Round about the Carpathians

Consequences of trying to buy a horse--An expedition into Servia--Fine scenery--The peasants of New Moldova--Szechenyi road--Geology of the defile of Kasan--Crossing the Danube-...

Expedition to the Marmaros Mountains--Railways in Hungary--The train stopping for a rest--The Alföld--Shepherds of the plain--Wild appearance of the Rusniacks--Slavs of Northern...

Having expressed a wish to see the copper mine at Balanbanya, which is some five miles from Szent Domokos, my host proposed to drive me over the next morning. When the morning c...

During my stay at Uibanya the _Förstmeister_ (head of the forest department) from Karansebes came over on business, and he told us there was to be a shooting expedition on the A...

One glorious morning in June 1875, I, with the true holiday feeling at heart, for the world was all before me, stepped on board the Rustchuk steamer at Buda-Pest, intending to g...

Chamois and bear hunting--First battue--Luxurious dinner 5000 feet above the sea-level--Storm in the night--Discomforts--The bear's supper--The eagle's breakfast--Second and thi...

The winter is usually a very pleasant season at Buda-Pest. There is plenty of amusement; in fact, during the carnival, parties, balls, and concerts succeed one another without c...

Post-office at Karansebes--Good headquarters for a sportsman--Preparations for a week in the mountain--The party starting for the hunt--Adventures by the way--Fine trees--Game--...

Feeling curious not only about the geology of the Szeklerland, but interested also in the inhabitants, I resolved to pursue my journey by going through what is called the Csik....

We got back to Oravicza just in time to witness an election, which had been a good deal talked about as likely to result in a row. There were two candidates in the field: one a...

I found some difficulty while at Petrosèny in getting a guide to convoy me over the mountains to Orlat, near Herrmannstadt. My Hungarian friend proposed that, choosing a saint's...

We reached Maidenpek without further mishap, and here I began to make inquiries again about a horse. I was informed that in some of the villages farther up I should be sure to f...

The neighbourhood of Oravicza is well worth exploring, especially by those who like knocking about with a geological hammer. The mines in the Banat were perhaps worked earlier t...

The three weeks I remained at Schloss B---- were amongst the most agreeable days I spent in Transylvania. There were a great many visitors coming and going, affording me an exce...

I had brought with me from London a letter of introduction to a Hungarian gentleman residing near Hatszeg, and finding his place was not far off, I rode over to see him the even...

The vintage is the season of all others for Tokay; in former days it was a very gay affair, for then every noble family in Hungary, especially the bishops, had vineyards in the...

The following morning a ride of ten miles brought me to Herrmannstadt. Here I put up at the Hotel Neurikrer, a comfortable house; it was a new sensation getting into the land of...

I must now drop the itinerary of my journey and speak more in generalities; for after leaving the wilder districts of the Szeklerland, I took the opportunity of presenting some...

My horse being all right again, I thought it high time to push on to Kronstadt, which is nearly ninety miles from Herrmannstadt by road. There is railway communication, but not...

I mixed exclusively in Hungarian society during my stay at the baths of Tusnad. With Baron ---- and Herr von ---- I talked politics by the hour. The Hungarians have the natural...

It was a glorious morning when I left the comfortable village of Zeiden. Before me were the rich pastures of the Burzenland, a tract which tradition says was once filled up by t...

Kronstadt is a capital place as headquarters for any one who desires to explore the neighbouring country. One of my first expeditions was to Sinia, a small bath-place in the Tom...

After a week of such weather as we had had in the mountains, a water-tight roof over one's head was in itself a luxury; so we were not inclined to quarrel with our quarters at t...

My first expedition to the Tokay district was in the winter; I was then the guest of Baron V----, who has a charming château, surrounded by an English garden, in this celebrated...

At Toplicza I was very hospitably received by the family to whom I took the letter of introduction from my friends at the last place. Unfortunately I could not converse with the...

The charming scenery of the Szeklerland, and the kindly hospitality of the people, induced me to linger on. I had many a ride through those glorious primeval forests, where the...

The history of the town of Petrosèny is as short as that of some of the western cities of America. It began life in 1868, and is now the terminus of a branch railway.

The mixture of races in Hungary is a puzzle to any outsider. There is the original substratum of Slavs, overlaid by Szeklers, Magyars, German immigrants, Wallacks, Rusniacks, Je...

From Szereda I went to Szent Domokos. It was a long ride, and I was again nearly benighted. However, I reached my destination this time just as the last streak of daylight had d...

Instead of going back to St Miklos by the same route, I resolved to diverge a little if the weather permitted. I wanted to visit Tölgyes, a village on the frontier of Moldavia,...

A couple of days after my arrival at Uibanya, my friend F---- kindly arranged a little expedition into Servia, with the object of making the ascent of the Stierberg, a mountain...

Some matters of business recalled me to Buda-Pest in the midst of a round of visits in Transylvania. The great hospitality of my new friends would have rendered a winter in that...

Though Buda-Pest had escaped the worst of the threatened calamity, the state of the low-lying suburbs of the town on both sides of the river was very serious, and, as it turned...

It is remarkable that the Saxons in Transylvania, who had suffered so much tribulation from the religious persecutions of the house of Hapsburg, preferring even to shelter thems...

The old copper and silver mines of Oravicza are now abandoned, but the industrial activity of the place is kept up by the working of coal mines, which have their depôt here. The...

Consequences of trying to buy a horse--An expedition into Servia--Fine scenery--The peasants of New Moldova--Szechenyi road--Geology of the defile of Kasan--Crossing the Danube-...

Expedition to the Marmaros Mountains--Railways in Hungary--The train stopping for a rest--The Alföld--Shepherds of the plain--Wild appearance of the Rusniacks--Slavs of Northern...

Post-office at Karansebes--Good headquarters for a sportsman--Preparations for a week in the mountains--The party starting for the hunt--Adventures by the way--Fine trees--Game-...

Chamois and bear hunting--First battue--Luxurious dinner 5000 feet above the sea-level--Storm in the night--Discomforts--The bear's supper--The eagle's breakfast--Second and thi...

Back at Mehadia--Troubles about a carriage--An unexpected night on the road--Return to Karansebes--On horseback through the Iron Gate Pass--Varhely, the ancient capital of Dacia...

Magyar intolerance of the German--Patriotic revival of the Magyar language--Ride from Herrmannstadt to Kronstadt--The village of Zeiden--Curious scene in church--Reformation in...