Part 2

Fig. 6 shows the plan of newel, and Fig. 8 the elevation of a part of it. Repeat the process described at Figs. 5 and 7.

PLATE VII.

HALF-SPACE LANDING, WITH A STRAIGHT FLIGHT ABOVE AND BELOW, AND A CONTINUED RAIL, STARTING WITH A SIDE WREATH FROM A NEWEL.

Fig. 1 shows the plan, and Fig. 2 the sectional elevation. The previous plates have shown stairs with close strings--that is, the outside strings are housed out for the treads and risers, in the same way as the wall string, and the top of the string is kept above the nosings, and a capping is fixed on the top of it, and the balusters are cut on, or let into this capping, according to the class of work. But in this case is shown a cut or open string. The treads and risers are housed into the wall string as before, but the outside strings are cut so as to allow the treads and risers to pass right through, and the balusters are dovetailed into the ends of treads, details of which are shown on Plate VIII. The carriages and the landing joist are shown by dotted lines on plan. The carriages fit close up under the bottom edge of treads, and rough brackets are nailed to the side of them, and fit close up to the under side of treads, and glued and blocked. In this description of stairs it is usual to have four iron balusters, placed as follows, one each on steps 7, 13, 18 and 24. There should be a joist, or good solid block let into them, immediately under the newel, so that a bolt can be let up into the centre of newel, and through this block, or joist, and screwed tight from the bottom. The wall string should be well plugged and nailed to the wall. If there is no spandril under the bottom flight, the carriages should be stiffened by cutting pieces of the same stuff in between each carriage and let into the wall. Get a long bolt made to go through all the carriages, and the pieces between them and into the wall, with a screw on the outside end to screw them all up tight together. To bore them for the bolts: After the carriages have been fitted in their place, before they are fixed, lay them together and bore them; then bore the short pieces before putting them into their place.

Fig. 3 shows the width rod. Care should always be taken to try this rod at the landing, where the two flights are connected, and allow for the stairs to fit in between the walls, just slack enough to go in their place without any trouble. They want, in fact, to drop into their place. Mark on each end of the rod the face of the skirting on the landings, and let this be the face of the wall string. Mark the centre, and set off on each side the centre line of rail, also the string and brackets. The face brackets will be the outside face of balusters.

Fig. 4 is the going rod. Of course, the going must be regulated by circumstances, but this rod must have the face of all the risers marked on it, also each springing, as shown by S S S, and the landings, doorways, &c.

Fig. 5 is the height rod, which must have landings, &c., marked on it as shown. These rods should be used to put in the landing by. The pitch board will be taken off the rods, as was before explained. Remember, a little care in setting out and working to these rods is true economy.

Fig. 6 shows how the carriages may be fastened to the floor. Let A be a fillet nailed well through the floor into the joist.

Fig. 7 shows the top and bottom carriages bolted to the trimmers at the landing. The short trimmer is sufficiently long to take the top carriages. The dotted lines show how the bottom end of the top carriages is let into the short trimmer, and bolted through. The bottom carriages cut against the long trimmer, and bolted through, as shown. It sometimes happens the short trimmer has to be blocked out from the long one, so as to receive the top carriages. In that case it is packed out sufficiently and bolted together.

Fig. 8 shows the carriages bolted to the trimmer on the top landing.

PLATE VIII.

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION.

Fig. 1 shows the plan, and Fig. 2 the elevation of a part of an open or cut string. It will be seen the risers are cut like a bare face tenon 5/16 inch thick, the same thickness as the ornamental brackets, and shouldered to fit against the inside of the string. These brackets are glued and bradded to the outside face of the string, and mitred to the ends of the risers. That part of the string where the shoulder of the risers fits against, should be gauged to an exact thickness. The brackets fit close up under the ends of the treads, which project the thickness of the brackets past the strings, and mitred on the front edge to receive the return nosing and scotia, which is mitred and returned into the string, as shown at E, Fig. 1. The best method to adopt is as follows:--Get the risers shouldered and mitred, then plough the treads for the scotia; now cut off the ends of the treads as far as the mitre, which mark and cut in a little way, finishing the cut after the nosing has been worked and the stairs are together. Cut in the dovetails for the balusters, but not chop them out before the stairs are fixed. Now glue in the scotia, and, when dry, put the steps together, the same as was explained in Plate III. Then get the length of steps from the width rod, and cut them off. Gauge the risers to a width with a gauge as seen at Fig. 4. Fit the steps in the wall string, and cut out for nosing and scotia. To put them together, lay the wall string on the floor, having it straight and solid; put the steps into it, and lay the outer string on, and, with struts from the ceiling or any convenient place, force the cut string on to the shoulders of the risers, and the steps into the housing of the wall string. See that the stairs are square before doing all necessary wedging, blocking, screwing, &c. Then remove the struts and put on the brackets and return nosing, glueing and bradding the former, while the latter should only have two brads into the steps, so that they can be easily removed to fix the balusters when the handrail is fixed, after which they can be permanently nailed. The iron balusters are screwed to a block fixed for the purpose. This block is marked A, Figs. 1 and 3. The riser is reduced to allow the block to come forward, so as to get the screws well into it; it is stub-tenoned into the under side of the tread, as shown by the dotted lines, Fig. 3; it is also screwed into the back of the next tread below, and well glued and blocked. There will have to be a special baluster turned, out of pine, for a pattern, and turned a little longer to allow for shrinkage in the casting, which is about ⅛ inch to each foot. The square parts must be made to draw out of the sand when cast--that is, they must be a trifle thicker in the middle on the sides shown at Fig. 3 than they are at the edges, as they are cast in two halves. They will be drilled and countersunk for the screws after they are cast.

Fig. 5 shows the side and Fig. 6 the front elevation of a mitre shoot for shooting the mitres of the ends of risers. The sides are two 9-inch boards, set up at 45°, and screwed to the bottom, marked D, and to the back, marked H. Two ledges are screwed on the bottom, marked N. Also a longer piece on the top, in front, marked C, for the trying plane to slide on when shooting the mitres. A false bottom is put in, and set up at 45°, marked B, this is screwed or nailed through the sides, and kept ½ inch above C, as shown. The triangular piece is put in, and the bottom side S P is kept the thickness of a bracket above B, and S P must be the exact size of the thickness of the string where the risers fit against it. The risers are put in with the shoulders against S R and shot off. The brackets can be mitred in the same way. This box will do for any job by having different triangular pieces.

Fig. 7 shows how to get out the continuation of the brackets along the top landing, and finish against the wall. It often happens that the brackets require to be reduced in length for unders or diminished flyers, or increased for a large well, or where the risers are farther apart than on the straight flights. Figs. 8 and 9 show methods of reducing or increasing the length of the brackets, and each member proportionately. It is only necessary to describe one, as the method for both is the same. Let A be the given, and B the required bracket. Having drawn the bracket A, set off C E at any angle, the required length. Join D E, draw any number of lines on the bracket A, square to C D, draw these lines parallel to D E, and from where they cut C E square outline, and make them equal corresponding lines on the bracket A, as 3, 4 and 5 on B will equal 3, 4 and 5 on A. These brackets for the circular parts may be got out of wood; in that case the grain should be vertical, as the brackets are fixed. But for painted work the best are two pieces of linoleum glued together.

Fig. 10 shows how the cut string, which is 12 inches wide, may be got out of a 9-inch board. Shoot the bottom edge, then gauge a line on its face to equal S S, Fig. 2. Then with the compasses set off on this line, the hypothenuse of the pitch board as many times as is required, as shown by N R S H. Then with the steel square mark each going and rise, which cut, it will be found the board is not wide enough, but the pieces cut out of the corners can be glued on to make it out as shown by A and B.

In some cases, where there are no ornamental brackets, the ends of treads are cut off flush with the outside face of string, except the mitre for the return nosing, and the risers are mitred to the string.

PLATE IX.

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION.

Fig. 1 is the plan of the well and the steps, landing and starting, at the half-space landing. The lines marked C S are the direction of the cuts to be made through the circular or well string for the risers to mitre to.

Fig. 2 shows a piece of thin stuff cut to a semicircle to fit the inside of the string. This piece is laid on the plan, and the position and direction of the cuts for risers is marked on it as seen by C C.

Fig. 3 shows a section of a staved well, the joints being ploughed out and cross tongues put in as shown. Each joint must be well glued and rubbed and screwed through the back. It will be noticed it is carried past the springing into the straight on both sides; this makes a better job, as a joint made in the springing always has a crippled appearance, no matter how well the job may be done.

Fig. 4 shows a falling mould for marking the treads and risers, also the bottom edge of the well in a continuous line with the bottom edge of the two straight strings. Take a thin lath and bend it around Fig. 2, and mark on it the springing and risers, as shown by S S and R R. Lay this lath on the piece of stuff the falling mould is to be cut out of, in a horizontal position, as shown, and mark the risers and springing. Set up a step above and below the springings, and set off S S to equal S S, Fig. 2, Plate VIII. Then draw the under side of straight strings and continue it across the well, taking care to have the best possible falling line. H H shows the length the pieces forming the well will require to be. This falling mould may be made out of good stiff brown paper, or any other suitable stuff. Now bend it around on the inside of the well, and mark the treads and risers and the bottom edge. Keep the springing lines on the mould to the springing marked on the well. To mark the springing on the well take Fig. 2 and hold in the well, and mark the springing top and bottom and finish it with a straight edge. Also mark the direction of the cuts as shown by the lines marked C.

Fig. 5 shows how the well is fixed to the straight strings. This must be all fitted in the shop ready to slide up in its place when the stairs are fixed, when it should be well glued, wedged and screwed. The circular string for the starting and top landing of Fig. 1, Plate VII., may be got out and fixed in the same way. These kind of wells answer the purpose for which they are used, but they are not so strong as a veneered well, which is shown on Plate XI.

Fig. 6 shows the step starting from the half-space landing. This step is slightly curved at the end to make it the same width on the end as the rest. The risers, starting and landing are laid down to suit the rail, as shown in Plate XVII.

Fig. 7 shows the return nosing for this step.

Fig. 8 shows the landing step. This is got out long enough to reach from wall to wall. This step is glued up in the shop with the rest; the nosing is worked on the solid and returned as far as E, about 2 or 3 inches on. The scotia is fixed around the circular part after all is fixed.

Fig. 9 shows the top landing step. This too goes from wall to wall, and is treated in the same way as Fig. 8, only the nosing is worked from end to end.

PLATE X.

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION, SHOWING AN APPARATUS FOR MARKING THE LENGTH AND CUTS OF BALUSTERS AROUND THE CIRCULAR PARTS.

Fig. 1 shows part plan of stairs for a side wreath starting from a newel. The farther out the newel stands, within reason, the better will be the appearance, provided it does not obstruct the passage in any way.

Fig. 2 shows the construction of the curved steps. Let the pieces marked A be in two pieces, as shown, glued and screwed together, with the grain crossing each other as much as possible. The riser is reduced, as shown, as far as the work goes, to within about 3 inches of the end, as shown by B. The little piece of straight on the face of riser at B can be cleaned off in continuation of the curve after it is glued up. Screw through the blocks into the end of riser at B, then bend the veneer around, put on hand-screws to hold the riser and block together while wedging, and before removing the hand-screws put in the screws as shown. The scotia is screwed to the under side of the tread, and holes bored in the bottom edge of riser so as to get a screw-*driver in, and screw the riser on from the bottom, the screws going through the scotia into the tread.

Fig. 3 shows the block for a curtail step. The step is struck from the same centres as the handrail, which is explained on plate. The block is got out in three thicknesses; the grain of two pieces can run in the same direction as the riser, and the middle pieces in the direction of S S. The balusters will regulate the size of the block, as shown. This step is constructed on the same principle as Fig. 2, the scotia being in the solid. The nosing will be worked on the tread in the solid and returned at R through the string. The piece marked H is a piece of ¼-inch iron twisted so as to screw to the under side of the tread and to the inside of the string. The last baluster on the step should be iron, shouldered to fit on the top of the tread, and a ¾ pin on it to go through the step, with a thread for a nut to screw it up tight from the bottom. They are sometimes run in with sulphur instead of the nut; in that case it can be fixed after the step is fixed, but the nut makes the best job.

Fig. 4 shows an apparatus for cutting up the balusters around the wreaths. It is a very simple affair, easily made and easily applied; it makes a perfect fit, and the saving of time is very great. The box is made the size of the baluster on the inside, the back C is 1½ inch thick, and the sides ¾ inch. The pieces marked A are cut as shown, and slotted, a couple of screws are screwed into the sides with washers on, for A to slide up and down. B is a piece of zinc screwed on to A, as shown, with the head countersunk flush. B must be about ⅛ inch narrower than the balusters, so as to go into the groove of the under side of handrail. The screws in B must be so that they can be turned either way with the fingers, while those in the sides must be so that A will slide up and down easy. The box will be about 2 feet long, cut off perfectly square at the bottom end. To mark the balusters, stand the box on the tread so that the inside of it will be immediately over where the baluster has to go. Slide up A on either side so that B will go into the groove of the under side of the handrail, then turn B on both sides to fit the rail. Take it away and lay it down, and lay the baluster in it, and mark it top and bottom. The dovetail has of course to be added. The distance between the two pieces of zinc must be the same as the balusters and inside of the box, and the centre of B must be in a line with the centre of the side of inside of box.

Fig. 5 shows the plan, and Fig. 6 the sectional elevation, of a part of stairs, with winders in the quarter space, and a quarter space landing to give access to a doorway. The dotted lines show the carriages and landing. The back edges of the treads are kept ½ inch beyond the back of risers to form a ledge. The cross piece G is fixed to receive the carriages, as shown. The pieces F are fixed, as shown, let into the wall one end, and fixed to the back of the well the other. These pieces are fixed under each tread flush with the back edge, the width depends upon the well string; they are kept so that the plaster will finish flush with the bottom of the well. The short carriages C are cut tight in between F and F, and they must be wide enough to notch over the projection of the back edge of the treads, as shown by E, Fig. 6. If these short carriages are cut in tight it makes a good sound job, and rough brackets can be nailed on them, and blocked and glued as for the straight parts. The laths will go from F to F. D is put in to take the laths, as the distance here from F to F is too much without them, and E is to take the ends of laths along the wall. The landing will be understood. The joists K are put in to receive the floor and laths.

Fig. 7 shows the joint of the two diagonal joists.

Fig. 8 shows the joints at the external angle of the landing, the bolt going through the three, J A H, as shown.

PLATE XI.

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION.

Fig. 1 is an enlarged plan of Fig. 1, Plate X. The face of risers must be set off on the centre line of rail to suit the falling line of handrail, which should be ascertained first. The line of travel is 15 inches from the centre line of rail, and the winders are divided on this line.

Fig. 2 shows the development. Cut a piece of thin board to fit the face of string around the zinc circle on plan, as shown by Fig. 3. Bend a thin lath around it, and mark the springing on to it and all risers between. Lay this lath on Fig. 2, and mark the springing and position of risers, as shown. The position of risers outside of the springing can of course be taken off the plan. Draw one or two full size steps top and bottom, and a part of the straight strings as shown. Continue the bottom edge of string to form a nice easy falling line connecting the straight parts, as shown by the curved parts, Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 shows a cylinder made to fit the inside face of the circular string. Before the veneer is put on, glue some paper all over the outside of this cylinder and let it dry. Then, should any glue get between the veneer and cylinder, it will pull the paper off instead of sticking to the wood, and perhaps break the veneer; the paper can be washed off. Bend the lath around the cylinder on top of the paper, and mark the springing, as shown, on both sides. Do this at both ends, and mark the springing down the sides with a straight-edge. Now get a piece of veneer a full 1/16 inch thick, the size shown by the straight dotted lines, Fig. 2. Cut the bottom edge to the curve S S. Mark the springing and each step on the veneer. It is as well to mark these on both sides. In putting this on the cylinder take care to have it the right hand. Fix on one side first with a hand-screw, so that the springing on the veneer is on the springing on the cylinder, then bend it around and fasten the other side temporarily. Then get two pieces of veneer, ⅛ inch thick and about 1 inch wide, cut to the shape of the curves S S and N N. Now bend the two pieces around on the top of the first piece, keeping the edge S S flush with the bottom edge of the large veneer. It will be seen that the three thicknesses of veneer will form the sinking in the string 5/16 inch deep. Next get a piece the exact thickness of the sinking 5/16 inch, and cut it to the shape of the sinking, as seen at Fig. 5. Put plenty of saw kerfs in the direction shown, that is, parallel to the springing. Let the kerfs go past the springing a bit on both ends. Now bend this around the cylinder with the kerfs next to it, and the edge close up to the veneers. Now get the staves about 2 inches by 2 inches, and bevel the edges to fit each other around the circle and hollow the under side to fit in the veneer, also cut the ends out to fit over the sinking. Start one side first with straight pieces as far as the springing and screw it down, then work from this piece and go right around, screwing each piece as it is fitted, until they are all on. Next start in the centre and take off one side, numbering each piece as it is taken off, lift up each of the three pieces of veneer and glue between them, screw the staves on again except the centre one, take them off on the other side and glue in the same way, after which screw on all the staves again. To glue the staves, again start in the centre and take off one, well glue the bottom next to the veneer and screw it down tight. Take off the next one to it and glue the bottom and side going against the one already glued. Repeat this process until all are fixed, but never glue more than one at a time. It may be found necessary to steam the veneer. This is sometimes done in a box made for the purpose, where there is steam to be had, but failing that, boiling in the glue-pot is used. But this is not a good thing to do if it can be avoided, as the dryer it is put on the better for the job.

Fig. 6 shows an enlarged section through the joint A B, Fig. 4. F is a section of Fig. 5.

Fig. 7 shows the well in position. If a ⅝-inch bead is used for the bottom edge, a piece of ⅝-inch cane can be bent around the well in continuation of the bead. This work must be all fitted before it leaves the bench, ready to go into its place when fixed.

_HANDRAILING._

The handrail is that portion of the fence carried up on the outside of the stairs and supported by the balusters, which are let into the ends of the treads. While these balusters form protection, the rail is to assist in the ascent and descent of the stairs. It is very evident the rail should be a uniform height over the line of nosings. This height should be 2 feet 8 inches, measured vertically over the face of risers, from the top side of tread to the top side of rail. And it will be seen that the risers around the circular parts should be placed so as to have the best possible falling line of rail, while the balusters should be, if anything, a trifle longer than on the straight parts.

The method adopted in this work is as follows:--The plan of centre line of rail is first laid down, and the tangents and face of risers drawn. Next the centre line of rail is unfolded, or developed, on a board, with position of risers thereon. Then the centre falling line of rail is drawn, resting on the corners of the full-size steps and continued across the well. And here it is where good taste and judgment is required, so as to get a good falling. After the falling line has been drawn it will be seen at once if any improvement can be made in the position of the risers. The development of tangents is next drawn to suit the falling line of rail.