Part 2

The plank frame is admirably adapted to such a building as that described, and can be quite cheaply constructed. In Fig. 1 of the sketches is shown one of the bents near the end on which the band stand is located, indicating the manner in which it is suspended from the roof by the rods A A, together with truss rod B. The galleries appear at either side, above which and beneath the eaves are the windows. If lighted by dormer windows, or if artificial light is employed, the shed roofs may be of the same pitch and a continuation of the roof of the main building, in which case the galleries may extend back beneath the roof of the sheds, and they need not extend out further than the purlin posts. The sketch, Fig. 2, shows an interior bent without the band stand. The end bents will be constructed in a manner similar to that shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of my article on plank frame barns. A 200-foot building should have 17 bents placed 12½ feet apart.

Construction of Plank Frame Basement Barn.

_From_ S. H., _Minneapolis, Minn._—I would like to have the readers experienced in plank frame barn construction comment upon the plans of the basement barn which I send herewith and from which I intend to build next summer. I would like very much to know the weak points of the barn and the best way to remedy them. I think the drawings showing the plans and details are so clear as to practically explain themselves.

Criticism of Plank Frame Barn Construction.

_From_ JOHN L. SHAWVER, _Bellefontaine, Ohio_.—In response to the wish of “S. H.,” Minneapolis, Minn., I offer a few suggestions in connection with his proposed plank frame basement barn. It is well, indeed, that he should insist on knowing what he is doing, for many have made blunders because they attempted to build plank frames without having first investigated the proper method of construction. Too many guess at it. As pioneers in this work, we started, 25 years ago, on small structures, and month by month studied and contrived until a system was evolved that is adapted to barn structures of any reasonable size. Each point has been carefully tested as we proceeded, and if not fully satisfactory was discarded for something better. We now have over 7000 structures in some 44 States and provinces, some of them quite large, and have received many gratifying testimonials as to their strength, durability and cheapness.

The floor plans submitted by “S. H.” are very good in design and arrangement, save that the hay chutes are made to appear directly over one of the main girders. Of course, this he would discover and rectify. Should it be difficult to obtain 8 × 8 stuff for posts and 8 × 10 for girders, the former may very easily be constructed of two 2 × 8’s and two 2 × 4’s, box pattern, thus saving something in materials and risk from dry rot. The girders might be made of two 4 × 10’s, or four 2 × 10’s, leaving an air space of 2 inches in the middle and saving the necessity of making mortises.

The drawings indicate the use of two 2 × 12’s and one 2 × 8 for cross sills, the 2 × 8 being flat. In my opinion, the 2 × 8 is needless. The plates are all flatwise, while they must sustain much weight. We prefer purlin plates set on edge at right angles with the combined pressure of both sets of rafters. The main plates we make of three 2 × 6 inch, or 2 × 8 inch, according to the size of the structure when on edge to sustain the weight and two to sustain the outward pressure of the roof and the contents of the building. In this case, the purlins should incline 45 degrees.

The drawings of the correspondent indicate that the nailers are cut to fit between the posts, in which case they must be mortised, gained or toe nailed. The first two require unnecessary work, while the latter is not strong enough. If the bents are constructed in three sections, they will be tedious to raise in position. If completed before raising, they will be weak at the purlin plate. The drawings indicate also that staging would be required in setting the upper frame, and that quite a large amount of the work is done as the frame is being raised. In our experience we never use any staging, and we do most of the work from the ground before beginning to set for the frame. Most men can work more rapidly on the ground, with all materials handy, than they can aloft, where materials must be drawn up with ropes. I believe “S. H.” can save enough on labor alone to pay his expenses to go to some point and see one of our plank frame constructions. Besides, he will find wherein he can greatly improve upon his method of construction. Those who are within convenient reach to do so can visit the barn of Dr. W. I. Chamberlain, near Cleveland, Ohio, which is easily accessible by railroad, while the doctor, who is one of the editors of the _Ohio Farmer_, takes great delight in showing his barn to visitors. This barn, which is 40 × 82 feet in size, required four carpenters two and a half days to frame and two hours and fifteen minutes to raise.

We do not usually give name and address of our patrons, because it leads to much inconvenience to them. Should any of the readers write to Dr. Chamberlain, I would suggest that they inclose a stamped envelope, properly addressed, for reply.

Criticism of Plank Frame Barn Construction.

_From_ J. M. B., _Monroeton, Pa._—In the December issue of _Carpentry and Building_, page 327, the correspondent “S. H.” of Minneapolis wants to know the weak points of his barn frame, a sketch of which was presented in connection with his communication. I think one weak point is what he calls the plate in the gable, which is made of two 2 × 8 inch pieces, equal to a 4 × 8 inch, with a span of at least 30 feet between purlin posts, which are only 2 × 6 inches. In my opinion, with the hay mow filled with hay, the gable will bulge or spring out, as the weight, 45 to 50 tons, will exert quite a pressure. As to the remedy I am not so clear. He might use a flat truss or a beam large enough to stand the pressure; one, say, 16 inches wide at the center and tapering to 8 inches at each end. I will say, in conclusion, that I have had no experience with plank frames.

Is the Barn Frame of Sufficient Strength?

_From_ C. G., _Vergennes, Vt._—I send herewith a rough sketch of bent of barn which I intend to put up in the spring. It is 30 feet wide and has 26-foot posts. What I wish to know is this: Is the truss strong enough to carry the load that will be put upon it? I would like to have the “wood butchers” take hold of it and tear it apart and tell me what to put in its place.

_From_ JOHN L. SHAWVER, _Bellefontaine, Ohio_.—Permit me to offer a substitute for the barn frame proposed by the correspondent “C. G.” of Vergennes, Vt., in the March issue of the paper. His timber trusses take up too much room, and at the same time the timbers are too expensive for this day and age. We place a little more timber in the joist bearer and prefer it in a different shape. He suggests 7 × 8 inches, and this would be 30 feet in length. We would use three 2 × 10’s, and could use any lengths to make the 30 feet; consequently our timbers could be purchased at much less cost. Instead of the 7 × 8 inch truss timbers we would use two wire cables made of galvanized wire, seven strands, and doubled. While we would use a little heavier posts in the stables, the posts of the superstructure would contain only about one-half as much material, but this, too, we would prefer of different shape. In place of the 7 × 8 inch we would use two 2 × 8’s, and instead of the beam we would prefer the arch and the angling purlin posts, and thus have the interior entirely free from all timbers.

After 20 years’ experience in building barns without the cross beams it would require peculiar conditions to induce us to use them, for they are continuously in the way, both when storing away hay or grain and when getting these out again for the thresher or for the feeding of stock. The upper portion of the frame submitted by “C. G.” does not show any braces, and we are at a loss to know if there is to be none, or if these were omitted because it is not that portion of the structure that is under consideration. Let me say, however, that that is one of the most prevalent mistakes in the construction of a barn. There are too few braces, and the first baby tornado that happens to pass that way will “lay it out in fine shape.” While we use plenty of braces, they are usually only 2 × 6 inches, and so do not take timber very rapidly. The geometrical triangle is the strongest figure one can secure, and it is with that idea always in mind that we do our barn work.

Bents for 12-Sided Plank Frame Barn.

_From_ J. D., _Ubly, Mich._—I send herewith a rough sketch, Fig. 1, showing one of the bents of a 12-sided plank frame barn, and would like to have the architectural readers of the paper state whether or not it will be strong enough for the purpose, and, if not, wherein changes can be made to advantage.

_Note._—With a view to obtaining the opinion of an expert who has had long experience in the construction of plank frame barns, we submitted the inquiry of our correspondent above to John L. Shawver, who furnishes the following in reply:

In the first place, the purlin posts in the sketch of the correspondent are so sloping that while they brace well they are not in position to sustain the most weight, and these with the roof supports are so long that they have to be spliced. While this is easily done in the case of posts, it is not so readily performed with supports, and, when so done, it will not present as attractive an appearance as would otherwise be the case.

In the second place, one of the weakest points about the barn is the shape. It is true it would be a novelty in most communities, but, like the round barns, is wasteful of material. It is out of the question to place joists, rafters, flooring, sheathing, roofing, &c., on barns of this shape without much waste of both materials and labor. Then, too, it is next to impossible to provide for satisfactory lighting or ventilation, both of which are essential features in every up to date barn.

The frame construction indicated in Fig. 2 is stronger, and at the same time gives more open space in the interior, this being secured by running the purlin posts up to the first purlin plate, instead of to the second, and supporting the second plate on the truss brace. This saves in the lengths of the purlin posts, but requires the same length of supports and longer sub-supports.

The form of construction indicated in Fig. 3 is, in my opinion, preferable to either of the others, if it is found that the vertical posts set in 10 feet will not in any way interfere with the purpose of the structure. In this case all the timbers are either shortened or placed in such shape that they may be spliced without in any way weakening the structure. Whichever form may be used by the correspondent, it is important in bents or arches of this size that the purlin posts should be placed on the inner edge with 2 × 6, which will add materially to the strength of the frame, and at the same time prevent any tendency to spring sideways either in the raising or from the pressure of the hay or grain within after the building is completed.