Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

Part 5

Chapter 52,527 wordsPublic domain

At the end of the Moraine Park Road is a picnic area. A trail begins here which follows Big Thompson River, past beaver dams and The Pool, to Fern Falls and Fern Lake. From Fern Lake the trail continues to Odessa Lake and on to Bear Lake. Many people leave Bear Lake, reaching Moraine Park by this trail. The trip is about 9 miles; 6 hours gives ample time for a leisurely pace.

_Wild Basin Trails._

Many persons consider Wild Basin the finest wilderness area in the park. Trails begin here at the road's end and lead up the branches of North St. Vrain Creek to many beautiful lakes. One popular hike (about 4 hours) is to Ouzel Falls, via Calypso Cascades, and return. Most of the other trips in Wild Basin are longer and make more suitable all-day hikes. Thunder Lake is one of these spots. Ouzel and Bluebird Lakes make another 1-day trip combination. There is no trail across the range here, but some fine, back-country hiking possibilities exist for the sturdy, seasoned hiker.

_Western Slope Trails._

Many people hike or ride horseback from Bear Lake over Flattop Mountain to Grand Lake via either Big Meadows or North Inlet. This takes all day as compared with 2 or 3 hours by road. However, the trail trip is through much splendid scenic country which is not seen by the highway traveler between these two points. Hikes in the Grand Lake vicinity include one to Shadow Mountain Fire Lookout, with matchless panoramic views, and the interesting "trail to nowhere," up Columbine Creek. The trail distances to major points of interest on the west slope are longer than on the east side of the park, and many people prefer to use horses. By riding, trips to Lake Verna in East Inlet and Lakes Nokoni and Nanita in North Inlet can be made in 1 day. A number of spectacular horseback trips in Never Summer Range are possible. Saddle-horse operators can help you plan such trips in this vicinity.

_Trails in the Estes Park Vicinity._

Several interesting trail trips near Estes Park village and in the lower altitudes of the park are available. These are especially pleasant early or late in the season when many of the higher trails are snow-blocked. Gem Lake is reached by a 2-mile trail (3 hours or so) which begins about 1 mile from town on the Devils Gulch Road. This trip presents interesting rock formations and fine panoramic views. Twin Sisters is a high, isolated mountain south of Estes Park, reached by a trail beginning on State Route 7. A good hike for about 7 hours takes one to the top of this mountain and back in a leisurely manner. The view of the plains from Twin Sisters is extensive, and treeline flowers add color to the trip. There are several other hiking trails in this area.

_Trails near Trail Ridge Road._

At Deer Ridge, a trail leads to the commanding summit of Deer Mountain, which is a fine, early-season hike although dry in midsummer. On the tundra, a trail leads from Rock Cut on the road to the Memorial Peakfinder. A trail also leads from Iceberg Lake to Fall River Pass. At Milner Pass a trail leaves the highway, passes through an especially beautiful forest, and reaches the top of Specimen Mountain. This hike affords matchless scenic views, particularly of the Never Summer Range, fine displays of wildflowers, and possible glimpses of bighorn. Near the spot where Trail Ridge Road begins the ascent of the western slope, a trail leads up the Colorado River to the ghost town of Lulu City, and branches continue to Poudre Pass, Thunder Pass, and beyond.

Many of these trails--and others--can be covered by visitors on summer trips with the park ranger-naturalists. These escorted hikes help you to get your bearings in the park, as well as understand the natural features encountered along the route. If you are interested in hiking, you should join a few of these naturalist trips. In this way, you quickly realize the possibilities for your unescorted hikes, if you prefer to travel on your own. The park ranger-naturalists will help you plan other hikes and will do all they can to make your trail trips safe, interesting, and enjoyable.

This outline of trail-trip possibilities is only a beginning. There are also trips to Lawn Lake, Tyndall Glacier, Windy Gulch, the North Fork of the Thompson River, and Chasm Lake. Information on the far more difficult mountaintop trips is not included here. If you expect to ascend such mountains as Longs Peak or McHenry's Peak, be sure to consult the park ranger at the nearest ranger station or go to the chief ranger's office in Estes Park village. Routes to be followed may vary from week to week because of changes in snow conditions; ask park rangers for up-to-date information. Remember to get a fire permit if you plan to camp out on the trail.

SUGGESTED READINGS

This booklet may help your understanding and appreciation of Rocky Mountain National Park, but in its limited pages only a superficial treatment can be given. The following publications--nearly all of them available for reference or purchase at the park museum information office or Fall River Pass exhibit room--have been found helpful sources of more detailed interpretation of the story of this park.

_Birds_

Niedrach, Robert J., and Robert B. Rockwell, _Birds of Denver and Mountain Parks_. Denver Museum of Natural History, 1959. Peterson, Roger Tory, _Field Guide to Western Birds_. Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, 1941.

_Plants_

Clements, Edith S., _Flowers of Mountain and Plain_. H. W. Wilson Co., New York, 1926 (3d edition). More, Robert W., _Colorado Evergreens_. Denver Museum of Natural History, 1949. Guide to the conifers, with photographic illustrations. Nelson, Ruth Ashton, _Plants of Rocky Mountain National Park_. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1953. The basic reference on the wildflowers of the region. Pesman, M. Walter, _Meet the Natives_. Cooperative Printing Co., Denver, rev. ed., 1960. A guide to the flora of the region, with a color-key arrangement; useful anywhere in Colorado. Preston, Richard, _North American Trees_. Iowa State College Press, Ames, Iowa, 1948. An illustrated guide to all species of trees of North America. Roberts, Harold and Rhoda, _Common Wildflowers of Colorado_. Museum Pictorial No. 8, Denver Museum of Natural History, 1959. Roberts, Rhoda, and Ruth Nelson, _Mountain Wildflowers of Colorado_. Museum Pictorial No. 13, Denver Museum of Natural History, 1957. Fifty common mountain wildflowers described and illustrated.

_Fishes_

Beckman, William C., _Guide to the Fishes of Colorado_. Leaflet No. 11, Univ. of Colorado Museum, Boulder, 1952.

_Geology_

Pearl, Richard M., _Nature as a Sculptor_. Denver Museum of Natural History, 1956. A geological interpretation of western scenery, chiefly Colorado. Rocky Mountain Nature Association, _Glaciers of Rocky Mountain National Park_. Published in cooperation with National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, 1959. Glacier story of Rocky Mountain National Park, past and present. U.S. Geological Survey, _Denver Mountain Area Map_. 1955. Covers most of Colorado's Front Range and explains its geology. Wegemann, Carroll, _A Guide to the Geology of Rocky Mountain National Park_. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1955. Helpful road logs and the general geologic story of the park.

_Mammals_

Burt, W. H., and R. P. Grossenheider, _Field Guide to the Mammals_. Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, 1956. A manual for the identification of all mammals north of Mexico. Rodeck, Hugo G., _Guide to the Mammals of Colorado_. University of Colorado, Boulder.

_Mountain Climbing and Hiking_

Henderson, Kenneth, _Handbook of American Mountaineering_. Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, 1942. A pocket-size book, almost encyclopedic in scope, giving detailed information on mountain climbing and life on the trail. Nesbit, Paul, _Longs Peak, Its Story and a Climbing Guide_. Published by Paul W. Nesbit, Colorado Springs, Colo., 1959. Ormes, Robert M., _Guide to the Colorado Mountains_. Sage Books, Denver, 3d revised edition, 1955.

_Parks in General_

Butcher, Devereux, _Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments_. Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, 4th edition, 1954. In cloth or paper covers; illustrated; gives succinct information on all our parks with natural-history backgrounds. Shankland, Robert, _Steve Mather of the National Parks_. Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1955. The evolution of the National Park System and the life of the first director of the National Park Service. Story, Isabelle, _National Park Story in Pictures_. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1957. Tilden, Freeman, _The National Parks: What They Mean to You and Me_. Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1955. Factual material on the parks, their significance, origins, and characteristics.

APPENDIX A--GUIDE TO MAMMAL OBSERVATION

_Hoofed Mammals_

_Bighorn_ (mountain sheep)--Best seen on Sheep Rock south of Poudre Lake; also at Sheep Lake, Shipler and Specimen Mountains, Hallett's Peak, Mount Alice, Never Summer Range, Mount Ida.

_Deer, Mule_--Occasional in open pine country, especially early and late in the day. Hillside above Tuxedo Park, Moraine Park, Deer Mountain, Trail Ridge, and Kawuneeche Valley.

_Elk, American_--At treeline on Trail Ridge, Upper Poudre Valley, and near Lawn Lake in summer; occasionally in Hallowell and Horseshoe Parks during bad weather. Large herds in lower meadows from October to April.

_Predatory Mammals_

_Badger_--Occasional in Moraine Park and other open meadow areas.

_Bear, black_--Uncommon; infrequently observed along roads and trails and in wooded areas throughout the park.

_Bobcat_--Common, but in ravine country, especially at lower elevations.

_Cougar_ (mountain lion)--Uncommon; occasionally seen above Loch Vale, Horseshoe Park, upper Fall River Valley; typical habitat around Gem Lake.

_Coyote_--Common, especially in Hallowell Park, lower Cub Lake Valley, Moraine Park, lower Beaver Meadows; signs on Deer and Specimen Mountains.

_Fox, red_--Fairly common at or above treeline, along the Colorado River, and in the Kawuneeche Valley.

_Marten_--Occasional at Bear Lake, Haiyaha, Fern-Odessa Trail, Lulu City; usually in spruce-fir forest.

_Mink_--Occasional along higher streams and lakes like Haiyaha.

_Weasel, longtail_--Occasionally seen above treeline on Trail Ridge at Rock Cabins and Rock Cut; and at woodpiles in lower meadows.

_Gnawing Mammals_

_Beaver_--Workings along Glacier Creek in Glacier Basin, in Hallowell Park, Moraine Park, Lower Hidden Valley, Grand Lake Valley. Seen early or late in the day.

_Chipmunks_ (Colorado and Least)--Common everywhere, especially on Trail Ridge and on Gem Lake Trail.

_Cottontail_--Only at lower elevations. Fairly common in Hallowell Park, Moraine Park, and Beaver Meadows.

_Hare, snowshoe_--Occasional in spruce-fir forests and down to about 8,500 feet. Common around Phantom Valley Ranch.

_Jackrabbit, whitetail_--Uncommon; above treeline on Trail Ridge.

_Marmot, yellowbelly_--Common everywhere in rocky country, especially on lower Cub Lake Trail.

_Mouse, deer_--Common everywhere at night; often seen running across road or heard in cabins and tents.

_Mouse, western jumping_--Uncommon; in dense vegetation along streams.

_Muskrat_--Often seen at twilight in Sheep Lake and nearby ponds; also in old beaver ponds along lower Cub Lake Trail.

_Pika_--Fairly common in rockpiles above 9,500 feet, as at Rock Cut on Trail Ridge, along trail on Flattop, above Bear Lake Lodge, and at Longs Peak Boulder Field.

_Pocket gopher, northern_--Piled diggings evident in most grassland, especially in high country.

_Porcupine_--Common in ponderosa and lodgepole forests; often encountered on Bear Lake and Grand Lake Highways at night. Dens in rocks.

_Squirrel, golden-mantled ground_--Common everywhere in rocky country, especially on Trail Ridge, at Bear Lake, and along lower Cub Lake Trail.

_Squirrel, Richardson ground_--Common everywhere in grassland at middle elevations, especially Moraine Park and Estes parkland.

_Squirrel, spruce_--Fairly common in spruce-fir forest, especially around Bierstadt Lake, Cub Lake, Brinwood to Pool, upper Hidden Valley, Wild Basin, and lower Lawn Lake Trail.

_Squirrel, tassel-eared_--Occasional in ponderosa pines at Sheep Lake, Tuxedo Park, and Gem Lake Trail.

APPENDIX B--GUIDE TO BIRD OBSERVATION

(_Courtesy, Dr. R. G. Beidleman, Colorado College_)

SPECIES AREAS (see key below) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Blackbird, Brewer's X Blackbird, red-winged X X Bluebird, mountain X X X X Chickadee, mountain X X X X X X X Chickadee, black-capped X X X X X X Creeper, brown X X X Dipper, or water ouzel X X Eagle, golden X X Finch, brown-capped rosy X Finch, Cassin's X X Finch, house X Flicker, red-shafted X X X X X X Flycatcher, olive-sided X X Flycatcher, western X Goshawk X X X Grosbeak, black-headed X Grosbeak, pine X Grouse, blue X X Hawk, red-tailed X X X X Hummingbird, broad-tailed X X X X X X X X Jay, gray X X Jay, Steller's X X X X X Junco, gray-headed X X X X X X Kingfisher, belted X X Kinglet, golden-crowned X X Kinglet, ruby-crowned X X X X X X Lark, horned X Magpie, black-billed X X X X Mallard X X X Nutcracker, Clark's X X X X X X X X X Nuthatch, pigmy X X X X X X X X Nuthatch, white-breasted X X X X X Pewee, western wood X X X X X X X X Pigeon, band-tailed X X X Pipit, water X Ptarmigan, white-tailed X Raven, common X X Robin X X X X X X X X X X Sandpiper, spotted X X X Sapsucker, yellow-bellied X X X X X X Sapsucker, Williamson's X X X X X Siskin, pine X X X X X X X X Solitaire, Townsend's X X X X X Sparrow, chipping X X X Sparrow, Lincoln's X X X Sparrow, song X X X X Sparrow, vesper X Sparrow, white-crowned X X Starling X Swallow, tree X Swallow, violet-green X X X X X X X X Swift, white-throated X X X X X Tanager, western X X X X X X Thrush, hermit X X X Towhee, green-tailed X X X X X X Vireo, red-eyed X X X X X X Vireo, warbling X X X X X X Warbler, Audubon's X X X X X X X X Warbler, Macgillivray's X X Warbler, Wilson's X X X X Warbler, yellow X Wren, canyon X X Wren, house X X X X X

1--Estes Park village area. 2--Gem Lake-Lumpy Ridge area. 3--Devil's Gulch-North Fork area. 4--Tuxedo Park-YMCA area. 5--Mill Creek Valley. 6--Cub Lake Valley. 7--Fern Lake Trail to The Pool. 8--Sheep Lake and Horseshoe Park. 9--Bear Lake district. 10--Trail Ridge above treeline.

APPENDIX C--COMMON AND SCIENTIFIC NAMES OF PLANTS

This list of common names and their scientific (Latin) equivalents includes only those plants that are mentioned in the text. With minor exceptions, authority for the scientific names of all plants and for the common names of all plants except trees is the second edition (1942) of _Standardized Plant Names_, edited by Harlan P. Kelsey and William A. Dayton. Authority for common names of trees is _Check List of Native and Naturalized Trees of the United States (Including Alaska)_, by Elbert L. Little, Jr. (U.S. Department of Agriculture Handbook No. 41, published in 1953.)

Trees and Shrubs

Alder, thinleaf--_Alnus tenuifolia_ Aspen, quaking--_Populus tremuloides_ Birch, water--_Betula occidentalis_ Bitterbrush, antelope--_Purshia tridentata_ Cottonwood, narrowleaf--_Populus angustifolia_ Currant, wax--_Ribes cereum_ Douglas-fir--_Pseudotsuga menziesii_ Fir, subalpine--_Abies lasiocarpa_ Honeysuckle, bearberry--_Lonicera involucrata_ Juniper, Rocky Mountain--_Juniperus scopuloram_ Maple, Rocky Mountain--_Acer glabrum glabrum_ Mountain-ash, Greenes--_Sorbus scopulina_ Pine, limber--_Pinus flexilis_ Pine, lodgepole--_Pinus contorta_ Pine, ponderosa--_Pinus ponderosa_ Raspberry, American red--_Rubus idaeus strigosus_ Raspberry, boulder--_Rubus deliciosus_ Sagebrush, big--_Artemisia tridentata_ Spruce, blue--_Picea pungens_ Spruce, Engelmann--_Picea engelmannii_ Willow, Scouler--_Salix scouleriana_

Wildflowers

Actinea, graylocks--_Actinea grandiflora_ Arnica, heartleaf--_Arnica cordifolia_ Bistort, American--_Polygonum bistortoides_ Black-eyed susan--_Rudbeckia hirta_ Buttercup, alpine--_Ranunculus adoneus_ Calypso--_Calypso bulbosa_ Columbine, Colorado--_Aquilegia coerulea_ Coralroot, spotted--_Corallorhiza maculata_ Crazyweed, Lambert--_Ozytropis lamberti_ Dryad, Mt. Washington--_Dryas octopetala_ Erysimum, plains--_Erysimum asperum_ Fireweed--_Epilobium angustifolium_ Forget-me-not, alpine--_Eritrichum argenteum_ Gaillardia, common perennial--_Gaillardia aristata_ Geranium, Fremont--_Geranium fremonti_ Globe-flower, white--_Trollius albiflorus_ Iris, Rocky Mountain--_Iris missouriensis_ Jamesia, cliff--_Jamesia americana_ Kings crown--_Sedum integrifolium_ Marsh-marigold, elkslip--_Caltha leptosepala_ Miner's candle--_Cryptantha virgata_ Monkshood, Columbia--_Aconitum columbianum_ Pasqueflower, American--_Anemone ludoviciana_ Penstemon, oneside--_Penstemon unilateralis_ Phlox, tufted--_Phlox caespitosa_ Primrose, Parry--_Primula parryi_ Pyrola--_Pyrola_ spp. Silene, moss--_Silene acaulis_ Starlily, common--_Leucocrinum montanum_ Thermopsis, spreading--_Thermopsis divaricata_ Townsendia, stemless--_Townsendia exscapa_ Twinflower, American--_Linnaea borealis americana_

U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1964--742-848

Transcriber's Notes

--This etext based on a U.S. government publication is public domain in the United States.

--Corrected a few palpable typos.

--In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.