Chapter 7

Fruit, eggs, cream cheeses, or small Neufchatel cheeses: such are the supplies to be found in this market. About fifty years ago, a gilt leaden statue, representing Louis XVth in his youth, and covered with the royal mantle, was to be seen. This monument has been replaced by the present obelisk, which furnishes an abundant supply of water to the inhabitants of this quarter.

PLACE NOTRE-DAME.

Before 1429, this place served as a poultry and grass market. In 1537, it was paved and enclosed with a low wall. In 1641, two stone Crosses, still visible in some ancient engravings, were placed at the two corners. In the time of _Pommeraye_, the _parvis_ Notre-Dame, was the place on which bonfires were lighted. At present it is the flower and seed market, regularly held on the sundays and fridays.

PLACE DE LA CALENDE.

It was formerly called _Port-Morant_, _port des navires_, or _port de Notre-Dame_, because, before the first dukes enclosed the Seine within certain limits, the vessels discharged their cargoes at this place. The house which is exactly opposite the porch of the church and on which we distinguish a dial, is the remains of the old _Hotel-Dieu_.

THE ROUGEMARE.

In the year 949, Otho, emperor of Germany, Louis IVth, king of France, and Arnold, count of Flanders, laid siege to the town of Rouen. The duke Richard Ist, surnamed _Sans-Peur_, made a _sortie_ by the _porte Beauvoisine_, and fell on the enemies of which he made a great slaughter. This action took place partly on the site of the present _Rouge-Mare_ (red-pool), from the blood with which it was covered.

In 1450, the _Rouge-Mare_ became the horse market, which has, since the end of the last century, been transferred to the _Boulingrin_. The _Rouge-Mare_ is now the butter market.

THE BOULINGRIN.

The English have returned to the French that which they had borrowed of them. Formerly, people did not go to walk on the _boulevard_, but on the _boule-verd_, from which the english have made _bowling-green_, a literal translation. From this word, the french derive their _Boulingrin_.

This place is situated at the junction of the rampes Beauvoisine and Saint-Hilaire; it is a vast square surrounded by a magnificent double row of horse chestnut trees. Since the horse market has been transferred to it, people commonly call it the _new Rouge-Mare_.

PUBLIC LIBRARY,

PICTURE GALLERY AND MUSEUMS.

PUBLIC LIBRARY,

_At the Town Hall._

The opening of this library took place on the 4th july 1809. Since then, the inhabitants and strangers are admited into this establishment every day, (except Sundays, thursdays and during the vacations), from eleven till four, and from 6 till 9 o'clock in the evening. The present collection, consists of about thirty five thousand volumes. There are above eleven hundred manuscripts. Several of them are very curious and rare, from their date, their illuminations, or their subjects. Amongst the first, although not the most ancient, I will mention the famous _Gradual_ by Daniel d'Aubonne, who died in the year 1714. It measures two feet seven inches in length by one foot ten inches in breadth and weighs seventy three pounds. It is ornamented with brass plates; on each side of the binding, we may observe the armorial bearings of the abbey of Saint-Ouen, which are also of brass. This manuscript contains about two hundred vignettes, initials of all sizes, and also a great number of gilt letters. One cannot admire too much the patience of the author, who passed thirty years, it is said, on this immense undertaking. The library contains also other manuscripts, infinitely more precious, amongst which are several of the XIth, IXth, and even of the VIIth and VIIIth centuries. The learned will distinguish amongst the most important of the manuscripts, the curious missal of archbishop Robert, which was brought from England about the year 1050, with the _benedictionary_, which was used at the coronation of the Anglo-Saxon Kings. These two manuscripts are ornamented with magnificent miniatures in the greek style of the empire. The books printed before the year 1500 amount to three hundred and twenty eight, of which two hundred and forty bear dates; the most ancient is of 1468.

The library contains also collections of great value and editions which have become very rare. The government has enriched it with several very valuable works. The most important gift that has yet been made to the library, is that which was sent, by the commission of records in England, of the collection of historical documents, which they have published. This magnificent gift, which will be followed by several others, is composed of 71 vols. folio, and 168 vols. 8 vo.

The Leber's magnificent collection of books and manuscripts, bought last year by the city, will shortly be added to the public library.

The present keeper is M.A. Pottier.

PICTURE GALLERY,

_At the Town Hall._

The opening of the picture gallery took place on the same day (4th july 1809), as that of the library. The greater part of the paintings have been collected in the departement. The government has also assisted in enriching it, by giving several paintings of different schools, the municipal council by voting different acquisitions, and some private persons, by voluntary gifts. This interesting collection is composed of about three hundred paintings, amongst which we remark _a Virgin in the midst of Angels_, called _the Virgin of Saint-Sixte_, by Raphael, an admirable copy, if not a second original of the picture known under the same name in the gallery of Dresden; also three small paintings, placed next to each other, and which are incontestably by that great painter and in his best style; the Van Eyck representing _the Virgin in the midst of young girls; a mass during the league_, a painting which is curious on account of the subject and great personnages which it represents; _a Conversion of saint Matthew_, by Valentin; _a saint Francis in prayer_, by Hannibal Carrache; _an Ecce Homo_ and a copy of the _Holy family_, by Mignard; _a death of saint Francis_, by Jouvenet; several marines, by Vernet; _a descent from the Cross_, by Lahire; _the plague of Milan_, by Lemonnier, of Rouen; and a great many others, which it would require too much room to mention here. At the extremity of the entrance gallery, we remark a statue of baked clay by Caffiery[22], representing Pierre Corneille. Several marble statues and plaster castes of the finest ancient statues, are placed in the room at the extremity of this gallery. The statues which we observe in the lobby are those of general Bonchamps, by David, and opposite, that of Achilles, by Bougron. The latter belongs to the academy, which possesses also the magnificent painting by Mr Court, representing _Corneille complimented in the theatre by the great Conde_ and the fine _portrait of Boieldieu_, by Mr Boullenger de Boisfremont. These two paintings are placed in the hall of the academy, adjoining that of the library and picture gallery; strangers are permitted to see them.

During the month of July, there is an exhibition of paintings, principally by artists of Rouen.

The establishment is open to the public on sundays and thursdays, and every day to painters and strangers, from ten till four o'clock.

The present keeper is M.H. Bellange.

[Footnote 22: Another statue of Corneille, in marble, is placed in the large hall on the ground floor; it is a much esteemed work of Cortot, a french sculptor.]

MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES.

_At Saint-Mary's, rue Poussin._

This museum, which was established in 1833, after a proposition of Mr Dupont-Delporte, prefect, by the general council of the departement, was opened to the public in 1834. It occupies two of the galleries of the cloister of the ancient convent of Saint-Mary. In the first gallery are the gallic, roman and gallo-roman antiquities, as also those of the middle ages; in the second, those of the period, termed the _renaissance_. This chronological order has been preserved as much as possible. The searches which have taken place in different parts of the departement, and especially in the roman theatre at Lillebonne, have produced the greater number of antiquities. A great many others are through the generosity of private individuals. This museum contains statues, busts, bas-reliefs, fragments of architecture, sarcophagi, urns of marble and stone; vases of bronze, glass and baked earth; gallic and roman medals, pieces of french coins, seals of the middle ages, stained glass, arms, pieces of furniture, utensils and ornaments of different ages.

This museum is open on sundays and holy days from eleven till four o'clock, and on tuesdays and thursdays for amateurs and strangers, from twelve till three o'clock.

The keeper is Mr A. Deville.

MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY.

_At Saint-Mary's, rue Poussin._

The municipal administration of Rouen founded the gallery of natural history, in 1827; but, it was only in the year 1832, and after having been enriched by the administration of that time, that it was judged fit to be offered to public curiosity.

The increase of this museum has been rapid; already, within its few years of existence, it may be advantageously compared with most provincial collections; and through the maritime situation of the town, may one day be placed immediately after that at Paris. It is remarkable, for the numerous shells which it possesses, as also for some mammiferi, which are exceedingly rare. This gallery is open to the public, on sundays and holy days; foreigners and students may enter on any day.

Mr Pouchet is the director of this establishment.

LEARNED SOCIETIES.

ROYAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES, ARTS AND BELLES-LETTRES.

FREE SOCIETY OF EMULATION.

CENTRAL SOCIETY OF AGRICULTURE.

SOCIETY FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY.

SOCIETY OF MEDICINE.

APOTHECARIES SOCIETY.

SOCIETY OF THE FRIENDS OF ARTS.

HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

COMMISSION OF ANTIQUITIES.

PHILHARMONIC SOCIETY.

BOTANICAL GARDEN.

This garden was formerly situated on the _Cours-Dauphin_, but, the municipal administration wishing to render that portion of the town named Martainville, more healthy, entertained the project of opening a street at the entrance of the town, on the ground occupied by this garden; in consequence they sought another place, more suitable for a botanical garden. The place fixed upon, is the _park of Trianon_, where people formerly went, to visit the fine hot houses, and rare collection of dahlias and other plants, which belonged to a distinguished english florist, Mr Calvert.

This new botanical garden, is situated at the extremity of the rue d'Elbeuf, and forms a square of about 45,500 metres (or yards) surface. Mr Lejeune, an architect, gave the plan of this garden.

LECTURES ON CHEMISTRY.

These lectures take place every year, (beginning the 15th november), on tuesdays and saturdays at one o'clock, in one of the halls of the ancient convent of Saint-Marie. The lectures are principally on the application of chemistry to arts and industry.

LECTURES ON NATURAL PHILOSOPHY.

These lectures were instituted in 1835; they take place twice a week in the amphitheatre at Saint-Marie.

PUBLIC LESSONS IN DRAWING.

This school, founded by Mr Descamps, the author of the _lives of flemish painters_, is now established at Saint-Marie. The lessons commence in the month of november and finish in the month of august, from one o'clock till three.

LECTURES ON NATURAL HISTORY.

They take place in the amphitheatre, which is given for this science, and is situated at Saint-Marie, Poussin street. The lectures take place on tuesdays and saturdays, during the winter, at eight o'clock in the evening.

There are besides, at Saint-Marie, every sunday, lectures on geometry and mechanics applied to arts and manufactures, and lectures also on commercial law and book keeping.

SECONDARY SCHOOL OF MEDICINE.

The different branches are taught in the hospitals, by the physicians who are attached to these establishments.

THEATRES.

The _Theatre-des-Arts_ at the corner of the rues _Grand-Pont_ and des _Charrettes_, was erected by Francis Gueroult, an architect of Rouen. The first stone was laid on the 18th june 1774, and the opening took place the 29th june 1776, on Saint-Peter's day and the fete of Corneille. This theatre was altered and lighted with gas, in 1835, and will contain about seventeen or eighteen hundred persons. The ceiling was painted by Lemoine, a native of this city, and represents the _apotheosis of Corneille_.

The peristyle fronting the rue des Charrettes is in the form of a quarter of a circle and is composed of columns of the ionic order. The medallion of Pierre Corneille is sculptured on the entablature which is supported by these columns, and on each side of the medallion, we perceive Melpomene with a dagger, and Thalia with a mask.

The performers for operas and comedies are generally good.

The second theatre is situated on the old market place and is called the _Theatre-Francais_; this building formerly used as a tennis court, was opened for theatrical purposes on the 2nd of february 1793. This theatre will contain about twelve hundred persons. Besides these two theatres, there is a third at the entrance of Saint-Sever, which is the circus or _Ambigu-Dramatique_.

PUBLIC WALKS IN ROUEN.

COURS BOIELDIEU AND THE EXCHANGE.

These are the fashionable walks. The bronze statue between the two is that of Boieldieu, the celebrated french composer a native of Rouen. It is the work of the sculptor Dantan the younger.

COURS DE LA REINE.

According to _Farin_, this public walk was formed for a walk for the ladies, and is one of the finest in the kingdom; its length is about 674 fathoms. Four rows of large elms form the whole length on the banks of the Seine. On holy-thursday, the _Cours-de-la-Reine_ begins to be used as a fashionable promenade, and it may be said that on that day, it has a very gay appearance.

AVENUES OF MONT-RIBOUDET, AND COURS-DAUPHIN.

The first is the principal entrance to Rouen from Havre and Dieppe, and the second, at the opposite extremity of the quay, the entrance from Paris, Evreux, etc.

THE BOULEVARDS.

They occupy, for the greater part, the place of the ditches which surrounded the town; they were planted between the years 1770 and 1780 and were paved in 1783, at the expense of the town. They are about 3 miles in length.

WALKS WITHOUT THE TOWN.

Mount Saint-Catherine first presents itself. We may go to it, either by the Paris high road, or by the _petites eaux_ Martainville. The last mentioned, although the least frequented, is perhaps the preferable route on account of the diversity of the landscape.

It will be useless for the traveller, when he has reached the top of the hill, to look for the ancient abbey of the _Sainte-Trinite-du-Mont_, the chapel of the _priory of Saint-Michel_, or the fortifications, in which the marquis of Villars withstood the attacks of Henry IVth; nothing of them remains at the present day, except two remnants of a wall, which threaten to fall on the traveller, who is imprudent enough to approach too near them.

From this elevated position, in turning towards the north-east, we see the valley of _Darnetal_, which has become so rich through the industry of those who inhabit it. The eye reposes with pleasure on the gothic tower of the church of _Carville_; and of which, according to tradition, Henry IVth, made a post of observation when he besieged the fort of the _ligue_. We must not forget that an English detachment, which served in the army of the king, conducted itself very bravely in the different attacks, with which it was entrusted. On the opposite side of the valley of Darnetal and towards the north, we distinguish the hill named _des Sapins_, on which the monumental burying ground is situated. This latter hill adjoins the _Bois-Guillaume_ from which also the view is admirable although inferior to that from the mount Saint-Catherine, which advances like a promontory, above the immense valley of the Seine, while that of Bois-Guillaume or Beauvoisine, recedes from the circular line formed by the union of these different hills.

The Bois-Guillaume joins _Saint-Aignan_. We cross the latter _commune_, on our way to _Mont-aux-Malades_, formerly the _Mont-Saint-Jacques_. Antiquarians will not fail to go and see a church at this place, which is a venerable remains of norman architecture. There were two, but the other is now almost destroyed. Travellers should also visit the hill of _Canteleu_ from which the view is very fine, and at the same time the country house of M. Elie Lefebure, called the _Chateau of Canteleu_.

BURYING GROUNDS OF ROUEN.

There are at present, five burying grounds for the roman catholics, and two for the protestants. They are the burying grounds of _Saint-Gervais_, _Beauvoisine_, _Val-de-la-Jatte_, of which a part has been walled off for the protestants; _Mont-Gargan_, _Saint-Sever_, and _Champ-des-Oiseaux_, which latter forms the second protestant burying ground. The great demand of families, to obtain a piece of ground, on which to erect a monument on the tomb of a relation, had caused a great diminution of ground for interments; the municipal administration therefore took measures to prevent the consequences of it. On the proposition of the marquis de Martainville, then mayor of the town they determined, on the 24th april 1823, that a monumental burying should be established on the east of Rouen, on a portion of the hill of Fir-Trees which was barren, and could be disposed of without any loss.

This new burying ground contains about ten acres of ground, enclosed with walls. A chapel is erected on the highest point of the hill; and a vault has been formed under it for the provisional deposit of bodies, which cannot be interred immediately. A tariff exists, which regulates the sum to be paid by families, who wish to purchase a place in this burying ground.

THE END.

CONTENTS.

Historical introduction 1.

RELIGIOUS MONUMENTS.

Parochial churches.

Cathedral 19.

Saint-Ouen 56.

Saint-Maclou 69.

Saint-Patrice 74.

Sainte-Madeleine 76.

Saint-Sever 77.

Saint-Romain 79.

Saint-Godard 85.

Saint-Nicaise 88.

Saint-Vincent 90.

Saint-Vivien 92.

Chapels of ease.

Saint-Gervais 93.

Saint-Hilaire 96.

Saint-Paul 96.

Protestant worship.

Saint-Eloi 99.

Churches closed in 1791 101.

CIVIL MONUMENTS.

Town hall (Hotel-de-Ville) 104.

Archiepiscopal palace 106.

Palace-of-Justice 103.

Tower of the Grosse-Horloge 113.

Coverted markets 116.

Exchange (la Hourse) 120.

Tribunal of commerce or the Consuls 122.

Custom house (la Douane) 123.

Public slaughterhouse (les Abbatoirs) 126.

Royal college 129.

Hospitals 131.

Prisons 141.

Soldiers-Barracks 142.

Remarkable edifices.

Hotel du Bourgtheroulde 144.

Ancient abbey of Saint-Amand 146.

Ancient bureau des finances 149.

Remarkable houses and celebrated men 150.

Bridges.

Stone bridge and statue of Corneille 152.

Suspension bridge 155.

River and rivulets 157.

Fountains 160.

Mineral waters 165.

Squares and marketplaces 166.

The maid of Orleans, etc. 167.

Library, picture gallery and museums.

Public library 171.

Picture gallery 174.

Museum of antiquities 177.

Museum of natural history 179.

Learned societies 180.

Botanical garden, etc. 181.

Public and gratuitous courses of instruction 189.

Theatres 184.

Walks in Rouen 186.

Walks without the town 188.

Burying grounds 190.