Part 4

The chickadees--both the MOUNTAIN CHICKADEE, which remains in the park during the winter and has a typical black cap, broken by a white line above the eye, and the BLACK-CAPPED CHICKADEE, which becomes scarce in the winter--belong to the Montane zone. The VIOLET-GREEN SWALLOW is an abundant species in this zone. The MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRD arrives in "waves" during April, to leave scattered pairs to nest in holes in aspens or other cavities. It lacks the rufous breast, but has the characteristic azure color its name suggests. The WESTERN TANAGER, the most colorful bird in the park, is mainly black and yellow, with a red face. It is in the park from mid-May until August.

Nesting in this general zone, in rocky cliffs and canyons, are the GOLDEN EAGLE (seen every summer); the CANYON WREN (its characteristic "laughing" song is often heard during May and June); and the WHITE-THROATED SWIFT (which comes in early May to nest in crannies in the cliffs at the very east edge of the park, and leaves in June).

Some birds commonly nest in lodgepole and aspen forests, from about 8,500 feet upward. They include the WESTERN WOOD PEWEE, with a dark gray back, dull gray underparts, and two white bars on the long wings; the WARBLING VIREO, a migrant that arrives in a "wave" late in May; the LINCOLN'S SPARROW, streaked, with a short tail, which spends only 2 months in the park; the RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET, which appears suddenly in late April and fills the forests with its song during June; the showy AUDUBON'S WARBLER, with its fire-bright yellow spots and white wing patches; and the HERMIT THRUSH, whose songs ring through the lodgepole and spruce-fir forests and along the streams in July.

In the spruce-fir forest, nesting birds you may expect to see include the PINE GROSBEAK, a large finch, the male of which has a rich rose-red head and breast; and the BROWN CREEPER, named for its habit of creeping up tree trunks. Thickets near treeline are the nesting area of the WHITE-CROWNED SPARROW, a bird with strikingly black-and-white striped crown. It is as much at home above treeline as below, usually ready to scold all hikers who invade its territory. The WILSON'S WARBLER, with yellow body and black cap, nests in the willows at this altitude, but leaves the heights in August and returns in May.

Above the forests, on the wind-swept tundra, are some of the most interesting birds of the park. Here WHITE-TAILED PTARMIGANS spend the entire year. These alpine grouse, mottled-brown in summer, become pure white in midwinter. They assemble in small flocks in September to spend the winter together, but disperse during May and June for courtship and breeding. Nesting ptarmigans have been seen close by the busy Trail Ridge Road. Depending upon their natural camouflage for protection, they seldom show alarm when closely approached.

Ornithologists travel far to see BROWN-CAPPED ROSY FINCHES, which breed only on the high mountains of Colorado and probably northern New Mexico. Nesting in cliffs above treeline in summer, they band together in autumn to descend into the ponderosa forests for the winter. A third common bird of the tundra is the WATER PIPIT, a small ground bird, whose white-bordered tail is almost constantly in wagging motion. Pipits have an interesting courtship flight, and during midsummer are seen only above treeline, where they nest. By late August they descend to lower altitudes, not to return until June.

Even the most casual visitor notices the GRAY JAY and its cousin, CLARK'S NUTCRACKER. These members of the crow family are common at Bear Lake and at Many Parks and Rainbow Curve parking areas on Trail Ridge Road, where they compete with the chipmunks for hand-outs from motorists. The GRAY JAY, sometimes known as the Rocky Mountain jay or "camp robber," has a dull-gray body, light-gray head, and short bill. It is often seen in the company of the Clark's nutcracker, about the same size, but with a longer bill, light-gray body and white patches on black wings and tail. The nutcracker tends to range both above treeline and down into the ponderosa pine belt during summer, whereas the "camp robber" has a more restricted distribution.

The COMMON RAVEN is often observed soaring over the canyons. RED-TAILED HAWKS are fairly common--those that nest on the cliffs southeast of the visitor center are almost always to be seen in summer in Moraine Park. The robin is abundant and widely distributed in the park in summer. Flocks of robins are to be seen above treeline into October. The sleek BOHEMIAN WAXWING passes through the park in winter and early spring. Along the beaver ponds, in the willows, the showy REDWINGED BLACKBIRD may be seen from May until July.

Possibly the most unusual bird of the park is the DIPPER, or "water ouzel,"--a chunky little dark-gray bird, with a habit of bobbing up and down constantly, which is seen only near rushing mountain streams or waterfalls. It hops into rushing water and even walks submerged on the stream bottom in search of aquatic insects--a method of food-gathering that appears suicidal but actually does the dipper no harm. The mossy, dome-shaped nest is usually built where spray can keep it moist. Look for these amazing creatures at Chasm Falls, at The Pool, along Mill Creek and Glacier Creek, or in the cascades in Wild Basin.

It is hoped that this brief treatment of the birds will arouse your interest in these important members of the park's wildlife population.

Park-naturalist-conducted bird hikes are scheduled during the summer, and bird books are on sale at Moraine Park Visitor Center. Birds are an important element in the enjoyment of the park; take advantage of the opportunity to become acquainted with them.

MAN IN THE ROCKIES

At least a thousand years ago many Indians passed through the park region. Evidences of their presence are few but conclusive. Arrow points, hand hammers, and even crude pottery fragments have been collected, and some are on display in the Moraine Park Visitor Center. In the past 200 years or so, the park was the haunt of the Utes (whose main territory was west of the Continental Divide) and, latterly, of the Arapahoes who ranged the plains east of the park. Many old Indian trails have been logged in the park; Trail Ridge was named for its Indian trail.

After the United States acquired the region through the Louisiana Purchase, a number of explorers and adventurers passed near the park in their travels: Stephen Long in 1820, William Ashley in 1825, Richard Dodge in 1835, Eliza Farnham in 1839, Frederick Wislizenus in 1839, Rufus Sage in 1840, John C. Fremont in 1843 and 1844, Francis Parkman in 1846, and Frederick Ruxton in 1847. From his narrative, there is reason to think that Sage might have been in Wild Basin; if so, this would mean that he was the first explorer to set foot in what is now Rocky Mountain National Park.

On October 15, 1859, Joel Estes and his son topped Park Hill and saw what is now Estes Park. The next year, Estes settled his family in the grassy meadow--a "park" in Colorado terminology. It soon became known as Estes Park, a name in use to this day. By 1867, the Estes family claim was acquired by Griff Evans, who later transferred his rights to a British nobleman, the Earl of Dunraven.

Dunraven's influence on the region was, perhaps, more beneficial than his antagonists would have admitted. Many enterprises that would have seriously marred the matchless landscape were kept out of his feudal regime, saving (although quite accidentally) many beauty spots for later generations. He also did much to publicize the region; one of his guests was the artist Albert Bierstadt.

During the 1880's a mining boom occurred in what is now the west side of the park, leading to the establishment of Lulu City, Dutchtown, and Teller. Grand Lake had already been discovered, and a small but rather exciting community grew up on its shore, serving the needs of the new mining camps. You can see the crumbling cabins of Lulu City by taking a 3-mile hike up the Colorado River valley.

By 1910, many people began thinking of a National Park here, as that new invention, the automobile, was finally proving practicable as a means of travel. Although there were many supporters of the National Park idea throughout the land, one man--Enos Mills, naturalist, philosopher, writer--is credited with carrying the idea to a tangible result. He was rewarded for his years of hard work and innumerable frustrations when he participated in the dedication ceremonies for Rocky Mountain National Park on September 4, 1915.

CLIMATE

The climate of any part of the world is due to many forces--but basically to the amount of energy received from the sun. In mountainous areas, such as Rocky Mountain National Park, the climate is made more variable by the different altitudes, slopes, and exposure to solar radiation. Like all midlatitude regions, too, the park experiences invasions of different air masses with their varying qualities and the storms associated with their fronts.

Few frontal storms are experienced in summer. Most of the frequent thunderstorms are produced by the elevation and cooling warm air from the Gulf of Mexico as it streams into the mountains from the southeast. This season provides the great cumulus clouds that delight the photographer. During autumn, winter, and early spring the weather is determined by alternate invasions of cold Canadian air and cool Pacific air. The latter brings much snow to the western side of the park, but usually results in favorable weather on the eastern slope; the warm chinook winds are associated with these conditions. The Canadian air--usually heralded by blizzards on the plains below the mountains--brings snow and below-zero temperatures to the east slope. The winter weather at the village of Estes Park is often milder than in most of the plains country to the east, because of the protection afforded by the mountains from the full forces of these air movements.

In general, the weather is ideal for summer vacations, with cool, clear nights and sunny days. The frequent afternoon showers are mere refreshing interludes in an otherwise delightful season. The winter weather, although often rigorous, is relatively mild for the region's altitude, and, although the high Trail Ridge Road is snow-blocked, scarcely ever is it a problem to drive from Estes Park village to Denver or other plains communities.

It is always cool at night, even in midsummer, so bring warm clothes; western garb is always socially acceptable. The region is noted for its friendly informality. For hiking on trails and camping, old field clothes are desirable, and stout, comfortable shoes are a necessity. A slicker is important, since afternoon showers may be expected.

PARK SEASON

Although the park is officially open to travel all year, summer--June through September--is the "regular" season. From October until May, high-altitude roads are blocked by snow, as are most park trails in winter. All but one of the visitor centers are closed, and naturalist hikes and other activities are not scheduled after September 15. Camping is difficult from September to May because of adverse weather and limited facilities. However, the roads to both Estes Park and Grand Lake are usually open throughout winter, and accommodations are available in both gateway towns during the off-season.

WHAT TO DO

For most visitors, the park's scenic splendors are the chief attraction. There is a choice of several auto drives; and miles of trails beckon those who prefer hiking or horseback riding. A few of the principal automobile and trail trips are described below.

The park ranger-naturalist activities are popular; so is fishing, a park sport for which a State license is required. All activities within the National Park are keyed to the natural scene.

The principal winter-use area in Rocky Mountain National Park is at Hidden Valley along Trail Ridge Road, 10 miles west of Estes Park. Skiing, ice skating, snowshoeing, and platter sliding are popular here. The area is designed for family winter use, not as a typical ski resort. There are down-mountain ski runs and several practice areas so that either the expert or the novice skier will find slopes to his liking. Ski tows service popular slopes. A lodge and a warming shelter are provided at two popular locations within the area for the use of winter sports enthusiasts. Rental equipment, food service, lounge, and other facilities are available at the visitor center. Cross-country skiing may be enjoyed by the experienced skier at numerous locations on the eastern side of Rocky Mountain National Park and on the western slope in the vicinity of Grand Lake.

Here are a few photo hints: the light is intense at high altitudes; many shots are made at half the exposure needed nearer sea level. Mornings are best for pictures; afternoons are often cloudy. Use side-light for depth, and break up the foreground on long shots. Color film will not register accurately the intense light of the sky and the dark green of the forest on the same exposure. Film, filters, and other supplies are available at the gateway towns. Color slides are sold at Moraine Park Visitor Center and nearby curio shops.

Automobile Trips

Mountain driving is different from ordinary automobile travel, and presents special problems. In most of the park a speed limit of 35 miles per hour is enforced (20 m.p.h. on curves). This permits leisurely sightseeing; but do not stop on the road. Stop in a parking area and walk back to a scenic spot, if necessary. Vapor lock, which often stalls cars, is caused, in part, by driving the car up steep grades in high gear; use lower gears and keep the motor cooler. Most cars stalled by vapor lock will start after cooling off for about 10 minutes. Keep your car in gear and use lower gears, if possible, on down grades, too; do not use overdrive. Drive carefully and courteously. Gateway towns have the usual auto services.

_Trail Ridge Road._ The 50-mile drive from Estes Park to Grand Lake across the Front Range in Rocky Mountain National Park is one of America's most magnificent auto trips. Trail Ridge Road, a modern, hard-surfaced road, is usually open from late May to mid-October. For sheer scenic beauty, for easy access to the fantasies of treeline and tundra, and for a variety of natural landscapes within a few miles, Trail Ridge Road has few equals anywhere in the world.

Trail Ridge proper is a massive ridge extending easterly from the Continental Divide. In the early days an Indian trail crossed the mountains via this ridge--hence the name. The present road was built by the National Park Service in the early 1930's on a route chosen for maximum scenic possibilities and minimum snow-clearance problems.

The lofty peaks of the Colorado Rockies have been sculptured by glaciers into a bewildering network of rocky ridges, sheer cliffs, needlelike crags, and great cirques. Until roads were built, much of this breathtaking scenery was accessible only to hardy mountain climbers. Now all can see choice samples of high country from a car.

Although every mile of this road affords scenes of great interest and rare beauty, several points deserve special attention: Many Parks Curve permits close observation of the chipmunk, golden-mantled ground squirrel, and Clark's nutcracker, and excellent views of the meadows. To the north is Fall River Valley, and beyond, the towering peaks of the Mummy Range. This valley was the melting basin of a great glacier. The fine view to the south includes Longs Peak (14,256 feet), looming over the green flats of Beaver Meadows and Moraine Park. Several moraines--long, generally parallel ridges of broken rocks built up at the edges of glaciers and now heavily forested--stretch out before you, separating one park from the other.

Above Many Parks Curve, the road climbs along the north side of Trail Ridge, loops about the head of upper Hidden Valley (where skiing is in vogue during the winter), passes the 2-mile elevation sign, and reaches another parking area at Rainbow Curve, about 8 miles from Deer Ridge, and one-half mile higher in altitude. The view from Rainbow Curve is vast, open, and superb, with the Great Plains visible far to the east and forested canyons or glacial meadows nearer at hand. Many interesting geological features are pointed out on the roadside exhibit panels at this point.

Leaving Rainbow Curve, the road follows the rim of another deep canyon, passing through a ghost forest, scene of a devastating fire in the 1870's. Grotesquely formed treeline trees reflect the harsh climate at this high altitude. As the Rock Cabins are passed, a superlative view opens up to the south across Forest Canyon. For several miles the road traverses the Alpine zone tundra, carpeted during July by low-growing, colorful flowers.

Glaciated mountains south of Trail Ridge Road can be seen to best advantage from Rock Cut (altitude 12,110). Gorge Lakes, Forest Canyon, and other landscape features are indicated in roadside exhibits. If time permits, a short hike can be made over a nature trail to the nearby Roger W. Toll Memorial Peakfinder. A walk along this trail provides a rare opportunity to become acquainted with the tundra; however, the high altitude affects some people adversely, so it may not be advisable for persons with heart ailments to attempt the trip.

Iceberg Lake, which occupies a glacial cirque, was named from the presence of blocks of ice that remain on its surface even in late summer, except in extremely warm and dry years. The reddish cliffs at this point are made up of relatively recent lava, which is not common in the park. The highest point (12,183 feet, marked by a sign) is between Iceberg Lake and Fall River Pass. The pass is a popular stopping place, with restrooms, alpine exhibit room, and lunch counter.

Below Fall River Pass the road continues downhill all the way to Grand Lake. The Continental Divide is crossed at Milner Pass at an altitude of 10,758 feet, in the midst of a typical spruce-fir forest. As Far View Curve is approached, the valley of the Colorado River comes into view, and the rugged Never Summer Range looms up to the west. The road descends from this point in sharp switchback curves to reach the wide floor of the Colorado Valley. From here to Grand Lake, the route follows the valley. Deer and elk are often seen in this vicinity. The lake itself, over 250 feet deep, is one of Colorado's scenic gems. The town of Grand Lake, outside the park, is a friendly western town with the usual resort accommodations.

_Bear Lake Road._ This is a short spur road, leaving from Beaver Meadows Entrance on one of the eastern approaches to Trail Ridge through Moraine Park and Glacier Basin to Bear Lake, nestled at the foot of the high mountains. Everyone should make this trip, if time permits--an extra hour or so will do it. The road traverses glaciated meadows and moraines; it affords splendid views of Longs Peak. Great stands of aspen on Bierstadt Ridge make this a colorful drive in autumn. Bear Lake, at the end of the road--the only high lake in the park accessible by auto--is a foreground for the view up Tyndall Gorge, with the sheer cliff of Hallett Peak making a dramatic backdrop to the alpine scene. A half-mile trail encircles the lake, giving different scenic effects with every step, and nature-trail labels aid in enjoyment of the rocks, wildflowers, and trees. A short hike--a mile or so--from Bear Lake to Dream Lake gives you an opportunity to escape auto traffic and see some of the park, without undertaking too arduous a climb.

Trail Trips

You are urged to take at least one trail trip, for only on the trails can you experience the real essence of the mountains. Everyone has his favorite trail; you can make your own selection. The first decision is whether to hike or ride a horse--or to try both methods. In any case, leave your car behind for at least 1 day of your visit.

Certain rules covering trails should be observed:

_To avoid getting lost stay on designated trails. Repeated short cuts damage the trails, necessitating repairs._

_If you are hiking, yield right-of-way to horses by standing quietly off the trail as the riders pass._

_Deposit trash in receptacles; keep trails free of litter._

_If you plan to cook out, obtain a fire permit from a park ranger. This is a fire-protection regulation._

_Leave dogs behind. Their presence on trails disturbs wildlife._

With some 200 miles of trails in the park, beginning at a dozen different points and ending at scores of destinations, you may have difficulty planning your trail trips before you arrive. Information on the various trail trips is best obtained after you get to the park. The park rangers, the museum attendants, the naturalists, and the saddle-horse operators can help you outline trips.

A brief description of a few of the popular trips follows:

_Trails from Bear Lake._

One of the trail hubs of the park is Bear Lake. A "must" is the 1-mile hike to Dream Lake, near the foot of Hallett Peak. From Dream Lake you can take a primitive trail another mile to Emerald Lake in Tyndall Gorge or a developed trail to Lake Haiyaha in Chaos Canyon. Each trip is an excellent half-day hike. You may want to go along the big moraine to Bierstadt Lake, or to the top of Flattop Mountain from Bear Lake--a long, uphill climb, with a reward of marvelous views. The splendid all-day hike to Odessa and Fern Lakes begins here, too. This can be a loop trip, via Cub Lake, returning to Bear Lake; or, if you can arrange to be met in Moraine Park, an excellent 9-mile "through" hike with a minimum of uphill walking is possible.

_Glacier Gorge Trails._

A mile below Bear Lake is a parking area from which trails lead in several directions. Two short hikes--about 4 hours each--are possible from here to Lake Mills in Glacier Gorge (at the foot of Longs Peak) and to The Loch, a lovely mountain lake. From these lakes, dim "fishermen's" tracks lead on to higher and more remote lakes. From The Loch a primitive path leads to Andrews Glacier. These latter tracks are not really trails and, although easily followed, usually require some local specific information. There is also a seldom-used, constructed trail from Glacier Gorge parking area up to Boulderfield near the top of Longs Peak. This makes a good horseback trip but is not popular with hikers because the destination is so much more easily reached by the shorter trail from Longs Peak Campground. A spur from this trail leads, via Storm Pass, to Tahosa Valley.

_Fern Lake Trail._