Part 3

Bordering the Arkansas River valley on the west, the Sawatch Range includes Colorado’s highest mountain, Mt. Elbert (14,417 feet). With several other 14,000-foot summits, this range is the highest in the state. One group of peaks, known as the Collegiate Range (Mts. Harvard, Yale, Columbia, and Princeton) forms a particularly imposing vista from U. S. highway 24 between Trout Creek Pass and Buena Vista. The Independence Pass highway (Colorado 82) between Leadville and Aspen penetrates the heart of the Sawatch high country.

The Sawatch Range as a whole is about 100 miles long (north to south) and 40 miles wide. It is a great faulted anticline intruded by igneous rocks. The high area north of Leadville shows that the Sawatch and Mosquito Ranges are in reality one huge dome with a slight sag in the middle. The ranges, though, are sharply separated topographically by the deep valley of the Arkansas River. Precambrian rocks are near the surface between the ranges, hidden only by a thin cover of stream gravels. Near Leadville, some complexly faulted Paleozoic limestones lie in the sag between the ranges.

At Mt. Princeton Hot Springs there is evidence of repeated faulting and igneous activity. The rocks are strongly altered by hot water coming to the surface through fissures and cracks.

On the west side of the Sawatch range, the old mining towns of Tincup and Aspen grew up where limestone and sandstone layers, broken and crumpled as the Sawatch Range rose, were mineralized by solutions rich in gold and silver. The Aspen Mining District was studied extensively by geologists of the U.S. Geological Survey, and their maps show almost unbelievable complexity in the faulting of the rock layers which exist there.

The north end of the Sawatch Range plunges under shales and sandstones along the Eagle River east of Wolcott. Gypsum in the sediments here has acted like putty: the layers of rock in which it was deposited have become peculiarly crumpled, making the area along the Eagle River (visible from U. S. Interstate 70) between Avon and Edwards hummocky and irregular. Vegetation is unusually sparse here because of gypsum in the soil.

About midway between Edwards and Wolcott, the Eagle River suddenly changes direction and flows northward for about a mile before resuming its former westward course. This sudden change is caused by a sharp north-south fold in the sedimentary rocks on the northwestern flank of the Sawatch Range. A magnificent series of roadcut and hillside exposures along the highway here illustrates the close relation between rock layers and river course. Within about a mile, the highway cuts through rocks of Pennsylanian, Permian, Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretaceous age, spanning a geologic time interval of more than 200 million years.

The south end of the Sawatch Range, at Monarch Pass, contains steeply dipping Late Paleozoic limestones and coal beds. The coal has been mined on a small scale; the limestone is now quarried for use as a flux in iron smelters at Pueblo.

Elk Mountains and West Elk Mountains

The Elk Mountains and West Elk Mountains appear to be westward continuations of the Sawatch Range. Structurally, however, they are not faulted anticlines like most of the other ranges in Colorado, but are composed of a series of layers of Paleozoic sediments thrust westward over one another. These rocks, often crumpled and highly metamorphosed, are cut by numerous sills, dikes, and other intrusions, many of which have caused mineral enrichment locally.

At Maroon Bells, in the canyon of Maroon Creek, and at Redstone on the Crystal River, these metamorphosed sediments are well exposed. Here, red sandstones and shales have been altered to quartzites and slate. At Marble, metamorphism of a thick limestone bed has produced white marble of great beauty, known as Yule Marble. This decorative stone was quarried extensively until about 1940. It was used in the Lincoln Memorial and several other monumental structures; in the town of Marble it has been used for the doorsteps of log cabins! The largest block quarried, for the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Arlington National Cemetery, measured 14 by 7.4 by 6 feet in the rough, and weighed 56 tons.

Crested Butte, at the south end of the Elk Mountains, is a small intrusive igneous mass called a _laccolith_. Hard and resistant to erosion, it stands over 2,000 feet above the adjacent valley floor.

San Juan Mountains

The San Juan Mountains are the most extensive range in Colorado, and also the most heterogeneous. Covering more than 10,000 square miles of the southwestern part of the state, these mountains are formed mostly of Tertiary volcanic rocks, the result of repeated outpourings of lava and ash from a cluster of volcanoes. Water-laid gravels composed of volcanic sand and pebbles are interlayered with basalts and ash beds; the total thickness of these beds reaches many thousands of feet.

The widespread volcanic activity which formed most of the range began in mid-Tertiary time and continued for several million years. A few Quaternary volcanic flows are known in the region, but there is no active volcanism there at present.

The western side of the main range, including some of the highest peaks, consists primarily of uplifted and faulted Paleozoic sedimentary layers. These layers, highly dissected by erosion, can be seen near Ouray, at Molas Lake, and at Durango. Large patches of Precambrian granite and metamorphic rocks protrude through the sediments, as in the Needle Mountains; they indicate that this part of the range is a faulted anticline like many other Colorado ranges.

Early Cenozoic glacial deposits occur in some parts of the San Juans. These are unusual features, as glaciation of this age is unknown elsewhere in Colorado.

Three small ranges rise just west of the San Juans: the San Miguel, Rico, and La Plata Mountains. Each consists of several small masses of Tertiary igneous rock intruded into Paleozoic conglomerates, shales, and limestones.

Mineralization has been intense in the San Juans; most of it took place during the Late Tertiary volcanic period. Rich veins penetrate Precambrian gneiss and granite, and Paleozoic limestones are often enriched also. Several mines are still active near Ouray, Silverton, Telluride, and Rico.

Uinta Mountains

The eastern end of Utah’s Uinta Mountains extends into Colorado. Unlike other ranges in Colorado, these mountains trend east-west. Structurally, the range is a faulted anticline. It is quite asymmetrical, however, and is tilted and folded upward on the south, and overturned or thrust-faulted on the north. Steeply dipping Mesozoic and Paleozoic sediments on the south side of the range, sparsely vegetated and often thrown into spectacular folds, are a prominent feature of northwest Colorado scenery.

In Colorado the crest of the Uintas reaches an elevation of about 8,500 feet. It consists of Precambrian rocks, but these are not the igneous and metamorphic rocks that characterize the Precambrian core of other Colorado mountains. They are easily recognized as sediments—dark red conglomerates, sandstones, and mudstones—virtually unmetamorphosed though they were deposited nearly a billion years ago. Called the Uinta Mountain Formation, these rocks are found only in this part of Colorado and adjacent areas of Utah. They are probably related to similar Precambrian rocks found in Montana and Canada.

At the east end of the Uintas two isolated uplifts, Cross Mountain and Juniper Mountain, are faulted blocks of Paleozoic rocks standing like islands in a sea of Cenozoic valley fill. They are the last outposts of the Uinta anticlinal pattern as it wanes toward the southeast.

Dinosaur National Monument, a Uinta Mountain tourist attraction, encompasses a vast area of wilderness on both sides of the Yampa River in Colorado. Here many of the features of the east end of the Uinta Mountain structure can be seen. A unique display of the world’s largest fossils can be visited in the Utah portion of the Monument.

THE PLATEAUS

The western quarter of Colorado is a region of flat-lying Paleozoic, Mesozoic, and Cenozoic sedimentary rocks which have not been bent up into mountains except in a few isolated instances. This area lies more than a mile above sea level, however, and because of the gradient such an elevation affords, it is deeply sculptured. The Colorado River and its tributaries have sliced into the plateau surface, separating it into many isolated tablelands or mesas. Some are capped with sedimentary rock, others with Tertiary basalt.

Simple folds and faults have given the mesas different elevations. Thus the average elevation of the White River Plateau is 11,000 feet, that of the Roan Plateau 9,500 feet, and that of Mesa Verde only 7,000 feet. West of Durango the plateaus dip gently southward, as can be seen at Mesa Verde. Igneous intrusions and extrusions have altered plateau topography in some areas. West of Mesa Verde, for instance, an intrusive stock forms a prominent dome in the Southern Ute Indian Reservation.

West of the northern Colorado mountains, and north and west of the White River Plateau, a rolling upland extends from Colorado into Utah and Wyoming. It is interrupted by the Uinta Mountains and a number of smaller related uplifts such as Juniper Mountain and Cross Mountain. South of the Uinta axis the area is known as the Uinta Basin.

The northern part of this area is structurally the south edge of the Green River or Washakie Basin in Wyoming. The Rangely anticline, in the northeastern corner of the Uinta Basin, is one of Colorado’s richest oil fields; it is discussed in Chapter III.

Although surfaced with much younger sediments than the rest of the Plateau Province, this area is structurally similar. On the whole, sedimentary layers are relatively flat-lying, and where they are uplifted they are deeply sculptured by streams and rivers. The sedimentary rocks in this region contain uranium and placer gold in addition to great oil and gas deposits. The southeastern part of the Uinta Basin, usually called the Piceance Basin, is the site of a great deposit of oil shale (see Chapter III). The term “basin” may here seem unusual to the casual observer, for the oil shales occur on the Roan Plateau at places well over 10,000 feet in elevation. However, the entire region was basin-like—lower than the surrounding ranges—for many millions of years, and during Tertiary time thousands of feet of valley and lake deposits were laid down in it.

The White River Plateau, north of Glenwood Springs, is composed of almost horizontal Paleozoic sedimentary rocks that fold downward sharply along its south and west edges. The fold is 135 miles long and is clearly marked by the Grand Hogback, the eroded edge of hard Cretaceous and early Cenozoic rock layers. Shale and coaly layers involved in the same fold have eroded more readily, leaving the resistant sandstone as a prominent ridge.

The Uncompahgre Plateau, southwest of Grand Junction, is structurally very like the White River Plateau. Its features can be well observed in Colorado National Monument. It has been elevated several thousand feet more than the Book Cliffs and Grand Valley areas to the north. Sharp folding and faulting near the Colorado River at the north boundary of the National Monument show that differential movement between the two regions was sharp and localized.

A series of northwest-trending anticlines along the Utah border in southwestern Colorado are of special geologic interest. They represent peculiar structures in which salt and gypsum have played a major part. These minerals were deposited in thick layers late in Paleozoic time; subsequently they were covered by thousands of feet of sand, shale, and limestone. Because of their low density and high plasticity they have since crept upward along weak spots in the overlying sediments, often contorting these rocks as they moved. Breaking through to the surface, the salt and some of the gypsum washed away more rapidly than the surrounding rock, leaving long faulted troughs such as Gypsum Valley and Paradox Valley. In most of these structures the gypsum can still be seen, although the more soluble salt has eroded away. Oil wells in this part of Colorado and in adjacent parts of southeast Utah have penetrated thousands of feet of evaporites, including pure salt, gypsum, and potassium salts.

The peculiar weathering characteristics of flat-lying sedimentary rocks in an arid climate are well demonstrated in Colorado National Monument, Mesa Verde National Park, and elsewhere in the Plateau Province. Those fortunate enough to make a river trip through the Yampa or Green River Canyons in northwestern Colorado or on the rivers of eastern Utah and northern Arizona will have an unusually fine opportunity to observe close at hand the weathering and erosion in this area. Resistant sandstone and limestone layers break into sheer cliffs, often many hundreds of feet high, while the softer layers of mudstone and shale form gentle slopes and terraces. Vast arching caves often develop where resistant layers are undermined—caves sometimes containing ancient Indian dwellings.

II Geologic History of Colorado

Astronomical and geologic evidence indicates that the earth was probably formed as an immense blob of molten rock, held together and shaped into spherical form by its own gravity. It may even have been gaseous at first, cooling gradually to a molten state. After hundreds of millions of years it became cool enough to begin to harden.

As the surface cooled, a crust formed, and lay like a blanket over the liquid mass beneath. Convection currents—large-scale boiling movements—stirred the molten interior, thrust portions of the crust upward, and sucked other portions downward to be remelted. Some of the lighter components, such as compounds of silicon and oxygen and hydrogen, accumulated on the surface like froth on a kettle: the continents were born. With further cooling the atmosphere and oceans came into being.

Something can be told of the age of the continents. Measurements of radioactivity in the most ancient rocks exposed at the surface today indicate that the oldest known continental rock is between three and four billion years old. Since the continents were formed, they have been bent and shifted and broken by the pressures exerted against them by convection in the interior. Parts of the continents at times have been submerged below the level of the sea, even as they are today. Other portions, lifted above sea level, were immediately attacked by the wearing-down processes of erosion. The battle between mountain-building forces and erosion has been a continuous one ever since the crust was formed. Even now earthquakes give testimony to continued crustal movement, storms still sweep across the continents and wash mud and frost-loosened rocks into churning torrents, rivers still deposit great floodplains and deltas, sediments accumulate slowly but persistently upon the bottoms of the seas.

PRECAMBRIAN ERA

Only part of the earth’s very early history is represented in Colorado, where the oldest known rocks are the gneisses and schists of the Idaho Springs Formation, at least 1,800,000,000 years old. These rocks appear to be the remains of ancient sediments, folded and metamorphosed into vast mountain areas long before recognizable life inhabited the earth.

Precambrian rocks in Colorado are on the whole very poorly known. They have, however, been studied in detail in the Front Range west of Denver and Boulder, where they have been intensively explored for valuable minerals. The lack of fossils in the oldest rocks makes their close correlation difficult, but from studies of radioactive minerals contained in these rocks, and of the relationships of the rock units themselves, we can list them in order of their relative ages.

Note that the rock sequence given below reads chronologically from bottom to top—a logical pattern in geology since younger rocks, especially those of sedimentary origin, normally lie above older ones. Recent studies indicate that the sequence may be much more complex than shown here.

(youngest) Silver Plume Granite: light pinkish gray, fine-grained granite. Pikes Peak Granite: pink, coarse-grained granite. Boulder Creek Granite: dark gray, faintly banded granodiorite. Coal Creek Quartzite: light gray quartzite with grains ranging in size from fine sand to boulders, with some interbedded schist. Swandyke Hornblende Gneiss: dark gray to black, strongly banded gneiss. (oldest) Idaho Springs Formation: gray to black schist and gneiss.

From a sequence such as this, it is possible to reconstruct some features of Colorado’s early history. The first chapter of which we have a record is the deposition of the Idaho Springs Formation, probably as an accumulation of mud, sand, and limy mud in an ancient sea. Swandyke deposition followed—the sediments were iron-rich, perhaps derived from ancient volcanic materials. The original Coal Creek sediments were sands and gravels, some of them quite coarse and therefore indicative of near-shore deposition. The schist layers suggest that muds must have been deposited also.

Together these three formations represent some 40,000 feet of sedimentary layers. Deposition of such a great thickness of mud, sand, and lime must have taken a very long period of time. Details of the geography of the continent during that period have of course been obscured by later events, when these rocks were subjected to repeated uplift, crumpling, folding, various degrees of remelting and recrystallization, and erosion. But the ancient sediments must have been derived from even more ancient highlands, either folded and faulted mountains or volcanoes, and probably were deposited under water in broad expanses of sea that covered portions of the continent.

PRECAMBRIAN PALEOZOIC MESOZOIC CENOZOIC SEDIMENTS CENOZOIC VOLCANICS Yampa River White River Fort Collins South Platte River Glenwood Springs Denver Colorado River Grand Junction Aspen Gunnison River Colorado Springs Gunnison Salida Dolores River Rio Grande Arkansas River La Junta Walsenburg Alamosa Durango

The Boulder Creek, Pikes Peak, and Silver Plume Granites cut through the metamorphic rocks, and are therefore younger. They represent pulses of molten rock forced upward from deep within the crust, probably during three separate episodes of mountain building. As each set of mountains was formed, it was worn down, perhaps to low rolling hills, perhaps to flat plains almost at sea level, and partially or entirely covered with thick layers of sediment. Each time, another mountain building episode followed, with new intrusions of granite and new metamorphism of the pre-existing rocks.

Each succeeding period of metamorphism and mountain building further changed the nature of the rocks involved, complicating the patterns of folding and faulting, adding recrystallization to recrystallization, until the oldest of the rocks bore little trace of their original sedimentary nature. In general, the rocks that are oldest were most altered by the repeated metamorphism, while the younger rocks were less altered.

The Precambrian Era ended with a long period of erosion, a period known to geologists as the Lipalian Interval. During this time, over almost the entire world there was no mountain building. The land lay sleeping, subject only to the forces of erosion. The last mountains were flattened nearly to sea level. Slow, sluggish streams and rivers carried sand and mud toward the oceans—oceans in which perhaps primitive, soft-bodied organisms, with no hard parts to be preserved as fossils, were beginning to evolve.

On the continents, the time of intense metamorphism was over; most rocks of later eras are preserved today in pretty much their original state. The boundary between the Precambrian and later rocks is normally well defined. It is visible at many places in Colorado: in Williams Canyon near Colorado Springs, in Glenwood Canyon, near Red Rocks west of Denver, just west of La Veta Pass, at the top of Royal Gorge and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. At most of these localities it is a smoothly beveled surface, with highly contorted Precambrian rocks below it and flat-lying Paleozoic sediments above it. Near Red Rocks and La Veta Pass, the same relationship prevails, but the entire contact, and the rocks above and below it, have been steeply tilted by the uplift of the present mountains.

In portions of western North America, deposition late in Precambrian time has left a series of flat-lying rocks between the contorted Precambrian and later Paleozoic sediments. These rocks can be seen in northwestern Colorado, where they form the dark red sedimentary core of the Uinta Mountains.

PALEOZOIC ERA

Geologists have divided the second great era of geologic time into units called Periods. The rocks deposited during a Period are called Systems, but more often than not it is convenient to discuss them in terms of easily recognized units of rock, called Formations. Formations are named after areas in which they are well exposed.

The stratigraphic column given in Chapter I shows the Periods and Systems in their correct order, and gives the age in years for each, as determined by radioactivity methods. As you read, refer as often as necessary to this column.