Part 6

NOTE.--This can be best cooked in double boiler, as it is very ready to catch the pan.

Vegetable Mould.

Cut finely about 6 ozs. each of turnip and carrot, and 3 ozs. shallots, and stew till just tender in stock or gravy to barely cover. Steaming is better, as the vegetables should not be broken down. Add some cooked cauliflower cut small, a cupful of cooked green peas or French beans, and 3 or 4 tomatoes sliced and cooked. Mix in 2 ozs. bread crumbs, and the same of cooked savoury rice, semolina, or tapioca, and cook a little longer. Press into a dish--an oval cake tin does very well. When cool turn out, see that it is neat, and brush all over with glaze. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg and

Tomato Aspic.

This jelly comes in useful in many ways. Take 1 tin tomatoes and rub through a sieve. Make up with clear stock or water to 1 pint--2 breakfastcupfuls. Have 1/6-oz. Agar-agar (Vegetable Gelatine) soaked for an hour in cold water, pour off the water, add to the tomato pulp, and put all in enamelled saucepan along with any additional flavouring required. Salt and white pepper will do nicely, but a blade of mace, some mixed herbs, and a few Jamaica peppercorns may be used. Add also the whites and shells of two eggs, unless you have a number of egg shells, in which case the whites may be dispensed with. Whisk steadily over the fire till it boils, then draw to the side and allow to simmer gently for 10 minutes. Pour twice through jelly-bag. The second time run half on to a flat ashet or some plates. Colour the rest with a little carmine and put to set also. When used as a garnish, stamp out in pretty shapes, and arrange with the red and amber alternating. For

Glaze

dissolve 2 tablespoonfuls of the clear tomato aspic in saucepan. Add 1/2 teaspoonful "Marmite," or 1 teaspoonful "Carnos" extract, mix thoroughly, and boil up. Allow to get nearly cool, but not beginning to set, and then brush over the mould with it.

Mock Calf's Foot Jelly.

Prepare according to directions given for tomato jelly, and just before straining add amount required of a good extract. One oz. "Marmite"--or 2 teaspoonfuls--or 1-1/2 ozs. "Carnos" to a pint of tomato jelly, would be a good proportion. Stir till dissolved. Strain and mould in the usual way.

It may of course be prepared without extract, by making a good strong stock. Vegetables may be used or not at discretion. The liquor strained from haricots, brown beans, or German lentils, with vegetable gelatine, in the proportion of 1/8-oz. to the pint, makes a delicious jelly. Care must be taken to see that none of the pulp gets through. Clarify and strain very carefully.

Legumes en Aspic.

Get an equal quantity of red, white, and green vegetables--say young carrots, tomatoes, turnips, cauliflower, green peas, French beans, &c. Have each cooked "to a turn" separately, and the carrots and turnips cut into neat shapes, cauliflower in tiny sprigs, &c. Arrange the vegetables as neatly as possible in a mould, and fill up with tomato jelly. When set, turn out and garnish with slices of fresh tomato and lemon.

It is not necessary to have a number of different vegetables for this dish. Any one or two of them will do quite well. The mould might be decorated with slices of beetroot or hard-boiled eggs.

Tomato and Egg Savoury.

Boil hard 4 eggs, cut in half, and remove yolks. Divide 4 good-sized, firm, ripe tomatoes in halves, and scoop out some of the pulp, leaving a nice case. Put the half whites inside the tomato shells and fill with the following mixture:--In a saucepan melt 2 ozs. butter, add tomato pulp, 1 oz. fine crumbs, the yolks rubbed through a sieve, a teaspoonful extract, salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice. Mix well and make quite hot. Fill in the little cups, piling it up cone-wise, and serve on a bed of aspic.

Raised Haricot Pie.

Prepare a raised pie case (see Pastry), put in a layer of cooked haricot or butter beans, a layer of sliced tomatoes, and one of hard-boiled eggs. Put on the lid, which should have a hole in the centre. Bake, and with a funnel fill in with dissolved savoury jelly. This is delicious to eat cold, and is very useful for pic-nics. The same ingredients may also be made into small pies or bridies.

POTTED SAVOURIES.

There is an unlimited variety of these to be had. Any of the savoury mixtures given in previous recipes for stews, sausages, &c., will do, but if to be kept for any length of time, it must be well seasoned, the different ingredients thoroughly blended or pounded together, and the mixture pressed into small jars or glasses with clarified butter or pure vegetable fat poured over. A little lemon juice and grated lemon rind will give a piquant relish to most of these potted "meats."

Haricot Paste.

This is very good, and is a handy way of using up cold haricots, butter beans, &c. Drain away any sauce, or add as much finely mashed potato or cold boiled rice as will absorb it. Add seasoning to taste--mace, made mustard, ketchup, "Extract," &c. Mix thoroughly and pass through a sieve to remove skins, stringy portions, &c. Some tomato is always an improvement, and if none has been cooked with the beans, put some in saucepan with a little butter and cook for 10 minutes. Add the haricots, &c., blend together over the fire, and pass through sieve while hot.

Lentil Paste

is made by using cooked lentils in place of the beans.

Tomato Paste.

Peel and cut small 1/2 lb. tomatoes. Put in saucepan with 1 oz. butter, a teaspoonful grated onion, and seasoning to taste--made mustard, celery salt, lemon juice, ketchup, "Extract," &c. Each or all of these are good. Stir over the fire till the tomato is nearly cooked, then add one egg, and stir round till all is smooth and thick. Add 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs or 1 of cold cooked rice, macaroni, &c., previously put through a sieve or masher. Remove to side of fire and stir in 2 ozs. grated cheese. Mix very thoroughly and pot.

Tomato Paste (2).

For immediate use the following is specially good. It may be used as a savoury, and makes a delicious filling for sandwiches. Take some firm, ripe tomatoes, free from skin and seeds, and cut up small. Allow 1 oz. grated cheese to every 4 ozs. tomato--some may prefer more cheese in proportion, but that is a fair average. Put in a strong basin with seasoning--made mustard or pepper, ketchup, a little "Marmite" or "Carnos," &c., and pound to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon. Pass through a sieve, and it is ready for use.

Brawn for Pic-Nic.

Take a small teacupful lentils, haricots, or butter peas, and rub through a sieve. Cook 2 ozs. flaked rice or semolina in a teacupful boiling stock for about 10 minutes, stirring all the while, and then 1/2 lb. or more of tomatoes sliced and cut small, dessertspoonful grated onion, some finely shred cooked carrot or beetroot, and seasoning. Add the lentils to this and mix thoroughly. Cook for a minute or so, remove from the fire, and mix in 2 finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. Press into a glass dish. It may be covered with glaze when turned out, or decorated with aspic jelly.

Tomatoes and Mushrooms,

gently baked or steamed together, with butter and seasoning, are also very good as a cold savoury for sandwiches; &c. If rather moist add a little cooked rice, mashed potato, or fine crumbs. Pound together, pass through a sieve if wished very smooth, and pot as above.

Sandwiches.

A good filling for sandwiches is to be found in any of the "potted meats" given in the foregoing section. Amongst others are

Egg Sandwiches.

These are usually made with finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. The latter alone may be used, or a little relish of some sort may be added--ketchup, tomato pulp, or chutney. Mix all to a smooth paste before using, and spread very evenly.

Egg Sandwiches (2).

Another very good way is to beat up the eggs a little, add seasoning, &c., put a bit of butter in saucepan, pour in the eggs, and cook gently till set. Stir all the time. Use when cold.

Water-Cress, Mustard-and-Cress,

and all salad vegetables are suitable for sandwiches. Most people will prefer them simply with bread and butter, so that the individual flavour may be appreciated. If any, such as lettuce or endive, are considered rather insipid, a little relish may be added as above. A tasty and novel flavour is obtained by spreading a very little Marmite Extract on the bread and butter before adding the filling proper.

Tomato Cheese Sandwiches

are among the best. The filling may be either the Tomato Paste given under Potted Savouries, or the mixture given for Scotch Woodcock or Mock Crab.

VEGETABLES.

It may seem rather supererogatory to speak of "Vegetables" distinctively, for the "unregenorate" will be inclined to declare that we have been discussing nothing else all the while. But for the benefit of such as are like the advertised domestic "willing to learn," I would say that vegetarians as a rule use fresh vegetables practically in the same way as meat eaters do, to supplement more substantial viands. No one--to my knowledge at least--ever dines off the proverbial cabbage or turnip--perhaps it would be better if they did now and then--but, that by the way. But there are vegetables _and_ vegetables. No one who has gone in for the most elementary food reform will tolerate the sodden, soap-like potatoes, or the flabby, insipid, brown papery-looking stuff, called by courtesy cabbage, which so often does duty as companion to beef, mutton, or pork. Perhaps, though, the savoury cow or pig throws a halo over all the defects of its surroundings. Be that as it may, there is need for improvement in many ways, and by this I do not mean more elaboration in dressing or serving, for this is not seldom used to disguise shortcomings which otherwise could not escape notice. But disguising defects does not remove them, and we should do well to safeguard ourselves by having our food cooked as simply and naturally as possible.

The homeliest vegetables, too, if sound, ripe, and wholesome, are infinitely to be preferred to the rare expensive sorts forced out of season or gathered barely ripe and conveyed long distances to whet jaded palates. Well, to begin with that vegetable we are supposed to live on,

Cabbage.

This may either be a choice delicacy or an unmitigated abomination. It should be fresh, green, crisp and tender, and as newly pulled as possible. Those who have gardens should leave it growing till half-an-hour before cooking. When it must be kept for some time, see that it is in a shady, cool place, and an hour or two before using; remove any tough or withered leaves, split up the stalk well into the heart, if to be used whole, and lay in a large basin of cold water. Add a handful of salt and two tablespoonfuls vinegar to each gallon of water. Although freshly pulled all leafy vegetables should be soaked in this way to remove any caterpillars, slugs, &c., for even eaters of pig and ox have a curious objection to animal food on a small scale. To cook, have ready a good-sized saucepan with fast-boiling water containing a little salt, and if the cabbage is at all old or tough, a bit of washing soda the size of a hazel nut, to each quart of water. Drain very thoroughly from the water in which soaking, and plunge into the fast-boiling water. It is most important that the water should not go off the boil as then the juices would be drawn out and wasted. Boil steadily with the lid off for 10 to 20 minutes according to age, then lift into drainer on top of the boiling water and cook till tender in the steam. Serve on hot vegetable dish with some bits of butter on the top. It should be perfectly tender, yet crisp and of a vivid green. If at all brown, or dull, or flabby-looking, there is something wrong, either with the vegetable itself or the cooking. And I am not to give directions for "doctoring" anything that is either unwholesome or spoiled. A paragraph has been going the round of certain papers lately, giving directions for disguising the flavour of tainted meat, which "few cooks know how to treat so as to render perfectly nice"! It is to be wrapped in vinegar cloths, &c.--"boil up, and use it." I should say doctor it as you please, but then--throw it away! If anything, no matter what, goes bad--milk, soup, vegetables--throw it out without hesitation. It is a pity to waste things--and this ought to be prevented by good management--but surely it is much greater waste to use tainted food. Better miss a meal, if need be, than make a refuse bin of our bodies. All this may seem a digression, but I am so thoroughly convinced that a large proportion of the "ills that flesh is heir to"--and we accept the inheritance with a resignation "worthy of a better cause"--is due to unsound or improperly prepared food, that I make no apology. Many people have told me that they daren't touch certain vegetables, and when I have seen these as served by them have cordially agreed with them. The most common error, especially with green vegetables, like

Cabbage, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Greens, &c.,

which all require much the same treatment, is over-cooking. There seems to be a popular notion, somehow, regarding vegetables, that the more you cook them the better they are, and after all the substance and flavour has been boiled out of them, people wonder how anyone can relish such stuff! Each vegetable should get just the bare amount of cooking necessary, and no more. If they have to wait for some time before serving, stand over boiling water as directed above. Most vegetables may be cooked entirely by

Steaming.

This conserves all their own juices which contain the various valuable natural salts, alkalies, &c., so necessary to health, and which we so vainly try to make up by the addition of crude minerals.

Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes,

and all root vegetables and tubers, are best cooked by steaming. Steamers with perforated bottoms to fit the various sizes of saucepan are now to be had from any ironmonger. A very good way to cook carrots, turnips, and parsnips, is to make up a good white sauce, put in Queen pudding-bowl or some other such dish, lay in the carrots, parsnips, &c. Cover and steam till cooked. If rather old, they may first be par-boiled. This should be done before the skin is removed.

Beetroot

should always be steamed by preference, but quite as much care must be taken not to break any of the fibres, or it will "bleed" as in boiling. When tender, which will take from two to four hours, pare and cut in slices. It may either be dressed with vinegar, lemon juice, &c., to serve cold, or fried and served with white or tomato sauce as a hot vegetable.

Green Peas

may also be steamed in a jar or basin like stewed fruit. A very little water and a little lemon juice should be added. If to be boiled, have a small saucepan with fast boiling water to barely cover, a little sugar, salt, lemon juice, and sprig of mint. Boil fast till tender. Drain and serve with butter only.

French Beans

may be cooked in same way. Remove stalks and "strings" and cut across diamondwise.

Broad Beans, Kidney Beans, &c.,

usually require to have the tough white sloughs removed. To facilitate this, pour boiling water over, when they may be slipped off quite easily. Cook same as green peas.

To Re-heat Peas, &c.,

Put a little butter in saucepan, a finely minced shallot or spoonful grated onion, and some tomato free from skin and seeds. Simmer till cooked, lay in the vegetables to be warmed up. Make thoroughly hot and serve.

Cauliflower.

Trim and lay in cold salt water for some time, then boil or steam till just done. Trim off all the green leaves--it is best not to do this before cooking, as it is not so ready to break--lay in vegetable dish, and pour white sauce over.

Cauliflower au Gratin.

Prepare exactly as above. Coat with the sauce, sprinkle all over with bread crumbs or grated cheese, or a mixture of both, put some butter in little bits over it, and bake a light-brown in moderate oven.

Artichokes.

These may be cooked same as cauliflower, but require longer time. Cut the stalk off quite bare, and trim the leaves with scissors where necessary. By way of variety the centre part may be removed and the cavity filled with forcemeat or sausage filling. Serve with white sauce.

Jerusalem Artichokes.

Wash well, pare neatly, and lay in cold water and vinegar to cover. Have ready some boiling water with a little salt and some milk. Boil gently till tender--15 to 20 minutes. Drain, and serve with white sauce.

Fried Artichokes.

Parboil lightly, dry, dip in beaten egg, then toss in bread crumbs or a mixture of crumbs and grated cheese. Fry in smoking hot fat, and serve very hot on a napkin.

Fried Celery.

Prepare exactly as above. The pieces should be about 5 or 6 inches long. Pile up crosswise in serving.

Stewed Celery.

Wash and trim the celery into short lengths and allow to soak in vinegar and water for an hour or so before cooking. Drain, and parboil in water containing a little salt and lemon juice or vinegar for 10 minutes. Drain again, and stew for another 10 or 15 minutes in some good white stock. Do not throw away the water in which celery, cauliflower, peas, &c., are boiled. It can be added to the stock-pot. Meantime toast a slice of bread, dip it in this celery water, and lay on ashet cut in triangles. Lay the celery on this when cooked, make the stock in saucepan into a good sauce with flour and butter, and pour over.

Seakale

is rather scarce and expensive as a rule, but it is well to know how to cook it when occasion offers. It is a choice delicacy for an invalid or convalescent. Soak in salted cold water for a time, trim neatly and cook till tender--about half-an-hour in fast boiling water containing a little salt and lemon juice. Drain, and serve on toast with white sauce over.

Asparagus.

Wash well in cold water and scrape the stalks white. Tie in small bundles and stand in fast boiling salted water till the stalks are tender--about twenty minutes. Drain, and serve like celery.

Salsify,

or vegetable oyster, is another vegetable which would find great favour were it not so scarce and dear. Scrape the roots and throw into cold water. Cut in 2-inch pieces and simmer gently for an hour or till tender in stock with a slice of lemon, or in milk and water. Lift out the salsify and place on toast. Thicken the liquor with butter and flour and pour over.

All vegetables which are served with white sauce or melted butter can be acceptably served

Au Gratin,

and a dish of carrots, turnips, and the like served in this way is quite a delicacy. Young tender vegetables are of course always to be preferred, but even when rather old are better this way than any other. Cook till quite tender, but not in the least broken. Lay in a pie dish, cover with sauce, coat thickly with crumbs or cheese and crumbs. Dot over with butter, and bake a light brown.

Spinach.

Soak in cold water and rinse very well to remove all grit, &c. Trim away stalks and tough fibre at the back of the leaf. Shake the water well off, and put in dry saucepan with lid on, to cook for about 10 minutes. Drain, chop finely, and return to saucepan with some butter, salt and pepper, to get quite hot. Dish neatly in a flat, round, or oval shape, with poached eggs on top, and croutons of toast or fried bread round.

Cauliflower--Dutch Way.

(Mr VAN TROMP.)

Boil cauliflower in usual way, drain, and put in vegetable dish. Coat with this sauce:--Make a cream with 2 spoonfuls potato flour, add a little sugar, and stir over fire till it thickens.

SALADS.

"Cucumbers,--Peel the cucumber, slice it, pepper it, put vinegar to it, then throw it out of the window."_--Dr Abernethy._

One does not need to be a vegetarian to appreciate salads, and many who find cooked vegetables difficult of digestion, will find that they can take them, with impunity, raw, but it is inadvisable to take raw and cooked fruit or vegetables at the same meal.

Raw Cabbage,

for example, digests in little over an hour, while cooked it takes 3 to 4-1/2 hours. Needless to say, only young, tender, freshly pulled cabbage can be used in this way. Shred finely, removing all stalks and stringy pieces, and cover with the usual salad dressing. This may now be had ready for use in the shape of

Florence Cream,

but if wanted to be made at home, take equal quantities of finest salad oil and either lemon juice or vinegar and mix together gradually by a few drops at a time. A little cream or yolk of egg beat up is an improvement, and ketchup, made mustard, &c., may be added to taste. The dressing may be prepared beforehand, but should be put on just before sending to table.

Cold Slaw

is a favourite American salad. Shred the cabbage as above and sprinkle liberally with salt. Allow to remain for at least 24 hours, turning occasionally. Drain and use with lemon juice or salad dressing.

Tomato Salad.

Shred down a crisp, tender lettuce. Put in salad bowl. Scald and pare some firm, ripe tomatoes. Slice and cut up--not too small. Mix with lettuce. Pour over a simple dressing. Some slices of hard-boiled egg may be used as a garnish, or the white may be chopped up and the yolk grated over at the last. Tomato aspic is also a tasteful addition. Chop up and put lightly over. This salad or plain lettuce may be varied by adding almost any tender young vegetable, shred fine. Scraped radish, young carrots, turnips, cauliflower, green peas, very finely shred shallot or white of spring onion, chives, cress, &c., are all good, and may be used according to taste and convenience. A good

Winter Salad

can be made with celery, endive, &c., and of course with cold cooked vegetables. These latter should be cooked separately, and mixed tastefully together with an eye to colour and appearance. Raw and cooked vegetables should never be mixed in the same salad, or indeed eaten at the same meal.

SAUCES.

"Hunger is the best Sauce."

"England" has been slightingly defined by a French gourmand as a country of fifty religions and only one sauce! If this be true of those who have all the resources of the animal kingdom at their disposal, what can be the plight of those from whom these are shut out. This "one sauce" was, I believe, melted butter, or as it is more generally now called

White Sauce,

and it is not every one who can make even that plain sauce as it should be. The thin, watery mixture, or grey "stodgy" mass which is sometimes served with cauliflower or parsnips, even where the other viands are fairly well cooked and served, is certainly enough to condemn "vegetables." Yet, how simple it is if done the right way. In a small saucepan--preferably earthenware or enamel, for it must be spotlessly clean and smooth--melt 1 oz. butter, and into that stir 1 oz. flour. When quite smooth add by degrees a teacupful milk. Stir till it thickens, and allow to cook for a minute or two longer. It must be done over a very gentle heat--the side of the range, or gas stove turned low. If wanted more creamy, use more butter in proportion to the flour. Salt and pepper to taste. To make

Parsley Sauce,

add a spoonful of finely chopped and scalded parsley to this just as it comes a boil; and for

Caper Sauce,

add some finely chopped capers or fresh nasturtium pods in same way.

Tarragon Sauce.

Add 20 to 30 drops Tarragon vinegar to prepared white sauce. Stir well.

Dutch Sauce.

To a creamy white sauce made with 2 ozs. butter to 1 oz. flour, add one, two, or three yolks of eggs according to richness desired. Beat up a little, add a very little cold milk to prevent curdling. Stir into sauce when off the fire. Allow to come just to boiling point again--this should be done in double saucepan or boiler--and add a little lemon juice.

Dutch Sauce (2).