Part 1

Transcriber's Note: Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have been retained as printed.

Words printed in italics are noted with underscores: _italics_.

The Table of Contents was not present in the original text and has been produced for the reader's convenience.

PRACTICAL ITALIAN RECIPES FOR AMERICAN KITCHENS

SOLD TO AID THE FAMILIES OF ITALIAN SOLDIERS

COPYRIGHTED, 1917

Contents

Soups

BROWN STOCK _Sugo di Carne_

VEGETABLE CHOWDER _Minestrone alla Milanese_

FRENCH ONION SOUP _Minestra di Cipolla alla Francese_

PARADISE SOUP _Minestra del Paradiso_

PEA SOUP _Zuppa di Piselli_

BEAN SOUP _Zuppa di Fagiuoli_

QUEEN'S SOUP _Zuppa Regina_

VEGETABLE SOUP _Zuppa Sauté_

SOUP WITH LITTLE HATS _Cappelletti all' uso di Romagna_

Vegetables

MILANESE RICE _Risotto alla Milanese I_

RICE WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS _Risotto alla Milanese II_

RICE AND PEAS _Risotto coi Piselli_

STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE _Fagiuolini in Salsa d'Uovo_

FRIED CELERY _Sedano Fritto_

BOILED CELERY _Sedano per Contorno_

BOILED CAULIFLOWER _Cavolfiore in Umido_

VEGETABLES ALLA NAPOLITANA _Giambotto alla Napolitana_

EGGPLANT WITH TOMATO SAUCE _Melanzana in Umido_

BAKED EGGPLANT WITH CHEESE _Tortino di Melanzana alla Parmigiana_

POTATOES "STUFATO" _Stufato di Patate_

MOULD OF PEAS OR BEANS _Sformato di Fagiuolini o Piselli_

MOULD OF SPINACH _Stampa di Spinaci_

Eggs

EGGS ALL' AURORA

TOMATOES WITH EGGS

Corn Meal Dishes

CORN MEAL LOAF _Pasticcio di Polenta_

POLENTA PIE _Polenta Pasticciata_

Spaghetti and Other Pastas

GNOCCHI OF FARINA OR CORNMEAL _Gnocchi alla Romana_

SPAGHETTI WITH ANCHOVIES

SPAGHETTI ALLA NAPOLITANA

NOODLES OR HOME MADE PASTE _Tagliatelli o Pasta Fatta in Casa_

RAVIOLI

RAVIOLI WITH MEAT _Ravioli alla Genovese_

NOODLES WITH HAM _Tagliatelle col Presciutto_

Sauces

BOLOGNESE SAUCE FOR MACARONI _Maccheroni alla Bolognese_

TOMATO SAUCE _Salsa di Pomidoro_

WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED ASPARAGUS OR CAULIFLOWER _Salsa Bianca_

PIQUANT SAUCE _Salsa Piccante_

Fish

SALMON ALLA FIORENTINA

CODFISH "STUFATO" _Stufato di Baccala_

CODFISH CROQUETTES _Cotolette di Baccala_

Meats

FRIED CHIPPED VEAL _Frittura Piccata_

SCALLOPED MEAT _Piatto di Carne Avanzata_

MEAT SOUFFLÉ _Flam di Carne Avanzata_

MEAT OMELETTE _Polpettone_

STEW OF BEEF OR VEAL WITH MACARONI _Stufato di Vitello con Maccheroni_

PIGEONS IN CORNMEAL _Piccioni con Polenta_

SMOTHERED CHICKEN _Stufato di Pollo_

CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORA _Pollo alla Cacciatora_

BOILED FOWL WITH RICE _Lesso di Pollo col Riso_

STUFFING FOR ROAST CHICKEN OR TURKEY _Ripieno_

Sweets

CHOCOLATE PUDDING _Budino di Cioccolata_

ZABAIONE

MONT BLANC _Monte Bianco, Dolce di Castagne_

NUT CAKE

PASTA MARGUERITA

BIGNÉ

_FOREWORD_

In this world war we are learning many lessons from our Allies beside those of the battle field. The housewives of the old world have much to teach us in thrift, especially in the kitchen. Italian cooking--not that of the large hotel or restaurant, but the _cucina casalinga_ of the little roadside hostelry and of the home where the mother, or some deft handmaid trained in the art from infancy, is priestess at the tiny charcoal stove--is at once so frugal and so delicious that we do well to study it with close attention.

If you have ever sat at a snowy table in the garden of some wayside inn in the Appennines, a savory dish of _risotto_ before you and the music of the mountain torrent far below in your ears; or sipped a _zabaione_ in the portico of a cafe on the sun-baked piazza of some brown old town clinging to a hillside of Umbria; or eaten _fritto misto_ on a _pensione_ terrace overhanging the sapphire Gulf of Naples, one of those inimitable haunts of comfort kept by a handsome Italian dame who served her apprenticeship in Anglo-Saxon ways as an English lady's maid; if any of these experiences have been yours you do not need to be convinced of the inimitable charms of the Italian cuisine.

The Italian housewife uses quantities of vegetables, many soups and made dishes containing only a small proportion of meat and that the inexpensive cuts. Vegetable salads are a staple, while fresh or dried fruits, coffee, cheese and nuts are the regular dessert. The elaborate creations for which the Italian confectioner is justly famous are reserved for festal occasions.

At first reading many of the recipes may sound elaborate, but in using them it is well to bear in mind the general plan of the Italian menu. Each dish is usually served as a course in itself. A good soup, a savory dish of spaghetti, rice or vegetables combined with meat, a crisp salad dressed with oil and vinegar, followed by a piece of fruit, a bit of cheese and black coffee make a characteristic Italian meal and one with which an epicure could find no fault. It is a meal, moreover, in keeping with the suggestions of our Food Administrator that we use a minimum of meats and sweets and a maximum of soups, fruits, vegetables, made dishes and cheese.

This little venture is launched in the hope that the booklet may pay its way in new suggestions to American homemakers while it is earning money to prevent Italian homes from being destroyed. The expenses incident to publication have been contributed, so that every penny from the sale of every copy is forwarded direct to responsible people in Italy who will use it for food and clothing for the families of Italian soldiers.

Additional copies may be had at fifty cents apiece, from Julia Lovejoy Cuniberti, 14 West Milwaukee street, Janesville, Wisconsin.

_SUGGESTIONS_

TOMATO PASTE. This is a concentrated paste made from tomatoes and spices to be had of importers or grocers in Italian neighborhoods. Thinned with water, it is a much used ingredient in Italian recipes. Catsup and concentrated tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes as they are too sweet in flavor, but canned tomatoes seasoned with salt and a bit of bay leaf, cooked down to a thick cream and rubbed through a sieve, serve very well in lieu of tomato paste.

PARMESAN CHEESE. When an Italian recipe calls for grated cheese it usually means Parmesan. This is practically unobtainable now, except the grated, bottled cheese, which is inferior in flavor. Gruyère, our own brick cheese, or any skim milk cheese dried and grated fresh as needed makes a good substitute.

DRIED MUSHROOMS. These may be had of importers or small groceries in foreign neighborhoods. They sound expensive until one realizes that a very few ounces go a long way. They make a pleasing variety added to soups or sauces, and are much cheaper and more highly flavored than the canned mushrooms. They should be thoroughly washed and softened in warm water before using.

ANCHOVIES. These recipes do not call for the filets of anchovy prepared for _hors-d'oeuvres_, but the less expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. To clean them plunge in boiling water. This loosens the skin and removes superfluous salt. Remove head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for use.

GARLIC. Garlic is an inoffensive and wholesome ingredient if properly handled. Used in small quantities and thoroughly cooked it gives an indescribable flavor that is never disagreeable. By "a clove of garlic" is meant one of the tiny sections of a whole garlic peeled down to its white, fleshy core.

SUBSTITUTION OF OTHER INGREDIENTS. Many of the recipes which have been written down just as they were given can be made more economical and no less delicious by the substitution of clarified drippings, vegetable shortenings and corn or nut oils for salt pork, butter or bacon. Corn-starch is recommended for thickening instead of flour. Anyone who does not care for as much cheese or tomato as the Italian likes, may omit them entirely or greatly reduce the quantity in most of the recipes and still have an excellent dish.

[Sidenote: _Soups_]

BROWN STOCK

_Sugo di Carne_

1 lb. beef from some tough but juicy cut A small piece of salt pork A large onion A stalk of celery 2 tablespoons butter A carrot 2 cloves Salt, pepper

Chop the pork and put it in the bottom of a saucepan. Next add the onion, celery and carrot chopped. Dot with butter and over this place the meat cut into small pieces. Add any trimmings from steaks, roasts or chops that may be on hand and any bits of left over cooked meat. Season with salt and the cloves. Put over the fire without stirring. When you smell the onions getting very brown turn the meat and when everything is extremely brown add a cup of water and let it cook almost dry. Repeat this operation of adding the water three times. Finally add three pints of boiling water and let it boil gently five or six hours, when the stock will be reduced to a few cupfuls. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on top of the liquid.

The meat may afterwards be used for a _Flam_, for _Polpettone_ or croquettes. The stock may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes. In soups it is far superior to beef extract or bouillon cubes which may be substituted for it.

VEGETABLE CHOWDER

_Minestrone alla Milanese_

1/2 lb. salt pork 2 or 3 sprigs parsley 1 kernel garlic 2 carrots 1/4 medium sized cabbage 1 scant cup dried beans, Lima or kidney, soaked over night 2 quarts cold water A little celery Any left over peas 1 tablespoon butter Rice, salt and pepper

Cut off the rind of the pork and put it into 2 quarts of water to boil. Cut off a small slice of the pork and beat it to a paste with the parsley and garlic. Add this paste to the pork and water. Slice the carrots, cut the rib out of the cabbage leaves. Add the carrots, cabbage leaves, other vegetables, seasoning and butter to the soup, and let it boil slowly for 2-1/2 hours. The last 1/2 hour add 1 small handful of rice for each person.

When the pork is very soft, remove and slice in little ribbons and put it back.

This is equally good eaten cold. Three bouillon cubes may be used instead of pork, or may be added if a richer soup is desired.

_Mme. Varesi._

FRENCH ONION SOUP

_Minestra di Cipolla alla Francese_

4 large onions 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil or meat drippings 1/4 lb. Swiss or American brick cheese, grated 1 quart to 3 pints soup stock or boiling water 4 slices of stale bread toasted, salt, pepper

Peel the onions and slice them very thin. Fry them slowly in the fat until they are a uniform golden brown, using a kettle deep enough to hold the water afterwards. When the onions are thoroughly fried add the hot water, cover and let simmer at least three-quarters of an hour, seasoning to taste. The onions will make a clean brown liquor without the use of any meat but soup stock may be used instead of water, or beef extract or bouillon cubes may be added to the water if a meat soup is preferred.

Put the soup in a hot tureen, add the toast cut into triangles and sprinkle it over with the grated cheese. Serve as soon as the toast and cheese have been added.

PARADISE SOUP

_Minestra del Paradiso_

4 tablespoons sifted bread crumbs 4 tablespoons grated cheese 1 quart white soup stock or clear broth 3 eggs Nutmeg Salt, pepper

Beat the whites of the eggs, then beat in the yolks. Add the breadcrumbs gradually, then the grated cheese, a pinch of salt and a grating of nutmeg. These ingredients should form a thin batter.

Have the broth boiling and drop the batter into it by spoonfuls. Let it boil three or four minutes and serve immediately. The batter will poach in soft, curdled lumps in the clear soup.

This soup is much used as a delicacy for invalids. In this case the cheese may be scanted or omitted entirely. By way of variety a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley may be added to the batter, or a half a cup of spinach drained and rubbed through a sieve may be substituted for half of the breadcrumbs.

When stock or broth is not available, it may be made from bouillon cubes and a lump of butter dissolved in boiling water and seasoned with celery salt, onion salt and pepper.

_Signora Maria Ronchi-Cuniberti._

PEA SOUP

_Zuppa di Piselli_

1 pint peas; fresh peas, canned peas or dried peas soaked over night 2 tablespoons oil or butter substitute 1 small onion 1 small carrot A sprig of parsley 2 oz. ham, fat and lean A piece of celery A bay leaf Salt, pepper

Chop fine or put through a meat grinder the ham, onion, carrot and celery, add the parsley chopped or clipped fine with scissors, and the bay leaf. Fry all this in the oil until it is golden brown, but not at all scorched. Add one pint of boiling water and the peas. If this cooks away add more water as needed until the peas are tender. Rub the soup through a sieve. Serve this soup garnished with croutons or toast triangles, and send a dish of grated cheese to the table with it to be added according to individual taste.

BEAN SOUP

_Zuppa di Fagiuoli_

1 cup dried beans, Kidney, Navy or Lima 1/4 cup oil 1/4 onion 1 clove of garlic 1 sprig of parsley 1 piece of celery 1 cup canned tomatoes

Soak the beans over night. Boil until tender. Many cooks put the beans to cook in cold water with a pinch of soda. When they come to a boil, pour off this water and add fresh.

Chop fine the onion, garlic, parsley and celery and put them to fry in the oil with salt and a generous amount of pepper. When the vegetables are a delicate brown add to them two cups of the broth from the beans, and the tomatoes. Let all come to a boil and pour the mixture into the kettle of beans from which some of the water has been drained, if they are very liquid. This soup may be served as it is or rubbed through a sieve before serving. Croutons or triangles of dry toast make an excellent addition.

QUEEN'S SOUP

_Zuppa Regina_

1 cup cooked chicken 1/4 cup bread crumbs 1/4 cup milk Yolk of 1 egg, if desired 5 or 6 blanched almonds 1 quart chicken stock 1 slice stale bread Fat for deep frying

Grind the meat and almonds in a meat grinder, or chop very fine. Soak the bread crumbs in the milk, and rub all these ingredients to a very smooth paste. Add the hot broth. If you wish the soup to be richer and have a more milky consistency use the yolk of an egg, which should be beaten and have a few tablespoons of the hot broth stirred into it before adding to the soup. Do not let the soup boil after the egg is added or it will curdle.

Cut the stale bread into cubes and fry in deep fat. Put these croutons in the soup, and send it to the table with a dish of grated cheese.

VEGETABLE SOUP

_Zuppa Sauté_

Many kinds of vegetables may be used for this soup, carrots, celery, cabbage, turnips, onions, potatoes, spinach, the outside leaves of lettuce or greens of any variety.

Select three or four kinds of vegetables. Shred or chop coarsely cabbage or greens, and slice or cut in cubes the root vegetables. Put them over the fire with a small quantity of cooking oil or butter substitute, and let them fry until they have absorbed the fat. Then add broth and cook until the vegetables are very tender. Fry croutons of stale bread in oil and serve them in the soup.

In this, as in other recipes, water may be used instead of broth if the latter is not available, and bouillon cubes or beef extract added just as the hot soup is removed from the fire.

SOUP WITH LITTLE HATS

_Cappelletti all' uso di Romagna_

Equal parts curds or cottage cheese and cooked meat (chicken, pork or veal) Grated cheese 1 egg Grated lemon peel Nutmeg, allspice, salt

Grind the meat very fine and make a highly seasoned mixture of it and all the other ingredients. The ground meat may be sautéed in a little butter or drippings before it is mixed with the other ingredients to improve the flavor. Cut rounds measuring about three inches in diameter from a thin sheet of paste made according to the recipe on page 20. Place a spoonful of the filling in the middle of each circle of paste. Fold over and moisten the edge of the paste with the finger dipped in water to make it stay securely closed. These _cappelletti_ should be cooked in chicken or turkey broth until the paste is tender, and served with this broth as a soup.

This is a time-honored Christmas dainty in Italy.

[Sidenote: _Vegetables_]

MILANESE RICE

_Risotto alla Milanese I_

1 lb. rice A medium sized onion 4 tablespoons butter, or oil Salt Curry powder, 1/2 teaspoon Grated cheese

Chop the onion very fine, or put it through a meat grinder. Put it to cook in the butter, until it is soft and yellow. Wash the rice and add it to the onion and butter, stirring constantly so that it will not stick. Salt it and add boiling water, a little at a time, until the rice is cooked tender, yet not too soft, with each grain distinct. Dissolve the curry powder in a tablespoon of cold water and add to the rice. Take from the fire and serve very hot after mixing into it a handful of grated cheese. The delicacy of this dish is lost if it is overcooked or allowed to cool.

_Signorina Irene Merlani._

RICE WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS

_Risotto alla Milanese II_

1 lb. rice The giblets of a chicken Cooking oil or chicken fat 1 egg Chicken broth Onion Grated cheese Salt and pepper

The broth for this _Risotto_ may be made by cooking together the giblets, neck and tips of wings of a chicken which is to be roasted, or it may be made from the remnants of roast fowl.

Boil the rice until it is about half done in salted water. Then let the water cook away and begin adding the broth, in such quantity that the rice will be nearly dry when it is tender. Fry the chopped onion in the oil or fat. Some mushrooms cut up small are a very good addition to this "soffritto." Mince the chicken giblets and add to the onion. Stir this mixture into the rice. Add grated cheese and a beaten egg just as the rice is taken from the fire.

RICE AND PEAS

_Risotto coi Piselli_

1 cup rice 1 tablespoon oil 1 tablespoon butter 1/2 onion Grated cheese A small can of peas

Clean the rice. Chop the onion fine and fry it a golden color in the oil. Put in the rice and stir it until it has absorbed all the oil. Salt and add boiling water. Boil until the rice is tender, taking care to keep plenty of water on it until the very end when it should cook almost dry. Drain the peas and add them toward the end of the cooking. Grated cheese is a good addition to this dish.

STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE

_Fagiuolini in Salsa d'Uovo_

1 lb. green or wax beans Butter, salt and pepper Yolk of 1 egg 1 teaspoon cornstarch or flour Juice of 1/4 lemon 3/4 cup soup stock

String the beans and parboil them in salted, boiling water. Drain, cut up into inch pieces and season with butter, salt and pepper. Beat the egg yolk in a sauce pan. Beat in the flour and lemon juice, add the stock (cold water will do) and cook the mixture over a moderate fire until it thickens. Pour over the hot beans and let remain over the fire a moment so that they will absorb the flavor of the sauce but not long enough to curdle the egg.

FRIED CELERY

_Sedano Fritto_

Cut the outside stalks of celery into pieces 3 to 4 inches long, and strip off the coarsest fibres. Cook in water until soft and transparent. Drain in colander. When it is as dry as possible roll each piece separately in flour, and sauté separately, not in a mass, in butter, vegetable oil or drippings, with salt and pepper. Each piece must be turned to cook on both sides.

Swiss chard may be cooked in the same way.

_Mme. Varesi._

BOILED CELERY

_Sedano per Contorno_

Cook the outside stalks of celery, cut into small pieces, in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. Drain and sauté in a very little butter. Add a few tablespoons of brown stock and simmer until tender. Sprinkle with grated cheese if desired, before serving.

BOILED CAULIFLOWER

_Cavolfiore in Umido_

A small strip of salt pork 1/4 onion 1 tablespoon butter or oil A large cauliflower Tomato paste[1] Salt, pepper, allspice A little sausage meat Grated cheese

Chop fine the onion and salt pork, and brown together, adding the butter and spices. Add enough tomato paste and boiling water to moisten the mixture thoroughly, and let it boil a few minutes. Then add the finely chopped sausage and more water as necessary to keep it boiling.

Wash and quarter the cauliflower and cook it for ten minutes in boiling, slightly salted water. Drain it and add it to the sauce, and simmer slowly until tender. Be careful not to cook it so long that it gets mushy. Grated cheese may be sprinkled over it before serving.

Cabbage may be cooked in the same way.

_Signorina Irene Merlani._

[1] See Suggestions, page 5.

VEGETABLES ALLA NAPOLITANA

_Giambotto alla Napolitana_

1/4 onion An eggplant A few tablespoons oil Fresh or canned tomatoes Two or three green peppers One or two potatoes Salt, pepper Zucchini

Zucchini are a kind of small squash for sale in groceries and markets of the Italian neighborhoods of our large cities. Summer or winter squash, ripe cucumber or even pumpkin make good substitutes.

Chop the onion and fry in oil. The other vegetables should be in proportion to each other. For example, if there is a cupful of each of the other vegetables when they are cut up, use a cupful of tomatoes unless you wish the tomato flavor to be very pronounced. Peel and cube the potatoes, eggplant and squash. Remove the seeds and stems from the peppers and slice or shred them coarsely. Add the tomatoes to the onion and oil. After that has cooked a few minutes add the potatoes. When they are half done, put in the peppers, lastly the eggplant, squash, and salt and pepper. Continue cooking until the vegetables are tender but still whole and firm.

_Roma Pavilion Restaurant, Chicago._

EGGPLANT WITH TOMATO SAUCE

_Melanzana in Umido_

Peel and cut up the eggplant. Salt it and let it stand for an hour or so to draw out the bitter juices. Drain and sauté in a little oil or drippings. Add tomato sauce[2] and simmer a few moments until tender.

[2] See page 23.

BAKED EGGPLANT WITH CHEESE

_Tortino di Melanzana alla Parmigiana_

The eggplant should be prepared as for ordinary frying, that is, it should be peeled, sliced and the slices sprinkled with salt and left under a weighted plate for some time to extract the bitter juices. Sauté the slices in oil or lard. Line a baking dish with them. Fill the center of the dish with hard boiled eggs and cheese cut into little pieces. Add to this filling enough grated cheese and tomato sauce to flavor it to taste. Cover the top with another layer of the fried eggplant and a little more tomato sauce. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes.

_Roma Pavilion Restaurant, Chicago._

POTATOES "STUFATO"

_Stufato di Patate_

2 lbs. potatoes 1 tablespoon flour 4 tablespoons butter 1 pint milk Grated cheese Salt, pepper

Peel the potatoes and cut them into little pieces. Cook in boiling water for ten minutes. Take them out, drain thoroughly, and put in a saucepan, sprinkling them with flour, then adding the butter and milk. Cover the pan and let the potatoes cook slowly for a quarter of an hour or until thoroughly done. Season well with salt and pepper and a generous amount of grated cheese before serving.

_Signorina Irene Merlani._

MOULD OF PEAS OR BEANS

_Sformato di Fagiuolini o Piselli_