CHAPTER XXXVI

KEEPING THE CAR SLEEK

Of course, if one does not care for appearances, and has no pride in the bright and shiny varnish of the body and in the absence of rustiness of the top, and thinks because the engine is under the hood no one will see that it has been neglected, this section will not particularly interest the reader. But, on the other hand, if these things count, and the owner understands that true economy consists in keeping not only the running parts in condition, but everything else at the top notch of perfection, then he will heed the advice herein.

Just because it does not show to the passer-by, many think that the appearance of the engine does not count; that it is not essential that it be kept free of oil, grease, dust, and corrosion of iron and brass. Get this idea out of the head instanter. It is false and has much to do with breakdown and wear-out of the motor. The cleaner it is kept the longer will it run satisfactorily, both as to troubles and to length of life. One may well err on the side of cleanliness rather than be somewhat slovenly. The motor ought to be cleaned off on the outside after any lengthy trip, or after any run when roads are dusty, or oily, or sandy.

One may be as particular as possible, yet there will be some oil or grease on the motor exterior. Probably that which lodges upon the cylinders will, if there is much hill climbing to heat the motor unduly, make itself visible and smellable—visible in a thin streak of smoke coming from the hood, and smellable to the point of offensiveness when that streak of smoke strikes the olfactory nerves. But in most instances it will remain upon the engine, gradually becoming a gum from the drying up of the substance and the accretion of dust from the road. The longer it remains the harder it is to remove it; hence when the work is done in the garage every time the car comes in, it will take but a few minutes and slight labor; while if allowed to accumulate, it may mean hours’ work to get rid of the hard deposit.

Sufficient instruction has been given as to the care of the working parts of the motor, so that only the exterior need be considered at this time. Begin at the top. First of all see that the wire terminals at the spark plugs are free from corrosion and grease. They should be dry and clean if they are to transmit the current to the plugs. Usually the wires are carried in a tube to protect them from heat and grease, but not always. In any event, trace along the wires to see that oil or grease is not present upon them. Either will rot the rubber insulation and cause a leak which will affect the ignition. Examine all the terminals under the hood for the same purpose, and every once in a while disconnect the wires one by one and scrape the terminals bright, also the contact point where terminal is fastened. Replace the wires one by one as you clean them so they will not become disarranged. See also that there is no oil, grease, or dirt on the spark plugs, for it might form a sufficient path for current to practically short-circuit the plug.

Wipe off the top of the cylinders and blow out accumulations of dust from any recesses where it has collected. If there is thickened or gummy oil upon the metal, which will not wipe off readily, saturate the waste or cloth in gasoline at the carburetor drip cock, and it will loosen up quickly. Gasoline is more convenient, but kerosene will do the work better, leaving a surface less likely to rust. In the same way clean the exterior of all the parts of the motor and everything attached to it. Where the brass shows corrosion, use a cleaning compound to remove it. Brass may be kept from corroding in wet weather by coating it with whiting. Several good compounds also are sold for this purpose. Bright iron parts may be kept from rusting by wiping them with a rag dampened with a thin oil, which should be wiped off regularly, and there never should be enough to show.

The fan, fan belt, pulleys, gear casings, and other parts at the front end collect much dust and should be kept clean. The air holes through the radiator, also, must be kept free of dust, oil, and asphalt from oiled roads. In fact every part under the hood needs frequent cleaning.

There are some parts of the chassis and undergear which will not be readily reached by the hose and water when cleaning the body; therefore they should first be rubbed off and cleaned of dirt, grease, and accumulations of asphalt from oiled roads, or mud. Do this while the space under the car is dry, and if it is done regularly it will not be difficult to keep this part of the car in order. The parts of the various rods and rocker shafts, and particularly near the bearings, should be kept clean.

If one will make a “creeper” from which to work when getting under the car, it will remove most of the objections which drivers have to “getting under.” Take a board of twelve inches wide and five feet long and mount casters which move freely under it. At one end place an inclined head or shoulder rest a foot long and with four or five inches’ rise. Then cover the upper side with carpet, padded to make it comfortable. Lying down upon this, one may move about under the car in ease and get at all the mechanism readily. It is not only good for cleaning time, but when inspecting or oiling, or tightening up the bolts and nuts and bearings which may be reached only from beneath the car. It also keeps one off a wet floor or ground.

Next take a hose, if one be available, and play it freely all over the body and running gear, fenders, mud guards, wheels, with care, of course, that the upholstery be not sprinkled too much. Do a thorough job with the hose but do not use a powerful stream upon the highly polished surfaces. It will not only take off dust but loosen up mud, and the force of the spray will take off fresh accumulations of asphalt from mud guards and chassis. Then with the hose playing ahead, use a soft sponge to go over all the parts to remove any remaining dirt and rinse down with water alone. Next, with cloth and chamois dry the woodwork and other painted surfaces until they shine.

Where mud and asphalt are dried and refractory, other means must be taken to remove them before rinsing and drying. Mud may be softened by holding a saturated sponge over it for a few moments. If the mud be mixed with oil or grease so that water does not soften it, kerosene will, and it does not take much of it. Kerosene also will soften the asphalt which clings to the car. Grease and oil also yield to kerosene, which should be wiped off and the painted parts polished with a cloth dampened with linseed oil. Naturally this should be wiped off completely so that it would not become a dust catcher.

Do not use soap on the highly polished surfaces of the body. Most soaps have free alkali—lye—in their composition, and while this makes them cut dirt and grease fast, it injures the varnished surface, in a short time wearing off the gloss. Washing is the better done when the hose only is used. In the country, where a hose is not available, the washing will be slower, since the water in a pail must be renewed frequently and the sponge rinsed practically every stroke to rid it of grit. Where it is possible to run a line from tank to the garage, or, if there is no tank, from an elevated barrel, which can be filled with a force pump, it should be done.

There are various preparations sold for renewing the surface of auto bodies after it begins to dull. Good gloss should last a year with care, especially if it be wiped over occasionally with a soft cloth dampened with a mixture of linseed oil and a little high-grade carriage varnish—a half pint to the gallon of oil. As there is a wide variation in both ingredients, if the mixture seems sticky when rubbed between the fingers or when applied to the car surface, add considerably more oil, as it is not intended as a new covering for the paint, but to freshen up the varnish.

Mohair tops need to be dusted with a moist sponge, using also soapsuds if spotted with oil or grease. Leather and its imitations may be kept in good condition if oiled occasionally or treated with one of the good preparations sold. The top should be dried before folding down. After driving through a shower let the top stay up until sun and wind have dried it thoroughly. Care in folding will lengthen the life of the top. Freedom from cracks and creases will mean a dry top, to insure which is worth any amount of trouble.

Keeping the car covered when in the garage pays, for dust will blow in and settle over all parts. The upholstery also may be protected by slip covers, which should be kept on during dusty trips, and be washed when dirty. Leather cushions should be freshened the same as the top.

The man who has cared for a fine carriage will know what to do with similar parts of the automobile; others should learn how to care for them, and understand that varnished and polished surfaces will become dulled if the car is stored in a stable, or adjacent to stable or barnyard. If a barn is converted into a garage, it should be thoroughly renovated and fitted with a cement floor sloping to the center, with a drain leading outside, so that the car may be washed there and the water run off through the drain.

In fact the owner of a car may find something to do all the time for convenience and comfort. If he arranges things conveniently he will not only save time but will be able to do better work, and will have the satisfaction of knowing that he is keeping down expense and getting the most out of his machine for the expenditure.