CHAPTER XXV

DRIVING THE CAR

It takes more than a knowledge of certain small levers and pedals and a deftness in manipulating clutch and brakes and gear shifts and steering wheel, to make an automobile driver. Because of this fact the Automobile School of the West Side Young Men’s Christian Association, in New York City, has formulated a set of instructions to its students for the road lessons, which are about the most complete, yet concise, so far published. They are copyrighted and published by permission. It may emphasize the foregoing chapter to first quote the introductory paragraph which otherwise would have been omitted.

The following applies particularly to the cars used in the school. Slight variations may be found on other machines, so it is well to get an instruction book from the manufacturers of the car you expect to operate and follow their instructions closely.

=Before Leaving the Garage=—See that there is sufficient gasoline and oil in the tanks to carry you the distance you wish to go. Examine the radiator or tank to see that it is full of water. Have sufficient air in the tires. All grease cups should be filled and turned down properly. If batteries only are used, two should be carried, and one of them fully charged. If you are carrying only one battery, be sure that it is sufficiently charged to make the desired run. Have on the car at least one extra shoe and three extra tubes, with the ordinary equipment of tire pump, jack, oil gun, tire tools, tire patches and cement, and the regular kit of other tools. A set of non-skid chains will be found very useful on wet days; in fact it is not safe to run without them on wet asphalt. They should not be used however any more than is necessary, as they wear the tires excessively. A couple of extra spark plugs should be carried to save the trouble of cleaning a short circuited one on the road.

=Starting Crank=—In a gasoline automobile, it is found that the motor must draw a supply of gas into the cylinder and compress it before this charge can be ignited to expand and give power. It is therefore necessary to have some means of turning the engine over to accomplish this. The starting crank placed usually on the front of the machine, just in front of the radiator and between the front spring horns, is for this purpose. It is operated, as a rule, with the right hand, and is rotated clockwise (the direction the hands of a clock travel). When there is a self-starter provided, the starting crank is carried in the tool box, and is used only when the starter will not operate.

=Starting Pedal=—The starting pedal or button may generally be found somewhere on the floor board. Pressing on it connects an electric motor to the crank shaft of the engine and closes a switch that allows current from the storage battery to flow to the motor and crank the engine. This takes the place of the hand-starting crank.

=Clutch Pedal=—It is quite often desirable to run the engine without moving the car, and it will also be found necessary at times to bring into mesh different gears so that more power or speed may be obtained. A clutch is, therefore, placed between the engine and the rear wheels. It is controlled by means of a pedal placed just back of the dash. The clutch is released by pressing on this pedal with the left foot, and when released the engine will continue to run, but will not deliver power to the driving wheels. When the pressure of the left foot is released from the pedal, the clutch will become engaged automatically by means of a stiff spring and the car will move forward or backward, according to which gears are in mesh. If the gears are in the neutral position, however, power will not be applied to the car when the clutch is engaged. The clutch must be released every time the gear-shifting lever is moved and whenever the brake is applied.

Remember, it is =depressing= or =pushing= this pedal that overcomes the tension of the spring and =releases= the clutch, and when no pressure is applied to the pedal, the clutch is =engaged=.

=The Running-Brake Pedal=—The running brake is used for bringing the car to a standstill. It is operated by means of a pedal placed just back of the dash and to the right of the clutch pedal. To apply the brake, first release the clutch by pushing on the clutch pedal, then push down or forward on the brake pedal with the right foot gently but firmly until the car is stopped. After removing the foot from the brake pedal the brake will be released automatically by means of a spring. Use the brake gently to save discomfort to the passengers, wear on tires and the machine in general. Do not run close to the point where the stop is to be made and then jam the brake on hard, but begin to apply it early and bring the car to a standstill gradually.

=The Emergency-Brake Lever=—The emergency brakes are used chiefly after the car has been stopped and the operator wishes to leave it. They are applied by means of a lever operated by the right hand. This lever is usually placed just forward and to the right of the driver’s seat. It is fitted with a spring latch and when applied will lock on, and so is very convenient in stopping on a hill or when the car is left standing at the curb. The brake is applied by pulling back the lever. This brake can be used alone or in connection with the running brake for quick stops when necessary, but it should not be used for ordinary stopping as it is usually not designed for such work.

=Gear-Shifting Lever=—This lever is usually placed forward and to the right of the operator’s seat, and to the left of the emergency-brake lever. It is operated with the right hand. By shifting this lever which engages different sets of gears, the machine may be made to go forward at different speeds while the engine turns at a practically uniform speed. It also controls the reverse gear. When the car is standing, the lever should be left in neutral position. When in this position, even if the clutch is engaged, the machine will not move. To start the car, release emergency brake, release the clutch with left foot, grasp the gear-shifting lever with the right hand and shift from the neutral position to the first speed notch, accelerate slightly, then allow the clutch to engage slowly and the car will start. After the car has started, release the clutch again and shift the gear lever to the second speed notch and engage the clutch quickly but gently. Repeat this operation for third and fourth speeds. =Always release clutch when shifting this lever.= Whenever the car is brought to a standstill, put the lever in the neutral position before applying emergency brake.

=Accelerator Pedal=—This pedal operates the throttle on the carburetor and regulates the amount of gas going to the engine and thus controls the power which the motor develops. It is sometimes placed between the clutch and brake pedals, but usually to the right of the brake pedal and is operated by the right foot. More gas is permitted to enter the cylinders and therefore more power is obtained by pressing on it, and when released the throttle will be returned to its minimum position by means of a spring. Push on the pedal very slowly, for a slight movement greatly increases the power developed by the motor and a too sudden application of power will strain the whole machine. It should be pushed slightly when the clutch is engaged to increase the power of the motor, and should be released when the clutch is disengaged, so that the engine will not race. =The Throttle Lever=—This lever controls the throttle on the carburetor the same as the accelerator pedal but it has a spring latch, and when it is desirable to run the machine for some distance at a nearly constant speed, this lever may be used as it will stay where placed, thus relieving the right foot which would become tired of holding the accelerator pedal in one position for a long time. It is usually placed on the steering post above the steering wheel and is operated with the right hand. =Do not advance throttle lever too quickly.=

=The Spark-Control Lever=—It takes some time after the spark occurs for the gas to get thoroughly ignited and give power. It is therefore desirable to have the spark occur earlier when the engine is running fast, so that the gas may be thoroughly ignited at the beginning and deliver power for full length of the working stroke. This means that the spark when advanced actually occurs when the piston is still traveling up on the compression stroke and so gets the gas in the cylinder at its maximum pressure when the crank passes top dead center. When the motor is cranked in starting it is turned so slowly that to avoid a kick back the spark must be retarded so that it occurs after the crank has passed top dead center. The spark-control lever is connected with the spark-timing device, and so controls the time at which the spark occurs in the cylinder. It is usually placed on the steering column above the steering wheel, and is operated with the right hand. On some cars it is moved forward and on others backward to advance the spark. When the engine is cranked in starting, the spark should be fully retarded. After the motor has started it can usually be advanced about two-thirds, but there is no set rule for this. In general, advance as the motor (not the car) gains speed and retard as it slackens speed. Keep the spark advanced as far as possible at all times but retard it if the engine labors or knocks.

=Ignition Switch=—Usually placed on the dash. It is for the purpose of closing and opening the electric circuit and thus stopping the motor or allowing it to be started. It is generally provided with a removable plug or a key so that the car may be safely left at the curb. Be sure that switch is in “Off” position when the motor is stopped.

=Steering Wheel=—The steering wheel is usually placed on the left-hand side of the car directly in front of the operator’s seat. By its means the direction of the car is controlled. When moving forward, turning the wheel counter clockwise will cause the car to go to the left and turning it clockwise will cause the car to go to the right. It should be operated with the left hand only unless steering is very hard, when both hands may be used. Grasp the wheel firmly with one or both hands but not with a strong, nervous grip, as this becomes very tiresome. If the hand is kept always in one position on the wheel when only slight turns are desired, there will be no difficulty in knowing by its position when the front wheels are pointing straight ahead. When turning corners the position of the hand on the wheel may be changed and both hands should be used. Do not attempt to turn the steering wheel when the car is not moving as this throws a very great and entirely needless strain on the whole steering mechanism.

=Priming Device or “Choke”=—When the engine is cranked in starting, it is turned so slowly that the air going in through the carburetor has not sufficient velocity to draw the required amount of gasoline from the spray nozzle. The mixture that goes into the cylinder is therefore weak and cannot be exploded easily. To enrich the mixture, a valve is placed in the carburetor air passage, to choke off the air and feed more gasoline to the motor. This valve is operated by a lever or button usually found on the dash or attached to the steering column under the steering wheel. It is often combined with a device for making the mixture richer or leaner to take care of different weather conditions. Some engines will start nearly every time without priming the carburetor; others must be primed every time the engine is started. Do not prime to excess; as soon as the engine starts, return the lever or button to the running position.

=The Gasoline Tank=—The gasoline tank carries the fuel that is to be fed to the engine. It will sometimes be found under the front seats, and may be filled by removing the cushion. In this system the gasoline flows by gravity to the carburetor and a small hole about the size of a pin will be found in the filler cap to allow the air to enter as the gasoline leaves. This hole should be kept clean, because if the air cannot enter the gasoline will stop flowing to the carburetor and the engine will stop running. Some cars carry the gasoline tank on the rear of the chassis under the body and air pressure is kept on the gasoline to force it to the carburetor. This pressure is obtained by a hand pump placed on the dash, and is kept constant automatically. This system differs from all others in that there should be no hole in the filler cap of the tank and the gasket on the cap should be kept in good condition to prevent air leakage. A gauge will be found on the dash and by this means the pressure on the tank can be determined. Other cars with the tank under the rear end of the chassis have a system of drawing the gasoline by means of a vacuum, to a small tank located by the carburetor under the hood, from which it flows into the carburetor by gravity. Still other cars have a gasoline tank in the cowl of the dash from which the gasoline flows to the carburetor by gravity.

=The Lubricator=—The lubricating system is generally built into the crank case of the engine. The oil is supplied through a pipe or other opening found on the engine and a gauge or pet cock is provided to indicate the amount of oil in the motor. The system should be kept filled with a light to medium high-grade gas-engine oil. The lubricating system usually oils all internal parts of the engine only, the transmission, steering and differential gears being lubricated by heavy oil or grease placed in their respective housings, and all other parts of the car are taken care of by oil or grease cups. Any oil put into the engine should be carefully strained to remove dirt or grit.

=The Water Tank=—The water tank or radiator is placed on the front of the car and should be kept filled with clear water. Any sediment that is allowed to enter the radiator will clog it and the engine will then overheat. During the winter it is well to fill the radiator with some anti-freezing solution. Alcohol is good for this purpose, mixed with water in the following proportions as desired.

2 pints wood alcohol to 1 gallon water freezes at 0° Fahr. 2-1/2 pints wood alcohol to 1 gallon water freezes at 10° below 3 pints wood alcohol to 1 gallon water freezes at 20° below 4 pints wood alcohol to 1 gallon water freezes at 38° below

If steam is discharged from the radiator, examine the fan directly back of it and the water pump, and see that there is no clog in the pipes leading to and from it.

=Tires=—Keep the tires free from oil and grease as they rot the rubber. Drive very carefully in wet weather because rubber cuts very easily when wet. Drive slowly around corners and start and stop without jerks; also be very careful not to rub the tires against the curb. Have all small cuts vulcanized so that moisture cannot get in and rot the fabric. Do not run on a flat tire unless it has been damaged beyond repair. Run slowly on the rim or wrap rope around it if no other tire is to be had. It is very important to keep the tires fully inflated at all times. If tires do not give satisfactory wear report it to the manufacturer at once. When the car is to be laid up for some time, place jacks under it to keep the weight off the tires.

=To Start the Motor=—Place the gear-shifting lever in the neutral position, put the emergency brake on, retard the spark fully or if well acquainted with the motor, to a point where the spark will surely occur after the crank has passed top center. Open throttle about one-third. (After getting acquainted with the machine you will find a position for the throttle where the motor starts best.)

Put the switch in “On” position. If the motor habitually starts hard, prime the carburetor with choking or enriching lever. If car is equipped with electric self-starter, press hard on starting button or pedal. When the engine starts, remove foot from pedal immediately, then close throttle and advance spark lever two-thirds. In cranking the motor by hand, grasp some part of the car with the left hand to steady yourself, place the feet wide apart, and stand close to the front of the machine. Grasp the starting crank with the right hand having it at its lowest position, or a little to the right of this point. Push the crank in as far as it will go and turn slowly clockwise until it engages the crank shaft. It will usually catch when about at its lowest position. When engaged, brace yourself firmly and pull up quickly on crank, turning it about one-half revolution. If after repeating this operation several times the engine does not start, it may be found necessary to spin the motor. This means cranking for a full revolution or more. In spinning the motor, care should be taken to always start with an up pull so as to gain momentum for the down thrust and so reduce the danger of a kick back to a minimum. After the engine starts, advance the spark about two-thirds and close the throttle. If the engine has been started on the battery and a magneto is used, switch immediately from the battery to magneto. Do not allow the motor to race. When running idle, it should turn over at its slowest speed.

=To Start the Car=—Take your place in the driver’s seat, place left foot on clutch pedal, and press hard to release the clutch. Keep it disengaged while with the right hand the emergency brake is released and gear lever is shifted from neutral to the first speed notch. Then with the right foot press the accelerator pedal gently until the motor speed is increased a little and at the same time with the left foot allow the clutch pedal to come back, until the clutch starts to engage and the car begins to move. From this point decrease the pressure on the clutch pedal very gradually until the clutch is fully engaged, at the same time listening to the engine to see that it doesn’t slow down sufficiently to stall. If it shows signs of stalling, press accelerator pedal a little more to increase its speed, at the same time keeping a slightly greater pressure on the clutch pedal. Stalling the motor is the result of feeding too little gas with the accelerator, or of not keeping pressure on the clutch pedal during the time the clutch is engaging. The jerking of the car comes from feeding too much gas and engaging the clutch too suddenly. Both of these faults may be overcome by listening to the speed of the engine and keeping it right through the proper use of the accelerator pedal, and by releasing the pressure of the foot from the clutch pedal very gradually from the time it starts to engage until it is fully engaged. It is impossible to become a good driver until the ear learns to judge the speed of the motor by its sound and the left foot learns to engage the clutch gradually. When the clutch has become fully engaged, press accelerator pedal slightly to speed up the machine. As soon as it has attained fair momentum, release the clutch and at the same time let up on the accelerator pedal. Change gear lever immediately from first speed notch to second speed notch and let in the clutch quickly until you feel it take hold and then gradually, at the same time pressing slightly on the accelerator pedal. _When the clutch pedal is pushed out, the accelerator pedal should be released; when the clutch is let in, the accelerator pedal should be pressed slightly._ Change from second to third and from third to fourth if four speeds are employed, always releasing clutch when gear is shifted, and always accelerating slightly while the clutch is being engaged.

Do not forget that the clutch is released when the clutch pedal is pushed out, and that it is engaged when the pedal is allowed to come back. Run on the high-speed gear as much as possible, and when it is necessary to drive more slowly release the clutch and apply the brake gently until the car is brought to the desired speed. Then if the speed of the machine is low enough to warrant it, release the brake and, with the clutch still disengaged, change from the high to the next lower speed notch and let in the clutch. If the car has lost much momentum it may be necessary to change to the lowest gear before letting in the clutch, otherwise the engine may be stalled. Do not drive too close to other vehicles or objects before releasing the clutch and applying the brakes as the brakes may not hold as well as you think and you may not be able to operate them correctly when in close quarters. If while the machine is standing it is found impossible to move the gear lever from neutral to first or reverse, leave the lever in neutral, allow the clutch to engage slightly, then release it quickly and shift lever to desired notch.

=To Stop the Car=—Select a lamp-post, tree, or other object along the curb, and when still some distance from it, disengage the clutch and apply the brake gently and get the car under control so that you can, if you wish, stop ten feet before the object is reached. Then, releasing the brake pressure slightly, allow the car to drift to the object, stopping with the rear door directly opposite the object and the car close enough to the curb to allow passengers to alight on the sidewalk. Shift gears to neutral, apply emergency brake, and allow clutch to engage. Be careful that the tires do not scrape along the curb as this is very damaging. The brake should be applied so that the car is not brought up with a jerk. This can be accomplished easily with a little practice, as can also starting of the car. Remember that you are driving for the comfort of the passengers, and they can feel the jerks and jar much more than you.

=To Reverse the Car=—Bring it to a standstill first, then with the clutch released place the gear lever in the reverse notch. Allow the clutch to engage gently with the left hand only on the steering wheel, look backward and gauge the direction by the rear end of the car. Do not attempt to steer by watching the front wheels; always look to the rear when going backward, to make sure the way is clear.

=Turning in Narrow Streets=—With the car moving slowly, first look back to see that there is no other vehicle coming and then turn the wheels sharply to the left as far as possible. When within five feet more or less, depending upon the speed of the car, of the left-hand curb, release the clutch and apply the brake gently, at the same time turning the steering wheel quickly to the right. Stop turning the wheel when the car is brought to a standstill. With the clutch still released and the brake on, shift to the reverse gear. Then release the brake; accelerate slightly, let the clutch in carefully, and when the car starts to move continue turning the wheel to the right or clockwise. This will point the car in the opposite direction. When going backward look toward the back of the car and also up and down the street to see that no other vehicle is approaching. After the car has traveled back a sufficient distance, release the clutch, take foot off of accelerator pedal and apply brake, at the same time turning steering wheel to the left until the car stops. Then with the clutch still released and the brake still on, shift from reverse gear to first speed gear. Take right foot from brake pedal and accelerate slightly, allowing clutch to engage gradually, and as soon as the car starts to move, continue turning steering wheel to the left until the car goes straight ahead. Do not turn the steering wheel while the car is standing. Start to turn when the car begins to move. Do not allow tires to strike curb.

=Turning Corners=—Before turning a corner hold out the hand so that any driver behind you may see it, and also look back to make sure that he does see it. If another vehicle is close behind you or if there is one in front coming toward you, slow up your car and wait until it has passed before turning. When turning a corner to the right keep as close to the curb as possible so that the car will be on the right-hand side when you get into the side street. When turning to the left go past the center of the street into which you are traveling and then turn sharply, so that you will be on the right-hand side of the road. Do not cut close to the left curb. Always go around a corner at a low enough speed to make the use of the second speed gear necessary, and reduce speed so that the gear shifting must be done before starting to turn, not after, as this gives better control of the car. Turning corners at a high rate of speed puts a great strain on the tires and causes them to wear excessively. It is also uncomfortable for the passengers. Use both hands on the steering wheel, and if the car is found to be going too fast check it by releasing the clutch and applying the brake slightly. Do not shift gears before slowing the car. The idea is to slow the car sufficiently to make shifting to a lower gear necessary.

=Climbing Hills=—When approaching a hill accelerate and advance the spark, as speeding up the motor makes it more powerful and adding momentum to the car will often carry it over hills that would need an intermediate speed gear if an attempt is made to climb them slowly. As the hill is reached, open the throttle fully. If the engine begins to feel the grade and labors or knocks, retard the spark until the knocking or laboring ceases. If the hill is a very steep one, as soon as the engine begins to lose speed, release the clutch, remove pressure from accelerator and, without applying the brake, shift to a lower speed gear. Let clutch in quickly and at the same time open accelerator wide. It will then probably be found that the spark can be advanced without causing the engine to knock. On some hills it may be found necessary to shift to the first speed gear, but this should not be done unless the engine will not pull the car on a higher gear. When gears are shifted on a hill the change must be made quickly and the clutch let in immediately, as slow work will allow the car to lose momentum, and then when the clutch is engaged the engine will stall. If the engine stalls, put on the emergency brake and put gear lever in neutral notch. It will be well to place a stone or block back of the rear wheels before cranking the motor as the vibration of the engine may jar the emergency lever loose. In starting again, release the clutch, put lever in first speed gear, accelerate strongly, release the emergency brake and at the same time let the clutch engage. This must be done quickly, otherwise the car will start to back down the hill. With some cars it may be found easier when starting from a standstill on a steep hill, to apply the foot brake, release the emergency brake, engage the clutch while the foot brake is released gradually, at the same time feeding gas to the engine with the hand throttle. Do not attempt to climb steep hills until you have thoroughly mastered shifting gears on the level.

=Descending Hills=—When descending slight grades throw off the ignition switch and leave the gear lever in high speed with the clutch engaged. This will cause the engine to act as a slight brake and if necessary the running brake may be operated in connection with it. There is no harm in applying the brake under these conditions with the clutch engaged, because switching off the ignition causes the engine to stop giving power. When a very steep grade is encountered, before attempting to descend it, stop the car and shift to second or first speed gear. The lower the gear used the greater will be the braking power, and when first speed is used it is almost impossible for the car to get beyond control. The ignition may be switched off or on as the occasion requires. Switching it off gives greater braking power. The clutch must be left engaged, and the brakes may be used to help. It is well to use first one brake and then the other in descending long grades, as too long an application of one will cause it to heat and burn the friction material. Do not wait until you are half way down the hill before finding out that it is too steep for the brakes to hold the car. Make up your mind before starting to descend and shift to first gear if necessary. Do not allow the brakes to get in such condition that they will not hold to the best of their ability. Never descend the hill at a high rate of speed no matter how safe it looks. Brakes do not hold as well when the car is going fast as they do when it is moving slowly, nor will they stop a car as quickly going down a grade as they will going up.

=Driving in Congested Streets=—Procure a copy of the rules of the road of the city in which you are driving and obey them. Keep to the right-hand curb unless it is lined with standing vehicles, in which case keep close to them. In overtaking another vehicle, pass it on its left. In passing a vehicle coming in the opposite direction go to the right of it. When stopping, the wheels must be within six inches of the curb. Before stopping, hold your hand out at the side of the car to warn the man who may be behind you. Do not at any time slow down or stop without holding out your hand and looking back to make sure that it is seen. Pedestrians have the right of way at crossings, but you may warn them of your approach by blowing the horn. However, do not make a nuisance of yourself by using it more than necessary. When traveling in a side street, upon coming to a main thoroughfare slow up so that you can stop quickly, as vehicles on these streets have the right of way. When on a main thoroughfare it is not necessary to slow up at every cross street. Watch the traffic policeman, and when one holds up his hand, stop; first holding out your hand to warn anyone behind you. Remain standing until the policeman motions you to proceed. In some places the policemen use whistles instead of motions, and the signals used by them should be learned. Whenever it is necessary to reduce the speed of the car considerably, release the clutch and apply the brake. When the car is going slow enough, shift to a lower speed gear to prevent stalling the motor when the clutch is let in. When it is found necessary to keep behind a slow moving vehicle, shift to a speed so low that it will not be necessary to slip the clutch. If it is desirable to go slower than first speed gear, however, the clutch may be slipped by keeping a slight pressure on that clutch pedal. A great variation in speed may be obtained when in any gear by the proper manipulation of the spark and throttle levers.

Do not attempt to keep pace with other vehicles until you are an experienced driver. When in close quarters, perform every operation slowly as a move made slowly but surely will probably take less time than a move made incorrectly. There is no occasion for getting excited, as it is safe to assume that every other vehicle is under perfect control. _Learn to shift gears without looking at the lever, because you will need your eyes to watch the road._ Sit straight in the seat: do not get hunched over the steering wheel as this indicates a novice. Always drive into the garage on the first speed gear.

=Washing the Car=—The car should be washed immediately upon coming into the garage, before the mud has had time to dry. Do not scour off the mud as this scratches the varnish. Use the hose with a slow stream until the mud is well loosened, and then finish by soaking (not rubbing) off with a sponge well wet with water. Where a hose is not procurable the mud may be loosened with a wet sponge and then washed off entirely by throwing pails of water on it. Be careful that water does not go through the radiator or any other opening and get on the engine, as this is likely to short circuit the magneto or spark plugs and prevent the motor from running. If there is grease on the car, soap must be used to remove it. Castile soap is the best for this purpose. However, do not apply the soap itself to the car, but make suds in lukewarm water. After all mud and grease has been removed, wipe dry with a chamois skin. Wash and dry the body before the running gear, and be careful that no grease is collected on chamois from wheel bearings and steering-arm joints.

=Cautions=—Don’t twist the steering wheel when the car is standing. Corners should be turned at slow speed to save wear on tires. The brakes should not be applied with too much force except in an emergency, as it is hard on tires and the machine in general. Don’t let the motor labor or knock when ascending hills. When going down long hills use one set of brakes and then the other. Shift to first speed gear before descending steep hills. Change from first speed to reverse and from reverse to first only when the car is standing. Be very careful of skidding on wet pavements. Put non-skid chains on for wet or icy roads. Always start and stop the car without a jerk. This constitutes good driving. Don’t forget to see that the license pad is attached before leaving the garage. Inspect oil, gasoline, and water tanks before making a trip and see that the necessary tools and extra tires are in the car. Don’t let the car stand with the motor stopped in the winter time, unless the radiator is filled with anti-freezing solution. Look the car over thoroughly after each run.

The records of the examinations held at the school show that there are a few points of driving which a large majority of the students do not entirely master. This is not due to lack of instruction in the subjects, but is rather the result of poor memory or insufficient practice. Failure to perform these operations perfectly does not necessarily mean that the student is not a safe driver, but it does show that he needs more practice before being rated as an expert. If you want to be a little better than the average driver, keep in mind the following points, go back and read them over again in this booklet, think about them when driving the car and try your best to master them.

When about to turn a corner, or turn in a street, or in fact whenever swerving from a straight line, look back to see if it is safe to make the turn, and hold out your hand to signal what you intend to do.

Make sure that the spark is retarded, the gear lever is in neutral, switch on, and other levers in their proper positions before cranking the engine.

When the car has been slowed down to a very low speed for any reason, shift to a lower gear; don’t try to pick up speed on high gear. Don’t shift to a lower gear until the car speed has been reduced sufficiently.

In New York City, traffic traveling north and south has the right of way, therefore when crossing an avenue go slowly and make sure you will not cut off vehicles on the avenue.

When starting the car, allow the clutch pedal to come back until the clutch begins to engage, then keep enough pressure on the pedal to allow it to become fully engaged very gradually. Letting the clutch engage all at once makes the car jump or the engine stall, and observers smile knowingly. In this connection you should listen to the engine and operate the clutch and accelerator so that the engine is not raced or stalled.