Part 1

Transcriber’s Note

In this plain text version of Royal Winchester: words in italics are marked with _underscores_ words printed in a bold Gothic font are marked with =equals signs= words in small capitals are shown in UPPER CASE.

Illustrations have been moved near to the text they illustrate. The page numbers in the List of Illustrations refer to the original positions.

Footnotes have been moved to the end of chapters.

Sidenotes were originally page headings, they have been moved to the start of paragraphs. These were all printed in italics.

Inconsistent hyphenation and variant spelling are retained. Quotations and transcriptions have been left as printed. Minor changes have been made to punctuation, the other changes that have been made are listed at the end of the book.

ROYAL WINCHESTER

WANDERINGS IN AND ABOUT THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF ENGLAND

BY THE REV. A. G. L’ESTRANGE, M.A.

AUTHOR OF “THE VILLAGE OF PALACES,” “THE FRIENDSHIPS OF M. R. MITFORD,” ETC., ETC.

WITH NUMEROUS TEXT AND FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES BY C. G. HARPER

_SECOND EDITION._

LONDON: SPENCER BLACKETT 35, ST. BRIDE STREET, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.C.

(_All rights reserved._)

Among those who have kindly afforded me information during the progress of this work are the Very Rev. Dr. Kitchin, Dean of Winchester, the Rev. Dr. Sewell, Warden of New College, Oxford, the Rev. J. G. Young, Mr. F. Baigent, Mr. J. H. Round, Mr. T. Stopher, and Mr. C. G. Harper. I have consulted, among recent works, those of the Misses Bramston and Leroy, the Rev. H. C. Adams, and Mr. Woodward.

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS.

FIRST DAY. PAGE Introduction--The High Street--The Castle--King Arthur --Historical Reminiscences--Executions--The Civil War--Charles II.’s Palace--The Westgate--Wyke-- Littleton--Crawley--Lainston--Sparsholt 1

SECOND DAY.

“God Begot” House--The High Street--Old Guildhall-- Butter Cross--King Alfred--The Penthouse--St. Maurice’s Church--The Bell and Crown--New Guildhall --Museum--Archives--St. Mary’s Nunnery--St. John’s Hospital--Soke Prison--St. Giles’ Hill--The Fair 49

THIRD DAY.

The City Walls--Danemead--Eastgate--Northgate-- Westgate--Southgate--Kingsgate--The College-- Wykeham--Wolvesey--Raleigh 85

FOURTH DAY.

Jewry Street and the Jews--Hyde Abbey--St. Grimbald --Destruction of Tombs--Headbourne Worthy-- King’s Worthy--The Nuns’ Walk 123

FIFTH DAY.

The Cathedral--Early History--Dagon--St. Swithun --Æthelwold--The Vocal Cross--Ordeal of Fire-- Walkelin--Renovation of the Cathedral--Civil War --Architecture--Nave--Isaak Walton--Relics and Monuments--De la Roche--Frescoes--Ethelmar-- Crypt 148

SIXTH DAY.

The Grenadier--Cathedral Library and Museum--The Deanery--Pilgrim’s Hall--Precincts--Cheyney Court --Regulations of the Monastery--North side of the Cathedral--Early decay of the City--St. Peter’s Street --Middle Brooks--Old Houses 209

SEVENTH DAY.

Southgate Street--St. Cross--Dr. Lewis--Regulations-- St. Catherine’s Hill 243

EIGHTH AND FOLLOWING DAYS.

Ancient Britons--St. John’s Church--Magdalen Hospital --Punchbowl--Chilcombe--St. Peter’s Cheesehill-- Twyford--Monoliths--Brambridge Avenue--Otterbourne --Compton--“Oliver’s Battery”--Hursley--Tomb of Keble--Merdon Castle--Farley Mount--The Hampage Oak--Tichborne 262

INDEX 297

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

THE CATHEDRAL: WEST FRONT, WINCHESTER _Frontispiece_

WESTGATE 7

CASTLE HALL 29

THE EPITAPH OF DR HARPESFELDE 40

SPARSHOLT CHURCH 45

THE BUTTER CROSS AND PENTHOUSE 49

ROYAL OAK PASSAGE 51

THE OLD GUILDHALL 55

THE GUILDHALL 67

SOKE BRIDGE 77

TOWERS AND SPIRES OF WINCHESTER 79

KINGSGATE 90

THE PORTER’S LODGE AND CHEYNEY COURT 92

CHAMBER COURT 99

THE CLOISTERS 103

THE COLLEGE CHAPEL 111

CORNER OF A COLLEGE STUDY 115

THE TOWER OF THE COLLEGE CHAPEL FROM THE ITCHEN 121

CNUT AND EMMA (ÆLFGYFU) PLACING THE CROSS AT HYDE 133

WYKEHAM’S TOMB 167

A FRAGMENT OF THE CHAPTER HOUSE 169

IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT 177

KING JAMES 181

THE CHOIR FROM THE NAVE 187

THE DEANERY 219

THE PENTHOUSE 233

MIDDLE BROOK 237

THE CHURCH OF SAINT CROSS FROM THE WATER MEADOWS 245

BEAUFORT TOWER, ST. CROSS 249

ST. CATHERINE’S HILL FROM ST. CROSS 259

ST. JOHN’S FROM A COTTAGE GARDEN 265

CHILCOMBE CHURCH 270

A CHILCOMBE TOMBSTONE 271

ST. PETER’S CHEESEHILL FROM ABOVE THE STATION 273

TWYFORD 278

HURSLEY 285

FARLEY MOUNT 288

ROYAL WINCHESTER

_WANDERINGS IN AND ABOUT THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF ENGLAND._

FIRST DAY.

Introduction--The High Street--The Castle--King Arthur--Historical Reminiscences--Executions--The Civil War--Charles II.’s Palace--The Westgate--Wyke--Littleton--Crawley--Lainston--Sparsholt.

“Would that the George Hotel had an old gable, or even an Elizabethan window,” I said to myself as I unshouldered my knapsack; “but perhaps the ordinary visitor thinks more of creature comforts than of artistic effects.”

“Is there anything of antiquity about the house?” I inquired, turning to the waiter.

“Not that I know of,” was the reply; “but it is a very ancient establishment. There is a fresco two hundred years old in one of the rooms,” he added, with a little pride.

I took out my notebook and pencil, and was shown into a ground-floor room in the western and earlier part of the hotel to see this curiosity. Alas! it proved to be nothing but an old paperhanging.

“Not very remarkable,” I said, carelessly.

“Indeed, sir!”

“I am expecting some friends by the next train,” I continued. “We shall require dinner for three. What can we have?”

The waiter was pretty well acquainted with the productions of the culinary department, which had not much charm of novelty, and after settling that important business, I sallied forth to purchase a guide-book. This was not the first time I had been at Winchester, and much of the information it contained was not new to me; but I wished to refresh my memory on some points, as the friends I was expecting looked to me to be their _cicerone_ during the few days we were to spend here together.

Reading some and skipping more, and glancing at the well-known illustrations, I thought myself fairly acquainted with the subject, especially as I had rummaged up something from old books and manuscripts in London. I wished to stand well with the old gentleman and his daughter for certain reasons which I shall not mention--because I may be unsuccessful. Well--we shall see.

[Sidenote: Arrival.]

Here they are!--warm greetings--the luggage is lifted down, and by degrees the small articles which accompany a lady’s travels were brought in, counted, and arranged. Do the number and variety of them cause me to hesitate or to reflect that in single blessedness--

“When a man’s hat is on his head His house is thatched and furnishèd”?

No, not for one moment.

Conversation soon becomes more connected, and, in due course, allusion is made to the object of our visit.

“Now, mind you tell us _everything_ about Winchester,” said Miss Hertford, with a smiling emphasis, which showed that she intended to be obeyed.

“Everything, and some other things,” I replied, submissively; “but perhaps you under-estimate the extent of the mine which is here beneath our feet. You are an enchantress, and if you wish to become the idol of antiquaries, turn Winchester upside down for a few hours.”

The present “George” is not inspiring architecturally, but still possesses a fragrance beyond that of mere soups and joints. Here successive generations have been accommodated and regaled,

“Have found the warmest welcome at an inn,”

ever since the days of Edward IV. Had a Visitors Book been kept, what a rare collection of autographs would it have contained! In the twentieth year of Henry VIII. we read of the “In of the George” being leased by the Mayor to one Stephen Boddam, on condition that he pays the rent fixed and forty shillings towards the new making of the chimney.[1] The name of the house was taken from the patron saint of England, pork-dealer, bishop, and dragon-slayer; to whom we find a chapel in Winchester dedicated in Henry IV.’s time.[2]

[Sidenote: Sufferings of a Royalist.]

The stable at the back is the oldest part. It has a dingy aspect, and an unpleasant association. When Waller was here making demands upon the citizens in 1643, one Master Say, a son of a Prebendary of the Cathedral, directed his servant to conceal his horses. Betrayed and brought before Waller, he was questioned, and his answers being deemed unsatisfactory, was handed over to the Provost Marshal to extract a confession. He was forthwith taken into the “eighteen-stall stable,” a halter was placed round his neck, and, as he still refused information, he was pulled up and down to the rack until nearly strangled. All the spectators retired in disgust--they could not stand the sight.

“How dreadful!” exclaimed Miss Hertford. “Did the poor man die?”

“It very nearly finished him,” I returned; “but people were pretty strong in those days. However, he had, as a result, a dangerous illness.”

There is no better starting-point than the “George,” in the centre of the High Street, for exploring Winchester. This was the chief street in Roman times, and perhaps terminated in such a round arch as we see at Lincoln. In the palmy days of the city good houses probably adorned the street. There seems to have been a fashionable tailor here in the days of John and Henry III. His cut was evidently appreciated, for he was not only employed by the King, but given wood to repair his house, Limafelda, the rent of which was a grey pelise for the King. We may conclude there was also a grand harness maker: for John ordered the Mayor to give the constable of Corfe Castle a handsome (pulchra) saddle, with a scarlet saddle-cloth and gilt bridle.[3]

The scene had greatly changed by Henry VIII.’s time. The houses, mostly wooden and thatched, had gardens in front of them, of a somewhat Irish character, for the walls were dilapidated,[4] and they contained few flowers, but many sweet--pigs. A civic order was now made that householders should no longer keep “hog-sties” within the boundaries of the “hie” street. Those were times of darkness--there were no town-lights, and some apprehension was felt that even the supply of candles might run short. And so, in the fifteenth year of Henry VIII., it was ordered by the Winchester “assemble” that the chandlers “should make” good and well-burning candles, and “should see there was no lack of them.”[5] In Charles II.’s time the citizens were bidden to hang out lights while the King was in residence.

[Sidenote: Westgate.]

Now let us come to a nearer date, and imagine this street a hundred years ago. An open drain ran down it, and lines of gables and overhanging storeys nodded across at each other in grotesque infirmity. A pretty picture they made, and there was one night in the year on which they seemed to me to be sadly missing--the fifth of November--when tar barrels were lit at the Westgate and kicked down the street by an exulting mob. A grand scene it was of riot and wildfire, and only wanted the quaint, irregular buildings to complete the effect.

“When Keats was here in 1819,” said Mr. Hertford, “he found the place much modernized and ‘improved.’ He says the side streets were excessively maiden-lady-like; the doorsteps were always fresh from the flannel, and the knockers had a staid, serious, almost awful quietness about them. Never did he see such a quiet collection of lions’ and rams’ heads.”[6]

The first object that attracted our attention on our walks was the Westgate, which crowns the High Street, and is beautiful with its ivy, arches, and two Decorated windows. There is a warm semi-domestic character in the fortifications of a town--a charm distinct from that of the colder grandeur of the Castle and Cathedral. As we approach the gate, we pass the Star Inn.

“That unpretentious building,” I said, “stands on holy ground.[7]

“Graves of unknown age, Roman coins and vases were found there when digging for the foundations in 1885. It is thought that a palace of Queen Emma stood on or near its site. There was a hostel named ‘La Starre’ in Winchester in the reign of Henry IV.”

[Sidenote: Prisoners.]

We now approach and stand before the gate. Had we been here in the fourteenth century--on a Sunday morning--during the fair, we should have found ourselves surrounded by a chattering crowd, buying bread at the stalls here erected; while close to us on the left (south), would have risen a grim tower in haughty grandeur. It stood just in front of where are now the stairs of the office of the Hampshire Friendly Society--a slight inequality in the road can be observed over the foundations. This was a part of the ancient castle, which some say was built by FitzOsborne at the Conqueror’s command, while others[8] observe that we have no allusion to it till the days of Henry I. In Henry II.’s reign it is often mentioned. Some say that previously the Saxon palace stood here. This palace has been well jolted about by topographers, most of whom place it in the Square behind the Butter Cross. The result is that we have here a couple of prisoners, and do not know where to put them. One of these is Stigand, Bishop of Winchester, and afterwards archbishop. His treasures were not entirely in the other world, but he kindly kept a correct account of them, and wore his key on a chain round his neck, so that on his death in 1070, William had no difficulty in turning his store into the royal coffers. The other sufferer was a young Saxon of the name of Meaw. It appears that the Conqueror’s wife, Matilda, was not so busy with her Bayeux tapestry and _Abbaye aux Dames_ as to forget all about this aggravating person. He would care nothing for her, and she determined to be revenged. So she had him shut up somewhere in Winchester, that he might have leisure to reflect on the advantages of being “willing and free.” Prisons were not then as they are now--some of the best warmed and ventilated places--there were no good food and attentive doctors, and after a short time poor Meaw was beyond the reach both of love and hatred.

[Sidenote: The Domesday Book.]

In this Castle was the “exchequer,” that is, the depository of records and treasure. Among the valuables it contained for a considerable time was the celebrated Domesday Book, or a copy of it, which is first mentioned as the “Liber de Thesauro,” appealed to in a case argued before Queen Matilda “in the treasury of the Castle of Winchester,”[9] about the year 1108. The original rolls disappeared at an early date, perhaps in some conflagration, but the Winton book, that describing this locality, is a more full copy from them than is the larger Domesday Book for the whole of England. Authorities differ as to when this book was removed from Winchester. In the seventh year of Henry II., there appears a charge in the Pipe Rolls for conveying the “arca” from Winchester to London, and in the London Record Office there is a curious chest in which this book was kept at Westminster. It is about five feet square, formed of iron nearly an inch thick, and strengthened with heavy girders and studs. This may have been the very ark above mentioned.

“In order to see this castle we must ante-date our existence three hundred years.”

“I wish we could,” said Mr. Hertford, “then we should have no trouble about Home Rule or County Councils.”

“Suppose then,” I proceeded, “we are standing in front of the old tower I have mentioned, and admiring its handsome mouldings of cut stone. If we are allowed to enter and explore we shall find beneath it three subterranean passages radiating in different directions--one to the east, passing into the town, with a view probably of taking sanctuary in churches; another to the south, leading towards the hall; and a third to the west, ending in a sally port outside the town. Passing through this entrance tower we have on our left an embattled wall (where the paved walk now runs) meeting the end of the hall,[10] and on our right another wall (along the course of the iron railing of the Friendly Society), extending to the State apartments--the site of the present County Offices. The original Norman Castle--a tower fifty-two feet square and fourteen thick, which stood where the Jubilee Queen now sits in front of the hall--was demolished at an early date. The succeeding castle had round towers, between thirty and forty feet wide, and from eight to ten thick.[11] Beyond the hall was an inner court, or ‘pleasaunce,’ with four towers, one at each corner; one is still visible, and one stood where the officers’ quarters are; one probably belonging to the Castle, but somewhat distant, and perhaps detached, was found in the railway cutting.

[Sidenote: The Castle.]

“A remarkable, if not fabulous event, took place ‘in the hall of Winchester Castle’ (or palace) in Edward the Confessor’s time. The story goes that one of the serving-men in bringing in a dish slipped one foot, but saved himself with the other. Earl Godwin being in good spirits, perhaps, at the termination of the almost endless grace, attempted a joke--a somewhat hazardous venture before the Confessor. ‘So should one brother support the other,’ quoth he. Edward was down upon him in a moment. ‘So might I have been now assisted by my brother Alfred, if Earl Godwin had not prevented it.’ The Earl protested that he had no connection with that murder; ‘might the next morsel be his last if he had.’ He ate and tried to swallow, but the food and the lie stuck in his throat, and he fell dead under the table.”

“I have read, somewhere,” observed Mr. Hertford, “that there is no truth in that story beyond the fact that the Earl died suddenly at a banquet here, and was buried in the Cathedral. It has a Norman flavour.”

We find that Henry II. bought a place in Winchester for his mews, which remained in the hands of John and Henry III.[12] John in his fifth year gave to Matthew Wallop “the custody of our house and castle gates and gaol in Winchester for the service of his keeping at his cost our birds put in the Castle to be mewed, finding one servant to mew them, and keep throughout the mewing time. And he shall find three hare hounds for each season.”[13] John also ordered a Columbarium to be made in the Castle.[14]

While we were admiring the exterior of the hall I thought of the grim ornaments with which the Castle was once adorned. Here was placed by Edward I. a quarter of the last native Prince of Wales. Here Queen Isabella exhibited the head of Earl Despencer. As I was musing, a labourer came out, and we were enabled to enter the building.

“Magnificent!” exclaimed Mr. Hertford. “What a length and height; and look at those tall, blue shafts of Purbeck marble!”

“Those pillars and aisles,” I replied, “have led some to mistake it for a church. But although we read of four chapels in the Castle--the chief of which was to St. Josse--this was not among them. The length is 110 feet. The old entrance to the hall, the mouldings of which are still visible, was used towards the end of the last century, and corresponded with that still existing on the south side.”[15]

[Sidenote: Arthur’s Table.]

At the west end are the remains of a daïs, and a curious orifice, supposed to be for communicating by word of mouth with the State apartments. Over this, like a large target, hangs the famous “round table” of King Arthur--a mystery for centuries. In the reign of Henry III., who was much here, and had his birth-room in the Castle coloured with fresh green, when there were statues in the porch, marble pillars, and a painted chamber, there were also here a “Mappa Mundi” and a “Wheel of Fortune.” The latter seems suggestive, and the Round Tower, built by Wykeham, at Windsor, and called the Round Table, may have been taken from this; but we hear nothing of it till Henry VI.’s reign,[16] and the present painting dates from Henry VIII., who specially showed the work of art to the Emperor Charles V. Round it are inscribed the names of Arthur’s knights, and in the centre is a picture of a king in voluminous robes, much more like a Tudor monarch than a British warrior.[17] Tradition says that Arthur founded this Castle. He and his companions, when divested of their French motley, represent the conflict which raged between the Christian Britons and the pagan Saxons. It is said that he gained a great victory in this neighbourhood, and so fondly did the conquered and oppressed natives recall the memory of their beloved champion, that they fancied he would come again--

“Thence to Britain shall return, If right prophetic rolls I learn, Borne on Victory’s spreading plume, His ancient sceptre to resume, His knightly table to restore, And brave the tournaments of yore.”

Henry VII. was not above superstitious or worldly considerations, and the legendary foundation of the Castle induced him to bring Elizabeth to this city to be delivered, and to call his first son Arthur.[18]

[Sidenote: The Castle.]

Great improvements were made in the Castle by Henry III., for which the forest of Bere was mainly contributory. The order is extant in which the verderers are commanded to sell the underwood and give the money for the construction of a great hall at the Castle,[19] and oaks were to be cut for forming the roof.[20] This forest, extending from Winchester to Southampton, would be able to furnish ample money and material. The stone for building and repairing the Castle was to be brought from “Kerebroc,” in the Isle of Wight.[21]