-dish cover; if the water boils, turn down the flame. When the eggs are nicely poached, remove with a skimmer to the toast. Pour out the water and melt in the blazer, browning if desired, two tablespoonfuls of butter; add one tablespoonful of lemon juice; heat to the boiling-point, dust the eggs with salt and pepper, pour over the sauce, and serve.

=Egg Canapés.=

Have ready, cooked beforehand, four hard-boiled eggs; cut them carefully into halves lengthwise, remove the yolks, and press them through a small sieve. Soak two anchovies, then dry and remove the bones and chop them with two or three cold cooked mushrooms and half a teaspoonful of capers; mix in the sifted yolks, add a seasoning of salt, pepper and paprica, and one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. This work may be done some hours before the time of serving. Have a little oil or clarified butter in the blazer, and sauté in it some rounds of bread--one for each half of an egg. When the bread is of good color on one side, turn it and place half an egg--the space from which the yolk was taken being filled with the anchovy mixture--on the bread; cover the blazer, and, when the second side of the bread is browned nicely and the egg hot, serve at once.

=Eggs with Asparagus.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 cup of asparagus peas. 1 cup of asparagus liquor. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt. Paprica. 3 or 4 eggs.

_Method._--Cut the asparagus in pieces of the size of a pea and cook until tender. In cooking, reserve the tips until the other pieces are partially cooked, or, being more tender, they will become broken while the others are still uncooked. Make a sauce of the butter, flour, salt, paprica, and water in which the asparagus was cooked, or use half a cup of cream in the place of part of the asparagus liquor. When the sauce boils, add the asparagus and mix lightly with the sauce; break the eggs, one after another, into a cup and slide them carefully on to the top of the asparagus. Season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, and, if desired, a grating of nutmeg. Set the blazer into the bath and put on the cover. When the eggs are nicely poached, remove the eggs, with the asparagus below, on to rounds of toasted and buttered bread.

=Eggs with Spinach.=

Prepare in the same manner, using for one cup of chopped spinach one-third the quantity of sauce given above. If convenient, the eggs may be poached in a second dish, and in milk, water or stock.

=Eggs.=

(_Italian Style._)

Cut six cold, hard-boiled eggs into eighths lengthwise; add these, with a cup of cooked macaroni and half a cup of grated Parmesan cheese, to two cups of white sauce, at the boiling-point, in the blazer. Set over hot water, add a teaspoonful of onion juice, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and anchovy essence to taste, and serve very hot.

DISHES LARGELY VEGETARIAN.

Although the cheer be poor, 'Twill fill your stomachs. --_Titus Andronicus._

=Macaroni à la Italienne.=

Have ready one-fourth a pound of macaroni, cooked until tender, but not broken, in boiling salted water, and then drained, and rinsed in cold water.

Make a sauce of two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprica, half a cup of well-seasoned stock and half a cup of well-reduced tomato pulp. Add the drained macaroni and stir occasionally, while it becomes thoroughly heated, then add one-fourth a cup of grated Parmesan cheese. Lift the macaroni with a fork and spoon so as to mix thoroughly with the cheese, and serve at once.

Strain the tomatoes through a sieve sufficiently fine to keep back the seeds, and cook the pulp, very slowly, until reduced to at least half its bulk. A more hearty dish may be served by adding, just before the cheese, three-fourths a cup of cold tongue cut in thin slices and then stamped into small fanciful shapes with a French cutter; or the tongue may be cut simply in small cubes.

=Asparagus Peas.=

Scrape the scales from the stalks of asparagus and cut the tender portions into pieces one-fourth an inch long. Cook in boiling salted water until tender; drain, and keep the peas hot. For three cups of peas make one cup of drawn-butter sauce, using as liquid the water in which the asparagus was cooked, or white stock. Add the peas to the sauce; beat the yolks of two eggs, add half a cup of cream, and stir into the sauce and peas; add, also, one tablespoonful of butter. Serve on croutons of fried bread, or in cases made of shredded-wheat biscuit.

=Fresh Mushrooms and Sweetbreads.=

Soak one pair of sweetbreads in cold water; cover with boiling salted water and let boil three minutes, then simmer twenty minutes; cool, and cut in small cubes. Sauté in two tablespoonfuls of hot butter sufficient mushroom caps, peeled and broken into pieces, to make with the sweetbreads two cups and a half. Make a sauce in the blazer, using one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and flour, one cup of chicken stock and half a cup of cream; add the sweetbreads and mushrooms, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, and, if desired, the yolks of two eggs, beaten and diluted with one-fourth a cup of cream or sherry. Serve on toast, in patty cases, or in cases of shredded-wheat biscuit.

=Mushroom Cromeskies.=

(See cut facing page 198.)

Peel the caps of fresh mushrooms; wrap each mushroom in a slice of bacon, pinning the bacon around the mushroom with a wooden toothpick. Sauté in a hot blazer and serve on toast. These are particularly good, cooked in a hot oven in a double broiler resting over a baking-pan.

=Creamed Mushrooms.=

Wipe carefully half a pound of mushrooms; peel the caps and break them in pieces. Reserve the stems for another dish. Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer and in it sauté the mushrooms; dust with salt and pepper, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and, when cooked in the butter, one cup of cream, gradually; stir until the sauce boils, let simmer a few minutes, then serve with toast or crackers.

=Artichokes à la Bordelaise.=

(MRS. E. M. LUCAS.)

Put one-fourth a cup of butter and half a cup of sifted bread crumbs into the blazer and light the lamp; when the crumbs are well moistened with the butter, add a teaspoonful of fine-minced parsley, one pint of cooked artichokes cut into small cubes, half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne and half a pint of rich, sweet cream. Let boil up once and put out the flame; add a teaspoonful of lemon juice and half a teaspoonful of the grated rind of a lemon (or omit the grated rind); stir well and serve at once.

=Puff-balls Sautéd.=

Heat three tablespoonfuls of butter or oil in the blazer. Cut the puff-balls in slices half an inch in thickness, season with salt and pepper, dip in egg and bread crumbs, and sauté in the blazer to a golden brown.

=Mushrooms and Macaroni.=

(_Italian style._)

Put one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of lemon juice into the blazer; add a dozen peeled mushrooms, broken into pieces and blanched, and cook slowly, covered, five or six minutes. Then add one cup and one-fourth of milk, and, when scalded, stir in two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, creamed together. When the sauce boils, add one-fourth a pound of macaroni, cooked and blanched in the usual manner; heat over hot water, and, just before serving, add one-fourth a cup of grated cheese.

=Canned Peas with Egg.=

Rinse, drain, and rinse again in boiling water one can of peas. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Beat the yolk of an egg, dilute with four tablespoonfuls of cream, and stir into the peas. Serve as soon as the egg thickens slightly.

=Curried Vegetables.=

Make a sauce of one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and flour, one tablespoonful of curry powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and a pint of milk; add half a teaspoonful of onion juice, one cup of cooked peas, half a cup, each, of potato balls, turnips cut into cubes or fanciful shapes, and carrots cut into straws.

=Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 pint of potato balls, cut with French cutter, and cooked tender, may be used either hot or cold. 1 cup of milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 yolks of eggs. 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice. 1 tablespoonful of parsley, finely chopped. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt. A dash of pepper.

_Method._--Heat the milk and potatoes in the blazer over hot water. Cream the butter and add the yolks of the eggs, beating them in well; add the parsley and seasonings, mix thoroughly, and, when the potatoes are hot and have absorbed part of the milk, stir the egg and butter into them; add the lemon juice and serve at once.

=White Hashed Potatoes.=

Butter the blazer and put into it about three cups of cold chopped potato, salted during the chopping. Pour over the potato a little hot stock, or water, and scatter some bits of butter over the top. Cover, and cook slowly, without stirring or browning, until thoroughly heated.

=String Beans à la Lyonnaise.=

Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer; add a fine-sliced onion and sauté to a delicate brown; add a quart of string beans, cooked, a dash of pepper, a grating of nutmeg and a little salt; heat thoroughly, tossing the beans occasionally; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of lemon juice and another tablespoonful of butter, in bits, and serve at once.

=Tomato Sandwich.=

INGREDIENTS.

6 shredded-wheat biscuit. 4 medium-sized tomatoes. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt. 8 teaspoonfuls of sugar, or 8 teaspoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing.

_Method._--Peel the tomatoes, cut in small pieces, add the salt, and sugar, if used, and set aside in a cool place. Split the biscuits, dip the inside lightly into cold water without wetting the outside, put the halves together, and arrange in a buttered blazer; cover, and heat over hot water; then separate the halves, and, using a knife dipped in hot water, spread with butter. Put a layer of tomatoes on the bottom half, if sugar has not been used, add the salad dressing, and cover with the top of the biscuit, pressing it down lightly.

=Kornlet Oysters.=

To one cup of kornlet add two well-beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of flour, a scant half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of paprica. Drop, by spoonfuls, into a hot, well-oiled blazer and cook to a golden brown, turn, and brown the other side.

=Kornlet Oysters, No. 2.=

To one can of kornlet add a teaspoonful of soda, two well-beaten eggs, salt and pepper, and enough fine cracker crumbs to hold the mixture together. Drop from a spoon and cook as above.

RÉCHAUFFÉS AND OLLA-PODRIDA

"Take heed of enemies reconciled and meats twice cooked."

=Suggestions Concerning Réchauffés.=

Many of the dishes prepared in the chafing-dish are réchauffés of cold cooked meats, including game and fish. The composition of such dishes is called "the flower of cookery": but it is well to remember that we are dealing with a class of foods that are more digestible when cooked rare; also, that in these cases digestibility decreases in proportion to the length of time, as well as the number of times, the article has been cooked. The meat or fish composing such dishes should not come into direct contact with the source of heat; after being freed from skin, bone and fat, they should simply be heated in a hot sauce over hot water.

=Corned-Beef Hash.=

(_Spanish style._)

Chop together very fine the corned beef and potatoes and a half or a whole green pepper, after having removed the seeds and veins; put two tablespoonfuls of butter into the blazer (over hot water), add the chopped ingredients, and season to suit the taste, adding a little stock or milk to moisten; mix thoroughly, then cover, and stir occasionally until heated through. Put a few bits of butter here and there over the top, and serve when melted. Use an equal quantity of meat and potato, or twice as much potato as meat. Serve with olives, pickles or a light vegetable salad.

=Mock Terrapin.=

Have ready cooked half a calf's liver (it may be boiled or braised with vegetables). Cut it into small cubes. Put one-fourth a cup of butter into the blazer; when colored a little add the cubes of liver dredged with two tablespoonfuls of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprica and half a teaspoonful of salt. Stir and cook until the flour is blended with the butter; then add one cup of water or stock and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. As soon as the sauce boils, add one-fourth a cup of cream, two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Serve on toast, with quarters of lemon cut lengthwise.

_Note._--Cream may be used in the place of stock, and the yolks of two uncooked eggs instead of the cooked eggs.

=Spaghetti.=

(_Queen style._)

Cut cold cooked chicken or turkey and cooked tongue (enough to make one cup of meat) in dice; cut into inch-length pieces cooked spaghetti enough to make one cup. Put one cup and a half of thin cream into the blazer over hot water, and, when hot, add the meat and spaghetti. Beat the yolks of two eggs, add two tablespoonfuls of cream, and stir into the hot mixture; add, also, half a teaspoonful (scant) of salt and a dash of paprica. Stir constantly until the mixture thickens slightly, then serve at once with toast or crackers.

=Scrambled Ham and Eggs.=

Put a tablespoonful of butter in the blazer. Break six eggs into a bowl, add six tablespoonfuls of water, and beat until you can take up a spoonful. Add about a cup of fine-chopped ham and mix well. Pour into the blazer, and cook until creamy, stirring constantly.

=Chicken Klopps with Bechamel Sauce.=

INGREDIENTS.

2 cups of cold chicken, chopped. 1/4 a teaspoonful of celery pepper. 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. The unbeaten whites of 4 eggs. 1 teaspoonful of salt.

_Method._--When ready to cook, mix the ingredients together thoroughly and form into round balls. Place the balls carefully in water _just off the boil_, and, in about five minutes, or as soon as the egg seems poached, remove the klopps with a skimmer. Serve with

=BECHAMEL SAUCE.=

INGREDIENTS.

1/3 a cup of butter. 1/3 a cup of flour. 1 cup of cream. 1 cup of chicken stock. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt. A dash of paprica. The beaten yolks of 1 or 2 eggs.

_Method._--Make the sauce in the usual manner, but _do not let it boil after the yolks of the eggs are added_.

=Minced Ham à la Poulette.=

To each cup of fine-chopped ham add one tablespoonful of fine bread crumbs, softened with cream or milk. Season with salt and pepper. Heat thoroughly and spread on rounds of moist buttered toast. Place a poached _egg_ on each slice. Use two dishes.

=Epicurean Canapés.=

Heat a little butter in the blazer; sauté in it some narrow strips of bread and spread them thickly with the mixture used for epicurean sandwiches. Press a pitted olive in the centre of each and serve at once.

=Aberdeen Sandwiches.=

Heat one-fourth a cup of chopped cold tongue or ham, and half a cup of chopped veal or chicken, with half a cup of good sauce and two tablespoonfuls of curry paste (curry powder mixed with just enough water to form a paste). Let the mixture simmer five minutes, stirring constantly; then set aside to become cool. Have some bits of bread prepared as for sandwiches. Heat some clarified butter in the blazer, and in it sauté the bread a delicate brown, and drain on soft paper. Spread with the cold mixture, press two pieces together, and heat over hot water five or ten minutes. Serve hot.

=Calf's Head en Tortue.=

Peel a dozen mushrooms; break the caps in pieces and chop the stems very fine. Sauté in three tablespoonfuls of butter, adding, if desired, half an onion cut fine. Sprinkle in one-fourth a cup of flour, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprica, and, when the ingredients are well blended, add gradually one cup and a half of stock and one-fourth a cup of tomato juice. Let simmer a few moments, after the sauce boils; then add one pint of meat from a calf's head, cooked and cut in cubes.

=Woodcock Toast.=

Pound to a paste the freshly boiled livers of two fowls (ducks preferred), one teaspoonful of anchovy paste (or one anchovy may be pounded with the livers), half a teaspoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, one-fourth a teaspoonful of spiced pepper and the yolks of two raw eggs. Pass through a sieve, dilute with a little hot cream from a cup of cream heated over hot water, stir, and return to the rest of the cream. Stir until thickened, then pour over sippets or rounds of toast sautéd a golden brown in a little butter.

=Scotch Woodcock.=

Beat thoroughly three eggs and three teaspoonfuls of anchovy paste. Put this into the chafing-dish over hot water with three-fourths a cup of milk and stir until thick. Spread sippets of toast with butter and then with anchovy paste, and turn the woodcock upon them.

=Calves' Brains and Mushrooms à la Poulette.=

Sauté a clove of garlic, cut fine, in two tablespoonfuls of butter; add half a pound of mushrooms, peeled and broken in pieces, one-fourth a cup of flour, and sauté until well browned. Then add one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of mace and paprica, half a teaspoonful of salt and one cup and a half of stock, and cook five or six minutes. Then add the yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley and three calves' brains, cooked, and cut in dice. Serve in timbale cases, or upon croustades of bread.

=Beef Tea in Chafing-dish.=

Cut juicy round steak into pieces about two inches square. Heat the blazer very hot; heat also a wooden lemon-squeezer in hot water or in any way that is most convenient. Put the meat into the hot blazer, turn again and again with a fork, keeping the blazer very hot. When the bits of meat are heated throughout, squeeze them, one by one, with the lemon-squeezer, into a _hot_ bowl. Season with salt and serve at once.

=Salmi of Duck or Game.=

INGREDIENTS.

Pieces of game. 1/3 a cup, each, of butter and flour. 1 tablespoonful, each, of carrot and onion slices. 2 cups of rich brown stock, highly seasoned. 1/4 a cup of madeira. 1 cup of peas or flageolets, cooked.

_Method._--Cook the butter, onion and carrot in the blazer until well browned. Skim out the onion and carrot and add the flour, pepper and salt. Add the stock. As soon as the sauce is cooked, add the madeira, the pieces of game, and the peas or flageolets. Serve as soon as the meat is hot.

=Salmi of Duck, No. 2.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 pint of thin slices of duck. 2 tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour. 1 pint of brown stock. 1 tablespoonful of catsup. 10 or 15 drops of onion juice. 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice. 6 mushrooms, cut in pieces. 1 tablespoonful of currant jelly. Salt and pepper to taste.

_Method._--Brown the butter and make a sauce with the flour, seasoning and stock. Add the duck and mushrooms, simmer twenty minutes, add the currant jelly, and garnish with croutons.

=Sweetbreads Sautéd.=

Split parboiled sweetbreads into two pieces. Wipe dry, sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour; or season with salt and pepper, and egg-and-bread-crumb them. Sauté in the blazer in hot olive oil, or butter, until nicely browned on both sides. Serve with French peas or tomato sauce.

=Chicken with Mushrooms.=

Melt one-fourth a cup of butter in the blazer; add six mushroom caps, peeled and sliced, and cook slowly, with a teaspoonful of grated onion, about six minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir until smooth, then add one cup of cream, stock or milk, pepper and salt, and a few grains of mace. When the sauce boils, stir in one pint of chicken, finely chopped, and serve as soon as hot. Sweetbreads, lamb or veal may be served in the same manner.

=Chopped Beef.=

Chop half a pound of raw beef, from the tender part of the round, very fine. Rub the bottom of the hot blazer with butter, put in the meat with one teaspoonful of grated onion, stir, and cook four or five minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of butter, salt and pepper, and serve at once. This is good with bread, but better with baked potatoes. A pound of beef may be cooked at one time in a chafing-dish of good size, and the grated onion increased to suit the taste. The juice, of which there will be a large quantity, may be thickened with flour and butter creamed together; but it is better unthickened.

=Chicken Timbales.=

Pass the breast of a raw chicken through a meat-chopper five or six times; beat in, one at a time, the whites of two small eggs (the whites of the eggs are _not_ to be previously beaten), then beat in very gradually one cup of thick cream. Season with half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth a teaspoonful of white pepper. Turn the mixture into buttered moulds, set them in the blazer, and cook, surrounded with hot water to two-thirds their height and covered, about twenty minutes. The water should not boil; if, with the flame turned low, it still boils, set the blazer into the bath, in which the water may boil vigorously without harm to the timbales. Serve with

=BECHAMEL SAUCE.=

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and half a cup, each, of chicken stock and cream; add the beaten yolk of one egg and let stand over hot water five minutes. Or,

=MUSHROOM SAUCE.=

Make as above, substituting one-fourth a cup of mushroom liquor for a part of the chicken stock, and adding with the egg half a can of mushrooms, or a cup of fresh mushrooms sautéd in two tablespoonfuls of butter.

=Supreme of Chicken.=

Chop fine the breast of a raw chicken. Beat one egg, add the chicken, and continue beating until smooth; then add three eggs, one at a time, beating each egg in thoroughly. Add a generous teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a dash of black pepper and one pint of cream. Butter twelve small moulds and ornament them with truffles. Fill with the chicken mixture, cover with buttered paper, and steam twenty minutes. Or, put in a pan of boiling water and cook in a moderate oven till the centres are firm. Serve with mushroom or bechamel sauce. These can be cooked and left in the moulds and then reheated. It will take about fifteen minutes to reheat.

=Egg Timbales.=

Beat six eggs without separating, add a scant teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, twenty drops of onion juice and one cup and a half of rich milk. Stir till well mixed. Butter small-sized timbale moulds and fill two-thirds full with the mixture. Place moulds in the blazer, pour boiling water about them three-fourths to the tops of the moulds, and let cook about twenty minutes, or till the centres are firm; turn out of the moulds on to a warm platter, and pour about them a thin bread sauce.

=BREAD SAUCE.=

To one pint of milk add half a cup of fine, stale bread crumbs, a small onion with six cloves stuck in it, half a teaspoonful of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Cook in the double boiler for about an hour; stir occasionally. Remove the onion, beat well, and add one tablespoonful of butter. Put one tablespoonful of butter over the fire in a small saucepan; when hot add two-thirds a cup of rather coarse bread crumbs; stir over a hot fire till they are brown and crisp. Sprinkle over the timbales and sauce. Add a sprig of parsley to the top of each timbale.

=Pan-Broiling.=

Chops, birds, venison, hamburg, sirloin and other steaks, even spring chickens, may be cooked successfully in the chafing-dish; but they are not the dishes upon which an amateur should begin his experiments. Heat the blazer very hot, brush over the surface with a brush dipped in olive oil (or use a butter-ball and a fork), lay in the article to be cooked, sear upon one side, turn and sear upon the other; repeat, turning and cooking until done to taste; five minutes will suffice for small lamb chops. Serve with

=Maître d'Hôtel Butter.=

Beat four tablespoonfuls of butter to a cream; add half a teaspoonful of salt and a few grains of pepper, also one tablespoonful of parsley, chopped very fine, and one tablespoonful of lemon juice, very slowly.

=Fillets of Beef, Mushroom Sauce.=

Have half a dozen slices cut crosswise from a neatly trimmed fillet of beef. The slices may be cut of any thickness desired, but from half to three-fourths an inch is preferable for chafing-dish cookery. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a hot blazer; lay in the meat, and cook four or five minutes, turning every ten seconds. The heat should be well maintained throughout the cooking. Season with salt when half cooked. In another blazer make a cup of brown sauce; brown two tablespoonfuls of butter, add four tablespoonfuls of flour, and, when this is well browned, add half a cup of very rich brown stock and half a cup of liquid from the mushroom can. Season to taste with Kitchen Bouquet, salt, and a few drops of tabasco sauce, then add half a bottle of mushrooms, cut in halves. Serve as soon as the mushrooms are hot.

=Fillets of Lamb, Cherry Sauce.=

For the fillets use either the fillet from the loin or the top of a "best end of a loin" boned. Cut the meat in slices or rounds, and sauté in hot butter in the blazer. Season with salt and pepper and pour into the blazer half a cup of maraschino cherries with half a cup of the liquid from the bottle. Candied cherries that have stood half an hour in half a cup of boiling water, on the back of the range, and then mixed with half a cup of sherry wine, may be used in place of the maraschino cherries. This sauce may also be used with fillets of beef or young turkey.

=Ham Timbales.=

INGREDIENTS.

1-1/2 cups of milk or thin cream. 1 cup of cold, cooked ham, chopped fine. 1/4 a cup of fine bread crumbs. The yolks of 2 "hard-boiled" eggs. Two raw eggs. A few drops of tabasco sauce. 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt.

Take the bread crumbs from the centre of a stale loaf. Pass the cooked yolks of eggs through a sieve. Add the ham, crumbs, yolks, salt and tabasco to the raw eggs beaten and mixed with the milk. When thoroughly mixed turn into timbale moulds very carefully buttered. Fit papers into the bottoms of the moulds before buttering. Set these in the blazer, surround with hot water, letting it come half way to the top of the moulds. Heat the water to the boiling-point, then set the blazer into the hot-water pan partly filled with boiling water, cover and cook until the mixture is firm in the centre. Serve, turned from the moulds, with cream or tomato sauce, flavored with onion, or with peas heated in a cream sauce.

=Fillets of Chicken.=

(_Chafing-dish Style._)

Remove the breast from a plump and tender chicken and separate from the bone and skin. Detach the small fillets, then cut each side into two or three lengthwise slices the size of the small fillets. Keep covered closely until ready to cook. Heat the blazer very hot, butter slightly, and in it lay the fillets and sprinkle with the juice of half a lemon, salt and white pepper; add, also, one-third a cup of chicken stock and a tablespoonful of sherry. Cover and let cook about ten minutes. In the meantime prepare a sauce in a second chafing-dish, using two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, a dash of salt and pepper, and one cup of stock, in making which a small piece of ham or bacon was used. Add also a tablespoonful of mushroom or tomato catsup and a tablespoonful of sherry wine.

=Mutton Réchauffé.=

(_Creole Style._)

Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer and sauté in this a tablespoonful, each, of green pepper and onion, chopped fine; add three tablespoonfuls of flour and half a teaspoonful of salt, and stir and cook until frothy; then add, gradually, one cup of brown stock and half a cup of tomato purée (cooked tomato strained). Let boil two or three minutes, then set over hot water and stir in one cup of cold roast mutton cut in strips or cubes, and half a cup of cooked macaroni, blanched and drained. Two or three mushrooms or a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup improves this dish.

=Baba or Wine Cake.=

This cake may be made some days in advance, and when wished reheated in a sauce made in the chafing-dish. Baba is baked in a large mould and cut in slices, or in individual cylindrical or baba moulds.

=BABA.=

INGREDIENTS.

1 lb. of flour. 1 cake of compressed yeast. 1/2 a cup of water. 10 oz. of butter (1-1/4 cups). 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt. 1/2 a cup of sugar. 8 eggs. 1/2 a cup of currants, sultanas or sliced citron.

Make a sponge of the yeast, softened in the water, and flour to knead. Knead the little ball of dough until elastic, and put into a small saucepan of lukewarm water. Meanwhile add the butter, sugar, salt and three of the eggs to the rest of the flour, and beat with the hand until all are evenly blended; then add the rest of the eggs, one after another. When the ball of dough rises to the top of the water and is light, remove from the water with a skimmer and beat it into the egg paste; beat for some minutes, then beat in the fruit. Turn the mixture into the mould or moulds, leaving room for the cake to double in bulk. Let rise in a temperature of 68° F. When nearly doubled in bulk, bake from twenty to fifty minutes.

=SAUCE FOR BABA.=

Let two cups of sugar and one cup of water boil in the blazer about six minutes, then add one-fourth a cup, or more, of maraschino, rum or sherry wine. Lay the baba, sliced or in individual forms, into the hot syrup and let stand a few minutes, basting the cake with the syrup. When hot, serve with or without whipped cream. Half a cup of apricot or quince marmalade may be added with the wine.

=Fig Toast.=

(See cut facing page 198.)

Wash carefully and cook in boiling water half a pound of pulled figs until tender; add one fourth a cup of sugar and the grated rind and juice of half a lemon. Cook until the syrup is well reduced. Cut the crust from a thick slice of bread and sauté to a golden brown, first on one side, then on the other, in two tablespoonfuls of hot butter. Drain the bread on soft paper; then heap the figs upon it, cover with two-thirds a cup of thick cream and a scant fourth a cup of sugar, beaten until stiff. Serve at once. Prunes, apricots, peaches, pears, or strawberry preserves, may be prepared in the same manner. If preserves be used, omit the sugar from the cream. Sponge cake may be used in the place of bread.

=Pineapple Sponge.=

Heat one pint of grated pineapple over hot water, sprinkle into it one-third a cup of fine tapioca (a quick-cooking kind), mixed with two-thirds a cup of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of salt; when the tapioca is transparent, add the juice of a lemon, and fold in the whites of two eggs, beaten until dry. Serve with cream and sugar.

=Tapioca-and-Banana Sponge.=

Sprinkle half a cup of tapioca and two-thirds a cup of sugar into one pint of boiling water; add half a teaspoonful of salt and cook over hot water, stirring occasionally. When the tapioca is transparent, add the juice of two lemons, and fold in the whites of two eggs, beaten until dry. Serve spread over sliced bananas, with cream and sugar, or with a cold boiled custard, previously made. This dish may be prepared with canned peaches, apricots or quinces, using the juice of the fruit instead of water.

INDEX.

Aberdeen Sandwiches, 205 Aigrettes, Cheese, 109 Almond-and-Peach Salad, 94 Almonds and Walnuts, To Blanch, 12 Anchovy Salad, 74 Anchovy Toast, 175 " " with Eggs, 175 " " " Spinach, 176 Anchovies with Olives, 176 Apple,-Celery-and-Walnut Salad, 92 Artichoke Salad, 45 " -and-Tomato Salad, 44 Artichokes à la Bordelaise, 197 Asparagus with Eggs, 193 " Peas, 196 " Salad, 46 " Salad, Egg Garnish, 47 " -and-Cauliflower Salad, 46 " " Salmon Salad, 46 " Tips in Turnips, 46 Aspic Jelly from Bouillon Capsules, etc., 100 Aspic Jelly, Chicken Stock for, 99 " " , Consommé for, 98 " " for Garnishing, 97 " " Oysters in, 65 " " Recipe for, 97 " " for Sandwiches, 127, 128

Baba, 216 Baba, Sauce for, 216 Bacon Salad, 84 Bacon Sauce, 27 Baking Powder Biscuit, 139 Balls, Cheese, 107 Bamboo Sprouts, Shrimp-and-Lettuce Salad, 74 Banana-and-Orange Salad, 93 Banana-and-Tapioca Sponge, 218 Bar-le-Duc-and-Cheese Sandwiches, 135 Bean, White, Salad, 32 Bechamel Sauce, 205, 210 Beef, Chopped, 209 " , Fillets of, 213 " Hash, Corned, 202 " Sandwiches, Corned, 119 Beef Tea in Chafing-Dish, 207 Beet-and-Cream Cheese Sandwiches, 125 Beets and Brussels Sprouts, Salad of, 35 Beets, Stuffed, 34 Bernaise Sauce, 28 Beverages with Sandwiches, 118 Biscuit, Baking Powder, 139 " , Sandwich, 139 Bluefish Salad, 60, 75 Boiled Dressing for Chicken Salad, 26 Boiled Salad Dressing, 26 Boston Brown Bread, 138 Boudins-de-Saumon Salad, 61 Bread, Boston Brown, 138 " , Entire Wheat, 137 " , Pulled, 139 " , Rice, 138 " , Wheat, Two Loaves of, 137 " , for Sandwiches, 116 " , To Give Glossy Crust, 140 Brook Trout Salad, 55 " " " in Aspic, 55

Cabbage and Cauliflower, To Clean, 14 Calf's Head en Tortue, 206 Canapés, Egg, 193 " , Epicurean, 205 " , Oyster, 168 Cauliflower-and-Asparagus Salad, 46 Cauliflower Salad, Egg Garnish, 49 Caviare Sandwich Rolls, 120 Celery, Apple-and-Nut Salad, 92 " -and-Chestnut Salad, 92 Celery-and-Nut in Border, 43 Celery-and-Oyster Salad, 66 Celery Sandwiches, 120 Celery, To Fringe, 15 " , To Keep, 16 Ceylon Cocoa, 145 Chafing-Dish Appointments, 153 Chafing-Dish Recipes: Aberdeen Sandwiches, 205 Anchovy Toast, 175 " " with Eggs, 175 " " " Spinach, 176 Anchovies with Olives, 176 Artichokes à la Bordelaise, 197 Asparagus Peas, 196 Baba on Wine Cake, 216 Bechamel Sauce, 210 Beef Tea in Chafing-Dish, 207 Bread Sauce, 211 Buttered Lobster, 169 Calf's Head en Tortue, 206 Calves' Brains and Mushrooms, Poulette, 207 Canned Peas with Egg, 198 Cheese Fondue, 186 Chicken Klopps with Bechamel Sauce, 204 Chicken Timbales, 210 Chicken with Mushrooms, 209 Chopped Beef, 209 Chops, etc. Pan Broiled, 212 Clams à la Newburgh, 170 Corned Beef Hash, 202 Crabs à la Creole, 174 Creamed Dishes, 166 Creamed Mushrooms, 197 Creamed Peas, 179 Curried Eggs, 191 Curried Oysters, 164 Curried " No. 2, 165 Curried Sardines, 177 Curried Vegetables, 199 Deviled Dishes, 166 Deviled Crabs, 173 Egg Canapés, 193 Egg Timbales, 211 Egg à la Italienne, 190 Eggs à la Parisienne, 190 Eggs, Creole Style, 192 Eggs, Italian Style, 194 Eggs and Mushrooms à la Dauphine, 189 Eggs with Asparagus, 193 " " Spinach, 194 English Monkey, 187 Epicurean Canapés, 205 Escalloped Oysters, 168 Fig Toast, 217 Fillets of Beef, Mushroom Sauce, 213 Fillets of Lamb, Cherry Sauce, 213 Fresh Mushrooms and Sweetbreads, 196 Fricassee of Oysters, 165 Golden Buck, 185 Halibut Rarebit, 184 Ham Timbales, 214 Hawaiian Lobster Curry, 171 Kornlet Oysters, 201 " " No. 2, 201 Lobster à la Bechamel, 171 Lobster à la Bordelaise, 170 Lobster à la Newburgh, 169 Lobster à la Poulette, 172 Macaroni à la Italienne, 195 Maître d'Hôtel Butter, 212 Mock Terrapin, 203 Minced Ham à la Poulette, 205 Moulded Halibut with Creamed Peas, 178 Mushroom Cromeskies, 197 Mushrooms and Macaroni, 198 Mushroom Sauce, 210 Mutton Réchauffé, Creole Style, 215 Oyster Canapés, 168 Oyster Crabs, 174 Oyster Crabs à la Hollandaise, 172 Oyster Cromeskies, 167 Oyster Rarebit, 185 Oysters, 163 Oysters, No. 2, 163 Oysters à la D'Uxelles, 164 Oysters Sauté, 168 Panned Oysters, 167 " " Maître d'Hôtel, 167 Pineapple Sponge, 217 Plain Lobster, 170 Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel, 199 Puff Balls, Sautéd, 198 Purée of Fish, 179 Réchauffé of Fish, 180 " " " No. 2, 181 Salmi of Duck or Game, 208 Salmi of Duck No. 2, 208 Salt Codfish in Cream Sauce, 180 Salt Codfish with Tomato Sauce, 179 Sardine Canapés, 177 Sardine Rarebit, 185 Sardines, French Fashion, 177 Sardines on Toast, 181 Scotch Woodcock, 190, 207 Scrambled Eggs à la Union Club, 188 Scrambled Eggs with Cheese, 188 Scrambled Eggs with Dried Beef, 189 Scrambled Eggs with Oysters, 166 Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Salmon, 188 Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes, 189 Scrambled Ham and Eggs, 204 Shirred Eggs, 192 Shrimps à la Poulette, 175 Shrimps with Peas, 175 Spaghetti, Queen Style, 203 String Beans à la Lyonnaise, 200 Supreme of Chicken, 211 Sweetbreads, Sautéd, 209 Tapioca and Banana Sponge, 218 Tomato Sandwich, 200 Welsh Rarebit, 183 " " No. 2, 183 " " with Ale, 184 White Hashed Potatoes, 199 Woodcock Toast, 206 Yorkshire Rarebit, 186 Chafing-Dishes, Past and Present, 151 Chaud-froid Sauce, White, 101 Cheese Aigrettes, 109 " d'Artois, 109 " Balls, 107 " -and-Cowslip Salad, 49 " Croquettes, 108 " Custard, 105 " Fondue, 186 " Fritters, 110 " Ramequins, 106 " Sandwiches with Bar-le-Duc, 135 " Sandwiches with Beets, 125 " " " Nuts, 122 " with Scrambled Eggs, 188 " Soufflé, 105 " Soufflés, Iced, 108 " Straws, 106 Cheese with Vegetable Macedoine, 110 Cherry Salad, 91 Cherry Sauce, 213 Cherry,-Strawberry-and-Peach Salad, 95 Chestnuts-and-Celery Salad, 92 Chestnuts, To Shell and Blanch, 12 Chicken, Fillets of, 214 " Klopps, 204 " and Mushrooms, 209 " Rolls, 123 " Salad, 78 " " , Boiled Dressing for, 26 " " , French, 78 " " with Mushrooms, 79 " " Sandwiches, 127 " -and-Nut Sandwiches, 127 " Stock for Aspic Jelly, 99 " Timbales, 210 Chiffonade Salad, 94 Chocolate, Plain, 145 " , Rich, 144 " , Spanish, 148 Chopped Beef, 209 Chou Paste, 140 Clams à la Newburgh, 170 Claret Cup, 148 " Dressing, 22 " Jelly, 134 Club Sandwiches, 129 Cocoa, Ceylon, 145 " , Plain, 145 " , Sultana, 145 Coffee, Boiled, 143 " , Filtered, 143 Cole Slaw, Dressing for, 27 Consommé for Aspic Jelly, 98 Cooked Vegetable Salad, 37 Corned Beef Hash, 202 " " Sandwiches, 119 Country Salad, 87 Cowslip-and-Cheese Salad, 49 Crab Toast, Mock, 186 Crabs à la Creole, 174 " " Hollandaise, 172 " Deviled, 173 " Oyster, 174 Creamed Dishes, 166 " Peas, 179 " Mushrooms, 197 Cream Salad Dressing, 27 Cress,-Cucumber-and-Tomato Salad, 41 Cress-and-Egg Sandwiches, 122 Cress, To Clean, 14 Cromeskies, Mushroom, 197 " , Oyster, 167 Croquettes, Cheese, 108 Cucumber Salad, 36 " " for Fish, 36 " " with Shad Roe, 61 " " , Stuffed, 49 Cupid's Butter Sandwiches, 135 Currant-and-Cheese Sandwiches, 135 Curry, Hawaiian Lobster, 171 Curried Eggs, 191 " Oysters, 164 " " No. 2, 165 " Sardines, 177 " Vegetables, 199 Custard, Cheese, 105 " , Royal, for Aspic, 11

Date-and-Ginger Sandwiches, 132 d'Artois, Cheese, 109 Deviled Dishes, 166 Dressing, Boiled, 26 " Boiled, for Chicken Salad, 26 " , Claret, 22 " , for Cole Slaw, 27 " , Cream Salad, 27 " , French, 21 " , " in quantity, 22 " , for Fruit Salad, 89 " , Horseradish, 40 " , Mayonnaise, 22 " , Composition, 8 Dressings, Boiled and Cream, 9 Dried Beef with Eggs, 189 Duck-and-Olive Salad, 83 " " Orange " , 83 Duck, Salmi of, 208 Duck or Game, Salmi of, 208

Easter Salad, 86 Egg Canapés, 193 Egg and Canned Peas, 198 Egg Lemonade, 146 Egg-and-Cress Sandwiches, 122 Egg-and-Ham Sandwiches, 119 " " Spinach Sandwiches, 122 " " " Salad, 86 Eggs with Anchovy Toast, 175 Eggs with Asparagus, 193 " to Boil for Garnishing, 11 Eggs, Creole Style, 192 " Curried, 191 " Italienne, 190, 194 " and Mushrooms, Dauphine, 189 " Parisienne, 190 " Scrambled with Cheese, 188 " Scrambled with Dried Beef, 189 " Scrambled with Oysters, 166 " Scrambled with Smoked Salmon, 188 " Scrambled with Tomatoes, 189 " Scrambled à la Union Club, 188 " with Spinach, 194 Eggs, Whites of, To Poach, 11 Endive, To Clean, 13 Endive Salad, 30 English Monkey, 187 Entire Wheat Bread, 137 Epicurean Canapés, 205 " Sandwiches, 123 Escalloped Oysters, 168

Fig-and-Nut Salad, 93 Fig Sandwiches, 131 Fig Toast, 217 Fillets of Beef, Mushroom Sauce, 213 " " Chicken, 214 " " Halibut with Cole Slaw, 58 " " " " Salad, 57 " " Lamb, Cherry Sauce, 213 Filling for Sandwiches, 116 Filtered Coffee, 143 Fish, Purée of, 179 " , Réchauffé of, 180 Fish Réchauffé, No. 2, 181 Fish Salad in Aspic, 59 Fish-and-Mushroom Salad, 65 Fish, Salt Cod in Cream Sauce, 180 " " " " Tomato " 179 Five-o'clock Tea, 144 Flavoring, 160 Fondue, Cheese, 186 French Dressing, Recipes for, 21 " " in quantity, 22 French Fruit Sandwiches, 131 Fresh Mushrooms and Sweetbreads, 196 Fricassee of Oysters, 165 Fritters, Cheese, 110 Fruit Jelly for Sandwiches, 134 Fruit Punch, 146 " Salad, 89, 90, 91 " " , Dressing for, 89 " " , When to Serve, 10 Fruit-and-Nut Salad, 90

Game, Salmi of, 208 Gherkins, To Cut for Garnish, 15 Ginger and Date Sandwiches, 132 Gnochi à la Romaine, 107 Golden Buck, 185 Grapefruit Salad, 93 Grapefruit, Pineapple,-and-Pimento Salad, 95 Green Butter Sandwiches, 126 Green Pea Salad, 47 " " -and-Potato Salad, 47

Halibut, Fillets of, in Aspic, 57 " , Moulded, and Creamed Peas, 178 " Rarebit, 184 Halibut Salad, 55, 56 " " for Fish Course, 64 Halibut-and-Cucumber Salad, 56 Halibut Sandwiches with Aspic, 128 " and Lettuce Sandwiches, 124 Ham, Minced, Poulette Style, 205 Ham Salad, 83 Ham-and-Egg Sandwiches, 119 " " Eggs Scrambled, 204 Ham-and-Tongue Sandwiches, 119 Ham Timbales, 214 Harlequin Sandwiches, 125 Hash, Corned Beef, 202 Herbs, How to Chop, 13 Hollandaise Sauce, 28, 173 Home-Made Soda-Water, 147 Honey Sandwiches, 132, 136 How to Blanch Walnuts and Almonds, 12 " " " and Cook Vegetables, 14 " " Boil Eggs Hard, 11 " " Boil Fish and Meat, 140 " " Chop Fresh Herbs, 13 " " Clean Lettuce, Endive, Cress, etc., 13 " " Cook Sweetbreads and Brains, 16 " " Cut Radishes for a Garnish, 13 " " Cut Gherkins for a Garnish, 15 " " Fringe Celery, 15 " " Keep Celery, Cress, Lettuce, etc., 16 " " Make Nasturtium and Tarragon Vinegar, 17 " " Make Royal Custard, 11 " " " Sauces, 158 " " Pickle Nasturtium Seeds, 16 " " Poach Whites of Eggs, 11 " " Render Vegetables Crisp, 14 " " Shell and Blanch Chestnuts, 12 " " Shred Romaine, etc., 15 " " Use Garlic or Onion in Salads, 12 Hunter's Sandwich, 136

Individual Soufflés of Cheese, 108 Ingredients for One Cup of Sauce, 159 " " " Pint of Sauce, 160 Italian Salad, 84

Jelly, Aspic, from Bouillon Capsules, 100 " , " , Chicken Stock for, 99 " , " , to Chop, 98 " , " , Consommé for, 98 " , " for Garnishing, 97 " , " , Oysters in, 65 " , " , Recipe for, 97 " , " , for Sandwiches, 127 " , Claret, for Sandwiches, 134 " , Fruit, " " , 134 " , Mayonnaise, 25 " , Tomato, 43 " , " with Salad, 43, 44

Klopps, Chicken, 204 Kornlet Oysters, 201

Lamb, Fillets of, 213 Lemonade, Egg, 146 Lentil Salad, 31 Lettuce, How to Clean, 13 " " Shred, 15 " Salad, 29 Livournaise Sauce, 25 Lobster à la Bechamel, 171 " " Bordelaise, 170 " Buttered, 169 " Curry, Hawaiian, 171 " Fingers, 124 Lobster Mousseline Salad, 73 Lobster à la Newburgh, 169 " Plain, 170 " à la Poulette, 172 Lobster Salad, 71 " " No. 2, No. 3, 71 " " in Aspic, 72 Lobster in Aspic Sandwiches, 128 Lobster and Mushroom Sandwiches, 121

Macaroni à la Italienne, 195 Macaroni and Mushrooms, 198 Macedoine, Cheese and Vegetable, 110 Macedoine Salad, 35 Mackerel Salad, 60 " Salt, Salad, 61 Maître d'Hôtel Butter, 212 " " Potatoes, 199 Marguerite Salad, 86 Mayonnaise, Curdled, 24 " , Jelly, 25 " , Making in Quantity, 23 " , Recipe for, 22 " , Red, 24 " , Sardine, 25 Measuring, 160 Meat and Fish, Potted, 141 Meats, Fresh, How to Boil, 140 " , Salted, " " 140 Minced Ham, Poulette, 205 Miroton of Fish and Potato, 58 Mock Crab Toast, 186 Mock Terrapin, 203 Mosaic Sandwiches, 127 Moulded Salmon Salad, 75 Mousse de Poulet Salad, 81, 82 Mushroom Cromeskies, 197 Mushroom Salad with Chicken Medallions, 80 " and Fish Salad, 65 " " Lobster Sandwiches, 121 " Sauce, 210 Mushrooms and Chicken, 209 " Creamed, 197 " and Eggs Dauphine, 189 " " Sweetbreads, 196 Mutton Réchauffé, 215

Nasturtium Folds, 125 Nasturtium Seeds, To Pickle, 16 Nut,-Apple-and-Celery Salad, 92 Nut-and-Celery Salad, 92 Nut-and-Cheese Sandwiches, 122 Nut-and-Chicken " 122 Nut-and-Fig Salad, 93 " " Fruit " 90 " , Litchi,-and-Orange Salad, 88 " -and-Orange Salad, 92

Oil, Value of, 8 Onion and Garlic, How to Use, 12 Orange-and-Banana Salad, 93 " " Litchi Nut Salad, 88 " " Walnut Salad, 92 Oyster Canapés, 168 " Cromeskies, 167 " Rarebit, 185 " -and-Celery Salad, 66 " -and-Sweetbread Salad, 67 Oysters in Aspic, 65 Oysters in Chafing-Dish, 163 " Creamed, 166 " Curried, 164, 165 " Deviled, 166 " à la D'Uxelles, 164 " Escalloped, 168 " , Fricassee of, 165 " , Kornlet, 201 " , Panned, 167 " , " Maître d'Hôtel, 167 " Sauté, 168 " with Scrambled-Eggs, 166

Pan-Broiling, 212 Panned Oysters, 167 Paste, Chou, 140 Pastry Bag and Tubes, To Decorated Salads, 18 Pâté-de-Foie-Gras in Aspic, 85 " " " Sandwiches, 122 Peach-and-Almond Salad, 94 Peach Salad, 95 Peach,-Strawberry-and-Cherry Salad, 95 Peanut Sandwiches, 125, 126 Peas, Creamed, 179 " with Egg, 198 Pineapple-and-Pimento Salad, 95 Pineapple Sandwiches, 133 Pineapple Sponge, 217 Plain Chocolate, 145 Plain Cocoa, 145 Potato Salad, 32, 33 " " , German Style, 37 " " with Mayonnaise, 50 " -and-Nasturtium Salad, 34 Potatoes, Maître d'Hôtel, 199 " , White Hashed, 199 Potted Meats and Fish, 141 Puff Balls, Sautéd, 198 Puff Paste Sandwiches, 133 Pulled Bread, 139 Punch, Fruit, 146 " à la Nantes, 146

Radishes, To Cut for Garnish, 13 Ramequins, Cheese, 106 Rarebit, Halibut, 184 " , Oyster, 185 " , Sardine, 185 " , Welsh, 183 " , " No. 2, 183 " , " With Ale, 184 " , Yorkshire, 186 Réchauffé of Fish, 180, 181 " " Mutton, 215 Réchauffés, Concerning, 202 Rice Bread, 138 Rich Chocolate, 144 Rolls, Salad, 138 Rolls, Wedding Sandwich, 129 Romaine, To Shred, 15 Rose Leaf Sandwiches, 132 Royal Custard for Garnishing, 11 Russian Salad, 62 " Vegetable Salad, 48 " Sandwiches, 121

Salad Dressing, Boiled, 26 Salad Dressing, Cream, 27 " Dressings, Use of, 7 " , Fruit, When to Serve, 10 " Making, Important Points in, 9 " Rolls, 138 Salad: " Anchovy, 74 " Apple,-Celery-and-English-Walnut, 92 " Artichoke, 45 " Asparagus, 47 " Asparagus and Salmon, 46 " Asparagus and Cauliflower, 46 " Bacon, 84 " Bluefish, 75 " Boudins-de-Saumon, 61 " Brook Trout, 55 " Brook Trout in Aspic, 55 " Brussels Sprouts and Beet, 35 " Cauliflower, 39 " Cauliflower, Egg Garnish, 49 " Celery-and-Chestnut, 92 " Celery-and-Nut, 43 " Cherry, 91 " Chicken, 78 " Chicken-and-Fresh Mushroom, 79 " Chicken, No. 3, 79 " Chicken, No. 4, 79 " Chiffonade, 94 " Combination, A Few, 30 " Cooked Vegetable Salad, 37 " Country, 87 " Cowslip-and-Cream Cheese, 49 " Cress,-Cucumber-and-Tomato, 41 " Cucumber, 36 " Cucumber for Fish Course, 36 " Duck-and-Olive, 83 " Duck-and-Orange, 83 " Easter, 86-87 " Endive, 30 " Endives-Tomato-and-Green-String-Bean, 36 " Fig-and-Nut, 93 " Fillets of Halibut in Aspic, 57 " Fillets of Halibut with Cole Slaw, 58 " Fish Moulded in Aspic, 59, 60 " French Chicken, 78 " Fruit, 89, 91 " Fruit-and-Nut, 90, 91 " Grapefruit, 93 " Grapefruit,-Pineapple-and-Pimento, 95 " Green-Pea, 47 " Green-Pea-and-Potato, 47 " Green and White, 88 " Halibut, 55, 56 " Halibut-and-Cucumber, 56 " Halibut (for Fish Course), 64 " Ham, 83 " Italian, 84 " Lentil, 31 " Lettuce, 29 " Lettuce,-Bamboo-Sprouts-and-Shrimps, 74 " Lobster, 71 " Lobster, No. 2, 71 " Lobster, No. 3, 71 " Lobster in Ring of Aspic, 72 " Macedoine, 35 " Macedoine of Vegetable, 47 " Mackerel or Bluefish, 60 " Marguerite, 86 " Miroton of Fish-and-Potato, 58 " Mousse-de-Poulet, 81, 82 " Moulded Salmon Salad, 75 " Mousseline of Lobster, 75 " Mushroom with Medallions of Chicken, 80 " Orange-and-Litchi Nut, 88 " Orange-and-Walnut, 92 " Orange-and-Banana, 93 " Oysters in Aspic, 65 " Oyster-and-Celery, 66 " Oyster-and-Sweetbread, 67 " Pâté de Foie Gras in Aspic, 85 " Peach, 15 " Peach-and-Almond, 94 " Peach,-Strawberry-and-Cherry, 95 " Potato, 32, 33 " Potato-and-Nasturtium, 34 " Potato, German Style, 37 " Potato with Mayonnaise, 50 " Russian, 62 " Russian Vegetable, 48 " Salmon, 63 " Salt Mackerel, 61 " Sardine, 69 " Sardine, No. 2, 69 " Sardine-and-Egg, 70 " Scallop, 68 " Shad-Roe-and-Cucumber, 61 " Shells of Fish-and-Mushrooms, 65 " Shrimp, 68 " Shrimp in Cucumber Boats, 67 " Shrimp with Aspic Border, 67 " Spanish, 63 " Spinach-and-Egg, 86 " Spinach-and-Tongue, 85 " Stuffed Cucumber, 49 " Stuffed Beet, 34 " Stuffed Tomato, 40 " Sweetbread-and-Cucumber, 77 " Tomato-and-Artichoke, 44 " Tomato-and-Onion, 36 " Tomato-and-Sweetbread, 40 " Tomato, Horseradish Dressing, 40 " Tomato Jelly, No. 2, 43 " Tomato Jelly with String Beans, 44 " Tomatoes Farces à l'Aspic, 42 " Tomatoes Stuffed with Nuts and Celery, 39 " Tomatoes Stuffed with Cucumber, 41 " Tomatoes Stuffed with Jelly, 42 " Turkey-and-Chestnut, 83 " Turnip with Asparagus Tips, 46 " Turquoise, 94 " White Bean, 32 Salads, Arrangement of, 8 Salads, Decorating with Bag and Tubes, 18 Salads, Dressing of, 6 " , Introduction to Subject, 3 Salads, when Served with French Dressing, etc., 9 " , Serving with Cheese, 10 Salmi of Duck or Game, 208 Salmon Salad, 63 " " , Moulded, 75 Salmon-and-Asparagus Salad, 46 Sandwiches: Aberdeen, 205 " Beet-and-Cream-Cheese, 125 " Beverages Served with, 118 " Bread for, 116 " Caviare Roll, 120 " Celery, 20 " Cheese-and-Bar-le-Duc, 135 " Cheese- " -English-Walnut, 122 " Chicken-and-Nut, 127 " Chicken Roll, 123 " Chicken Salad, 127 " Club, 129 " Corned Beef, 119 " Cress-and-Egg, 122 " Cupid's Butter, 135 " Date-and-Ginger, 132 " Egg-and-Spinach, 122 " Epicurean, 123 " Fig, 131 " Filling for, 116 " French Fruit, 131 " Fruit or Claret Jelly, 134 " Fruit with Whipped Cream, 133 " Green Butter, 126 " Halibut with Aspic Jelly, 128 " Halibut-and-Lettuce, 124 " Ham-and-Egg, 119 " " " Tongue, 119 " Harlequin, 125 " Honey, 132 " Hunters', 136 " Lobster with Aspic, 128 " Lobster Fingers, 124 " Milwaukee, The, 129 " Mosaic, 127 " Mushroom-and-Lobster, 121 " Nasturtium Fold, 125 " Pâté de Foie Gras (Imitation), 122 " Peanut, 125, 126 " Pineapple, 133 " Puff Paste, 133 " Rose Leaf, 132 " Russian, 121 " Sardine, 120 " Shad-Roe-and-Butter, 126 " Tomato, 200 " Tongue-and-Veal, 120 " Tower of Babel, 124 " Violet, 132 " Wedding Sandwich Roll, 129 " Whipped Cream, 133 Sardine Canapés, 177 Sardine-and-Egg Salad, 70 Sardine Mayonnaise, 25 " Rarebit, 185 " Salad, 69 " Sandwiches, 120 Sardines, Curried, 177 " , French Fashion, 177 " on Toast, 181 Sauce for Baba, 216 Sauce, Bacon, 27 " , Bechamel, 205, 210 " , Bernaise, 28 " , Bread, 211 " , Chaud-froid, 101 " , Cherry, 213 " , Hollandaise, 28, 173 " , Ingredients for One cup, 159 " , " " " pint, 160 " , Livournaise, 25 " , Mayonnaise, 22 " , Mushroom, 210 " , Tartare, 25 " , Tomato, 179 Sauces, How to Make, 158 " , Stock for use in, 99 Scallop Salad, 68 Scotch Woodcock, 190, 207 Scrambled Eggs with Cheese, 188 " " " Dried Beef, 189 " " " Ham, 204 " " " Oysters, 166 " " " Smoked Salmon, 188 " " " Tomatoes, 189 " " à la Union Club, 188 Shad-Roe-and-Butter Sandwiches, 126 Shad-Roe-and-Cucumber Salad, 61 Shells of Fish and Mushrooms, 65 Shirred Eggs, 192 Shrimp Salad, 68 " " Aspic Border, 67 " " , Cucumber Boat, 67 " , Bamboo-and-Lettuce Salad, 74 Shrimps with Peas, 175 " à la Poulette, 175 Smoked Salmon with Eggs, 188 Soda-Water, Home-Made, 147 Soufflé, Cheese, 105 Soufflés, " Iced, 108 Spaghetti, Queen Style, 203 Spanish Chocolate, 148 Spanish Salad, 63 Spinach-and-Egg Salad, 86 " with Eggs, 194 " -and-Tongue Salad, 85 Sponge, Pineapple, 217 " , Tapioca and Banana, 218 Stock, Chicken, for Aspic, 99 Stock, Fish, 100 " for Sauces, 99 Straws, Cheese, 106 Strawberry,-Peach-and-Cherry Salad, 95 String Beans, Lyonnaise, 200 Sultana Cocoa, 145 Sweetbread-and-Cucumber Salad, 77 Sweetbreads-and-Brains, To Cook, 16 " " Mushrooms, 196 " Sautéd, 209

Tapioca-and-Banana Sponge, 218 Tartare Sauce, 25 Tea, Beef, in Chafing-Dish, 207 Tea, Five o'clock, 144 Terrapin, Mock, 203 Timbales, Chicken, 210 " , Egg, 211 " , Ham, 214 Toast, Fig, 217 " , Mock Crab, 186 " , Woodcock, 206 Tomato-and-Artichoke Salad, 44 Tomato, Bean-and-Endive Salad, 36 Tomato,-Cress-and-Cucumber Salad, 41 Tomato Jelly, 43 " " Salad, 43, 44 Tomato-and-Onion Salad, 36 Tomato Salad, Horseradish Dressing, 40 Tomato Salad, Stuffed, 40 Tomato Sandwich, 200 " -and-Sweetbread Salad, 40 Tomatoes Farces à l'Aspic, 42 Tomatoes with Scrambled Eggs, 189 Tomatoes Stuffed with Celery and Nuts, 39 Tomatoes Stuffed with Cucumber, 41 " " " Jelly, 42 Tongue-and-Ham Sandwiches, 119 " -and-Spinach Salad, 85 " " Veal Sandwiches, 120 Tower of Babel, 124 Turkey-and-Chestnut Salad, 83 Turnips and Asparagus in Salad, 46 Turquoise Salad, 94 Two Loaves of Wheat Bread, 137

Veal-and-Tongue Sandwiches, 120 Vegetable, Cooked, Salad, 37 Vegetable Salad, Macedoine of, 47 Vegetable Salad, Russian, 48 Vegetables, To Blanch and Cook, 14 " , Curried, 199 " , To Render Crisp, 14 Vinegar, Fines Herbes, 17, 18 " , Nasturtium, 77 " , Tarragon, 17 Violet Sandwiches, 132

Watercress, How to Keep, 16 Wedding Sandwich Rolls, 129 Welsh Rarebit, 183 " " No. 2, 183 " " with Ale, 184 Whipped Cream Sandwiches, 133 White Hashed Potatoes, 199 Wine Cake (Baba), 216 Woodcock Scotch, 190, 207 Woodcock Toast, 206

Yorkshire Rarebit, 186

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_By Janet McKenzie Hill_

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Transcriber's Notes:

Obvious punctuation errors repaired and recipe form made consistent.

Page 5, "recherche" changed to "recherché".

Page 21, "teaspooonful" change to "teaspoonful". (1/2 of teaspoonful of salt.)

Page 42, "Tomates" changed to "Tomatoes". (Tomatoes Farces)

Page 85, "an" changed to "a". (centre half a)

Page 96, "grape fruit" changed to "grapefruit". (grapefruit upon shredded)

Page 156, "Newburg" changed to "Newburgh" to match rest of text. (a lobster Newburgh or)

Page 164, the recipe for Curried Oysters was missing a measurement for "teaspoonful of curry powder" in the original text. Research showed that 1/2 was most usual for recipes for this involving a fraction of a teaspoon. The text has been changed to reflect this.

Illustration for Yorkshire Rarebit originally read "Yorkshire Rabbit." This was changed to fit the actual recipe.

Page 215, "Rechauffé" changed to "Réchauffé". (Mutton Réchauffé)

Page 221, index entry for Plain Lobster was lacking the page number. It has been added.

Page 225, "Litichi" changed to "Litchi". (Litchi Nut Salad, 88)

Page 225, "Duxelles" changed to "D'Uxelles". (à la D'Uxelles, 164)

Page 228, "Serve" changed to "Served". (when Served with French)

Page 229, in the index both "Souffle" and "Souffles" were changed to "Soufflé" and "Soufflés."

The four instances of "tabasco" and five instances of "tobasco" were both retained, as were the instances of "well-nigh" and "wellnigh".