CHAPTER III

_THE BUTTERMERE CLIMBS, AND THOSE IN OUTLYING DISTRICTS_

For strong and experienced parties of climbers, with a penchant for boating, fishing, and long mountain tramps on the ‘off days,’ Buttermere is well-nigh ideal. Moreover, the _blasé_ ‘Wastdale Header’ will find amongst the fine corrie-like combes of High Crag and High Stile, and above the great hollow of Warnscale, climbs of an entirely different nature from most of the nail-scratched, polished courses of his former haunts. Many of the Buttermere climbs are still to all intents and purposes virgin ascents. The rock of which they are formed does not take nail-marks so readily, and the blatant, scratched foothold, which positively shouts at one ‘here am I!’ is as yet an alien in these parts. The texture of the gullies is very different; it is always necessary to be on the alert for unsteady chock-stones; every hold needs testing; in fine, care and experience are essential to safe ascents.

Mr. L. J. Oppenheimer, in his book ‘The Heart of Lakeland,’ has made out a strong case for the claims of Buttermere as a centre for the more historic climbs, and justly says that ‘after Wastdale Head--though no doubt a long way after--it is one of the best centres in Lakeland.’ The Buttermere Hotel is in every way a most excellent house, and to those whose leaning is towards a simple life the farmhouses in the valley are second to none. So much granted, it is perhaps as well to review the work that has been done here, chiefly, it may be stated, by Mr. Oppenheimer and his friends and brethren of the Rücksack Club.

THE GULLIES OF WARNSCALE.--When standing in the huge, green hollow at the edge of Buttermere, one has on the north the great face of Fleetwith, with a long prominent gully almost in the centre--Fleetwith Gully. A point of the compass further round is a bulging outcrop of rock, a prominent feature in all the photographs of the Head of Buttermere. This is Green Crag, and up its left-hand side runs Green Crag Gully, reminiscent of the late J. W. Robinson, who, with Mr. W. A. Wilson, made its first ascent in 1899. To the right of this, and on the Crag itself, is an unmistakable black rift, which is now known as Toreador Gully. Further round still, and facing Fleetwith, is the well-known Haystacks Mountain. Well to the left of the striking cones which have given the mountain its name is a steep rock-face seamed by three vertical rifts, one of which forks into two branches about a third of the way up the Crags--the Y Gully. The middle rift is Warn Gill, an ‘exceptionally severe course,’ whilst the one to the right is Stack Ghyll, probably the best and most useful climb in the valley.

FLEETWITH GULLY is somewhat disappointing on close acquaintance. There are at least six pitches, but only two have any claim to individuality. These are generally moist, and are scarcely ever climbed, because they can easily be avoided on either side. Vegetation, water, and loose stones are the impressive features of the gully.

GREEN CRAG GULLY suffers from a drawback common to some others of the Buttermere climbs--in all but the driest weather a very considerable stream of water tumbles down it. As a climb it is somewhat disappointing, but the first pitch, a fine vertical rise of about 70 feet, is quite entertaining. Above this the going lacks character and is comparatively easy, although care is needed on account of the quickly disintegrating rock. Of a very different character is its companion climb, TOREADOR GULLY. After some exploration work, during which a dangerous huge block was dislodged, a party of Fell and Rock Club Members, led by Mr. H. B. Lyon, subsequently made its ascent in August 1908.

After a somewhat difficult start, the gully eases off and seductively leads the climber upward to an 80-foot wet chimney, which is the crux of the climb. The walls are set at a convenient distance apart for ‘backing up,’ and for a while all goes well. However, just when the leader, who has worked upwards with his feet on the right wall and back on the left, is beginning to feel fatigued and in need of a rest, the difficulties increase, and it becomes necessary to transfer the body across and face the opposite wall. Of anchorage there is none, but the second man can back up to below the leader, and, firmly braced across the chimney, can at least support him by the encouragement of his proximity; whether he could hold his companion in the event of a slip is somewhat doubtful. By most careful balancing, and an exceedingly anxious time for the second man, the leader can effect a lodgment facing the left wall, whence, with great difficulty, he can work over the crest of the pitch.

Above this are two obstacles of a comparatively mild nature. There is no record of a second ascent, although we understand that this climb is quite justifiable for a really strong party.

The three remaining gullies above Warnscale Bottom are those on the Haystacks, to which we have already made reference. Of these, the left-hand or Y Gully can be summarily dismissed as containing too much loose and dangerous rock. The next cleft to the right, WARN GILL, suffers somewhat from the same fault, and, moreover, is generally wet. It was reserved by Messrs. Oppenheimer, Scott, and Shaw as a _bonne bouche_ for Mr. F. Botterill to lead up, and, as the former naïvely remarks, ‘it proved rather more than difficult enough.’ After climbing six excellent pitches, one of which, a long chimney raked by a waterfall, proved to be abnormally severe, they were forced to abandon their project when about 40 feet below the top of the gully. A way of escape was found about 60 feet lower down on the right-hand side. This lay up a steep rock and heather buttress leading to a small chimney which took them to the top of the crags. The climbing throughout is of great difficulty, quite apart from the instability of some of the holds, and there is no doubt that this was a failure far surpassing in achievement many a climb which has been brought to a successful issue. It is perhaps well to note in passing that the name is a corruption of Warnscale Gill, and was not given with any idea of deterring subsequent parties.

STACK GHYLL, the next rift to the right, is a very different proposition. From below it looks most alluring. Peeping over the top of the ‘capstone’ of the first pitch is such a succession of chimneys as is bound to arouse the keenest feelings of pleasurable anticipation in a climber’s breast. One can well sympathise with the tantalising way in which this comparatively short, first pitch repelled all the earlier efforts to overcome it. All kinds of theories were evolved, but all were proved fallacious by the smooth, overhanging chock-stone. It seemed to be quite impregnable until, after repeated efforts, a small hole was found on the right of the stone. This ultimately proved to be the key to the pitch, and, as was but a just reward for many previous disappointments, Messrs. Oppenheimer and Craig succeeded in passing an ice-axe through the hole, and, by using the shaft as a handhold, emerged successful. A short time previous to this the pitch had been turned on the right, up some grassy ledges, and the gully entered fairly high up, whence it was followed to the top.

The going immediately above the first pitch is fairly easy, and leads by way of a narrow chimney, liberally supplied with chock-stones, to a small scree patch. Immediately beyond is a pretty 40-foot chimney, amenable to back and knee methods, which gives out on broken rocks. Above this an outcrop of rock bars the way, and after passing this on the left, one is soon confronted by the last obstacle.

The gully is here spanned by an unbroken wall of rock except in the right-hand corner, where is a fine cave, overhung by a huge block. This is too high to reach, but off a sturdy shoulder a handhold can be grasped on the right. A trying drag up, chiefly on the arms, then enables the leader to effect a lodgment above the pitch, in readiness for the others, who will derive much strenuous exercise unless they pocket their pride and accept a tug from the rope--an excellent gully and, if climbed during dry weather, but little inferior to the best in Lakeland.

THE BIRKNESS COMBE CLIMBS.--The wild upland hollow dividing High Stile from High Crag contains one of the many Eagle Crags of Lakeland. This is the finest rock around Buttermere, and recalls very strongly in shape, height, and general contour the famous Cyrn Lâs buttress of Snowdonia. The rock of this Eagle Crag is of a much better type, however, from the climber’s point of view, and the fine climb, BIRKNESS CHIMNEY, made in August 1903 by Mr. L. J. Oppenheimer and Dr. Norman Sheldon, is much superior to anything on Cyrn Lâs.

A good climb also is that up the prominent black rift which faces High Crag. This is known as BIRKNESS GULLY, and it affords about a couple of hundred feet of climbing, the upper part of which is fairly difficult. The initial stages are quite simple, and the interest is not fairly aroused until, high up, a huge cave, roofed in by huge boulders, is reached. About 15 feet below the dominating boulder is a huge, wedged rock which bridges the gully; the climb on to this behind sundry smaller jammed stones is very pretty. It is well for the second man to pass the leader when on a level with the main bridge and traverse outwards on to it. He can then climb up to a higher cave immediately below the great capstone and belay the rope. The leader then comes out to the bridge and scales the vertical right wall immediately above it. The holds are small but sufficient, and the proceeding is rendered safe by the rope held by the second man. Above this nothing remains save a descent to the foot of the Gully, with a view to an assault upon BIRKNESS CHIMNEY. This is a climb of great severity, and, but for the possibility of threading the rope to belay the leader at the worst part, might be dismissed as unjustifiable. As things are, however, a strong--one should perhaps say a _very_ strong--party will find great sport and a reasonable immunity from risk. The Chimney proper branches from the Gully described, at a point just below the serious climbing in the latter. It is entered by way of a steep, grassy corner, dominated by a chimney, generally moist, of about 20 feet in height.

The next pitch, a chimney, is rather more so than that passed, both as regards height and moisture. It can be obviated by the rocks on either hand, however. Above it is a steep wall of rock surmounted by a crack. The wall can be climbed direct or by way of a chimney on the left, either of which routes is interesting, but not as stiff as the crack above. Beyond this is the difficult pitch. High up, a huge mass of rock protruding from the right wall breaks the continuity of the chimney and forms a cave. Away outwards, at about the level of the cave, is a shallow groove with no bottom; the difficulty is to get into this. And a very serious difficulty it is. Fortunately a small stone is tightly jammed inside the cave, and the leader’s rope can be passed behind it. He then traverses outward, aided somewhat by his second, and after a long stretch upward, in a most awkward position, a handhold is reached. Then occurs a most strenuous arm pull, with the feet dangling helplessly, or vainly seeking support on the smooth rock-wall. Elbows, arms, and shoulders are simultaneously requisitioned ere a hold for the feet can be found in the groove. Once this is gained, however, the work is easier until the top chock-stone is reached. This demands another effort, and the pitch is vanquished.

Dr. Sheldon, who led the first ascent, was much impressed by its difficulty, and likened it to the top pitch of Walker’s Gully, which he had climbed a short time previously. There remain two more obstacles before the steep wall at the top is reached, neither of which call for special comment. Near the angle of Eagle Crag there is a long straight Gully which so far has not been climbed in its entirety. It repelled a party of exceptional strength some years ago, after an assault upon it lasting for seven hours.

BLEABERRY COMBE, carved out of the breast of High Stile, contains the small tarn whence issues Sour Milk Ghyll, beloved of the Buttermere day excursionist.

As he stands at the door of Buttermere Hotel and gazes upward at the crags above the water slide, a fine rift is open to his view. This, which by the way can also be seen from near Keswick, was the first climb made on the Bleaberry Combe Crags. It is the BLACK CHIMNEY, and was first climbed by the late O. G. Jones and J. W. Robinson (what a lot we Lakeland climbers owe to those two!) in the early days of their acquaintance.

In spite of its promising appearance it contains but two pitches, both of which are fairly simple. Further along the crag to the right, and hidden from sight of the hotel, is the CENTRAL GULLY. This lacks continuity throughout the greater part of its length, but possesses two pitches of considerable difficulty. Further round still is a long narrow chimney. At present it is known as Bleaberry Chimney, but we would suggest OPPENHEIMER’S CHIMNEY as a more appropriate name, for Mr. Oppenheimer was in the large party that first climbed it in 1908, and the fraternity will welcome this permanent means of identifying him with the fine work he has done in its vicinity. To quote his own words, ‘the chimney is the longest and most enjoyable climb on these crags.’

Two long, easy gullies on the north-west side of Grassmoor, suitable for beginners, and another on Dale Head facing Honister, complete the tale of the Buttermere climbs, which, as the famous courses around Wastdale become more familiar, are sure to attract more attention in the future, and deservedly so, than they have done in the past.

It cannot at present be said that the outlying climbs of the Lake District receive much attention, thus few of them are kept in a good state of repair. Perhaps the Borrowdale courses are most visited, notably Sergeant Crag Chimney and Mouse Ghyll. Considerable alterations have taken place in the former course since Mr. Jones’ days. The difficult central pitch, or, rather, the upper part of it, has partially collapsed. Though the ascent is much simplified, the place needs respectful treatment. At least one leader has fallen here quite recently. There is one Borrowdale climb which seems practically deserted. This is BLACK CRAG GULLY. This fine, narrow rift splits the face of the cliff at the easterly head of Troutdale, and looks very striking when seen across the Borrowdale Valley from Mouse Ghyll. Unfortunately there is a loose section almost half-way up which would prevent the ascent from being recommended except to advanced experts. The two pitches below this danger zone are quite good. The ensuing pitch, about 30 feet high, is singularly smooth, and few sound holds are available. The fall of a well-known leader not very long ago tested the strength of an alpine rope here. Luckily it was belayed around a tree, and, though in the hands of a beginner, it held securely, despite a fall of over 20 feet. Even trees on a climb may be sometimes useful. Above this dangerous portion the climb is most enjoyable, and unique for the lake views it affords.

In the early days parties of keen campers and scramblers frequented the beautiful dales around the head of ULLSWATER. But nowadays, after everything has been explored thoroughly, it cannot be said that there is much in the vicinity to attract cragsmen. On Helvellyn, St. Sunday’s Crag, and Fairfield there is plenty of indefinite scrambling to be found, but this is never continuously good, rather the reverse. Despite its huge bulk Helvellyn possesses few rocks that favour the climber. Dolly Waggon Pike, at the head of Grisedale, is the best of all. It contains two gullies which may be reached from Patterdale in about an hour and a half, or from the top of Dunmail Raise on the Grasmere side in less than an hour’s time. In these days of motor mountaineering this fact is worth remembering. The best-known course, DOLLY WAGGON PIKE GULLY, lies rather towards the westerly end of the crag, and rises, narrow and steep, just to the right of a series of big scree gullies which unite and send a conspicuous talus of scree down the mountain side. Some short introductory scrambling leads to the real climbing, where an almost vertical crack rises on the left in the true bed of the gully. A shallow scoop on the right gives the best route for about 15 feet, when it may be advisable to traverse back to the left into the crack above the steepest part. This is now followed by a patch of scree above a series of slabs, and short boulder pitches lead to the final chimney, which rises slightly on the left. About 300 feet east of this somewhat easy course there is a much more imposing opening in the crags. This was noticed many years ago by the pioneers, notably by the late Tom Westmorland, whose name all climbers remember with respect in connection with the early days on the Pillar Rock, and the building of the Westmorland cairn or Great Gable. The great rift in Dolly Waggon Pike, though often attempted, was not climbed in its entirety direct until so recently as 1910. Strange to tell, it fell to the lot of the pioneer’s son, Mr. Horace Westmorland, to lead the first party. His companion was Mr. John Mounsey. Their friends have named the place the PENRITH GULLY.

There are four difficult pitches in the gully, three of them being of the cave and jammed-boulder variety. Unfortunately a grassy terrace divides the lower pitches from the upper portion, making it easy to leave the gully above the second pitch. This somewhat spoils the continuity of the climb. The first pitch is not difficult, and may be passed directly over the chock-stone after first backing up on the left. The second obstacle is more trying. The best plan is to ‘back up’ as far as the recess under the capstone, and with the second man in this secure resting-place the leader may negotiate the awkward exit over the boulder on its right-hand side. The third or ‘Great Pitch’ starts from above the intervening ledge. Eighty feet higher a huge boulder has become jammed across the gorge, with a smaller mass below it. There is no cave below these, and as the place is very steep, somewhat smooth, and always rather wet, it ranks as much the most difficult part of the climb. A shallow scoop just to the right of the bed of the gully enables the lower chock-stone to be reached. Some anchorage is available here, and the rope may be threaded to secure the further advance of the leader. The final exposed section is best climbed to the left of the crack, which is formed between the big boulder and the left wall. The final pitch is vegetation-covered, and possesses a fine bridge-rock, but the whole of the gully is loose, and the finish somewhat unpleasant.

DOVE CRAGS, PATTERDALE.--This cliff looks tempting when seen from below the Kirkstone Pass and near the Brotherswater Hotel, which provides the best starting-point. Climbers have more than once essayed the ascent. ‘An impossible face’ and ‘an inaccessible gully’ seemed to be the only result until October 1910, when Messrs. H. Westmorland, J. Mounsey, and W. A. North discovered a complicated route up the rock-face. This was about 100 feet to the right of the really ‘inaccessible gully.’ The overhanging sections were avoided by some skilful traversing, and the situations often proved sensational. In the local newspapers it was stated that a doctor was present at the foot of the crags.

Small cairns mark the route, which, once correctly started upon, can hardly be missed, for there is scarcely another available.