CHAPTER VIII

CORRECT DRESS FOR THE SADDLE

To look well in the saddle a woman must be correctly and smartly turned out. The picturesqueness of the old-fashioned skirt, the plumed hat, and the ambling palfrey has passed away, and a woman’s riding clothes of to-day are designed, first, for comfort, and second, for neatness. Absolute plainness and everything in keeping are the principles to be followed.

For the side-saddle the habit must be well cut, well made, and of good material. The length and style of the coat should be adapted to the wearer’s height and figure.

The skirt should always be of the “safety” type. There are several different designs of safety skirts, but they may be divided into three classes--the apron skirt, the half apron, and the skirt with patent fasteners.

The apron skirt is very generally used in England, and in this country is used by many for hunting and, to some extent, for general riding. With this pattern of skirt the rider must, of course, wear boots and breeches. The skirt is entirely cut away on the side next to the horse so that, when the rider is mounted, her legs are in direct contact with the saddle. The skirt is fastened along the right leg above the knee with buttons and has a strap which passes under the right knee. There is also a strap which passes under the right foot and another strap which passes under the left heel and holds the skirt in place.

The half apron skirt is similar to this but, instead of being fastened to the right leg by buttons, it goes under the thigh and the rider sits on it.

The skirt with patent fasteners is cut just like a plain skirt, but on the right side and following the leg from the knee down there is an open seam extending around the pommels. This seam is fastened with patent fasteners when the rider is off the horse, but should be left open when she is mounted.

I consider the apron skirt the safest for use in the hunting field, for, while in my own experience I have not known of a woman being “hung up” with a skirt with patent fasteners, I have heard of this occurring. The awkwardness, however, of the apron or half apron skirt, when one is out of the saddle, makes it embarrassing for the wearer, so it is scarcely to be recommended for ordinary riding.

The half apron pattern of skirt is quite as safe as the apron and it is really more a matter of individual fancy as to which of the two one should select.

There are also skirts of the type with patent fasteners which are fastened in the same way at the waist, so that if the rider should be thrown and the skirt should be caught in the saddle, the waistband will give way and the rider will be entirely released from the skirt.

Habit skirts should be kept from blowing and “riding” by the use of two elastic loops, both on the inside of the skirt, one in such a position as to pass over the right toe, the other under the left heel. These loops should be slipped into position as soon as the rider is in place in the saddle. It is a mistake to think that there is any danger from these loops, for they are sure either to slip off the foot or to give way in case of an accident.

In the saddle a woman should produce a broad-shouldered and long-waisted effect, and the coat should be cut with this principle in mind. Unless a woman’s shoulders look wider than her hips, she will never present a smart appearance on a horse. I do not admire a small-waisted effect in the saddle. Somehow it is inappropriate and looks uncomfortable. The effect should be of broad shoulders, slimness, neatness, and ease; of long lines rather than curves.

The coat should be single-breasted, fastened with five or three buttons, according to the wearer’s figure, and also with regard to the use for which the coat is intended.

Thus in the hunting-field, whatever the rider’s figure, it is better to have five buttons, in order to protect the rider as much as possible against rain, etc. For hunting, and especially for use in cold weather and for country wear, the collar of the coat should be made to turn up and button over with a tab, and there should be a button under the left lapel, so that the coat may be buttoned closely to the neck for further protection.

With regard to length, the fashion of the time must, of course, be followed. At present it is the fashion to have coats long, so as to come about five inches above the knee when the rider is standing. Some will find it becoming to their figure to have coats even longer and some shorter, and we may hope that the days of the tight-fitting postilion coats, which make the rider look all hips, have passed forever. The collar may be of velvet of the same shade as the habit, of the material itself, or of gray, black, or tan leather, according to the color of the habit, but not of silk or satin. Personally, I do not care for leather collars and think they are too showy to be really smart. A left side breast pocket and two side pockets are permissible. It is a good plan to line the tails of the coat with rubber, so that the sweat from the horse’s back will not soak through the cloth.

The sleeves should be plain and finished at the cuffs like a man’s, or the cuffs may be turned back from two to three inches, according to the length of arm, but should never be of velvet or any material other than that of the coat itself.

Waistcoats are very smart, but not absolutely necessary. For use in the hunting field and in cold weather they are advisable, and should then be made of a rather heavy material, and, in particular, the back should be of flannel so as to protect the rider against a chill. Waistcoats may be made of various fancy or plaid materials, in heavy or light weights, which are manufactured especially for the purpose. Single-breasted waistcoats are smarter than double-breasted.

The pockets may be made with or without lapels. If the former, they should be real lapels or flaps coming over the pockets, as they are meant to wear in the hunting-field so as to prevent things in the pockets from escaping. These pockets in the waistcoat are very convenient for the watch, change, etc.

For the woman who does not ride much or is just taking it up and is not sure whether she will enjoy it, for summer use in the country and for beginners and growing children, ready-made habits of good style are to be found in the department stores.

For the woman who rides, however, it is most advisable to have a habit built by a smart tailor and made of the best materials. The cheaper materials do not give good service and lose their shape.

For winter use, some heavy material which does not stretch should be selected, such as melton, broadcloth, heavy cheviot, or heavy whip-cord, and for most women the best colors are black, black and gray, brown, dark blue, dark green, and any dark, quiet color which is becoming to the wearer. For park riding in the winter, checks, plaids, and other pronounced patterns are not suitable.

For medium weight habits for spring and fall use, there is more freedom of choice. The rider can always select something becoming in checks, medium weight gray and brown cloths, light whip-cords, and invisible stripes. The great point is to be sure that the material selected is “tailor’s cloth,” for no other cloth will stand the hard wear of riding.

For summer there is a much wider range of choice. For very warm weather, khaki, duck, crash, and linen habits are all suitable. They are all smart and cool and stand tubbing, or else can be regularly scrubbed with a stiff hand brush and bath soap. This saves the risk of their being shrunk or starched out of shape by a careless laundress. It is essential that habits for use in warm weather should be of material that can be washed, and one should be sure to have the material shrunk before it is made up, else, when the rider puts it on after its first wetting, she will probably present a “grown-up-in-the-night” appearance.

It is a very good plan with summer habits to have two skirts made for each coat, as skirts become soiled much more quickly. If one rides much in the hot weather it is necessary to have at least three summer habits, and the more one has the smarter one’s appearance.

In London in the season, and throughout England in the summer, many women wear a white linen skirt with a dark coat or a dark cloth skirt with a white linen coat. The former of these combinations is very well suited to our climate, with its constant changes, and also to the roads which have been oiled for automobiles, as the oil ruins cloth skirts, while it can be readily washed out of the linens. The combination of a dark cloth skirt and a white linen coat looks cooler than it is and is better suited to the English climate than to ours.

For rainy or cold weather a rain coat or covert coat is very serviceable. The former may be either of the material of which the English rain coats are made or of cravenetted cloth. Very few of the tailors in this country make these rain coats, so it is usually necessary to buy an imported one.

The English coats are so made as to shed the water in front of the pommels, and do not allow it to collect. They have an inner lining which fastens about the wrist with an elastic band and the collar buttons over with a tab. They, therefore, are a complete protection against the wet but, except for use in very cold storms or in snow, are too hot for general purposes in our climate.

A coat of cravenetted cloth will therefore be found, perhaps, more serviceable. If intended as a protection against the rain, it should be nearly as long as the habit on the near side, and the back should, of course, have a vent long enough to clear the cantle.

For riding in cold weather many women find it necessary to wear a top-coat, which may be made of heavy covert cloth or of rough tweed or of any suitable plain material such as a man would use.

Such a coat need not be as long as a rain coat, but may be, if the rider desires additional protection. The top-coat, of course, should be longer than the habit coat, as nothing looks worse than to see the skirts of a habit coat coming out under those of the top-coat. The top-coat may be finished just like a man’s, with patch pockets, etc., and should, of course, have a collar that will turn up and button over with a tab.

A serviceable coat for summer use in rainy weather may be made of light weight check rubber cloth, which is very smart and cooler than the imported English rain coats.

The underclothes for riding should be as carefully considered as the outer garments. Silk shirts and full silk tights are best for riding, but, if full tights are not worn, socks should be worn in place of stockings, as the latter wrinkle under the right knee and chafe. Garters, if tight, as they need to be, stop the circulation, and supporters come directly under the leaping horn. If silk tights are deemed too extravagant, silk lisle or lisle tights, or boys’ long balbriggan, lisle, or gauze merino drawers are a good substitute.

Corsets or corset waists, if worn, should be loose enough for absolute comfort and freedom, but women who are accustomed to the support of heavy stays should, when riding, wear equestrian corsets. To present a mannish appearance in the saddle, short corsets should be worn and, as I have said before, the appearance of being laced should be entirely avoided.

Either equestrian tights or riding breeches are worn, and nowadays most women prefer the latter.

A woman’s riding breeches are made on the style of a man’s and of similar material, the chief difference being that if buttons are used to fasten them below the knee, they should be placed either directly in front, which is smart but may be uncomfortable, or on the inside of the right leg, so as to avoid rubbing against the saddle. Instead of buttons, lacing may be used and, if it is, both knees can be finished alike, the same as a man’s. Two of the patterns are illustrated on page 109.

Breeches may be made of the same material as the habit or of any suitable material such as a man would wear. With a heavy winter habit it is, of course, unnecessary to use as heavy material for the breeches as would be the case if no skirt were worn. For summer use, breeches may be made of white linen, duck, or khaki.

For hunting and for rough country wear and for cold weather, doeskin breeches are most serviceable and very comfortable, and white breeches, such as men wear in the hunting field, are correct and suitable for almost any occasion.

Women who are inclined to fatness may prefer equestrian tights, made of silk or wool, to breeches.

Riding boots for women are made either stiff legged, like a man’s, or soft legged, and with or without tops. My preference is for a boot made throughout of one material, and, for some occasions, stiff legs are almost a necessity, while for others the soft legs are more comfortable.

For winter use, and for wear with black, blue, green, or very dark gray habits, black boots look much better than tan.

For the show ring and for park riding, patent-leather stiff-legged boots are correct, and are better suited to very formal occasions than plain calf boots. Patent-leather boots should always be made with stiff legs, as otherwise the varnish will crack. Plain calf boots are more serviceable and more comfortable than patent-leather for country riding, and are correct for the hunting-field. Patent-leather boots are not correct in the hunting-field, and, like most other matters of correct form, this rule is founded on common sense, for patent-leather boots tire the feet and legs, and with them the feet are apt to become very cold in bad weather. They are also easily scratched and damaged in riding over rough country.

For hunting and for polo, stiff-legged boots are correct, as they are a great protection for the legs.

Tan boots are not correct in the show ring, except for out-door shows in the summer, nor are they correct at any time in the hunting-field. They look better with summer habits, and with any light colored habit, particularly with light grays, browns, and khaki. Black patent-leather boots, hot as they are, look very smart with white linen habits.

The loose-legged boots, which resemble a jockey’s boot, are being worn now by both men and women for park and country riding, especially in summer. They are cooler than stiff-legged boots, but give scarcely any protection.

A very good type of serviceable boot for rough country wear, is one which laces over the instep and ankle, and, in its general cut, resembles the field boot or shooting boot. As these can be loosened over the instep, they do not bind the foot or bring discomfort after a long day’s wear, and they are much more comfortable for walking. They have the same objection, however, as the loose-legged boots; that is, they do not protect the leg in rough work.

Many women wear, in the country, tan laced boots or leather leggings, either of the straight kind or what are known as leather puttees. These are the same as a man’s except that the legging of the right leg should buckle on the inside, for the same reason as I have mentioned in respect to the buttons on the breeches. It is, however, much more important in the case of the leggings, as the buckles, if placed on the right side, would come directly in contact with the saddle and cause the rider great discomfort.

Whether boots or leggings are worn, they should be of a length sufficient to come well up over the breeches, but should be about two inches shorter than a man’s boot or leggings would be, because the right knee in the side-saddle is bent at much more of an angle than it is when riding astride, and if the boot is too long it is very apt to pinch the flesh between the pommel and the top of the boot.

The boots should be fastened with catgut or cord loops in the back, engaging with buttons sewed in the breeches, and one may also have straps or “garters” passing through loops in the back of the boots and attached in front by cord loops to the second button on the breeches. These loops and straps prevent the boots from slipping down and the breeches from slipping up, and from twisting.

Boots, if not made by one’s own boot maker, should be a size larger than those ordinarily worn, as boots tight in the foot, particularly of the stiff-legged kind, are, at the end of a long day, instruments of torture, and I have known of many cases where they have had to be cut off because of the feet having swollen. Whatever kind of boot is worn, it should fit very closely about the calf and should be smaller at the top so as to conform to the shape of the leg. Many women consider the fit of the boots as unimportant, not realizing to what an extent they may be seen, and how uncomfortable, too, loose boots are for walking.

Under the coat should be worn a plain or plaited shirt of any pattern or material which may suit the wearer’s fancy, provided only that it is in keeping with the general mannish style of the whole costume. Silk shirts are very suitable and quite correct at all times. The cuffs should be fastened with sleeve-links.

For neckwear I prefer white Ascot stocks. These stocks should be made of very thin material which is hard to find. The ready-made ones are usually much too thick and clumsy and cannot be tied neatly. They should never be laundered stiff, and in the front a piece of celluloid is inserted on the inside, or the stock may be worn over a stiff standing collar of the same height. The stock should be fastened with an appropriate pin. The bar pins look particularly neat.

Instead of white Ascot stocks, stocks in colors, tying in a bow, are very smart, particularly for summer, and they are not so warm as the Ascots. They come in plain colors and polka dots and are much worn in England. Of course, they look best when worn over a high standing collar.

Instead of a stock, it is equally correct to wear a high turnover or standing white linen collar with an Ascot or a four-in-hand tie, or a bow tie which is quite smart for almost any occasion. One should never wear a “ready tied” stock or tie. They are essentially bad form.

If a belt is worn it should be of plain calf leather or pigskin with a plain buckle.

While for city riding, whatever the weather, a coat must be worn; in summer in the country many women ride without one for coolness’ sake. When riding without a coat, it looks much better to wear a belt, which should pass through loops sewed on the band of the skirt.

The hair should be done plainly and low on the head, either braided or securely coiled. For young girls only, a hair ribbon, which should be black, is permissible. Be sure that the hair is arranged securely, for nothing looks worse or is more uncomfortable when riding than untidy hair.

The correct hat for use in winter is a black derby, except on very formal occasions, such as the show ring or formal park riding, when a silk hat should be worn, if becoming. If not, however, a derby is equally correct, but these are the only two hats which are correct for formal riding. A silk hat is also worn in the hunting field, where it is strictly correct. Many women wear in the hunting field a specially constructed stiff derby intended as a protection to the head in the case of a fall, or of coming in contact with branches.

Many women find the “Continental” hat more becoming than the derby, and it is perfectly permissible for all but very formal occasions. It is never, however, correct in the show ring or in the hunting field.

For all occasions when a habit of a color other than black, dark blue, or dark green is permissible, a derby hat may be worn of a shade to match the habit. Thus, a light or dark brown derby, if becoming, looks very smart with a light or dark brown habit, and a gray hat with checks.

For summer wear the plain straw or black sailor or Panama is correct for all occasions, but the Panama, if worn, should be perfectly plain and, particularly, should have a plain ribbon. These styles of hats are much better suited for wear with linen or crash habits than derbys or Continentals. For wear in the summer the sombrero is comfortable, but I do not consider it very fit.

All riding hats should be large enough to set well down on the head, like a man’s, and should be kept in place by a rather broad elastic. If this is sewn a trifle nearer the front of the hat than usual, it will hold the hat better than if sewn exactly in the middle.

Hat pins should never be used in riding. They look out of keeping, and in case of an accident are very dangerous. It is quite correct to wear a hat guard, but it should be of the kind that fastens to the back brim of the hat, with the hanger inside of the coat collar, and the hanger should be short enough to keep the hat, if blown off the head, from striking the horse. This precaution is very important, as I have often known of horses starting to run from being struck by the hat.

Riding gloves should either be tan, dog-skin, white buckskin, or white chamois. They should be heavy, hand sewn, have either one or two buttons, and should be a size or two larger than those usually worn.

White gloves are correct for all occasions, and I think look smarter than tan. They should always be worn with white habits.

For the hunting field and the show ring, heavy white buckskin gloves are strictly correct, but they do not wash well and, as they have to be pipe-clayed to look white, the pipe-clay comes off on one’s habit and proves very annoying. I have found white chamois gloves the best for use as they can be washed while on the hands in tepid water with a scrubbing brush and bath soap. When dry they should be put on, rubbed softly together, and they will then be practically as good as new. Buckskin gloves should be kept on trees to dry after washing or they will lose their shape and shrink.

Driving gloves which are reinforced over the fingers where the reins are held in driving, are not suitable for riding. They are too stiff and clumsy and one loses the “feel” of the horse’s mouth.

It is always correct to carry either a whip, stock, or crop, and it is advisable to do so, both because the horse may need punishment and in order to give the right hand something to do.

Light cutting whips are best when riding a green horse or one that is apt to require punishment. Crops, of course, should always be carried in the hunting field, and for other occasions plain sticks are equally correct.

It is not safe for a woman, unless she is an experienced rider, to wear a sharp spur, and one should never be worn except with an open skirt, as it is almost certain to catch in a plain skirt. The spur, if worn, should be plain and of the same pattern as a man’s.

No jewelry should be worn in riding except the pin in the tie and the cuff links.

The under dress for cross-saddle riding should be the same as for the side-saddle. For the outer dress the only style that I consider correct is loose riding breeches, polo legged boots, and a long coat. The divided skirt always looks to me out of place, and any woman who wants to wear a skirt had better ride in the side-saddle. For a long riding trip in the mountains or for roughing it or for any occasion when a woman is apt to have to walk as well as to ride, a short divided skirt, coming only to the knees, such as Western women wear, is appropriate, but I should not consider it appropriate for ordinary riding in the East.

Stiff boots are preferable to leggings because they do not show the shape of the leg and are more of a protection than soft legged boots. The boots should be as long as a man’s for cross-saddle riding and should show three buttons on the breeches. They should be tight in the leg and fastened in the way I have described on page 121.

The breeches should be cut exactly like a man’s except that they should be more baggy above the knees. They must fit very closely at the seat and about the waist and should fit very tightly below the knee. They should always be reinforced with buckskin on the inside of the knees. Appropriate breeches are shown in the illustration on page 109.

The coat should be single-breasted, with three or five buttons, according to the wearer’s figure and personal fancy, and rather loose fitting, quite long, with very full skirts coming below the knee when mounted. The skirts of the coat are kept in place by a tab which engages with the third button from the top on the breeches, just above the boots. The coat should be opened enough in the back to clear the cantle, so that the skirts will fall on either side of the horse. With the skirts so fastened at the knees, the thighs and upper legs are concealed and nothing is visible but a smart boot.

I consider this far the smartest, the most comfortable, the most modest, and the safest costume for cross-saddle riding.

In the following list will be found the average price for all riding clothes, etc., each good of its kind:

Cloth riding habit $75.00 to $100.00 Linen and flannel habit 45.00 to 60.00 Waistcoat 10.00 to 15.00 Covert coat 45.00 to 55.00 Rain coat 40.00 to 45.00 Tights 1.00 to 20.00 Socks, ½ doz. pairs 1.50 to 6.00 Equestrian tights 1.50 to 2.50 Riding breeches 10.00 to 18.00 Boots (ready-made) 12.00 to 15.00 Boots (made to order) 20.00 to 35.00 Boots, laced and strapped 25.00 Leggings 10.00 to 15.00 Riding stocks, ½ doz. 3.00 to 6.00 Shirt waists, ½ doz. 12.00 to 30.00 Linen collars, ½ doz. .75 to 3.00 Neckties (each) .50 to 2.00 Belt .50 to 2.00 Silk hat 8.00 to 10.00 Derby hat 4.00 to 5.00 Sailor hat 3.00 to 5.00 Panama hat 10.00 to 30.00 Sombrero 5.00 to 15.00 Hat guards .50 to 1.00 Gloves 1.00 to 2.50 Riding crops 2.00 to 10.00 Whips 3.00 to 5.00 Sticks 1.00 to 5.00